Filtering voltage spikes

Hi There
I am recording a signal through my USB9221 DAQ. it is a relatively noisy enviroment but my main problem is that im sitting above massive contactors which switch every so often, and when they do the line picks up the spikes. i dont think it is possible to modify anything physically to shield itself from the noise so is there any way to do it in labview?
i have tried a few different VI low pass filters but as i am new to LV its really difficult to find the right filter.
the best filter i found was the express filter. it filters most of the smaller noise but does very little to the spikes
the signal obtained is a speed signal and the frequency is very low or sometimes DC.
Hope you can help
Regards

I would try median filter and downsampling. If you need a data rate equal to 200Hz you must increase the sample rate times downsampling rate
Besides which, my opinion is that Express VIs Carthage must be destroyed deleted
(Sorry no Labview "brag list" so far)
Attachments:
example.vi ‏54 KB

Similar Messages

Using DAQ-assist to input a waveform; need help building a counter to count voltage "spikes"

Hey all! I'm pretty new to labView and even newer to this forum, but its nice to meet you all...I hope that perhaps someone can help me with my problem.
Allow me to begin by detailing the specifications of the problem. I am an undergraduate student, and have a job doing research in a MEMS (micro/nanotech) lab. The graduate student I am making this program for is working on biomedical applications; eventually, the program will be connected to a microdevice that has a tiny channel in it, cut through a wee little capacitor, which blood will run through. As red blood cells pass this capacitor, the voltage will spike; meaning that for each voltage spike, we can (and are trying to) count the number of red blood cells.
However, I am still in the early developement of the program, so this above specific info is not that important. Basically, I am using a function generator to input a waveform to the DAQ assistant of, say 500 mV. I am trying to write a program that increments a counter every time I turn the voltage above say 550 mV (peak-to-peak), counting the number of simulated "spikes." I have tried quite a lot to write a working program, and although I have not gotten it to work yet, I will post a screenshot of my most recent attempt HERE:
I thank you in advance for any helpful tips, advice, or straight up assistance you may be able to give me. Please ask me any clarifying questions about the program I wrote or the application, or anything. Happy Friday!

Hey guys, it's been a while! A lot of stuff has been happening in my life and I have had virtually no time to work on my LabView project.
I did create a LabView program based off IanW's reccomendation. I am unsure of what exactly is going wrong, but when I run it, only a simple "snapshot" of a waveform from the DAQ shows up in the graph. Even when I put the DAQ assist in a seperate while loop, the same thing happens. I am including a screenshot of the project in case I am messing something entirely different up. If you happen to read this, I really appreciate your help and thank you Ian!
I am also having a random issue with the filter signal VI. So that background signals in the actual experiment do not read as "spikes" I have been instructed to include a high-pass filter in the VI. However, everytime I use the high pass filter VI, it botches my signal and turns it into a bunch of noise! I, nor my graduate mentor (who isn't too well-versed in LabView) have any idea why this is - we've tried using different types of filters to no avail.
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Attachments:
count spikes pic.png ‏29 KB

Periodic voltage spikes caused by motor

Hi y'all,
This issue is not directly related to an NI control issue, but I was hoping someone may have had the same issue as me and knew where to start.
I have a brushless rotary motor from Harmonic Drive Systems (Model: FHA-25C-50-US250-A) connected to a torque sensor which is being read through an NI DAQ. The motor controller is also given a simple position command from the NI analog output.
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Attachments:
Torque Noise from Motor.png ‏15 KB

The first question is what is on the other end of the motor? Could your load be causing the spikes. If not, then I bet this has to do with tuning of the position loop. Change the gains in the controller and see what happens.

External monitor damage due to Macbook Pro voltage spike?

I had my Macbook Pro connected to a Panasonic 62" Panasonic LCD TV and the Panasonic suddenly went black and has not come back. I've driven the Panasonic many times with the same Macbook Pro before and there were no problems. My friend says my Macbook Pro must have had a voltage spike that blew out the Panasonic. Is this possible? And if so how do I get it checked out?
Also, there is a smaller external LCD monitor that I've driven with my Macbook Pro that projected fine. But when connected the trackpad on my Macbook Pro became erratic/unresponsive. The same friend who's TV I may have nuked says this problem is also due to my Macbook Pro having voltage spikes...
Anybody know what may be going on here?

I think your friend is trying to get you to buy him a new TV. The TV going out and the computer being connected to it were likely coincidental. If Macbook Pros were destroying external monitors as your friend suggests then there would be more reports and outraged customers. Yours is the first post I've seen suggesting that a TV was destroyed because of a Macbook Pro.

Help Counting high frequency voltage spikes

Equipment: NI USB-6229 (250 kS/sec Analog In., 16 bit DAC, 32 bit Counters and internal clocks <= 80 Mhz)
LabView 14
Problem:
I have an experimental application where I need to count voltage spikes (integer #) caused by electrons hitting a sensor. These spikes can be as frequent as 500,000 Counts/sec. The spikes are not going to be the same voltage everytime, but they will be visible above the noise so I need to allow the user to select a Threshold Voltage that triggers a real count rather than noise spikes.
Attempts:
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I have a program that uses the Count Edges channel and it is accurate within 3% of the expected # of counts. I was just testing it with a function generator and the program doesn't count unless the signal's voltage is above 2-3 V which won't work for my application. I will post what I have. Does anybody know of a way to trigger off only at selected Voltage levels using counters, or know of a way to filter through the noise to get real spikes?
Thanks!
Solved!
Go to Solution.
Attachments:
ElectronCountsTest.vi ‏29 KB

Thanks for the reply johnsold. I didn't think to use a comparator but that is good to know that I have that option. I was and still am hoping for some kind of trick to do this programmatically. One other idea that I was playing with is offsetting two or three different Reads on the same signal to read the signal at different times. If this is a possibility, it may be able to double or triple my sample rate to 500k or 750kS / sec. Anyone else have any ideas on this solution?

