Help me decide which Ipod...Please!!

I'm trying to decide between the Nano or the 5Th Generation with video. One question, I notice that there are very few movies on Itunes...in fact I don't really see any...just the TV shows and a few shorts from Pizar. (and of course the movie trailers...why would you download those??)
My question, is there another website, sort of like audible.com that makes it very easy to download full length movies and documentaries??? If not, can I somehow transfer a movie I own on DVD to my IPOD???
HELP!!!

yes you can put ur on dvd's on a video ipod
also a 4gb nano is $249 or £179 and a video ipod is $299 or £219 so for the price you might aswell get an ipod video

Similar Messages

I need help to decide which macbook pro is best for photo editing, editing movies and doing all the rest too like excel, word etc. 13"

I need help to decide which macbook pro is best for photo editing, editing movies and doing all the rest too like microsoft office products ...excel, word etc. I am new to the apple world and have liked the idea of the MAC Book Pro 13" but really dont know if this is good enough or if the computer will soon crash?
13-inch: 2.6GHz
with Retina display
Specifications
2.6GHz dual-core Intel Core i5
Turbo Boost up to 3.1GHz
8GB 1600MHz memory
512GB PCIe-based flash storage1
Intel Iris Graphics
Built-in battery (9 hours)2

That's a fine machine and, with 8GB of RAM and 512GB flash storage should serve you well for light video/photo editing as well as for 'normal' usage. And it should last you for years to come.
Good luck in making your decision!!
Clinton

Help me find my ipod please

i lost my ipod touch in my friend's dad's car or in my room.. i looked everywhere in my room.. nd my friend say her dat looked in the car and didnt see it, bt i dont kno how thoroughly he looked but i kno its either in his car or in my room, because the last place i had was in his car. I have the app Text Me on my ipod can that in any way help me find my ipod because, the wifi on my ipod is turned off, and i dont have other apps or anything to help me find it.. please help because my mom bought me that for christmas and its was very expensive.

With wifi off all you can do is look for it like a lost glove. Sorry.

I want to buy W530 today, please help me decide which options

I have decided to purchase the Lenovo W530 Thinkpad. I have researched the daylights out of my choice and am going to live with my choice. I have a Dell XPS desktop and ASUS ProArt monitor. So here are my choices -
1. Processor options - My XPS8500 desktop has a i7 3770@ 3.4. The standard for the W530 is an i7-3520M (4M cache, up to 3.60 Ghz). I am leaning toward the i7 3740QM (6M cache, up tp 3.70 GHz). This option is an $85 upgrade. I hope this would be as good as my desktop as I have no clue what these specs mean. My next choice is a i7 3840 (8M cache, up to 3.80 GHz). This costs an extra $285.
2. No help needed in picking 1920x1080 display with calibration sensor.
3. 16 GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (4 DIMM). Not sure what this means but for $90 less I could drop to 8 GB DDR3 - 1600MHz (1 DIMM) or for $120 more could go to 16 GB DDR3 - 1600MHz (2 DIMM). Again have no clue what the difference is, other than 16 GB is probably better than 8 GB). My desktop as 12 GB of RAM.
4. I want to get the 1 TB HD 5400 rpm as opposed to the 500 GB 7200rpm hard drive. I know the latter is faster but I value the space. Going for the 1 TB adds $100.
5. I have no idea what a Micro hard drive is. I have a choice of no Micro Solid State Drive or for $40 more can get 16 GB mSATA Solid State Cache Drive. It is only $40 extra but have no idea what the advantage is.
6. The standard config comes with a DVD recordable optical device. I can replace this with a second hard drive. I am guessing I would have to buy an external DVD device to record DVDs or CDs, which I do not want to do, so I will stick with the standard configuration.
7. I am really really hoping the standard NVIDIA Quadro K1000M graphics with 2 GB DDR3 memory will be good enough for Photoshop. I am not a power user, do not do much with video, and never use computer for games. For $250 more I can upgrade to K2000 that has same 2GB DDR3 memory.
8. For $20 more I can get the Intel Centrino Ultimate N 6300 AGN wireless LANN adaptor instead of the standard Intel Centrino Advanced N 6205 AGN. Again I have no clue what this means.
With the options I am leaning toward my cost is $1,587.60. I will add an external 10 key pad and Mini display port to DVI adaptor so I can hook up my external monitor to the laptop. I am hoping I would not need docking station with these two options as I have read about the problems in this forum. . I have been happy with my Dell desktop so my hope is my laptop will perform as well. I do use a laptop very often, so my goal is to be able to use one computer for everything.
I mainly want to know if the processor I am leaning to will be as good as my Dell XPS 8500 and if I really need the more expensive graphics card. I know I am not a Thinkpad owner yet like everyone on this forum. But I know this is the place to go for people that know the Thinkpads so I really do need and appreciate your help. I hope down the road I can contribute like many of you do.
Gary
Solved!
Go to Solution.

