Internet is pretty much useless!!
Here is an example of the problems I'm having. Twice called Verizon in the past and they kept trying to tell me that 2 computers on at the same time was causing the slowing of the connection.........REALLY??
Result History
Mbps
Mbps
Ping
Date + Time
Service Provider
0.91
0.71
102
12/7/2014 22:05
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.70
0.67
95
12/7/2014 20:57
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.67
0.72
89
12/7/2014 20:32
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.71
0.72
86
12/7/2014 19:53
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.90
0.60
57
12/7/2014 19:48
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
1.22
0.71
69
12/7/2014 19:38
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.90
0.69
77
12/7/2014 19:31
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.60
0.72
84
12/7/2014 19:30
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
1.07
0.72
71
12/7/2014 19:28
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.77
0.73
109
12/7/2014 19:23
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
0.68
0.72
96
12/7/2014 19:21
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.23.188
1.30
0.67
80
11/23/2014 22:55
Verizon Internet Services
IPv4: 108.44.18.25
To OP
Step one: Visit http://www.giganews.com/line_info.html and post up the Traceroute the page shows, if you wish. Be aware that your non-bogan public IP Address will show up. It might shown up as the final hop (bottom-most line of the trace) might contain a hop with your IP address in it. Either remove that line or show only the first two octets. What I'm looking for is a line that mentions "ERX" in it's name towards the end. If for some reason the trace does not complete (two lines full of Stars), keep the trace route intact.
For example this what I saw when I was using Verizon
news.giganews.com
traceroute to 71.242.*.* (71.242.*.*), 30 hops max, 60 byte packets
1 gw1-g-vlan201.dca.giganews.com (216.196.98.4) 13 ms 13 ms 13 ms
2 ash-bb1-link.telia.net (213.248.70.241) 39 ms 7 ms 7 ms
3 TenGigE0-2-0-0.GW1.IAD8.ALTER.NET (63.125.125.41) 4 ms 4 ms GigabitEthernet2-0-0.GW8.IAD8.ALTER.NET (63.65.76.189) 4 ms
4 so-7-1-0-0.PHIL-CORE-RTR1.verizon-gni.net (130.81.20.137) 6 ms 6 ms 6 ms
5 P3-0-0.PHIL-DSL-RTR11.verizon-gni.net (130.81.13.170) 6 ms 6 ms 6 ms
6 static-71-242-*-*.phlapa.east.verizon.net (71.242.*.*) 32 ms 32 ms 33 ms
Step two: Can you provide the Transceiver Statistics from your modem?
#3 If you don't know how to get that info:
a) What is the brand and model of your modem?
b) If you have a RJ-45 WAN port router connected to it: What is the brand and model of the RJ-45 WAN port router?
#4 If you have a RJ-45 WAN port router connected to the modem, even if you know how to get the Transceiver Statistics from the modem: What is the brand and model of the RJ-45 WAN port router?
If you are the original poster (OP) and your issue is solved, please remember to click the "Solution?" button so that others can more easily find it. If anyone has been helpful to you, please show your appreciation by clicking the "Kudos" button.
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Alarm Clock/Timer pretty much useless.
Before the 2.2 update I had the normal low volume issue. After the update the notification and ringer volumes are fine. Last night i was playing around with the DX and set the alarm clock. When it went off if it wasn't for the vibrate and rattling on the table I never would have known. I have the alarm volume up all the way. I hope there is a solution, not that I'm going to depend on the DX as an alarm clock, but it's the only issue I have with the phone to this point.
In general, I have found that relying on ANY phone alarm to wake up by can be pretty risky. I downloaded a tone called "Danger"from one of the big free ringtone sites (also part of the iPhone tone collection) , ran it through Audacity to normalize (and hopefully maximize) its volume, it has never failed to wake me up.
Having said this, I had to send a memo around to the techs and staff here that said I will NO LONGER accept "i didn't hear my phone alarm go off" as a valid reason for being late. Yes, it got that bad.
