External hard drive FW800 diagnostics

I've got a Lacie d2 Big Disk Extreme 500gb external hard drive hooked up to my Power Mac g5 dual 2.7. I've erased the contents and reinitialized it back to zero. My question is: does anyone know of a good diagnostic application, besides Disk Utility, Disk Warrior, TechTools and Apple Hardware test, that I can use to run the drive through a series of diagnostic tests. I guess I need something along the lines of tech tools(I'll never use another Micromat product again after it made my internal HD go down) that can check the disk speed and other specs. The drive had crapped out before and I used Disk Warrior to recover files before I erased and reinitialized and everything appears to be OK but there I want a program that will run it through a series of tests to be sure because my warranty is about to run out.
Thanks
g5 dual 2.7   Mac OS X (10.4.4)   4.5 GB RAM, ATI Radeon 9650

I've lost over 5 of these drives over the last 2 years. One of them with no warning whatsoever. They are really, really scarey. Everyone I know who had used them has eventually thrown them in the trash.
-s

Similar Messages

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    Can a computer crash disable (break) an external hard drive (FW800)?
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    Can a computer crash disable (break) an external hard drive (FW800)?
    No, but it could damage files or the directory structure, so the drive wouldn't mount. Disk Utility should be able to fix it by erasing or partitioning, but you would lose the data on the drive.
    My mac pro started to see programs crash. First one, that wouldn't 'force quit', then a minute later a second. This had happened before last year, so i started quitting apps to restart. At the end, half of them i succeeded to quit and about 4 wouldn't quit. The finder was frozen/crashed, no dock or apple menu or any menu for that matter. The mouse moved. i could shortcut 'force quit' and 'return' on default OKs.
    You may have bad RAM, or other hardware problems. Have you run the extended Apple Hardware Tests. Boot from the install DVD while pressing "D". Try removing any non-Apple RAM modules.
    I tested the pins on the power adapter with a voltmeter, according to the schematic on the adapter itself and i got 5.5 V on the one side and 13 odd V on the other. Apparently what's supposed to be coming out. (5 V and 12 V)
    Some power supplies will put out more than the rated voltage if there is nothing attached, but 5.5 V and 13 V are not high enough to cause damage, anyway.
    Can a powerbutton shutdown shoot electricity through the FireWIre bus?
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  • Which one external hard drive is better for my G5's FW800 port?

    Hi,
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    Hi-
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    Check out the Mackie troubleshooting guide for one:
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  • External Hard Drive Strategy

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  • External Hard Drives... advice needed

    Not sure this is the correct forum category to be posting in... so apologies to admin et all if it’s in the wrong place.
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  • Disk utility can't repair disk (1 partition) on external hard drive

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  • External Hard Drive not recognized.

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    I had the exact same problem! I had to force shut down my iMac (24in, Mid 2007) due to a system freeze. After restarting, everything was working fine, except for my external 1GB G-Drive, which was connected through FW800 port.
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  • I/o device error when trying to use windows 7 backup to an external hard drive

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    here.
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  • My external hard drive will no longer connect to my macpro......any ideas on how to solve this problem??

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  • How to move huge HD video files between external hard drives and defrag ext drive?

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    Here is a very good writeup on de-fragging in the OS environment that I borrowed
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    Again, this doesn't matter much when the drive is half empty or better, but it does when it gets fullish, and it does especially when it gets fullish if you are regularly dealing with large files , like video or serious audio stuff.
    If you look through this discussion board you will see quite a few complaints from people who find that their drive gets "slow". Often you will see that say that "still have 10 or 20 gigs free" or the like. On modern large drives by this stage they are usually in fact down to the point where the internal defragmentation routines can no longer operate , where their drives are working like navvies to keep up with finding space for any larger files, together with room for "scratch files", virtual memory, directories etc etc etc. Such users are operating in a zone where they put a lot more stress on their drives as a result, often start complaining of increased "heat", etc etc. Most obviously, though, the computer slows down to a speed not much better than that of molasses. Eventually the directories and other related files may collapse altogether and they find themselves with a next to unrecoverable disk problems.
    By this time, of course, defragging itself has already become just about impossible. The amount of work required to shift the data into contiguous blocks is immense, puts additional stress on the drive, takes forever, etc etc. The extent of fragmentation of free space at this stage can be simply staggering, and any large files you subsequently write are likely to be divided into many , many tens of thousands of fragments scattered across the drive. Not only this, but things like the "extents files", which record where all the bits are located, will begin to grow astronomically as a result, putting even more pressure on your already stressed drive, and increasing the risk of major failures.
    Ultimately this adds up to a situation where you can identify maybe three "phases" of mac life when it comes to the need for defragmentation.
    In the "first phase" (with your drive less than half full), it doesn't matter much at all - probably not enough to even make it worth doing.
    In the "second phase" (between , say 50% free space and 20% free space remaining) it becomes progressively more useful, but , depending on the use you put your computer to you won't see much difference at the higher levels of free space unless you are serious video buff who needs to keep their drives operating as efficiently and fast as possible - chances are they will be using fast external drives over FW800 or eSata to compliment their internal HD anyway.
    At the lower end though (when boot drives get down around the 20% mark on , say, a 250 or 500 Gig drive) I certainly begin to see an impact on performance and stability when working with large image files, mapping software, and the like, especially those which rely on the use of their own "scratch" files, and especially in situations where I am using multiple applications simultaneously, if I haven't defragmented the drive for a while. For me, defragmenting (I use iDefrag too - it is the only third party app I trust for this after seeing people with problems using TechToolPro and Drive Genius for such things) gives a substantial performance boost in this sort of situation and improves operational stability. I usually try to get in first these days and defrag more regularly (about once a month) when the drive is down to 30% free space or lower.
    Between 20% and 10% free space is a bit of a "doubtful region". Most people will still be able to defrag successfully in this sort of area, though the time taken and the risks associated increase as the free space declines. My own advice to people in this sort of area is that they start choosing their new , bigger HD, because they obviously are going to need one very soon, and try to "clear the decks" so that they maintain that 20% free buffer until they do. Defragging regularly (perhaps even once a fortnight) will actually benefit them substantially during this "phase", but maybe doing so will lull them into a false sense of security and keep them from seriously recognising that they need to be moving to a bigger HD!
    Once they are down to that last ten per cent of free space, though, they are treading on glass. Free space fragmentation at least will already be a serious issue on their computers but if they try to defrag with a utility without first making substantially more space available then they may find it runs into problems or is so slow that they give up half way through and do the damage themselves, especially if they are using one of the less "forgiving" utilities!
    In this case I think the best way to proceed is to clone the internal drive to a larger external with SuperDuper, replace the internal drive with a larger one and then clone back to it. No-one down to the last ten percent of their drive really has enough room to move. Defragging it will certainly speed it up, and may even save them from major problems briefly, but we all know that before too long they are going to be in the same situation again. Better to deal with the matter properly and replace the drive with something more akin to their real needs once this point is reached. Heck, big HDs are as cheap as chips these days! It is mad to struggle on with sluggish performance, instability, and the possible risk of losing the lot, in such a situation.

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