1) i7-3520m is an i7 dual core CPU, if you choose this option then you would only use 2 of the 4 SODIMM RAM slots, and your max ram capacity is 16 gigs (2 x 8 gigs). If you choose the i7-3740QM, which is a quad core cpu, you would be able to use the 4 SODIMM RAM Slots for a max of 32 gigs of ram (4 x 8 gigs).
Your XPS systems uses a desktop grade quad core CPU, and the laptop uses (if you choose the i7-3740QM) a mobile version, which is slower than the equivalent speed desktop CPU. The short answer is that you won't find a IVY Bridge Mobile CPU in the W530 that will be faster than the i7-3770. The i7-3940XM is the fastest cpu in the W530, and it is still slower than your i7-3770.
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-3940XM+%40+3.00GHz
2) RAM Cost slightly cheaper aftermarket.
3) micro hdd is the mSATA, and in my opinion there is really no point getting 16 gigs version. I would rather pay 100 dollars aftermarket and get 120 gigs mSATA and use it as a SSD.
4) for PS, the K1000m is enough, no point getting the K2000m.
5) i would pay the 20 dollars and get the 6300 wireless card.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

PLEASE!!!! HELP ME W/ ITUNES/IPOD PLEASE!!!

YO GUYS! It would be awesome if someone could please help me!! I love my ipod more than some humans haha but i repeatedly have problems with it. Im on my 5th.. its in the process of getting repaired/replaced. But i have neverr had problems with Itunes, this is where the problem starts.. As well as my own, I also manage my moms ipod and itunes because she has a hard time comprhending.. anyways to get to the point she has the newest version of the ipod classic. Two days ago I picked up HER Ipod and for no reason at all, ALL of the music was mysteriously erased..?? I had never had problems with it previously and it was always fine when I plugged it in to update. So i figured I would just plug it back in and it would just put all the songs back on like I had when she first got it... wrong. I called Apple 3 times and absolutely no one could help me not even product specialists. What is happening is that everytime I plug it in Itunes freezes and a blib comes up and says "error (69) ipod cannot be synced a required file is missing" Only.. nothing about my computer has changed.. and its a brandnew lap top and has no viruses. After repeatedly trying to fix the ipod and get it to Sync a little info bubble popped up and said that Windows Vista might have corrupted the ipod...It suggested that I update Itunes which I did and check for and required updates that may need to be installed for windows...which I did. Nothing changed the situation and the Ipod still will not sync and still freezes Itunes upon being plugged in. Did Windows Vista completely ruin the Ipod??? or is there somethin that I can do that I am unaware of? Any advice or help at all on the situation would be immensley appreciated!!!

There are some data recovery programs on the market. I've no personal experience of them so I can't say how effective they are, there is an example at the following link. If you do an internet search you'll find others: iPod Data Recovery Buegie - Recovering Songs </a
None of the recovery programs are particularly cheap so you have to decide if in your particular circumstances it's worth it to get your songs back. It may be if you have a lot of purchased tracks which you will have to pay to download again. If they came primarily from your CDs then it's most likely not as you can re-rip them.

