In Develop Mode, always Display As Shot White Balance

When adjusting WB for RAW images in Develop Mode, it would be really useful to have the As Shot WB visible in RH Pane, along side the Custom WB or other adopted WB.

and I guess, just undo after changing to As Shot, or is there someway more elegant?
I don't completly understand that... Do you mean that you just want to quickly review what the WB in your camera was for the photo, but you want to retain the custom WB setting that you made during developmen? If that is the case, yes, undo afterwards seems to be the best thing to do. If I remember correctly, there is no place in the metadata panel where one can view the original WB information (I don't have LR at my disposal at present).
The same should be true for the flash info, but I am not 100% sure about that right now. Look for it in the metadata panel switched to "EXIF". If an information is not there, it is probably not available in LR elsewhere (except perhaps via a plugin).
Note: The WB values (temp, tint) of "As Shot" do not necessarily equal those displayed by the camera of by the camera maker's software. Actual WB values heavily depend on the raw processing and camera profiles used, and because Adobe/ACR uses different ones compared to the camera maker, there may be substantial differences. I think there was a thread somewhere here in the forum about that...

Similar Messages

  • "as shot" white balance display

    *Where* do I find the "as shot" white balance for a photo I've already developed? I have Googled and searched the menus for 30 minutes, nothing! (not to mention, to mention, I've tried to post here 3 times, and had my message erased almost every time.)

    and I guess, just undo after changing to As Shot, or is there someway more elegant?
    I don't completly understand that... Do you mean that you just want to quickly review what the WB in your camera was for the photo, but you want to retain the custom WB setting that you made during developmen? If that is the case, yes, undo afterwards seems to be the best thing to do. If I remember correctly, there is no place in the metadata panel where one can view the original WB information (I don't have LR at my disposal at present).
    The same should be true for the flash info, but I am not 100% sure about that right now. Look for it in the metadata panel switched to "EXIF". If an information is not there, it is probably not available in LR elsewhere (except perhaps via a plugin).
    Note: The WB values (temp, tint) of "As Shot" do not necessarily equal those displayed by the camera of by the camera maker's software. Actual WB values heavily depend on the raw processing and camera profiles used, and because Adobe/ACR uses different ones compared to the camera maker, there may be substantial differences. I think there was a thread somewhere here in the forum about that...

  • Bug report: Wrong As Shot White Balance for Nikon D50 NEF in Camera Raw 7, Lightroom 4

    For Nikon D50 cameras Adobe Creative Suite 6 does not read "As Shot" white balance data whether it's specified or not. It defaults to "Automatic". We have the problem only for Nikon D50 and only in Photoshop CS6, Adobe Camera Raw 7.3 and Photoshop Lightroom 4. (Not in CS5. Not for Nikon D5100 or D7000 or Canon S95) .
    There is a more detailed posting at photoshop.com.
    Lightroom 4.2 / ACR 7.2: WB "as shot" does not read the WB of Nikon D50 NEF, defaults to "automatic"
    http://phtshp.us/10utPuk
    phtshp.us/10utPuk

    Moving the discussion to PS Forums

  • Lightroom & Nikon D800e White Balance

    I've set my white balance in the camera (D800e) to afixed temperature; 5500K.
    When I bring the .NEF file into Lightroom 4.1, the "As Shot" white balance is called out as 5300K, with a +6 Tint.
    I get this same reading with any of the six camera profiles listed in the LR Camera Callibration frame.
    If LR is reading the metadata in the .NEF file, the numbers ought to match.
    Why don't they?

    So on import you want all your photos so have a 5500K 0 WB in LR like you did with your old camera?  Then all you have to do is set LR to have that as it’s default WB, or create a Develop preset with WB 5500K0 and use that as your import preset.  The only reason it matters what your camera is set to is that you are using the LR factory default of As Shot so LR interprets the camera’s gray-point values into a WB.  The only thing that is affected by your camera’s setting is the WB of the embedded JPG preview that the camera shows as you review your photos, or that you see when you import photos before LR re-renders things. 
    If seeing this spectrum of colors on your camera’s display and on the Import grid is important, then so you need your camera’s custom WB to show up in LR as 5500K +0 then take a sequence of shots where you vary the WB slightly  in your camera maybe by 50K on each one, and keeping track of what you set it to for each one, and find the one that LR interprets most closely as 5500K +0.
    I used to do what I think you’re saying you do, have my camera set to the same custom WB for everything and have the tungsten shots look very orange and my twilight shots look very blue and other outdoor shots vary between orange and blue, and then adjust my WB in LR to how I wanted it.  Since I always was needing to adjust my WB in LR, I decided to get a little help from my camera, and now I have it set to AWB so I have the added benefit of the camera’s intelligence in guessing what looks good.  I still synchronize my various photos in a particular lighting scenario to the same WB after deciding what looks best, but sometimes I find the camera does a better job of guessing than I did and I sync to a custom-WB that is equivalent to what it picked for its AWB of one of the shots instead of always having to play with the WB to figure out what I want.  Having my camera set to AWB doesn’t preclude me from having the same WB for all my photos in LR and seeing which ones are warmer or cooler than others, but not having my camera set to AWB removes the camera’s intelligence as a suggested WB.

