How to defragment on mac, safest way

What is the best way to defragment?
Its always dangerous to perform disk related stuff, sometimes some of the apps can lead to file corruption, I know lot cases where almost all the third party software has caused issues.
I have disk warrior, Techtool pro, drive genius, which one is safest? I know most of them require to boot of media to perform on boot drive.
Recently, i upgraded to 320gb 7200 rpm and since i had about 190gb of data, i thought disk utility will be faster, and it did copy in 1.5 hour but it didn't defragment my hard drive since it does block level copy. My computer is IN FACT RUNNING SLOWER.
Im thinking of carbon copy cloner to external hard drive, file level copy, and then boot of restore dvd 10.5 to perform restore function by disk utility which is lot faster since it does block level copy.

Single user mode is the safest way as nothing is running, nothing will change between starting and completing the copy process. Most importantly the netinfo DB is not being used. I use ditto and a clean destination disk.
CCC needs a GUI running and that means a live system, and with it a risk of files not being correctly copied.

Similar Messages

How to Defragment a FATx or NTFS (NON-MAC) partition/drive in Mac OSx

This is not another discussion about "How to defragment a native Mac partition/drive"
I've been roaming around lots of forums and everybody ask how to defragment a Mac Drive or Partition.. and the answers are always like "Why would you even want to defragment a your Mac.. OSx automatically does it for you.. Mac is so wonderful that ... bla bla bla..." ... I GOT IT, Ok..?
This time is different, I would like to know...
What tool should I use to defragment a NON-Mac Disk/Partition??
Say that you happend to have an external hard drive, which is in FATx or NTFS (Windows) format, then you attach it to your Mac and.. wel.. you want to defragment the disk from there because you just dont have windows Laptop/PC on hand.
Is this even possible from Mac, given that Mac OS is so wonderful that does not even need to defrag its file system?
I hope everybody understand my question before giving me the same answers once again.
Thank you very much!

mat060 wrote:
This is not another discussion about "How to defragment a native Mac partition/drive"
I've been roaming around lots of forums and everybody ask how to defragment a Mac Drive or Partition.. and the answers are always like "Why would you even want to defragment a your Mac.. OSx automatically does it for you.. Mac is so wonderful that ... bla bla bla..." ... I GOT IT, Ok..?
This time is different, I would like to know...
What tool should I use to defragment a NON-Mac Disk/Partition??
Say that you happend to have an external hard drive, which is in FATx or NTFS (Windows) format, then you attach it to your Mac and.. wel.. you want to defragment the disk from there because you just dont have windows Laptop/PC on hand.
Is this even possible from Mac, given that Mac OS is so wonderful that does not even need to defrag its file system?
I hope everybody understand my question before giving me the same answers once again.
Thank you very much!
Use DiskWarrior, respect your fellow users here, and perhaps stop with the multicolour, multi-font sized posts, which annoy the h#ll out of people that would normally help you.
DiskWarrior will do all you need to do, except perhaps for a Permissions repair once or twice a year if you believe it to be necessary.
Cheers
Pete

"How do I defrag my mac?" "You don't need to, it does it itself" Fragmented Free Space: 99%. READ THIS NOW

