FIX THE MP3 CHIPMUNK EFFECT
When are you goes going to make the Flash Player compatible
with variable bit rates and sample rates? Your chipmunk effect for
non-compliant MP3s is driving us all crazy! Everyone loves the
Flash Player because it loads so fast, but unfortunately not
everyone knows how to encode their MP3s so that it plays normally
in Flash (i.e. without variable bit rates and at a sample rate that
is a multiple of 11.025 kHz). Our site uses the Flash Player to
stream others MP3s via podcasts & other things, but many of
them sound like chipmunks!!! In the next update of Flash can you
fix this? PLEASE!!!!
When?
Similar Messages
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I forgot about slow download speed's negative effects... hence (I think) the videos I downloaded stop in the middle. I can get a better download speed if I connect directly to LAN. Is there anyway for me to fix the videos previously purchased or re download them without having to re purchase them? I'm attempting to play the video's directly from iTune "purchased" folder on my Win7 Home Premium PC.
Never mind.. I found instructions on how to re download purchased items. I only need help downloading 2 more items. I love the attention I've recieeved (I guess silly questions go unoticed... sigh)
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FIX the long backups, not disable them. Solution is here!
NOTE: This process was performed on an iPod Touch 2.0.2 with iTunes 7.7.1.11 on a PC running Windows XP. The process is the same (or similar) for the iPhone.
+*My backups used to take 4 hours. Now they take just minutes, even with 40+ apps*+ installed including large apps like Texas Hold 'em, Brain Challenge, and Vay. No, I am not exaggerating. A fresh sync generally takes no more than 5 minutes from the time I plug my iPod in to the time I disconnect.
I do not guarantee this process will work for you. I can't do that. But it has worked for a lot of other people. This fix is an adaptation from geauxracerx's solution posted here. Read what others have said. I do not take credit for the solution, but I added in a few steps and gave a little more detailed info to fill in the blanks, fix problems and answer the questions I ran into when following geauxracerx's instructions.
Extraordinary long backups are caused by an error when an app (or apps) was installed or updated, particularly if you have ever installed or updated using the App Store on the device itself rather than iTunes. Even if you were never aware that there was a problem, they can arise and will cause problems with the backup process. Maybe you did have a problem during an update or install. Maybe the update stalled, or the App Store crashed. These issues are very likely what have been causing your long backups and you didn't even know it. During the backup process these errors cause it to drag and pause for a very long time before it gets moving again. From your view, you just see a normal backup that is taking hours, and undoubtedly annoying you to no end. On the inside, iTunes is trying desperately to get past a roadblock that it doesn't know where it came from.
This is how to fix the problem. *This is not a quick fix, but it is an effective fix. And it is a FIX, not a band aid.* Depending on how many apps you have installed, this can take several hours to complete. *You will also lose all game scores and any other data stored in your apps.* You will be starting fresh. It is an inconvenience, but in the end, you will be rewarded with quick, efficient backups, the way Apple intended. And you will never have to dread the
iTunes backup again.
The Process:
1. Open iTunes, go to Edit>Preferences>Syncing and remove all previous backups. Also click "Disable automatic syncing for all iPhones and iPods"
2. In your system file structure, locate the backup files for iTunes.
On Windows: C:\Documents and Settings\USERNAME\Application Data\Apple Computer\MobileSync\Backup
On a Mac: Users/YOURACCOUNT/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup
Delete ALL files and folders inside the Backup folder.
3. Plug in iPod. On the Applications tab, uncheck sync apps. Click sync. This will remove all apps on your iPod, it will also backup the ipod. This backup will be very fast, and will recreate the backup folders you deleted in
step 2.
4. If there are any apps left on your ipod, touch and hold the icon until it starts to wiggle, then touch the X to delete the app. Delete all apps left on your ipod. Then sync again.
5. After the sync is complete, disconnect the iPod and do a hard restart by holding down the sleep/power button until the slider appears, slide to power off. Wait 5 seconds and push the power button again and wait for the ipod to boot up.
6. Now begin adding apps back to your ipod one by one. On the Applications tab, click "Sync applications" AND "Selected applications".
7. Click one app and sync. After the sync is complete, right click on your ipod under Devices in the left column of iTunes. Click "Back Up" and allow the backup to complete.