  • Sunrise/Sunset and White Balance

    I have a question about overriding Automatic White Balance when photographing sunrises and sunsets. A few days ago, I got my first DSLR, an EOS 5D Mk III. I know the ISO triangle after shooting film on my Canon A-1 that I bought 34 years ago, which still works). However, this white balance thing is a fourth dimension. Films are balanced for daylight and the ISO is also dictated. For photographing a sunrise or sunset, to me, it makes sense to set the white balance to 5200 Kelvin (daylight). I got one response from a camera club member who said his photos were all in the 5000 range. Others have said "Shoot in RAW and fix it in post processing". The second response of "Fix it later" just doesn't ring my bell. What about getting it right the first time? Should I set white balance to daylight or some other setting? I can always experiment with changing white balance; after all, I'm not wasting film. Below are a series of sunrises that I took using Kodak Portra 400, -2/3 stop, on my Canon A-1. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ralphhightower/sets/72157633079358301/ Thanks, Ralph
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    It might be helpful to just think of the digital camera's white balance capabilities as a built-in and very complete set of color conversion and color correction filters, such as we used to use with film. Now, for your convenience, all those filters are right there, inside the camera.... much easier to carry around and use!
    If shooting during Golden Hours, the camera's Automatic White Balance (AWB) can tend to overcorrect and remove some of the lovely golden nature of the light. One solution is as others have recommended, to shoot RAW and make your adjustments later. This is no different from making the adjustments in-camera, at the time of exposure, and can make for much greater control and precision. It's not really a "fix it later" thing... It is more a matter of doing fine-tuning and optimizing the image (more on this below). RAW simply retains all the data from the original capture and is a good thing to use, anyway. 
    All digital cameras essentially capture a TIFF image file with a lot of proprietary data attached and an embedded "preview/review" JPEG... that's what the RAW file is. If you make JPEGs in-camera, a lot of data is thrown away, following the directions laid out by the settings in the camera. If, instead, you save the entire RAW file, you can change those directions later in post-processing... or just make a JPEG from the image "as shot", using the exact same set of instructions as were set in the camera at the time of exposure. One of the beauties of RAW is that so long as you store the original image file, you can always go back and re-process it another way, if you wish. This is particularly helpful when new to digital and uncertain about your settings. Something you might want to do is shoot RAW+JPEG initially. That way you have both the full data stored, along with the potential to make changes if you wish, plus the JPEG produced according to your camera settings. The JPEG can serve as a post-processing learning tool, using it as a point of comparison with your own RAW file conversions.... and as feedback about your camera settings. (Don't trust the image display on the camera's LCD screen... it's not calibrated and is too subject to ambient light variations. The histogram display is generally more informative, but even that is subject to the camera's settings, since it's done from the embedded JPEG and not directly from the full RAW file.) 
    But, I agree, it's also good to "get it right the first time". Or at least come as close as possible.
    The most ideal way to do that would be to set a Custom White Balance for every shot. Use a standardized target, bathed in the same light as your subject/scene, and take a shot of it... then tell the camera to use that as reference. However, it's just not practical to do that.
    Nor is it a good idea to set one particular color temp and use it for everything (i know photogs who do that and have had to work with their images.... it makes for a lot of extra work!)
    Thus there are all the "presets" you can choose among, looking for one that's most appropriate for your particular situation... And there is AWB, which allows the camera to try to choose for you. Outdoors in daylight I've found Canon AWB to be pretty darned good. Shots in the shade can be a little overly cool. And indoor shots with tungsten or other artifical light are when a Custom WB is most likely to be needed.... especially with weird, uncalibrated lighting such as sodium vapor and mercury vapor lamps.
    To set an accurate Custom WB, get yourself a gray card or similar (I use Lastolite EZ Balance targets, which are sort of like a foldable/flexible gray card). This also can be helpful arriving at an accurately metered exposures. Something else I use in certain circumstances are Warm Cards... these have slight tints that "fool" the camera into slightly tinting the image.... a light blue/cyan target will cause the camera to render a slightly warm color balance. Warm Cards would be particularly helpful shooting during the Golden Hours, if wanting to retain some of the warmth of the light at those times of day.  It's more accurate doing this than simply manually setting a particular color temp, although that's possible too. 
    And, yes, you should spend some time getting to know how your camera handles color. Each model can be a bit different. You'd do well to shoot a bunch of test shots with AWB, Custom WB and, if you wish, the various presets... to see how they perform.
    Of course, you don't always have time to think about or make settings... sometimes to catch fleeting light you have to run to catch an image quickly, shoot RAW and "fix it later" in post-processing!
    If you haven't already done so, you might want to calibrate your computer monitor. As concerned as you are about rendering accurate color or manipulating it the way you want it, in case you are unaware of it... your computer monitor is lying to you. All computer monitors are different, none are really very accurate and virtually all are way too bright. If you make prints using an uncalibrated monitor, you will usually find them coming out too dark. This is because an overly bright monitor causes you to adjust the image too dark. If you don't already have them, you might want to get computer calibration software and hardware and use them regularly (about once every month or two, usually... monitors change over time and with use). 
    The way the calibration device works is by first running a test on your particular monitor, and then providing a profile that the computer will use when rendering images on the display. Some of the more sophisticated calibration suites can also be used to develop printing profiles (unique for each ink/paper/printer combination), projectors and other viewing devices. (I use a Datacolor Spyder, one of several different calibration devices/softwares available).
    Hope this helps!
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

