Image - with a WriteOn effect

I'm trying to make a image draw on my canvas. I've got an image with tribal band styled lines that are really intricate and I'm trying to make them write on over the duration of my motion clip. I'd rather not copy the entire image with lines and use the write on behavior to make it work because it will take hours. Is there an easier way to do this. My source image is photoshop and the lines are one of the brushes I've got in photoshop.
Any Ideas?

I mean... you could, depending on the shape, animate some crazy shapes that you're using as a mask. But yeah... if it's intricate, the best way will be to make lines out of it...
Maybe you could use the replicator with the sequence replicator in some fun way to do this, but you'd still have to trace the lines for that by hand.
There isn't a quick and easy filter to drop on to make it do what you want.

Similar Messages

Creating an image with a Cloud Effect

Can someone please tell me how I can create an image with a
cloud effect like the photo located at the link below:
http://www.arizonamedicalclinic.com/
Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Nessa wrote:
> Can someone please tell me how I can create an image
with a cloud effect like the photo located at the link below:
>
>
http://www.arizonamedicalclinic.com/
>
> Thanks in advance for all of your help.
Draw a cloud shape. Fill it with white and add a black inner
glow.
Position the cloud shape over the photo. Press Shift and
select both the
cloud shape and the image. Choose Modify > Mask > Group
as Mask.
Linda Rathgeber [PVII] *Adobe Community Expert-Fireworks*
http://www.projectseven.com
Fireworks Newsgroup:
news://forums.projectseven.com/fireworks/
CSS Newsgroup: news://forums.projectseven.com/css/
Design Aid Kits:
http://www.webdevbiz.com/pwf/index.cfm

How do I create a cross dissolve when working with an Image with the Multiply effect applied?

FINAL CUT PRO X
I've added the Multiply effect to an image as it is black and white and I need it to blend in with the background - when I try to add a cross dissolve onto the image to fade it into the background the image will not dissolve with the applied effect, instead, during the dissolve the image is black and white, once the dissolve is complete it then applies the Multiply effect...
How do I make this so the multiply effect is applied during the dissolve?

Try making the clip with the Multiply Effect into a Compound Clip and then adding the Dissolve.
Andy

Render high quality 15 minute clip of still images with transitions - After Effects CC 2014

Hello, I am rendering a 15 minute composition comprised of a 3 high quality still images (5 mins for each image) with basic blur fades between each still at a res of 1440x900.
Rendering this out as a Quicktime movie is taking forever and results in a HUGE file size, can someone please recommend an alternative that will not sacrifice video quality?
Thanks!

He can't give you any specific advice because you didn't give us any specific information. How you are delivering your video makes a HUGE difference in what render settings you would use. If you're planning to send it for use in an NLE like Premiere, the advice would be different from if you were wanting to upload it to YouTube. Thus, he linked you to a resource that could best help you based on the limited information you provided.
Also, Todd comes on here in his free time. This is a user-to-user forum, not an official way to contact Adobe. We are grateful for any support we get here from official personnel.

Images with transperencies or effects created in InDesign are printing with bounding box

Hey everyone! My first post here, but I have been having fits over an
issue that keeps popping up.
If I give an image a drop shadow or create and overlay, I sometimes get the bounding box showing through on the pdf or the printed copy. What is causing this? I have read about the white box effect and the yucky discolored box effect, but this is a tad bit different. Hope someone can help. Thanks!

Thanks Peter! After your first reply I went down to the print shop and printed our problem document
using the YDB fix. It worked! I will keep the stitching info in mind
as well. Thanks for your help!

Rotating Image with Fade Effect

Ok looking to rotate an image with a fade effect; below is a rotating image code.
(Wanting this effect to be transitional and smooth. Transparency? Opacity?)
<script language="JavaScript">

</script>
Any ideas?