Can't decide which ipod nano case to buy :S

I am actually planning to buy an ipod nano 2gb. I want to buy a nice protective leather case with it which will protect my ipod from scratches. But I am actually very confused which one to buy :S Can any one of you help me with the decision? It would be a great help, I am looking for a case stylish as well as that would protect my ipod nano very well...
I also noticed that in the box of the ipod nano they included a case. Can anyone of you let me know what type of case that is? Or show me a picture of it... please. Thank you very much for your concern. Waiting for reply

yeah, thats what i mean. This is the one I bought, though is basically the same as the one you found. This one actually has a warranty on it, and I've heard its the best out there. It gives full body protection, too: front, back and sides. Unfortunately, I don't think you can take them off and put them back on, at least they wouldn't look good reused. They are basically a sticker that you apply to it, using a tiny bit of water to keep the air bubbles out.

Can anyone help me decide which computer I need...

I do intensive video/audio/and photo imaging processing on my computers. My boss is going to get me a new computer and I'm trying to decide between a MacBook Pro and G5.
I need:
FW 800
graphics card capabilities for Motion and Aperture
Audio input
DL burning
My real question I suppose is the Macbook Pro as good of a machine as G5. I want a machine that is FAST and reliable. The portability of the Macbook is a plus, but the reliabilty/compatibility of the G5 is also a plus.
I also am afraid to get a G5 because it may be obsolete sooner than we imagine. But so would the MBP.
So, can I have some thoughts on the performance values on both machines. This would be my main computer for all my video/audio/photo editing. Thanks alot...

At this point, as long as you are talking about a PowerMac G5, the G5 will be a more reliable performer.
Most likely, it will either outperform, or perform comparably to the MacBook Pro.
If you are in need of something that will do the job without all the returns to the store, then you are probably better off with a G5 (don't get an iMac G5 though - they are even more trouble).
But, you are right to be concerned about life-span when it comes to PowerPC vs Intel.
The Intel architecture is definitely the way of the future now. And, there will come a day when developers will care less about backwards compatibility. So, we will likely see a day when something will be released only for Intel.
Who knows how far off that day is. But, it will likely come eventually.
Apple last updated the PowerMac G5 in December. So, they are going to be nearing their average replacement cycle pretty soon. I would suspect that by Fall or Winter that we will see a new replacement for the PowerMac based on the Intel CPU's.
But, if you have to buy now, then you are choosing between two basic concepts:
1) MacBook Pro: CPU with more support going forward. 32-BIT CPU instead of 64-BIT. Reliability problems, and lots of early design issues. You could get a good one, or you could spend all your time in the repair shop. All repairs will have to be done by Apple.
2) PowerMac G5: CPU with no future support. Will likely be supported in software for at least another year or two. 64-BIT CPU, and very powerful. Proven design, and greater reliability than the MacBook Pro. Also, fully serviceable. The only component you can't really replace with after-market parts is going to be the main logic board.
So, in the end, you have to choose between the solid and reliable performer who's future is unsure, and the unreliable first-born who's future is assured but may spend all it's time being fixed.
I'm not sure if this helps. But, maybe it will give you some thoughts to help with your decision.
If it were me, I would eliminate the 15-inch MacBook Pro immediately from the equation.
Then, consider that the 17-inch comes with FireWire 800 (instead of having to add it on as you would with the 15-inch model).
The 17-inch has so far had fewer complaints than the 15-inch model had in the same amount of time following it's introduction. But, the 17-inch may have also seen far fewer sales in this same time period due to price (and the fact that many of it's potential buyers probably already have a 15-inch).
To be honest, I don't know for sure which route I would go. I personally had two iMac G5's that gave me a lot of problems. These were iMac specific issues. They were not G5 issues, but rather issues unique to the design of the iMac.
I sold them, and have decided to wait until a reliable Intel machine ships to purchase my next replacement. At this point, I am watching for an Intel PowerMac.
But, if I were forced to buy today, it would be a very tough call.
I would avoid all iMacs. And, I wouldn't want the current MacBook Pro or the Intel Mini. So, I'd be stuck between purchasing something I didn't want or something that might be obsoleted faster than I'd like.
It's a tough one.
How tied into product availability are you?
Do you need to be assured that you can always run the latest titles? Or, are you going to be using the same programs you buy today for the next 3 to 5 years?
If your software upgrade cycle is fairly long, then I might be inclined to suggest going with the proven PowerMac G5. Just get the most powerful one you can.
If your software upgrade cycles are shorter, then I would probably consider (with a mental struggle) the idea of getting a new Intel based system. And, then try to pick the least problematic of the bunch. At this point, that would appear to be the 17-inch MacBook Pro. But, only time will tell if it has the same issues as the 15-inch. Right now it's good appearance could be due to lower sales volume than the 15-inch in the same time period.
One additional thought, is whether the programs you use or need will be available in Universal Binary form in the near future. If not, then they will perform slower on the MacBook Pro than they will on the PowerMac G5.
Hopefully my thoughts are helpful. It's a tough spot. But, I know some people can't put off a purchase until the outlook improves.