  • Aperture incorrectly reading white balance data from RAW file?

    I'm having some problems with both Aperture 1.1.2 and 1.5 importing RAW files from a Nikon D70 and a Canon G6. In both cases, Aperture is not reading the "as shot" white balance correctly.
    With the G6, Aperture is always setting a fixed color temperature of 6016K, and a fixed tint of -15, regardless of the image in question. If I read the same image using Adobe Camera Raw, or Lightroom, then it I get the white balance value as set in the camera.
    With the D70, it's picking up a different white balance value from the one set in the camera, always one far warmer than it should be, and with a green tint. Again, the Adobe tools get the right value out of the RAW file. With both cameras I have experimented with setting the white balance manually on the camera, and also with the "auto white balance" setting, but it makes no difference to Aperture.
    Obviously I can change all of the values manually, but it's very time consuming, and in most cases the in-camera value is pretty close to what I need, so I'd much prefer Aperture to use it.
    In any case, I'm worried about the discrepancy between Aperture and Camera Raw on something so basic.
    Anybody got any ideas? I'm hoping I'm just doing something silly, as I have only been using Aperture for a couple of weeks, and maybe something is mis-configured.
    Thanks
    HG

    In any case, I'm worried about the discrepancy
    between Aperture and Camera Raw on something so
    basic.
    Sorry I can't help you directly with Aperture as I haven't bought it - yet. However, re-the above quote, I'd just mention that the interpretation of colour temperature values is not quite as simple as it might seem. Even more so when you bear in mind that RAW converters from 3rd parties like Adobe or Apple are not based on the RAW conversion engine produced by the camera manufacturer - in effect they have to guess/estimate what the temp/tint values in the RAW file actually mean...
    Some time back I made a series of tests using 3 Canon cameras, with ACR, Capture One & the Canon RAW converter. Each produced noticeably different results, and C1 & ACR showed quite different temp/tint values. (The Canon software only showed 'As Shot' - no values). The differences were consistent between shots from each camera (using WB values input or AWB) - but they weren't consistent from one camera to another. Which program produced the best result depended very much on the Camera/Subject/Personal taste...
    Hope someone can help with Aperture specific info, I'm sure there must be a way of making camera specific adjustments to the RAW conversions...

  • Bug Fix for White Balance Issue (When ?)

