HOPING FOR RESOLUTION

I do not want to believe this is some sort of bait and switch or scam! My preferred thought is that some simple mistakes were made and that customer service will redeem themselves by providing the correct resolution.
I have been waiting to get a call from an escalation team member after talking to someone in my local store, and have not yet received the call, but this was a holiday weekend, so this may have held up my response. I have contacted "customer service", but to no avail-not very service oriented.
I ordered FIOS 50/50 with local channels and HBO, and in the middle of long distance move, did not notice that the gentleman I spoke to instead put the order in as with Showtime (after explaining HBO GO to me in length). All I am asking is that the Showtime be taken off and HBO put in, as I ordered. If this really cannot be done, I will cancel all.
During my several calls to customer service (first call made as the tech was driving off the property when my daughter called me and I realized the service was not as ordered), I began to get the feeling this might be a scam. The offer was made to let me pay for HBO at half price for 6 months then full price after 6 months (I ordered free with the package for two years-thanks for offering up such a great deal haha). Then I was told free HBO for 6 months by someone who basically threatened that they could take the whole package off and start over but it might not be a good deal for me then-I would probably pay more. At this point I began to feel beaten and said although not a good resolution for me, I would take the free offer (all the while, this rep kept telling me "listen to me . . . I am telling you what the resolution is" ) When done, I get an email showing HBO added at half price-not free, then call back and I am told nothing whatsoever can be done to help me because there are pending orders on my account.
I have used Verizon Wireless for several years and have always been happy, but this experience has not unfolded the way I would have hoped. I should not be coming away from customer service feeling beaten and with nowhere to turn for resolution. I have been told that it was my fault, because I did not catch it in the e-mails sent to me-not a good customer service statement. It might be that customer service could admit that some things were not done properly by the gentleman I spoke to, and they could simply make sure one service was switched for the other, as there was never any mention of Showtime in my conversation with him. (And, by the way, I am not upset with this gentleman-mistakes happen!) I am trying to set these things up from long distance and within the week that I ordered and the tech came to set up, I had to travel the several hours, move my daughter, etc. I have had good experiences with Verizon in the past and am hoping this can be resolved, so that our relationship remains in good standing.

I have figured out that I needed to reach out by e-mail possibly to the original person I ordered through. He responded to me pretty quickly today-tried to call and request that I talk to him before and got the poor service from others and was never put through.
I did call again today, prior to him answering me though and got a good rep! I do now have resolution.
Both the first gentleman and this gentleman I spoke with today were what I percieve as GOOD customer service reps. Verizon redeemed themselves today, in my eyes.

Similar Messages

Hoping for some feedback on iMovie's resolution settings

I'm not getting quality screen resolution when exporting slides with builds from Keynote, to Quicktime, import to iMovie, then back to Quicktime.
I notice it mainly with the text content because it's very pixellated, and it seems to start after I've imported the Keynote/quicktime file into iMovie.
The final Quicktime movie will be burned to DVD and then viewed on other's computer screens, which of course I realize will all be different.
I'm hoping for any help with this, as I have tried what I think is everything,and am still not getting anywhere with the quality.

See, i told you I was ignorant! So, when I insert a blank cd and the automatic pop up "burn" window opens when I drag a file onto the cd....is that the cd burner from the finder? It doesn't say anywhere what program is automatically opening.
If it IS the cd burner from finder that comes up, then that's what I've always used in the past and not the idvd.
At any rate, here are the file specs:
1280x720
Codecs: Integer (Little endian), AIC
Channel count: 2
Duration: 2'45
Size: 326.9 mb on disk
I guess I ought to try a dvd before I get into more intense trouble shooting...

Hoping for some help with a very frustrating issue! I have been syncing my iPhone 5s and Outlook 2007 calendar and contacts with iCloud on my PC running Vista. All was well until the events I entered on the phone were showing up in Outlook, but not

Hoping for some help with a very frustrating issue!
I have been syncing calendar and contacts on my iPhone 5 and Outlook 2007 using iCloud 2.1.3 (my PC is running Vista). All was well until the events I entered on the phone were showing up in Outlook, but not the other way around. I’ve tried the usual recommended steps: deselecting calendar and contacts in the iCloud control panel and then re-selecting, signing out of the panel and back in, and repairing the Outlook installation in control panel. I even uninstalled iCloud on the PC and downloaded it again (same version).
The furthest I’ve gotten is step 2 (and once, step 3) of 7 while performing “Outlook Setup For iCloud.” At that point I get, “Your setup couldn’t be started because of an unexpected error.” After the first attempt at all this, all my calendar events disappeared from Outlook, although they are still in iCloud calendar and on my phone.
Sound familiar? Any ideas on how to solve this iCloud/Outlook issue? Thanks much in advance!

