EOS T3i

Does Photoshop Elements 9 support Canon EOS Rebel T3i raw files?  I have Elements 8 and I receive a message '.cr2' files not supported.

PSE9 with ACR 6.4.1 supports the T3i.  Looking at the release history the last few years, a new version of PSE comes out about this time every year, so perhaps PSE10 should be out this month or next, so you can decide to buy PSE9, now, or wait a little and get PSE10, although the differences and advantages of PSE10 are unknown to us outside until it is released.

Similar Messages

  • Will my 70-300 Canon Zoom lens + a 2x multiplier function on a new EOS T3i

    Will  my 70-300 Canon Zoom lens + a Canon 2x multiplier function on a new EOS T3i?

    Basically.... no.
    As far as I know, Canon 2X Extenders (teleconverters) cannot even be fitted to any of the 70-300mm lenses. The Canon Extenders all have a protruding front element that prevents them from even being attached to quite a few lenses. They can be fitted to the 70-200mm zooms, as well as the prime lenses 135mm and longer.
    A third party 2X would physically fit onto the lens. But.... Most 70-300mm are f3.5-5.6 aperture lenses. With a 2X on them two stops of light are lost to the teleconverter, so the lens/TC combo becomes and effective 140-600mm  f7.1-11 lens. Your camera will stop autofocusing with smaller than f5.6 aperture lenses (only 1D-series and 5D Mk III can still focus at f8, even they would fail to focus at f11). Your could still manually focus, except the viewfinder will be quite dim to try to do so.
    And, frankly, I wouldn't expect much in terms of image quality. A strong (2X) teleconverter on a zoom lens is often not a great combo.
    My advice would be to save up for a longer focal length lens... Something I use a lot, which has good image quality and  focuses very well, even in combination with a Canon 1.4X teleconverter, is Canon EF 300mm f4 IS lens. There is also the Canon 400mm f5.6 lens, but it lacks IS (so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod). If you prefer a zoom there are the Canon 100-400mm IS and  Sigma 120-400mm OS or 150-500mm OS. I hear that Tamron is developing a new 150-600mm VC lens that's supposed to be competitively priced, but I don't know when that will be available or have any advance info on it's performance or image quality.
    Besides these options... get closer to your subjects. That's often going to give better results, anyway, since with longer focal lengths you'll be shooting from a greater distance, it's much harder to get a steady shot, plus there often can be various atmospheric effects that reduce image quality too.
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

  • I have the Canon Rebel EOS T3i and was wondering what is the best setting to take firework pictures.

    How can I get great pics of fireworks with my Canon EOS T3i??

    For this kind of photography, it is essential to have no movement of the camera at all.  Here are the settings that have worked for me:
    1. Tripod - this is an absolute must for any kind of night photography, including fireworks.
    2. Cable release - since you can move the camera just by pressing the shutter release, you have to activate the shutter without touching the camera.  You can do this either with a cable release or with an infrared trigger.  Be sure to get the correct cable or remote for your camera since they differ from one model to another.
    3. Use manual mode and activate Live View whenever possible.  The flipping of the mirror within the camera can also generate movement, so Live View is very helpful.
    4. Use an aperture of f/8-f/11.
    5. Use ISO 100.
    6. Focus at infinity - you can manually zoom during the exposure for an interesting effect.
    7. 4 second exposure to start and adjust up or down based on your results.
    8. You will likely need a wide focal length such as 35mm to start, and then adjust as necessary if you have a zoom lens.
    9. Other possible adjustments - set the White Balance to 5300K; set the exposure compensation to -1.0 EV. This is a full 1-stop underexposure to keep the firework highlights from burning out.
    I haven't posted photos to this forum before, but if this works, here's an example of what I mean.  This was shot last summer with a Canon 60D, 4 second exposure at f/11, ISO 100, 32mm.

  • Why is the 2-sec timer option unavailable on my Canon Camera eos t3i-eos600d

    Why is the 2-sec timer option unavailable for the Automatic shoot settings on my Canon Camera eos t3i-eos600? It is available on the manual settings.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Auto mode is a very limited mode. Try using Program until you learn how the other modes give you more control.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Can I wirelessly use a 430 EX II as a slave with the built in flash of the EOS T3i?

