How can I reduce movie file size?

In the previous version of iMovie it was possible to significantly reduce file size in order to post it on a webpage.  I'm not seeing those options in the new version of iMovie.  Am I missing something?  It's simply impractical to try to post very large files for perhaps a one minute video.  Tom

First up 1024 x 768 is a little bizarre, that's neither PAL nor NTSC!
Widescreen video on a computer display is 1040 x 576 (for square pixels).
If you want to make it auto run on a DVD it will be scaled to fit because DVD's don't play video back at anything other than PAL or NTSC resolution. For a computer display (which would be much better for this strange resolution) then use QTPro or FCP to export it using the H264 Codec or Sorenson 3 and this will compress it. Compressing without reducing quality is not going to happen, it just depends on how much you compress it and how much you don't notice the difference, compression by definition is lossy. I would keep the video bit rate up above 1000 kbps.

Similar Messages

  • How can I reduce the file size of 3 videos?...

    ...without losing quality? These three videos are as follows in terms of size and length of the video:
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    I tried using a video converter to reduce the bit rate in order to reduce the size, which i know affects the quality, but that did not actually work to reduce the file size this time.
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    I think that the point that David was trying to make is that reducing the amount of information originally provided by a product or part of it in order to make it smaller will inevitably reduce the efficiency of the product itself.
    However, you don't have access to the original masters? Then you might be after a good compromise, meaning a video that can display decent quality while playing at its original frame size (say on the web).
    Does this mean that there is no real way to reduce the size without losing quality?
    If your target is the web there is a way to reduce the file size and still make it look decent enough. Re-compression means loss of source information but video compression is an art on its own and can produce some amazing results!
    Not without testing though.
    Now back to my previous post, use Compressor to try to reduce the file size and compare the result quality. Trust your eyes and be honest with yourself.

  • How can I reduce the file size when saving a psd as a pdf

    I have a psd with graphics and text, it is 8.5 x 11, 300 ppi
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    In compression, I have tried a dozen different combinations and the way I've found to get a document that is not pixelated or blurry is to use jpeg 2000 > lossless or jpeg > maximum.
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    I have downloaded other people's documents of the exact same type and size (8.5 x 11, 300 ppi) that I am making and viewed them in Photoshop, they are not pixelated or blurry and their file sizes are 300 kb or even less than 200 kb
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    Delete all unused, invisible layers.
    Sometimes zip compression is better than jpg compression (in the pdf output settings). Zip is lossless, and works better with non gradient colour or no images.
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  • How can I reduce the file size of a pdf when exporting?

    I don't want to just choose between high quality print or smallest file size.
    I want to export it from 60MB to 40MB.
    Can I do this manually? When I use smallest file size the quality is too low and the content looks bad.
    But high quality print exports my PDF at 60MB which is too big.

    You cannot simply legislate the size of a PDF file. If you content is primarily text and vector, there is not much at all you can do to reduce PDF file size other than to cut out content. Otherwise, the only other variables are those of downsampling and compressing the raster images from your content.
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  • How can I reduce the file size when PDF Optimizer does not do much?

    I have a PDF form that exists of 48 pages. 44 pages are forms / have form fields, the other 4 are just informative. Each form-page has approx. 80 fields (checkboxes, text fields).
    When I started setting up the PDF form the file size was 12 MB and I had placed fields on 21 pages. Then with 34 pages the file size was 19 MB. And with 40 pages it was 35 MB big! Finally with 44 pages the file size is 34 MB.
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    * Fonts:                24.556.810     70,08 %  !!
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    Thank you for your help!

    If you have authored the form, reduce the number of different fonts for the content and form fields.
    Any font used in a form field will cause that font to be embedded into the PDF.
    If you are going to Optimize the PDF be very careful with forms. Optimization does a lot of removal of items and rearranging of items which can really mess up forms.

  • How can I reduce the file size rendered by After Effects?

