How do I convert time lapse still images into a video in Premire Elements 13?

I have 250 images taken at 15 second intervals that I want to convert to a video. I am not having any luck finding how to get elements to put the single pictures together. After I import the images I can play them but have not been able to shorten the time each still plays. So It is like a slide shot and not time lapse.

Bobclarkfiber
Please read my blog post very details how to for Time Lapse video and Premiere Elements.
http://www.atr935.blogspot.com/2013/07/pe-time-lapse-video-basics.html
and my less preferred way
http://www.atr935.blogspot.com/2013/08/pe-numbered-stills-in-time-lapse-and.html
Please review and consider. If you have questions or need clarification on any of the above, please do not
hesitate to ask.
Thank you.
ATR

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Time-lapse Still Images

After two hours of reading on the web, I was unable to find any help for my problem. Perhaps someone out there has some knowledge to share.
I have several years worth of still images. The images were taken in 15 minute intervals. I need to display the images as a time-lapse movie with controls to step through each frame (still) or animate to time-lapse forward or in reverse. I would like to dynamically select the images corresponding to any date from a calendar component. A cover flow would be nice if it could somehow display the respective date with the image.
However the best method is for doing this, the result needs to function within a Flex application. I am just a beginner Flex developer so I need at least to know if this is feasible. All opinions are welcome.
Thanks!

Bobclarkfiber
Please read my blog post very details how to for Time Lapse video and Premiere Elements.
http://www.atr935.blogspot.com/2013/07/pe-time-lapse-video-basics.html
and my less preferred way
http://www.atr935.blogspot.com/2013/08/pe-numbered-stills-in-time-lapse-and.html
Please review and consider. If you have questions or need clarification on any of the above, please do not
hesitate to ask.
Thank you.
ATR

Converting Time-Lapse Stills to Motion

Hello All,
A friend of mine built a bridge on his property. He mounted a still camera in a tree, and had the camera take a picture ever 1/2 hour for 3 weeks. His desire is to create a time lapse film out of the pictures.
He has given me a disc with many pictures, and I'm looking for the most efficient way to handle them. For example, I wanted to reduce all of them to 3 seconds, as most of the time, there is no activity (all was dependent if something was happening on camera during that specific moment within the given half hour. I tried to adjust the duration of one, and paste those attributes to all, but that didn't work.
Any thoughts on handling this project with ease would be appreciated.
Cheers,
DG

Also search here for time lapse and timelapse. We've entertained lots of these threads.
Three seconds per image is not time lapse, it's inhumane. You want each frame to be one frame so thirty frames go by in one second.
You could bring your images into iPhoto and tell is to output 3 seconds per frame with a dissolve between each.
bogiesan

Turning still images into a video-help please!

Hello, I have Adobe Premiere Elements 10 editing system, and I am currently working a summer project. One of the things I would like to do is create a video from still images, but I am having a problem, because the images I chose and increased their time line look too choppy, but I want a more flow-ey look. What should the speed or duration be for each picture? Are there other effects that can assist the making of my still picture video? Also, I am up for any other suggestions others have on making a smooth, still image video. Thanks!

