HT3964 My intel based IMac wakes itself immediately when put to sleep and the

I have an intel based i-mac which is about 4 years old. Recently when I have pressed the sleep button it has gone to sleep then immediately turned back on. The volume control also turns itself down to 0 at random times. Some months ago I had a drive appear in finder labeled as 0 and all my applications are on this drive.Anybody have any idea what might be going on?Any help would be greatly appreciated.I was running Snow Leopard when this first happened but upgraded to latest Lion operating system yesterday but problem is still exactly the same.

Similar Messages

I have an Intel based iMac that has just developed two small spots on the screen. One 1/8" circle at bottom and a tiny circle at top. The fading on and off light isn't working anymore either. Does anyone know anything about this?

I have an Intel based iMac that has just developed two small spots on the screen - they look light brighter spots on the screen. One 1/8" circle at bottom right and a tiny circle at top right. The fading on and off light on area surrounding the screen isn't working anymore either. Has anyone else had similar problems? Any solutions? Thanks!

One way to test is to Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, Test for problem in Safe Mode...
PS. Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive
Reboot, test again.
If it only does it in Regular Boot, then it could be some hardware problem like Video card, (Quartz is turned off in Safe Mode), or Airport, or some USB or Firewire device, or 3rd party add-on, Check System Preferences>Accounts>Login Items window to see if it or something relevant is listed.
Check the System Preferences>Other Row, for 3rd party Pref Panes.
Also look in these if they exist, some are invisible...
/private/var/run/StartupItems
/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/LaunchDaemons
/Library/LaunchDaemons

IMac wakes itself up, then puts itself back to sleep

My iMac constantly wakes itself from sleep. The problem seems to have started around the time that I upgraded to Yosemite. If I leave the computer in sleep mode overnight, it will happen dozens of times throughout the night. The computer wakes up, but the monitor never comes on. I hear the hard drive spin up, I see my mouse’s LED turn on, then after a few seconds it goes back to sleep.
I have tried everything in this KB article (https://support.apple.com/en-gb/TS5357) with no luck. I have done SMC and PRAM resets with no luck. I’ve tried unplugging all USB devices prior to sleep in case one of them was waking the machine, with no luck. I have no Bluetooth devices, and Bluetooth is turned off. “Wake for network access” is turned off. I have no scheduled power or wake/sleep events. I have no file or device sharing enabled.
If I do a “wake reason” terminal command, I have page after page of the following message with varying timestamps: “Mar 28 11:45:20 iMac kernel[0] <Notice>: Wake reason: RTC (Alarm)” The info I’ve found about this says, “Real Time Clock Alarm, is generally from wake-on-demand services like when you schedule sleep and wake on a Mac via the Energy Saver control panel. It can also be from launchd setting, user applications, backups, and other scheduled events.” Again, I have no scheduled wake settings, “wake for network access” it off, and I have no applications that should be waking the computer.
I’m at my wits’ end with this problem. At this point, the only thing I can think to do is a full reinstallation of OS X, but I’d really rather not have to go that far. Any suggestions?
Specs:
iMac (20-inch, Mid 2007)
OS X 10.10.2
Processor: 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 4 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
Graphics: ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro 256 MB

Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a diagnostic test. It’s unlikely to solve your problem. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
The purpose of the test is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party software that loads automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually login automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of the test.

MBP Shuts down immediately when put to sleep

Hi all,
When I either close the lid on my MacBook Pro or put it into sleep mode, or let it go into sleep mode on its own [overnight], it will shut down immediately with no warning. I've searched high and low to solutions to this problem. I've reset the SMC, no luck.
Help?
Matt

Hi Matt
Does it shut down so you have to boot from nothing, or does it show the last screen from before sleeping, in a greyed-out fashion? Your machine might be going into deep sleep and not just a nap.
-h.

HT3964 My intel-based IMAC will power on and then I just get a circle that shows it is trying to load and it never stops

After turning on my computer all I get is the white startup screen and the circle that goes around continuously trying to load. What should I do? I have done all the obvious things such as as the power source, unplugged speakers, etc.