8. Repeat step 7 for each app you want to install. Be sure to backup after each install. As you add more and more apps, the backup will take longer and longer as the process scans apps for changes. An initial backup can also be long for a particularly large application. However, ONLY the initial backup after you install an app will take a long time. Subsequent backups are very quick. Even these "long" backups are just minutes long, sometimes up to 15 minutes in my experience.
9. When you are finished installing and backing up all apps, go to Edit>Preferences>Syncing and enable automatic syncing for all iPhones and iPods.
10. Unplug and plug your device back in just for kicks. Let it back up and sync. Better?
Notes:
The very first time an application is backed up, all critical data is written to your hard drive. This is why the backups are so long the first time. Afterward, only data changes are written, so backups are much shorter.
Backup times will continue to vary based on how many apps were altered since the last sync. If you've used one app since the last backup, your backup will be very short. If you've used 20 apps, the backup will be longer. But you will be rid of the dreaded hour (or more) long backup, that is a promise.
Now that your apps are installed and backing up correctly, the number one rule is to *never, ever install or update apps through the App Store on the iPod*. ONLY install and update through iTunes, and backup after every install or update. The App Store on the iPod is still unstable and can cause lock ups, crashes and freezes. And it is the culprit in these long backup times. Avoid it until the bugs are ironed out.
Also, do not be tempted to disable backups using programs or code edits available online. Your backups are crucial in the event of a restore. Backups contain all of your personal data like game scores, notes, icon arrangement, application data, etc. And it's not a matter of if you'll have to restore one day, it's when, and you'll be glad you have a backup when you do.Thanks for your reply, the trackpad is 9 months old, but it was a christmas present so I dont have the receipt.
Also Im in Dubai, which pretty much means that your warranty lasts as long as they remember your face in the shop buying it!
I have read through over 10 pages of people with the same problem as mine here on the support site, the only variable is different solutions
work for some people, and nothing works for others.
I found turning my iPhone off fixed the problem for 2 days!!
Most people seem to only have the issue with Mavericks, and a few suffered with the Lions.
The movies are playing fine, they just keep pausing and playing continuously from phantom clicks.
Its got so bad now, I dont even have enough control to restart the machine!
I would simply chance buying a new trackpad... but after I received a phantom click about 20 seconds AFTER the pad was switched off, I dont wanna go throwing more money at this needlessly.
I wish Apple would take these sort of things seriously, if I cant get this sorted in a week, Im gonna have to either upgrade my Macbook to Mavericks (which I did before, then spent 2 days reverting back to Snow Leopard)
Or im gonna have to buy a PC and Cubase!
If any one at Apple is reading this (I do believe I just heard an echo!) Some of us rely on your equipment for work, and we do seem to pay a very big premium just for the privilege of the little white logo.
Is there any chance you could show your existing users a hint of respect or common courtesy by taking these issues seriously?
It is after all our loyalty to your brand over the years that put you were you are today. -
Warning: the document raster effects resolution is 72 ppi or less
How do I address / fix the issue that leads to this WARNING when saving my Illustrator CS6 file? All embedded images are 300 ppi.
Kristen,
The warning has nothing to do with your images.
It is simply a statement that tells you that you have not set Effect>Document Raster Effects Settings higher than the default screen value of 72 PPI.
If you have no raster effects applied to your vector artwork there is no need to worry.
If you have, you should consider which value is suitable. -
I have converted my itunes on my imac to mp3 format so i could play them on my pc. unfortunatly i did not specify a seperate folder for the mp3's to be sent to once converted.
i now have itunes and mp3's side by side in the itunes media folder. this has the effect of doubling my library.
how can i get rid of the mp3's from this folder en mass, other than erasing them one by one, there are 7000!!!Click on 'Music' in the iTunes sidebar. Look to see whether you have a 'Kind' column:
If you haven't, choose 'View Options' from the 'View' menu and check 'Kind':
Now go to the Music list again and click on the label of the 'Kind' column. This will group all your AACs and MP3s together. Locate the MP3s: click on the top one. Hold the shift key and click on the bottom one to select them all. If you want to save them drag them to a folder on your Desktop. Then hit 'Delete'. IMPORTANT: when promted, choose to have them moved to the Trash, otherwise they will be removed from the list but kept in the actual library. -
One more nugget: Chart zoom with the "Mouse Over" effect
Hello all.