PXI-6704 AO Voltage Spike during Power Down

Current Setup: PXI 6704 connected to SCB68A. On one of the analog outputs, I have a motor (powered via 24 VDC and controlled by 0-5V via PXI 6704).
During power up (powering up the PXI chassis), 0 volts are shown from the 0-5 V ouput. When I shutdown (i.e. turn off 24 VDC power supply and PXI Chassis, a 3.64 Volt spike develops at the 0-5V output and the motor spins then shuts down as the powersupply is also shut off during this time.
I tried leaving the AO ground open and also grounded to the 24 VDC common. Both result in the same issue.
Any ideas on how to fix this?
Thanks for the help.

The chassis is still powered on when the voltage spike develops. This spike occurs when the power supply (24 VDC) is turned off/ disconnected prior to turning off the chassis.
As a current fix, I connected the 0-5 AO from the 6704 to a relay and I keep the relay in the "open state" during power off. Even if the spike develops, no connection to the motor is made.

I am getting a voltage spike on starting and stopping a daqmx task

Hello,
I am having a problem with a PXI-4461 DSA board that I can't explain. When starting or stopping an analog output task, I am getting a voltage spike before the generation starts and after it stops. We have put a speaker on the output, and the spike sounds like a "pop" when that happens. However, the pop goes away when the card is also acquiring an analog input in the card. This is a repeatable event, and very strange. We have used the two examples "ContAcqGraph Voltage" for the analog input and the "Retriggering_Analog_Output_Waveform_Generation" to generate this phenomena.
Has anyone ever seen this before? Is our card the culprit?
Thanks,
Rob

Hey Rob,
I found out some information that might be helpful to you. There was a problem identified with that particular SVT example awhile ago where spikes would happen due to a Device Reset during the generation. This device reset was performed by default in the example if there was an error with the AO generation. Since your code was based off of this example, I believe that there's a Device Reset happening due to some error. If you could, please go through your application and ensure proper error chaining so that any errors generated are seen by the user. You can also go through and probe the error clusters coming out of the VIs in order to get a quick picture of what might be happening.
The specific VI in question is "SVT Close Swept Sine (DAQmx).vi". You can set a breakpoint before the "DAQmx Reset Device.vi" on the block diagram and verify that this is happening(see attachment screenshot). Let me know what you find out.
Good luck
Gavin Goodrich
National Instruments
Attachments:
svt_close_swept_sine.jpg ‏35 KB

IOS URL filtering - CPU spike

Hi All,
whenever I setup URL filtering in 1841 router with policy-map type http and zone-pair command, I experience 100% CPU spike. is there any workaround?
thanks for any suggestion
Alex

Deep packet inspection for URL filtering is pretty much CPU intensive, I am afraid that without HW upgrade, there is nothing you can do about that.
Do you monitor CPU utilization with correlation to traffic load on device?
Best Regards
Please rate all helpful posts and close solved questions

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I wanna thank you guys for helping me with my various issues this past week. Making sure my new PC is running smoothly is of utmost importance to me, so please excuse me if I seem to be posting a lot lately
I have Core Center running in the background all the time and when it pops up to inform me of an issue, it's usually highlighted the 3.3V value when, I'm assuming, it's too high (or higher than whatever value it has set as the warning limit). It's shown it as 3.78v up to 3.89v sometimes. Is this bad? I haven't adjusted any voltage settings in BIOS or in Core Center because I have no idea how changes to that effect performance. Please let me know if i should be concerned or if I should adjust my voltage settings in some certain way. System specs in the sig.
Thanks,
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ok, weird....
Bios shows readings for these
Vcore
+5v
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BUT... no reading on the 3.3v... The thing I noticed was the reading for the Battery is 3.331v
Is that what I was looking for?

High voltage noise

Hey,
I have a macpro mid 2010 12-cores 2.93ghz which connected to an apc br1500 ups. everything was great until the ups had a failure "f2" . I realy don't know it means, but since this failure happened the macpro has a high voltage noise from it's power cord (where it pluges into the computer). by the way, the 27" cinema display does the noise, very loud noise. besides that, both working o.k.
I took the display to the lab and it worked just fine there, no noise. so I guess there is a problem with the macpro.....:-(
anyone had the same promblem? any ideas about a possible part that might be dammaged?

It could be your power mac's supply. I don't use a UPS but I've read that there are (more expensive?) kinds with "pure" sine wave AC supplies and some cheaper ones with sine wave approximations. I don't know which category yours fits in to. Perphas when your UPS failed the AC waveform changed and affected the mac's power supply components in some way, or maybe a voltage spike. Just guessing/speculating here of course.

EQ spikes?

I'm using Logic Pro 7.2 on a dual 2ghz with os 10.4.5
I find that when switching tracks in the arange window (simply selecting them) the EQ settings go nuts.
Usually one of the upper notch filters will spike up to +24 db
This is driving me nuts. Is anyone else having this issue? Found a work around?

