Fixing white balance when it varies during video.

Hi there, I was shooting video for a while and I think the sensor on my Canon 5D Mark II overheated and it turned the white balance from my manual setting to green (gradually). Then it turned back. This happened a few times in the video. Is there a way to correct the overall white balance by setting a degrees kalvin that is followed throughout? Help is much appreciated thanks.

Broken monitor profile, affects only Lr and other color managed applications. Run your calibrator again, or if you don't have a calibrator use sRGB for now.
Go to Control Panel > Color Management > Devices:
EDIT: unless of course you have a preset applied on import.

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Fixing white balance

How do you fix the white balance in Camera Raw by selecting an area that should be white if there are no good samples of white? Will bringing in a white swatch to white image be acceptable to white balance off?
Thanks.

Hi Stan,
You don't need a white area, if you go to http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=1350898 you will find a little tutorial on how to find a neutral color area in your picture. A bit involved, but it is very useful when there is no obvious neutral srea in your picture.
Roger

Video white balance levels not showing, so video effects and color editing won't work

I've watched white balance tutorials, and I tried clicking the dropper onto the viewer to change the color. But, in the gray box above it there are normally red green and blue lines, but I have nothing there. I think this is preventing any edits to my color balance, can anyone help?

Well, no offense, but you seriously should read the C4D help. That's normal specular shading behavior and it is uniform acroos the plane because you obviously haven't defined any scene lights and use the default viewport light. Read up on how to create materials and adjust there properties and then learn the fine art of scene lighting as well as how to use object buffers to isolate objects with multipass renders.
Mylenium

Safari flashes white boxes when loading pictures or video, distorts text

Hi,
I have Safari 3.1.2 and a lot of times when I look at a photo on a flickr page, when the photo loads it flashes these annoying white boxes everywhere. And when I watch a youtube video it will flash white sections on them. Also, when I'm scrolling through an article, the lines will double up and distort. If I restart my computer it will adjust to normal, but the after a while it will start up again. I've singled the problem down to Safari because Firefox does not have this problem. I guess I could just use Firefox and say sayonara to Safari? Any advice?

I have exactly the same problem with browsers, iPhoto, and also text breaking up when scrolling up and down (in Mail, for instance). I also have a Macbook Pro (15", 2,4ghz, GeForce 8600M graphics).
I have heard about people taking the unit back to Apple and having the graphics card replaced, and some people talk about it being a video driver issue, but this has been going on for me since at least 10.5.2 (that's when I first noticed it as a problem) and if it's a software problem it's taking a long time to fix it!

White screen when in fullscreen watching videos

when watching lower resolution youtube video in fullscreen my screen goes white! why is this? goty it yestoday brand new!

Hi Andrei1, thanks for your reply. Sorry if im not explaining
myself properly, let me start again. Im using this code in my main
source file:
import flash.system.fscommand;
fscommand("fullscreen", "true");
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stage.scaleMode = StageScaleMode.NO_SCALE;
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White Balance Plug In

Can someone advise me on a plug in for a quick method of setting white balance when you did not get footage with correct white balance? Also can you set keyframes for changing the white balance in a multi-cam clip?
This is the footage I am looking to fix - look at the change when someone turns lighting on at : 3:41
Is there anyway to recue the white balance at 1:17.
https://vimeo.com/80166468
Are there any good training videos for explaining all of this?
Thank you for your advice in advance.
Joe

