Focus lock

I have a Canon 1100D.
I would like to know if 'focus lock' is possible in all modes of exposure of this model, whether in Basic zone or in Creative zone.

The exception here is that if the camera is using the "AI Servo" focus mode then the camera will continuously attempt to track focus for moving subjects.  In such a situation the focus wont "lock" but that's because you've asked to the focus system to continuously track and update focus on your selected AF point.
Another option is to enable back-button focus.  This removes the focus feature from the shutter button and moves it to a button on the back (on the T3 I believe it uses the asterisk [*] button.)  When you enable this feature, the camera will ONLY adjust focus when you press that button.
There are some YouTube videos explaining how to enable this mode (it is a custom function).
Many sports photographers like that mode because they can track an athlete running down the field while they continually hold the back-button to maintain focus.  However... if they see someone about to pop in front of the camera and they do not want the camera to re-focus on the distraction walking in front of the camera... all they have to do is release the back-button while they wait for them to pass by ... then resume focus on their athlete by pressing the button again.  Typically in that short amount of time the athelete will not have moved far enough to fall out of the depth of field.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Similar Messages

  • Focus locking

    Hi.
    I need to use focus locking in my application -- a field should not lose focus until it receives permission from a remote object. I could probably setFocusable(false) all fields expect the focused one, but I do not find it a very good solution. Can anyone suggest another way of doing it?
    (i can rewrite FocusTraversalPolicy, but that would affect keyboard events only. Unfortunately most of the focusing is performed by mouse actions)

    Maybe you can try this
    component.addFocusListener(new FocusAdapter(){
    public void focusLost(FocusEvent e){
    SwingUtilities.invokeLater(new Runnable(){
    public void run(){
    component.requestFocus();
    Just a guessthis thread may be quite old, but thanks for the post, it helped me on my project. thank you

  • Why are some of my photos tack sharp while others in the same series are out of focus?

    My camera is a Canon Rebel XS (dSLR) and I primarily use the 50mm f/1.8 lens. 
    I shoot in Manual Mode with Autofocus ON.
    I am having difficulty with my photos coming out incositant - some are out of focus, while others in the same series (taken a moment apart) are tack sharp.
    I've attached two examples - one of the out-of-focus image, the other sharp images (both have been blown up).
    It is not camera shake and my settings are identical for both photos. (ISO 200 | f/4.5 | 1/100sec in this instance.)
    This has become such a problem that I find myself needing to take 10x more photos of the same subject/pose in order to hopefully get one sharp image from the series.
    I have asked multiple people about this problem (though I have yet to take my camera and lens to a shop due to lack of funds) and no one has any idea of either what I'm talking about or what the problem could be.
    I would appreciate your thoughts and help!
    Thank you! 
    Fuzzy/Out of Focus:
    Sharp:

    This new pair of images does not look like camera motion -- this one looks like it missed focus.
    If you use the included Canon Digital Photo Professional that came with your camera, you can right-click an image and tell it show you the focus point which were used (the camera wont know if you did a focus-and-recompose technique... so if you recompose after locking focus then the focus points indicated by DPP wouldn't be meaningful). But I bring this up because it would allow you to determine which focus point the camera claims it used.
    I think you mentinoned that you used "One Shot" focus mode -- not AI Servo. One Shot should block the camera from taking the shot until it thinks it confirmed focus-lock on the selected AF point (or on at least one AF point it you allow the camera to pick from any of its available focus points.) In AI Servo the camera WILL take the shot when you fully press the button -- whether it successfully locked focus or not.
    That brings us back to the subject of the focus test.
    If you do not own a commercial chart, then you may want to download one from the Internet and print it. Here's a good site: http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart
    Print the chart and follow the instructions. I deliberately run the camera out of focus to nearest focus distance and force the camera to re-focus and shoot... and I repeat this at least a half-dozen times. I then repeat... but this time deliberately run the camera out of focus to infinity before forcing the camera to focus and take the shot.
    Track each shot as you do the focus test. You may see a pattern emerge (e.g. perhaps it nails focus when going in one direction to find focus... but misses in another, etc.) Such a pattern might indicate the lens is getting sloppy and needs service (it's usually not worth servicing the 50mm f/1.8 due to it's low cost.) The USM and STM lenses allow full-time manual focus override (even if the lens is auto-focusing). The basic auto-focus motor lenses (like the 50mm f/1.8) do not support this and forcing manual focus without disengaging the focus system can be harmful.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Flash doesn't always prevent HTML from getting input events even if it has focus