Neweditor16
I was not sure of my schedule for later this evening so I am going to post a sample scenario, assuming that you have Premiere Elements 10 on Windows 7 64 bit.
1. Place your 10 each at 3680 x 2760 4:3 pixels photos in sequence order in a desktop folder. Do not bother to resize them beforehand ONLY if your Windows 7 is 64 bit and not 32 bit and your installed RAM exceeds 4 GB.
2. Open Premiere Elements 10 and set the project preset for
NTSC
DSLR
1080p
DSLR 1080p30 @ 29.97
3. Go to Edit Menu/Preferences/General and remove the check mark next to the option "Default Scale to Frame Size".
4. Next, use Get Media/Files and Folder to bring your desktop folder into the Organize/Media area. From there drag the whole unopened folder to the start of Timeline Video Track 1. When you do, your 10 photos will be on the Timeline in the order that you placed them in the folder.
5. Click on Photo 1 to select it. Then go to Properties Palette/Motion Panel expanded and the Scale property. Set the Scale at 52.6%.
6. Go back to the Timeline and click on Photo 1 to select it. Go to Edit Menu, select Copy. Then select the other 9 photos (all at one time), right
click anywhere in the selection, and select and click on Paste Attributes.
7. To give a Timelapse effect to your 10 photos, you are going to decrease the duration of each photo. You do not want to be dealing in seconds, rather frames (1 to 5 frames which is 0.033 to 0.165 seconds in a 30 frames per second set up).
a. first we look at the effect with the photo duration of 5 frames...select all 10 photos all at one time....right click anywhere in the selection and select Timeline Stretch. In the Time Stretch dialog change duration from 00;00;05;00 (5 seconds) to 00;00;00;05 (5 frames equivalent to 0.165 seconds)...note the Timelapse effect that is achieved after you render the Timeline content by pressing the Enter key to get the best possible preview of the Timeline content played back in the Edit area monitor.
b. If you are not satisfied with "a", the repeat, but this time change the duration of all to 00;00;00;03 (3 frames equivalent to 0.150 seconds)...note the Timelapse
effect that is achieved after you render the Timeline by pressing the Enter key to get the best possible preview.
c. If you are not satisfied with "b", then repeat, but this time change to the lower possible set 00;00;00;01 (1 frame equivalent to 0.033 seconds)..note the Timelapse effect achieved after you render the Timeline by pressing the Enter key ot get the best possible preview.
See what that looks like. At this time, I would not bother with transitions. More than one transition placement at a time can be done by selecting all the photos and using Timeline Menu/Apply Default Transition. But, with such short duration photos, I would need to think about changing the transition default duration.
And, I see no point in pans and zooms with the short duration that are used.
These are some basic ideas about Timelapse in Premiere Elements.
ATR Premiere Elements Troubleshooting: PE: Time Lapse Video Basics
ATR Premiere Elements Troubleshooting: PE: Numbered Stills in Time Lapse and Other Animations
Notes: To select more than one clip at a time, you can hold down the Shift key and click each photo. Or, you can use the mouse cursor tip to draw a rectangle around the photos to select them.
Please let us know if any of this needs clarification.
Thank you.
ATR

Quick Time Pro Still images duration

I am using Quick Time Pro version 7.7.5 to edit video clips. I am adding a still image to the beginning of each clip for illustrative purposes but need to lengthen the amound of time the still image is displayed after it is attached to the video, preferably for about 5 seconds. How would I go about doing that?

This is where "add scaled" comes into play. A still image doesn't have any "time" but if you add it scaled to an audio track you can give it a duration.
Open any audio track in QuickTime Player Pro and make a five second selection. Paste that selection in a new player window and close the source file.
Make sure all of your image files match the dimensions used in your video before starting.
Open the first of your image files, select all (control-a) and copy (control-c).
Switch to the 5 second audio track, select all and "Add to Selection & Scale" from the Edit menu.
Open the Movie Properties window (Window menu) and "Extract" the video track. This is now your 5 second image file. Name and save the file and close the image audio mix file without saving.
Repeat for your other images.

How do i convert a portion of day into a time?

How do i convert a portion of day into a time, without dividing and modding the number myself?
For example, i calculated solar noon UTC to be .733409047. Adding that to the date gives the correct answer:
SQL> SELECT TO_DATE('1/1/2012', 'DD/MM/YYYY') + .733409047 FROM Dual;
TO_DATE('1/1/2012',
01/01/2012 17:36:07
A few questions, to actually understand this.
Is .733409047 implicitly converted? If so, to what datatype?
If i want HH:MM:SS does it need to be converted to a date, and then TO_CHAR? Or can the decimal be directly converted?
I'm currently trying to understand INTERVAL.
SQL> select interval '.5' day from dual;
select interval '.5' day from dual
ERROR at line 1:
ORA-01867: the interval is invalid
So, i'm obviously misunderstanding it. Can it be used here?