http://fxfactory.com/blog/effects-2/final-cut-pro-x-white-balancer-plugin/

Sunrise/Sunset and White Balance

I have a question about overriding Automatic White Balance when photographing sunrises and sunsets. A few days ago, I got my first DSLR, an EOS 5D Mk III. I know the ISO triangle after shooting film on my Canon A-1 that I bought 34 years ago, which still works). However, this white balance thing is a fourth dimension. Films are balanced for daylight and the ISO is also dictated. For photographing a sunrise or sunset, to me, it makes sense to set the white balance to 5200 Kelvin (daylight). I got one response from a camera club member who said his photos were all in the 5000 range. Others have said "Shoot in RAW and fix it in post processing". The second response of "Fix it later" just doesn't ring my bell. What about getting it right the first time? Should I set white balance to daylight or some other setting? I can always experiment with changing white balance; after all, I'm not wasting film. Below are a series of sunrises that I took using Kodak Portra 400, -2/3 stop, on my Canon A-1. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ralphhightower/sets/72157633079358301/ Thanks, Ralph
Solved!
Go to Solution.

It might be helpful to just think of the digital camera's white balance capabilities as a built-in and very complete set of color conversion and color correction filters, such as we used to use with film. Now, for your convenience, all those filters are right there, inside the camera.... much easier to carry around and use!
If shooting during Golden Hours, the camera's Automatic White Balance (AWB) can tend to overcorrect and remove some of the lovely golden nature of the light. One solution is as others have recommended, to shoot RAW and make your adjustments later. This is no different from making the adjustments in-camera, at the time of exposure, and can make for much greater control and precision. It's not really a "fix it later" thing... It is more a matter of doing fine-tuning and optimizing the image (more on this below). RAW simply retains all the data from the original capture and is a good thing to use, anyway.
All digital cameras essentially capture a TIFF image file with a lot of proprietary data attached and an embedded "preview/review" JPEG... that's what the RAW file is. If you make JPEGs in-camera, a lot of data is thrown away, following the directions laid out by the settings in the camera. If, instead, you save the entire RAW file, you can change those directions later in post-processing... or just make a JPEG from the image "as shot", using the exact same set of instructions as were set in the camera at the time of exposure. One of the beauties of RAW is that so long as you store the original image file, you can always go back and re-process it another way, if you wish. This is particularly helpful when new to digital and uncertain about your settings. Something you might want to do is shoot RAW+JPEG initially. That way you have both the full data stored, along with the potential to make changes if you wish, plus the JPEG produced according to your camera settings. The JPEG can serve as a post-processing learning tool, using it as a point of comparison with your own RAW file conversions.... and as feedback about your camera settings. (Don't trust the image display on the camera's LCD screen... it's not calibrated and is too subject to ambient light variations. The histogram display is generally more informative, but even that is subject to the camera's settings, since it's done from the embedded JPEG and not directly from the full RAW file.)
But, I agree, it's also good to "get it right the first time". Or at least come as close as possible.
The most ideal way to do that would be to set a Custom White Balance for every shot. Use a standardized target, bathed in the same light as your subject/scene, and take a shot of it... then tell the camera to use that as reference. However, it's just not practical to do that.
Nor is it a good idea to set one particular color temp and use it for everything (i know photogs who do that and have had to work with their images.... it makes for a lot of extra work!)
Thus there are all the "presets" you can choose among, looking for one that's most appropriate for your particular situation... And there is AWB, which allows the camera to try to choose for you. Outdoors in daylight I've found Canon AWB to be pretty darned good. Shots in the shade can be a little overly cool. And indoor shots with tungsten or other artifical light are when a Custom WB is most likely to be needed.... especially with weird, uncalibrated lighting such as sodium vapor and mercury vapor lamps.
To set an accurate Custom WB, get yourself a gray card or similar (I use Lastolite EZ Balance targets, which are sort of like a foldable/flexible gray card). This also can be helpful arriving at an accurately metered exposures. Something else I use in certain circumstances are Warm Cards... these have slight tints that "fool" the camera into slightly tinting the image.... a light blue/cyan target will cause the camera to render a slightly warm color balance. Warm Cards would be particularly helpful shooting during the Golden Hours, if wanting to retain some of the warmth of the light at those times of day. It's more accurate doing this than simply manually setting a particular color temp, although that's possible too.
And, yes, you should spend some time getting to know how your camera handles color. Each model can be a bit different. You'd do well to shoot a bunch of test shots with AWB, Custom WB and, if you wish, the various presets... to see how they perform.
Of course, you don't always have time to think about or make settings... sometimes to catch fleeting light you have to run to catch an image quickly, shoot RAW and "fix it later" in post-processing!
If you haven't already done so, you might want to calibrate your computer monitor. As concerned as you are about rendering accurate color or manipulating it the way you want it, in case you are unaware of it... your computer monitor is lying to you. All computer monitors are different, none are really very accurate and virtually all are way too bright. If you make prints using an uncalibrated monitor, you will usually find them coming out too dark. This is because an overly bright monitor causes you to adjust the image too dark. If you don't already have them, you might want to get computer calibration software and hardware and use them regularly (about once every month or two, usually... monitors change over time and with use).
The way the calibration device works is by first running a test on your particular monitor, and then providing a profile that the computer will use when rendering images on the display. Some of the more sophisticated calibration suites can also be used to develop printing profiles (unique for each ink/paper/printer combination), projectors and other viewing devices. (I use a Datacolor Spyder, one of several different calibration devices/softwares available).
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Correcting White Balance with no white in shot