Just read my signature first, it might explain a lot. I do not intend to compete with Darren and I don't think this "nugget" (at least it supposed to be one) will amaze any of the LV veterans and this forum is rich of them. But maybe it will bring some new ideas to some of you or maybe it will be useful for some LV beginners (like me). It is very likely, my code will have some lapses, but please be gentle pointing that out to me. If you feel a need, you can always optimize the code and develope it further. Just don't forget to share!
So back to the point.
I am developing a project using LV. In my program there is a waveform chart which has to show 4 plots. Depending on the length of the X Scale, it sometimes gets hard to see the plots clearly because of their density.So I decided that I need a tool, which would zoom the chart in. And this is what I have came up with after a few "Google" searches to check which part of the bike is already invented and also a bit of programming by myself.
Maybe you guys (at least the veterans) know the BetterVIEW Consulting LV example where they have implemented the Mouse Over effect. So a part of their example has been used in this tool and part of the credit must go to them. I thank them a lot
This tool uses a cluster and its property of visibility to show/hide the cluster depending on if the current position of the mouse cursor is in the desired range or not. The program also gets the image of the chart and returns the subset of the image. The subset is taken for the area arounf the mouse cursor. So if you move the mouse, the zoomed in area will also chage in response. After that, the subset of the image is zoomed in for better view.
The user might chage the zoom factor during the execution. Also it is possible to turn the zoom option On or Off if you don't wish to see it for the moment.
This is how the front panel looks like:
And this is the image of the block diagram (see the attached files for the vi, the VI Snippet tool distorts the code too much, so I haven't added it):
I haven't found anything the same in the forum. Yet I'm a newbie here and I don't have that much experience surfing it. If it wouldn't be something new (in the forum, not necessarily to some of you personally), just ignore the thread. I hope this was worth your time and your attention.
Good coding
Message Edited by Giedrius.S on 02-11-2010 12:46 PM
While evaluating my code please have in mind that I am a LV novice. Therefore sometimes my code might violate some coding rules that I have to learn about myself. But how else could I do that...
Chart zoom with "Mouse Over" effect
Attachments:
Zoom.vi 198 KB
Mouse_pos.vi 20 KB
Check_pos.vi 18 KBVery nice Giedrius.
It takes guts to "step up to the chalk board" so I will do what i can to give you some ideas to think about. This is similar to the type of feedback I offer durring our in-house code reviews.
1) The floating property nodes outside the loop are not sequenced by wires so they could execute after the loop starts. Sometimes this could cause weird errors. Seq with the error cluster.
2) Property nodes can be re-sized so you can apply more than one property setting in the same call. Property node have to execute in the UI thread (which is single threaded) so using a single nodes will force a single context switch rather than one for each.
3) Setting the same property repeatedly in a loop just burns CPU. THe Scale min for both X an Y can be moved outside the loop ?
4) THe Wait Until Next ms" function does not get used in any of my code. It is not a way to get a fixed wait but rather a random wait. If you code completes 1 ms after the next multiple, the delay is double less 1 ms. If you have multiple loops using them and it f the delay for each are not unique prime numbers, then the "Wait until next ms multiple" is a good (cough cough) way of getting them all to wake up at the same time and fight for the CPU.
5)An Event Struture to monitor mouse enter/leave and mouse move (this would have to be a sepearte loop) is easier on the CPU than polling.
6) Is that math in the case to handle the Chart position on the FP? If so then using the property nodes for the chart to find its postion will let you code adapt to GUI changes.
7) Right to left wires are not well recieved.
8) A Bundle by Name is prefered over a "Bundle" since it is self documenting. I know the Picture function so I can see that is the rectangle you are specifying but reader not famliar with that function would not be able to "READ" the code without poking at it.
9) THe event structure would also help with setting the Zoom factor. Only poke it when you have to.
That is all that comes to mind at the moment.
Again thank you!
Ben
Ben Rayner
I am currently active on.. MainStream Preppers
Rayner's Ridge is under construction -
How I FIXED the black out problem!
I posted this in another thread, but thought it might get lost, so I'm posting it here in the hopes that it may help others who are out of warranty and have nothing to lose.
Please know that this is a very diffcult procedure and if you're not comfortable with the idea of possibly destroying your entire laptop, don't even think about trying this!
First, you will need to download the appropriate service manual for your model PowerBook:
http://home.earthlink.net/~strahm_s/manuals.html#pbks
Second, I would highly recommend that you go to your local Radio Shack and pourchase the correct tools. You will need a set of precision screwdrivers and a Torx #8 (I think) also. I also recommend that you obtain about 15 of those little zip lock baggies that they put extra coat buttons into (of course any bag will do).