Hoping for some help with a very frustrating issue!
I have been syncing calendar and contacts on my iPhone 5 and Outlook 2007 using iCloud 2.1.3 (my PC is running Vista). All was well until the events I entered on the phone were showing up in Outlook, but not the other way around. I’ve tried the usual recommended steps: deselecting calendar and contacts in the iCloud control panel and then re-selecting, signing out of the panel and back in, and repairing the Outlook installation in control panel. I even uninstalled iCloud on the PC and downloaded it again (same version).
The furthest I’ve gotten is step 2 (and once, step 3) of 7 while performing “Outlook Setup For iCloud.” At that point I get, “Your setup couldn’t be started because of an unexpected error.” After the first attempt at all this, all my calendar events disappeared from Outlook, although they are still in iCloud calendar and on my phone.
Sound familiar? Any ideas on how to solve this iCloud/Outlook issue? Thanks much in advance!

TS1538 Hi hoping for some help please/ My laptop was in for repair & now doesnt regognise ipad or iphone, it is now being recognised as a camera. Laptop will not allow me to update/reinstall I Tunes. Cannot get driver reinstalled

HI hoping for help pls, laptop was recently repaired& cloned, now will not recognise iphone or ipad, only sees iphone as a camera. Have spent ages trying to reinstall itunes to get so far and for it to fail. TRying desperately to reinstall driver for iphone now , have gotten as far as last steps to find folder in cdrive, found mobile file and there is no driver file at all. Am not the brightest tech lady so any easy to understand tips please am lost and cannot sync either pad or phone.

you have a ps cs4 license for mac and you have some way of finding your serial number.
if yes, download an install the installation file. if you already have the installation file, what is its name and file extension? (eg, if it's one file, it should be a dmg file.)
if you need the installation file,
Downloads available:
Suites and Programs: CC 2014 | CC | CS6 | CS5.5 | CS5 | CS4 | CS3
Acrobat: XI, X | 9,8 | 9 standard
Premiere Elements: 13 | 12 | 11, 10 | 9, 8, 7 win | 8 mac | 7 mac
Photoshop Elements: 13 |12 | 11, 10 | 9,8,7 win | 8 mac | 7 mac
Lightroom: 5.6| 5 | 4 | 3
Captivate: 8 | 7 | 6 | 5
Contribute: CS5 | CS4, CS3
Download and installation help for Adobe links
Download and installation help for Prodesigntools links are listed on most linked pages. They are critical; especially steps 1, 2 and 3. If you click a link that does not have those steps listed, open a second window using the Lightroom 3 link to see those 'Important Instructions'.

Hi there. I hoping for help. I am struggling with both...

hi there. I hoping for help.
I am struggling with both my WRT54G router set-up and i can't seem to use your online chat system. I hope that you can help.
I have just moved from Hong Kong to New Zealand and I'm trying to install my WRT54G, bought in Hong Kong, to connect to a Telstra braodband internet connection, but when I follow the instruction CD-ROM I get to the point (number 6 - although this point is numbered 7 in the instructions?!?) when I have connected the router it then says it is checking my settings and then it asks me to put in a password. It then checks my system again and then asks me for the password again, and this repeatedly. I can't get past this point. Because this was happening I pushed the reset button on the back of the router, but it still asks me for a password (I have tried using admin as the password without success) and then goes through the check and asks me for the password again. Any help would be great.
Thanks.
Michael Anthony

What windows OS are you running? It may have not installed correctly.
First go to control panel in start menu, then add/remove programs. it should be in there.
If you do not see it there then go to programs files and see if it is there. if so you can delete the folder it is in, then run disk clean up.
By manually setting up did this work? would like to know the end results.