Need help on deciding which Mac I should buy

Alright, so I have a very important decision I need to make and I really need help making it.
My two choices:
Choice 1: My first choice is that I have $1378 dollars to buy a MacBook. My choice is the MacBook air 13" with 128 GB hard drive, 8 GB Memory, and 1.7 GHz processor.
Choice 2: My Dad does not want his MacBook Air 11" base model from 2012. He is willing to give it to me. In return, I will give him the $1378 and he will buy himself a $400 laptop from that. Then he will buy me a 500 GB Thunderbolt hard drive and a thunderbolt to hdmi adaptor for the MacBook Air. The remaining money will then go to me.
Either choice I take, I need a computer fast enought to do serious video editing with Final Cut Pro and Multi-tasking. Also, it needs to last 3 years. Which choice should I take. I have one week to decide. Either way, my dad will pay for my Mac OS X Mavericks Update.

The processors in the new MacBook Airs are not that much more powerful than the 2012 models, the real difference is in the battery life. When you say your dad has the base model, I'm assuming that is the 4 GB RAM/64 GB SSD version. You would be cutting it close on storage space, but the external Thunderbolt drive would make up for that. 4 GB RAM is also cutting it close, especially for video editing, but I hear the flash storage on the MacBook Airs helps compensate for that.
If it were me, I would go with option 2, considering you should have a pretty good chunk of change left over once your dad buys his laptop and your Thunderbolt accessories.

I need help on deciding which camcorder is right for me....