    I have a Rebel EOS T3i.  According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can fire a remote speedlite wirelessly from the camera.  I get an error message that the speedlite can't be found even though I have set up my speedlite 430 EX II according to its manual directions, pp25 ff.  Thanks for your help
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can remotely trigger the speedlite.
    It's a bit tricky and can be confusing.
    First... set the 430EX II in the right mode.  Press-and-HOLD the "Zoom" button for about 2 seconds or so.  This activates a menu that lets you put the flash in either a single-fash mode vs. remote "slave" mode.  Use half-circle buttons to toggle it to read "slave".  Press the "set" button (in the middle of those half-circle shape buttons.)  I don't happen to have my 430EX II handy, but it should default to Slave "A" and Channel "1".  
    Now for the camera.
    On your camera menu, the left-most tab (which we'll call "Red Camera #1" to distinguish it from other tabs) has the "Flash Control" as the last option on that screen.  Incidentally for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is labeled "Flash Control".  For cameras that do NOT have built-in pop-up flash, that same menu is called "External speedlite control".
    On that sub-menu (Flash Control), make sure "Flash Firing" (the top option) is set to "Enable" or  "CustWireless" -- it must NOT be set to "disable" or nothing will work.
    You will see a menu options for "External Flash func. setting" (and also "External flash C.Fn setting".)  IGNORE THESE!  These are ONLY for flashes which are in the camera hot-shoe and do NOT control wireless remote flashes.  This is likely where you were getting confused.
    Next go to "Built-in flash func. settings" where, ironically, you get to control how your camera communicates with your REMOTE flash (yes, I realize that's not the most intuitive place to put it.)  It turns out that it's your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicate with any REMOTE slave flashes.  The optical wireless actually uses visible light (a lot of people presume it's an infrared communication -- myself included -- I ultimately learned that was incorrect and it is actually the visible light of the flash itself.  It sends out communication to the remote by rapidly pulsing codes to tell the remote flash what to do.  All this happens before the image is exposed and you'd swear the flash only blinked once... but it turns out it's actually quite busy pulsing away to communicate.)
    In the "Built-in flash func. settings" menu there are a number of things you need to set. 
    If you set the Built-in flash mode to "EasyWireless" it will gray out many other settings... basically the camera will automatically decide what it wants to do.  I think the only setting not gray is the channel number (which needs to match the channel number on your flash.  The purpose of channel numbers is to allow you to shoot at events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and not have conflicts where they're triggering your flashes and vice versa.
    If you set the Built-in flash mode to "CustWireless" it allows you to set many other options.  CustWireless offers the most control.  It is ultimately probably the mode you'll use the most once you get used to remote speedlites.
    In CustWireless mode, the "Wireless Func." menu option becomes available.  This option lets you decide if you want (I'm taking these out of order for simplicity of explaining):
    a)  both internal and external speedlites to fire as one group (external flash icon,  a PLUS sign (+) and the on-camera icon)
    b)  both internal and external speedlites to fire but allowing you to control the power RATIO (external flash icon, a COLON symbol ( and the on-camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.)
    c)  only external speedlites (only the external flash icon is on that option - no on-camera icon.)
    I want to mention something about that external-only option because it confuses most people at first.  The camera communicates with the slave via the on-camera flash.  The on-camera flash pulses rapidly to send instructions to the remote flash units.  This means that in order to use slave-flashes, the on-camera flash must be raised (in the popped-up position).  If you ask for external flash only (no on-camera) the on-camera flash will only pulse instructions BEFORE the camera shutter opens to take the exposure.  When I first started learning about external speedlites, I saw the on-camera flash fire and thought my settings were being ignored.  Not to worry... when you check your images you will see that there was no light provided by the on-camera flash DURING the exposure... all that flashing happens before the shutter opens.   Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes only fired once... but in reality they actually do a lot of "talking" before taking the picture but this happens incredibly fast.
    And one last comment... since the camera communicates via the optical (visible light) flash to talk to the remotes, it is important the the lower-body of your 430EX II can "see" the flash on the camera.  In small rooms it doesn't really matter where the lower-body is pointed... it'll notice the pulses of light from the on-camera flash.  But in large rooms or outdoors the lower-body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) wont get any reflection from walls, etc.  In these situations, just rotate the lower body of the 430EX II so that it is facing the on-camera flash.  You can then swivel the head of the 430EX II to point wherever you need it.  The 430EX II will fire even in full daylight as long as it can "see" that on-camera flash.
    Here's a video that may help you:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Need the right flash unit for Canon Rebel EOS T3i to use as separate fill light.