Specifically linked to MIDI objects I haven't noticed improvements. But related to anything audio I have had problems only remedied by using a current version created Autoload. I am not the only one here. I had all sorts of problems using V6 enviro in 7, it helped enough that I have made one for 7.1 as well. So definitely try it. Recreate your autoload and import, replace update. The more you replace the better in my experience. If you're halfway through the mix updating may be the best option. If it is early on in a production total replace may be better. These idiosyncrasies can even carry through in channel strip settings, etc (as I have observed-but I haven't seen anyone else report on that). So at least try it on a song-it will probably be worth the time even though many people's environments are quite large. Is your enviro complex? You don't have a layer for each TF1 in your TX 816 or anything, do you?

So Just How Unreliable Is GarageBand?

I've just started using GarageBand 1 that I had around, and have been absolutely horrified by file handling bugs, and everywhere I look I find people talking about all sorts of different corrupted file problems and so forth.
I'm wondering if people who are not familiar with other music apps think this is a normal and acceptable situation.
TheGarageDoor.com claims files get corrupted because...
"It's hard to say, computers these days are really quite complex, and things like voltage spikes or static discharges can sometimes affect things in a less than good way."
Orrrr. Due to highly buggy software?
So before upgrading to GB3, I'd like to get some opinions from serious DAW people who have used lots of other music apps, on how GB compares for reliability.

It's corruption of files on disk -- which I've never seen with any other DAW -- that is freaking me out.
I moved a folder full of archived GB songs to another disk partition, cloned my System to another drive, did disk repair and permissions repair on all the partitions and drives... and every single GB song lost track of its audio (in its own Package). That's some fundamentally, existentially bad file-reference programming for an app entirely dependent on file references.
I will get around to trying GB3... very, very, very carefully, while doing non-expendable work elsewhere.<
I don't understand how your archived GB songs...no matter where and how you moved them, could have been corrupted? I'm confused. I've read this complaint from time to time, and still I don't understand how an archived song can lose it's integrity. I had made a song with special things in it like changes to intruments by applying certain filters and such and sounds from another place and so on and when I saved it, I presumed it was saved. But as time passed I had ditched a couple folders during a cleaning frenzy and tossed the folder out with one of the sounds in it. Then later, I deleted an intrument that I had tweaked then used. Naturally, the song was a delirious mess after that. So I fixed it. Came here. Found out about archiving. And now it is safe...very...on a zip disk. All the other stuff has been deleted. But the integrity of the song has been retained. I just opened it...sucessfully...the other day. All the specific files are in the .band song folder and life is good.
This software is amazing, but we need to be very left-brained about protecting our work...which can be a jolt at times...because we are SO right-brained while we're working on a song. We, as the users, have to be careful about making the concientious effort to make certain we've protected our project. If not, all we end up with is a disaster and all the tears that go along with the crisis won't fix it. We are learning from our mistakes. So, we have to make sure that we don't make them.

Noise through firewire audio device 27" iMac

I am using ProTools 9 with the MBox Pro audio interface (8in - 8out). I am experiencing an intolerable noise floor that I have narrowed down to coming from the firewire port itself off my new iMac i7 27' with 8G RAM with the 2G graphics. I have not even received my Apple Care package yet; that is how new we are talking!!
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If you let the computer sit at a modest volume, once the screen saver kicks in, every picture that comes up has it's own noise, sort of like you're hearing voltage spikes from a utility transformer... so I am wondering if this could be a bad graphics card since it seems closely related to what changes on the screen? Anyone who is having these sound issues, please share. Last note: None of these conditions changed with relocation of my monitor speakers, new cords, screen resolution adjustment, or monitor brightness adjustments.

" So make no mistake, this is an issue that should be taken into consideration by Apple to address and initiate corrections in the electronics/power supply/materials or perhaps the internal design.
My follow-up post was an explanation of how I resolved the issue, but for the price, most who experience this will feel should have been resolved before their iMac was even assembled."
James230,
I have to say I do not agree with this comment.
Apple can not be made accountable for electrical systems that are not up to today's standards and codes and causing noise on your power line.
You state in your second post that the power in your area as no Earth ground and that the ground prong of your house's electrical system is grounded on conduit.
In the end grounding to conduit is the same as grounding to earth since the water intake for your house IS in the ground so all pipes connected to it are acting as a ground to earth.
The problem is that there is so much stuff connected to the water pipes, like a water heater, kitchen sink, washing machine, etc. that can create interferences, and make it a very noisy ground.
"like the battery back-up, the AC connected to it is simply charging the battery but the actual power running the laptop is through the battery.."
Not true.
The UPS solution you used is the right thing to do, but not because of the battery.
The battery in a UPS is NOT powering your equipment when you have normal electrical power on. It will only be used when the power goes out.
Same thing goes for your laptop, the battery will only be used when it is not getting power from a wall outlet.
The electricity is powering your power supply which is powering your laptop and charging your battery as needed.
Remove the battery from your laptop and it will still run from power from a wall outlet.
You are getting a cleaner ground because most decent UPS devices available today are equipped with power conditioning and noise filtering circuits that will eliminate most of the noise created by inadequate grounding.
Also note that using a ground lift like you first suggested is not only dangerous for your equipment but could also be seen as "abnormal conditions" that could be used as a reason by any equipment maker to void the warranty on their equipment if a electrical problem was found to be the cause of damages.
They could say: "Sorry, your equipment was not properly grounded, so we are not covering these repairs."