Here is the script I finally got working! It would have not came to me without your help guys!
<script>
var pictureWebPartName="Pictures"; // name of the picture library web part
var showThumbnails = true; //otherwise show full sized images
var randomImg = true; //set to true to show in random order
var useCustomLinks = false; //true to use second column as URL for picture clicks
var RotatingPicturesLoopTime = 5000; //2000 = 2 seconds
var imgToImgTransition = 1.0; //2 = 2 seconds
// don't change these
var selectedImg = 0;
var imgCache = [];
var imgTag;
function RotatingPictures()
imgTag = document.getElementById("RotatingImage");
//Find the picture web part and hide it
var Imgs = [];
var x = document.getElementsByTagName("TD"); // find all of the table cells
var LinkList;
var i=0;
for (i=0;i<x.length;i++)
if (x[i].title == pictureWebPartName)
// tables in tables in tables... ah SharePoint!
LinkList = x[i].parentNode.parentNode.parentNode.parentNode.parentNode.parentNode.parentNode;
// hide the links list web part
LinkList.style.display="none";
break;
if (!LinkList)
document.all("RotatingImageMsg").innerHTML="Web Part '" + pictureWebPartName + "' not found!";
//Copy all of the links from the web part to our array
var links = LinkList.getElementsByTagName("TR") // find all of the rows
var url;
var len;
for (i=0;i<links.length;i++)
//if (links(i).id.match("row")!=null)
if (links[i].childNodes[0].className=="ms-vb2")
len=Imgs.length
Imgs[len]=[]
Imgs[len][0] = links[i].childNodes[0].childNodes[0].href;
if (useCustomLinks)
if (links[i].childNodes[1].childNodes.length>0)
{ Imgs[len][1] = links[i].childNodes[1].childNodes[0].href; }
else
{ Imgs[len][1] = "" }
if (Imgs.length==0)
document.all("RotatingImageMsg").innerHTML="No images found in web part '" + pictureWebPartName + "'!";
for (i = 0; i < Imgs.length; i++)
imgCache[i] = new Image();
imgCache[i].src = Imgs[i][0];
if (useCustomLinks)
imgCache[i].customlink=Imgs[i][1];
RotatingPicturesLoop();
// now show the pictures...
function RotatingPicturesLoop()
if (randomImg)
selectedImg=Math.floor(Math.random()*imgCache.length);
if (document.all){
imgTag.style.filter="blendTrans(duration=" + imgToImgTransition + ")";
imgTag.filters.blendTrans.Apply();
url=imgCache[selectedImg].src
if (useCustomLinks)
{ RotatingImageLnk.href=imgCache[selectedImg].customlink; }
else
{ RotatingImageLnk.href = url; }
if (showThumbnails)
// convert URLs to point to the thumbnails...
// from airshow%20pictures/helicopter.jpg
// to airshow%20pictures/_t/helicopter_jpg.jpg
url = revString(url);
c = url.indexOf(".");
url = url.substring(0,c) + "_" + url.substring(c+1,url.length);
c = url.indexOf("/");
url = url.substring(0,c) + "/t_" + url.substring(c,url.length);
url = revString(url) + ".jpg";
imgTag.src = url;
if (document.all){
imgTag.filters.blendTrans.Play();
selectedImg += 1;
if (selectedImg > (imgCache.length-1)) selectedImg=0;
setTimeout(RotatingPicturesLoop, RotatingPicturesLoopTime);
// utility function revString found here:
// http://www.java2s.com/Code/JavaScript/Language-Basics/PlayingwithStrings.htm
function revString(str) {
var retStr = "";
for (i=str.length - 1 ; i > - 1 ; i--){
retStr += str.substr(i,1);
return retStr;
// add our function to the SharePoint OnLoad event
_spBodyOnLoadFunctionNames.push("RotatingPictures");
</script>

<center>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tr>
<td id="VU" height="125" width="160" align="center" valign="middle">
<a name="RotatingImageLnk" id="RotatingImageLnk" alt="click for larger picture">
<img src="/_layouts/images/dot.gif" name="RotatingImage" id="RotatingImage" border=0>
</a>
<span name="RotatingImageMsg" id="RotatingImageMsg"></span>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center>
Thanks again guys!

Image with a Effect flicker

How I can create a Image with Effect flicker
Thanks

The nearest behaviour I can think of that you can achieve
inside RH is with the Rock n Roll DHTML effect. You can try adding
this and playing settings to see if this will give you what you
want. If it doesn't I suspect the answer will be to use something
outside of RH to produce the required effect and then import
it.

How to place multiple images in batch with drop shadow effects on room backgrounds at the same position?