    Dear Apple:
    When can users expect a patch for the bug that "crept" into Aperture late in the development cycle that seriously effects the white balance tool?
    This bug is obviously a major concern and issue for most professional-level photographers; and, quite frankly, prevents Aperture from being used in a professional capacity with regard to RAW decoding.
    Cheers

    Excuse me, John:
    But, quite frankly I don't think you are in any position to tell the users of this form how they should feel. Most users, who happen to be high-end prosumers or professionals such as myself, have paid a great deal of money on a piece of software that was supposed to live up to certain, basic expectations. Unfortunately, that software did not. As such it cannot be used in a professional environment.
    Subsequently, an update was provided to address all the concerns that users expressed. Unfortunately, that update created a major issue with regard to the white balance of RAW images. Yet again, this expensive piece of software is nearly useless in a professional environment.
    Let me ask you this: "if you were a gardner and paid several hundred dollars for a lawn mower, only to discover that it cut your clients' grass unevenly, would you continue to use it? Would you continue to be patient after taking it into the repair shop only to have it still screw up your lawns? Would you not be on the phone with the repair shop constantly until it was fixed?"
    Unfortunately, Aperture is a good idea that has a flawed implementation and that NEEDS to be addressed! So, I will continue to ask Joe and Steve and the others at Apple when will this piece of software actually live up to the expectations set forth by the company that produced it!

  • LR4 White balance tool changes to magnifying glass

    I just upgrade to LR 4.  However  in the develop module, whenever I choose my white balance tool and then hover over the image it changes to the magnifying glass.  If I click, all it does is zoom in and out.  The circle where the WB tool lives, is blank like it usually is when the tool is selected. 
    I've checked for stuck keys and still have same result. 
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    hmm.. I posted on here. Left LR open and did some other stuff for a while.  Came back to color correct WB tool-less and vola all of a sudden it's working.  we'll see for how long

  • Colour cast using auto White Balance in ACR 7.4

    I am experiencing a yellowish colour cast when I set the White Balance to Auto in Adobe Camera Raw. This happens with pictures taken with the Nikon D7100 and also the Nikon D50.
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    White Balance set to "As Shot":
    White Balance set to "Auto":

    RASouthworth wrote:
    So I would conclude the ACR auto wb process is apparently not as reliable as the camera determination, and certainly inferior to direct measurement on a neutral object.
    Oh, Auto WB is reliable for what it was designed to do...take the image colors into consideration when determining the auto white balance. It's doing exactly what it's supposted to do...the fact that it's often not what you want shouldn't be a surprise. The way a camera determines WB is by using a WB sensor (either the sensor itself or an external sensor) which is much more accurate than measuring image colors after capture. I've seen Auto WB help in certain cases where there simply is not white neutral in which to measure but I've found manually adjusting WB the best solution in most cases.

  • Develop mode shows a blue background with a white box and white diagonals.

    When I open the Develop mode the photo I selected is not displayed. Instead is a blue background with a white box and white diagonals. Can anyone help? Everything else appears to work. If  I choose the Before and After view the photo shows in the  Before but the blue screen in  the after.

    You should find the forum for whichever product this concerns and post your question(s) there.
    Here is a link to a page that has links to all Adobe forums...
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  • Infotype 0041  - Date type field in display mode always

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    Hi Karthikeyan ,
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  • White balance settings always display 5000K 0 Tint

    Been searching on this, found a few things, but nothing helpful.
    In the past few weeks, it appears that Aperture is no longer interpreting my cameras white balance settings properly. The colors themselves are fine, however, the adjustment applet always shows 5000k with 0 tint. I'm not quite sure when this started, but it's quite frustrating. This appears to be happening on everything newly imported. (I can only verify JPG at the moment, as I'm seeing this on a Canon S95 and 60D, which both don't have RAW support yet in Aperture).
    Anyone ever see this happen, or no of a solution? I'm using Aperture 3, latest updates etc. on OS X 10.6.4. My older files all appear fine, it's just these recents, from these two cameras. Unfortunately, I've sold my other gear, and don't have an older cam around to test. Either way, other products, Adobe, seem to be reading things properly.
    Thanks for any input.

    So all these files are JPEGs?
    Note that white balance works very differently with JPEGs and RAW files. There really is no "white balance" information in a JPEG, and you can't adjust them the same way. That's one of the big advantages of RAW files. I suspect once Aperture supports the RAW files for those cameras, then you'll get proper white balance. Until then, with JPEGs you're kinda SOL. It's a bunch more work. But that's the nature of the medium.