As you take apart the laptop and remove the screws, you should place each screw set into a bag and label it with a Sharpie. Believe me, this is worth the time and effort to do this. The service manual will list an Apple part number for the screws as you take them out. When you reassemble the laptop, you will simply find the part number of the screw you need.
The Problem (Overview):
My screen would flicker between all black parts in the lower 1/3 to 2/3rds of the display. Adjusting the angle of the display would generally fix the issue until it was moved again or needed another adjustment. I used it like this for a few months before it finally was no longer fixable by simply adjusting the display. One day it just wasn't fixable by adjustment anymore. I couldn't see anything above 2/3rds of the display. previously, the powerbook had been dropped on the corner by the power plug, and must have caused damage to the display.
At first I thought it was a loose connection in the LVDS or video cable, but upon taking the entire unit apart, I found that the cable was very secure and no amount of jiggling it had any effect on the display itself. It definitely wasn't a pinched cable or loose connection in the cable.
I then started a search to buy a replacement screen. And upon taking the unit apart to remove the panel itself from the rear casing, I would preiodically plug the power back in and power up the PowerBook to see if anything I was doing was having any effect on the display. With the rear casing removed, I noticed that applying slight pressure on the rear of the screen on the left middle edge would affect the display and cause the image to appear again perfectly.
Obviously, I couldn't use the PowerBook this way, so I cut some narrow strips of rubber and used a glue stick to adhere them in the same spots where my fingers were. With the rear casing snapped back in place, it applied direct pressure to this same area, resulting in a perfect picture!
The actualy rubber pieces I used came from underneath the Airport card, so if you want to use something else, perhaps a strip from a bicycle innertube would do the same trick and would be of the same thickness.
Since putting it back together, the image is perfect. I have noticed that some [hard] direct thumping of the display bezel or hard shaking of the unit will cause some flicker, but in the past, even the slightest motion would knock the image out. So IMO, this is an incredible improvement. Since my "repair" I haven't had the issue appear once!
If you have no other solutions to try, and are somewhat savvy with taking things apart, give my method a shot. I'm just amazed that it works so well!
The image is of the rear of the panel. Facing you, it would be the left side of the screen. Where you apply the strip may be in another location. I don't recommend putting it anywhere except on the edges of the screen or you will likely damage the panel or introduce spots or pressure smudges. Good luck!
BTW, you may be able to test to see if your panel could be fixed with a similar approach by gently squeezing the sides of the display while it's connected to your laptop and watching for the screen to come back or flicker more. In my case, the squeezing definitely affected the image quality: when I applied pressure the image was stable. When I let go, it went to $hit.
PowerMac G5 Dual 2.5GHz Mac OS X (10.4.7) 320GB/5GB/16xSD/AE/BT/Radeon x800/iSight/30" ACD/nano
PowerMac G5 Dual 2.5GHz Mac OS X (10.4.7) 320GB/5GB/16xSD/AE/BT/Radeon x800/iSight/30" ACD/nanoI just switched to Roadrunner and am having the same "can't send email" problem. I have done what you suggested, but the problem persists. I did note that in my outgoing mail server box it says: smtp-server.wi.rr.com:jzelinger3 (Offline). I'm not sure where the "Offline" is coming from or why it is there. Any suggestions? I performed the following Terminal tests with a tech. support person from Roadrunner:
Last login: Wed Jan 21 19:36:52 on console
CPE-75-86-226-41:~ joan$ telnet pop-server.wi.rr.com 110
Trying 71.74.56.78...
Connected to pop-server.wi.rr.com.
Escape character is '^]'.
+OK POP3 server ready.
user [email protected]
+OK please send PASS command
pass laikatess
+OK [email protected] is welcome here
telnet smtp-server.wi.rr.com 25
-ERR Invalid command; valid commands: CAPA, DELE, LIST, LAST, NOOP, RETR, RSET, STAT, TOP, UIDL or QUIT
This is very frustrating.
J. A. Zelinger -
A way how to fix the Zen Micro head phone jack prob
Hi! I am one of the many people that purchased a Zen Micro MP3 player, I loved it until around 6 months of use, an audio shorting problem with the head phone jack, started to repeat it's self every time, that I would plug my head phone's into the Zen Micro head phone jack. After awhile, I was tired of this problem, so I just decided to never use it again, unless I could find out if the maker of the Zen Micro had a repair service. I noticed that some people had their Micro's replaced a few times under the warranty that is included with the player. I also noticed that some one created a way to fix this problem, but I wanted to see if I could find an easier way to fix the problem. Well I did end up finding an easier way to fix the problem, this is what I did.
