Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W  xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Similar Messages

  • A Power Supply Guide

    Here is the PSU Guide:
    PSU Knowledge I - Electrical Characteristics
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=120
    PSU Knowledge II - Environmental Specifications
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=121
    PSU Knowledge III - Physical Specifications
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=122
    PSU Knowledge IV - Input Voltage Requirements and Tolerances
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=123
    PSU Knowledge V - Output Specifications
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=124
    PSU Knowledge VI - General Quality Specifications
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=125
    PSU Knowledge VII - Certifications
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=126
    Website for PSU Certifications / Approvals
    http://www.coolermaster.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=127

    I like the Coolermaster Real 450w PSU.
    They comment on both PEAK and RMS current and the calculataions can be seen.
    No confusions at all.
    http://www.coolermaster.com/index.php?LT=english&Language_s=2&url_place=product&p_serial=RS-450-ACLY&other_title=%2BRS-450-ACLY%2BReal%20Power&PHPSESSID=d0361aa9439e046fe314d9e872f94519
    "Peak Output: The amount of current that the voltage specified can supply for a limited amount of time. Usually this is specified only for the +12 V signal; see here. Ideally, the manufacturer will specify not only the peak output current but the amount of time the supply is rated to sustain that peak. For example, the continuous maximum for +12 V may be 10 A, the peak level 14 A, and the peak level may be sustainable for 10 seconds"
    As I have been saying, if a PSU quotes PEAK current, you simply divied it be 1.41 to get the RMS value.
    14A peak / 1.41 = 10A RMS  
    1.41 is the square root of 2.
    Good post  

  • Guide to remove power supply

    Hi. I have a PowerMac G4 Sawtooth and it does nothing when you press the power button. I think it is the power supply that is the problem. I have a replacement power supply, but how do i get the old one out? Is there a guide somewhere? Or could someone make one that gives me the basics to get it out?

    Before you remove the power supply, you should check for "Trickle Power". Without this 5 Volt supply, your Mac has no hope of starting, and with it, your Power supply is likely working.
    With the Mac nominally off, but the AC power cord plugged into the wall socket, and the main 20-pin DC power connector still attached to the motherboard, measure the voltages by inserting a meter probe into the rear of each crimped wire connection. The black probe connects to any ground wire (typically black) on the same connector. More information and the pinout diagram in the article.
    58561- Power Macintosh G3 (Blue and White) and Power Mac G4: Power Supply Voltage Test

  • Guide for Selecting a Power Supply

    Mod may want to make this a STICKY.
    Here's a general guide on how to select a PSU for your HP desktop.  The majority of standard ATX powersupply (PSU) should fit inside an HP case.  The exception would be a slim line case or the esoteric Blackbird. 
    Look for an 80+ certification on the PSU to save electricity.  A PC will normally idle or run at low load 75% of the time.  Therefore, look for a PSU that's more efficient in the 50-90W range.  An 80+ 350W PSU reaches the 80% efficiency level at 70W output (20% of rated output).  The output must be greater than 140W to achieve the same level of efficiency from an equivalent 80+ 700W PSU.  So picking a PSU that is rated 25% higher than the maximum ACTUAL load of the rig will save you more $ on electricity. 
    A modern PSU is designed to achieve peak efficiency between 20 and 80% of the rated output.  Running a PSU above the 80% load level will result in excessive heat, noise, and premature failure.
    An Nvidia rig with GeForce GTX 280 (1024MB on board RAM) will draw about 350W max from the wall.  If we factor in the efficiency of a 80+ PSU, then the actual load on the PSU is only 280W (350 x 0.80).  To calculate the required PSU, multiply the actual load by 1.25 (25% margin).  In this case we only need a 350W PSU (280 x 1.25) to run this GPU.
    Let's apply what we know to a Radeon HD 4870 (512MB on board RAM) rig.  290W max from the wall.  Actual load is 290W x 0.80 or 230W.  Now apply the 25% margin rule and we arrive at a PSU requirement of 290W (230W x 1.25).  Even if we apply a 50% safety margin, the power requirement is still under 350W (230W x 1.50).
    There is no need to overspec the PSU by 50% unless you run your PC at full load 24/7.  Keep in mind that there is a huge variation in PSU quality and rating.  A cheap 500W PSU may not be able to deliver as much power as a quality 350W.  Antec Earthwatts/NeoPower/TruePower, Corsair, and Seasonic are quality units widely available at many US retailers.
    Many high-end PSUs will need additional power from the PSU in the form of one or two 6/8 pin GPU power plug.  You can purchase an adaptor to convert a 4-pin molex to 6-pin GPU power plug.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-radeon-power,2122-3.html
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    Found a review of the Corsair 400W (Seasonic-built power supply) that I've been recommending on this forum.  This ATX power supply should fit inside most HP case (minus Slimline).  It has ample power to drive a modern quad core plus Radeon 4870 or GTX280 video card. 
    At 100% load, we see a 2.5% drop in the +12VDC rail, which is still within spec and does not affect the performance of any component inside the PC.  +12VDC regulation at 82% load is a superb 0.5% with 45C case temperature.  Note that the power output and efficiency decrease with higher temperature. 
    Cheap power supplies are rated at 25C.  When these units are subjected to higher case temperature, the output can drop 10-20%.
    Again, we discover the sweet spot of a good PSU is 20-80%.  A good 400W PSU is more than adequate for many PC users.  This Corsair is only $30 after a $10 rebate.  That's a great price for a quality/quiet PSU that won't put a huge dent in your wallet.
    http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTYwOSw1LCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139008&Tpk=corsair%20400w
    Additional 20% off w/ promo code "Mar20", ends 3/31
    Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:40 AM
    Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:42 AM
    Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:45 AM