    Im looking to have a separate flash unit for my Rebel T3i purchased in 2012.    My old Canon speedlight 300EZ was for my old 35mm. film Canon EOS 650 and is somewhat limited.   I have a Phottix Strato II Multi Transmitter and Receiver set but I can't get it to work with the old 300 EZ speedlight.
    Thanks,
    Zeida Cecilia-Mendez

    A Canon 430ex would be a good flash for not a lot of money. So would a Phottix Mitros.
    The best thing would be to have 2 or 3 flashes so you can shoot with a more 3-d professional look, though you'd need an extra receiver or else you can simply buy a pair of Phottix Mitros Plus flashes, which have a transmitter and receiver built in. I have 3 of the Mitros + units and I love them.
    Scott
    Canon 6D, Canon T3i, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; EF 85mm f/1.8; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites
    Why do so many people say "fer-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

  • Raw files from my EOS T3i. My computer has Windows 7 - 64 bit.

    I want to use Raw files from my EOS Rebel T3i. When I went to down load the Canon driver to convert this it turns out there is no driver for my computer's operaing syste. I have a pretty normal computer with Windows 7- 64bit. They only support 33 bit processing. There seems to be no support for Windows 8. Now what? Is there an outside sonversion driver I should use instead? Will there be support for Windows 8 in the near future?
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Microsoft has released a W7 RAW codec for x32 and x64 systems:
    http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=26829
    John Hoffman
    Conway, NH
    1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

  • Canon EOS t3i File Conversion Issue

    Hello all,
    I recently got a Canon Rebel t3i, and sat down to edit some of the material I shot in FCP 7.
    After importing the files off of my SD cards directly into FCP and then organizining, making subclips, renaming etc., I was unhappy to find that after dragging clips into the timeline they did not playback correctly, dropping frames and generally screwing up.
    Looking it up after the fact I found that apparently the h.264 MOVs that the t3i makes are no good in Final Cut without first converting to something like Apple ProRes. Bummer.
    My question: will I need to go back and convert my files pre-FCP, as in the raw files straight off the SD card (using Compressor or the Canon plugin or whatever), or can I somehow not lose the work I have already done in naming and organizing clips in my FCP project?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks!

    You didn't even copy them off the card first?  Well, that's ANOTHER bottleneck...trying to edit directly from the card.
    OK, you can use the MEDIA MANAGER and the RECOMPRESS option to convert all the footage and keep the organization you have.  But in the future, you need to download the Canon EOS log and transfer plugin to use this workflow:  http://library.creativecow.net/ross_shane/tapeless-workflow_fcp-7/1
    or, use MPEG STREAMCLIP or Magic Bullet Grinder to convert the footage to ProREs before you edit.

  • I am looking for a thorough tutorial which discusses night shooting with the EOS T3i.

    Does anybody know of such a beast.  A video tutorial would be ideal.  The night-portrait setting is just not doing it for me, and I plan to make a career out of night-shots.
    Any help?
    Thanks.
    Thomas Kemper
    PS I am new to the forum.  I am glad to be here!

    In addition, you could actually go out and shoot!  Shoot a lot, since we don't have film as an expense, there is no reason not to.  Try things different things.  Keep track and watch what you are doing as doing is the best teacher.  
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

  • EOS T3i when you push the button it clicks like it took a photo, but it does not

    No matter which setting you have it on it will not take photos unless you hold down the button and make it click several times like you are doing action shots.