Absolutely in all means I can't be held responsible / reliable for any unforseen thing / things, that you may or could, do to the Zen Micro, by following the instructions, which I provided. By trying what I did by following the instructions, which I provided you; you accept all responsibility to any thing / things, that may or could happen to the Zen Micro.
The Instructions:
I took a stapler pressed it down to get a used staple then I carefully inserted it in the outer part of the plastic head phone jack ring. Then I pressed the rest of the staple flat against the Zen micro. And Now I get great sound, it is at least better than, the way it was before I inserted the staple. I would suggest to always remove the staple. When you connect the Zen Micro to a computer, charging device, or any other device other than a pair of head phones. You understand that if you leave the staple inserted in the Zen Micro and don't remove it. While you have it connected to a computer, charging device, or any other device, or devices, even a pair of head phones, and some thing happens, you can't hold me responsible.
If you would like to see a photo of how it looks please reply to this message and just include your email address please. I will send it to you as soon as possible. The photo has 4 photos sized down to perfectly fit on one photo, so you can get a good idea of what it should look like.
Message Edited by theZenDude07 on 02-28-200707:45 PMThank you for the information, can I please have the photos so I dont destroy it entirely !. Take care,?Simon?(Dublin, Ireland)
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Did Apple fix the video quality issue in iMovie '09?
I am a casual video editor and iMovie 08 had the perfect user experience / functionality for what I want to do.
However, the known video quality issue (throwing away interlaced scan lines) made the result unacceptable since I archive our family video on DVDs. I have been forced to use iMovie HD for that reason. I have tried tricks such as converting the original DV files to AIF and deinterlace prior to import into iMovie08 but that did not seem to work either.
So does anyone know if Apple fixed the video quality issue in iMovie '09.
MESSAGE TO APPLE IF YOU ARE LISTENING:
Please fix the video quality in iMovie09 if not already. Yes, the quality is ok for YouTube or Internet video but for those of us who want simple editing to archive our family video we cannot accept poor video quality. Dropping an interlace field effectively halves the vertical resolution. Thank you.Please explain this in more detail when you say Adaptive Deinterlacer. Are you talking about another program? If so, what program and what are the specific steps.
Also, sounds like you are recommending imovie09. By saying to do the above, are you saying imovie09 still causes you too loose significant quality like imovie08? Are you saying you can use imovie08 or imovie09 with these steps to get high quality video or just imovie09? I guess I just need more specifics on how you do what you are describing and how imovie09 fits into this versus imovie08. I joined this whole discussion trying to figure out if upgrading imovie09 made a difference regarding the whole quality issue. I know it has more features, but I am more concerned about he quality of the video right now. Thanks. -
How I fixed the colored vertical lines on my Mac Powerbook G4 17"
Hello all,
I know that many people with a Powerbook G4 17" are suffering from the colored vertical line problem on their displays. This is were a pixel wide vertical line of color (yellow, green, purple, red, and/or blue) randomly appears on the laptop's display, usually between 24-36 months after purchase. This is also known on various internet forums as the "bridget riley effect" -- named after a painter whose art looks very similar to this effect. Many, if not all, of the laptops that suffer from this defect are 17" displays and have a serial number that starts with W8. Mine starts with W85; you can check yours by looking underneath the battery. It usually starts off as just one line, then two, then a few months pass and before you know it your screen looks like this:
This is my screen two years after the first line showed up, which was two and half years after getting it in December of 2005. Not so pretty. And completely useless without an external display, kind of killing the purpose of a Laptop. As a film editor I needed my screen to see the images and more importantly I needed it to be mobile. There's not always a screen to plug into.
I tried getting Apple to fix the problem, but apparently they're just ignoring the fact that almost all the laptops that came from this certain factory in Thailand (indicated by the serial number starting with W8) have failing displays. They delete threads and forums on their website, and try to censor and ignore the problem as much as they can. Unless some huge media blitz happens, or there is some kind of legitimate lawsuit, I highly doubt they ever will do anything about it, and you can't really blame them. They are a big business and addressing this problem with cost them potentially millions in repairs and tarnish their reputation as a quality manufacturer, and Apple's biggest commodity is its reputation. It ***** that Apple allowed this kind of thing to happen, but as things stand right now, it would be a poor business decision to fix it.
