I'm shopping for a new ideacentre - please advise
I'm a little confused and a little concerned about what to buy. Maybe someone can help advise me. On the lenovo site, the have a model 53132CU which looks like a top rate machine for 800USD. The only comparable model I can find at other webtailers is model # 57076244 for $750. Wondering why it is not a 5313xxx? The only difference seems to be 1 GB of RAM. What else is different?? The numbering scheme seems to be designed to keep me from comparing anything to the lenovo direct site. Shady?
I'm also interested why the PDF data sheet shows the top of the line model to be the 53132FU available in October. But even the lenovo site dos not have them. When will it be available and where?
I also would like to add a second HDD setup as a raid 1. Will the controller & Vista allow this? And reading the forum, it looks like an update will remove the C & D partition in December. Should I hold out for this update? I figure that buying from a reseller, they may not have the update for months.
Thanks for and good advice from you folks!
You can buy the 8GB configuration and add more ram if there are additional sockets on the mother board.
I bought a refurbished Dell workstation from Dell because it was a refurbished machine I had not choice is the amount of Ram it would come with.
My machine came with 8GB of ECC RAM speed rating 1600. The machine had 4 empty RAM I wanted more RAM for more RAM helps when you work on documents with lots of layers. You can buy RAM from Dell as well as from third party sellers. Dell prices are somewhat higher the third party sellers and if you buy a large quantity of ram modules you can get even better prices. I added 32GB of of 1600 ECC RAM for about $300 Dell price was some what higher nearer $400. If a bought more then 10 RAM modules instead of the four I purchased the per unit price I could would have been lower.
SSD is also very desirable for Photoshop scratch space.
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What ssd should i get for my lenovo t61 please advise
what ssd should i get for my lenovo t61 please advise i like the samsungs , will sata II work on it ?
Skip the Samsung!
The SSD Anthology: Understanding SSDs and New Drives from OCZ
http://www.anandtech.com/storage/showdoc.aspx?i=3531
The SSD Update: Vertex Gets Faster, New Indilinx Drives and Intel/MacBook Problems Resolved
http://www.anandtech.com/storage/showdoc.aspx?i=3535
I would go with Intel X25-M 80GB SATA MLC SSD $393.00
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167005
Drives like the Samsung don't make a good main drive replacment yuo will see noticable pauses in applicatipon web browsing is one place where the pause is very noticable but people blame internet transfer instead of their hdd pausing while doing a file update. -
Hello
Subject: Create itunes account without credit card for iPhone 3G
The option to enter 'None' for credit card does not seem to appear on the iphone 3G that I got for my mother. Please advise how I may create an itunes account, thank youCreating iTunes Store, App Store, iBookstore, Mac App Store account w/o a credit card
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My Time Machine backup keeps failing. I get a message the "Volume has the wrong case sensitivity for a backup". Please advise.
Thanks, HowardYou can change the case sensitivity of the sparsebundle.. but I really doubt the error is real.
See A8 here.
http://pondini.org/TM/Troubleshooting.html
The sparsebundle should have case sensitivity turned on.
I cannot even fathom how it could have changed.
Let me recommend before you start fooling around with the sparsebundle.
Do a full network start.
Power everything off.. start up modem.. wait 2min.. power up the TC.. wait 2min.. power up any other network gear like switches.. wait..
Now power up the computer and try it.
If the error is the same.. I would do a factory reset of the TC.. give it all short names, no spaces and pure alphanumeric. Then reset TM .. see A4 in the same reference as above.. and do a verify of the backups.. A5 above and try the backup again..
No luck..
Then erase the TC and start over.. it is sometimes necessary as TM does get itself in a knot. -
Whats your favorite and why?
ThanksShort of spending inordinate amounts of money, I'd go as far as to say most >mice/meeses/mouses are relatively the same. As long as they're not cheap >and break right away.
kind of, but also not really. I just did a whole lot of looking into mice myself, after finally figuring out that they're absolutely not all equal. especially when you are talking bluetooth mice, in my experience you really can make some bad choices.
what i learned from my looking around: laser tracking and optical tracking are not the same thing. you definitely want to go for laser tracking, makes quite a difference. this means that if you're looking at the mighty mouse, it's only the wireless one that has this type of tracking, so take a look at that one.