Does anyone have any tips for correcting white balance when the footage has no white objects to act as a reference? This was the classic mistake of shooting outdoors with an indoor setting. We were rushing to utilise a gap in the rain!
Also, is there any way to tell Premiere how to correct WB via a sort of colour matching, by pointing it towards a correctly white balanced still of the scene?
Thanks
Davyd

This is a really tricky thing. There's a lot of ways to approach it. I had similar problems with a WB correction mismatch between presets on my 7D and 70D. No white in either shot.
I exported a few frames in to PS first to get a rough idea with what I was dealing with.
Use the Info window to check something grey.
Alternately, if there is nothing grey, you can use skin tone patches. This is a common tool used by skin retouchers in PS. Grab a small sample or two from the desired skin tones, either from a 5x5 grab with the eyedropper or just grabbing a small section with the lasso tool and Gaussian Blurring that to heck and back. Once you get a bit of a palette of skin tones you like, you can use that as a reference for your work with the Fast Color Corrector.
To be honest, I feel the FCC is a little underpowered and I wish I had my AAVC 6 Channel HSL tool from Vegas when color correcting.
As a Photoshop geek, I am a little uncomfortable with the video color correction toolset.
To export a frame, click on the viewing panel and hit Ctrl-Shift-E.
Try opening the frames in Adobe Camera Raw and you can get some temp and tint values that can also help you with your Prem Pro toolset.
Remember to watch out for channel clipping when making dramatic changes in WB.

808 flashlight = white balance red?

Dear friends,
I just buy a pureview 808. When I take photo indoor with daylight lamp at night, the flashlight is on. However, the photo is incredibly a red one, nothing like the scene. I believe it is a wrong white balance. I do not find an option for "flash light" in the white balance selections. All options result in a red colored photo with the coldest one (bluest one) as weaker.
Any walkthrough or walk arounds?
Thank you!

Cheers for replying
Being a long term DLSR photographer I always use creative mode and started out using AWB. Even in AWB mode there shouldn't be so much variation as in my sample pics, so I decided to use fixed white balance with the intent of forcing the colour balance ot be the same. but you're right, often with a dynamic scene there's not time or place to mess about trying different settings to correct waht a fixed AWB shoudl get right in the first place
I think there's a bug, but it's not an easy thing to get manufacturers to always admit this. I will soon twitter Damian Dinning, the guy who was heavily involved with the development of the 808's camera and see if he has some comment.
I appreciate the 808 is the first Pureview model, but that shouldn't mean a lack of after-release updates to fix problems.
Another weird scarnio I've come across is that when setting manual ISO to something higher in order to force a faster shutter speed, the 808 still choose s toexpose with lower shutter speeds. For example on my DSLRs if I use auto mode and it selects something like. ISO 100 / 1/50s. For the same scene, if I preset ISO400 the speed jumps to 1/200s as it should. This doesn't happen on the 808. The speedwill remain at 1/50 on many shots, and unwanted motion blur remains
There's some weird stuff going on
When the 808 getr's it right it takes amazing pics for a phone, and in fact that's the reason I bought it. I still ahven't put a SIM card in it :