Overclocking the i7, a beginners guide

To give credit where credit is due: This was not written by myself. I have only edited parts of it.
I found this on the internet, but it was such a great article, that I wanted to draw your attention to it. Credits go to Chad. Thanks for all the effort you put into this.
What is overclocking?
Overclocking is a process of making various components in a computer to go faster than their stock speeds. So if you buy a processor (lets say an i7-920 2.66 GHz) and make it go faster (lets say 3.6 GHz), that can be deemed as overclocking.
HALT! Do not proceed any further until you have read this:
Dell, Gateway, eMachine, etc... do not overclock very well, so proceed at your own risk. You break it, it is your fault.
A little bit more of some explanation:
This guide is intended to explain how to overclock and its uses. It was made for those who have computers (moreover, motherboards and other components) that support overclocking. If you bought a brand of computer like Dell, Sony, Gateway, HP, eMachine, or any other crappy PC (not saying all of them are) that comes for a store like Walmart, Best Buy, or Circuit City, then this guide does not pertain to you. Even though it is possible to overclock these systems with software, it is not recommended nor advised. This guide is meant for anyone who has a motherboard made by ASUS, GIGABYTE, Abit, DFI, (sometimes Intel), or any other well known brand known for their boards and overclocking abilities. But be forewarned, not all boards made by these companies are made to overclock. Check and see if yours does before going any farther than this final line.
Note: There are ways to bypass hardware overclocking via software, but it is not recommended and can make your PC unstable, even rendering it unable to stay stable till the system is returned to normal. Overclocking software is made for boards that supports overclocking so that changes can be made without having to restart.
Further notes:
-Motherboards not designed for overclocking will not go as far in overclocking, become unstable sooner, and heat far quicker.
-Computers with boards that do not support overclocking do not have adequate cooling.
Why would you want to overclock if it could be damaging?
Simple, to get more out of what you payed for. Overclocking is similar to going and upgrade a car's engine by boring out its piston chambers and adding better fuel injection, air intake, transmission, etc..., but there is always a risk in doing so. But it all boils down to one thing: performance. It is hard to fry your system if you are careful and know what you are getting yourself into. If you are careful about what you do, then it is rather hard to do any kind of permanent damage to your system by pushing it to its sheer limits.
As with any kind of performance enhancement, there is a level of risk involved. The first and foremost danger is heat. Heat will degrade and damage your components beyond repair if left unchecked and will most definitely lower your system's life span. When you overclock, you are making your computer do more work than it is used to, thus it is going to generate more heat, so having a good cooling system is essential. If you do not have sufficient cooling, then your system could and will overheat. Overheat by itself cannot kill your computer though, the only way for that to happen is to repeatedly overheat it time and time again past the recommended temperatures. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS TRY TO STAY AT OR BELOW YOUR CPU's MAX RATED TEMPERATURE! If you go above this, you can risk harming your CPU. Do so at your own risk. Run your CPU at 5-10C above its max temp for short periods only and ONLY for benchmarking purposes only. DO NOT DO IT FOR LONG TERM!
And as luck would have it, you do not have to be overly worried about your system overheat as there will be signs before you system becomes a fried potato. Random crashes are probably the most common sign. Overheat is easily prevented by the use of thermal sensors which can tell you how hot your system is getting. If you see temperatures that you think is too high, then either run at a lower speed, or get better cooling, which I will cover later on.
The other danger of overclocking is voltage. Too much, and you can significantly shorten your components' lifespan. A small boost will not do much, but if you plan on a rather hefty overclock, you may want to be aware that it will decrease the lifespan of your computer's components. But this is usually not an issue since most people who will overclock do not use their components for more than 4-5 years and there is a good chance your components will not fail before 4-5 years regardless of the voltages running through it. Most processors are designed to last in upwards of ten years. So most of the time, loosing a few of those years is worth the performance gained for overclocking.
Disclaimer for my own protection:
WARNING!!! READ THIS DAMN WARNING!!! I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR YOU WHINE YOU BROKE YOUR COMPUTER SO READ THIS WARNING!!!!!!
Overclocking can really mess things up, and it wares down your hardware and its life-expectancy. In other words, the more you overclock, the shorter your computer will live (like how an F1 car's engine must be replaced after every other race). If you attempt to overclock, then I am not responsible for any damage or destroyed hardware when using this guide. Follow at your own risk.
Overclocking
This guide is meant for beginners and not for people looking to squeeze out every last bit from their processor. That’s when things become extremely motherboard specific. The goal of this guide is to try to make overclocking the core i7 an easy and enjoyable experience. Overclocking your core i7 is a must; if you don’t you’re a chump. This guide will focus more on core i7 920s, but ideas will probably carry over into EE and higher end chips with locked multipliers.
Recommended hardware:
1. A good cooler (Do not use stock if you plan to go past around 3.5. You will run your processor way too hot) (Noctua, ThermalRight Ultra Extreme or Megahalem are my preferred ones but read around.
2. DDR3 1600+ - You can get away with 1333 but with ram being as cheap as it is, why not.
3. Pretty much any x58 board (although some are better than others, read some reviews).
4. A good PSU with an EPS(8 pin) plug.
5. Paper, Pencil, and Patience – Write things down so you can remember your successes and failures. There is not much to play with in terms of the i7, but keeping track of what you tried can eliminate any frustrating experiences and also allow you to go back to a known stable settings.
Recommended software for stability testing:
1. Prime95.
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/