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Is Time Machine pretty much useless?
My 500 GB filled up in no time, so I bought a 2 Terribyte unit. Now it is already almost full. Shouldn't the Time Machine software only be backing up changed files and new ones? It seems to be backing up my entire hard disk each time. It has about 200 GB on it.
It depends on what you do.. for instance if you have a virtual machine running windows.. everytime you boot into that partition and make changes, TM will backup the entire file.. it cannot see changes inside the file.. as you can imagine this causes very large backups that quickly fill the drive.
Setup the widget.. see A1
http://pondini.org/TM/Troubleshooting.html
To determine what TM is actually backing up and why the backups are so big.
The way TM works is to fill the target disk .. this is expected.. once it is full it will thin the old backups..
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last night I was downloading something for church (I am new to Mac notebooks it's the first one I've ever owned and I've owned it since March 2014). I have never had a problem ever with this computer that's one reason I love it. So after I was downloading this thing it sent me somewhere and to download my file so I had download my file well I don't think it downloaded the file I wanted because I never saw that file ever again I've tried everything to figure out what's going on because now my Internet is pretty much crashed it says that there is no Internet connection I have pop-ups that want to stop me using my Internet and says it's unavailable then last night when I was on a site I have all these things at the top and at the bottom that show me other prices for things and I can't figure out how to get those off I go to their website for removal and there is no removal for Mac. Google is my search engine it will not let me put in Google when I go to type for google it throws me on Yahoo no matter what Yahoo has pretty much taken over my Internet and I don't know what to do it it's a mess. Can someone please help me I am definitely not Mav Savy.
Thanks a bunchHelpful Links Regarding Malware Problems
If you are having an immediate problem with ads popping up see The Safe Mac » Adware Removal Guide, AdwareMedic, or Remove unwanted adware that displays pop-up ads and graphics on your Mac - Apple Support.
Open Safari, select Preferences from the Safari menu. Click on Extensions icon in the toolbar. Disable all Extensions. If this stops your problem, then re-enable them one by one until the problem returns. Now remove that extension as it is causing the problem.
The following comes from user stevejobsfan0123. I have made minor changes to adapt to this presentation.
Fix Some Browser Pop-ups That Take Over Safari.
Common pop-ups include a message saying the government has seized your computer and you must pay to have it released (often called "Moneypak"), or a phony message saying that your computer has been infected, and you need to call a tech support number (sometimes claiming to be Apple) to get it resolved. First, understand that these pop-ups are not caused by a virus and your computer has not been affected. This "hijack" is limited to your web browser. Also understand that these messages are scams, so do not pay any money, call the listed number, or provide any personal information. This article will outline the solution to dismiss the pop-up.
Quit Safari
Usually, these pop-ups will not go away by either clicking "OK" or "Cancel." Furthermore, several menus in the menu bar may become disabled and show in gray, including the option to quit Safari. You will likely have to force quit Safari. To do this, press Command + option + esc, select Safari, and press Force Quit.
Relaunch Safari
If you relaunch Safari, the page will reopen. To prevent this from happening, hold down the 'Shift' key while opening Safari. This will prevent windows from the last time Safari was running from reopening.
This will not work in all cases. The shift key must be held at the right time, and in some cases, even if done correctly, the window reappears. In these circumstances, after force quitting Safari, turn off Wi-Fi or disconnect Ethernet, depending on how you connect to the Internet. Then relaunch Safari normally. It will try to reload the malicious webpage, but without a connection, it won't be able to. Navigate away from that page by entering a different URL, i.e. www.apple.com, and trying to load it. Now you can reconnect to the Internet, and the page you entered will appear rather than the malicious one.
An excellent link to read is Tom Reed's Mac Malware Guide.
Also, visit The XLab FAQs and read Detecting and avoiding malware and spyware.