JPEG and White Balance

When Aperture imports JPEGs it offers the same white balance options as it does for RAW files.
My understandiing from using Lightroom which does not use temperature in it's white balance Develop module for JPEGs, is that there is no data associated with a JPEG that tells the program where to start with white balance.
I'm curious as to what assumptions Aperture makes with regard to white balance when importing JPEGs and what goes on in the background as you change the temperature with a JPEG.
Thank you.

Aperture assigns a temperature of 5000k to all jpg and tif files.
I don't know what goes on in the background but the temperature changes are useful, if not correct.
Cheers,
Terry

Bug Fix for White Balance Issue (When ?)

Dear Apple:
When can users expect a patch for the bug that "crept" into Aperture late in the development cycle that seriously effects the white balance tool?
This bug is obviously a major concern and issue for most professional-level photographers; and, quite frankly, prevents Aperture from being used in a professional capacity with regard to RAW decoding.
Cheers

Excuse me, John:
But, quite frankly I don't think you are in any position to tell the users of this form how they should feel. Most users, who happen to be high-end prosumers or professionals such as myself, have paid a great deal of money on a piece of software that was supposed to live up to certain, basic expectations. Unfortunately, that software did not. As such it cannot be used in a professional environment.
Subsequently, an update was provided to address all the concerns that users expressed. Unfortunately, that update created a major issue with regard to the white balance of RAW images. Yet again, this expensive piece of software is nearly useless in a professional environment.
Let me ask you this: "if you were a gardner and paid several hundred dollars for a lawn mower, only to discover that it cut your clients' grass unevenly, would you continue to use it? Would you continue to be patient after taking it into the repair shop only to have it still screw up your lawns? Would you not be on the phone with the repair shop constantly until it was fixed?"
Unfortunately, Aperture is a good idea that has a flawed implementation and that NEEDS to be addressed! So, I will continue to ask Joe and Steve and the others at Apple when will this piece of software actually live up to the expectations set forth by the company that produced it!

Mavericks: white balance changes when video plays

Hi There,
I have an issue that whenever video is playing (YouTube, Vimeo, Final Cut, Premier Pro) my monitor's white balance will change to a cooler temperature after 2 or 3 seconds.
But weirdly, only the white balance on the video changes - nothing else on screen changes - setup is:
15" MBP Retina
NVIDIA Descret graphics
Dell U2713H
I initially had to run a few terminal commands to force the MBP to recognice the Dell as a monitor (http://embdev.net/topic/284710#3567172) so don't know if this is part of the issue?
But this doesn't happen with the monitor at home - same MBP and monitor model.
I can't work out of this is the monitor, video card or the OS that's doing this - has anyone else seen this?
CHeers
Ben

I'd checked several settings on the Dell but just found another one: "Smart Movie Enhance" - turning this off fixed the issue.
>Menu >Display Settings >Smart Video Enhance> Off
It seems professional monitors are becoming more like TVs - after turnning off all the picture enhancing tech on our new Sony TV, movies finally looked cinematic and not like 90s video!

I have iMove 11 and photos turn very dark when I drag them into the project. Changing colour white balance does not fix the problem.

I have iMove 11 and photos turn very dark when I drag them into the project. Changing colour white balance does not fix the problem.

Thanks for your no help line.

Iso, Shutter Speed, Aperture, White balance for music videos or film?