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/\.(framew|lproj)|\):/d;/plist:|:.+(Mach|scrip)/s/:[^:]+//p ' '/^root$/p' ' !/\/Contents\/.+\/Contents|Applic|Autom|Frameworks/&&/Lib.+\/Info.plist$/ { n++;print;} END { if(n<1100) print "/System/";} ' '/^\/usr\/lib\/.+dylib$/p' ' /Temp|emac/{next};/(etc|Preferences|Launch[AD].+)\// { sub(".(/private)?","");n++;print;} END { split("'"${p[41]}"'",b);split("'"${p[42]}"'",c);for(i in b) print b[i]".plist\t"c[i];if(n<500) print "Launch";} ' ' /\/(Contents\/.+\/Contents|Frameworks)\/|\.wdgt\/.+\.([bw]|plu)/d;p;' 's/\/(Contents\/)?Info.plist$//;p' ' { gsub("^| |\n","\\|\\|kMDItem'${p[35]}'=");sub("^...."," ") };1 ' p '{print $3"\t"$1}' 's/\'$'\t''.+//p' 's/1/On/p' '/Prox.+: [^0]/p' '$2>'${p[43]}'{$2=$2-1;print}' ' BEGIN { i="'${p[26]}'";M1='${p[16]}';M2='${p[18]}';M3='${p[31]}';M4='${p[32]}';} !/^A/{next};/%/ { getline;if($5<M1) a="user "$2"%, system "$4"%";} /disk0/&&$4>M2 { b=$3" ops/s, "$4" blocks/s";} $2==i { if(c) { d=$3+$4+$5+$6;next;};if($4>M3||$6>M4) c=int($4/1024)" in, 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read' stat lsbom mdfind ' for i in ${p[24]};do ${c1[18]} ${c2[27]} $i;done;' defaults\ read scutil sudo\ dtrace sudo\ profiles sed\ -En awk /S*/*/P*/*/*/C*/*/airport networksetup mdutil sudo\ lsof test osascript\ -e sysctl\ -n pluginkit );c2=(com.apple.loginwindow\ LoginHook '" /L*/P*/loginw*' "'tell app \"System Events\" to get properties of login items'|tr , \\\n" 'L*/Ca*/com.ap*.Saf*/E*/* -d 1 -name In*t -exec '"${c1[14]}"' :CFBundleDisplayName" {} \;|sort|uniq' '~ $TMPDIR.. \( -flags +sappnd,schg,uappnd,uchg -o ! -user $UID -o ! -perm -600 \)' '.??* -path .Trash -prune -o -type d -name *.app -print -prune' :${p[35]}\" :Label\" '{/,}L*/{Con,Pref}* -type f ! -size 0 -name *.plist -exec plutil -s {} \;' "-f'%N: %l' Desktop L*/Keyc*" therm sysload boot-args status " -F '\$Time \$(RefProc): \$Message' -k Sender kernel -k Message Req 'bad |Beac|caug|corru|dead[^bl]|FAIL|fail|GPU |hfs: Ru|inval|jnl:|last value [1-9]|n Cause: -|NVDA\(|pagin|proc: t|Roamed|rror|ssert|Thrott|tim(ed? ?|ing )o|WARN' -k Message Rne 'Goog|ksadm|Roame|SMC:|suhel| VALI|ver-r|xpma' -o -o -k Sender fseventsd -k Message Req SL -o -k Sender Req launchd -k Message Req de: " '-du -n DEV -n EDEV 1 10' 'acrx -o comm,ruid,%cpu' '-t1 10 1' '-f -pfc /var/db/r*/com.apple.*.{BS,Bas,Es,J,OSXU,Rem,up}*.bom' '{/,}L*/Lo*/Diag* -type f -regex .\*[cght] ! -name .?\* ! -name \*ag \( -exec grep -lq "^Thread c" {} \; -exec printf \* \; -o -true \) -execdir stat -f:%Sc:%N -t%F {} \;|sort -t: -k2 |tail -n'${p[38]} '/S*/*/Ca*/*xpc* >&- ||echo No' '-L /{S*/,}L*/StartupItems -type f -exec file {} +' '-L /S*/L*/{C*/Sec*A,Ex}* {/,}L*/{A*d,Ca*/*/Ex,Co{mpon,reM},Ex,In{p,ter},iTu*/*P,Keyb,Mail/B,Pr*P,Qu*T,Scripti,Sec,Servi,Spo,Widg}* -path \\*s/Resources -prune -o -type f -name Info.plist' '/usr/lib -type f -name *.dylib' `awk "${s[31]}"<<<${p[23]}` "/e*/{auto,{cron,fs}tab,hosts,{[lp],sy}*.conf,mach_i*/*,pam.d/*,ssh{,d}_config,*.local} {,/usr/local}/etc/periodic/*/* /L*/P*{,/*}/com.a*.