2. Memtest86+ http://www.memtest.org/
3. Realtemp http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
4. CPUZ - http://www.cpuid.com
Many people have personal favorites but the above are what I use.
Not all I7s are created equal:
1. So you read on a thread that someone hit 4 ghz on a C0 stepping processor with only 1.28 vcore and you’re wondering if yours will do the same. It’s doubtful, but who knows. It may take you up to 1.4 volts at least with a C0. That’s life; if you're unhappy, sell it and buy a D0.
2. Not all i7s have the same quality IMC (Integrated Memory Controller). Some are more temperamental than others and will refuse to run your ram at its rated speed without a huge raise of qpi/uncore (VTT). This is not common and often it can be a sign of the quality of the ram.
3. For the most part, D0's overclock higher and at lower voltages than C0 chips, due to refinements in the fabrication process. Late C0 chips benefitted from the same refinements, and random other batches hit 4.0 ghz at really low volts. I have been told that some D0's do not hit 4.0, but most will do so at a lower voltage than most C0's. A D0 is a more desirable chip, but it's not a must and this guide is still useful to owners of C0's.
4. Toms Hardware article about speed vs power consumption is flawed and based on one really terrible C0 that needed 1.5 vcore to hit 4ghz. Is a D0 at 1.2v at 4 ghz going to consume more power than a C0 at 3.6 and 1.32 volts? No. The D0 will use less. Power consumption at any given voltage will increase about 3-11 watts (avg 5 for every 100 mhz you increase). Something brough to my attention recently though is that this may differ because some chips are leakier than others. A D0 is by no means a guarantee that it will consume less power.
5. If you want to reach higher clocks, you may need a better motherboard, cooler, chip or whatever. This guide is not for advanced overclockers.
Key Terms and Settings Quick Guide:
BCLK – Base Clock - This clock controls your memory speed, QPI speed, and core speed based on whatever multiples for those settings you have. It's the most important part of overclocking the Core i7. It's stock setting is 133
Uncore – This is basically the speed of everything which isn't your core (i.e. L3 cache, IMC, etc). It should be 2x your memory speed but allows for multipliers higher than 2x as well. Stability will be greatest at 2x.
QPI – Quickpath interconnect - It's basically the intel equivalent of AMD's hypertransport. It's how the CPU and the X58 chipset communicate. It has multipliers of 18x, 22x, and 24x. The 920 should be left at 18x creating a 9:8 ratio between the uncore and the memory multiplier assuming you use the 8x ratio, which some claim offers the greatest stability. Although people have been able to run it at all sorts of ratios.
Memory - Memory is calculated based on either a 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, or 14x of your base clock. I recommend 6x and 8x. Depending on your mobo bios it may be called ratio or multiplier.
Ram Timings – This guide will only deal with the first four and the command rate. There are other guides regarding these. You can use XMP (intel's memory profile system) to have these values plugged in but it may set your QPI/uncore voltage automatically to 1.35 which may be more than you need (although it will be stable).
Turbo mode – This enables the 21x multiplier on the chip. Most boards allow you to do this with eist disabled, but some boards require it enabled. See if a newer bios lets you change things.
CPU Multiplier – On the 920 the range is from 12x – 21x (22x on one core when at stock speeds). It has been found that the 19x and 21x multipliers are more stable than the 20x.
Vcore – Voltage of your cpu. See below for tweaking instructions.
PLL – phase-locked loop – Just use the settings recommended below (1.8 – 1.88 is within specification).
QPI/Uncore (VTT) – This voltage is the VTT although it does play a role in feeding the IMC with voltage enough to overclock your ram, the L3 cache and a number of other things (Specification is that it should be less than 1.35 but when taking droop into account you can go higher, probably 1.4 is safe. Some ram modules have XMP profiles which call for higher QPI so some will argue that this is safe. I'm not going to argue one way or the other.)
Vdimm – Your ram voltage (Specification says 1.65 max but 1.66 is fine and so is a bit higher depending on your QPI/uncore voltage).
Important to do before you overclock:
EIST – Enhanced intel speedstep technology - It's a power saving tech that should be disabled while testing overclocking stability. This should be disabled while finding your OC, but can be enabled after you are stable (Disable if you have stability issues).
C1E – Another intel power saving technology. Disable while overclocking, enable afterwards.
Anything Spread Spectrum – Disable it.
PCIE frequency – Always at 100, but see FAQ questions below.
LLC - Load Line Calibration - This gets rid of vdroop when enabled and can help stabilize overclocks. It breaks intel spec, but it is highly recommended to enable it, since it will reduce the needed vcore for a stable OC. The argument for vdroop is that it's a standard and reduces voltage spikes. I have not been able to find anyone who's done any damage by enabling LLC and thus disabling vdroop. In an old anandtech review from 2007 they found that it increased power consumption on an X38 asus board; a newer xbitlabs article using X58 found that it actually decreased with more threads or was otherwise the same. This guide pretty much assumes you use it, but like anything else you are taking the risk. Then again, on my board, enabling it doesn't give you any red letter warning like when you maybe tap your vdimm above 1.65.
All other settings leave at auto unless needed for stability.
Initial steps:
If you've played around with any settings before reset your bios to its stock options. There's probably no need to reset your CMOS, but it can't hurt; if you don't know how to reset your CMOS then I suggest you learn to do so. It's unlikely that you will have to as most modern motherboards will usually have some sort of protection against bad overclocks and automatically allow you to reset the bios upon a bad boot.
Once your bios is at its stock configuration disable EIST, turbo mode, C1, and any other power saving options that may interfere with an overclock as well as any spread spectrum settings. Now, boot into windows (If you want to use the 21x multiplier then go right ahead and set it as long as you can do so without enabling EIST). Open up cpuz, load up prime and see where the voltage goes. This is your approximate vid for stock. The chip may very well run under this voltage, but this is the vid that the bios is seeing.