    Hi,
    There's been two such problems for some time now.
    - Take any HTML page with enough content to be able to scroll down. Add an SWF in there, for example that page could be a Flash tutorial and the SWF illustrates one of its steps.
    If that SWF makes use of the mouse wheel, for instance to zoom in or whatever, it does receive the event provided it has focus but the HTML page ALSO does. So the page scrolls down and the SWF vanishes from view (while it zooms in its own content ).
    - There is a similar (worse) issue with Firefox "Search as you type" feature (Firefox > Options > Advanced > General > Search as you type checkbox). Sometimes, mostly with the letter A it seems, when you try to for instance move a character in Flash with WASD, Firefox will also trigger the Search as you type box, which steals focus from Flash. Pretty bad when you're gaming.
    Are you aware of these bugs ? Didn't find mention of them. Can they be fixed pretty please ?
    Thanks.

    Ok
    It's great that you guys are in close contact. Mozilla has been working a LOT on JS speed these past few years. In early days I think they took hints from you, but now the reverse could apply, you could maybe use Mozilla's work on JS to fasten AS3 ?
    Anyway! So I will show only the find as you type issue to Mozilla then, although they will have to wait a week because I can't spend more time dealing with Bugzilla right now, I made the case reproducible and that will be enough till next week
    So here is how you might be able to reproduce it:
    - Enable Firefox find as you type (FayT)
    - Open the HTML page in this zip and give focus to the game
    - Play around a few seconds (WASD, left click to shoot, right click to change weapon, target enemies with cursor position relative to character)
    - "Accidentally" click outside of the game area (which means inside the HTML page) while you're walking with WASD
    - FayT is triggered as expected. (Even though this can be an issue if the page is scrollable and FayT scrolls the game away from view)
    - Click inside the game ONCE
    - Either wait or play around some more, but do not click again
    - Once the search bar disappears, you lose focus. Pressing keys either has no effect or triggers FayT again.
    Expected: The game keeps focus when search bar disappears.
    Notes:
    - There are other, likely similar methods to reproduce this
    - Clicking a second time within the SWF prevents the focus issue to happen (I think. Maybe not with all methods ?)
    - It works with other HTML pages and other SWFs. You should be able to trigger the bug even with a barebones SWF that only registers key strokes, I think.
    - I didn't give you the step by step way to have focus locked in the SWF instead of away from it, but it should be similar. 2 clicks outside might fix it. Plus, I can't see a situation where this "reverse bug" would be annoying for the user.

  • N95 - Does your camera clicks when auto focus (hal...

    N95 - Does your camera clicks when auto focus (half-pressed)?
    When i press the camera button half way through it makes a noticeable "click" noise after locking on an object.
    It doesn't make the clicking noise when i press the camera button one time without manually auto focus.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks

    Yep, exactly that.
    Green - Focus lock acheived - OK to take picture and it should come out in focus.
    Red - No Focus lock - will still take a shot if you fully press shutter button though.Message Edited by luckieb on 27-Apr-200708:37 PM

  • Show focus points - not showing...

    I'm shooting with a 1D Mark III, and when I select "show focus points" not seeing the focus points...
    Is this supposed to actually show where my focus point was on the shot(s)
    That would be very helpful. What am I doing wrong?

    Allan Eckert wrote:
    I don't know what Kirby is talking about. He seems to be answering someone else's question.
    It reads pretty clearly to me.
    The camera has a sensor.  Additionally, it has an array of focus-sensors that are fixed in position relative to the main sensor.  Which of these focus-sensors was used by the auto-focus system to determine the focusing distance is what is displayed by the feature under discussion.
    The point I'm trying to make is that the "focus point" in the discussion refers to which exact focus-sensors in the camera were used to achieve auto-focus.  Unless your camera and your subject did not move between the time of focus-lock and the time of exposure, there will not be an exact correspondence between the spot on the sensor that is associated with that focus and what is depicted under that spot in the image. 
    In my practice, I find it much more awkward and time-consuming to select a focus point while the shot is framed than it is to focus with the central cross-type focus-sensors, lock focus, and then frame the exposure.  So for me -- and I think many others -- knowing which focus-sensor was used by the auto-focus system doesn't tell me anything:  there is no correspondence between the focus-sensor used and the image.
    In the linked blog post, the author shows an image with the selected focus-sensor super-imposed over the model's upper eyelid.  IME, it is assuming too much to assume that the autofocus system used that spot on the model's face when it determined the focusing distance.
    There are programs that will analyze the actual image and attempt to show what parts of the image are in sharpest focus.  Aperture does not do that.
    This is -- as I indicated -- tangent to the OP's question.  But the way s/he worded the question made me think that s/he things there is a certain one-to-one correspondence between the focusing-sensor used and the objects depicted under that focusing-sensor when it is superimposed over the image.  There is not.  I found that important to know, and so I pass it along.

