IMac Aluminum (intel-based) - Stuck in restart and disk stuck in drive.

I've recently been having some issues with my new iMac (purchased in April of 2008).
First, I inserted an MP3 disk with actual files on it which was created on a PC and (1) have not been able to access the disc, (2) not been able to eject the disk (and have read all post pertaining too) and (3)the disk remains as an icon on my desktop.
Second, and in my view a result of the stuck disk, the computer gets stuck when I ask it to restart. It will wipe all icons from the screen, and remain just with my desktop background for hours. None of the keyboard commands work, the mouse still moves, but it seems to be stuck before turning off and restarting.
The above two problems have now been going on for the better part of 3 weeks.
If anyone has had this problem, can give advice or answers it would GREATLY APPRECIATED and save me a trip to the genius bar. Please help!
Ryan

I'd go ahead and force a shut-down by holding the power button down. I've had to do that a couple of times myself for one reason or another and have not had problems as a result.
Once it's shut down wait a few moments and start it back up while holding down the mouse button. I'll bet that this will work for you.
Rick

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a brody - Using a second Mac as a display for a first
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1587927
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My 20" 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo had become almost useless due to freezes and crashes- with NO crash reports in the logs.
They were often preceeded by video glitches, so I assumed it was a bad video card- unfortunately soldered to mother board.
Apparently, from forum postings, this is not an uncommon problem. The computer would run longer if the day was cooler, but rarely more than 10 minutes, so I suspected it was aggravated by heat.
Then I found this post from Bodomann on an Apple Support forum:
"Following up on my previous posting regarding my son's late model 2006 iMac that required a $900 logic board replacement:
Turns out the problem is apparently related to a bad CPU temp sensor. I installed 'iMac Fan Control' (Google it) which reported the CPU temp always at 32 degrees Fahrenheit (obviously incorrect). The same software allowed me to adjust the CPU fan manually. After multiple trials I set the CPU speed to 2800RPM after which the system would run forever - never freezing with the dreaded grey box 'reboot me' screen. I tried several times reverting the software to default speeds and the system would always crash within 10 minutes. "
I downloaded free Fan Control 1.2 for Imac from Derman Enterprises (they have an Intel iMac and a Mac Book/Pro version). It installs as a system preferences control panel. I cranked up all three fan speeds. The fans sped up noticeably. Horizontal lines have gone from screen (so far), no color artifacts and no crashes yet. I may have a real computer back! Hope Apple checks this out-
The control panel also gives the temps sensors are reporting at the CPU, hard drive and DVD drive. The CPU sensor reports the CPU temp as 32 degrees F- which is clearly wrong, unless Apple has been installing little refrigerators inside.
So thanks to Bodomann for posting- Hats off and three cheers to Derman and Cristoph for source code.
http://www.derman.com/iMac-Fan-Control
http://www.lobotomo.com/products/FanControl/index.html

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I have a 2007 iMac Intel Core Duo 2.4Ghz (4 meg RAM) with a hard drive in need of repair, according to Disk Utility (and repeated by DriveGenius 3.) The Repair option is not available. I have had occasional difficulty with this particular Mac, and this is actually my second hard drive,and it is out of warranty. I had already planned to replace this computer later this year.
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Currently the Library is on EHD 1 and you want to copy it to EHD2?
Connect them both to the iMac. Make sure EHD2 formatted Mac OS Extended (Journaled) and drag the iPhoto Library from EHD 1 to EHD 2
To open either Library with iPhoto 11: Hold down the option (or alt) key key and launch iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library'
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Regards
TD

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These are related but not identical issues. Their causes are outlined in Intel-based Mac- Startup sequence and error codes, symbols. Solutions may be found in:
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Mac OS X- Gray screen appears during startup
In most cases the problems may be caused by one or more of these:
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b. Boot drive's directory has been corrupted - Repair with Disk Utility.
c. Critical system files are damaged or deleted - Reinstall OS X.
d. The disk drive is physically non-functional - Replace the hard drive.
Note that the information I have provided is what Apple recommends, If other users suggest different solutions than found here, then be sure what they recommend does not impact on your warranty, if any, or ability to get continuing Apple service.
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If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
The main difference if you are using Lion or Mountain Lion is that you must first boot from the Recovery HD. Simply boot from the Recovery HD to perform the above.
Reinstall Snow Leopard Without Erasing The drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
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If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
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Will Mountain Lion work on my 4 year old iMac with Intel Core 2 Duo processor and a 2.66 gHz.
Really do not want to load it and find there are issues.
Oh I really not a big tech guy I just want everything to work well.
And I'm just about to purchase a Mac Book Pro as well.
Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated
Cheers