So, fellow vertical line sufferers, AKA the W8 club, my advice to you is stop holding out hope that they will pay for your screen to be fixed and get it done yourself! If you do it right you can get it done for between $60-$99. Here's how I did it.
First off, know that this is a hardware problem. There is no setting in system preferences you can change that will make the lines go away. There are failing physical parts in your computer to blame and they need to be replaced.
Second, in order to keep things as cheap as possible, you are going to replace the parts. It's actually pretty easy.
Thirdly, you are going to need a whole new display. I thought maybe if I replaced the display data cable (the cable that runs from the computer under the key board to the back of the screen) it might solve the problem very cheaply, since a brand new one only costs about $9 online. I took the computer apart, replaced the cable, but the display did not change at all. So the problem is the screen, not the cable. I needed a whole new screen, however, a brand spanking new one can cost between $350-$600. So I went on eBay, typed in my computer, and looked for computers that were being sold for "parts" or "repair." These are usually much cheaper because they are not working computers, but you don't need the computer to work, you just need the display to work. If you do this, make sure you read the descriptions. If there's any mention of display problems, move on and keep looking. You don't want to replace the display only to have the lines show up all over again a few months down the line. They wont always give you the serial number, but obviously try to stay away from serial numbers that start with W8. I found a used Powerbook being sold for parts for $63. It didn't have RAM, or a Hard-drive, or screws to keep the keyboard on, but the display apparently had no issues. With shipping and handling it cost me $94 total and three days to get it. The serial number started with V7. I'm sure with a little patience and vigilance, you can find something just as cheap or even cheaper.
NOTE: Some powerbooks have High-Res display screens, so make sure you know which screen yours has so you know which to look for.
Now, how to actually replace the display. I used an awesome website called ifixit.com. They give you detailed easy-to-follow instructions with photographs. I'll let them give you the nitty gritty of how to replace the display. Here is the actual How-to guide I used:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-PowerBook-G4-Aluminum-17-Inch-1-1-67-GHz- Display/258/1
The only tools you really need are a small phillips head screwdriver and a T6 and T8 Torx screwdriver (they are starred on the end, as oppose to crossed like the end of a phillips head). They say you need a "spudger" but I didn't. You can get these at any hardware or auto-parts store. Return them when your done if you are really on a budget, but you might want to take more part from this new computer in the future, so your call. You'll need to print out the instructions first, or use another computer to follow them since you obviously can't use your Powerbook. Find a flat, well-lit work space, preferably near a TV so you don't get bored while working, and use the how-to guide to switch the old display with the new one. It only took me a couple of hours to finish the whole thing, and I didn't have to pay a repair man hundreds. My display works perfectly now! It's so nice to be have the mobility of a laptop again (especially since the computer i got off of eBay came with a battery that can actually hold a charge).
NOTE: There are a bunch of screws and a few small parts that will need to be taken out while replacing the display, and its important they all go back in their proper spots. So I highly recommend you take a long piece of tape, loop it, and stick it flat onto the side of your work space. As you take out each screw or small part, stick them in order to the tape. This way nothing gets lost and when you work backwards to put your computer back together you'll always know which screw or small part is next in line and which one the how-to guide is referring to.
I really hope this helps people with this problem. This seems to be the only solution. And for less than $100 bucks, I think its worth it, especially since you now have back up parts for any other part of your computer that might fail in the future. My disc drive stopped working recently so I'm replacing it with the one that came with the computer I got off eBay; a $90 part. I tried to make this as easy-to-follow, practical, and comprehensive as I could -- for as cheap as I could. GOOD LUCK!!!
-RI suspect not. There are long threads with hundreds of reports, most with PowerBooks whose serial numbers began with W8 (or W85). Still there is no Repair Extension Program for this issue.
At this point, your only recourse is to discuss the issue with Apple Consumer Relations at 1-800-767-2775, if you are in North America. -
OS 3.1.2 Update didn't fix the "updating library, please wait a few minutes
I was hoping that the software update would fix the "Updating library, please wait a few minutes" screen that comes up when I try to play a song on my ipod touch after syncing. Is this bizarre "updating library" delay going to be a permanent feature of the ipod touch now? Could someone from Apple please clarify if you are trying to fix this, or is this just the way it is now?