  • Is there a fix for 5d ii focus issue

    Hello,  I just purchased the 5Dii used but the owner said the camera was working perfectly. I notice that when I take photos the photos do not look sharp. I am shooting in raw and using fast enough settings that they should be sharp. I tried different lenses and a tripod still same results when viewed at 100%. So I have been reading about the 5d ii having focus issues and was wondering if there is a fix to this problem? Also, I read that with 21 mp the photos won't look sharp in the view finder or when viewed at 100% has anyone else heard this?  Any suggestions would be helpful. I am thinking I need to return the item which is a shame, I was so excited to get the 5d ii and very disappointed to be having this issue.  

    I don't suggest using the viewfinder to judge quality of photos -- it's too small.  
    There are no focus "issues" with a 5D II -- it's an excellent camera.  It doesn't have the advanced focus system of the 5D III but if the focus points on your 5D II tell you that something is correctly focused then it should be correctly focused.
    There are NUMEROUS things that can cause problems (none of which are defects.)
    1)  If you allow the camera to auto-select it's focus point, remember that the camera will always pick the focus point which can lock focus at the closest focusing distance.  Suppose you're taking a photo of someone's face, but on the side of the frame there's a bush -- and that push is in far enough that one of the focus points is on the bush.  The camera will focus on the bush and NOT on your subject's face.  Usually you will want the camera to focus on the nearest subject, but when shooting shots with distracting elements in the frame which are closer then your intended subject, you need to pick the focus point you want the camera to use rather than allow it to auto-select the point.
    2)  If focusing at a particularly low focal ratio (especially at close distances) the depth of field can get REALLY thin.  If you want focus on your subject's eyes -- you will need to carefully position the focus point and lock focus on your subject's eyes -- otherwise you may end up getting a focus lock on their nose (as an example) and the eyes will be slightly soft.
    3)  In the default "one shot" mode, the camera will focus prior to taking the shot.  When focus lock is achieved the camera will stop adjusting focus.  If either you or your subject move after that point, the camera will NOT re-adjust -- you'll get  a soft shot.  With moderate f-stops usually a small movement wont change focus distance enough to matter -- this is mostly an issue at shallow f-stops.  But if shooting action where you KNOW your subject is moving and focus distance is changing, you need to use the "AI Servo" mode which continuosly updates focus.
    4)  Your 5D II allows you to adjust the focus accuracy of a lens.  Some lenses will routinely focus just slightly in front or behind your intended focus distance.  When you detect that you have a lens that does this, the camera can compensate.  This adjustment requires that you set up an accurate focus test to determine if an adjustment is needed and how much.  Do not attempt to make an adjustment by using regular every-day shots... use a carefully controlled focus target, tripod, etc.  There's a procedure for doing this.
    5)  If you suspect inaccuracy with focus points (and you really need to be careful to use controlled circumstances before arriving at such a conclusion) you can test by switching to "live view" mode to see if you get different results.  Live view mode does not use the phase-detect auto-focus points... it uses contrast-detection focus instead.  Contrast detection is slower but in theory should be able to provide more accurate focus as long as you have a subject with some decent contrast.  If live view is consistently outperforming the standard phase-detect AF mode then you may need to perform focus adjustment on your camera (this is specific to each lens you own... this is because each lens can behave differently.)
    Lastly... your camera records which AF points were used when it takes a photo.  This data can be displayed IF you use the Canon EOS Utility (which should have come with your camera).  It'll put the familiar focus array overlaying your photo and highlight the active point(s).  Just be aware that if you did a "focus and recompose" that the camera is going to report which focus point was used to lock focus but wouldn't know you recomposed the shot.  If you're not recomposing and your subject distance wasn't changing then the utility should be accurate.
    Incidentally, Apple's "Aperture" software also allows you to view the Canon focus point data.  As far as I'm aware, this is not available in Lightroom or Photoshop.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • I'm having trouble with my shutter locking up.

