Gray Screen After Erasing Harddrive & Resetting NVRAM/PRAM (Clean Install)

I have a mid-2011 iMac (with Mavericks OS), and am doing a clean install before giving my computer to a relative. I performed a secure erase of my entire harddrive (using disk utility), reset the NVRAM / PRAM (but it only chimes once even after I tried several times), and now I get the grey screen even when I try to boot from CD, safe boot, or any other commands. I can't even get back into the disk utility. Can someone please help?
On a side note, I have the install DVD in the DVD drive and I can't get that out.

Thanks for the quick reply.
I am trying to install from the original DVD (which is the DVD that is currently in the drive), but I am not able to boot from it even if I hold down "C" when rebooting the computer. Instead, when I hold down "C" it just shows the gray screen with the "Apple" icon. When I let go of the "C" key, it goes shows the "No" Symbol and doesn't do anything.

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Install Mavericks, Lion/Mountain Lion Using Internet Recovery
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
Boot to the Internet Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND-OPTION- R keys until a globe appears on the screen. Wait patiently - 15-20 minutes - until the Recovery main menu appears.
Partition and Format the hard drive:
Select Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
After DU loads select your newly installed hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed. Quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion. Mavericks: Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion, Mavericks and click on the Install button. Be sure to select the correct drive to use if you have more than one.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.
This should restore the version of OS X originally pre-installed on the computer.