Hi,
Brian Tkatch wrote:
How do i convert a portion of day into a time, without dividing and modding the number myself?
For example, i calculated solar noon UTC to be .733409047. Adding that to the date gives the correct answer:
SQL> SELECT TO_DATE('1/1/2012', 'DD/MM/YYYY') + .733409047 FROM Dual;
TO_DATE('1/1/2012',
01/01/2012 17:36:07
A few questions, to actually understand this.
Is .733409047 implicitly converted? If so, to what datatype?No, there is no conversion going on here, just Date Arithmetic .
In Oracle, if d is a DATE and n is a NUMBER (not necessarily an integer, and not necessarily positive), d+n is the DATE that is n days later than d.
If i want HH:MM:SS does it need to be converted to a date, and then TO_CHAR? Or can the decimal be directly converted?Sorry, I don't understand. Are you saying that you want to do something like date arithmetic, but instead of using a number like .733409047 (meaning about .73 of a day), you want to pass a string like '17:36:07' (meaning 17 hours, 36 minutes and 7 seconds)? If so, INTERVAL DAY TO SECOND is probably your best bet. (It looks like you're already thinking along these lines.)
I'm currently trying to understand INTERVAL.
SQL> select interval '.5' day from dual;
select interval '.5' day from dual
ERROR at line 1:
ORA-01867: the interval is invalid
So, i'm obviously misunderstanding it. Can it be used here?You can only use integers like that. If you want to use any number, then use date arithmetic to add to (or subtract from) a DATE, or use NUMTIDSINTERVAL to produce an INTERVAL DAY TO SECOND:
SELECT NUMTODSINTERVAL (.733409047, 'DAY') AS intrvl
FROM dual;Output:
INTRVL
+000000000 17:36:06.541660800
I hope this answers your question.
If not, post a little sample data (CREATE TABLE and INSERT statements), maybe about 5 rows, and also post the results you want from that data.
Explain, using specific examples, how you get those results from that data.
Always say which version of Oracle you're using.

How can I take a still image from a video?

How can I take a still image from a video?

I'll assume you want to create a still to use outside FCPX, not a still frame within FCPX. It's kinda hidden in the "share." Go File/Share/Add Destination. You want "Save Current Frame." After you've created that destination, it'll be there for you in the future under Share.

Adjusting time for still images

Is there an easy way to import a series of still images into the timeline and make them all display for the same duration? OR does the time need to be adjusted on each individually?
Thanks.

Changing the default still duration only changes the duration of the master clips that imported to the project. You would have to re-import all the still after changing the default duration for this to work.
However, if you drop a bazillion stills into a timeline, you can select them all and choose a new duration, it will be applied to all of them, provided they all start out at the same duration.
Hope this helps -
Max Average

How do you create a still image from a video using IMovies 11?

How do you create a still image from a video using IMovies 11 on a Pro Mac?

The simplest way is to do a simple screen capture.