    I'm know cameras pretty well...previous post discussed setting but I know what setting & lighting conditions to use. Basically the shutter closes & won't open back up or release unless I turn the camera off & back on. I think I've pinpointed it to be happening when I'm zooming in or out with my lens & trying focus. This is not good seeing as I do mostly sports photography! Asking if you think this is a camera/lens flaw or operated error. I'm use to my Nikon & never had this problem before....and anyone else I talk to loves their Canon. Help!

    If the camera has a "focus lock" or "focus trap" setting, you must turn it off. I don't know if a T3 has that feature, though.
    If the sports involve any sort of movement, you have to use AI Servo focus, not One Shot. One Shot is only for stationary subjects. In One Shot mode, as soon as focus is achieved, auto focus stops and locks. If a subject is moving, it will go out of focus and One Shot cannot correct for that. AI Servo, on the other hand, focuses continuously, as long as you keep the shutter button half-pressed and an active AF point on the subject you want focused. It never stops and locks, the way One Shot does.
    In order to better understand the AF system of Canon cameras, I recommend viewing three half hour videos on YouTube, beginning with this one.  These videos cover a variety of Canon camera models and there are some differences between them, but you will likely find info relevant to your camera.
    Besides focus, there are other possiblities... However, first thing to note is that the shutter doesn't close when you press the shutter release button, it opens. The shutter is normally closed, only opens momentarily to make the exposure. If you are seeing the viewfinder go dark (which is due to the mirror flipping up, not because "the shutter is closing") and no image is being taken, there are a couple things to check....
    1. Do you have "mirror lockup" engaged? This feature is on most Canon cameras I'm aware of and is turned on in the menu. It's used to flip the mirror up in advance of taking a longer exposure, where the vibration of the mirror "slap" might cause shake blur in the image. Once it's engaged, you press the shutter release once to raise the mirror, then a second time to take the image.
    2. Have you accidentally put the camera into Live View mode? This lifts the mirror immediately and what's being seen  via the lens is then displayed on the camera's rear LCD screen, real time. Accidentally starting Video recording acts similarly.
    3. Long exposure noise reduction is another feature that can be enabled or disabled on many Canon. It doesn't sound as if you are using long exposures, however just so you know, when LENR is on, the camera actually takes two images. First is the long one you set up, the second is equal length but with the shutter closed... a "dark image" that's used to identify noise to be deducted from the first image. Problem is, if you don't realize what's happening and cancel the second image (by turning off the camera, for example), neither the second or first images are saved. So you end up wondering what happened to your shot. But, again, this is not likely to be what you are encountering, because it sounds as if you are shooting in good light and using fast shutter speeds where LENR wouldn't occur, even if it's turned on.  
    I wouldn't worry about using higher ISO... 400 is about the lowest I use with sports shooting, unless I am going for slow shutter speeds and "action blur" effects. You should try 800 and even 1600. If shooting in the shade, I'll sometimes use 1600 even in broad daylight.
    I would steer clear of Full Auto and Sports modes. Instead I'd suggest using P or, even better, Tv. These are still full auto exposure modes, but they don't impose other limitations on you (such as forcing you to shoot JPEGs instead of RAW files, and/or limiting the focus modes you can select).
    Hope this helps!
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

  • Canon 5d Mark III. I am using a 50mm 1.2 L Lens and cannot achieve focus

    I just bought a Mark III.  I could not achieve focus.  I used the microadjustment dial, and had to adjust it all the way to -20 to get it to focus, however that only works for objects approximately 8 feet and closer.  With anything further away I cannot achieve focus with this setting and have to erase the microadjustment.  This doesn't make sense and I cannot be constantly checking my focus and readjusting the microadjustment when I am shooting a session.  