Hoping for a quick response : EXP and Archived REDO log files

I apologize in advance if this question has been asked and answered 100 times. I admit I didn't search, I don't have time. I'm leaving on vacation tomorrow, and I need to know if I'm correct about something to do with backup / restore.
we have 10g R2 running a single instance on a single server. The application vendor has "embedded" oracle with their application. The vendor's backup is a batch file using EXP - thus:
exp system/xpwdxx@db full=y file=D:\Orant\admin\db\EXP\db_full.dmp log=D:\Orant\admin\db\EXP\db_full.txt direct=y compress=y
This command is executed nightly at midnight. The files are then backed up by our nightly backup to offsite storage media.
Te database is running in autoarchive mode. The problem is, the archived redo files filled the drive they were being stored on, and it is the drive the database is on. I used OS commands to move 136G of archived redo logs onto other storage media to free the drive.
My question: Since the EXP runs at midnight, when there is likely NO activity, do I need to run in AutoArchive Mode? From what I have read, you cannot even apply archived redo log files to this type of backup strategy (IMP) Is that true? We are ok losing changes since our last EXP. I have read a lot of stuff about restoring consistent vs. inconsistent, and just need to know: If my disk fails, and I have to start with a clean install of Oracle and nothing else, can I IMP this EXP and get back up and running as of the last EXP? Or do I need the autoarchived redo log files back to July 2009 (136G of them).
Hoping for a quick response
Best Regards, and thanks in advance
Bruce Davis

Bruce Davis wrote:
Amardeep Sidhu
Thank you for your quick reply. I am reading in the other responses that since I am using EXP without consistent=y, I might not even have a backup. The application vendor said that with this dmp file they can restore us to the most recent backup. I don't really care for this strategy as it is untested. I asked them to verify that they could restore us and they said they tested the dmp file and it was OK.
Thank you for taking the time to reply.
Best Regards
BruceThe dump file is probably ok in the sense it is not corrupted and can be used in an imp operation. That doesn't mean the data in it is transactionally consistent. And to use it at all, you have to have a database up and running. If the database is physically corrupted, you'll have to rebuild a new database from scratch before you can even think about using your dmp file.
Vendors never understand databases. I once had a vendor tell me that Oracle's performance would be intolerable if there were more than 5 concurrent connections. Well, maybe in HIS product ..... Discussions terminated quickly after he made that statement.

I recently switched from years of PC to iMac ( OSX 10.7.5) and need to batch convert thousands of old WordPerfect files (many without an apparent file extension) into my new Microsoft 2011 Word. I am a computer nitwit and am hoping for some simple sol'n.

I recently switched from years of PC to iMac ( OSX 10.7.5) and need to batch convert thousands of old WordPerfect files (many without an apparent file extension) into my new Microsoft 2011 Word. I am a computer nitwit and am hoping for some simple solution.

Try reindexing the mailbox. This can take awhile if you have a lot of mail.
Reindex messages.
If that doesn't work try deleting MessageUidsAlreadyDownloaded3.
Quit the application.
You need to look in your user Library. Either hold down the option key while using the Finder “Go To Folder” command and select your user Library in your home folder or use the Finder “Go To Folder” command and enter ~/Library/Mail/V2/Mail Data/MessageUidsAlreadyDownloaded3. Move the file to your desktop.
Open the application and test. If it works okay, delete the file from the desktop.
If the application is the same, return thefile to where you got it from, overwriting the newer ones.
If you prefer to make your User library permanently visible, use the Terminal command found below.
Show User Library
You might want to bookmark the command. I had to use it again after I installed 10.8.5. I have also been informed that if you drag the user library to Finder it will remain visible.

Hoping for a better docking solution for pen

I was really close to buying a Thinkpad 10, but eventually got the old Thinkpad Tablet 2 instead. One of my primary mobile applications is making annotations on PDFs while reading them, so the pen is really important. At the time the whole device should be light enough to effortlessly carry it on the run. Although the new pen may be better than the good old "toothpick", it just does not fit into the device and may get lost easily. Besides I just hate when things are scattered in pieces. I have also looked for a hard case sleeve with a full size compartment for the pen but have not found any.
So what I am hoping for is that the new product iteration will either have a version that can house the pen within the device or have a optional lightweight sleeve that can entirely house the pen. The current solution for Tablet and Helix is just clumsy at best.

