Increased harshness in ACR 4.2

I'm working in PS CS3 and using ACR 4.2 on a Mac. I noticed that the files got a somewhat harsh graininess that I could possibly describe as "rice grains" and that details seemed smeared in an artificial way that I don't recall from previous versions of ACR. It's particularily unpleasant in faces and skin tones.
So I opened the same .CR2 image from my Canon Eos 20D in CS (ACR 2.4), CS2 (ACR 3.7) and CS3 (ACR 4.2) with basicaly the same settings, no sharpening and a minimum of noise reduction.
The result is that this graininess seems to increase and get harsher for every new version of ACR.
The only side-effect that I can consider as positive is that ACR 4.2 automaticaly smears/removes "hot pixels" from exposures of 30 seconds or more.
Could I please get any comments on the suposed benefits of this?
/*Peter Rosén

Mathias,
I do definitively prefer lesser graininess and to work up luminosity detail in PS, as it used to be. I want to be able to start with an image that looks and feels as natural and with as little artifacts as possible. Artifacts will always be added upon editing the image (sharpening, adding saturation etc) but then at least I can control it. It's very dificult to go the other way and remove artifacts while keeping a natural photographic look.
Canons mid-range SLR cameras already feature an anti-alias filter that is too strong to my liking so there is no room for increased smearing in the raw converter. I think that Canons top line SLRs as well as Nikon and possibly other brands have a less extreme approach to in-camera anti-aliasing and noise reduction.
I don't know anything about DPP as I have never tried it. I used to be quite satisfied with ACR before this last upgrade. So I can only hope that the ACR team will go back to a more conservative approach in the future or find myself another raw converter that suits my needs better.
/*Peter

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    4) However the very best version, when all aspects of image quality are being considered, is the "ACR v4.1 - ISO 1600 as 100" version! The ever-so-slight reduction in overall noise does not appear to affect micro-detail to any significant extent, yet there is a significant reduction in "white-specks" in darker areas (especially after post-sharpening) and certain areas of color in the images are identified and rendered better - the last item being really hard to describe. Look at the dark engraved lines on the head of the statue: ACR v4.0 fills them in as slightly "reddish" whereas in ACR v4.1 they are black and look more "normal" to me. On the outside shot, looking and the red brick colour of the wall in the distance (the one with all the patios on the right), ACR v4.1 seems to better identify where the colour should be, whereas ACR v4.0 slightly desaturates portions of that wall between floors.
    5) Further to point 4 is that indeed there is obviously some very complex processing going on, and if one could reduce the level of NR on an ISO 1600 file, down to the level which ACR uses when fooled into thinking it is an ISO 100 file, I would certainly be quite happy with the results. I imagine many others would be too...
    6) Finally, this effect will certainly not be visible in smaller prints however the more you push a file (for example a 20x30 print from a 30D will have a source resolution of about 117dpi) or if you end up cropping an image, thereby increasing the overall magnification and thus also the defects, well then those processing artifacts can become visible upon close and critical inspection - large prints of landscapes for example.
    My humble request:
    In ACR v4.2 or LR v1.2, please have the luminance NR slider, when set to zero, have the same degree of effect as when an ISO 1600 file is processed as though it were ISO 100. Alternatively, put in a "Preserve all texture detail" checkbox in the detail section that does the same thing. That way we'll have the best of both worlds: for some types of images, one can use this new-found intelligent NR but for those where the most natural look and finest detail is of utmost importance, we can turn it off - or at least reduce it to more-or-less the same level as previous versions of ACR.
    In general, the new NR processing does seem quite "intelligent" and is a big step up from the previous version's crude luminance slider. I certainly do not want to change back to the old system as there are many real and visible benefits to the processing in the new ACR! In addition, the new sharpening controls are also a big step up from previous version, offering much more fine control and less artifacting, when used judiciously.
    However, please leave the majority of sharpening and noise-reduction decisions to the individual user. That way, one can selectively apply these effects in layers or by using the history brush. I would be equally unhappy if suddenly there was an aggressive new baseline sharpening applied to all raw conversions, when the sharpening controls were at zero!
    I realize now that maybe there never was a true "zero" in NR and sharpening, but with previous versions of ACR, this processing appeared to be very subtle and lent itself very well to post-NR and post-sharpening. This is why, even after trying out virtually every other raw converter made, I always came back to Adobe Camera Raw, time and time again.
    Please don't give up on progress and on new and innovative ways to improve ACR, but also please don't take away those qualities that have made a legion of photographers use Adobe Camera Raw as their raw converter of choice!
    Best Regards,
    Mike Mander
    http://www.sublimephoto.com

  • ACR sharpening range vs. PS4 sharpening range

    I'd like to do my capture sharpening in ACR in Bridge then do output in PS4, but the Bridge Amount range of 1-150, while PS has an Amount range of    1-500; and an even more dramatic difference in "pixel" settings (ACR has .5 - 3.0 while PS has 1-64). I've read that the ACR sharpening is basically USM (unsharp mask), so is there  any way to correlate these numbers? For instance, if I apply 150 in ACR does that equal 150% in PS or is the scale different so that ACR's 150 = PS 500% for an incremental increase of 3.3,
    Brian

    There are thousand ways of image sharpening and for ideal result there is no
    such thing as 'one way fits all'
    I'm no expert but don't think you can compare the two ways, better use them
    both together, some even use three ways of sharpening and those ways are
    again different for various purposes.
    Try also pixelgenius.com
    And here are two from the 2.6 million results after Google search about
    Image sharpening :
    http://www.pixelgenius.com/tips/schewe-sharpening.pdf
    http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=608637&seqNum=4
    I've read that the ACR sharpening is basically USM (unsharp mask), so is
    there  any way to correlate these numbers?