    Well, the 50mm 1.2 L is a bit notorious for focusing issues. However, the 5D mk III works very well with it.
    On a prime lens you should not have to set different micro adjustments for different camera to subject distance.
    Needing to use the micro adjustment function is very helpful and there is no cause to worry if a lens and camera body combination require micro adjustment for optimal focusing, but if you need to go all the way to -20, it is probably time to send the body and lens to Canon for calibration/adjustment. If it is new, you should be able to get this done at no charge to you. Call before you send your equipment.
    Realize that the depth of field at f1.2 is VERY small - at 3 feet the DOF is about 3/4 of an INCH. At 11 feet the DOF is about a foot. But if your 5D will not show a focus lock-on, then there is something wrong with either the body or lens. Do other lenses work OK? Do you have another body to try the lens on? (maybe you can borrow from someone local).
    More information may help us help with your problem.
    Jim

  • 5d mark 1 focus issues

    i am having critical focus issues with my eos 5d mark 1 in soft light without contrast.  i have the problem with all of my l series lenses.  i get a confirmation beep with the autofocus when the square i have enabled gets focus lock; however, the resluting photograph is focused at least 1-2 feet in back of where it should be.  is it possible that my mirror is out of alignment?  has anyone else had this problem?

    Have you tried using just the single center AF point in those conditions? That's the way most seem to get the best results on the forums I read. (any it applies to most Canon bodies up to the D3 / 1Dx.). I rarely shoot in low light so can't say how my cameras do, but I read a lot of messages asking for a better AF in the next  generation of whatever body they have.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Maintaing Focus Video on Elph 130IS

    I primarily use my Canon PowerShot Elph 130IS for taking videos of the products I design and sell on the Internet.  The subject of my videos are R/C Gliders known as "Slope Planes."  These planes are usually flown at the top of a hill where the glider can ride uplifting winds.
    My problem is that I have yet to have found the right combination of settings that allow the glider to stay in focus.  I would say that around 30% of my videos are out of focus.  I'm able to edit out the out of focus parts to make decent video, but it is still very frustrating because some of my best aerobatic moves are lost to editing because they are out of focus.  
    I have tried just about everything to include "Program Mode" and set the focus to Infinity...not much if any difference.  
    I have a feeling that it has something to do with tracking in that it seems to go out of focus when the glider changes distances from the camera.  
    I would love to know if it is possible to set up the camera in such a way that it maintains focus no matter how close the glider is or how far away it is.
    Here is a finished example of what I use my camera for in my business...the camera is basically strapped to my forehead.
    https://vimeo.com/44354738
    Thanks in advance.
    -MacPaige

    Hi Paige after looking at the available focus settings/options for that model camera for movies I think I see your dilemma. Unfortunately while taking movies you do not have the option of using say Servo AF which continuosly maintains the focus. Also it looks to me that setting th focus to infinity is only available when shooting still images not movies on your model camera so it has no effect. The best options for you with that camera for movies from what I see is to be sure your AF Frame Size is set to Normal and not Small and Continuos Focus is set to on. Also try with Image Stabilization set to Continous as well as Off for your application.
    I assume you want to focus at varying distances, if you want to focus or focusing at a certain distance will work better for you then you can try to use the AF focus lock option.
    Hang in there though there are others who will also chime in with advice for you too. 
    By the way what your doing sounds pretty cool !!
    John

  • Tracking focus

    Hi all,
    I have a few questions
    1. I have been reading the java tutorials on tracking multiple components focus and would like to know which method is best to track the focus... the tutorial reads
    "if you need to track the focus only on specific components, it may make sense to implement a focus event listener . If a focus listener isn't appropriate, you can instead register a PropertyChangeListener on the KeyboardFocusManager."
    In my situation I need at all times to know which field the focus is currently on so I have implemented a focuslistener and added listeners on all components... this allows me to update the status bar with a message from the current component.
    2 What difference would a propertyChangeListener implementation make / or should I say would it be a better approach??
    My implementation uses input verifiers on most fields and would like to clear my status message. The sequence of events is as follows. The user initially has focus on the first field, the focus is gained and my status bar displays a note, then the user enters an invalid value the focus locks and the status message is updated.
    3 this all works fine but I would like to capture the backspace keystroke which will allow me to clear the status message before the input verifier makes its next check
    4. I would also like to map the cursor keys and enter keys to the forward and backward traversal policy ... what is the best approach for this task.
    I am quite new to the java language and would like to gain best practises experinces/design patterns to use in the java GUI/swing applications.
    I look forward to the responces of the collective.