  • Noisy power supply when running of UPS?... follow up post.

    Ned/The hatter your input here would be most appreciated along with anyone else using a UPS with your mac pro. Please read on...
    Having just concluded a rather detailed any lengthy post over in the power mac g5 forum with regards to loud buzzing noise from the power supply running of battery backup.
    I recemmend reviewing the link below for the full and i think interesting read...
    Linked here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=665537&tstart=0
    To sum it up it concluded that my model of UPS (Belkin) produces a simulated sine wave. I am unsure of technicals here, but this then makes the power supply in powermac G5's make a nasty electrical noise as the unit works to sort it out. What is ideal is a pure sine wave i understand.
    The reason for my post was that i was concerned the noise was a sign of harm being done to my mac. No one has said either way yet that this noise is either just a nuisance and it something thats got to be lived or that its actually harming my machine.
    Anyhow it turns out that the RS series from APC also makes the G5 powermac make a noise. And i am aware that Ned along with some others use the APC RS series with there mac pro's. What i am looking to find out is... Do you have a noise from your power supplys when running on battery backup with your new shiney mac pro's?
    The APC smart ups series however does not make the powermac G5 make a noise this has been confirmed by several users. I guess this is because these models produce pure wave sine.
    As you can see this has all got very complicated and over my head.
    The reason for me coming into this forum and asking about noisy power supplys when using certain UPS is because shortly i will be switching to a Mac pro. And if the power supplys in these are different and dont make a noise when running under battery with certain APC Rs's and the new Dual form belkin units then i wont return my current belkin model in exchange for a APC smart ups. I will just live it for a short time whilst i own my G5 and just hope it wont do any damage if and when we have a power outage.
    Thank you to anyone that can guide or assist me with this dilemma. Cheers Pob

    Pobster,
    Switching power supplies (such as those used in computers) do not require a "pure" analog sine wave input; they are more than capable of running on PWM/stepped sine wave input. The noise from the power supply when running on power from a PWM output UPS does not indicate that damage is being done to your machine; it's a harmless side effect.
    Some equipment will be damaged if powered via PWM input; items with compressors (refrigerators, air conditioners) definitely fall into this category, as well as some medical equipment and telecom equipment.
    I live in an area with notoriously dirty power; a UPS is critical in my case (I'd argue that it is critical in any case, however). I've ran my equipment on UPSs for many years, and the price has dropped significantly. I've got one APC SmartUPS with pure sine wave output which was purchased for me by a client, but most of my equipment is running on UPS with PWM output. It's not uncommon for me to have 20-30 power events in a given day - most of them transient voltage drops or spikes; I've still got an old Sun Sparc 10 file server that's still chugging along.
    A couple of interesting articles for your perusal:
    http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20051009043816537
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
    A quick google will turn up lots more information on the topic. APC used to have a white paper on their site which talked about this very topic.
    Most manufacturers provide connected equipment insurance - tripp lite, for example, provides $250,000(US) coverage. I've never known anyone who actually needed to use this coverage - I certainly haven't .
    In brief: A UPS with PWM output will not harm your computer; switching power supplies are more than capable of handling this. If the noise bothers you, look for a UPS with "pure sine wave" output - you will pay more for this feature; it's an aesthetic choice in this case.