Just a heads up for my fellow Mac users.
"How do I defrag my mac?"
"You don't need to, ever. It does it automatically."
"But it's running really slowly..."
"Repair permissions or something. Defragging is not necessary on a mac."
Techtool pro is now defragmenting my mac. Looks like the job's going to take about 4 hours. I thought I'd give everyone the truth about this while waiting (on a different computer obviously)
The truth is, Apple's defragmenting system ***** BALLS. It has two massive, massive flaws which I feel people urgently need to be made aware of.
#1: It only defragments files up to 20mb. If you're a movie producer, a songwriter, a photographer, or anything which involves working with many massive files, the built in defragmenting program WILL NOT HELP YOU IN THE SLIGHTEST.
#2: It only defragments FILES. Free space is ignored, which eventually causes absolutely hrrendous problems.
Let me give you an analogy here. Imagine your mac's hard drive is a bookcase with lots of books on it.
File fragmentation is when it can't find a gap in the bookcase big enough for the entire book, so it breaks the book into pieces and srotes them in different gaps.
Space fragmentation is when there are gaps all over the bookcase, instead of all the books being pushed to one side so there's a long gap elsewhere.
Apple's built in defragmenting program will only fix the first problem - and even then, it will ignore any book bigger than 20 pages long, if you have bigger books which are broken up, you're screwed.
Why is space fragmentation a problem? It's a problem because it directly LEADS TO file fragmentation. If there is a large block of free space all in one part of the disk, then an entire file can be written to it. However, if there is no single free block big enough for the file, it HAS NO CHOICE but to fragment it.
So basically you might have 5 GB free and want to save a 2GB imovie project. That's cool. But what you may not realize is, the biggest single area of free space is only say 600MB. Others are around 300 and 400. Therefore the file MUST be fragmented into all these different areas, which wouldn't be necessary if all the free space was in one area of the disk.
But apple's built in tools don't do anything about this, at least not in Tiger. PErhaps this has been fixed in later installations but I'm almost certain the same issues exist in leopard.
Your only option is to buy a defragmenting program. I know this ***** but believe me, this IS something you NEED to do if your activity on your laptop involves disk space - intensive projects. I'm using TechTool Pro which has been recommended to me as hands down the best. It has a number of other functions as well, right now I'm only using the defragmenting tools but it has others for repairing damages disk sectors and other mantainence tools. There are other programs such as iDefrag out there as well.
Why am I telling you this? I'm telling you because I experienced mind numbing frustration trying to get answers from the Apple community. Google it or ask the question yourself and you will most likely be whacked in the face with the intro to my post here - "You don't need to, it's not necessary, macs do it themselves, blah blah blah"
Even worse, Apple's own webpage on the subject is nothing short of a disaster. It basically says "You PROBABLY don't need to defragment, unless you work with large files." That's it. You'd expect it to have an extra section saying "If you DO happen to work with large files, here's what you do" but no such section exists. It basically says "You don't need to defrag most of the time, and on the rare occasions when you do, well, too bad, you're screwed."
I urge everyone to heed this or they will be tearing their hair out at how slow their mac has become and the fact that no one will offer any meaningful advice other than the standard, generic, "Repair permissions" - the Mac equivelant of "have you tried turning it off and on again".
My disk is at 99% fragmented free space. NINTEY NINE PERCENT. In other words, although I have 25GB of free space, there was not a single contiguous block on the entire machine. I had almost 5,000 fragmented files as well, mostly imovies. Defragmenting got this down to about 300.
The defrag job is taking more than 4 hours and will probably go on to take a lot longer than that. This machine has been slowly grinding to a halt over the last 3 years and now I know why.
Please don't listen to anyone. Get yourself a defragmenting folder, and email Apple to tell them it's just not good enough to give their customers half assed answers and inadequate basic maintainence tools. Mac OS X must literally be the only operating system out there where something as basic as defragmenting is not only almost impossible to get answers on, but actually costs money to fix once you DO get answers.
As customers, we should not accept this any longer. I intend to spread the above message far and wide.
I LOVE Apple. I've always been "a mac" and I always will be. This in no way a mac bashing post or a windows endorsing one. I wouldn't switch back to windows if you gave me a million euro.
But sometimes even the best developers can royally f*ck up. This is one of them.
There is no readon people should be forced to put up with this crap. Absolutely no reason at all. I've had 3 months of crappy performance with no official explanation whatsoever.
Apple if you're reading this: I love your products. I'm a loyal customer. People are more forgiving than you think, speak up, admit you dropped the ball, and DO something about it in your next updates to Lion and whichever versions of Leopard you are still actively maintaining.
There's no shame in admitting when you're wrong. The shame is in hiding behind false promises and walls of silence.
--Loyal customer, but feeling rather betrayed by all this.

The old rule of thumb was to keep 10-12 GB free. Any lower than that and you will start to have trouble. I was very close to that for a long time and never had any complaints. Now, Lion "encourages" 20% free space (on my newer 250 GB drive) so I try to keep it with more than 50 GB free.
Do you still have the original memory in that machine too? The metal plate you have to remove in the battery compartment also provides access to the RAM. Your machine will take 2 GB of RAM, possibly 3. You definitely want to max that out too.
Regardless, you definitely need a new hard drive. When Apple switched to PC components, they had to take a quality hit. These 2.5" notebook hard drives are not very reliable. I'm surprised your hard drive hasn't died by now. I usually get a new hard drive with every major OS upgrade. A $ 50 investment every couple of years is no big deal.
Unfortunately, you (and I) suffer from being an early adopter in 2006. Those 32-bit machines only accept 2 GB RAM (maybe 3) and are only 32-bit so they can't be upgraded to Lion. Because of this limitation, you won't see as dramatic an improvement as you would with a 2007 machine. If you run more than a couple of applications, your hard drive is always going to have to be doing some VM work. My 2006 machine has even lost its bluetooth. I gave it to my brother. My very similar 2007 Macbook is still running great.
So, you must get a new hard drive because your old one is likely on death's door. If you don't have at least 2 GB - get it. If you can't afford a new machine, you might want to consider an SSD. That might help mitigate your RAM limitations. You can spend from $ 100 to $ 350 and get a dramatic speed improvement.

