IMac Durability

Is a 27" iMac hardware likely to last at least 8 years?
I have been a mac user since the Mac Plus, but I have never bought an iMac... I have a 27" i7 on order, and even outside of the issues reported here I wonder if I made the right choice.
In the more recent past I bought the low end of the PowerMac line (which would now be Mac Pro) which kept getting more and more expensive... My last purchase was the PowerMac G5 2.3GHz Dual Core.
I always went with the high end line because the usage pattern I have (which I how I justify the cost) is that I use the machine for 4 years and then pass it on to another family member at home who uses it for 4 years until I get a new one, then repeat. So a Machine gets used regularly for 8 years in this house.
Because it is going to being used so long I buy a fairly powerful processor which meant a PowerMac. This has worked well and the hardware has never been an issue... In fact I have machines older than 8 years that work just fine. Though my last G5 PowerMac had gotten uncomfortably expensive...
With the 27" iMac i7, the iMac finally had enough of a high end processor to future proof it enough to consider it. While I really dislike all-in ones on principle, it is also about time to get a new display and pass this one on with the Power Mac as that other person in the family really could use a better monitor than the very old small CRT they have... And the when i saw the display in the Apple Store I was impressed.
With my finances going south , and the Mac Pro SOOO expensive, I ordered a 27" i7... But I am wondering if maybe I've made mistake even outside of the current issues.
You usually get what you pay for... and I am wondering if the iMac hardware is built well enough to last at least 8 years.
My G5 PowerMac (and I assume the same for Mac Pro) is built like a tank to last... So what about iMac's? Are they up for a marathon and not just a sprint?
Thanks,
- Karen

Hi Karen,
I'm afraid nobody will really be able to answer to this question. All I can tell you is my September 2003 model iMac (G4 USB 2.0), purchased in January 2004, which is already officially classified as "vintage",
is working fine since now 6 years.
I don't mention older QuickSilvers and such, because they still were made in the US which was probably a better quality.
If I were you, I'd go for an AppleCare Protection Plan from the beginning, and start using my new iMac in a very complete and thorough way, import into iTunes your entire physical CDs library you have home one by one, use demanding applications that trigger internal fans, etc, all that at during the first months you own it.
That way, if any hardware defect should affect your iMac, it would break at once, and not after two or four years when it's too late.
Then you would have your expensive and inaccessible spare parts duly replaced by Apple, all under warranty so you can be sure of the quality of replacement parts.
Saying this because that's what happened to both my iMacs:
After only a few weeks, my iLamp had its motherboard and another very expensive part (the one that drives light to screen) replaced under warranty, so it has been working good ever since,
and my C2D, the very last white iMacs, after a few months had its superdrive replaced, under warranty of course, after I imported my entire CD library.
You know,
the iMac is probably enough for your use, if you can keep a computer that's up to eight years old,
but one thing is certain: with a Mac Pro, when it gets old and needs some repairs after the three years warranty, it is much more easy and natural to take it apart etc,
than an all-in-one computer?

Similar Messages

IMac or wait for new MacBook Pro 2013 or 2014?

I have a mid 2007 iMac model, and my PC laptop recently died- I am debating right now as to whether I should buy the iMac 2013 since it was recently updated or just wait for the MacBook Pro update said to be released sometime this month. I'm in need of a new computer for sure and can last for a bit on my iMac (it's staring to get really slow). I personally would want a MacBook Pro so I could bring it to school/classes but also going to partition it play some PC Games (they're not that graphic hungry, just TERA, MMO's).
I was considering to get the 2013 iMac now and wait until next year for the rumored Sharp IGZO MacBook Pro coming out early 2014 sometime during the summer before next school semester starts. That being said, I don't want to risk the 2014 pro not releasing until AFTER the school semester.
My second option (the safer route) is to wait for the new 2013 MacBook Pro to release this month (hopefully) and that would be the end of it.
I just want to get the most out of my money as well as the reassurance that it would be energy efficient, durable to last for the rest of my college years. Thanks!