{Bo,sec*.ap}*t {/S*/,/,}L*/Lau*/*t .launchd.conf" list getenv /Library/Preferences/com.apple.alf\ globalstate --proxy '-n get default' -I --dns -getdnsservers\ "${p[N5]}" -getinfo\ "${p[N5]}" -P -m\ / '' -n1 '-R -l1 -n1 -o prt -stats command,uid,prt' '--regexp --only-files --files com.apple.pkg.*|sort|uniq' -kl -l -s\ / '-R -l1 -n1 -o mem -stats command,uid,mem' '+c0 -i4TCP:0-1023' com.apple.dashboard\ layer-gadgets '-d /L*/Mana*/$USER&&echo On' '-app Safari WebKitDNSPrefetchingEnabled' "+c0 -l|awk '{print(\$1,\$3)}'|sort|uniq -c|sort -n|tail -1|awk '{print(\$2,\$3,\$1)}'" -m 'L*/{Con*/*/Data/L*/,}Pref* -type f -size 0c -name *.plist.???????|wc -l' kern.memorystatus_vm_pressure_level );N1=${#c2[@]};for j in {0..9};do c2[N1+j]=SP${p[j]}DataType;done;N2=${#c2[@]};for j in 0 1;do c2[N2+j]="-n ' syscall::'${p[33+j]}':return { @out[execname,uid]=sum(arg0) } tick-10sec { trunc(@out,1);exit(0);} '";done;l=(Restricted\ files Hidden\ apps 'Elapsed time (s)' POST Battery Safari\ extensions Bad\ plists 'High file counts' User Heat System\ load boot\ args FileVault Diagnostic\ reports Log 'Free space (MiB)' 'Swap (MiB)' Activity 'CPU per process' Login\ hook 'I/O per process' Mach\ ports kexts Daemons Agents XPC\ cache Startup\ items Admin\ access Root\ access Bundles dylibs Apps Font\ issues Inserted\ dylibs Firewall Proxies DNS TCP/IP Wi-Fi Profiles Root\ crontab User\ crontab 'Global login items' 'User login items' Spotlight Memory Listeners Widgets Parental\ Controls Prefetching SATA Descriptors App\ extensions Lockfiles Memory\ pressure );N3=${#l[@]};for i in 0 1 2;do l[N3+i]=${p[5+i]};done;N4=${#l[@]};for j in 0 1;do l[N4+j]="Current ${p[29+j]}stream data";done;A0() { id -G|grep -qw 80;v[1]=$?;((v[1]==0))&&sudo true;v[2]=$?;v[3]=`date +%s`;clear >&-;date '+Start time: %T %D%n';};for i in 0 1;do eval ' A'$((1+i))'() { v=` eval "${c1[$1]} ${c2[$2]}"|'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};A'$((3+i))'() { v=` while read i;do [[ "$i" ]]&&eval "${c1[$1]} ${c2[$2]}" \"$i\"|'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}";done<<<"${v[$4]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};A'$((5+i))'() { v=` while read i;do '${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$1]}" "$i";done<<<"${v[$2]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};';done;A7(){ v=$((`date +%s`-v[3]));};B2(){ v[$1]="$v";};for i in 0 1;do eval ' B'$i'() { v=;((v['$((i+1))']==0))||{ v=No;false;};};B'$((3+i))'() { v[$2]=`'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}"<<<"${v[$1]}"`;} ';done;B5(){ v[$1]="${v[$1]}"$'\n'"${v[$2]}";};B6() { v=` paste -d: <(printf "${v[$1]}") <(printf "${v[$2]}")|awk -F: ' {printf("'"${f[$3]}"'",$1,$2)} ' `;};B7(){ v=`grep -Fv "${v[$1]}"<<<"$v"`;};C0() { [[ "$v" ]]&&sed -E "$s"<<<"$v";};C1() { [[ "$v" ]]&&printf "${f[$1]}" "${l[$2]}" "$v"|sed -E "$s";};C2() { v=`echo $v`;[[ "$v" != 0 ]]&&C1 0 $1;};C3() { v=`sed -E "${s[63]}"<<<"$v"`&&C1 1 $1;};for i in 1 2;do for j in 0 2 3;do eval D$i$j'(){ A'$i' $1 $2 $3; C'$j' $4;};';done;done;{ A0;D20 0 $((N1+1)) 2;D10 0 $N1 1;B0;C2 27;B0&&! B1&&C2 28;D12 15 37 25 8;A1 0 $((N1+2)) 3;C0;D13 0 $((N1+3)) 4 3;D23 0 $((N1+4)) 5 4;D13 0 $((N1+9)) 59 50;for i in 0 1 2;do D13 0 $((N1+5+i)) 6 $((N3+i));done;D13 