I want to place multiple images of hand paintings with drop shadow effects on room backgrounds to make them look as if the paintings are hanged on the room walls. I know how to do it one by one, but that takes time and I want to do it in batch at once.
I am quite a beginner for adobe photoshop CS6. I belive such an automated task is possible through 'Automated Batch' function and/or 'Create Droplet' function. Kindly share your expert opinion.

If you want to go with Batch I would recommend creating an Action of more or less these steps:
• set the resolution to the same as the background image’s
• change the image from Background Layer to regular Layer if necessary
• convert it to a Smart Object
• add a Drop Shadow Layer Style to the image (do not use Global Angle)
• place the background image (File > Place …)
• move it behind the image layer
• Image > Reveal All
• make Selection from that layer’s transparency (cmd-click its icon in the Layers Panel) and use Image > Crop
• select and transform the image layer to fit the intended position
This would naturally work out best if the images had the same size and proportions.
For the reflection on the floor duplicate the image, flip it vertically, move it in position and reduce its opacity to maybe 10%.
Realistically you may have to hide it partially behind the pillows, a Vector Mask would be an option.

How to place multiple images of hand paintings with drop shadow effects on room backgrounds?

I want to place multiple images of hand paintings with drop shadow effects on room backgrounds to make them look as if the paintings are hanged on the room walls. I know how to do it one by one, but that takes time and I want to do it in batch at once.
I am quite a beginner for adobe photoshop CS6. I belive such an automated task is possible through 'Automated Batch' function and/or 'Create Droplet' function. Kindly share your expert opinion.

If you want to go with Batch I would recommend creating an Action of more or less these steps:
• set the resolution to the same as the background image’s
• change the image from Background Layer to regular Layer if necessary
• convert it to a Smart Object
• add a Drop Shadow Layer Style to the image (do not use Global Angle)
• place the background image (File > Place …)
• move it behind the image layer
• Image > Reveal All
• make Selection from that layer’s transparency (cmd-click its icon in the Layers Panel) and use Image > Crop
• select and transform the image layer to fit the intended position
This would naturally work out best if the images had the same size and proportions.
For the reflection on the floor duplicate the image, flip it vertically, move it in position and reduce its opacity to maybe 10%.
Realistically you may have to hide it partially behind the pillows, a Vector Mask would be an option.

Load images with some effects

Hi, I wanted to load java images with some effects like we have in power point like blinds or appear in Java swing when user clicks on the image.
I have these specific questions in mind:
1.Is there a way to do this in Java?
2.Also how will this behave when the image to load is huge like 25 Mega Pixel?
3.If we are dealing with large images being switched, what mechanism should be used for incorporating images in the application?
4. Can there be a provision of displaying an image over another one with the one on the top having some transparency?
Thanks,
Sandeep

Kayaman wrote:
835085 wrote:
how can this be done? do you have any pointers. i have played with swing earlier but did not know about the effects thingy.Well I didn't mean that you'd have ready made powerpoint-like effects (unless someone has created a library for that kind of stuff). I mean Java is a programming language, Powerpoint is a crime against nature.
You'd need to program those effects (or find a library that does).OK, i think i will have to try this out first.
The point is that i wanted to confirm to go with java or choose python.
I need to track user inputs and display really large images. Now the interaction is really on graphical side like have moving images in the application which are transparent. I know Java but havent played with images yet and was not sure whether it will be worth spending days on this and then switch to python.
>
well my scenario will be 2x2 matrix of screens. it will be a 25 MP screen. so wont this work now in this context?Sure, if you have the resolution.
i was thinking in terms of response time. any inputs?And I was answering in terms of response time. The Fullscreen API. Of course you'll need to keep all the images in memory (or at least a certain range if you want to show them fast enough).
4. Can there be a provision of displaying an image over another one with the one on the top having some transparency?Sure.any pointers?Well, Java does support transparency and alpha channel. But you'll need to go through the APIs to find ways to do those.
Is there a reason why you want to do this in Java?I mentioned that I have worked on swing before but was not sure to do it in a totally new prog. language like python.