See these Apple articles:
Mac OS X Snow Leopard and malware detection
OS X Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
OS X Mountain Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
OS X Mavericks- Protect your Mac from malware
About file quarantine in OS X
If you require anti-virus protection Thomas Reed recommends using ClamXAV. (Thank you to Thomas Reed for this recommendation.)
From user Joe Bailey comes this equally useful advice:
The facts are:
1. There is no anti-malware software that can detect 100% of the malware out there.
2. There is no anti-malware that can detect everything targeting the Mac.
3. The very best way to prevent the most attacks is for you as the user to be aware that
the most successful malware attacks rely on very sophisticated social engineering
techniques preying on human avarice, ****, and fear.
4. Internet popups saying the FBI, NSA, Microsoft, your ISP has detected malware on
your computer is intended to entice you to install their malware thinking it is a
protection against malware.
5. Some of the anti-malware products on the market are worse than the malware
from which they purport to protect you.
6. Be cautious where you go on the internet.
7. Only download anything from sites you know are safe.
8. Avoid links you receive in email, always be suspicious even if you get something
you think is from a friend, but you were not expecting.
9. If there is any question in your mind, then assume it is malware. -
How do i deinstall ios7 on my ipad? The new op system won't let me run Youtube, won't give me accesss to one of my gmail accounts, flickers when i do searches, and pretty much made my favorite device pretty much useless. Please don't tell me that apple is deliberately trying to get me to upgrade my old device just to generate revenue. That's why i switched from Microsoft products four years ago. Is it time to go Andriod?
Apple does not support ios downgrades. The same question was asked hundereds of times when ios 6 and every other new version came out.
Try this
Reboot device by pressing both the home button and sleep/wake (power) buttons at the same time for 10-15 seconds until the apple logo appears on the screen, then let go.
If that doesn't work then reset the device by going to settings/general/reset/reset all settings (or for network connection issues 'reset network settings').
(no media or data will be deleted from the device, this will only take a minute).
If that doesn't work then backup and then restore the device as new first (to isolate cause of the issue). Then from backup if necessary.
Make sure iTunes is updated to the latest version
How to back up and restore (iCloud and iTunes)
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1766 -
Internet connecting at much lower speed lately
I have HSI Enhanced and have had it for 10 months at this location and for a number of years at my previous location. Last October I was connecting at 3360 / 832 kbps. After some months it went down to around 2800 / 832 kpbs. I wasn't crazy about speeds getting lower as time went on rather than the connection being improved, but it was pretty much free of disconnects and reliable so I was happy with it.
In the past month or so I had noise on my voice line which Verizon fixed, but my connection is now 1792 / 448 Kbps all the time, that is a drop I will not accept if this is the way it is going to be from now on. Also there is a lot of losing the connection, not to the DSL, that light stays on but the internet light goes off. I went through the usual channels online chat, telephone support to wherever that goes. I'm done with all that, that's good for people with trouble using their modem, etc. or can't connect it but not what I am looking for.
Finally they sent out a tech who was a nice enough person, what he did was call a central office and after them first claiming the lower speed was the right speed they put the connection back in the area of 3360/832. Then they said it will probably adjust itself to down around 2800 down, which it what I had before so I was OK with it. After several days with a number of disconnects (they don't last too long but very annoying) I am back to 1792 / 448.
I am using the same modem - Actiontec GT704WGB
I don't need a tech call here in the house again, nothing has changed in here since I moved in months ago. They can check the outside signal without me waiting around for them. They don't have to stand in here to call an office on their tablet.
I need to hear from Verizon personnel that can tell me LOCAL information about why my connection speed has tanked and why there are dropouts now. And most importantly, why it can't be the same as it was for all those months. As I said, I was happy with that - especially when it was 3360 / 832 kbps.
Solved!
Go to Solution.When Verizon turns your speed back up, they have to disable the optimization system they use on the lines to maintain your speed, since it sounds like that is just turning your speed back down after a few days. Make them fix it back again.