  • Capture SHARPENING in ACR?????????????

    Capture Sharpening in ACR???
    OK, after going back and forth with Jeff Shewe a few times here on the forums (and doing some tests and a variety of additional study) I am becoming converted to believing that some "Capture Sharpening" in ACR (before interpolating a file substantially in PS) when done RIGHT can actually improve the
    ultimate quality potential of a large, high res print. Believe me, this is new thinking to me. I would like this thread to be anything and everything, any experienced folks would like to throw into the mix regarding ACR "Capture Sharpening."
    Questions, observations, links to more information...
    This is because I want to absolutely master it and the knowledge of it. I'll start out below with some questions and concerns. Thank you anyone who contributes in any way.
    Mark

    Jeff, I have questions for you, if you don't mind...?
    OK, I spent the last two days re-reading Bruce Fraser's wonderful book "Real World Image Sharpening" two
    more times (I am certified to teach it now!) in attempt to make sure I have every word of the book understood and mastered in my head and in practice (with a twist of my own here and there).
    But after reading it, a general question seems to nag me. Since sharpening does not really add any true
    detail to a print, but instead, increases the
    perception or illusion of detail by artificially increasing contrast in the form of halos specifically at
    edges...
    And because your general recommendation to sharpen at 100% view, just
    until the image looks "good" without doing any damage to the image, or over-sharpening...
    (BTW, for some peoples info, I make large to very large, high end, high res, continuous tone, landscape gallery prints)...
    I am having a hard time understanding the
    threshold of "damage" to do (or not to do) to an image file in ACR, by essentially increasing contrast halos, which in of themselves, it seems, are a sort of "damage"
    if you will?
    Maybe there is a book(s) or article(s) or something out there that can help me figure out how to take "Capture Sharpening" right up to its limitation without going over??? I guess I'm needing more
    detailed explanation about how to figure out this threshold?
    Another question...?
    Can or does ACR sharpening (or is there a way in ACR sharpening) constrain the sharpening to specific tonal ranges (like when we use USM on a layer with the "blend if" sliders set to protect the top highlight and bottom shadow tones)?This allows the image to handle more sharpening with less damage.
    The reason I ask, is because my main concern with "Capture Sharpening" is that I might take the haloing to a certain level, which may end up
    limiting the amount of additional sharpening I can do effectively (without damaging the image) in PS after up-sizing, because the halos have reached towards, or close to black and white... (hopefully I can find a better way to re-word that last sentence)...
    Sorry if I am asking too many questions... But that is one reason for forums, right, to mull over and learn about issues? I admit, I am an obsessive quality freak with my prints (anyone hear of Christopher Berkett? - I consider myself, sort of, in the same vein as him in terms of the technical quality of prints he strives to make) and I am always on a constant search for as close to perfection as possible, even if it pains me (yet, it is a pleasure!). I know its a sickness, but an enjoyable one!

  • Slow sliders in CS3 ACR

    I've been a long time user of ACR in CS2. I've just recently upgraded to CS3 and, while I appreciate the new functionality in the newest version of ACR, I find that moving the sliders in the new ACR is massively slower than the previous version. It is not uncommon for a slider to take 5-10 seconds before it will even respond to a mouse click or drag. This is true even with the sliders that were present in previous versions of ACR so it can't only be because some of the new functionality is more compute-intensive.
    This sluggishness really detracts from my RAW processing productivity. Is this expected behavior? Is there anything that can be done in my configuration to restore the performance I had in CS2?
    For reference, I process 12MP RAW images from a Nikon D2Xs. I have a two year old computer - single core, Pentium 4, 3GHz, 3GB RAW. I did not have any of these performance problems with CS2/ACR.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    sjprg,
    What you say has some merit, but falls short of what is really needed to maximize a PC to run at the best speed you can get out of it. And, redoing your whole machine every six months is certainly effective--but doing it the hard way. Drive image backups will save a lot of work there.
    Here are my suggestions:
    My advice is to keep your boot drive (partition)small (20 gigs) and only install programs there that give you no choice of where to put them. And have another partition for a second boot drive (dual boot system)on a second hd, where you also have another small partition (8-10 gigs) for page file and virtual memory only, and use the remaining space for partitions to install programs to, and others for data, such as the LR database, including a large one for your image folders.
    Such an arrangement will offer both increased program speed (LR and ACR can use all that you can give it) and better system recoverability. Having a dual boot system allows you to be able to access one side from the other if something goes wrong, or to use one side to first test out new programs like LR or CS3, or one side that is for editing only--no internet access, etc. I personally use a triple boot system, but that is probably not necessary in most cases.
    Having your virtual memory and pagefile assigned to its own partition on a second hd will give faster access to those than having it on the same hd as you boot from, and the same reasoning applies to having your programs also on a different partition.
    Add to this, regular partition image backups with a program like Acronis True Image--everytime you install or uninstall a program, etc,-- will make you virtually invulnerable to the most common machine killing incidents--accidental or intentional. You should also have a disk image of your basic OS install made before you add programs, so that if you do have some other disaster, you can start from scratch. That will save a lot of rebuild time.
    I edit professionally, and I simply cannot afford down time. But when you get right down to the nitty gritty--no one wants a disfunctional computer to have to rebuild or slow, sluggish programs that struggle even more when installed on a non optimized computer.
    Having said all this, I still suspect that the OP has a more basic problem--conflict or poor install, etc--with CS3, if the sliders are as slow as he says.

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