Gray screen after login - Cinnamon 2.2/Nvidia 334

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So, I added the following to pacman.conf -
IgnorePkg = cinnamon* muffin* nemo*
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:: Synchronizing package databases...
core is up to date
extra is up to date
community is up to date
multilib is up to date
infinality-bundle is up to date
infinality-bundle-multilib is up to date
Foreign packages: / 29 / 29
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core/libsystemd 212-2 2 -> 3
core/systemd 212-2 2 -> 3
core/logrotate 3.8.7-1 1 -> 3
core/mlocate 0.26-1 1 -> 3
core/shadow 4.1.5.1-7 7 -> 9
core/systemd-sysvcompat 212-2 2 -> 3
extra/mesa 10.1.0-4 4 -> 5
extra/pango 1.36.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/clutter-gst 2.0.10-1 1 -> 2
extra/gthumb 3.2.7-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-en-US 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-common 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-base 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-calc 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-draw 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-gnome 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-impress 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-math 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/libreoffice-writer 4.2.3-1 1 -> 2
extra/pkgstats 2.3-3 3 -> 5
extra/polkit 0.112-1 1 -> 2
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core/glib2 2.38.2-1 -> 2.40.0-1
core/device-mapper 2.02.105-2 -> 2.02.106-1
core/iproute2 3.12.0-1 -> 3.14.0-1
core/linux 3.14-4 -> 3.14.1-1
core/lvm2 2.02.105-2 -> 2.02.106-1
core/man-db 2.6.6-1 -> 2.6.7.1-1
extra/at-spi2-core 2.10.2-1 -> 2.12.0-1
extra/atk 2.10.0-1 -> 2.12.0-1
extra/at-spi2-atk 2.10.2-1 -> 2.12.0-1
extra/gobject-introspection 1.38.0-1 -> 1.40.0-1
extra/gdk-pixbuf2 2.30.6-1 -> 2.30.7-1
extra/cogl 1.16.2-1 -> 1.18.0-1
extra/json-glib 0.16.2-1 -> 1.0.0-1
extra/clutter 1.16.4-3 -> 1.18.0-1
extra/gtk-update-icon-cache 2.24.22-1 -> 2.24.23-1
extra/libcups 1.7.1-4 -> 1.7.2-1
extra/gtk3 3.10.7-1 -> 3.12.1-1
extra/clutter-gtk 1.4.4-4 -> 1.5.2-1
extra/cups 1.7.1-4 -> 1.7.2-1
extra/dconf 0.18.0-1 -> 0.20.0-1
extra/gnome-icon-theme-symbolic 3.10.1-1 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/gnome-icon-theme 3.10.0-1 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/libsecret 0.16-2 -> 0.18-1
extra/gsettings-desktop-schemas 3.10.1-1 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/evince 3.10.3-1 -> 3.12.1-1
extra/file-roller 3.10.2.1-1 -> 3.12.1-1
extra/fontsproto 2.1.2-1 -> 2.1.3-1
extra/gcr 3.10.1-3 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/gtksourceview3 3.10.2-1 -> 3.12.1-1
extra/libpeas 1.9.0-2 -> 1.10.0-1
extra/pygobject-devel 3.10.2-2 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/python-gobject 3.10.2-2 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/gedit 3.10.4-2 -> 3.12.1-1
extra/gnutls 3.2.13-1 -> 3.3.0-1
extra/glib-networking 2.38.2-1 -> 2.40.1-1
extra/gnome-common 3.10.0-1 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/gnome-keyring 3.10.1-2 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/gnome-screenshot 3.10.1-1 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/gnome-themes-standard 3.10.0-1 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/libsoup 2.44.2-1 -> 2.46.0-1
extra/xorg-server-common 1.15.0-5 -> 1.15.1-1
extra/xorg-server 1.15.0-5 -> 1.15.1-1
extra/nvidia-utils 334.21-7 -> 337.12-1
extra/nvidia-libgl 334.21-7 -> 337.12-1
extra/webkitgtk 2.2.5-2 -> 2.4.0-1
extra/gtk2 2.24.22-1 -> 2.24.23-1
extra/gucharmap 3.10.1-1 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/gvfs 1.18.3-3 -> 1.20.1-2
extra/libplist 1.10-1 -> 1.11-1
extra/libimobiledevice 1.1.5-2 -> 1.1.6-1
extra/gvfs-afc 1.18.3-3 -> 1.20.1-2
extra/gvfs-mtp 1.18.3-3 -> 1.20.1-2
extra/gvfs-smb 1.18.3-3 -> 1.20.1-2
extra/lcms2 2.5-2 -> 2.6-1
extra/imagemagick 6.8.8.9-1 -> 6.8.9.0-1
extra/js 17.0.0-1 -> 24.2.0-1
extra/libgee 0.12.0-1 -> 0.14.0-1
extra/libgnome-keyring 3.10.1-2 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/libtracker-sparql 0.16.4-1 -> 1.0.0-2
extra/nvidia 334.21-4 -> 337.12-1
extra/python2-gobject 3.10.2-2 -> 3.12.0-1
extra/python2-atspi 2.10.0-2 -> 2.12.0-1
extra/upower 0.9.23-2 -> 0.99.0-2
extra/usbmuxd 1.0.8-2 -> 1.0.9-1
extra/vte-common 0.34.9-1 -> 0.36.0-1
extra/vte3 0.34.9-1 -> 0.36.0-1
extra/webkitgtk2 2.2.5-2 -> 2.4.0-1
extra/xproto 7.0.25-1 -> 7.0.26-1
community/cjs 2.0.0-1 -> 2.2.0-1
community/python2-pillow 2.3.1-2 -> 2.4.0-1
multilib/lib32-pcre 8.34-1 -> 8.35-1
multilib/lib32-glib2 2.38.2-1 -> 2.40.0-1
multilib/lib32-nvidia-utils 334.21-5 -> 337.12-1
multilib/lib32-nvidia-libgl 334.21-5 -> 337.12-1
aur/jdk7 7.51-2 -> 7.55-1
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extra/libinput 0.1.0-1 (required by clutter)
extra/libusbmuxd 1.0.9-1 (required by libimobiledevice)
extra/js17 17.0.0-1 (required by polkit)
and I still had the same issue with the gray screen after login.
Last edited by madscience (2014-04-16 15:02:33)

Help!!! Ipod Nano Frozen on Apple Logo Screen after trying to reset

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Help me Obi-Wan. You're my only hope.
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Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 3
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 5.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 4
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 5
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 6
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 7
Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 8
This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. The battery is distinct from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a gray screen at boot. Typically the boot failure will be preceded by loss of the startup disk and system clock settings. See the user manual for replacement instructions.
Step 9
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.

IMac - gray screen after OSX 10.9.4 upgrade

iMAC
21.5-inch, Late 2009
Processor 3.33 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory 16 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
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After being gone for 2 weeks we returned home and initially the iMAC booted fine and my wife was able to use it with no issues. Then she called later in the day reporting that she could no longer log into the machine despite trying to restart and then powering off/on. I had auto updates turned on so my guess is that the update to 10.9.4 happened but failed to complete.
I rebooted using the recovery disc, ran the check disk utility and there were some issues with permissions on some of the printer related files. After the utility corrected those I attempted to reboot again. Still ended up with the gray screen.
I installed OSX again, received no error messages, but still gray screen again. Rebooted in safe mode, checked the disks again and no issues. I followed all the steps to in the knowledge base article to check peripherals (none connected), clear memory, reinstall, etc. Getting the machine back in working mode required erasing the main drive and reinstalling OS X again. Since I have a cloud backup of my data, I was able to do that without serious data loss. It seems there was some issue with the update conflicting with some data that existed on the drive. Don't know where that would have been logged and not enough time available for me to scour the support site to track it down. This is mainly an FYI that the 10.9.4 updater may have issues and it took some drastic measures on my part to get my machine working again.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