Hi, Audrey,
quote:
Before that, though, does anyone have any suggestions for
working around the CHM search limitations?
If you can educate your users to add wildcards to their
search terms, they can find all the words that you provided as
examples in your message. For example, searching for
auto* will find
AutoComments,
[Auto Release],
[AutoCap],
auto-run, and
[Autocomment].
See this article for more information:
http://helpware.net/htmlhelp/hhfindingtext.htm
Pete

Hoping for a new version of software for s60v5 pho...

Sir,
We are hoping for a new version of s60v5 devices. It seems now nokia only concentrates on Lumia & Belle devices.
And what about s60v5 devices. We are still running on V 51.1.002. Its now an old version & we are using it from last 1.5 years. It seems nokia had forgot that they also had manufactured s60v5 devices a year ago.
We need that please provide a new software version.

adrianhughes wrote:
Not gonna happen mate. Most Nokia devices received a year to year and a half, and some devices, three years, worth of support and firmware updates. The focus now is on Asha and Lumia devices, and not older devices such as S60 5th Edition and Nokia Belle. Symbian is now in maintenance mode, so it is extremely unlikely that any more updates will be seen for these devices.
If you are taking about S60 v5.0, I tend to agree. However, I wouldn't be suprised if there were some updates for the C5-03 and derivatives (C5-04/05/06) still coming. Nothing major for sure, but perhaps some bug fixes. As for Belle devices; probably there will be some updates for the 808 PV and possibly also for the 603, 700 and 701.
As for Nokia not having any people working for Symbian: that has been technically true for a year now, since Symbian development was outsourced to Accenture along with the staff. As far as I know there are still some people working on Symbian at Accenture, although they concentrate mostly on bug fixes and the like at this point.
Mobile phones: 3310, 3510i¹
Smartphones: N70¹, N82, E50¹, 6220 Classic¹, 6710s Navigator¹, X6-00, N97 mini¹, 700¹, Asha 311¹, Lumia 710¹, Asha 503¹
In the family: C2-01¹, Asha 303¹, 301¹
¹ Still in working condition

I'm hoping for Nokia to use Android OS.

Greetings! I am one of those who's hoping for something new for Nokia. I think it is better if Nokia will try to use the Android, or Android-like Symbian OS in their future phones. Please don't think that I don't like Nokia. I'm using N8, and I think it's better if it is running on Android. It has almost the perfect features for me. I would be open to recieve any comments or reactions. God bless and keep up the good work Nokia!

Hello there!
I don't really think Nokia would make phones with Android OS in it.
Nokia Belle has almost similarity with Android, especially with that pull-bar notification bar.
After all, Android is quite laggy, my friend's S3 keeps lagging with games installed (But not open). Jellybean will probably fix that, but not too sure about it.
And hey, at least Windows Phone are smoother on less capable hardware!
If you want Android, only because you want those hundred thousands of apps, Windows Phone Store is also expanding and have been doing very good now.
After all, who needs so much apps say...1000?
If I have helped you in any way, give me a kudos!

Hoping for detailed help w/ Podcast/Zen Micro/ Windows Media 10.

Can someone please outline what steps are necessary for someone with a 5gig Zen Micro & Windows Media 0 to download (specifically) and eventually listen to podcasts on my Zen Micro.
I'm hoping for something like; You need these 3 things.....first you....second you....finally.... (hopefully there are only that many steps!)
If it is already on the board, just a cut and paste response is great....or a link to the conversation.
Thanks very much for your 'non technical'/ 'dummies' style explanation.
Cheers,

Windows Media Player 0 help files are very well done, and perhaps your answer is in there...
But as for folder creation: WMP0 arranges your music as Artist\Album\Song.mp3, doesn't matter how you have it structured on your computer, WMP0 will arrange it like that. If you use Windows Explorer then it will keep the same arrangement as your computer, like you already know.
Despite this arrangement, if you still want WMP0 to make folders on your player then:
Connect the Micro
Open up WMP0
Click on Tools-> Options
Click on Devices tab
Select your player and click Properties
Under the Synchronization tab check the box for <i>Create folder hierarchy on device</i>
As for playlist creation, WMP0 will only transfer playlists using the Auto-sync options. If you select which songs to transfer over then it will not transfer that playlist, just the songs inside it. To make a playlist you will have to use Zen Media Explorer, or whatever program that supports it like Media Source, or even make them manually on the player itself.