Assuming you are running 10.4.11 as indicated in your profile information:
How to Perform an Archive and Install
An Archive and Install will NOT erase your hard drive, but you must have sufficient free space for a second OS X installation which could be from 3-9 GBs depending upon the version of OS X and selected installation options. The free space requirement is over and above normal free space requirements which should be at least 6-10 GBs. Read all the linked references carefully before proceeding.
1. Be sure to use Disk Utility first to repair the disk before performing the Archive and Install.
Repairing the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger, Leopard or Snow Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer. Now restart normally.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Do not proceed with an Archive and Install if DU reports errors it cannot fix. In that case use Disk Warrior and/or TechTool Pro to repair the hard drive. If neither can repair the drive, then you will have to erase the drive and reinstall from scratch.
3. Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When you reach the screen to select a destination drive click once on the destination drive then click on the Option button. Select the Archive and Install option. You have an option to preserve users and network preferences. Only select this option if you are sure you have no corrupted files in your user accounts. Otherwise leave this option unchecked. Click on the OK button and continue with the OS X Installation.
4. Upon completion of the Archive and Install you will have a Previous System Folder in the root directory. You should retain the PSF until you are sure you do not need to manually transfer any items from the PSF to your newly installed system.
5. After moving any items you want to keep from the PSF you should delete it. You can back it up if you prefer, but you must delete it from the hard drive.
6. You can now download a Combo Updater directly from Apple's download site to update your new system to the desired version as well as install any security or other updates. You can also do this using Software Update.

Older printer set ups on Intel-based iMac

I just bought a new iMac with Intel inside running OS 10.4.4 and I bought a new AsanteTalk adapter. I have tried to hook up an Apple Laserwriter 12/640 PS as well as an Epson Stylus Color 800. The drivers are in the iMac, but I can't get the machine to see either printer using AppleTalk through a direct Ethernet connection or through an Ethernet hub. Is this a new problem because of the Intel-based iMac? Has anyone tried using older printers with the new Intel-based iMac?

.

Intel based iMac Seems to Be Getting Slower

I have one of the recent Intel based iMac's. Everything seems to run fine but the system is starting to slow down. I doubt it's mechanical, I do IT work for a living so I'm probably much more sensitive to it then most people are. I'm just wondering what might be causing it? For example system startup seems to have gotten noticeably slower since I purchased back in may of this year. Normal application use seems the same, but if I run a old powerpc based game, I need to restart the machine after I close it, otherwise the machine crawls.
The system has the latest OS updates, 4GB Ram, 2.8GHZ processor, Geforce 8800GS 512MB. I'm using a wired Apple Pro Keyboard (white keys, right before the aluminum release), Logitech MX518 Wired Mouse. The 4GB of ram is not standard, but a matched pair of 2GB chips from Other World Computing.
I use a program called Xslimmer to weed out files I don't need to save space. I don't have any really large files on the system, just thousands of smaller photos & documents. Free space on the hard disk is 318.79GB. I have 3 login items: CoverSutra, iTunes Helper, and EyeTV Helper that run automatically on startup.
Any suggestions? Should I consider an application like Drive Genius, Spring Cleaning, etc? I did install the Logitech Control Center (don't know how to remove it) but I don't use it, it's not in my startup items, and doesn't see the mouse anyway.
Thanks!

Try starting without the eyeTV stuff. (I've noticed my Macbook which used to shut down in exactly 3 seconds now takes 8 seconds, and this began the day I installed eyeTV).
I would then try starting without CoverSutra. You need to eliminate things one by one.

Mid 2006 intel iMac wakes itself up

I have a 17" 1.83 Ghz dual core intel based imac. very recently, after upgrading to version 10.5.5, when I put my computer to sleep it immediately wakes itself up, and it will not go to sleep by itself. the screen will dim like it usually does before sleeping, but full sleep will never occur.
I have tried rebooting, as well as resetting the SMC. I have tried sleeping with no running applications. I have set a hot corner to sleep the display, and that works, but I cannot get thee computer to sleep. its pretty frustrating. any ideas?

whoops found the problem. My wireless USB mouse was waking it up for some reason. I guess Ill just unplug it when I put my comp to sleep from now on.