I think logitech also have a few decent laser tracking bluetooth mice on the market.
if you are going for bluetooth, get something recent to market. bluetooth drivers used to be horrible things for some brands like kensington, they would randomly cut out and need to be reset, or the mouse pointer would just jump all over the screen whenever it felt like it.
under no circumstances should you get a kensington pilot mini optical bluetooth mouse. I just trashed mine, worst mouse I've ever had. it was so bad it turned me off even considering any kensington mice at all when looking for a new one.
so I ended up going with the wireless mighty mouse after testing it out with logic for an hour or so at a local dealer. compared it with a logitech that they had, unfortunately they had no logitechs with laser tracking in stock or it might have been better competition. but I've no regrets at all with the apple one, it's actually quite amazing, never thought I'd like it this much. even the weird scrollball thing is pretty cool, you get quite used to being able to x/y scroll in logic quite quickly.
anyway happy shopping. don't buy kensington! -
Another New User, Please Advise, Can I Permanently Use Zen Stone From Power Adap
Can I permanently run my new Zen Stone directly from the Zen USB Power Adapter. Like I have my Zen Stone connected to small speakers and would like it to run off the Zen Power Adapter (wall charger) not the battery, permanently. In other words I would like to keep it plugged into the Power Adapter all the time and run it that way so I don't have to run it off the battery and keep charging it. Is this OK to do Please advise this senior citizen trying to keep up with all this great stuff.
Cookies are stored in a cookie jar and thus are shared among all open tabs and windows.
Only all Private Browsing mode tabs/windows use a separate cookie jar that is used for all PB mode tabs.
Note that session restore stores cookies of open tabs in the sessionstore.js file as part of stored session data.
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/browser.sessionstore.privacy_level -
When I try to backup to the PC or Icloud my IPAD2 the following message appears that "Itunes could not back upthe ipad because the backup could not be saved on the computer" and the nthe process stops. However this message does not appear when I update for the new software my IPAD 4. Please note that my itunes is up to date. I cannot log in as an Administrator to my PC. I think the problem is somwthing else as before I was able to update the software on my IPAD 2.
Hi, lorlla123.
The steps in the article below will help you troubleshoot the backup issue with your iPad 2.
iOS: Troubleshooting backup issues in iTunes
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2529
Regards,
Jason H. -
Hello, I was in the middle of upgrading to Mountain Lion when I was called away from computer. Three one hours phone calleover cyber monday went unanswerd. Have License and ID. Please advise how to finish transaction.
gMac App Store: How to resume interrupted downloads
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Looking for a new laptop, please help
I am looking into purchasing a new laptop in the next couple weeks in the $700 price range and am wondering what the best options are. I have basically narrowed it down to the Toshiba P745-S4217 and Asus U46E-BAL5. But I also like the sony VPCEG16FM/W and Toshiba R835-P70. Which one is the best bange for the buck? I want something that is fast and not to loud or overheat. I like having good speakers and something that is fast. I know the Toshiba R835-P70 is only 4GB RAM but is it that much slower then the ASUS U46E-BAL5 8GB? I dont do any gaming so that doesnt matter, will just use for school and surfing the web so want something that is fast and built to last a few years. If they are all pretty similar I am thinking the Toshiba P745-S4217 is probably best option due to speakers and blu ray. Finally, besides what is already listed on your site, are there any major differences or things I should know about the four computers I have listed. Thank you for your time and help. Feel free to offer any other suggestions for laptops as well.
No one can answer this for you. You will get lots of opinions, but you have to decide which of those laptops is right for you. You'll have to compare keyboards, screens, what software is loaded on it, etc.
Now, for my opinion (remember, you'll get lots of those): Stay as far away as you can from Sony computers. They are overpriced, and they have terrible build wuality. Toshiba has been going downhill the last two or three years, but not as badly as Sony. Asus products are pretty good, I would not hesitate to recommend them. THey have been making motherboards for a long time.
Any computer in your price range will easily handle the tasks you stated. "Fast" is a relative term, and when comparing, the figures are pretty much meaningless . Another reason to do a hands on comparison in the store.
If a single model in your price range has a lot fo features that the others do not have, then be very wary...that usually means sub-par components used just to get better specs.
If you find my post useful or informative, please click the icon below with the plus sign and star to give kudos. Thank you! -
I have an old iPhone and would like to upgrade without paying a fortune.
Hello, I have a brand-new iPhone 5S gold that is still unopened in the box . It was replaced under warranty when I broke my old one. So I use the warranty to get a brand-new 5S and then I also got myself the 6+ that's what I use today . So if you are interested in a iPhone 5s gold the best offer I've found online was $263 somewhere in that range would be my preference . Please contact me at the email below and have a great day.
I also have several different cases for the phone some fall some not but I could send a picture.
Snr333@ EarthLink.net -
The nightmare of shopping for a new monitor.
First, I apologize if this has been asked before however Ive been searching the internet and on the Pshop forum and cant seem to find solid info.
The monitor will be used primarily for still image color correction in Photoshop (Im still using CS2) such as would be standard in the advertising industry.