Hello everyone. I just started making music videos. I just want some tips or can someone direct me to a good guide for music videos. I know the basics of iso, shutter speed, and aperture already. I read some guides and so far I know I gotta put my shutter at 1/50 or if i'm recording something at high speed, i increase it. is it so? Also, I always put my aperture at the lowest. I have a Canon T2i and Canon lenses 50 f/1.8 and kit lens. I always put my aperture at the lowest 3.5(kit lens) or 1.8. The tricky part is the ISO. I don't know where to put my ISO. I know the lowest ISO is good but sometimes the video looks dark. Do I fix this in video editing programs? Like should I always stay at ISO 100? What about white balance? I use Final Cut 7.
Also, what about during the day and night? Indoors? etc I also have a cheap LED lights.

your questions are about the very basics of photography.
I would consider to buy a book, which explains photography 'from the ground' ("... for dummies.." not meant as an offence!)
in short:
a scenery offers a defined amount of light.
Your cameras 'film' aka sensor, needs a defined amount of light to deliver a picture.
So, on recoprding, you have to control the amount of light, and the controls are:
aperture - opened or closed
shutter - shorter or longer
speed (ISO) - higher or lower.
Imagine the light as a stream of tiny balls, coming from your scenery: a bigger hole = aperture lets more balls into the cam. A shorter shutter speed reduces the amount of balls. And a higher ISO catches more balls than a lower. ..
Understanding that, you realize that those parameters are crosswise-related: an open aperture + a shorter shutter speed results in the same amount of light on the sensor as a closed aperture and a longer shutter speed.
If the amount of light is still too much, lower the sensitivity = ISO.
If the amount of light is too little, open the aperture, or use a longer shutter speed or raise the sensitivity.
When you set one or two parameters in this equation, you have to adjust the other ones: Video-makers start with the shutter speed, usually set to 1/2 of frame-rate = 1/50 - 1/60 - why? Because it allows a nice looking 'smear' aka motion-blur aka 'film look'.
Now, with a given speed, you can conrtol teh amount of light for the sensor only by aparture; and when you reach limits, by setting ISO.
When you understood this BY PRACTICING, you're next step is the concept of 'shallow focus'/depth of field. And when you understood this BY PRACTICING, you'll will understand the need of Neutral Densitity Filters for movie-makers...
But first things first: buy a book; read your cam's amnual; practice the settings and watch carefully the different results, diff. settings result.
... and it's really just about basics - independently of your device and/or your software.
None of the things mentioned above can be done or 'fixed' in post... (basically...)
happy movie making!

Setting and holding White balance during tethered shooting

I came to Apeture from Capture One Pro. I used Capture when working for a photo studio, when I started shooting for myself I went with the much more affordable Apeture. I have been very happy with the workflow, but Apeture seems to be missing one of most basic settings for tethered shooting, setting and maintaining custom gray balance. I realize that I can shoot a frame with a gray card and white balance that frame, but the following frames revert to the pre-whitebalanced color settings. In Capture One, I would balance my first frame to a gray card, even add a manual tweek, and all subsequent frames would follow the new color settings. Perhaps there is a setting I have missed, some sort of automatic inheriting of the last frames adjustments. I realize that it is easy enough to adjust my color settings after the fact, but my color is off during shooting, and clients are not always able to envision the finished product. I really hope I'm missing something, because it's the most important feature to me for shooting tethered, right after the ability to shoot tethered.

It forces this yucky uber warm white balance. Just to make sure it was not shot that way, I then selected "as shot". It immediatly went to the color of the shoot and looks great.
When you select 'As Shot' do the Temp and Tint settings change? How about other settings, do any of them change? Just trying to determine what is actually causing the color change.
Did you try creating a new preset with the same settings, and see how it behaves when you uncheck White Balance? The original preset file may have been corrupted (i.e. damaged) and resaves are not fixing it. If this doesn't resolve the problem then it is likely a bug with tethered mode operation. Please let us know.

Fixing white balance when it varies during video.

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