Problem with premiere pro effects controls

Hi, Merry Christmas;
I have a problem using keys with the opacity effect in the effects control panel; the following pictures should I think make my problem clearer to understand:
The image above shows that the opacity control of the correction gopro clip is at 100% which unless I've drunk too much champagne, is in full view on the screen!
I want to make a transition effect showing the raft appearing in the window of the following picture which is an Indian Granary above the Colorado river.
On my clip of the Granary I zoomed up to the window as to give the impression I get into the granary itself; When I arrive at this moment I begin, with key frames to have
the granary interior pass from 100% opacity to 0% at the end of the granary clip. Unless again champagne is very bad for my health and vision, I should see then the river
and the raft! Well I don't and that gives me nightmares! What is wrong? I add that to have a smooth and regular zoom I have used time remapping on the granary clip.
The granary clip is the one just above the correction gopro clip and overlapping it by the duration of the dissolve shown selected in the picture below(I could of course use a dissolve here, but I want to economize on a supplementary effect)
below is the view with the screen and the opacity of the granary clip at 25%. Normally the clip of the raft should be quite visible then! the red-orange on the right of the screen is the interior wall of the granary!
Thanks for any suggestions... Claude

Stacking in Adobe products is prototypically the top being the final thing you "see". If you have two clips, one atop the other, you will normally see the top clip & nothing from the bottom clip ... unless the top-most clip is given some transparency by say bringing its opacity setting down.
Think of it as the bottom layer "feeds" up to the next higher layer and so on. What comes out at the top is what you will see as the final product.
Much of my work has been short interviews cut with b-roll & stills. The basic interview sits on V1, and I use V2 and only occasionally V3 for the b-roll & stills that I'll cut to for variety, information, or simply interest retention during the running of essentially the audio from V1. This works nice, as I can expand or trim the b-stuff as it seems right while playing back. Then if I want to put in a transition, as part of polishing, I can either trim out the V1 section and move the V2 clip "down" before adding transitions or do a razor on V1 on both ends and add it to the end of the clips. Typically I cut out the section.
The lesson is ... putting anything on a higher track replaces the viewable video of anything under it. Unless you reduce the upper tracks opacity.
Neil

Using still images with Final Cut (and the apple suite in general)

I have had a re-occuring and long term problem that has caused me many lost hours of head scratching and work arounds, and as of yet I have not been able to come up with a good solution.
Its to do with integrating still images with the Final Cut suite.
If I receive a high quality image from a client to use in their video and I then try importing it into Final Cut and animating it, it always ends up looking like a pile of ahem. Often I will get "swimming" lines appear across fine detail on the image, and parts of it will flicker as it moves across the screen. For instance, if I have a picture of some blinds or other fine detail (especially horizontal and vertical lines), when I add a grow and throw movement to it the detail will become very noisy - buzzing and flickering like mad.
I have found I can counter this by resizing the image in photoshop to a resolution closer to SD video (700w or 500h) - but I always end up losing detail, and the flickering and noise is only reduced, not eliminated. Other things that have helped are blur effects applied at a very low level, like 0.5 blur, so its not noticeable visually, but Final Cut seems to treat it differently and quieten the noise and flicker down.
However, all of these workarounds are ultimately still giving a reduced quality product.
Also, this problem is not necessarily constrained to Final Cut, I am currently fighting DVD Studio Pro because it is murdering the text quality in a stills slideshow I am creating - and in this situation there is no animation being applied. No matter what file type (psd, jpeg, tiff, png...) or size I output the text and images from Photoshop in, the moment DVD studio pro gets hold of it, it turns to cripe.
For a while I was putting it down to the fact that I usually edit in SD (PAL) formats, and there just wasn't the resolution available to reproduce fine detail. However, I do often see other people achieving pin-sharp fine detail on still images and text in SD formats (the Apple templates are a good example)
So, my question to you, oh great and high boffins, if you are dealing with still images and text, how do you do it? How do you work around any noise problems you have, and how do you produce those pin-sharp images (both moving and still) I see in other professional productions?
Quad G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

still images with too high a resolution will always cause problems. this is due to the detail of the image being finer than the scanline of the tv can display ... obviously this will caise the image to flicker as these details alternately appear and disappear as and when the scanline can display them. as you have discovered, the answer is to apply a very small blur, the effect being that the detail is spread by the blur such that the scanline can dislay it correctly.
text issues are often rooted in the same problem ... unless the text is placed very carefully (whole even number on the y axis) then the quality may be impaired due to the resulting interlacing/scanline issues