1 10 7 9;D13 1 11 8 10;D22 2 12 9 11;D12 3 13 10 12;D23 4 19 44 13;D23 5 14 12 14;D22 6 36 13 15;D22 38 52 66 54;D22 7 37 14 16;D23 8 15 38 17;D22 9 16 16 18;B1&&{ D22 35 49 61 51;D22 11 17 17 20;for i in 0 1;do D22 28 $((N2+i)) 45 $((N4+i));done;};D22 12 44 54 45;D22 12 39 15 21;A1 13 40 18;B2 4;B3 4 0 19;A3 14 6 32 0;B4 0 5 11;A1 17 41 20;B7 5;C3 22;B4 4 6 21;A3 14 7 32 6;B4 0 7 11;B3 4 0 22;A3 14 6 32 0;B4 0 8 11;B5 7 8;B1&&{ A2 19 26 23;B7 7;C3 23;};A2 18 26 23;B7 7;C3 24;D13 4 21 24 26;B4 4 12 26;B3 4 13 27;A1 4 22 29;B7 12;B2 14;A4 14 6 52 14;B2 15;B6 14 15 4;B3 0 0 30;C3 29;A1 4 23 27;B7 13;C3 30;B3 4 0 65;A3 14 6 32 0;B4 0 16 11;A1 39 50 64;B7 16;C3 52;D13 24 24 32 31;D13 25 37 32 33;A2 23 18 28;B2 16;A2 16 25 33;B7 16;B3 0 0 34;B2 21;A6 47 21&&C0;B1&&{ D13 21 0 32 19;D13 10 42 32 40;D22 29 35 46 39;};D23 14 1 62 42;D12 34 43 53 44;D12 22 20 32 25;D22 0 $((N1+8)) 51 32;D13 4 8 41 6;D12 26 28 35 34;D13 27 29 36 35;A2 27 32 39&&{ B2 19;A2 33 33 40;B2 20;B6 19 20 3;};C2 36;D23 33 34 42 37;B1&&D23 35 45 55 46;D23 32 31 43 38;D12 36 47 32 48;D13 20 42 32 41;D13 37 2 48 43;D13 4 5 32 1;D13 4 3 60 5;D12 26 48 49 49;B3 4 22 57;A1 26 46 56;B7 22;B3 0 0 58;C3 47;D22 4 4 50 0;D12 4 51 32 53;D23 22 9 37 7;A7;C2 2;} 2>/dev/null|pbcopy;exit 2>&-
    Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
    8. Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
    ☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
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    Click anywhere in the Terminal window and paste by pressing command-V. The text you pasted should vanish immediately. If it doesn't, press the return key.
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    exec bash
    and press return. Then paste the script again.
    10. If you're logged in as an administrator, you'll be prompted for your login password. Nothing will be displayed when you type it. You will not see the usual dots in place of typed characters. Make sure caps lock is off. Type carefully and then press return. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you make three failed attempts to enter the password, the test will run anyway, but it will produce less information. In most cases, the difference is not important. If you don't know the password, or if you prefer not to enter it, press the key combination control-C or just press return  three times at the password prompt. Again, the script will still run.
    If you're not logged in as an administrator, you won't be prompted for a password. The test will still run. It just won't do anything that requires administrator privileges.
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    14. This is a public forum, and others may give you advice based on the results of the test. They speak only for themselves, and I don't necessarily agree with them.
    Copyright © 2014 by Linc Davis. As the sole author of this work, I reserve all rights to it except as provided in the Use Agreement for the Apple Support Communities website ("ASC"). Readers of ASC may copy it for their own personal use. Neither the whole nor any part may be redistributed.