DMVPN and %DMVPN-3-DMVPN_NHRP_ERROR: Tunnel0: NHRP Encap Error for Resolution Request , Reason: protocol generic error (7) Error

%DMVPN-3-DMVPN_NHRP_ERROR: Tunnel0: NHRP Encap Error for Resolution Request , Reason: protocol generic error (7)
I had pre-allocated tunnel ip's to remote spokes , some of them were implemented and put into production. Some of them got the config but the tunnel interfaces were left at shut.
Its because of this reason that the DMVPN HUB keeps getting nhrp request from one of the inactive spokes. Following is the sh ip nhrp extract :-
10.x.x22/32
   Tunnel0 created 00:02:58, expire 00:00:06
   Type: incomplete, Flags: negative
   Cache hits: 7
I just cant seem to find the spoke WAN ip to identify it. I tried debugs but just cant get it.
From HUB:-
Nov 30 10:36:31: %DMVPN-3-DMVPN_NHRP_ERROR: Tunnel0: NHRP Encap Error for Resolution Request , Reason: protocol generic error (7) on (Tunnel: 10.x.x.1 NBMA: 20.x.x.x)
Nov 30 10:36:32: NHRP: Send Resolution Request via Tunnel0 vrf 0, packet size: 86
Nov 30 10:36:32: (F) afn: IPv4(1), type: IP(800), hop: 255, ver: 1
Nov 30 10:36:32:      shtl: 4(NSAP), sstl: 0(NSAP)
Nov 30 10:36:32:      pktsz: 86 extoff: 52
Nov 30 10:36:32: (M) flags: "router auth src-stable nat ", reqid: 46113
Nov 30 10:36:32:      src NBMA: 20.x.x.x.
Nov 30 10:36:32:      src protocol: 10.x.x.1, dst protocol: 10.x.x.22
Nov 30 10:36:32: (C-1) code: no error(0)
Nov 30 10:36:32:        prefix: 32, mtu: 17912, hd_time: 360
Nov 30 10:36:32:        addr_len: 0(NSAP), subaddr_len: 0(NSAP), proto_len: 0, pref: 0 Nov 30 10:36:31: %DMVPN-3-DMVPN_NHRP_ERROR: Tunnel0: NHRP Encap Error for Resolution Request , Reason: protocol generic error (7) on (Tunnel: 10.x.x.1 NBMA: 20.x.x.x)
So my question is , How do i find out the spoke wan ip , so i can do something about it. For now, its just filling up my logs on HUb router...not good ;-))

Hello Marcin,
If tunnel interface is shut no NHRP activity should be going, on top, in debugs you point the hub is sending resolution request, not receiving it.
Agree, I expected the same, but unfortunately this is not the case. Spoke does sent out NHRP requests even with Tunnel status as admin shut.
If your hub does not have NHS, it will not know where to send it's resolution request.
I am still on DMVPN Phase 1, so Spokes dont talk to other spokes yet.
Are you positive that there is nothing that is sending packets towards 10.x.x.22 on hub side (sniffer trace of classyfing ACL on "LAN")?
Other then a spoke, it cant be anthing, as the subnet is dedicted for tunnel interface's.
If you know it's not a misconfig and there is no traffic on hub side initiated to 10.x.x.22, try removing and adding full tunnel configuration. i.e. we want to make sure that crypto socket gets closed and restrated.
I can do this over weekend, but i am sure this is not going to fix the problem, reason being, that the HUB was setup before anything else and then we started migrating spokes from primary legacy gre tunnels to dmvpn tunnel as primary and legacy as a backup.
Guess, I am still looking for the answer...Is there a WAN acl that i can use to filter the successfully migrated spokes and log the deny message as in to know what remote wan ip carries along the tunnel ip of .22 or any other debug ??

Hoping for specifics- Moving hosting, leaving email alone

I am hoping for a specific tutorial. Perhaps it's been said before and I have read many Going Live tutorials, however, I am nervous about moving things and minimizing the down time for my client.
Details;
Her Registrar is at GoDaddy.com
Her hosting is at XYZ.com (name changed for security reasons). (The DNS Servers on GoDaddy clearly point to XYZ's Nameservers)
XYZ.com also hosts her email
She wants to move the HOSTING ONLY to BC, and kept the email UNTOUCHED and at XYZ.com
XYZ Host has said they can split the host and email.
Can someone please provide me with a very basic step by step way to accomplish this, with specics.
First-
What exact steps do I need to take at GoDaddy
Then at Business Catalyst?
(or should I do it in reverse?)