  • 1st gen. iMac G5 power supply failure

    Hi, all!
    My 20" iMac G5 here at work collapsed and died on me about a week ago. The computer just deactivated abruptly; I actually had thought that I had kicked the plug or stepped on the power bar by mistake. I restarted it, and it worked for twenty minutes before dying again. Now it's entirely unresponsive. Having read up on the matter here and in the Mac support pages, I'm quite sure the power supply has failed. I'm in the process of finding out whether the computer is still covered under Apple's Repair Extension Program. (http://www.apple.com/support/imac/repairextensionprogram/ - I know the iMac model is correct, my serial number matches the range, I'm just not sure if the computer is less than three years old.)
    Anyway, the important thing for me is the hard drive, not the machine itself. We're entirely Mac-based here at work, so there is no shortage of machines for me to work on (I've already replaced my old machine with a much newer Intel-based iMac), but I would very much like to retrieve my data from my old hard disk. I've downloaded the DIY guide for opening the 20" iMac G5 and removing the hard drive, but I need some advice on the best plan of action. Should I then open another, working G5, remove its hard drive, insert my old hard drive and transfer my files off to my new iMac through our company server? Or is there another way to approach it? Is the hard drive on my 20" first gen G5 compatible with newer mac models, or am I going to run into problems with connectors, physical disk size, etc.? Or, should I just leave well enough alone and leave the entire operation to a Mac Genius?
    This will be my first time opening an iMac. I believe that I can open the machines and remove-replace the hard drives without voiding any warranties, correct?
    Thanks so much in advance for your help and advice!
    Adam

    I am on the phone right now with a product specialist about my iMac G5 power supply issues. Kind of ***** because he has, in so many words, said that the Genius is the Alpha and Omega and can extend the 3 year coverage. For me that is great except that the Apple store is over an hour away. I don't understand why the dude on the phone can't pull the switch and make it happen as well.
    Factor in:
    Unplugging iMac G5 and all peripherals
    Loading it in the car
    Driving an hour
    Carrying it into the Mall (apple store)
    Waiting for my Genius appointment
    More than likely getting it fixed for free (from the sounds of things)
    Driving back after it is fixed
    Doing everything listed in reverse.
    Would it just be easier to pay the $108 for a new power supply, wait a few days, undo some screws, and BAM! it works again?
    Update. Off the phone now. The product specialist flexed his muscles, back handed the Genius to gain authority, and basically stated that they WILL DEFINITELY repair either the power supply or the logic board or both if needed. I have already had them replace the logic board once. BUT, I still have to load it up and take it to the Apple Store. Boo.

  • Help I think my power supply is going bad! Where can I buy parts?

    I am getting random reboots and it doesn't seem to be the OS... My first guess is the power supply but I can't seem to find one to buy... Does anyone know where I can buy one at?  Is there a good place for parts for the MEGA 180?
    Thanks
    Mobile Bob

    Quote from: Stu on 02-August-07, 06:19:52
    you need to post more information about the problem you're having, before we start pointing the finger at the PSU, which is the one part that is difficult to obtain now
    >> Getting help with random restarts and blue-screens <<
    Post more info on the hardware in your Mega PC, refer to >> Moan Guide <<
    Download Speedfan and use it to measure CPU temps both at idle and under load and post them here. >> How to use Speedfan <<
    Test your memory using >> Memtest86 <<
    The thing is that windows never leaves an error... I get nothing in the event viewer except windows was shutdown error no other errors are listed so I don't think it's windows... I ran a CPU Burn in test for over 24 hours and never had a problem so I don't think it's heat either... And the reboots are quite random I will go two weeks without one and then get them two and three times a day...  To me the power supply seems to be the easiest answer but since there hard to get I guess it's not so easy to check eh...
    I have done the fan mod (Turning it so it sucks in cool air) and I have a slot fan dumping tons of air out the back so I don't think it's a heat problem... I started to have the problem running Windows XP SP2 so I did a complete reload from scratch to Windows Vista (I know not completely supported but it works fine) and am still having the same problem...  I have a Haugpauge 150 pci card, Haugpauge USB2, A usbuirt pluged into usb and thats about it...  2 gigs of ram 2x1gig sticks from Crucial,  yes I have already run a memory check and it passed...
    Is there not anywhere to get a power supply?  Or is there another model that fits the mega 180 case?

  • T440s keyboard and external power supply

    The issue that I come across is if T440s starts up on battery, as soon as the external power supply is connected, the keyboard stops responding, as well as mouse. if I disconnect external power supply, both keyboard and mouse function as usual.
    If start up on external poewr supply, it seems to be OK.
    Any suggestions?