For future note, if you do have problems with your DSL and you're also having audio quality issues with your phone, call Voice Repair, and leave DSL support out of the mix. DSL support usually dials back the speed for a line issue from what I've seen as a first try basis. If you do have noise that disappears when the DSL modem is off, then that could be from other things which DSL support OR phone support will be needed for.
Ex: Two years ago I had a problem with my Frontier DSL line having a ton of static on the line. The DSL modem was not synchronizing, however the noise stopped when I shut off the modem. It turns out, the night before lightning struck a tree outside of my home, and caused the DSL modem which was several years old to fry. The modem was still powering up, but the chip responsible for the DSL connection itself was blown. A new modem from Frontier via DSL Support fixed the DSL connection AND the static.
Ex2: At a local business with Verizon DSL, they hear static on their line from time to time, but only while the DSL is active. The problem was not with the DSL itself or any filters, but as the static got worse it began to show up without the DSL being connected. Voice repair was dispatched instead of calling DSL Support, and resolved the problem by running new cable between the building and the Verizon copper trunk. In addition, they found and corrected some corroding splices.
========
The first to bring me 1Gbps Fiber for $30/m wins! -
can anyone help me with Magicjack? after I purchased US number I am unable to log in on my Iphone, I keep getting an error "YOUR DEVICE IS NOT ON THIS ACCOUNT" I contacted MJ support but they are very much useless and dont know how to fix it!
There's a whole lot to read in your post, and frankly I have not read it all.
Having said that, this troubleshooting guide should help:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1538
In particular, pay attention to the mobile device support sections near the bottom, assuming you have already done the items above it. -
K, well it says that there is a 3194 error everytime i try to update my iphone on itunes or restore it. I have tried pretty much all the things on the list from here and it is still not working. When I try to update my itunes it says i have a update but then after it tells me to update my phone to iOS 5.1.1 and then here comes the 3194 error again. Please somebody help
to doublecheck you tried everything error 3194 http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3694#error3194
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In the last few days, it seems that my computer has all of a sudden caught a virus. I have never had that happened to a computer, but I have surely heard about it. I can't think of any other reason it is behaving like this. I know that Macs have been pretty much impervious to viruses, but that was before they were the majority of users.
Anyway, what is happening is, my computer keeps crashing whenever I try to open a program, app, document, folder, file, etc. I tried to boot from Drive Genius to establish the problem, but Drive Genius crashed too. I know the last ditch effort (after cleaning and maintenance of disc verification and permissions and repairs, is to reboot from the system disc.
Before I go there I was hoping someone in the community would have a suggestion to help me avoid that ultimate last resort. The tech support guy at Drive Genius told me that probably would have to be the way to go (as in reboot) and if that doesn't clear it up, it's repair time.
Thank you for your consideration in advance;
Lorain RIn the last few days, it seems that my computer has all of a sudden caught a virus.
As others have pointed out, this isn't malware. That should not be your first (or even fifty-first) thought when your Mac starts misbehaving. For more on this topic, see my Mac Malware Guide.
I know the last ditch effort (after cleaning and maintenance of disc verification and permissions and repairs, is to reboot from the system disc.
You mention "cleaning and maintenance." Have you been running utilities claiming to do those things? If so, you may be the victim of an overly-zealous cleaning job, which has removed important files and damaged your system.
If I'm understanding correctly, you're unable to open any applications at all... is that right? Do you have any backups? If you don't have backups, you're in a sticky situation, as it will be difficult to make backups in your current state, but you shouldn't try any kind of repairs without them. (Actually, you shouldn't do anything with your computer without backups, but this is especially important when something is going badly wrong.)
If you have backups, reboot from your Snow Leopard install disc. From there, first, repair the hard drive with Disk Utility. Once that is done, assuming repairs were successful, reinstall the system. You can simply reinstall it on top of your current system, and it will replace any damaged or lost system files with new copies. (You'll also need to update the system via Software Update after reinstalling.)