I'm going into college early September and my professor wants me to practice making films.
I'm getting a MacBook Pro tomorrow along with Final Cut Express, now all I need is the right camcorder.
Unfortunately, $200 is my budget, and I need a camcorder (mini or not) that has great 1) video quality (HD) 2) low-light quality and 3) good zoom.
When I'm shooting, I also need to have good audio quality and be able to hear when I review what was shot.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here is my tuppence-worth after three years of amateur videoing and several hours of edited video (not artistic stuff, just records of things happening).
1. Three years ago I was advised to get a mini-tape machine because FCE does not work well with non-tape machines. This was confirmed in this discussion group recently.
2. Three years ago I was advised not to get a Canon machine - not because they are not good but because FCE has difficulty working with them. Sonys were thought to work well. Others might confirm or update this.
3. Unless you like the awful current fad of continuously zooming in and out, in and out of focus and jiggling the camera purposely, use a tripod whenever you can, and failing that a monopod which is easy to carry attached to the camera and takes three seconds to position (assuming the legs are expanded). It greatly steadies the shot (but press it into the ground if outside to make sure that it does not jerk).
4. On light level sensitivity which you mention, my Sony DCR HC96 which cost much more than you want to pay (but all the cheaper versions in that range have the same level) the Minimum Illumination is 5 Lux (Lux is a measure of light intensity falling on a subject so obviously 0 Lux is total darkness). This allows me to shoot in remarkably low light levels conditions, so the 5 Lux figure will give you something to consider when looking at specifications.
5. My camera (but not the cheaper versions) has "Night Shot" which allows shooting in total darkness up to about 6 metres away using the infrared light on the camera.
6. It also has Sony's "SteadyShot" which compensates for rapid shake (but not hosepipe shots of course). This was tested when shooting on a tripod on a hill in very windy conditions when I had to brace myself. The camera was vibrating noticeably but there was no sign of that on the footage. (I don't know whether the anti-camera shake system was optical or electronic). The manual indicates that the cheaper versions in the range also have this.
7. Most beginners start by hosepiping (moving the camera all over the place to get everything in). My advice is to get that out of your system very quickly, and pan (s l o w l y) instead.
8. As often advised in this forum, start shooting a few seconds before and keep shooting a few seconds after the shot that you want. This is to allow for transitions at both ends (the dreaded "Handles" thing). Also, at events etc. which you cannot re-shoot, aim to shoot at least 5 to 10 times the footage that will survive the average editing process. Therefore, carry spare tapes (if you go for that type) and a spare charged battery.
9. I find that the cheaper the camera the greater the optical zoom. This might be due to the greater ease of designing a cheaper lens where compromises can be made. Beware Digital zoom — it doesn't add any extra info., just pixellates.
10. I find that Scaling up a video clip in FCE by more than a few percent degrades the image (probably because video cameras are designed to make footage that will be shown via a DVD or TV when the footage has to be greatly compressed, so a lot of pixels is not economic, but I am only guessing here). Do a (optical) zoom during the shoot or use a still taken with a still camera which will have more pixels than a video camera. You can always Scale in FCE and then pan using Motion.
11. You want to hear what you have just shot. I think that most cameras will allow this (in Play mode).
Hope this helps.

I am stressed out...help me with my ipod please

My Ipod is not working at all and I am STRESSING out. When I plugged it into Itunes, it told me that I needed to restore my ipod to the factory settings. When I try to restore my ipod it tells me that there is a Dsik Write error...I have tried the other tips left on this forum, but they did not work. If someone has anything for me to try It would be greatly appreciated, or if my ipod is hooped and needs to fixed or something please let me know. THANK YOU SO MUCH

you might need to update the software on your ipod,then try restore

Help me with my ipod please @jjn25123

hi i have a ipod 3rd generation 8gb but recently it turns onto the apple sign when you turn on the power but then suddenly it blacks out if you can reply to me @jjn25123 thanks

First, try a system reset. It cures many ills and it's quick, easy and harmless...
Hold down the on/off switch and the Home button simultaneously until the screen blacks out or you see the Apple logo. Ignore the "Slide to power off" text if it appears. You will not lose any apps, data, music, movies, settings, etc.
If the Reset doesn't work, try a Restore. Note that it's nowhere near as quick as a Reset. Connect via cable to the computer that you use for sync. From iTunes, select the iPad/iPod and then select the Summary tab. Follow directions for Restore and be sure to say "yes" to the backup. You will be warned that all data (apps, music, movies, etc.) will be erased but, as the Restore finishes, you will be asked if you wish the contents of the backup to be copied to the iPad/iPod. Again, say "yes."
Finally, if the Restore doesn't work, let the battery drain completely. Then recharge for at least an hour and Restore again.

Help me with my ipod please

I had to restore my computer and lost all of my songs, how do I get them from my ipod touch back onto itunes?

It has always been very basic to always maintain a backup copy of your computer for this very reason. Use your backup copy to put everything back.
The music sync is one way - computer to ipod. The only exception is itunes purchases. Without syncing: File>Transfer Purchases

Help in deciding which one to get.