Importing images with Lightroom 2 & Camera RAW 4.5

The following query has been raised with Adobe Technical Support (5 days ago and I am still waiting for a response/reply. They claim to reply within 24 hours but they have not on this occasion......they seem to be ignoring me
Perhaps a fellow user can help to identify or resolve the problem.
Operating System:
Windows XP Professional (Service Pack 3)
Software:
Adobe Design Premium CS3 (10.0.1); Photoshop Lightroom 1.4 (which was working fine) and Lightroom 2 (on trial and not working particularly well)
I am using a trial download of Photoshop Lightroom 2 (with Camera RAW 4.5 in Photoshop CS3).
I am having a few problems with editing Lightroom 2 images in Photoshop CS3 but I understand that Adobe is currently investigating a solution to this problem.
I have also noticed another potential problem since I have started to import images from a computer drive to Lightroom 2 and converting the Manufacturers RAW files to DNG (with the option to leave the files at their current location/drive).
My RAW and JPEG files open ok in Camera RAW (v 4.5) for basic editing and subsequently to Photoshop for more detailed work. The problem is that all my images are now opening as Smart Objects by default in Photoshop CS3, as opposed to opening as a Background layer". (I have not knowingly opted to use the Open as Smart Object option.
I am not entirely sure how this came about but I have also lost the capacity to edit images with empty Levels adjustment layers or percentage (%) grey fill option).
I am able to highlight the respective layer and create the empty Levels adjustment layer, change the blend mode to either Multiply or Screen, fill the Layer Mask with Black (Alt & backspace), change the opacity level as desired, select the brush tool and change the foreground colour to white to enable the applicable Dodge or Burn processes.
Unfortunately, it does not function irrespective of the preferred opacity level. The Dodge or Burn feature is static with no effect on the image.
I cannot recall any settings to open all files as Smart Objects in Photoshop CS3 but would welcome some help in identifying such a setting if it exists. Alternatively, I would welcome any other suggested methods of correcting the above difficulties.
The same difficulties are evident when I try to use the Dodge or Burn features via the Edit and Fill option with a percentage of Grey and the Overlay Blend Mode.
The "Common Denominator" of the above difficulties appear to be Lightroom 2 and Camera RAW 4.5 (individually and or collectively) and now I am stuck between a rock and a hard place.
Are any other users experiencing similar issues or have any suggestions about how I might correct or resolve these problems? ......
I am not afraid of hearing or accepting that the "Dummy Factor" has played some part or how I may release myself from the said "Dummy Factor".....any help is welcome help.
Adobe Technical Support seems to be ignoring me......I wonder why?
Regards
Bob Wallace

Essentially you are wrapping the raw image data into a special type of layer, a "smart object". You can then revisit and fine tune the Camera Raw conversion as often as you want and take advantage of working directly on the raw data in its pre-Photoshop purity. You can also apply to this smart object layer a number of Photoshop adjustments and filters - and again redo and fine tune them as often as you wish.
You'll find them explained in a number of recent books. I know Scott Kelby is keen on them, there are examples on Russell Brown's site, and my own book last year on B&W strongly advocated their use.
Have a play.
John

Mixing photos with Ken Burns effect with 'still' photos

I am just beginning to experiment with iMovie '09. My medium is still photographs and my goal was to create a movie with these photographs, and send them to iDVD to test the quality of the final images.
I have 3 questions.
1. I started by using about 10 photos from iPhoto, then adding music and transitions. I used the same 10 slides, same music and transitions to make a second movie, but this time I used the Ken Burns effect on two of the photos. When I moved the movies to iDVD, the first one was fine, but in the second one, the 'jaggies' appeared in the iDVD version. Is it an 'all or none' proposition regarding the Ken Burns effect if I want to avoid images with jagged edges or is there a way to combine moving and still images?
2. The first time I tried to send the movie to iDVD I chose Share>iDVD. A drop down window appeared and it looked as if a movie had been created but when I opened the media/movies pane in iDVD, a message appeared saying "the project can't be used because it has not been prepared for sharing yet." What was actually happening when I chose Share>iDVD?
3. I have been reading other posts about sharing from iMovie to iDVD. Am I understanding correctly that I the largest size I can go to is 'medium'? In my experiments, I have been choosing 'large' and they look OK. (I chose 'large' because that was what was modelled in the tutorial.) Would I have trouble when it comes to burning them?