I just want to get the most out of my money as well as the reassurance that it would be energy efficient, durable to last for the rest of my college years
So how long is your college course?
The latest MacBook Pros have just been released. No need to wait any longer!

IMac failures

I have tried unsuccessfully to find an email address for Apple, where I can give critical feedback about my iMac experience and expect to have some response. The only feedback channels make it clear there will be no response and I fear it disappears into a black hole. So I'm posting this here in the hope that someone might offer a contact e-mail or reflect on my experience.
I bought a 21.5" iMac in 2010. Just after the end of the Applecare agreement, the DVD drive failed and had to be replaced at my expense. Last year the screen went blank, other than grey pixellated stripes and the faint log-in icon. Assessment by our local computer repair shop (not an official Apple retailer/repairer, but experienced in dealing with Apple issues) suggested that the graphics card (Nvidia G-force, I think) had failed, probably with the solder connections having melted as this was a problem that had been a common issue with my model/age of Mac. Indeed, they thought that Apple had repaired this fault free within a certain period of purchase. They suggested the most economical way of repairing this was a specialist in London, with a three month guarantee. I took this option and 3 months and 2 weeks after the return, the same fault occurred again.
I decided enough was enough and have bought a new iMac....albeit with some annoyance and without total confidence.
Am I just unlucky? Am I unreasonable to think this level of component failure is unacceptable? Apple charges a significant premium for its products (its record profits recently announced are unsurprising). Given the quality of build and design that they presumably regard as justifying this, is a 4.5 year lifespan for an iMac the norm? My use is purely domestic and way below the use that many Macs must experience.

Stamfordian
Yes Apple had a succession of badly designed iMacs. The white 24" iMacs were a particular problem. I had two fail with identical problems.
I also had problems with the first 24" Aluminium iMac with failed network card and power board. I insisted Apple replace it after the second repair still did not fix it.
The hard drive failed in my 27" iMac 30 days after I bought it. I was particularly upset because when I researched it, it was a known problem, but Apple did not warn me and I lost a fair amount of work.
In my long experience Macs suffer from design failures due to Apple trying to slim down the design too much, causing overheating, or because of some other unusual and unconventional technology which proves more experimental than practical. Some of their components, at least the cases, are better built and better material but otherwise Macs are not any more reliable than modern PCs which if bought from major suppliers are very durable.
Apple works hard at the myth of superiority to justify their higher prices, it is hard to get them to even talk about problems, they will just go silent unless it flares up into a major media story.
As compensation the service and support from AppleStores is good and the unified hardware/software leads to less finger pointing when you have a problem, Apple has to own the problem and fix it if it is under warranty. I have had entire units replaced if I made a clear case for it, without too much fuss.
Peter

Do I need to upgrade my iMac G4 to recognize Airtunes?

I'm running OS X 10.3 on my iMac G4 and I want to purchase Airtunes so that I can wirelessly stream music from iTunes to my stereo. Do I need to upgrade to 10.4 and purchase a Airport card (or something similar) in order to make this happen? Also, does the stereo need to have both a digital optical output and a digital optical input in order for this to work?
Is there anything else I need to know? Does anyone know the range within a household if the Aitunes device is on one floor and the iMac is on another? I've been reading several posts about Airtunes and the reviews seem mixed on range and durability.
Thanks!

I think you are referring to buying an Airport Express. AirTunes is built-into the Airport Express device.
According to Apple you need OS X 10.4 or higher. Your iMac must have n installed Airport or Airport Extreme card, whichever is compatible with your iMac model. Presently Airport cards a hard to find because Apple no longer makes them. However, Airport Extreme cards are readily available.
The stated maximum range is 150 feet. More information can be found here.

Using iBook 12" for PhotoShop CS2? Durability compared to PowerBook?