If you don't have backups, or if Disk Utility can't repair damage, or if the problem continues even after a reinstall, post back with those details. -
My iphone is stuck in recovery mode and itunes will not recognize my phone. I've tried pretty much every trick i can and i still do not know what to do. Someone please help me
I've done all of these, even trying a different USB port, and still, nothing. This is really confusing. Windows 8.1 said something to do with USB malfunction or something and nothing works. I need to restore my iPhone quickly and nothing has happened. My cable is not genuine Apple product. iTunes makes the noise that it makes when I connect the device, but it doesn't say 'iPhone is in recovery mode' or even say 'iPhone' in the corner. I am really fed up and would really appreciate a response.
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2nd generation ipod touch is pretty much no good anymore? It is not able to upgrade to iOS5.1 and so will not work with many Apps in the iTunes store? Is there a way to find out if the App will work before you download?
Look to the app developer to provide that information when browsing the iTunes Store.
The iPod Touch still works, so what's your problem with it? It still works with older apps, it still does what it's intended to do.
If you aren't happy then sell it and buy a new one. -
I've pretty much confirmed that the interactivity between Word/Acrobat Mac vs. Word/Acrobat PC is completely hosed in certain situations...Please tell me I am wrong!
Situation: two workgroups need to work with each other sharing and editing word and pdf files for complex documents containing a TOC, list of figures, etc.
Problems reproducible on many machine types and configs:
1. WORD FILES: TOCs do not retain hot links within a doc that has been touched by a mac, and then re-saved as a PDF with the intent to have a linked TOC with chapter heads.
2. PDF FILES: that have been touched by a mac, for example to edit the document properties, will loose all TOC function as in problem #1 above.
In short, this rots for mac users who have to share/edit these files with PC brethren.
The only solution that I found for mac users is this:
Do your thing in Word 2008. Then have a PC version of Word and PC version of acrobat installed on a virtual drive like Parallels or VMWare, etc. Delete your TOC using MS Word for Windows, reinsert a new one, and then use the PC distiller installed into word by Acrobat Professional to create a new PDF that will be cross-platform functional.
I had a meeting with the Mac users to explain this work around and they looked at me like I was crazy, and they pretty much said go pound sand, we don't care if the TOCs are linked or not.
Well, I may be exaggerating there a bit, but NO ONE was happy with this solution, including myself. Our BIG question is "Is anyone going to fix this problem in the shortterm?!?" And it's Microsoft and Adobe both that seem to have some responsibility here...with an emphasis on Adobe, as it's clearly not just an MS isssue, as you can totally destroy a working TOC in a PDF file by just editing the file properties on a mac. Arg...
I also find it frustrating that Adobe does not have a forum for cross-platform specific issues, which to me seems consipiritory. Ha!
Message was edited by: hero jig~graffiti wrote:
PjonesCET wrote:I have word from people that know from Microsoft support, Say Adobe is talking hot air.
Sure you do Phil.
I follow the Microsoft office Mac. Word forum and excel Forum as much or, more so even than the Forums here.
And All the experts say its a smoke screen.
You can go and look at bio of all the people by MS to answer questions and what their field of Expertise. Most have impressive credentials in their field. Many write professionally Documents, books and other such. -
IPhone 4S has lost sound on iTunes, films and pretty much everything since ios6 update!
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Try a hard reset.....
Press and hold the Wake / Sleep button and the Home button at the same time, keep them both pressed until the Apple Logo appears. -
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http://www.screenr.com/3h5H
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This is just what I'm pulling off the top of my head.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.Still doing it? I should have ran your video, so sorry for that. That sort of beeping is mostly likely hardware related, and coming from the BIOS. It is also a warning!
First thing I would do is install Speccy
http://www.piriform.com/speccy
...and have a very close look at system temperatures. It might be that a fan has failed, or is clogged with dust, or you are using a laptop sat on a soft surface blocking the vents?
Or it might be memory, like a loose or failing RAM stick. There various free downloads that will test your memory.
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OK. Does this only happen in Photoshop? If so, what is unique to Photoshop? A graphics tablet for instance?
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