    Yes, Mirror Lockup is one possibility. Also, if you have Long Exposure Noise Reduction enabled and are taking shots of 1 second or longer, the camera has to take two shots. First, it takes a "regular" shot, then a second,"blank" shot is made with the shutter closed. This second shot is then used to identify noise, which is subtracted from the first image. The second shot is the same length of time as the first one... so if you were making a 4 second exposure, all together it will take 8 seconds to make both shots when LENR is enabled. If you cancel the second shot before it completes (by turing off the camera or removing the battery), neither image is saved... so it seem like no shot was taken. Another setup that makes you press the shutter release repeatedly is bracketing.... There's exposure bracketing and white balance bracketing. Exposure bracketing allows you to set a range of exposures which will be taken, probably 3 total on your camera, and I think you have to press the shutter release three times for them all to be taken. Sometimes the shutter release button gets "gummed up" with finger oils, dust and grime, with use and over time. That can cause delays and problems when trying to take a shot. There are several places online that show how to clean it yourself (Google it... but be careful if you decide to try to do it), or you can send to Canon (they'll replace the button entirely), or have an independent repair shop clean it. ***********
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER 

  • Best SD card for EOS T3i

    I'm using a SanDisk SDHC  I  32GB class 10 card and I'm getting overrun errors while recording HD videos.  Any suggestion on card speed or size?

    Hi Angerbaj,
    From your description, it sounds like the card you have should be up to the task, but isn't writing video quickly enough.
    I recommend that you format your memory card in the camera.  Please do not format your memory card until you've saved your  images and movies to your computer!
    Since you've encountered error messages, I recommend using a low-level format.
    If this fails to resolve the issue, I recommend choosing a different model/ brand memory card.
    Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

  • Why are all videos taken on my Cannon Rebel EOS T31 all of a sudden blurry?

    I have a Cannon Rebel EOS T3i. I have had it for about 3 months. Everything was okay, but for the last month all the video I have tried to take come out blurry. It wasn't that way before. Does anyone have an idea of what I might have done, or why all the videos are blurry?  Thanks for any help you can give.

    Iriscat,
    Autofocus on DSLR's for film has been mostly a pipe dream until recently. The feature is there and it can work in some instances where very little movement is occurring but basically, the technologies of autofocus and DSLR video, for whatever reason, are newer in development than your camera (and mine) This simply means that you need to learn to manual focus. This is not too bad for a film maker, because he/she wants to get a great and very specific focus generally (in one situation - near, in another - far.) But if you're filming your granddaughter's birthday party or a football game, you're going to find it quite challenging. The technology is not really for that. Honestly, your salesperson should have informed you of this. Better autofocus is gotten out of camcorders. They bring everything into focus instead, and the depth of field is what a filmmaker would consider boring.
    I hope this helps. You can get your $$ out of a DSLR on ebay if you desire to move on.

  • Canon EOS T4i compatibility check

    Hello,
    This table :http://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom/kb/tethered-camera-support-lightroom-4.html  shows the Canon EOS T3i and T5i as compatible with Lightroom. However the T4i, which is almost identical to the T5i, is not listed. Is this correct or a typo? If correct, does anyone know why?
    Thanks.
    Bret

    It does appear to be an oversight.  It likely already works, but official testing may have been overlooked.  I've flagged it up for the team to check, but you can go ahead and give it a shot in the meantime.

  • How do I choose my first Canon DSLR camera?

     I've had a Sony for 4 years, but owning a Canon is my dream. I've grown as a photographer, winning some contests and doing small family/group shoots. I still need to learn about manual shooting. It's seems like there are so many variations. Then I hear it's not best to buy the kit. I've been looking at the EOS T3i. Can anyone advise me on this?