    2 What difference would a propertyChangeListener implementation
    make / or should I say would it be a better approach??When you use a FocusListener you add the listener to each component, which means you can pick and choose the components you want to support.
    You add the listener to the KeyboardFocusManager and it works for all components in the application (of course this can also be a drawback). So you would probably want to install the listener when a form (dialog) is activated and then remove the listener when the form is deactivated so its not in effect for the entire application.
    I would like to capture the backspace keystroke which will allow me to clear the status message This doesn't make any sense to me. The normal flow would be:
    a) tab to a component
    b) focus gained so message is displayed in status area
    c) enter data
    d) tab to next field
    - if data is valid focus is gained and message is updated
    - if data is invalid error message is displayed and focus stays on the component. Fix the error then tab to next component. Message is reset on focus gained.
    What does the backspace key have to do with clearing the status message?
    would also like to map the cursor keys and bad idea. How does the user move from character to character in the text field if the right/left arrow keys to an automatic tab?
    enter keys to the forward and backward traversal policy ... The Swing tutorial on [url http://java.sun.com/docs/books/tutorial/uiswing/misc/focus.html]How to Use the Focus Subsytem shows you how to do this.

  • HTC One - Camera Not Focusing

    My camera is not focusing and when I push on the screen, it says "AUTO EXPOSURE/AUTO FOCUS LOCKED".  With that, the screen does not move around as you move the phone around and you can't see what your taking a picture of.  When I switch to video, it does move as you move the phone and is fine..but camera is not.  ANY IDEA WHAT IS GOING ON?

        Let's make sure we get your camera focused, lala1229! How long has this been going on? Is your software up to date? Do you have any casing or protection that may be blocking your camera? Please share details.
    AndreaS_VZW
    Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport

  • No red focus confirmation light on my 3 month old 60D. Checked customs functions, HELP

    Hi guys. Title pretty much says it all. Picked my 60D up today and noticed that it will focus (I get the beep), but no focus confirmation (the red square) through the viewfinder. I have tripled checked all settings, cleared custom functions, made sure my CfN III was set to 0 or ON. I'm in one shot mode, using autofocus. PLEASE HELP! Is there a such thing as AF-OFF? I saw this mentioned elsewhere but not on my 60D menus. The photos seem sharp and in focus, just no confirmation for me on the viewfinder. Any advice??

    It sounds like you've hit all the major things to check:
    In AI Servo mode the AF point will never flash to confirm a focus lock like it will in One Shot mode -- AI Servo mode is continuously focusing.
    C Fn. III -3 (Superimposed Display) needs to be set to '0' (on) which is the default.
    The beep and the red-light are normally tied together (unless you disable the beeping).  If you get a beep, the selected AF point will normally flash at the same time.  e.g. if you were in "AI Servo" mode (instead of "One Shot" mode) then you would not get an audible beep or the red AF point flash to indicate which point is focused.  The fact that you get the beep indicates you are in the right mode and it's confirming... but you should ALSO get the red flash unless you disabled it via C Fn. III -3 set to 1.  
    You could try clearing all custom functions and resetting the camera back to factory default state, but if that doesn't work, I suspect it needs service.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • My iPhone 6+ camera wont focus at all

    Hi all, I've been having more of a recent issue with my iPhone 6+'s camera. It seems to have its focus stuck on only things up close. I bought it back in November, and I dropped it a few days after I got it, There are no cracks on the display, but a few are on the top corners. After that, I got a case, and its camera has still worked flawlessly. But maybe a few weeks ago this issue started, without any drops I can remember occurring. I have already tried the following:
    Flicking the camera screen
    Tapping both the top and sides of the phone near the camera
    Assuring HDR was disabled
    Assuring Focus Lock was disabled
    I've tried cleaning my camera screen multiple times
    I've checked for specks of dust, I cant see any
    And no, this is not the OIS issue that makes the image resemble a fish tank
    My issue is, I can't exactly get a new one. Seeing as I have a few MINOR cracks in the top corner of my glass, T-mobile being the poor service providers that they are, wont replace it without a $150 broken phone charge. Does anyone think the apple store would give me better luck? Also does anyone know of a solution? Thanks!

    Obviously that is true, but I don't recall one incident of recently dropping the phone and instantly noticing a bad camera image. I also have an otterbox on it, which should protect the lens completely and dampen vibration from dropping the phone. Additionally, there are no evident scratches on the sapphire coating.

Maybe you are looking for