I'm thinking about getting a new Mac. I would really like an iMac 20", but that may be too much to spend right now.
I'm thinking an iBook would give me portability, as well as being able to connect to a monitor and keyboard while at home. I suppose it is like a Mac Mini, but with a built in monitor and keyboard.
My questions are:
1. How well will the 12" iBook run PhotoShop CS2, with 1.5GB of RAM? (Is the PowerBook 15" much faster?)
2. Is the iBook more durable than the PowerBooks? I prefer the look of the PowerBook, since the iBook looks like a student laptop, but if it's more durable, I guess I can live with that.
3. Is the 4500 RPM hard drive a big drawback compared to the 5400 RPM drives in the PowerBooks?
I will mainly be using Adobe CS2, Macromedia Dreamweaver and Microsoft Office.
Thanks for any help,
Steve

Hi Steve,
I have a 12" iBook G4 with 1.5gb of ram and I run the adobe creative suite just fine. The ram is definately going to help you in terms of running multiple CS applications at once.
As far as the hard drive is concerned...of course a 4200rpm drive is going to be slower than a 5400. But I dont consider it to be too much of a drawback. Most of my work in CS is done with an external firewire drive spinning at 7200 anyway.
As far as durability goes, i cannot comment on a powerbook as I have never owned one. I keep my iBook in an incase iBook sleve, its with me all the time and so far has been well protected. However, Powerbook or iBook...if you drop it..its going to get damaged in some way.
Good luck with your decision.

My iMac is a lemon.

I have a 27” iMac that I purchased in Late 2009 that has hadmore than a few problems. A few months after I purchased the iMac, Iexperienced flickering and then a complete loss of picture. I immediatelycalled Apple Care, I was then advised to take the iMac to the only authorizedservice center in Kuwait. It was determined that the LCD screen would have tobe replaced, which would take five weeks to clear customs and install. Accordingly,I had to pay the customs fees, which would cost roughly $100. I was wrong tobelieve that my iMac had all the bugs worked out after sitting in a workshopfor five weeks. In the summer of 2010, I noticed a few markings on theupper-right corner of the screen that did not disappear after I attemptedcleaning with a cloth. Also, a horizontal line that continuously scrolls up thescreen. The iMac is connected to an external monitor that does not show thesame symptoms, which led me to believe that the problem lies in the LCD screen.I called Apple Care in September 2011 to report the problem, and was advised totake my iMac to the authorized service center. Once again, they informed methat I needed to replace the screen as well as the optical drive. This processwould take another five weeks for repairs and would cost another $100 for customsfees. After I received the iMac back from the service center I still experiencethe horizontal line that runs from the bottom of the screen to the top. I havehad this iMac for over two years and have had numerous issues with the machine.I had purchased a 15” MacBook Pro a few years before purchasing the iMac andwas impressed with its performance and durability. I didn’t have any issues withthe 15” MBP but when the 27” iMac was released I immediately felt the need toupgrade. That turned out to be a mistake, as I would spend the next two yearsdealing with multiple issues. I don’t know if I should get a new iMac (and praythe issues have been worked out) or get something else. What do you think?

Your first mistake was in not strongly requesting a replacement for the iMac, especially after the second "fix". If you do purchase another Mac product, you ought to seriously consider Apple Care for extended protection and tech support.
Here's something you might try. If you have complete documentation on problems and repairs, get in touch with Apple and ask for the address of their Customer Service Executive or Manager. If you can get that address, send that person a letter documenting all of your problems and attempted "fixes", and ask if Apple would be willing to "do something" for you to retain you as a "satisfied consumer". Indicate that you also have a MBP that is perfoming to your satisfaction. Also, ask why you had to pay customs fees for repairs that were done under your warranty. While you've waited far longer than you should have, Apple may be willing to work with you on some kind of resolution. It may be worth a try.
As to another iMac, that's up to you. You may have had a lemon and the problems might not be repeated in another iMac. I've had my iMac for almost 3 years and it has performed quite well.