I can't get past the gray screen after update of 10.10.3

downloade the new software on my 2011 Mac this morning, and after the download when the computer restarts a gray screen appear. I don't know how to get rid of it. It was working fine before the updat. Anyone have this problem?

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If a desktop Mac hangs at a plain gray screen with a movable cursor, the keyboard may not be recognized. Press and hold the button on the side of an Apple wireless keyboard to make it discoverable. If need be, replace or recharge the batteries. If you're using a USB keyboard connected to a hub, connect it to a built-in port.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Imac freezes with gray screen after mavericks update

I was updating my imac system and it is frozen in a gray screen, like it is restarting.
It's been twenty minutes and it didn't restarted.
What can i do if it don't restart anymore?
All my work data is on that imac.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
     a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Monitor goes dark during gray screen after power outtage

The mini was plugged into a surge protector, but after the power went out, it doesn't get past the gray screen with the swirling disk, then goes black with an out of range message. I took it to the Mac genius today, he diagnosed it with an external drive, did repairs and got it to boot on his monitor. I have been reading the discussion and reset PRAM, unplugged everything, restarted holding the power button and plug at same time, done option start with CD, done a hardware check. Used Disk Utility to do an expended check, repaired everything. The monitor works fine with my G3. Still no screen. Any other ideas?
Mac Mini 1.25 GHZ, View Sonic Va2012 widescreen display. System 10.3.7 (reinstalled).

Well if it worked before and doesn't now, I would try trashing the preference files associated with the display. Use Spotlight and search on the term "windowserver". You should find at least two files with windowserver in the name that end with .plist. One will be com.apple.windowserver.plist and possibly com.apple.widowserver.xxxxxxx.plist where xxxxxxx will be a string of digits and numbers. Throw all such files in the trash, empty the trash and then restart. This should give you a fresh start with the mini and the Viewsonic.

Gray screen after boot and blue screen with stripes

Hi, I have a MacBook Pro Mid 2011 with Mavericks (came with Snow Leopard).
History:
One day i was working and things were too slow. I tried to restart but it was taking too long to close all the programs. So I forced shut down by holding the power button. When I turned it on again, my problems begin.
Problem:
The Apple logo and the spinning wheel appear. After a while, both disappear and it freezes at gray screen. Some solutions I tried make the screen goes blue with black vertical stripes. In both cases, I have to force shut down.
Solutions I tried:
- Reset NVRAM
     It does reset, but nothing change
- Log in my Windows partition. I can't log
- Hold option key and choose recovery. Blue screen
- Recovery system by restart and press Command-R. Blue Screen.
- Safe boot by pressing Shift. Blue Screen
- Verbose by pressing Command-V. Restart and gray screen again.
- Single-user mode by pressing Command-S
     Tried to reapair hard drive:
          /sbin/fsck –fy
     Returns the message "** The volume Macintosh HD appears to be OK.". I restart and nothing change.
     Tried to change startup permissions:
          mount -uw /
          chown root /
          chmod 1775 /
          exit
     Restart and nothing change.
- Boot from a bootable USB flash drive
     Holding option key, I choose my flash drive with Ubuntu installed. It gives me 3 options: Use Ubuntu without installing, Install Ubuntu, Repair Disk      Errors (something like that). The 3 options go to the blue screen
     Flash drive with Mavericks. Blue screen.
-Boot from my Snow Leopard CD. Gray screen, restarting, gray screen.
I don't what else I can do. Is it a hardware problem? At first I thought it was some corrupted file. But is it a GPU or logic board problem? What else can I try?