Hi guys,
So I'm about to buy my first Macbook and I've narroed it down to 3 choices.
This will be for use at uni and other really simple stuff, no games or anything, mostly web browsing, waching videos and word docs.
1. 13/i5/256GB/8GB = ~1400
2. 13/i7/128GB/8GB = ~1300
So seeing that I am leaning towards the i5 more (since its got the better battery and mobility is a concern since I'm going to and from uni most days).
And the i5 is at around 1400$, why don't I just get the Macbook PRO (basic with 8GB), which is only a $100 more.
It just sort of makes more sense, since there isn't such a great price difference and I'm getting the PRO?
3. PRO 13/i5/128GB/8GB = ~1500
And just last question, does having 256GB make much of a difference? I mean I have a 128GB on my desktop, and I've only got 30GB filled, that is with the games I play too (Diablo 3 etc.)
So, even if I did get the 128GB, I probably would of gotten a external anyway??
Cheers
Clement

For the uses you describe, if it was me I would get the new $999 13/i5/128Gb/4GB.
There are arguments to be made for buying more than that, but again, given your intended use, that is what I would get. I have mid-2012 version with those specs and it has been and continues to be outstanding for that type of use.

Help Me Decide Which 15" MacBook Pro To Buy?

I am working on my MFA in photography. I do own an Imac but I have trouble sitting at a desk for too long. I also work as a real estate agent. I use my laptop for some Photoshop, Lightroom, watching videos etc. I also use it for writing articles and MLS property searches etc.
I was thinking about the 15" because I think the 17 might be just a little too big to carry around, plus I really dont like the keyboard being so far back. I use the thing in bed alot and the 17 looks like it might be uncomfortable in my tunmmy
My question is if I go for the 15", which processor speed should I get? If I splurged and got the 2.8 would I see much of a difference over the standard model?
Also, is the Hi-Res worth it for photo-editting ? Although I am studying for my MFA, I am far from a pro so I dont know if tis is overkill.
As far as memory goes, I though tI would probably upgrade to 8 maybe down the road in a year or two when I feel I am outgrowing the 4.
I appreciate any advice

I meant for the performance enhancement of the 3d applications, and rendering speed. because thats why i highly use my MBP for, a base i5 gets warmer more than my toaster, even if my leave my MBP in a wooden or a soft surface for a prolonged time. so a powerful GPU with an i7 would be the pefect combi to work with 3d applications.
For your needs I think you were wise getting the i7 however the OP doesn't mention doing any 3D apps or 3D renderings. Photography work is a much easier task for a computer than 3D so while an i7 would be a nice luxury it probably would be a waste of money and resources for the OP.
Roger

Help me deciding which enclosure i should get...

I am trying to buy WD Hardrive and i have an interest in this Western Digital WD3200KSRTL Caviar 320 GB SATA 3.5-Inch Hard Drive...
Can u check if this harddrive is good for macbook?? I am getting off Amazon... http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-WD3200KSRTL-Caviar-3-5-Inch/dp/B000FBSREU/ ref=sr14?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1218581987&sr=8-4
And I am interested in these enclosures... couple of them and willing to not spent more than $20...
http://www.amazon.com/2-5-SATA-HDD-Enclosure-Black/dp/B0018TCB0O/ref=pdbbs4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1218581821&sr=8-4
http://www.amazon.com/SATA-Hard-Drive-Case-Enclosure/dp/B001AAVA08/ref=pdbbs_sr8?ie=UTF8&s=miscellaneous&qid=1218581821&sr=8-8
http://www.amazon.com/USB-External-Enclosure-Case-Laptop/dp/B000FNBYKW/ref=sr114?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1218581821&sr=8-14
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SAT2510U2-InfoSafe-2-5-Inch-Enclosure/dp/B000PKC1 02/ref=pdbbs_sr3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1218581821&sr=8-3
Any good stuff from these guys???
THanks ...

i assume you are going to use this as your external HD...
WD make pretty good HD's, the list of links you have are enclosures for 2.5" HD's..... so either you had a typo on the Hard Drive specs or you are looking at all the wrong enclosures.

Help me decide which Ipod...Please!!

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