IMac G5 Graphic Card Replacement for blue screen problem

When I turn on iMac, I only see blue screen, the apple technician said Need to replace graphic card, Nvidia Gforce 7600GT 256.
1, can it install in IMac? Seem like it work for PC?
2, I had blue screen problem several time, I think I turn on iMac too long, so it burn out graphic card.
3, I have 2007 G5 24" screen model, is any durable and afford graphic card you recommend?
Where to buy for cheaper price?
Do I need to change mother board?
4, can I replace it by myself? Any picture or video for graphic card replacement?
Thank you.

If you look around, you might be able to find someone who will replace just the chip on the graphics card, which is what usually fails. It will take someone highly skilled; they really have to know what they're doing--it's not an ordinary soldering job.
Here's someone who found a non-Apple service to do this, and it proved to be far less expensive than a full logic board replacement. But I think this was in the UK.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4996559?start=0&tstart=0
I have no personal experience with this outfit, but you might check them out.
http://dttservice.com/

I am thinking of updating my iMac (OSX v10.6.8) to 10.9...

But I do not have a portable hard-drive to save all my data separately. As my iMac is 1TB, its quite hard to find a reliable portable hard-drive that's both durable and reliable.
I really would like to update to 10.9. To my knowledge, I have absolutely in no shape or form any kind of WD application or hard-drive (thank god).
Will any of the internal data (apps, photos, videos, music etc from different accounts) be lost if I decided to update now, without the backup?
Should I risk it?

As A Brody wrote ... Don't forget rosetta.
You have obviously had the machine some time and probably have many PPC apps, none of which will work with Mavericks. To check you could run through this link and compare with the apps you have.
Application compatibility table - RoaringApps
Frankly, Mavericks is a big step through two previous OS upgrades. I would stay put (and I follow my own thoughts here, I am sticking with SL).
Ah, just noticed A Brody's link includes Roaring Apps (in disguise).