  • Custom white balance from Canon 5D Mark 3 erased from RAW files when developed in Lightroom 4.2?

    Hi Everybody!
    Got a bit of a problem...I set custom white balance for a lot of my photos (I'm a nightclub photographer) as sometimes the colours are so saturated the image becomes unusable. Unfortunately in Lightroom 4 the photos import with the correct WB I have set but when I click on them to develop the settings are changed and the image looks completely awful. I try and adjust the image back to the way I have taken it but it never looks the same....why is Lighroom not recognising the WB settings I set within my 5D?
    Any pointers?
    Cheers!
    Sarah

    All Raw images can be expected to change appearance significantly after the initial display of the in-camera embedded JPG preview, has been replaced with a true LR-generated conversion preview.
    This is because all in-camera image settings and processing options (except WB) are disregarded by Lightroom. Lightroom just works to its own processing default, and this is in your control to get as you want it.
    Even the in-camera WB, is only used provided LR is set to "as-shot" WB at the top of the Basic panel. If LR's default gets changed to a fixed WB of some kind, then that is what every image will show initially thereafter.
    Even with the right WB transferred and used, first LR renditions can still look very different than the camera rendition; two people picking up the same violin might make very different noises with it. One of the biggest effects for that, is when proprietary in-camera "dynamic range boost" (or however else named) functions have been used. These work by deliberate underexposure of the basic capture, and Adobe software tends not to then apply the right corrective for that.
    Even without these special functions in play, it is still usual for Adobe factory default processing - combined with camera programmed metering - to produce images which appear a little on the dark side, but which nonetheless have good scope for brightening without losing highlight detail. An image that looks generally bright enough in this context, will usually turn out to have blown highlights. If the camera has any kind of a low-noise sensor, the shadows will tolerate brightening even better than the highlights will.
    And if your customised LR default has applied some brightening and that turns out to be too much in a given case, it can simply be turned back down for that image with no harm done. Or you might prefer to under-correct with your default; up to you.

  • Lightroom 4: Massive BUG with White Balance / Quick Develop. Totally Unreliable!

    I just recently updated from LR3 and just now found a massive bug concerning the white balance adjustments in the quick develop module.
    After a studio shooting and especially after weddings I use the "make warmer" adjustment in the quick develop panel to give all (a few thousand NEFs) a nicer look all at once.
    The great thing about this is - like all quick developments - that it increases the color temperature relative to each image's starting white balance.
    Yesterday I wanted to edit my first wedding in LR4 and like in LR3 applied one click "make warmer" to all images at once (previously WB was "as shot").
    While I browsed through the images to rate them I noticed some of them were very "pinkish".
    After closer inspection it came out that a lot of images (50%-60%) had the following custom WB set: 5316, Tint: +10.
    It is always this exact combination no matter what the "as shot" WB was.
    That setting of course applies way too much magenta to a lot of images.
    After resetting the WB of single images to "as shot" and selecting "make warmer" once again the images look fine and get appropriate WB values.
    But every time I select more than one image to apply "make warmer" a lot of them get the strange value of 5316 and +10.
    Sometimes it's even just the first few images of the selection that get correct values and all the following ones get the off value. It appears to be totally random.
    I tried completely resetting all images prior to "make warmer", setting them to different camera profiles first and even switched them to Process 2010 again. But absolutely no luck!  :-(
    The "make warmer" tool gives me totally unusable results.
    I find it strange, that I couldn't find anything about that on the net.
    PLEASE fix this ASAP.
    To apply WB to thousands of images individually is a real pain.
    I would be glad to support you fixing the issue.
    My setup:
    Nikon D700
    Nikon D300s
    (Both cameras affected, I only shoot NEF)
    Win7 x64
    LR4.1 as well as LR4.2 RC

    @ssprengel
    I get your point but that is exactly my problem.
    Not only is there no pattern but also once I reset a file that got 5316+10 to "as shot" and select "make warmer" for it again it does get the correct value! As long as I select it as a single file without others.
    So just to simplify my findings and explain what I have been doing all night:
    - SELECT 5 files in Library View (all freshly imported, no settings altered, WB "as shot")
    File 1: 5700 / -8
    File 2: 5500 / -8
    File 3: 5550 / -8
    File 4: 5450 / -6
    File 5: 5500 / -7
    - CLICK "make warmer" once
    Result:
    File 1: 6089 / -8
    File 2: 5867 / -8
    File 3: 5316 / +10
    File 4: 5316 / +10
    File 5: 5316 / +10
    1 and 2 are okay!
    - SELECT 3-5
    - RESET THEM
    Result:
    File 3: 5550 / -8
    File 4: 5450 / -6
    File 5: 5500 / -7
    - CLICK "make warmer" again
    Result:
    File 3: 5316 / +10
    File 4: 5812 / -6
    File 5: 5867 / -7
    File 4 and 5 are okay!
    - SELECT File 3 again
    - RESET IT
    - CLICK "make warmer"
    Result:
    File 3: 5923 / -8
    now File 3 is okay, too.
    It is completely random!
    But that is no way to work, of course.
    I have two weddings from last week and am going nuts already.

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