    When I render a relatively simple 5 second project in After Effects, the file size of the resultant .avi is 64MB.  If I change the properties to reduce the file size, the degradation makes the file unusable.  What am I doing wrong?

    Is AE's encoder really that inefficient? 
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  • How can I reduce the file size in Adobe Reader 9?

    My wordpress isn't allowing me to upload files larger than 2MB. How do I resize my PDF in Adobe Reader 9 so that it is <2MB?
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    In Acrobat, open a PDF file.
    -Choose Document > Reduce File Size.
    -Select Acrobat 8.0 And Later for file compatibility, and click OK.
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    It is always a good idea to save a file using a different name so that you don't overwrite an unmodified file.
    Acrobat automatically optimizes your PDF file, a process that may take a minute or two. Any anomalies are displayed in the Conversion Warnings window. If necessary, click OK to close the window.
    Minimize the Acrobat window. View the size of the reduced file. The file size is smaller.
    You can repeat steps stated above using different compatibility settings to see how they affect file size. note that some settings might actually increase the file size.
    PDF Optimizer offers more opportunities to control quality trade-offs.
    Choose File > Close to close your file.

  • How can I reduce the file size of my .cp project file?

    I am working in CP3 and creating training programs via computer simulations.  Generally I try to eliminate any unnecessary animation in my slide (use of scroll bars, drop down menus etc.) because these seemed to increase my file size.  I do have audio narration on almost every slide and I know that this helps to bump up my size.
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    Any help, as always is appreciated.

    Hi BIMB,
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    What you see as the file size under the Cp4 Storyboard View Information is what the published file size would be sans any unused pics, audio, or swfs. So it should be relatively small given you only have 3 slides in your project.
    What you see as the 'save as' version reflects all of the pics, audio, and/or .swfs you still have in your project's library.
    Now if you've actually removed the audio files and pics from the Cp Library, then I'm not sure.
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  • How can I reduce pdf file sizes on this site?

    We used to be able to reduce file size on acrobat - but I can't find tis function on any of the tabs… any thoughts?

    Hi Susan,
    here the english help for Learn & Support/Acrobat Help >>> http://helpx.adobe.com/acrobat/topics.html >>> Saving and exporting PDFs (or similar).
    What concerns my German link from above, you could insert this link into "Google translate" by clicking "translate"
    https://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F %2Fhelp.adobe.com%2Fde_DE%2Facrobat%2Fusing%2FWS58a04a822e3e50102bd615109794195ff-7c88.w.h tml&edit-text=
    it will look like this (see screenshot detail):
    Hans-Günter

  • How can I reduce video file size?

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    Thanks, Joost, but I see no setting for bandwidth. Here's what I see and the resulting (11 minute) file is 76 MB when the source file was less than 5MB. Output is down to 10fps and audio is mono and downsampled to AM-radio quality. Clearly I am not seeing something that I should see.

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  • When I import my Sony video, which is in m2ts format, the file size is a few times larger.  This affects the volume of clips for creating the blu-ray or DVD discs.  How can I squeeze the file size without sacrificing the quality of output?

    When I import my Sony video, which is in m2ts format, the file size is a few times larger.  This affects the volume of clips for creating the blu-ray or DVD discs.  How can I squeeze the file size without sacrificing the quality of output?  Is there any other ways of achieving this?

    wongrayd wrote:
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    wongrayd wrote:
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  • How can I convert .mov files for use with other apps?