Buying external hard drive for iMac

I need some extra hard drive capacity to tide me over until I buy a new computer. The Internet has a tremendous selection, but I'm afraid to place my order until I can be sure that what I purchase will work with my iMac, and I can't get any company to answer my request for buying information, even though I state that a purchase will be made as soon as I receive a reply.
I have USB and Firewire. Some people say not to worry because any and all external hard drives will work with my computer. Other people say to be careful because only certain ones are compatible with my computer. Some say that any external computer will work, but to get a guarantee that it will work "just in case". What is the truth? I have downloaded information on selecting a hard drive. It has information on rpm, capacity, price,etc, but I see nothing about Macs versus PCs, which is really what my question is. Put another way, what do I need to know when the issue is compatibility?
iMac DV (Special Edition) Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hello,
Most drives are going to work with either a PC or a Mac. There is very little difference in the requirements for newer drives. Basically, the computers are designed to work with drives that meet certain standards. And, as long as the drive is built to those standards, then any computer should work with it (provided it has the right port to plug it into).
So, basically, you can buy the drive you want, and it should work with either computer.
The main exception is going to be drives with specific features that require software drivers. For example, if the drive has a button that you press to activate an automated backup of another drive, then that feature is going to require software to make it work. So, your ability to use that feature is going to specifically depend on whether there is a version of that software for the machine you want to use it with.
As for specific models. I can recommend two models:
My favorite so far, is the Other World Computing "Neptune".
I have a "Neptune 120 GB" FireWire drive from OWC (Other World Computing)
They are at:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/owc-neptune-drives/
They are great, low-cost drives and work very well.
I got it with a 7200 R.P.M. Hitachi / IBM DeskStar drive. It is 120 GB in size.
The enclosure provides two FireWire 400 ports, and also provides it's own on/off switch.
The performance is great. It outperforms the internal drive installed in my Mac Mini. I haven't had a single complaint about the drive. So, that's pretty good
The drive does come with it's own power supply. So, you can use it with any computer (most computers don't provide enough power to run hard drives solely from the FireWire ports).
Mine is quiet.
It uses a fan-less design.
The inside chassis is made of steel, and is able to help dissipate heat from the hard drive.
It sometimes gets warm. But, I've never felt it being hot. Just slightly warmer than room temperature.
I had it running for over an hour yesterday (backing-up my main hard drive to it), and after a full hour of running constantly and writing files, it was just slightly warm.
I'd say it's a very good design, and dissipates the heat from the 7200 R.P.M. drive quite well.
Otherwise, I can hear the drive spinning if I specifically listen for it. But, don't ever hear it unless I am trying.
I have used the drive with Windows XP Home, and then later with my Mac. It's been used with both OS 10.3.x through 10.4.6.
It has been used with 2 different iMac G5 systems, a Compaq PC, a Hewlett Packard PC, a Mac Mini G4, and an iBook G4.
So, compatibility should be fine with just about anything.
If you want a drive with more options (multiple connection interfaces, etc.), then I would be comfortable recommending any of the models OWC sells. They know their stuff, and you can be certain that their products will work with a Mac. If you're looking for guarantee's, you'll find them on their sales pages for everyone to see.
For example, scroll down to the bottom of the sales page for the 80 GB drive here:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/NPFW7080GB/
And, you'll see that they clearly list both Windows and Macintosh computers as being compatible. You'll find similar statements on the pages for every product they sell. They point out specifically what each device works with or needs on their sales pages.
And they are great on the phone. So, if you have any questions, just call them. They are very helpful.
The other model I have used is not as nice, but I can say it is built very, very solid.
That one is a Maxtor Personal Storage 3100 External USB 2.0 hard drive.
http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.5d2b41d3cef51dfe29dd10a1913460 68/?channelpath=%2Fen_us%2FSupport%2FProductSupport%2FExternal+Storage%2FPersonal+Storage+Family%2FPersonal+Storage3100
It has a 7200 R.P.M. Maxtor hard drive with a 2 MB cache in it. Mine is 80 GB (but it is available in larger capacities).
It is a good performer. But, it is slower than the FireWire Neptune that I mentioned above.
The durability of this particular unit is amazing though.
I purchased it used, and when I got it out of the box, my hands slipped and it fell about 6 feet onto a hard vinyl floor. No padding at all, a good solid and firm drop.
At that point, I knew that I had probably just wasted my money. I knew that if I plugged it in and it didn't work, that I would never know if it was defective when he sold it to me or if I damaged it.
But, I plugged-it in, and ran a full diagnostics on it. And, to my pleasure it worked great.
It didn't even suffer a single mark.
And, it is still working reliably today (on my wife's iBook G4).
I would personally recommend the FireWire "Neptune" from OWC the highest. But, I am impressed with the survival of the Maxtor. But, the Maxtor drive is noticeably slower due to the USB interface.
I hope this helps.

IMac Plastics & Stand Questions

Are the (poloycorbonite) plastics as good as regular plastics, I mean does it get brittle over time.
and how tough is the stand mount in the iMac?

Don't take this a glib statement, but "time will tell." My Apple Studio Display is over 5 years old and the polycarbonite has not yet cracked. Eventually everything deteriorates, but this seems to be some durable stuff.
The stand on my iSight looks to be high quality aluminum that is about 1/4" thick and has a strong feel to it.