    Hi,
    The standard Canon-assembled "kits" are fine....
    Those are the ones where Canon themself has pre-packaged camera and lens(es) together.
    With the T3i you'll most commonly find it bundled with the EF-S 18-55mm IS (or IS/STM) lens. You also likely willl find it with both the 18-55mm and the EF-S 55-250 IS (now also sometimes in STM version). An alternative you will somtimes find is the camera with the EF-S 18-135mm IS (also somtimes in STM version), though this "kit" lens is more often bundled with the 60D or 70D, than the Rebel series.
    You have to watch out for retailer bundles, where they substitute lower quality items and add a bunch of inexpensive stuff such as a flimsy tripod, an off-brand memory card, some poor quality filters, etc. You will see these online occasionally, from some less than reputible "dealers". Often the prices sound too good to be true, because they are. Sometimes they use bait n switch tactics, telling you things such as the kit doesn't include a battery charger, but they have one available at a steeply inflated price, or that the camera is a special version that has the menu only in some obscure language and that's why it's so much cheaper.
    So long as you stick with the more reputible online dealers such as B&H Photo, Adorama, etc. you will generally be fine. Amazon is generally good, too. Many people find good deals at Best Buy, as well. There are many good dealers to choose among... no need to go to some of the shadier ones. A basic rule of thumb... if you find prices that are significantly less than B&H or Adorama, be suspicious. Those are two of the highest volume stores in the U.S., so other dealers are unlikely to be able to beat their prices by very much. If the deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is!
    Really all the current Canon DSLRs are quite capable of taking great photographs. There are differences in some of the features, model to model. One of the "factory" kits may be a convenient starting point and can be good, or if you have a bit more to spend you might want to choose a camera model that leaves enough in your budget to be able to upgrade lenses or add other accessories you feel you need.... In most cases, lenses will ultimately make more difference in your photos than the camera they are used upon.
    For example, instead of the EF-S 18-55mm "kit" lens, you might want to consider the wider and longer EF-S 15-85mm IS USM lens as a very versatile choice. Or, if you like to shoot in lower light situations, you may prefer the EF-S 17-55mm f2.8 IS USM lens. Instead of the EF-S 55-250mm "kit" lens, you might prefer the EF 70-200mm f4L IS USM or EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS USM.... These are professional grade, workhorse lenses that cost a lot more than the kit lenses, but provide a number of benefits: faster and more accurate autofocus, more effecive image stabilization, higher build quality and better sealing against dust and moisture, and more. Image quality will be better, too.... though the "kit" lenses, used right, are pretty darned capable.  
    You also might already have some more specialized lenses in mind.... Such as a fast, short telephoto like the EF 50/1.4 or EF 85/1.8 if you plan to shoot a lot of portraits. Or perhaps a macro lens such as the EF-S 60/2.8 USM or EF 100/2.8 USM or 100/2.8L USM IS, if macro photography is something you want to do a lot. Or you might enjoy photographing scenery and want a wide angle lens such as the EF-S 10-22mm USM.
    I wish people would spend more time choosing their lenses than their cameras, since the lenses will actually make a bigger difference. And senses chosen well might actually outlast your camera.... I switched to the Canon system in 2001, buying two film cameras and four lenses at the time (I had a really good idea what I needed because I'd already been shooting with a variety of other systems for 20+ years). I still have and use three of those four lenses, and have added a number of others as needs and opportunity arose in the years since.
    Meanwhile I've switched from film to digital cameras, and used four different generations of DSLRs extensively (more generations than that if I count short duration use of loaners or rental cameras). Now the development of digital technology has slowed a bit, so there might be less need to upgrade as frequently... But still I expect cameras will come and go... While lenses - bought right - are more of a long term investment.  
    Think of what you are buying as a "system".... camera, lens(es), and accessories. In addition to the camera and lens(es), you'll need memory cards, possibly spare batteries, lens hoods, maybe some useful filters, an accessory flash, perhaps a tripod, a convenient bag to carry it all around in... Well, you get the idea. You also might need software, a computer that's up to the task or image editing, extra hard drive storage and backup space, etc.
    You don't have to get everything right away, but may want to lay out a plan, prioritize what you have to get now and what you'd like to add later based upon your needs.  Don't worry if your plans might change over time (they will!)... just lay out a plan now as a starting point.
    Have fun shopping!
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

  • Delete Only CR2 Files

    Hello All,
    I have a EOS T3i that I purchased about three months ago. I have the camera set to capture .jpg and .cr2 files with each shot. I like the ability to edit the .cr2 files and then convert to .jpg without the quality loss induced by directly editing the .jpg files and recompressing.
    My question is, is there a way to delete only the .cr2 files from the camera itself? I know that using a card reader to directly modify the files on the SD card can be dangerous, but is it any less dangerous to plug the camera in via USB and delete files individually through Windows? I would like to keep only the .jpg files on the camera to save space while maintaining the ability to "show off" my previously taken images via HDMI when I'm not at home to access my PC.
    Thanks!
    Adam 

    I'd download all the files to a computer, clear the card, pick the ones I liked & wanted to keep on my card & use trial & error to see just what quality of file was needed for a good image on a TV screen. Once I knew that I'd downsize all the files I wanted on the card to that resolution & then transfer them back to the card. This will give you the best result & keep more of the card cleared for the next batch of photos you'll shoot. I'd use a card reader for all of this & I don't see any problems with deleting or modifying during the download or when re installing them later. Card readers simplify things.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

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