If you (Apple) aren't going fix it, I hope you make it known in your marketing for the ipod touch that you can't listen to your songs immediately. If you don't disclose this, I sure hope the Zune touch people make a big deal out of it when promoting their mp3 player. I woudn't have bought an ipod touch if I had known I had to wait 2-10 minutes to listen to a song.I suspect there's something else going on here... I'm having terrible trouble syncing films, and even tho they are clearly there, they don't seem to load in the list... I noticed that especially if I had dropped my network connection - the list would disappear (and this is on multiple touches)... It then starts to look very like my issues on Apple TV, where if it cannot verify the film back throught the network to the store, it deletes the content from your box... I suspect that each time it loads on the touch, it's doing some kind of 'legitimacy' verify, and that's what's causing the problem.... If I crash the sync just before the end, the re-index seems to work okay, but there is still that slight delay....
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Mail can't send messages: Doesn't allow fix the problem either: Help plz.
Hi all,
Mail doesn't allow me to send messages through my recent created aim.com account
I'm trying to fix the problem by changing smtp server configuration but it gives me the message:
"The servers marked with alert icons are in conflict and cannot be saved.
Two servers cannot share the same address and authentication settings.
Resolve the conflicts and try again."
There are no icons whatsoever and deleting any similar server won't take effect because Mail WON'T save the changes.
When clicking "ok" to save changes, Mail will throw the same message quoted above. So I have to click "Cancel"
Any idea to solve this issue?
Thank you.http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3234
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Will Mountain Lion fix the major Internet Sharing bug in Lion?
Does anyone know if Apple have indicated that they will be issuing a fix to the Internet Sharing bug in Lion (i.e. Internet Sharing does not work) in the new Mountain Lion?
Hmmm. Pete, suggest cease dissing people's problem with VNC in Mt Lion as "doesn't exist here" syndrome. Maybe for you, it's working just fine....for some of us...NOT.
Following several threads on issues with VNC and Lion and the vague hope that Mt Lion would fix the problem, I also upgraded to Mt Lion. Worse.
Prior to Lion, VNC worked every time with any Mac I tried, inside or outside the local network. With Lion, VNC worked correctly until around 10.7.4, then with intermittent connections (requiring restarts on the target Mac in order to connect a second time).
Now, with Mt Lion (target Mac is still on Lion and restarted), I cannot connect externally to the Lion Mac even with it being restarted (and Screen Sharing and Remote Management turned off/on as one thread suggested).
As another thread suggested, I had deleted the iCloud System Pref on both Macs while on Lion (with no effect to VNC).
While I'm sure there's a solution out there, I have yet to find it.
Thanks for any suggestions, but will someone at Apple please address this issue? -
Flash cc 2014, the mp3 that I imported won't play while I'm in the program
The audio works fine when I export the file but not while I'm in the program. I'm working in an action script on a mac book pro, and the file is an mp3. At first it worked fine but it now won't work in a new document either. I imported it to the library and the mp3 is in the same folder on my laptop as the project. I have a lip sync animation that's due in a few days and I've never used flash to do anything aside from compiling traditional animation (of the on paper variety).any advise would be much appreciated.
open the mp3 in audition and resave. that fixes most problems.
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[svn:fx-trunk] 10229: Fixes for some transform effects problems.
Revision: 10229
Author: [email protected]
Date: 2009-09-14 08:43:43 -0700 (Mon, 14 Sep 2009)
Log Message:
Fixes for some transform effects problems.
- We were not animating the postLayout properties in some cases where we should have, effectively pinning the object in place. We now animate those properties whenever applyChangesPostLayout is true.
- A copy/paste error meant that we did not animate the scaleZ property in cases where we should have.
- A problem in the transform code means that using a null transform center is not the same as a transform center which uses the transformX/Y/Z properties of the target object. We now force the creation/use of a transform center in all cases to avoid that problem.
QE notes: This breaks about a dozen tests in the transform effects area, but I believe the new results are correct and the tests/bitmaps should be changed.
Doc notes: None
Bugs: sdk-23177
Reviewer: Hans
Tests run: checkintests, Mustella transform effects
Is noteworthy for integration: No
Ticket Links:
http://bugs.adobe.com/jira/browse/sdk-23177
Modified Paths:
flex/sdk/trunk/frameworks/projects/spark/src/spark/effects/AnimateTransform.as
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