Is there a dot matrix printer that works with iMac

Trying to find an impact printer to do invoices on an imac computer, but no luck so far. Any ideas?
Bill

The Epson Networking Impact Printers are designed for high capacity environments and are Mac OS compatible. The IP networking printer drivers built into Mac OS X support the IP Network dot matrix printers, both 9 & 24 pin.
For example, for the FX-890N Networking printer you can use the driver "Epson 9-Pin Series" as shown below:
Epson's full-featured, FX-890N Networking printer offers the durability and ease of use required for essential daily printing. This 9-pin, dot-matrix, narrow-carriage workhorse boasts an MTBF rating of 20,000 power-on hours (POH) and speeds of up to 680 cps (characters per second). Engineered for seamless integration, the FX-890N's interfaces include an internal 10/100 Base-TX Ethernet print server with support for Macintosh OS X.
Its easy-to-install 7.5 million-character ribbon cartridge boosts productivity and ensures a low cost per page, while its 400 million-character print-head life heightens its dependability. Included Epson Remote Configuration Manager software simplifies printer setup and setting selection. Ideal for rugged environments, the printer is a perfect drop-in replacement for the Epson FX-880/880+/980 or Okidata Microline 320/320 Turbo. It handles forms up to seven parts thick via four convenient paper paths, and its redesigned control panel features a lock-out mode and other intuitive functions. The printer is Novell tested and approved and is backed by Epson's comprehensive three-year warranty with technical support. The Epson FX-890N offers the durability and ease of use required for criticaldaily print requirements. Speeds through multipart forms,reports, labels and more at up to 680cps.Offers an MTBF rating of 20,000 POH and a 400 million character print head life.. Includes 10/100Base-TX Ethernet Interface for easy networking.
Printing Method: 9-pin, impact dot matrix
Print Speed:
Ultra Speed Draft: 680 cps (12 cpi); 566 cps (10 cpi)
High Speed Draft: 559 cps (10 cpi)
Draft: 419 cps (10 cpi)
Near Letter Quality: 104 cps (10 cpi)
Characters & Lines
Character Sets:
13 character tables
13 international character sets
Resident Bitmapped Fonts:
Ultra Speed Draft: 10, 12 cpi
High Speed Draft: 10, 12, 15, 17, 20 cpi
Draft: 10, 12, 15, 17, 20 cpi
Near Letter Quality (Roman / Sans Serif): 10, 12, 15, 17, 20 cpi, proportional
Bar Code Fonts: EAN-13, EAN-8, Interleaved 2 of 5, UPC-A, UPC-E, Code 39, Code 128, POSTNET, Codabar (NW-7), Industrial 2 of 5, Matrix 2 of 5
Characters per Line: 80 characters at 10 cpi
Line Spacing: 6 lines per inch default
Formatting:
1/6-inch or programmable in 1/432-inch increments
8 lpi option available on FX-890 Okidata Mode only
Paper Handling
Forms: Continuous multipart, original plus 6 carbonless copies, 1 + 6 copies with pull tractor, maximum thickness .018"
Envelopes:
No. 6 envelopes: 6.5" x 3.6"
No. 10 envelopes: 9.5" x 4.1"
Width:
Single sheets: 3.9" to 10.1"
Continuous: 4" to 10"
Cut-sheet feeder: 7.2" to 8.5"
Length:
Single sheets: 3.9" to 14.3"
Continuous: 4" to 22"
Cut-sheet feeder: 10.1" to 14"
Labels: Minimum: 2.5" x 0.94"
Roll paper: 8.5" width
Paper Feed Speed:
62 millisecond per 1/6"
5" per second, continuous feed
Paper Path:
Manual insertion: Front or rear in, top out
Cut sheet feeder: Top in, top out
Tractor: Front, rear or bottom in, top out
Pull push tractor: Front or rear in, top out
General
Printer Language :
Epson ESC / P
IBM PPDS
Okidata Microline (FX-890 Okidata Mode only)
IP Networking Interface:
EpsonNet 10 / 100Base-TX Ethernet Print Server
Input Buffer : 128 KB
Control Panel: Functions: Font, pitch, pause, tear off, bin selection, line feed, form feed, load, eject, micro adjust, top-of-form adjustment, panel lockout, reset, menu, default setting selection
Sound Level : 55 dB(A) (ISO 7779 pattern)
Rated frequency range : 50 – 60 Hz
Input frequency range : 49.5 – 60.5 Hz
Dimensions : 16.3" x 13.8" x 6.6" (W x D x H)