I found this to work at least to get in and backup some files. It is VERY important to put these commands in EXACTLY as seen here, including spaces.
Boot into Single-User mode (Command-S while booting up)
Execute the following commands:
/sbin/fsck -fy /
/sbin/mount -uw /
mkdir /Disabled_System_Library_Extensions
cd /Disabled_System_Library_Extensions
mv /System/Library/Extensions/ATI* .
mv /System/Library/Extensions/AMD* .
touch /System/Library/Extensions
exit
I guess these two graphics extensions go bad quite often on Macbook Pro 15-inch. They are part of the logic board. The only problem I had was I still couldn't get into my computer any other way, and the graphics for Safari were messed up. Firefox was okay. Good Luck!
Here's the original thread:
http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/120507/boot-hangs-on-grey-screen-even-w hen-booting-from-usb-drive-with-fresh-os-x-inst

MacBook Pro hangs in gray screen after security update

I just allowed software update to download and install the latest Safari update and Security update 2009-6. During the restart my macbook just hung on the gray screen with the spinning gear.
I've tried starting in target disc mode but the iMac doesn't register the MacBook's HD.
I started from the install disc (10.4.5) and launched disk utility but it won't read the HD either.
I tried Safe Start-up, resetting PRAM but still the hang.
HELP

If not for the coincidence of a restart after those software updates, I'd say
you need to get a correct version of Disk Warrior and see if it can repair
or rebuilt the hard disk drive's Directory; since that is a likely item to have
been corrupted somehow. And corruption of data, including the System,
is a serious matter. A near-capacity or over-full hard disk drive can cause
odd issues including corruption; so there may be more going on in the Mac.
Other third party disk utilities may be able to help get into the failed computer
and the problem is likely the hard disk drive. Sometimes, a software issue in
a drive can related to a hardware failure; so to consider a strategy that may
include a new drive for the computer and an external enclosure for the drive
that is now in the failed computer, to then maybe further your recovery of data
if it comes to that.
Good luck & happy computing!

2007 iMac Gray Screen After Boot - Can't do anything

Hello,
I have a 2007 iMac. When I turn it on, I hear the boot chime and see the light gray screen, and then it goes to a darker gray screen. It won't get past the dark gray screen, and the screen doesn't show any icons or anything. It's just a solid dark gray. I've tried resetting the NVRAM/PRAM, starting in safe mode, etc., and nothing seems to be making a difference.
Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this, and how I can fix it?
Thanks in advanced!

I've tried all of those things. I don't believe the peripherals are causing the problem. I forgot to mention that I have it connected to a TV via VGA adapter. The iMac's monitor doesn't work.

Gray Screen Macbook Pro Early 2011 Cleared PRAM, ETC

I've followed the procedures I've found on the net such as clearing PRAM. That did nothing. Safe Boot didn't work either. Have just installed a brand new battery. It says consumer shouldn't, but I'm a tech, so I did. Nothing has worked so far. Get the Apple logo and spinning wheel for about 60 seconds, then black jump to gray screen. Gray forever. Any other suggestions? It's got Snow Leopard installed. I've ordered a new disk. I'm hoping a reinstall will fix it?

Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
If this does not work, then you will need to try erasing the drive and reinstalling Snow Leopard.
Clean Install of Snow Leopard
Be sure to make a backup first because the following procedure will erase
the drive and everything on it.
     1. Boot the computer using the Snow Leopard Installer Disc or the Disc 1 that came
         with your computer. Insert the disc into the optical drive and restart the computer.
         After the chime press and hold down the "C" key. Release the key when you see
         a small spinning gear appear below the dark gray Apple logo.
     2. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue
         button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
         After DU loads select the hard drive entry from the left side list (mfgr.'s ID and drive
         size.) Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window. Set the number of
         partitions to one (1) from the Partitions drop down menu, click on Options button
         and select GUID, click on OK, then set the format type to MacOS Extended
         (Journaled, if supported), then click on the Apply button.
     3. When the formatting has completed quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed
         with the OS X installation and follow the directions included with the installer.
     4. When the installation has completed your computer will Restart into the Setup
         Assistant. Be sure you configure your initial admin account with the exact same
         username and password that you used on your old drive. After you finish Setup
         Assistant will complete the installation after which you will be running a fresh
         install of OS X. You can now begin the update process by opening Software
         Update and installing all recommended updates to bring your installation current.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.