How do I unlock mac? Someone hacked my account and I wiped my device from iCloud, and now I ask for a four digit code ignition Mac. How do they proceed in that way to unlock my Mac?

How do I unlock mac? Someone hacked my account and I wiped my device from iCloud, and now I ask for a four digit code ignition Mac. How do they proceed in that way to unlock my Mac?

Settings>general>resets>erase all content and settings.
That will put it back to its out of the box state. Set it up with your own apple Id.

I have my mac pro with the keyboard in spanish and i didn't knew that it was going to be a big problem because i can't use the key pads the way they are printed, how can i use them the way they r printed?

i have my mac pro with the keyboard in spanish and i didn't knew that it was going to be a big problem because i can't use the key pads the way they are printed, how can i use them the way they are printed?

why can't you use the keyboard the way it is printed?

I just purchased a new MacPro to replace my existing 2006 MacPro which cannot be undated with the new operating system. My question is what is the safest way to transfer all my files. 1) simply install my existing 2TB HD into the new Mac Pro or 2)

I just purchased a new MacPro 3.2GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon processor to replace my existing 2006 MacPro 2 x 2.66 GHz Dual-Core Intel Xeon because it cannot be undated with the new Lion operating system.
My question is what is the safest way to transfer all my files to the new computer. 1) simply install my existing 2TB HD into the new Mac Pro, set it as the startup drive, and update its10.7 operating system or 2) or use the migration program.
I'm concerned that simply installing the existing 2TB HD, I may have issues with it not recognising some infromation written for the old 2 x 2.66 GHz Dual-Core Intel Xeon.

your new system runs 10.6.8 just fine as has been said and stated many times.
I would clone it first.
I would even clone the original system it has.
And if you have or want to use Lion and then Mountain Lion, fine - I would still keep backups of every OS.
I am not a fan of putting the OS and Apps plus all the data all on one drive. I like to keep them separate.
Whatever OS, rerun the last combo update is all and any other updates.
And by "new Lion" I assume you don't mean 10.7 but "Moutain" 10.8. Part of me says keep Lion and SL around, and test and try out ML with your apps and other hardware you may have. After too many years, waiting for 10.8.1 - and give everyone time to update their apps and retest.

What is the safest way to perform a clean install of OS 10.6 over 10.5?

Model Identifier:
MacPro3,1
Processor Name:
Quad-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed:
2.8 GHz
Number Of Processors:
2
Total Number Of Cores:
8
L2 Cache (per processor):
12 MB
Memory:
2 GB
Bus Speed:
1.6 GHz
I installed the upgrade to OS 10.6 some months ago and have had problems ever since with slow speed on a lot of software, Adobe InDesign CS4 in particular. I would like to reinstall the OS clean and start over. What is the safest way to do this? Or does this not sound like it would be the culprit?

Use Carbon Copy Cloner AND Time Machine.
Using Cloning as a Backup Strategy
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/7032/carbon-copy-cloner
http://www.bombich.com/software/updates/ccc-3.5.html
Create an OS X Lion Install disc
OS X Lion Install to Different Drive
How to create an OS X Lion installation disc MacFixIt
Migration Assistant Update for Mac OS X Snow Leopard
http://www.apple.com/support/lion/installrecovery/
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20080989-263/how-to-create-an-os-x-lion-ins tallation-disc
http://www.coolestguyplanettech.com/how-to-make-a-bootable-osx-10-8-mountain-lio n-disc-or-drive-from-the-downloaded-mountain-lion-app/
How to clone your system:
http://macperformanceguide.com/Mac-HowToClone-backup.html
http://macperformanceguide.com/Mac-HowToClone.html
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/7032/carbon-copy-cloner
http://www.macperformanceguide.com/blog/2012/20120711_2-MacPro-internal-clone-ba ckup.html

How to maintain my Mac

I'm trying to learn what kind of maintenance do I need to do on my iMac to keep it running good

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” “extenders,” “cleaners,” "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless.
The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
The free anti-malware application ClamXav is not crap, and although it’s not routinely needed, it may be useful in some environments, such as a mixed Mac-Windows enterprise network.
4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most users don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

How to clear my MAC cache

Do MACs get bogged down like PCs and need to have a cache or anything cleared? Any help you could give me would be appreciated.