I also have a 4 year old iMac 24". it is the 3.06 GHz Core 2 Duo. I have been running Mountain Lion since it was released, and before that Lion. Runs great. Over the last month I have noticed some slow data transfers from a USB harddrive. But not enough to do any research. I use a USB harddrive for my Time Machine backup and notice no problems or slow transfers while the Time Machine backup runs. My iTunes has its nedia files on a USB harddrive and is used to watch videos, play music and share photos on the AppleTV. I also use Aperture on the iMac to store and manage 20,000 photos.
I have 6 GB of ram, 4GB and 2GB memory sticks. I know it is best to have identical ram sticks but my iMac model cannot run 8GB of ram and I feel 6GB is better than 4GB.
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you know you should really ask the legal department. though they will just say it is illegal becuase they probably want you to buy there product. I think that I will sell the logic board an just take my money online and get something cheap. So okay. If you learn from apple that you can do a hackintosh or whatever you call it. Tell me on a my next question.

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First, bought the iPod (20gig w/ photo display). Love it. Still use it. Never a problem.
Then bought a MacBook in '06. Love it. Only a few problems along the way but easily fixed.
So, based on that, bought the 20" aluminum intel-iMac (2.4GHz, 2GB memory, 320HD)in October. Loved it. Never a problem. Not one. Until...
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iMac waits 3-20 minutes before it feels like "waking up" after I've powered it on, and when it does finally boot-up into OS it restarts upon a whim, sometimes after half an hour or so and sometimes after just a few minutes. Problem.
After searching the discussions and reading through the posts I can't find a solution.
Any suggestions?
(There's nothing external connected to iMac except the keyboard. There are no 3rd party upgrades. All updates successfully downloaded. And I've unplugged the power cord several times. It is the only way to get the iMac to power on and, eventually, boot up again.)
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Thanks for the reply, Dennis.
I was able to try the SMC instructions and use Disk Utility before posting my question. It didn't help.
Since posting my question I talked to the Apple guys where we purchased our iMac and after discussing the problems they're quite certain it is a hard drive problem. I take it in tomorrow.
The problem with my post is that I left out the most glaring symptom (good thing I am not a doctor).
My Mac's start-up disk is not named "Macintosh HD". It was. Now it is named ""?????????. So, even though both "Repair Disk" and "Apple Hardware Test" came up just fine, no problems, there is something wrong with my Startup Disk. I had hoped upgrading to Leopard using the "erase and install" method would fix the problem. It didn't. And I just now brought the iMac to its original "Tiger" state and the startup Disk is still called ""?????????. The Apple guys say HD problem. They'll figure it out for certain on Monday.
Thank goodness for back-up hard drives.
Thanks again Dennis for your input.
Tulliver

Intel-based iMac stuck in grey screen with spinning wheel. SMC::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMBadArgumentError(0x89)

Hi guys,
since yesterday my Intel-Based iMac doesn't boot normally, its stuck in grey screen with a spinning wheel.
Its an Intel-based iMac 21.5'' purchased in 2011, and i recently (2 months ago) upgraded it to Mavericks.
-2 weeks ago, i installed smcFanControl app
-Tried start up in Safe Mode by holding Shift but its not working. i think i hear fans are working more than they were before the problem occurs.
-entered Single User Mode and i get an error
SMC ::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMCBadArgumentError(0x89) fKeyHashTable=0x0xffffff8029fa1000
-followed some instructions found online, but can execute the correct commands in SingleUserMode
tried to remove FanControl as explained here: http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/110667/errorr-kernel-smcsmcreadkeyactio n-in-console
any ideas what may caused this and how can i fix this?
Thanks in advance

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, boot from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

IMac Aluminum (intel-based) - Stuck in restart and disk stuck in drive.

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