I bought a used LaCie Electron Blue 22 IV (a CRT monitor) about 2.5 years ago and I have been pleased with it, but my OPTIX-XR calibration system claims the monitor now is outside calibration parameters [I suppose the CRT phosphors or whatever the heck they are, are burning out?]. The result is I can no longer get the monitor correctly calibrated and I am loosing shadow detail.
I want to replace this with a 23+/- LCD and $1000 is my target budget.
When I last went through the research 2.5 years ago (I dread going through this again) reliable info was very hard to come by and everything seemed to be up in the air as LCD technology was evolving. I bought a DELL (forgot the model#, but it used it same Philips LCD panel as the Apple Cinema but cost less), but he DELL had brightness uniformity issues so I sent it back.
I lucked out and found the used CRT locally (for about $200) which rescued me.
What are the current market options?
Ive read where the La Cie 324 is recommended as a solid budget solution for color correction work. Can anyone share their experience with this monitor?
Ive always read mixed assessments of the Apple Cinema Display, but it is still an option.
Any other monitors on the market I should know about in my price range?
Additionally, if anyone can point me to respected online reviews which have real substance it would be a huge help.
Thanks a bunch for any input.
-LovegasolineThanks for all the well considered replies.
So, there is a dividing line here it seems. Perhaps wide-gamut is a relative term without an objective reference and is being thrown around too loosely (i.e. marketing teams)?
The idea that only LED is wide gamut further confuses things. But, I can understand the point being made...and perhaps the terms has been applied too loosely?
Apple's monitor line hasn't been updated for a while and rumors abound about a new generation of Apple LED monitors. Even speaking of vaporwear, I imagine the first gen will be pricey as are all other LED monitors on the market. Maybe the price will come down if it is marketed widely...but this is all speculation at this point. I could get a smaller (maybe used) Apple Cinema Display to tide me over and see what the market brings in the next 6 months. But I think LED monitors will just be out of my price range.
The other issue and I suppose this goes for the 'almost' wide gamut monitors as well, like the NEC 2690/2490, is the limitations in Apple's computer hardware & Pshop to really take advantage of true wide gamut monitors. A few years back Karl Lang wrote the an article about this. I'm a little lost in the technicalities and have not kept abreast of them, so I have to ask, has the hardware/software evolved since then to accommodate the monitor technology?:
http://www.outbackphoto.com/tforum/viewtopic.php?TopicID=1700
"A wide gamut LCD display is not a good thing for most (95%) of high
end users. The data that leaves your graphic card and travels over the
DVI cable is 8 bit per component. You can't change this. The OS, ICC
CMMs, the graphic card, the DVI spec, and Photoshop will all have to be
upgraded before this will change and that's going to take a while. What
does this mean to you? It means that when you send RGB data to a wide
gamut display the colorimetric distance between any two colors is much
larger. As an example, lets say you have two adjacent color patches one
is 230,240,200 and the patch next to it is 230,241,200. On a standard
LCD or CRT those two colors may be around .8 Delta E apart. On an Adobe
RGB display those colors might be 2 Delta E apart on an ECI RGB display
this could be as high as 4 delta E.
It's very nice to be able to display all kinds of saturated colors you
may never use in your photographs, however if the smallest visible
adjustment you can make to a skin tone is 4 delta E you will become
very frustrated very quickly.
...and...
Only the Eizo 210, 220 and NEC2180WG have 8-10-10 paths. If you really
want to know... the path in the Eizo is "8-14bit3D-8-10bit1D-10" go
figure that one out ;-) The 2180WG has an actual 10 bit DVI interface
with a 10-10-10 path but nothing supports it so you can't use it yet -
but for $6500 your ready when it does ;-)"
Any comments on that? I certainly do not want this to evolve into a dissertation : )
Real world, is the NEC 2490/2690 worth the price?
Still gathering opinions, so keep any ideas/recs coming if you have them.
Thanks again,
Lovegasoline -
A consent for a new eula, please explain the ramification of these new terms
4. Your Compliance With This Agreement.
You acknowledge that your compliance with the terms of this Agreement may require you to provide certain notices to, obtain certain rights from, and impose certain obligations on your Clients and/or users of the websites hosted by the Services. To that end, you agree that each website for which Adobe provides Services on your behalf (including, if you are a Partner, your Clients’ websites) will contain a clear and conspicuous link to a terms of use and a privacy policy that comply with all applicable laws, rules, and regulations.
5. Partner Obligations.
(c) You are responsible for your Clients’ compliance with applicable laws in connection with their use of the Services.
(g) You have or will obtain all rights necessary for you to grant Adobe the licenses granted in Section 16 (“Content”), below.