Large Still Images into PE - One Workflow

Everyone wants the highest quality that they can obtain when doing their videos. It’s natural to want the best. Well, when dealing with still images, bigger is not necessarily better, for two reasons. First, overly large still images can really tax a system and second, one is limited to the frame size of the video, so these have to be resized somewhere - this resizing can be in the NLE (Non Linear Editor) program, or in an image processing program like PS (Photoshop), which does a better job anyway. Doing this in PS, or PSE, will result in better resized images, and they are easier for the NLE to work with. Quality is as high as your Project’s Preset will allow, and you are more efficient, with fewer crashes, slowdowns and hangs. It is a win-win situation.
Here is my normal workflow when dealing with still images. This workflow is for NTSC 4:3 720x480 with a PAR (Pixel Aspect Ratio) of 0.9. If your Project’s Presets are different, use those specs to resize to.
Since I shoot my still images in RAW, I Copy my files from the CF card to my system and catalog these images by location, subject and date (if necessary). I’ll do a quick conversion and Save_As Adobe DNG for backup. I then process these RAW images in PS with the ARC (Adobe Raw Converter), correcting them and then doing a Save_As PSD into a sub-folder. All of this is in my still photo library.
Normally, I will edit these PSD’s to find the images that I wish to use in a Video Project, and will Copy the selected images to another folder. You’ll see that I work with a lot of Copies, so my original files are always untouched and stored elsewhere. This guards against anything happening to them.
At this point, I’ll decide how I wish to use these selected images in my Video Project. Let’s just say that they are all horizontal images, and are still full-size from my camera. As stated, my Video Projects are DV-NTSC 4:3 720x480 PAR 0.9. [Remember, your Video Project may vary, so you will need to plug in the dimensions for YOUR Video Project in that case.] I also will have done my Cropping on each image individually, to get them to 4:3 Aspect Ratio. I do this my eye and by hand, rather than via an Action, because I want full aesthetic control.
In PS, I have a set of Actions for Video. An Action is like a Script, but less powerful and less involved in the writing. As I have already done all of my image enhancements and additional processing before I did my Copy to the selected folder, I only have to worry about my Action resizing these selected images for use in my Video Project. My Action here is to resize to 720x480 with a PAR of 0.9, and I normally use the Action that does this with a particular resizing algorithm, Bicubic-Smoother (though I also use Bicubic-Sharper on occasion).
For the next step, I go to my folder structure (remember, this folder contains copies of my selected still images in PSD format), and create a new sub-folder "[Project Name]_720x480." Back in PS, I choose File>Automate>Batch. Here I set my Source Folder, my Destination folder and the Action to perform. In my case, it’ll be the Destination Folder, that I just created, [Project Name]_720x480, and my Action will be my NTSC 4:3 720x480 Smooth. I check to have the Open command by-passed, because I do not need to see this take place on my monitor. When I hit OK, PS grabs all files in my Source Folder, runs the commands of my Action and does a Save_As for all files into my Destination Folder. I can process hundreds of large images down to a great 720x480 PAR 0.9 via Bicubic-Smoother interpolation, in moments. Now, I’m ready to go. Last, I Copy my Destination Folder to my Video Project’s folder hierarchy (usually on another HDD), and then Import these processed stills into my NLE.
What if I need to pan on one, or more of these images, while they are zoomed out completely? I don’t have enough pixels in my horizontal dimension to do this. I am just filling the frame with my still. Well, if I find that there are such images, I go back to my folder with the full sized images in my still images library, and select the ones that need to be larger. I run another Action on these, but it’s one that resizes to something larger than 720x480, say 1000x750. Now, I have another Destination Folder with the name [File Name]_1000x750. I’ll Copy this over to my Video Project, and Import these into the NLE. Here, I can go to Project Panel and remove the 720x480 versions if I so choose, but since a Premiere Project file (.PRPROJ or .PREL) is only an XML database, I may just leave them. It does not contain any media files, just links to where they are on the system and to what operations are performed on them.
By doing my resizing in PS, rather than in Premiere, I have accomplished two things:
1.) I have better quality resized images, using the algorithms in PS, plus have a choice of several interpolation methods to work with.
2.) I have lessened the processing load on my NLE and on my system, while doing the editing
I get higher quality and lower resource overhead - hence my reference to "win-win."
Now, back to my aesthetic control. I do not do any automatic zooming or panning. If one allows the NLE to do this, then they will want to probably process all of their images to 1000x750 (remember, this is for an NTSC 4:3 Project, so you will need to calculate what YOUR Project will require).
The two programs that I use are Photoshop and Premiere Pro, but Photoshop Elements can do the same things, though the exact commands might be different. Premiere Elements will handle the resized still images, just like Premiere Pro and the only difference will be the terminology used when one wishes to Import the still images.
I also keep all of my images in .PSD (the native format of PS), and do not convert to JPEG, or other. If one’s camera shoots only JPEG, I suggest writing the Action to do the Save_As to .PSD, as another JPEG compression will cost one quality. Yes, the JPEG’s will be smaller, but remember we are looking for the ultimate quality, so larger file sizes are just part of that equation.
One does not have to deal with all of the Copies, as I do. However, this allows me to go back to the originals, or to the processed full-sized .PSD’s at any step along the way. There is only one thing worse than not being able to go back to an intermediate version with full Layers and Adjustment Layers, plus any Alpha Channels, and that is finding out that you’ve lost your original RAW and DNG backups! That’s why I do a lot of Save_As and also work from Copies all along the way.
Hunt