I just wanted to cycle back, just in case anyone else has questions like mine.
I found a different forum that explained things to me in a way which helped me understand more than I ever have and understand in a way which helped me feel confident in getting things done.
Thanks to those who were patient with me when I was asking questions, which now, I know were redundant.
In the end, this is what I did to get my client's Hosting over to BC, leave the email alone without any down time in the email.
Step 1-Upgraded her site in Business Catalyst and set it up.
I left the DNS and email to be hosted externally.
Step 2- I emailed XYZ Host, (Cced my client) and asked him CHANGE the A records to new BC site- asking him to include 3 records *.sitename.com, www.sitename.com, and sitename.com -- and provided him with BC's IP address for US servers. (which according to BC site is - 192.150.2.140 for sites on the United States data center)
Step 3- I did nothing on GoDaddy, and allowed it to be a "pass through"- which pointed everything to XYZ Host (he has the DNS settings still) , which then pointed traffic and hosting to BC, and left the email untouched.
I decided to go this route instead of re-delegating the DNS to have it pointed to BC (or moved back to Godaddy- and have the A records go to BC, and the MX to Email), because my client was MOST nervous about ANY email downtime, as her business is dependant in LARGE part to constant interaction with her clients. This allowed the email to go untouched.
I finally understood it like this- the DNS (Nameservers) is the guy with the control. He holds the keys... so to speak. Moving those keys (Pointing the Nameservers) back to GoDaddy or BC, in my mind would have potentially left my client without email for a few hours, which was very undesireable. So I left the keys in the hands of the Email Hoster, and just asked him to put a road sign up pointing web traffic to BC (The A Records).
Liam- looking back, this is exactly what you said, I just didn't understand it then. Now I do. For me, drawing a picture, or using allegory works best. (Hope it works for others as well.)
Again, thanks all.

Hello everyone, hoping for some help with my new Apple Cinema Display 20"

Hi everyone, I bought an Apple Cinema Display 20 inch LCD monitor, just about 3 weeks ago. I have two issues I am hoping to get some help with.
1) I am using the screen on a PC with Windows XP, and I was very disappointed at the lack of PC support. I have no on screen display (OSD), so I can't see what percentage I have my brightness set to, and I can't alter the colour or contrast of the display, etc. Luckily it defaulted to very good settings, but I would really like to be able to use the (fan made?) program called "WinACD". If I would be best asking somewhere else, please direct me there. If not, my problem is that I installed it added the "Controls" tab, but it just says, Virtual Control Panel "None Present". I have tried googling for an answer, and I have seen many suggestions, but none of them worked. I installed the WinACD driver without my USB lead plugged in, and someone said that was important. So I have tried uninstalling, rebooting, then reinstalling it again with the USB plugged in, and a device plugged in to my monitor to be sure. It didn't seem to help. I have actually done this process a few times, just to be sure. So I would really like to get that working if possible.
2) I am disappointed at the uniformity of the colour on the display. I have seen other people mention this (again, after a google search), and that someone seemed to think it is just an issue we have to deal with, with this generation of LCD monitors. Before I bought this screen, I had an NEC (20wgx2), and it had a very similar issue. Most of the time, you cannot see any problem at all, but if you display an entire screen with a dark (none prime) colour, like a dark blue green colour, you can see areas where it is slightly darker than others. It was more defined on the NEC screen, and that is why I returned it. I now bought this Apple Cinema Display, because it was the only good alternative to the NEC. (It has an 8bit S-IPS / AS-IPS panel, which was important to me). But the problem exists in this screen too. It isn't as bad thankfully, but it still exists... I have actually tried a third monitor just to be sure, and the problem existed very slightly in that one, so I think I am probably quite sensitive in that I can detect it.
It is most noticable to me, because I do everything on this PC. I work, I watch films, and I play games. 99% of the time, I cannot see this problem. But in some games (especially one)... the problem is quite noticeable. When you pan the view around, my eyes are drawn to the slight areas on my screen which are darker, and it ruins my enjoyment. To confirm it wasn't just the game, like I said, I can use a program to make the entire screen display one solid colour, and if you pick the right type of colour (anything that isn't a bright primary colour), I can see the problem - albeit fairly faintly.
I am pretty positive that it is not my graphics card or any other component of my PC, by the way, because everything is brand new and working perfectly, and the graphics card specifically, I have upgraded and yet the problem remains - even on the new card. Also, the areas that are darker, are different on this screen than on the other screens I have used.
So basically, I would like to register my disappointment at the lack of perfect uniformity on a screen which cost me £400 (over double what most 20 inch LCD screens cost), and I would like to know if anybody could possibly suggest a way to fix it?
It is upsetting, becuase although this problem exists on other screens too, this is, as far as I know, the most expensive 20" LCD monitor available today, and uses the best technology available too.
p.s. If anyone would like to use the program that lets you set your entire PC screen a specific colour, it is called "Dead Pixel Buddy", and it is a free piece of software, made by somebody to check for dead pixels. But I found it useful for other things too, including looking at how uniform the colour of the screen is. That's not to say I was specifically looking for this problem by the way... the problem cought my eye.
Thanks in advance!
Message was edited by: telelove