16. Content.
You (if you are a Site Owner) or your End Users (if you are a Partner), and/or each such party’s respective licensors, retain ownership of any information, content and/or materials that they submit in the course of using the Services (“Content”); however, Adobe needs certain rights to Content in order to provide the Services. Accordingly, you hereby grant to Adobe and its service providers and designees a worldwide, non-exclusive, transferable, sublicensable (through multiple tiers), royalty-free, perpetual, irrevocable right and license, without compensation to you: to use, reproduce, distribute, adapt (including without limitation edit, modify, translate, and reformat), create derivative works of, transmit, publicly display and publicly perform such Content, in any media now known or hereafter developed.
please explain the ramification of these new terms
Thank you,
LanaHi guys,
Correct as Liam noted there are various topics on these concerns.
However if still having issues/concerns I would suggest posting in the original thread below after reviewing Magda's response.
- http://forums.adobe.com/message/4353638
Kind regards,
-Sidney -
My ancient white Macbook's hard drive failed. The Genius Bar said to buy a new drive online and they'd install it for me. But they didn't say what to buy. Are their limitations i should be aware of? Brands to look for or avoid? Size? RPM? GB? RAM?
Check out Other World Computing (OWC) at macsales.com. That's where I buy all of my Apple hardware and they give great deals and give you search results based on your specific Mac.
As a matter of fact, here's a more direct link:
http://eshop.macsales.com/MyOWC/Models.cfm
Go there, select your MacBook from the list, then select "Internal Drive Options (Hard Drives, SSD, CD & DVD Drives, etc.)." This should take you to the hard drives that are compatible for your MacBook. Let me know if you need anything else! -
But I'm concerned with the proprietary aspect of the software
Most of if not all of the business software are windows based.and the supplemental software that is there for iOS just doesn't ease my concerns
I really have to have excel, word, outlook, work effectively not just apps that make it similar to appease me, with a ambiguous imply that it might happen later
Lets face it Mac is a sizable investment, another thing I find disappointing is that allele got rid of the 17 in screen , as I'm getting older an need a larger viewing range
The question is are they going to address these items if not I'm going to move on and go for HP very shortly
I don't need retina display not hat important and not worth the cost
ShmorsSince your older like me and didn't get one of the last 17" MacBook Pro's with Snow Leopard, and also you likely won't like the new generations of the Mac operating system that Apple keeps releasing on a annual basis now.
My suggestion is to get yourself a nice 17" anti-glare laptop from a PC vendor preferably with Windows 7 as that will be supported until 2020.
Windows 8 will be a sudden shock, as also is the OS X Lions that come on all new Mac's now.
Even though there is OfficeMac, the fonts and features are not the same as on Windows so sharing files with PC users is going to be a pain and there is ALWAYS that one piece of software you need that isn't on OS X and only on Windows, so it's like all we Mac users have to wind up running Windows eventually anyway.
So we are screwed basically and it's best just to stick with what you know.
As a Mac user for over 20 years, I've found Apple's products lately to be undesirable, childish and gimmicky, so I'm running Windows 7 on mine until it's dead or Johnny Iv'es rescues us from goofball iOSfication. -
Urgent help for extremely new newbie - please.
I have been asked to set up a Labview program to graph and log
thermocouple temperature measurements from two Keithley 2001 Multimeters
and a DC voltage from HP 34420A nano Volt/Micro Ohm Meter. All three are
instruments are IEEE interfaced to a Windows 98 machine running Labview
(version 5.0 I think.) I have a couple of weeks to get the job done.
The problem is that I have never used Labview. I am an experienced C,
Fortran, BASIC programmer but this graphical system is completely new.
My situation is complicated because I am told the experienced person who
was originally going to set this up left under bad circumstances and
took many of the manuals. I would greatly appreciate any and all help I
can get.
Please feel free to send responses directly to me.
[email protected]
Thanks,
Stan ThomasIn article
<[email protected]>,
Stan Thomas
wrote:
> I have been asked to set up a Labview program
to graph and log
> thermocouple temperature measurements from two
Keithley 2001 Multimeters
> and a DC voltage from HP 34420A nano Volt/Micro
Ohm Meter. All three are
> instruments are IEEE interfaced to a Windows 98
machine running Labview
> (version 5.0 I think.) I have a couple of
weeks to get the job done.
> The problem is that I have never used Labview.
I am an experienced C,
> Fortran, BASIC programmer but this graphical
system is completely new.
> My situation is complicated because I am told
the experienced person who
> was originally going to set this up left under
bad circumstances and
> took man
y of the manuals. I would greatly
appreciate any and all help I
> can get.
>
> Please feel free to send responses directly to
me.
>
> [email protected]
>
> Thanks,
>
> Stan Thomas
>
>
All manuals are available at
http://www.natinst.com/manuals/
They also have an example program database at
http://www.natinst.com/support/epd/
Sten Karlson
D/A Production AB
SWEDEN
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
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