Your workflow looks good. I do similar, but use PS, in lieu of LightRoom. I also do DNG's for my archives.
Provided that one chooses a JPEG compression algorithm setting that does not do too much compression, I doubt that anyone, but the most very critical, could tell the difference in Video. Most of my tests on PSD vs JPEG have been for print. There, one can more easily detect the differences. Video "hides" some of that.
To date, I have not had a Project where the Asset size differences between equally sized PSD's vs JPEG's caused any slowdown, or problem. There could be a resources savings with the smaller JPEG files, but there is a tiny bit of overhead dealing with the JPEG compression. I have never tested this, so can only guess that the smaller Asset size of the JPEG would trump that overhead - just a guess on my part.
For me, keeping the images in PSD does save a tiny bit of work in my Action (basically one less operation to perform), but I doubt that one could measure that time difference, even over the automation of hundreds of images. Besides, it's only one additional line in the Action. My feelings on JPEG vs PSD is firmly based in my print experience, and I am probably being too critical with images going to video. When I move up to HD and BD authoring, I need to apply a very critical eye, to see if I can tell the differences on an HD TV. So long as one does not apply too much JPEG compression, the differences should be very slight, at the worst, and maybe not even noticed, at best.
I do minimize the impact of many files on my Project by sizing to what I need. If I will not be doing any pans on zoomed-out images, I size to my Project. For pans on zoomed-out images, I calculate just what I will need for those pans, and might end up with several groups of sizes, to accommodate each. Still, the vast majority will be sized to exactly what I need for the Project - very few extra pixels.
In my case, and yours too, I have my RAW, my DNG, my working Layered PSD's, and then my sized output. I always keep all working PSD's, as I might change my mind, or my client might change theirs, and I do not want to have to go back and redo work, if I still have those working files. I also do as little destructive editing, as I can, using Dupe Layers, and Adjustment Layers, whenever possible. If I can, I never Flatten, or Merge Layers, so I can make any/all changes at any time, and only have to do the resizing via the same Actions. That is basically a "one-button" solution, once I have made the changes required.
Good luck,
Hunt

Still Images into video.

I want to turn images into a video. I have Adobe Premiere Elements 10 and Photoshop Elements 10, can I do it with them? Thank you.

Curt
Please re-read and consider the Time Lapse Basics blog post details in the context of you creating many many separate still images of your object moving say from left to right (A to B to C to D). Often "hundreds of pictures" are used depending on the scope of the project - your object moving in time.
Each of those still images (representing A, B, C, and D) gets taken (in the A, B, C, D sequence) into a Premiere Elements where you decrease the duration of each still image (from 5 seconds to say 1 second) to get the object's motion effect of moving from A to D.
What format is your comic strip in now? Drawings on a piece of paper? If these are drawings on paper, then you will should take pictures of each of the drawings A, B, C, and D. It is those pictures (jpg, still images) that get taken in sequence into the video editor like Premiere Elements where you decrease the duration of each to achieve the animated effect.
Photoshop Elements Editor, check out the FIle Menu/Save for Web feature where you can create an animated gif. But, here again, if what you have now are drawings, then you will need to find a way to make photographs of them.
There are numerous ways described online for making your comic strip drawings into and animation (video).
Please review them with a Google search to get an overview of what is out there.
After that, we can go over step by step what next based on your starting material and Premiere Elements.
Thanks.
ATR

Still images into a project

Hello.
I am working on an SD NTSC-Anamorphic project and want to bring some still images into the project. The images were shot with a Canon 350D (Rebel XT) in Raw format and currently are in TIFF format as converted by Aperture. When I import the images I am finding a noticable degredation in quality when comparing the images in "Preview" to the Viewer to the Canvas. Once the images are in the timeline and I look at them on the canvas they look alot fuzzier.
Should I be using a different file format? Is there a setting I've overlooked somewhere?
Thanks for any and all suggestions...

Hi,
I have read the comments above and all are valid but they do not look to me to answer your core question.
I had been asking the same question on forums for a long time and had similar responses and finally fixed the issue by purchasing a Photoshop book called WOW.
One of the earlier comments really hits the nail on the head but does not seem to offer the fix (I'm not trying to be critical here because all information does help).
First of all you need to reduce the size of the file for video - this is, in my experience best done in Photoshop not FCP (Photoshop WOW book comes with DVD and automatic actions to do this).
I call this the 'resize' step and put all my photos through this stage first (it does help to have an action for landscape and one for portrait to ensure that they are kept separate for the next step).
Then you need to 'rescale' the image to the size of your project in FCP (I assume that you are using widescreen as I do). To do this you need to create a blank document in widescreen format and then drop or drag your resized photo into the widescreen format and it will take on the same format as the blank widescreen document. Get rid of any layers and save the document in TIFF or JPEG it is up to you - you can keep the layers if you want to but you need to be aware of the issues of layers being imported into FCP.
I felt like I had found my fountain of youth when I sorted this out properly (the stress was definitely make me age).
Some comments suggest that the latest FCP does a better job of compressing the photos than the older versions but I wouldn't know as I use FCP 4.5HD and this may be so. However, it is commonly accepted, I believe, that formating the photo in photoshop is the better option.
It fixed all my headaches at least because I wanted the flexibility of FCP with photos just as you do.
Good luck and no intention to dislocate any noses out there, the willingness of people helping to provide assistance out there is fantastic.
Lee

How do I convert a WHOLE PDF file into jpeg on LION?