I've been talking about this on another forum too, and I made some pictures in photoshop to describe the problem. Here is what I posted on the other forum:
Yes, "brightness uniformity" definitely seems to be the best description of my issue.
Basically it just seems like there are very faint lines down the screen, that are slightly darker than the other areas on the screen. They aren't defined lines, and they aren't in a pattern. It's just slight areas that are darker, and the areas seem like narrow bands/lines. Usually you can't see it, but in some cases, it is quite noticeable. It is mainly when I'm playing a game. The slightly darker areas are not visible, and then when the image moves (because I am turning in a car, or turning a plane, or turning in a shooter etc.) the image moves, but these slightly darker areas stay still, and that makes them really stand out.
As for how it looks, I tried to make an example in photoshop:
Original Image:
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/3045/td1ja9.jpg
Then imagine turning the car around a bend, and then it looks like this:
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/959/td2hq7.jpg
It's those lines in the clouds. If you can tab between the two images, you can see the difference easily. Imagine seeing those lines appear, every single time you move in a game. (I haven't tested this in movies yet, but I am assuming it's the same).
It isn't very clear on a static image. But when the image moves, the darker areas stay in the same place and it draws your eyes towards them. It isn't terrible, but it is annoying, especially consider how much this screen cost.
Message was edited by: telelove

I don't want to buy a new one just yet hoping for some magic

Hi folks my 4 year old imac 20" I believe died on me. I can't believe it. I read everything there is to read, bad caps, bad PSU caps, apple warranty extension. Mine falls within that serial# but apple folks said no it's 4 years. $1799 for 4 years of service just not right. I'm using a 8 years old Win laptop to type this. All was going well till from sleep the imac sounded it was ready for takeoff. I did a hard shut down. (it would not wake) I tried everything but she won't boot. Actually it has booted on occasion but after a while would hard freeze. Followed by hard shutdown, then not booting. During the no boot fans will blast after some 30 second or so. So I take the cover off to start troubleshooting. Apple says its logic board problem. There is no way I'm paying $900 for a new board. I see nothing in the caps that would indicate to replace them. PSU is also fine based on the LED code. LED1 and LED2 light up, so that indicates PSU is working correctly. Its LED3 that will not turn on. I took out the inverter to inspect and again it looks brand new. No smells, burnt sightings, kinked wires....nothing. When it booted I did all the reset key stuff, didn't help. One note before it booted it beeped once. After that beep, I know it will boot. I'm not sure what that beep means. I can't get it to beep again. No chime or bong. However the power light will stay on sometimes or not turn on at all while not booting. I disconnected the ambient sensor, hoping that would do it, and no. Other things I've done is upgrade the HD and memory a while back. I don't believe its an issue cause these were working for a few months before hand, and I put back the original working 512K dimm to test, and all is same.
Here are my questions.
1. What else can i check?
2. How to test the inverter to make sure it works correctly? I'm hoping its that.
3. Can the power light have anything to do with it sensor there maybe?? I know I'm reaching here..
I'm just hoping someone can give me other clues. Like I said 4 years for $1800 is not right. One disturbing thing is apple thinks I got more years then I should have with it. Sorry, I like apple but totally disagree on that. If someone had told me that when I bought it, I would ran the other way real fast.