Performance of Mac mini vs iMac, Macbook Pro

The dual 1 G mirror door G4 in my office just blew up and I need to get my stuff off the drives and on to another Mac asap. For reasons of economy I'm tempted to go with a Mac mini (I have an unused monitor) but I'm not sure it's powerful enough. I will need it for some light (basically just adjustments and corrections) Photoshop image batch processing of CR2 files from a Canon 40D as well as email, database, web authoring and surfing. I'm also considering iMacs, Macbook Pros. Since I'm not familiar with the performance characteristics of the current crop of Macs I'd appreciate inputs from anyone who is. How would a (possibly beefed-up) Mac mini compare in speed and durability to an in-the- ball-park priced iMac or Macbook Pro. The Mac mini with 7200 rpm HD plus SSD with 8GB (max) RAM, with the SSD set as the boot drive ought to be quite fast, but would it be faster than the other choices, and would it be best bang for buck? Thanks for any insights.

See
For home use would you recommend the new mini server, the plain mini or the imac?
Not entirely the same discussion, but may help you

What do you recommend for me: MacBook Pro, iMac or Mac Pro?

I haven't decided what Mac I should buy. It's pretty hard for me. I'm fascinated with the iMac, MacBook Pro and Mac Pro. But I'm not sure what Mac is good for me. For now, I use my laptop for web browsing, sometimes photoshop and writing stories on notepad. But I'll probably do more later on such as developing 2D games and making music on GarageBand. I might make my own website with podcasts and possibly take advantage of Mac OS X's DVD creation software. I will also dual boot (Windows & Mac OS X which I'll use the most) and play games on it.
Money isn't a real problem. I only have $1,000 at the moment. But I'm going to get a job soon. I won't buy a Mac until the job is stable.
I don't know what to buy and not sure which one is the best for me. I like all 3 of them! I really like portability because I can take it anywhere. But I already have a notebook (not a Mac). I need a Mac that will last me a couple of years. Again, I'm afraid that newer stuff will come out and my computer will be inferior. lol.
So I'm hoping someone can help me come up with a decision. You guys/gals know more about computers than me. I'm new to Macs too. I became interested in Macs last year when I saw the Power Mac G5. I thought the tower looked awesome and then I started playing around with it.

I've never had an iMac wear out. My last one lasted four years and the guy who bought it from me on eBay reports that his is doing fine. It got HEAVY use in a dusty environment.
And Apple has been refining the iMac for years now. I keep hearing you emphasize durability, so that is why I am pushing it for you. No laptop will last as long. They operate at higher temperatures and take a beating. My Mac Book Pro already lost its back-lighting and has something wrong with the DVD eject feature. All repairable for free with Applecare, which I recommend. But my iMac will outlast my desire to own it, this I know for certain. I have the 20 inch and wish I had gotten the 24. If you're interested in my new 20", I will sell it to you for 1/3 off what I paid for it, and it comes with a transferable 3 year Applecare warranty. This way I could purchase the 24". It hadn't come out when I got the 20".
But first, come to the conclusion that you don't need an Apple laptop. That's the threshold decision.
Best of luck to you.