From here we have a number of different methods we can try. I always change my BCLK in my bios settings so that anything set to auto will adjust itself if need be, although you are free to use whatever windows based tools you want although beware of any problems they may cause you.
You should always set your memory to 8x or 6x depending on what you have and your uncore to 2x the memory. Leave the QPI at the lowest setting.
Set windows not to restart on a bsod (You want to know what the error was):
Windows XP and Vista Directions, but it is the same for Win7.
Method #1: Optimizing for max performance per watt.
This method takes by far the most amount of time but for many its worth it in terms of its power efficiency.
Begin by going into the bios and changing your voltage to your vid and setting QPI/uncore (VTT) to 1.25 (I have raised this due to concerns about droop at 1.2) and vdimm to 1.65 (Most boards can't do this; 1.66 is safe, ignore your spaz bios warnings; you are not going to explode anything, although if you do, it's not my fault. Set it to 1.64 if it helps you sleep easier. I recommend at this point to be working with either the 21x multiplier if possible in order to keep your ram as much out of the equation as possible. 20X has known problems and 19x will land you with high ram speeds quicker which will require raises in the QPI/uncore voltage sooner.
Open up real temp and run Prime 95 with 8 threads and check stability for an hour at least (The more the better. I recommend overnight just to make sure all is good). Record your settings on a piece of paper or email them to yourself. Make sure to have Realtemp open in order to watch your temperatures. Temperatures should not exceed 80-85 during Prime. During normal use for extended periods, they should never see these kinds of temperatures. I like to keep mine below 70 for normal usage.
After its stable go into the bios and increase the BCLK by 10 and repeat the process. Find the max BCLK for your stock vid (or any voltage, if you'd like by lowering by smaller amounts when you find an unstable clock. This will help you know what you can run at any given voltage.
See below for known Prime 95 errors and how they relate to your settings (also some settings to try for stability). Once you get to the clocks you want, I recommend running Prime for at least 16-24 hours. I have in fact had errors in the 14th hour so it's good to know that you're truly stable.
See also below for optimizing your ram settings.
Method #2: Quick and dirty method for 4ghz aka screw efficiency
Set your ioh and ich to 1.2, your vdimm to 1.65, your cpu pll to 1.88, and your QPI/uncore to 1.35.
For D0 users set your vcore to 1.275 and for C0/C1 users set your vcore to 1.4 and BCLK to 190/191 or 210/211 and multiplier to 21 and 19 respectively. Check for Prime stability. D0's should be fine, but C0/C1 still may not make it, at this point your temps may be too high if you're not on water, so I suggest you start working backward in order to hit a much lower vcore or use method 3.
Method #3: Quick and dirty vcore boosting.
Set your ioh and ich to 1.2, your vdimm to 1.65, your cpu pll to 1.88, and your QPI/uncore to 1.35. Set BCLK to 190/191 or 210/211 and multiplier to 21 and 19 respectively.
The D0 chip usually hits 4.0 in the vcore range of 1.175 and 1.25. Try those voltages until you find whats right for your chip.
The C0/C1 is a much more difficult beast with a much larger range of 1.27 to around 1.4 and up to 1.5 (Do not attempt on air unless you live somewhere really, really cold). Some may not hit 4ghz at all.
This method is more difficult as some chips may not boot until you give them the proper vcore
How to use Prime95 to test stability:
Open up Prime95 and Realtemp to check your idles and loads. Set Prime95 to whatever priority you'd like. I prefer 4 or 7 so that realtemp still updates but some people prefer 10 and will run without a temperature monitor. Either is fine, but I'm always paranoid that my cooler will somehow become unlatched spontaneously. Set windows not to restart on bluescreen by setting [insert settings here] so that you can catch the error (although windows will record it somewhere). Start a mixed torture test and let it run for however long, depending on if you're only doing a temporary stability test in order to raise (about 1 hour) or a true stability test (16-24 hours). Once you've passed Prime95 you can run any other stability test that you want.
Prime 95 Errors:
Freeze: Increase the vcore
Other errors can indicate instability with the chip if they are during small fft (increase vcore by .125) or instability with ram large ftt (Try raising the ioh and/or running memtest).
BSOD code 101: Increase the vcore. I recommend increasing by +.025 if you get a bsod
BSOD code 124: Increasese or decrease the QPI/uncore by .25. Depending on where you are in your stability tests you'll probably need to increase it. 1.375 is the max I'm comfortable with although people say 1.4+ is safe. This is for you to determine and research. Don't do anything you're not comfortable with. Intel says do not go above 1.35 so 1.375 with droop and loss is safe and not too far outside specification.
It is important to note that sometimes QPI can be too high and that might cause this code. That's why it's not a good idea to just set things to 1.35 and hope for the best. If you find that increasing QPI/uncore voltage is not increasing stability, try decreasing it. Just remember of course, to keep track of your settings. I recommend not increasing, unless you have to (Don't be arbitrary about it).
D0 exclusive BSOD weird 2 letter/number codes: Treat this as a 101 and increase vcore by +.025. Update: It seems that these error codes can crop up for other reasons. Depending on where you are in the process you should take a look at your other voltages. I realize this is vague, but you may need to experiment.
If any worker fails, especially during small fft then it's cpu voltage. Bump it once or twice. If it fails during large fft then its probably memory error you can try running memtest/upping ioh. I would try running small fft at that point for a good amount of time and make sure its not the cpu voltage. If it passes 8-12 hours of small fft then work on making it pass large fft. Just remember to keep track of your settings. That's not to say that a large fft error won't be the result of cpu voltage, it's just not what I would try. Be methodical. If something allows Prime to run significantly longer then keep it. Significant depends where you are in the process. If your workers fail as soon as you start and a setting change gets you through a test then I'd say its good. If you get crashes during the 8th hour, and the setting change only gets you another 5 minutes in the 8th hour, it's probably just random and not the setting.