Beach Ball of Death, Dark Gray Screen after Clean OS ReInstall- Please Help

My 13" MBP is less than two months old.
I read online somewhere that a company that buys large quantities of Macs has a strategy for combating the industry standard 5% hard drive failure in new notebooks. It said something along the lines of performing a clean install / reformat of OS X was a good idea to see if any problems arise- then the HD would likely have problems in the near future, etc...
Being the nerd that I am I performed a clean install on my MBP. I had just performed one the day before on my other Mac (which worked perfectly).
First of all, my MBP took roughly 15 minutes to boot from the disk (to begin the reinstall). Actually one time I gave it over 20 minutes and it never did load. Once I finally got to the Language select screen it froze, clicking the continue arrow did nothing and I couldn't even choose another language. So I shut down and tried again. The DVD doesn't look scratched. Is my drive less than stellar?
This time, it worked, albeit, it took much longer to install than my lesser powered Mac Mini. OS X notified me that the installation was successful and that it now simply needed to restart. Upon restart I was greeted with a dark gray screen and mouse cursor spinning beach ball (that responded to trackpad).
Shut down, turned it back on- same thing. Tried a bunch more times, no luck.
Called Apple Care and after a few questions / tips we concluded that it needed to be sent in, the associate imagined it was a HD problem.
I took my MBP to a local authorized service provider and they took it, and called me back in a few hours. I asked what they did to fix it, and they skillfully dodged the question. They said it should be good now, that it passed all hardware tests, but to let them know if it happened again.
Since then it's been running okay. As a nerd it's a bit bothersome to know that I can't perform a clean install when I see fit- and that if I did, I'd have to take it into Apple Care again in the future, and once Apple Care runs out than a clean install just isn't an option.
It boots up just as fast, but when it gets passed the white screen with the Apple logo... when the desktop is loading I noticed that it stays at the flash of the solid blue desktop a bit longer than usual (the second before it loads your desktop bg image). It also seems that fully loading all of the top right menu bar items takes a bit longer than before.
Also, not sure if the hard drive's sudden motion sensor is going haywire. But randomly, the hard drive will make a singular faint "thud / click" noise. Very faint. But it's not your usual "reading data from the HD" hard drive thrashing noise you hear when you open an app / file. It's a single, more sudden noise, but like I said it is fairly quiet- I hear it when I have literally nothing running except this Safari window. This is something I didn't notice the first few weeks with the MBP.
Also in system profiler, the battery's condition was never good, but only "Normal." I did calibrate my battery one of the first days I had it.
Here's some coconutBattery info:
Current Battery Capacity: 5588 mAh
Original Battery Capacity: 5770 mAh
Which is 96%.
Load cycles: 10
Anyways, curious if anyone has any ideas about my inability to perform a clean install and successfully boot up? I don't see any reason why it should have taken THAT long to boot from the disk, frozen in several random spots throughout, and then not be able to boot up.
The HD noises aren't a huge deal just a bit concerning, and admittedly the battery info is just nerdy paranoia. Just curious what's going on with my MBP. Is there anything I can do, or should read?

Hi simplecoder13,
I perform a similar process on all the HDs that I buy, only I take it a step further. I'll run a single pass erase on drives under 500GB and a seven pass erase on drives larger than 500GB and ones that are deemed "mission critical." Here's an interest metric, though.
Since 01/01/10 on laptop drives (Seagate, Western Digital, Hitachi)
+HDs purchases - 461+
+Drives > 500GB - 119+
+Drives < 500GB - 342+
+Drives that fail zero test - 13+
+Drives that pass zero test, fail within 30 days - 2+
+Drives that pass zero test, fail within 60 days - 0+
+Drives that pass zero test, fail within 90 days - 3+
+Drives that pass zero test, fail within 180 days - 4+
+Total drive failures within 6 months - 22 (4.77%) ~ 5%+
I don't have a manufacturer break down, I suppose I should start logging that more closely. Anyway...
I have a new MacBook Pro (13" @ 2.4GHz) and booting off the installation disc, from selecting the installer disc via the boot manager to the language selection screen is ~ 6 mins and 44 seconds. I use that as an average, I did it over 10 restarts but it was a pretty fair assessment. The fact that the installer is freezing is definitely cause for alarm, that's not normal or to be expected. Process of elimination would tell me the following:
1.) The disc is bad
2.) The optical drive is bad
My understanding of the installer is the HD isn't initially accessed during the installer until you choose an install location (at which point it's mount point is verified).
Regarding the battery, your full charge capacity is going to bounce around the first couple of months, usually anywhere from 250-400 mAh. I noticed sporadic reporting until I reached the 50 cycle mark (or around 6 months based on usage). That being said, I don't see any problems or cause for alarm with the information you've reported.

Gray Screen After Erasing Harddrive & Resetting NVRAM/PRAM (Clean Install)

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