    When loading movies taken on a friend's digital camera to my PC, the video files were saved as Quicktime .mov files. I am now unable to pull those files into any other software program (I want to put them onto a CD or DVD and play on external players.) How can I convert .mov files to a .wmv or .avi or mpeg?
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    Kodak Digital Camera QuickTime MOV Problems
    After battling a number of serious problems with the videos taken by my new Kodak Digital Camera, I decided to write up this page so that anyone searching the web would find out the true answers without as much grief!
    I’ve also made some other comments about my experience with the camera, in case anyone was considering buying a Kodak camera in the near future.
    I bought the camera just before Christmas 2004 in the US. At the time of writing, it is a pretty good model for domestic use—about 5.2 megapixels, costing about US$400 (or AU$600 back here in Australia). From a company as reputable as Kodak, I expected no problems.
    The first disappointing thing was that the spring inside the spring-loaded battery clip, inside the camera, came loose within days. It proved impossible to reattach it without completely dismantling the camera, which (despite my engineering qualifications) I was not willing to do. This would usually have been a warranty item, but Kodak’s warranty does not extend to other countries. I’ve since had to jam cardboard in to keep the battery clip engaged, and have taped the battery bay shut to avoid it opening accidentally when taking the camera out of the case. This works fine with the docking station (an extra AU$100!), but it means I can no longer charge the battery without the docking station (since you need to take it out to charge it). I was not impressed!
    The camera takes good photos, and I have no complaint with that. The controls and camera menus are well-designed. The large display is excellent.
    The EasyShare software is not as easy to use as it looks, has a habit of crashing, has a web update program that is always running in the background of Windows, and transferring images is nowhere as easy or quick as it should be. I’ve now uninstalled it completely, and simply copy the photos directly from the device. (If the camera memory is nearly full, and you just want to transfer the last few photos, then it’s impossible to use the EasyShare software to browse the camera’s photos without it actually downloading the whole lot through the USB cable—and it takes forever! Copying from the device directly doesn’t hit this bug.)
    The capability to take video using the camera was a great attraction when I selected it, and, if it worked properly, it would make it quite a handy little camcorder in its own right. With a 512 MB memory card in it, over an hour of video can be recorded at Video-CD quality (320 x 240 24fps video, 8 kHz audio). It’s not full digital video, but it would still be a pretty good feature for a US$400 camera. If it worked.
    The first disappointing thing about taking videos is that the optical zoom cannot be adjusted while the camera is recording. It can only be adjusted between video sequences. I don’t know why this restriction was made in the design.
    The real problems, however, start when you try to do anything with the video clips captured by the camera. Kodak has chosen to capture the videos in QuickTime format. This is fine—QuickTime is, technically, excellent—except that there is no simple way to convert QuickTime MOV files to AVI or MPEG or VCD. The Kodak software comes with a QuickTime player, so you can see the video clips on the computer you installed the software on—and they look good. Problem is that you can’t just dump those MOV files onto your Video-CD creator (it will usually want AVI or MPEG files).
    It takes some time to realise that Kodak have not even bothered to include any software with the camera that can convert these MOV files to a more useful format. This is a serious PR blunder, and anyone bitten by this is unlikely to go near the Kodak brand ever again.
    After some web searching, owners of these cameras generally find that the best (only?) freeware solution to convert MOV to AVI is Bink and Smacker’s RADtools program.
    RADtools is amazingly powerful for the price (i.e. free), but it hits two fundamental problems with Kodak Digital Camera MOV video files, that are the fault of the Kodak camera, not RADtools. (I know this because every other MOV converter hits the same problems—except one, as you will see below.)
    The first problem is that the sound cannot be converted properly. When you convert any Kodak MOV files, there is an “aliasing” of the sound at the upper frequencies. This is a technical description—you get a whispery, tinny, C3PO type of echo to everything. It really destroys the quality of the video clips (especially bad when I am trying to capture priceless memories of my 4- and 7-year-old sons—I don’t want their voices destroyed for all time).
    Every conversion program I tried ended up with the same audio problem. I concluded that it is something strange in the way the Kodak cameras store the MOV files.