Testing Memory Stability with memtest 86+:
Personally, I do not run memtest until I actually encounter what could be memory errors( I assume things work until proven otherwise). Begin by setting your ram timings in the bios and setting your QPI/uncore to 1.35 and your vdimm to 1.64-1.66. Do not oc your cpu. Just run your ram at its rated spec to make sure that the ram is stable and not defective. You can also check it again with an oc'ed cpu as well. If it's unstable try raising the ioh to 1.20 or higher. If you are still getting errors try each dimm one at a time and see if you need to RMA (A pain in the *** but necessary).
Optimizing ram with memtest86+:
Assuming your ram is stable you can either overclock, lower voltage, tighten timings, or all of the above.
1. Lowering voltage. Run memtest86 for 20 minutes, if you get errors, stay where you are. Otherwise lower the vdimm by .02 and repeat until you get an error within 20 minutes. Then run it overnight.
2. Overclocking. You may be able to run your ram faster than you thought. Loosen the timings(make them higher) and then increase BCLK. You can optimize your voltage with the above number one. Depending on the ram, you may be able to overclock quite a bit or not at all. Running your ram at anything above 1066 is in fact overclocking the IMC.
3. Tightening timings. Timings should be decreased as such. Assuming you begin with 9-9-9 your next step should be 9-9-8 then 9-8-8 then 8-8-8. You can also try 8-9-8 but this is going to depend on your memory. You may need to raise voltages to tighten the timings.
The usefulness of overclocking your ram is limited. See the useful links sections below to see how certain ram settings will impact your real life performance.
Frequently asked questions:
Q: I can't raise my BCLK over some number. How do I fix it? What's the deal?
A: Not all chips and motherboards are made the same. You can try playing around with voltage amplitude, pll, skew or pcie (pcie is probably best not raised as it can cause damage). This is a question that is better asked on a thread dedicated to a specific board. You may end up being out of luck.
Q: What are safe voltages?
A: According to Intel or common knowledge the following are the safe air temperatures:
Vcore: ~1.4
QPI/uncore (VTT): 1.35
PLL: 1.88
Vdimm:~1.65 (Some will say that you are safe within .5 of your QPI/uncore allowing for a max of 1.85 on vdimm. See the link to the xtreme systems forum below on this subject for a long thread).
IOH: Less than 1.3
ICH: Less than 1.3
Q: My chip is too hot before I can reach 4 ghz. What can I do?
A: Disable hyperthreading or buy a better cooler (Noctua, TRUE or Megahalems recommended).
Q: But don't I want hyperthreading?
A: It's certainly nice to have a feature you paid for, but it sometimes decreases performance and it definitely causes a lot of heat. It's up to you.
Q: How do I go past 4ghz?
A: Same way as you got there in the first place. Just keep increasing BCLK. Past this point though it's up to you to do some research on your own.
Q: What is this multiplier throttling I've heard about?
A: Some boards will throttle down the 21x multiplier if the wattage becomes too high. The culprits without public fixes are the Asus P6T Deluxe and vanilla (The Deluxe v1 has a bios available on the xtremesystems forum which can be crossflashed onto the v2 which will fix this problem) It really only becomes a problem at high voltages with high frequencies. Other boards have ways of disabling it.
Q: Why would I want to optimize my voltages?
A: Save money on power bills and leave more wattage for other devices.
Q: My chip was stable for X amount of time and now it's not?
A: Have you added any hardware? How are your temperatures? High voltages and high temps can cause decay and make the chip require more voltage for an overclock. It may also be that your PSU is starting to go or maybe your motherboard is. Do your best to troubleshoot this.
Q: My temperatures seem really high? Is X degrees ok?
A: A better question is whether or not you are ok with X degrees. How long do you plan to won this chip? What are your ambients? If your house is 40 degrees centigrade, don't expect your chip to drop below that unless you are using extreme cooling (also try to move somewhere cooler cause that's really hot or get some AC, are you trying to cook yourself?). A cpu well taken care of can last over a decade when run within spec. How long do you really think you're going to keep this chip? A rule of thumb I go by is never push a part that I can't afford to replace if I break it (I do this anyway, but its a good rule nonetheless). Your temps will always get higher than normal when stress testing so do some normal stuff to see if your temperatures are acceptable. Try backing down a bit if you are unhappy.
Q: I heard this will work or this needs to be this way?
A: Try it. This is a general guide, not a set of hard and fast rules.
Q: My computer restarted while priming; how do I find out the error?
A: If you haven't already, disable bsod restarts in windows. Sometimes, though, it decides to restart anyway.
Open Computer Management by right-clicking the Computer icon on the start menu (or on the Desktop if you have it enabled) and select Manage. Navigate to the Event Viewer. Note: If you did not disable UAC then you will be prompted to consent to the action you're about to perform. Click Continue. Note: You can also open the Event Viewer by typing Event Viewer in the Search box and pressing Enter, or typing eventvwr.msc in the Run command.
Also check the results.txt in your Prime95 folder for a log of when it ultimately crashed and what it was doing at the time.
Q: Whats the deal with PCIE frequency? Can it help break my BCLK wall?
A: Yes, but I advise caution. Raising this too much can damage things running on the pcie bus or cause them to not work. I would not raise it personally more than a few mhz. You are probably safe at 103, but I take no responsibility of course.
Voltages/settings you can try to use to increase stability:
PLL: 1.88
IOH: 1.2+
ICH: 1.2
CPU voltage amplitude: +800mv
CPU Skew: +300ps
Command rate: change from 1n to 2n
You should really check in on your specific board as not all boards have the same settings. Be methodical in testing settings since you want to know whether something helped or hurt by itself before you combine.
Useful Links:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/538439-guide-overclocking-core-i7-920-4-a.html
Intel Info on the i7
QPI/Uncore voltage (XS) (Do not take this as gospel try to stay in spec unless you feel like really pushing things)
Info on multiplier throttling (XS)
Memory Scaling on the Core I7