carl s. wrote:
I read everything there is to read, bad caps, bad PSU caps, apple warranty extension. Mine falls within that serial# but apple folks said no it's 4 years.
Are you sure about the serial number & warranty extension? To my knowledge, it was only first generation iMac G5's involved in the 'bad cap' warranty extension & yours sounds like a 2nd generation one (the Ambient Light Sensor version).
As it happens, I have been having similar problems with my iMac G5 ALS model, also about 4 years old. (Note: you may want to skim the next several paragraphs, which describe it in detail, & focus on the conclusion at the end.)
First, for several months it would sometimes not wake from sleep from the keyboard. When this happened, plugging & unplugging the keyboard USB connector would sometimes wake it, then the problem progressed & that wouldn't work but unplugging or plugging in an iPod Shuffle would wake it. Then it got to the point that it would go into a weird 'half-sleep' mode -- everything seemed to be sleeping & the screen was dark but I could hear the fans & hard drive running & the power light was not pulsing but off. At that point not even holding down the power button would do anything but pulling the power cord & plugging it back in would shut the computer down, after which it would start & run normally.
This went on for about 2 weeks, then the display started having persistent artifacts consistent with bad video RAM -- the pointer was surrounded by a hatched pattern, windows by multiple horizontal lines, & Dock & menu bar were overlaid with a grey window-screen-like pattern. Booting into Target Disk Mode or the Apple Hardware Test resulted in vertical broken lines throughout the screen & sure enough, AHT said everything was OK except video RAM -- I couldn't read the result code because of the vertical lines.
This iMac was just being used at the time by my wife for email & she gamely said she could live with the display artifacts, since email windows were displayed cleanly, so for about 10 days that's what we did, pulling the power cord as needed to get the Mac out of its weird 'half-sleep' mode when that occurred. I had & periodically continued to try resetting the SMU & PRAM, emptying caches, etc., & running Disk Utility's Verify Disk check, all to no effect.
Then 2 days ago, I noticed the weirdest behavior yet: the iMac appeared to be sleeping (power light pulsing) but an attached iPod Shuffle's light was flashing orange, indicating it was mounted & should not be disconnected. On closer examination, I noticed that the fans were not running but the back of the case was very, very hot. I pulled the power plug & opened the case to discover that the CPU shroud was too hot to touch! Trying the internal power switch diagnostic immediately lit LED 4, the over-temperature indicator so I left the Mac on its face with the cover off to cool down.
To my relief, 20 minutes later hitting the internal power switch resulted in a normal startup chime & LED's 1 through 3 lighting up in the normal way. I closed it up & tried the normal startup but it hung at the grey screen with the spinner. Since this iMac had two partitions, one for Leopard as the default & one for Tiger, I restarted & with the option key selected the Tiger partition.
Amazingly, not only did it start up perfectly into Tiger but there was no trace of video artifacts. I discovered that the Leopard partition now had an unrepairable 'bad thread count' error, even though all previous checks with Disk Utility had shown no problems. I restored the Leopard partition from a Time Machine backup, restarted into it & since then everything has worked perfectly, even to the point that AHT can now find no video RAM or any other problems.
Conclusion: I have no idea what happened or why everything is working perfectly now. It seems impossible that any software change could fix a hardware problem. The persistent video RAM issue occurred even when booting from the AHT & installer discs, which should rule out any problem with the version of the OS installed on the hard drive. I have no faith that this iMac won't start displaying power/sleep/video issues again, but try as I might I can no longer find any sign of any problems.
My half-baked hypothesis for now is that the severe over temperature condition somehow cooked out whatever hardware problem caused it, & in so doing "cured" the other problems, too. This makes almost no sense, except for one thing: I noticed two slightly bulging capacitors on the motherboard that I don't think were there some months back when I last opened the case. A partial failure mode for a "popped" electrolytic capacitor is that this lets moisture into it, partially shorting it out. It is remotely possible that the moisture was cooked out of these two caps & that is why it is working OK now ... maybe.
Anyway, because of this, I suggest that you look very carefully at all the black electrolytic capacitors on your motherboard, checking for even the slightest sign of bulging or separation of the three sections of their metal tops along the Y-shaped score lines. Even if your # 1 & 2 LED's are lighting up, you may have a power related problem caused by these capacitors being bad. If so, it may be that a technician can replace them & get your iMac working again without an expensive logic board replacement.

HOPING FOR RESOLUTION

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for