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Use this Automator Action:

How do you drop a still photo into a video?

how do you drop a still photo into a video -- while continuing the audio track unchanded?

by popular demand, Kelli Applies Lip Liner to Audrey's Lips has been completely re-mastered. (ok, it was just one person who asked, but she's a very intelligent and articulate observer of such matters. she noted that the clip suggests "interesting possibilities", but that men probably would be unaware of that. i explained that "men are pretty simple, so we don't see too many moves ahead." she laughed.)
i believe that in an earlier post i indicated that in the re-mastered version i would delete the in-camera audio and dub in the audio from the Zoom H4n audio recorder. this i did.
(syncing the video and audio continues to be a nightmare, though ).
besides signifcantly improving the sound quality, using a separately recorded audio source allowed me to drop (2) still photos into the video track, and still preserve the continuity of the recorded conversation.
dropping in the stills the correct way (unlike in the first re-mastered video) was easier than i thought it would be. it's just a matter of dragging the Premiere Elements 7's red vertical timeline-cursor to the point on the timeline where you want the insert to begin, and then dragging and dropping the still photo alongside the red cursor. the amount of time the still will appear can be shortened or lengthened by dragging with the mouse -- the same way any other file can be extended or contracted.
the video coming out from the still was now running behind the soundtrack. but, the timeline shows the exact duration of the still, so the video coming out was shortened with the mouse by that same duration, and then the audio and video were back in sync.
to add the "sound effect" of the camera's shutter clicking (actually its mirror slapping) before each still appears, i found a point on the audio recording that had the click of my camera actually taking a still, and that had only a little audio from the models underneath it. removing all the audio before and after the sound of the camera click was, again, just a matter of finding the start/stop points i wanted, moving the timeline's red cursor to those points, and using the mouse to drag the ends of the audio file alongside the cursor.
because i wanted the sound of the camera click to merge with the converation anyway, i just put the audio file of the click on its own audio track (which allowed me to separately control its volume).
however, when i tried to copy and paste the audio file of the camera click to the beginning of the second still photo, i was not able to copy and paste by the normal method of using the mouse to right-click-file/left-click-"copy"/left-click-"paste". eventually, i tried doing so by clicking on "edit" on the menu bar at the upper left and then clicking on "copy" and "paste", and there was no problem. (go figure.)
as with the other re-mastered video, i brightened, increased contrast, made the hue a bit warmer, and added a little sharpening. (this has to be done individually for each separate video file that makes up the whole piece -- at least that's what i did.)
interestingly, the audio level can be tweaked directly on the timeline by using the mouse to drag up or down a horizontal yellow line running the length of the audio file.
i again rendered in Adobe Flash Video (.flv). (annoyingly, in XP at least, there's a default download destination that has to be reset everytime you want to save in a different location). from a drop-down menu i selected "NTSC Flash Video 700k" (just in case) and left the file name as "Untitled" (since no matter what i change it to, it saves as "untitled.flv", so i have to rename it anyway once it's saved).
i went into "Advanced..." and, to preserve the dimensions and the HD, i unchecked "Resize Video", chose "Same as source" for the frame rate, and checked 2 "Encoding Passes" (just in case).
for some reason, everytime i click the "save" button, it asks what i want to call these settings. if i use the name i used for the same settings on the previous go-round, it says that that name is already used and (impliedly) can't be used again. so, i add the new date, and yet another name for the same settings gets added to the drop-down menu (odd).
once the compressed .flv file was saved, it was an easy upload to youtube.
btw, it seems that the Elements 7's Audio Mix defaults to 0 dB, OR whatever the setting was in the prior saved version, unless i use the mouse to continuously "ride the slider pot". that's ok for a 48-second video, but does anyone know of a way the dB can be set so that it just sits there, instead of moving back to where it previously was

How do I convert time lapse still images into a video in Premire Elements 13?

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