    Strangely enough, I noticed that the QuickTime player didn’t distort the audio like this. The audio sounds just fine through QuickTime. More on this shortly.
    The second, more serious problem is that RADtools could not properly convert some of the video clips at all. (This problem only affected less than 10% of the clips I originally filmed, but most of those clips were very short—less than 20 seconds. It seems that the probability of this problem gets worse, the longer the clip.) RADtools would misreport the number of frames in the clip, and would stretch out a small number of frames of video (in slow motion) to match the length of the audio.
    Again, I confirmed that this is a property of some of the MOV files stored by the camera. Other conversion tools also had problems with the same MOV clips.
    After more angst, I found a number of websites in which frustrated owners of these Kodak cameras have reported the exact same problems.
    It was only then that I discovered that QuickTime itself can convert MOV files to AVI. Believe it or not, it’s built into the QuickTime Player that Kodak supplies, or that you can download free from apple.com. The problem is that you can’t use it unless you pay Apple to upgrade to QuickTime Pro.
    After realising that this would probably be the only way to get decent audio for these clips, I paid the AU$59 to Apple Australia to get the licence key that enables the extra “Pro” menu options in QuickTime.
    Sure enough, you can “Export” any MOV file to a number of formats, including AVI. And guess what? The audio comes out fine!
    So, the first piece of advice I can give is: pay Apple the US$29 (or whatever amount it is in your country) to upgrade QuickTime to QuickTime Pro.
    From here, however, there are still a few snags to untangle.
    The first is that the default settings for Exporting to AVI don’t give a great result. It defaults to the Cinepak codec, medium quality. This looks terrible compared to the original QuickTime movie. Even on maximum quality, that codec just doesn’t give good results.
    I finally found that the best option is to use the Intel Indeo Video 4.4 codec, set on maximum quality. This creates AVI files that are 10 to 20 times larger than the original MOV files, but the quality is there. If (like me) you only want the AVI files so you can dump them into your Video-CD program, then you want to keep the quality as high as possible in this first step. The extra hard disk space is not really a concern. When your VCD program converts the AVI files to MPEG, it will compress them to the usual VCD size.
    Now for the biggest snag: those problem MOV files are still a problem, even for QuickTime Pro. Unbelievably, these Kodak cameras are spitting out MOV files which have some sort of technical flaw in their data specifications. QuickTime is able to play them back fine—and that seems to be all that the Kodak engineers really checked. However, if QuickTime Pro tries to export them, then when the progress bar gets to the end, it never finishes. It just keeps going. If you check the output folder with Explorer, and keep hitting F5 to update the file listing, you can see the file getting bigger, and bigger, and bigger. It never stops.
    That this happens even for QuickTime itself (the native format for these files) confirms that the problem is with the software built into these Kodak cameras. It would be nice it they issued a patch or a fix. I couldn’t find one.
    Fortunately, there is a “workaround” for this problem. I found it when trolling the net trying to find solutions to all these problems. The workaround is to use QuickTime Pro’s cut and paste facility. Open the problem MOV file, then press Ctrl-A (the standard key combination for “select all”—in this case it selects the entire film clip, as you can see by the grey selection of frames at the bottom of the player). Then hit Ctrl-C (i.e. copy, which in this case copies all the frames, but not the incorrect data structure in the original MOV file). Now hit Ctrl-N (i.e. new, in this case a new MOV file or player). In this new player, press Ctrl-V (i.e. paste). Now you have a new version of the MOV file with the bad data structure exorcised. You can save this under a new name, but make sure you specify “Make movie self-contained”—otherwise, it will simply be a link to the original (bad) MOV file, which you are probably going to delete once you save the exorcised version. (You also cannot overwrite the original file, because it needs to access that to make the “self-contained” movie. You need to give it a slightly different name, save it “self-contained”, then delete the original and rename the new copy back to what you wanted it to be. A pain, I agree, but at least the **** thing works—finally!)
    The exorcised MOV file can now be used to Export to AVI format. (I also keep all the MOV files on a separate CD, in case I want to reconvert them to a different format in the future. I figure it’s better keeping the exorcised ones than the haunted ones.)
    So I hope that all this answers a few of your questions. No, you weren’t being incredibly stupid.

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