    Hello Hans -
    Taking a look a the PrecisionHD Camera User Guide on pg 9, the 2.5x camera does have a power supply connector just like the 4x and 12x cameras.  It does say the power supply connector is For future use, so it doesn't seem like it supports an external PSU at this time.

  • There are electric charges coming out from the laptop when I touch it. It is just happened when the mac is connected to the power supply.

    There are electric charges coming out from the laptop when I touch it. It is just happened when the mac is connected to the power supply.

    http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-57388858-263/ouch-my-mac-shocked-me/?tag=mn col;txt
    Best.

  • M7332 Power Supply-How can I tell if it works?

    I have a power book G3 Lombard, I believe. I have purchased a brand new power supply from ebay. But my computer won't start. The battery is dead too. It has been sitting idle for nearly a year.
    My question is- shouldn't I be able to test the output of the power supply with a voltmeter to prove that it works? I have purchased 3 different power supplies and they all produce no electricity at the outlet tip.

    ABoney,
    Welcome to the Discussions.
    You cannot safely measure the voltage of the plug which connects to the power port due to its design. The center post has three insulated parts with the tip being one and it does not carry power.
    Did the powerbook work the last time it was used (last year)?
    First, try resetting the power manager:
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449
    If unsuccessful and since the 'book has been stored for a year, I would recommend this procedure:
    Remove the power adapter, main battery, and optical drive; position the display vertically since the 'book will want to tilt backwards. Lift off the keyboard (place it face down on the palm rest...do not disconnect the ribbon cable), then disconnect the PRAM battery as shown in this photo; click to enlarge the top photo.
    http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/PowerBook-G3-Lombard/PRAM-Battery/31/3/Page-3/PR AM-Battery
    Without any reassembly, connect just the power adapter and try starting. If successful, press the power button until it shuts off (disconnect the power adapter if it will not shut off). Reconnect the PRAM battery and test startup again. If successful, shut down and reassemble the 'book; if it fails to start, disconnect the PRAM battery, then reassemble the 'book.
    The powerbook will run fine without the rechargeable internal backup battery a.k.a. PRAM battery and these can be replaced for about $20.
    The purpose of this procedure is two-fold: You may have a corrupted power manager that will not clear normally and/or the PRAM battery has an internal short that prevents startup.

  • Looking for Apple TV power supply - any ideas?

    Hi folks,
    My out of warranty Apple TV has an obvious power supply problem (it's totally dead, no power up whatsoever).
    There are a few websites that have tutorials on replacing the power supply (or hard drive, etc...).
    The problem is I can't find a place to purchase a replacement power supply.
    It's a Delta Electronics ADP-36BF, Apple part # 614-0395 (http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.com/igi/HGslJDZeqPnKlFVD.huge)
    Any ideas on where to find one?
    If I can't get it myself to replace it, I'll probably just wait for the Boxee Box to replace it.
    Thanks.

    I'm in the exact same boat -- I've looked everywhere and can't find anything. I've even called Delta Electronics about the part and they said they can only sell them to Apple. If you find anything out please let me know! Thanks.

  • Replacing power supply in G4

    This isn't totally on topic, but it's the closest I can find in the discussions.
    I run several macs on ethernet. I have an old G4 Power Mac, dual processor, 500mhz Model M5183, which I use to run a flatbed scanner. The scanner software can only use OS 9 which is why I've held on to this G4. Last weekend, it would not start up at all. I replaced the battery and reset the little button beside the battery, but when I plug it in again, still nothing.
    A kind friend gave me another G4 to use for parts. I'm thinking that perhaps the power supply is bad on my G4 and that I can swap out the power supply from the gifted G4 (it's the same model as my original). I've looked at the instructions on the Apple website (where the promised link to the instructional video doesn't work, BTW.)
    Can anyone advise me on this? I've contacted a Mac service provider, but the new power supply would cost more than the CPU is worth, plus the scanner is 10 years old, so it may not last much longer. Anything else to consider? I'll have an extra logic board, too, so if the power supply doesn't do it, perhaps that will do it.
    I'm not a techie person. I'm a freelance graphic designer, so excuse my ignorance if it's apparent.
    Thanks for your help. Sorry about the long post.

    The G4 I was given is semi-operable; I don't think it's hard drive is working. Hadn't thought about swapping hard drives. My original HD is 40Gb and the gifted G4 is a 20Gb. Would that make any difference?
    I'll try replacing the power supply and see how that goes because I think this second G4 is kind of beat up.
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