Backup Solutions for our iMac

We just narrowly escaped losing our hard drive due to maxing it out - 319GB or 320 used. The reason? I procrastinated creating a backup solution. Now we need to move forward and am looking for suggestions as to the best route. As background, our system currently consists of:
(1) Macbook Air (2012)
(1) iMac (mid 2007, Intel)
(1) 2wiregateway wireless router (AT&T Broadband)
Online back-up via Backblaze (am considering switching to Crashplan or Carbonite)
We need a solution that will provide:
automatic wireless back-ups of both machines though I could hardwire our desktop if need be - TC?
external disk storage for our media (e.g., photos, music and video files) - WD, SG, IOM linked to TC, needs to be backed up using TM
media server - access from Macbook Air, iPad (future), iPhone (future), any wireless device playing iTunes; e.g., Denon receiver (future need)
I purchased and tried to set-up a Seagate GoFlex Home option but the wireless set-up via the 2wire has been difficult and I've had no luck with linking it as a drive for Time Machine. I plan to return based on feedback (regarding my set-up options). Like everyone, we want to 'future proof', however, we're NOT large media purchasers so excessive storage is not an issue - mostly photo files. We're mainly focused on ease, durability and costs.
This is what i was thinking:
automatic wireless back-ups of both machines - Time Machine/Time Capsule ($300+)
external disk storage for our media - external harddrive (WD, SG, IOM) connected via Ethernet to TC or as it's a store server, hardwire this one (firewire) to the desktop. This too will need to be backed up using Time Machine ($150+)
media server - ? Again, secondary future need
Thoughts?

Thanks for all of the feedback. I've sat down and drawn out an updated solution (see below). I think this will meet all of our needs but would love all and any feedback including on my drive selections/options. Our modified 'need' list.
external disk storage for our media (e.g., photos, music and video files) [External Hard Drive FW800 connection]
automatic wireless data back-ups of both machines [Time Capsule]
bootable local back-up of both machines [External Hard Drive with Super Duper linked to Time Capsule]
media server - access from Macbook Air, iPad (future), iPhone (future) [iCloud]
network printer connection [Time Capsule]
off-site data back-ups of both machines [Back Blaze/Carbonite]
Does this make sense? Overkill? Thoughts regarding Iomega drives?

Aluminium iMacs – Heat Issue

The Set Up
In our studio we have a mix of iMacs (G5, Intel), Mac Minis (Intel) and Mac Pros. We run 10.5 and 10.6 along with Adobe CS3 or CS5 on them.
What we found is, that amongst these machines, Intel aluminium iMacs are the least durable of the lot.
Those being older than two years are prone to freeze up, show graphic glitches or the optical drives work very unreliable.
We gave some of these machines to a qualified repair shop, but they were not able to reproduce the problems we experienced.
Finding The Problem
While trying to get to the bottom of these issues I discovered smcFanControl which let's you monitor the temperature of internal components and adjust the respective cooling fans.
I installed it on nine machines and here is what I found.
A new iMac (i5, 27", less than 1 year) shows normal hard drive temperatures at around 30 - 35Cº.
Older machines (CoreDuo, Core2Duos, i7) were running their hard drives at around 45-50Cº (idle).
Those machines causing problems showed hard drive temperatures of 50 to 55 Cº in idle state.
Western Digital does not recommend to run its drives above 50C. Seagate does not recommend temperatures above 60Cº. In general it is assumed that a healthy working temperature for hard drives lies between 35 - 45Cº.
Please note, I was conducting these measurements in November.
My two year old 27" i7 has a problem with Spotlight, whose index seems to get corrupted frequently. Rebuilding the index every couple of month helps but the problem keeps coming back. During an export in After Effects I observed temperatures of up to 68Cº! In idle state I'm getting 45-50Cº.
Looking at the issues again – graphic glitches, non working or unreliable optical drives, slow or unstable performance – it all starts to make sense now.
Preliminary Conclusion
The cooling layout in these slick machines is anything but robust. What I assume is, that over time you can expect dust to build up internally, blocking the ventilation and thus causing temperature hot spots.
What surprises me is, that OSX 10.6 (retail) does not seem to see the need of turning up the cooling fans even when a hard drive runs near it's terminal operating temperature.
Further Steps
I will go ahead and give some of these machines an internal clean up. I might just as well give it a go and replace some of the battered hard drives with SSD's instead and see if this helps to keep temperatures in check.
I will let you know about my findings. I found so much useful help in this forum – was about time to give something back.

Hello KYL. There could be, as you postulated, a BT module problem (I am assuming you have an internal BT module).
You might try resetting PRAM:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
and also the SMC:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1543
Barry

IMac Durability

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for