HT3964 Intel-based iMAC. Power, but no video. Tried to reset the SMC, but no luck.

Intel-based iMAC. Power, but no video. Tried to reset the SMC, but no luck.

If you have AppleCare on it give them a call. If you have not bought AppleCare yet then I'd strongly suggest it to protect your investment. This will extend the warranty to 3 years and also provide 3 years of telephone support. You can buy it from any Apple reseller or Apple for $169 or you can find it discounted at places like Amazon.

IMac wakes itself up, WHY!?

I have an intel-based iMac and have noticed that it has a problem with waking itself up everytime it automatically goes to sleep. I have checked everything I can think of. The energy saver is set right with no weird schedule, I have unchecked any box I can find that says something about waking up the computer when an action happens. The only things that are plugged in are my printer, keyboard, and wireless mouse receiver. I have no idea why it is doing this.
Exactly what happens is after it has gone to sleep, I hear some small motor movement (must be the HD, or CD drive checking availability or something), and the fan runs for about a second. The screen does not come on, only all the noises present when a computer wakes up for real are heard. This is very weird I know, but I wonder if anyone else has this problem.

This might sound weird, but on both an iBook G4 and an Intel iMac I have experienced a wake from sleep when I turned on my desk lamp (fluorescent bulb) that was connected to the same power strip as the machines. I assume electrical line noise could trigger the computer to wake in some situations, or possibly frequency noise from the bulb? I never really tested other power strips or bulbs and just made sure to turn the light off for the night before I put the machines to sleep. FWIW.

Intel-based iMac stuck in grey screen with spinning wheel. SMC::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMBadArgumentError(0x89)

Hi guys,
since yesterday my Intel-Based iMac doesn't boot normally, its stuck in grey screen with a spinning wheel.
Its an Intel-based iMac 21.5'' purchased in 2011, and i recently (2 months ago) upgraded it to Mavericks.
-2 weeks ago, i installed smcFanControl app
-Tried start up in Safe Mode by holding Shift but its not working. i think i hear fans are working more than they were before the problem occurs.
-entered Single User Mode and i get an error
SMC ::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMCBadArgumentError(0x89) fKeyHashTable=0x0xffffff8029fa1000
-followed some instructions found online, but can execute the correct commands in SingleUserMode
tried to remove FanControl as explained here: http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/110667/errorr-kernel-smcsmcreadkeyactio n-in-console
any ideas what may caused this and how can i fix this?
Thanks in advance

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, boot from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

What can happen to an intel-based iMac when a power outage occurs while it is on and I unplug it to avoid a surge when power comes back?

The power went out today, while I was using my intel-based iMac (2008) and I rushed to unplug the power from the wall, before the poser could surge back on. Did I do damage?
I have a surge protector that it was plugged into, but I thought just to be safe I should unplug!
Thanks, Group!
artdough

Good point!
Art a surge protector (a good one) is designed to provide contant power to the devices that are plugged into it. This is good in the event of a surge of power up or down however in the event of a complete power outage they're of no value.
A UPS (Uninteruptable Power Supply) is just that, it has surge protection like a surge suppresor however it also has a battery integrated into it. The battery is designed to provide enough power for a user to do an orderly shutdown. In addition most UPS's can also plug into your iMac via a USB cable. Then you can set energy saver preferences that you cannot see now. For example you can set how long the computer should run in the event of power going off. You can also set if you want the computer to reboot or not when the power comes back on etc. For about $100 you can get a fine UPS that will add an additional layer of protection for your computer and give you extra peace of mind.