Is it an 'all or none' proposition regarding the Ken Burns effect if I want to avoid images with jagged >edges or is there a way to combine moving and still images?
You should be able to combine.
Open iMovie Preferences and put a check mark next to "Display Time as HH:MM:SS:Frames". This lets you edit more accurately and if there is an extraneous Ken Burns Frame you can see it.
he first time I tried to send the movie to iDVD I chose Share>iDVD. A drop down window appeared >and it looked as if a movie had been created but when I opened the media/movies pane in iDVD, a >message appeared saying "the project can't be used because it has not been prepared for sharing >yet." What was actually happening when I chose Share>iDVD?
Try saving your movie to either iTunes or the Media Browser first. When you send straight to iDVD it is expected DV or AIC or h.264. With photos only, none of these exist.
After sharing to the media browser or iTunes, if Share to iDVD still isn't working, you can open iDVD, find your movie in the Media Browser, and bring it into iDVD from there.
I have been reading other posts about sharing from iMovie to iDVD. Am I understanding correctly >that I the largest size I can go to is 'medium'? In my experiments, I have been choosing 'large' and >they look OK. (I chose 'large' because that was what was modelled in the tutorial.) Would I have >trouble when it comes to burning them?
Both will work. DVDs are 480i, so if you send in large, iDVD has to downscale. You may want to try it both ways to see which gives you better results.

Still image with motion has flicker pulsating problem

I use FCP 5.0.4
I have read the many threads about this subject and am still not able to succeed in getting rid of the flicker/pulsating in a still image with motion.
I would say about 25% of the stills with motion have the jitters; all the rest look great.
The first thing I tried was
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Field Shift:none
as well as
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter min, med, and max.
Maybe 5% were corrected with this, but the other 20% still had the jitters even after using a combination of the above or by themselves.
I just burned a test DVD using a variety of the persistently jittery stills from my current project and although the jitters change a bit, they were still there so all of these failed:
1. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Upper (odd)
2. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter minimal
3. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter max
4. Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
5. Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
6. All the tricks together which means
Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace set at Upper (odd)
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Shift Fields: none
Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
I know this issue has been kicked around a lot and i know some folks are not happy that it has to be kicked around at all. But I am doing something wrong because my DVDs look very un-PRO. Would anyone like to talk me through this nightmare preferably with as many details as possible since I am obviously missing something critical.
Thanks in advance.

There is no 'secret formula'. It just takes thinking through the issues.
1. Set the image size for each image that makes sense within the context of your project. Going significantly larger than the displayed area of that image (including movement) is just asking FCP to do additional work to resize the image. FCP is less sophisticated at resizing images than Photoshop. Use Photoshop and your planning of the movie to get the images to the appropriate size.
2. Wasted effort and totally irrelevant- you could set it to 7200 dpi if it makes you feel better.
3. Good idea - be sure to knock down areas of pure or very bright white. These are the elements that will give you the most trouble.
4. Don't do this unless you want to throw away HALF the picture information. Deinterlace deletes half the picture and then photoshop recreates it through interpolation of the remaining half of the picture. Why do this?
5. Make your determination based on what works. If you have properly exposed and sized the material, the need to blur is greatly reduced. ONLY do it on the images that need it. Why degrade every image if you do not need to do so?
6. See number 5
7. Lay out your time line early, view the work on an external broadcast monitor and only mess about with the images that require it.
In the psycho business they have term for much of the referenced post - it's called superstitious behavior. Basically it comes down to "It worked before so we recommend it to everyone without regard to their situation" ... here's another example:
Many years ago in my architecture practice, we had one of the early 512k macs (upgraded from the 128k!) I needed to show one of the interns how to create a project budget spread sheet in Excel. Inadvertently I clicked on Word, said "oops", closed it and opened Excel and we went to work.
A week later I was walking by the computer and overheard the same intern explaining how to work with Excel to another architect. "First you open Word, close it, THEN you open Excel", she explained. When asked by her 'trainee', why do you have to open Word first, wouldn't it just be easier to simply open Excel? Her answer was just perfect, "Well, it works every time, what's wrong with that?" so it goes ...
good luck with your project.
∏

Image - with a WriteOn effect

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