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless.
The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
The free anti-malware application ClamXav is not crap, and although it’s not routinely needed, it may be useful in some environments, such as a mixed Mac-Windows enterprise network.
4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

How to connect my Mac to the tv screen

Can someone explain to me how I can watch on the (big) tv screen the downloaded content from my laptop?

How to Connect a Mac Computer to a TV: 11 Steps - wikiHow
How to connect Macbook to TV (the simple way) - YouTube
How to Connect a Mac to a TV with HDMI for Full Audio ...
how can i hook up my mac book pro to my tv - Apple Store ...
Connect Your Mac to Your HDTV - About.com
Tutorial: How to Connect MacBook Pro to High Definition TV (HDTV ...

How to update my mac book pro??

how to update my mac ???

Software Update under the Apple menu (upper left corner).
If you are at 10.6.8 then the only way to update would be purchasing Mountain Lion via the App Store application.

How can I use Mac Mail to send a delayed mail?

I am trying to send a delayed email, meaning the email is not sent immediately
when the send button is pressed but at a pre-determined time.
I have looked through Google, tried different third party scripts available, including
Mail Scripts 2.10.3 by Andreas Amann, but none is supported under Mac OS X Lion.
I believe Mac Mail itself does not support this feature (to my disappointment),
but I read about using iCal and Automator to do my intended purpose.
However, I am not familiar with script-writing. If someone can provide me a
step-by-step procedure OR give me another way to do my intended purpose,
it will be highly appreciated.

I opened Airport Utility today and it appears to have been simplified to the point where you can't do much with it these days.
Yes, welcome to the Fisher Price toy box utility.. where nothing in the way of advanced usage is offered.
Is there a way to accomplish what I want to do that is reasonably simple?
You can put time controls onto the offending addresses.
But if the hackers know anything at all they know how to access the MAC address of the computer and change it.. so the effectiveness of this is limited.
Change the current setup and password.. You must use WPA2 Personal and I recommend you use a pure alphanumeric password, mix case and numbers of 20 characters or more for your situation.. do not give that password to anyone.. protect the admin password of the TC itself equally well but with a different password. And protect the physical access to the TC from anyone in your home.. because the fact is all security on the TC is an illusion if the TC has open access.
See how to find passwords here.
i forgot my password for my router, how can I change them.
So anyone can discover your passwords without your knowledge and leave no trace on your system.
If you make no progress.. I suggest replacement of the TC as the main router of your network.. you need something with controls.. and even better controls that allow you to block people.
The favourite one now is older Netgear WNDR3800 . .you might need to buy from ebay although a few new ones are still around.. alternatively the WNDRMACv2 is simply the same hardware in a white box.. instead of black.
Load gargoyle firmware onto it.. sorry if I even point to where you can find this info my post will be deleted.. I can say it.. just cannot help further.. so use google.. there are lots of posts and let me assure you this get combo.
You can continue to use TC at what it does best.. a dumb wireless AP and location for TM backups.

How to scan on Mac OS10.10.2 by HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M177fw?

hello,
i try few different way but still don't know how to scan things.
anyone know how to scan on Mac OS10.10.2 by HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M177fw?
it have no problem on printing by wifi.
thanks,
Les

Hi Les,
Follow these steps to scan with the HP Scan software:
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-Pro-M170-Multifunction-Printer-series/5303438/...
If you do not have the HP Scan Software located as the socument states, download and install the following software.
Be sure to seect HP Scan while installing the software:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?softwareitem=kj-124923-3&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en...
Additionally you may scan with Apple's software by following these steps instead:
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-Pro-M170-Multifunction-Printer-series/5303438/...
Shlomi
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos thumb up in the post.
If my post resolve your problem please mark it as an Accepted Solution

Safest way to transition between iPhones

Hi,
I have an iPhone 4 and will soon be upgrading to a 5s.
My question here pertains to the fact that I want to wipe the old phone clean, i.e., get all my info off it (purchased apps, data, etc) unlock it (I am out of contract and now changing carriers). then offer it for sale (since it is in in pristine condition and will help me pay for new one).
I wonder how to do best wipe the phone clean to prepare it to sell without risking losing any data too soon that is needed for my new phone.
I also wonder about best, safest way to get data (including important data in certain apps) onto my new phone?
A few related questions:
Can iTunes distinguish between two iPhones?
If I plug in iPhone 4 and hit restore, what happens?
After I have figured out (with help of this forum) how to get my info off my present phone, can I—and is it a good idea—to install IOS7 (might that make phone more appealing?)
THANKS!
A.
PS. I was not going to raise question of unlocking on this forum but if anyone wants to offer advise or guidance about that, it's most welcome!