My i7 rig is with a socket 1156 board, an Asus P7P55D mobo, and an 860 CPU. I know the Corsair DDR3 memory @ its stock 1.65v simply doesn't run at 1600mhz like it says on its box - 1333mhz seems to be its stability wall.
I upgraded my Q6600 and Asus P5B deluxe rig because so many people said to never consider overclocking on an editing rig. Was that over-cautious advice?

Cannot install windows, starting to get really pissed off with this PLEASE HELP

ok, i'm starting to get agitated with this.
i cannot install windows XP, 2003, OR Longhorn on my machine.
right now, i have the following setup:
msi 865pe neo2 motherboard
intel p4 3.2ghz w/HT (factory HS/Fan currently)
1 dimm of PC3200 crucial DDR400
30GB maxtor HD plugged into primary IDE
pioneer dvd/cd drive as sencondary IDE
alps 3.5" floppy drive
antec true blue 480wt PSU
i do the following:
format with maxtor cd
boot from OS cd
start setup, reboot, continue
the farthest i can get is 'registering components/completing installation' i either get a blue screen stop error which isnt the same everytime, or it just locks up and doesnt do anything.
ran the memtest checker and get errors on test #4
i had a DIMM of kingston that gave the same errors, so i RMA'd it and got another. same errors, so i RMA'd again and got a Crucial stick. same errors.
so i RMA'd the motherboard since i figured it had to be that. and it improved from the problems i had earlier. (the problems i had before were worse before.)
below are my BIOS settings. SOMEONE WHO KNOWS PLEASE HELP ME!
advanced bios features:
quick boot - enabled
boot order - floppy, cd, HDD
full logo - disabled
s.m.a.r.t - enabled
num-lock on boot - enabled
floppy swap - disabled
floppy seek - enabled
save rom to HD - no
boot to os/2 - no
hyper threading - disabled
mps revision - 1.4
apic acpi sci irq - disabled
cpu l1 & l2 cache - enabled
bios cacheable - disabled
c000, 32k shadow - disabled
advanced chipset:
dram timing...
configure by spd - enabled
(i dont know what to set timing to, nothing anyone has since said helps)
integrated perfs:
usb controller - enabled (same errors if its disabled too so its not USB)
usb device legacy support - disabled
on chip IDE:
operate mode - legacy mode
ata config - pata only
sata keep enabled - yes (for sata drive i have, error either way)
pata channel selection - both
onboard ethernet, 1394, prmoise ide and audio all DISABLED
pc healt status:
cpu - 49°C/120°F (idle sitting in bios)
system temp - 28°C/82ºF
cpu fan - 2678rpm
nb fan speed - 6490rpm
vcore - 1.456 up to 1.502
3.3v - 3.232v
+5.0v - 5.003v
+12v - 11.680v
-12v - -11.743v
-5.0v - -4.826v
battery - 2.896v
+5V SB - 4.945
freq/voltage control
Dynamic OC - disabled
cpu ratio locked
dram freq - auto
spread spectrum - enabled
cpu bus clock - 200
ddr clock (grayed out) - 400
adjust agp/pci - 66.66/33.33
cpu vcore adjust - no
cpu vcore (grayed out) - 1.5500v
ddr power voltage - 2.65v
agp power voltage - 1.50v
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!
i'm running out of time, money, patience.
if it cant be solved i'm going to set myself on fire!

Quote
Originally posted by REILLY875
Do NOT try the 250 Watt PSU!!, As "Wonk" said if you happen to Blow it, the PSU will most likely Take out the Mo-Bo with it! And maybe the CPU to, due to the Voltage Spike you would get ...I would not put to much Credence into the fact that as of now the +12V and the +3.3V Rails are reading a little low,(I say this because it is indeed a ANTEC), as this could be the Monitoring Hardware, or the Software that might be reading wrong....If I where you I would First set the Memory Timings Manually to 3-4-4-7-8, And up the DRAM (VDIMM) Voltage to 2.7 Volts, and if it still wont Load, I would Definitly try a different DIMM Slot, and Rince and Repeat .....If you dont mind me asking , Why are you running with just 1 Module?....Is it on purpose or are you saving up for More?................Sean REILLY875
yea, i dont plan to run the 250. im gonna wait for the new 480.
thanks for the info about ram timings as well. i havnt gotten any solid answers about what to set it to.
even with new mobo and ram, i'm getting errors in memtest86 #4 test as i always have. i've tried different slots with same problems.
i only have one module because i dont want to waste anymore money on a non-working system. once i get it up and running i'll add another 512.

Filtering voltage spikes

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