User Contributed Tips in Intel-based iMac Your Intel-based iMac Display

*The following User Contributed Tips are located in the Intel-based iMac > Your Intel-based iMac Display forum:*
a brody - Using a second Mac as a display for a first
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1587927
Publish date: July 7, 2008
*The following related tips are located in other areas of Apple Discussions:*
See also User Tips Library

My 20" 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo had become almost useless due to freezes and crashes- with NO crash reports in the logs.
They were often preceeded by video glitches, so I assumed it was a bad video card- unfortunately soldered to mother board.
Apparently, from forum postings, this is not an uncommon problem. The computer would run longer if the day was cooler, but rarely more than 10 minutes, so I suspected it was aggravated by heat.
Then I found this post from Bodomann on an Apple Support forum:
"Following up on my previous posting regarding my son's late model 2006 iMac that required a $900 logic board replacement:
Turns out the problem is apparently related to a bad CPU temp sensor. I installed 'iMac Fan Control' (Google it) which reported the CPU temp always at 32 degrees Fahrenheit (obviously incorrect). The same software allowed me to adjust the CPU fan manually. After multiple trials I set the CPU speed to 2800RPM after which the system would run forever - never freezing with the dreaded grey box 'reboot me' screen. I tried several times reverting the software to default speeds and the system would always crash within 10 minutes. "
I downloaded free Fan Control 1.2 for Imac from Derman Enterprises (they have an Intel iMac and a Mac Book/Pro version). It installs as a system preferences control panel. I cranked up all three fan speeds. The fans sped up noticeably. Horizontal lines have gone from screen (so far), no color artifacts and no crashes yet. I may have a real computer back! Hope Apple checks this out-
The control panel also gives the temps sensors are reporting at the CPU, hard drive and DVD drive. The CPU sensor reports the CPU temp as 32 degrees F- which is clearly wrong, unless Apple has been installing little refrigerators inside.
So thanks to Bodomann for posting- Hats off and three cheers to Derman and Cristoph for source code.
http://www.derman.com/iMac-Fan-Control
http://www.lobotomo.com/products/FanControl/index.html

My old Intel-Based iMac is no longer recognizing USB wired input devices; it only recognizes Bluetooth. What happened?

My friend's old Intel-Based iMac is no longer recognizing USB-wired input devices (Kensington TrackBall, Logitech Mouse) plugged into any USB slot at the back of the computer.
They were working before and for many years.
All of a sudden, A pop up window came up. IT said no Bluetooth mice could be found. We don't know what set off that window to pop up and look for a WL mouse. It never has before in the 5 or more years my friend has been using this computer.
I supplied a wireless Apple mouse and his is back running again.
But want to know why his USB-input devices (Except his keyboard) are not being recognized. He would prefer to use his Trackpad (Wired), but can't find anything in SYstem PReferences to allow that. The computer only seems to want a Bluetooth input device.
Anyone have an idea what happened and if this can be reversed?
I think he is still running Mac OS X 10.5.8.

Hi Carol, lets try this...
reset FW bus, same goes for USB reset...
Reset the Firewire bus
If your Firewire or USB isn't recognizing any device. A solution which has worked for some whose hard drive became invisible in 10.4 was simply to follow these four steps to reset the Firewire/USB bus:
1. Shut the machine down.
2. UNPLUG the power lead to the computer and any firewire/USB drive/devices.
3. leave it for 10 minutes.
4. Connect back up and reboot.
http://www.macmaps.com/firewirebug2.html

HT1338 Left hand side of monitor dims on 2011/intel based iMac-any suggestions?

Left hand side of monitor dims on 2011 /intel based iMac-any suggestions? Called apple support. Restarted-didn't help. Unplugged my second monitor from the thunderbolt port-didn't help. Unplugged center cord in the middle on the back of the monitor-waited 15 seconds, restarted, held down option-command-p-r and this didn't help. Apple support thought that it was most likely a video card/hardware issue, but would like to hear of any other trouble shooting suggestions.

Not a hardware issue, since it shows up in a screenshot. Please boot in safe mode, launch Safari, and test. Same problem?
Some things won't work in safe mode, possibly including wireless networking.
After testing, reboot as usual (not in safe mode.)
Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode

HT3964 My intel based IMac wakes itself immediately when put to sleep and the

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for