Thank you, Petvas.
I am attempting the update to ISO 7 (0.3) as I type. previously, I got a message that there was not enough room. (one reason for my other question on the forum about how to delete voice memos).
You wrote:
As soon as you get your new iPhone, you can reset the previous one. This can be done in the settings of your iPhone.
Now, put the SIM card in the new phone, connect it per USB with iTunes and when asked if you want to set up your phone as new, or restore from backup, select to restore from backup. iTunes will prompt you to select from a list of backups. Select the latest and click on next.
I will be getting a phone sent from APPLE set up to work with Verizon (no sim card for me to install, far as I know)? I imagine that I will just connect new phone to iTunes and restore from backup?
My other question is: after I have done the above and set-up new phone from backup, how do I remove all my data from the iPhone4 so that all that is left is latest OS and native apps and nothing more?
Also, I am still curious about the difference between a computer back up and an icloud backup?
Thanks!

Home network 101: How to get 3 Macs to feed photos off the same external HD

This has to be a super simple setup but the search I did reveals a lot pf pieces to the puzzle but not the basic idea.
I currently have three Macs running 10.4.10: an old iMac G3 500Mhz, an iMac G4 1Ghz and an iBook 1.4Ghz. They are all connected via generic ethernet cables (RJ45) I installed throughout the house to a Lynksis BEFSR41 EtherFast Cable router in the garage. That one is then connected to a Motorola SB5101 cable modem for our internet connection. Each computer lives happily by itself at the moment and when I need to transfer something from one to the other I temporarily turn Personal Sharing On, do the transfer and then turn it off again. So Sharing is Off 99% of the time because I read that even though they all have passwords, this is the safest way to keep them.
One problem that we are facing more and more is that four people in the family use these computers and we each have downloaded pictures in iPhoto on all computers. This creates a bit of a mess so I would like to have a central 500GB hard drive next to the router in the garage that would host all the iPhoto files and be permanently visible by each computer.
I read that the new Airport would offer this possibility. However, I am not interested in wireless because I have already run ethernet cable throughout the house. So my questions are these:
- What is the best way to accomplish this scenario in terms of safety, speed and cost?
- Ethernet cable is still safer and faster then wireless, correct?
- I will be replacing the old iMac G3 with a new 24inch intel one as soon as they are introduced, hopefully this week. Would this old G3 one be useful as a server that the 500GB drive would be attached to? Or would its bus speed be so slow it would bring iPhoto on each machine down to a crawl? It wouldn't really be doing any work, just sit there with the 500 attached to its Firewire port so I can add it to the Lynksis chain.
Is the Lynksis now too old and slow to allow 3 computer to access that HD at firewire speed? If so, what would be a better choice?
Again, the three key factors and speed, safety nd cost. (But then again that's always the case, isn't it???) I really appreciate any help or redirection to existing threads or articles that I might have missed.
Thank you very much.
Bo

Not likely...
They'd need your Passwords & Usernames, then your Router would have to Forward Port 548 to a particular machine, then the icing on the cake is that almost all of this is being done by Bots looking for Internet Explorer running from Drive C:\ and an OS that can execute .exe, .pif, .com, .bat, .etc. files!
So, if your Macs & Router aren't set up to allow you access from the outside world, nobody else can either... if they are then it's still very unlikely someone else could, but if you want to be as anally paranoid as me, then...
ClamXAV, free Virus scanner...
http://www.clamxav.com/
Little Snitch, stops/alerts outgoing stuff...
http://www.obdev.at/products/littlesnitch/index.html
HenWen/Snort combo, that is a free MAJOR Firewall...
http://seiryu.home.comcast.net/henwen.html
Then the venerable old Brickhoues/Flying Buttress Firewall...
http://personalpages.tds.net/~brian_hill/downloads.html
WaterRoof is a firewall management frontend with bandwidth tuning, NAT setup, port redirection, dynamic rules tracking, predefined rule sets, wizard, logs, statistics and other features.
http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/23317
But really... no need to worry yourself YET with a Mac... I once challenged a group of people that poo-pooed Mac Security, by running a Machine as Root, gave them the IP, and a few more hints, and nobody got in at all. (There weren't many attempts though).

How to defragment on mac, safest way

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