Is a Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM Autofocus Zoom Lens compatible with a Canon 1DX?

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Sometimes just for fun hehe ... I have a Sigma 10-20 for my 30D. When I upgrade to the 6D, I still keep the old camera + sigma lens. I know I can mount it on the 6D, so I did.
Weekend Travelers Blog | Eastern Sierra Fall Color Guide

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  • My Lens Correction Feature Disappeared on my Lightroom/My Sigma 10-20mm Lens is not there

    My Lens Correction Feature Disappeared on my Lightroom/My Sigma 10-20mm Lens is not there

    The profile is applied automatically. Therefore, nothing for you to.

  • Teleconverter for 600D with Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 EX DG OS HSM?

    I've been reading that 2x teleconverters aren't that great. That they can cause a lot of image quality loss as well as slowing down or even stopping auto focus from working altogether. What do I need to know about teleconverters to make an educated purchase?
    Thanks,
    Cg.
    Canon 6D,Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM, Sigma 1.4 x EX DG Teleconverter, Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 macro USM, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8, EF 40mm f/2.8 pancake, Sigma AF 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM, Pentax 400mm f/5.6

    Anytime you add anything into the light path of any lens, you are going to degrade the image quality. Now, that may be a slight or it can be a significant loss.
    I have always subscribed to using the original manufacturers accessories and in this case I still think so.
    Sigma makes two tele converters that will work with your lens. Both are designed for your lens and retain all features including AF.
    The Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 EX DG OS HSM is of such high quality it has room to give up a small amount of IQ, introduced by the tele converter, and still be better that some 70-200mm without one.
    Another consideration is how big do you intend to make the prints? Do you use a tripod?
    So you must weigh all the factors of IQ and cost plus slower AF, etc, and decide if it is for you.
    I recommend the 1.4x over the 2x, though.
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

  • Aperture 2.1 not recognizing my Sigma 120-300 F2.8 APO EX IF HSM DG

    It gives me this as my lens used: Sigma 17-35mm f2.8-4 EX Aspherical HSM which of course is not even close.
    Can an admin let the people know about this one. It would really help to get this corrected.
    Thanks

    Use Aperture's "submit feedback" option to report this. There is no admin here reporting bugs to the Aperture team.

  • Canon produce a zoom lens to compete with Sigma 150-500mm and soon to be released Tamron 150-600mm

    When will Canon complete with Sigma 150-500mm ($899 B&H), Tamron 150-600mm ($1,060) B&H, the L 100-400 is outdated compared to these newer lens, $600 more expensive and doesn't have the range using my 7D
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Easy answer!
    Neither of those lenses are close to the level of quality, all things considered, as the Canon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS.
    In this respect they are NOT comparable. If you disregard everything except build quality, the comparison is not even close.
    Not that the third party lenses are not serviceable, they are.  But certainly you see the distinct difference?
    You are simply not going to get a Canon L for a Sigma price.
    Sigma has made some extreme strides in lens production lately. For instance the 35mm f1.4 Sigma is by all accounts sharper than the daunted Canon 35mm f1.4 L. But upon closer examination the build difference is quite noticeable. What's it worth to you?
    Now if you want Canon to update the 100-400mm, they will and I suspect to see it this year. The year of the lens!
    If you want it to be in the 500mm to 600mm range, I doubt it will happen.
    A 400mm f5.6 L prime with IS is supposed to be in the future, too. Very interesting as this is a real winner of a lens.
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

  • Sigma 50mm F1.4 DG HSM, Nikon mount lens correction =- not supported?

    Lens database states that this lens is supported in Lightroom 5.5.
    I'm running version 5.7 and the lens profile does not seem to be available. - hat do I need to do?

    Are you trying a JPEG instead of a Raw file when looking?

  • Canon EOS 70D Ultra Wide Lens

    Headed to Banff National Park in 2014.  It has been suggested I purchase an ultra wide lens - a 16 or 17mm on full frame cameras, but a minimum focal length of 24mm.  Any suggestions for the best lens that meets this criteria?

    I'd also recommend the Canon EF-S 10-22mm. It would be one of my top choices for great image quality, unusually good flare resistance for an ultrawide lens, plus excellent autofocus performance.
    Personally my close second choice would be the Tokina 12-24mm f4. It's an excellent lens, too. Very close to the Canon in most respects and possibly even better built (it's "L-like").
    I've been using the Toki 12-24 for a number of years and have just recently bought a copy of the Canon 10-22 and am starting to use it too.
    There are also:
    Tokina 11-16mm f2.8. This is another very nice lens,might even be sharper than the 12-24, but also a bit more expensive and more prone to flare.  more expensive than the 12-24 and more prone to flare. Also, to get f2.8 - which most people really don't need on an ultrawide - the trade off is a very narrow range of focal lengths.
    Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 is one of the lower cost options. Sigma 10-20mm f3.5 is a more expensive and larger lens. It also uses larger than usual filters, more expensive 82mm. Most of the other lenses listed here use 77mm filters.
    Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6 is the widest lens available for APS-C crop sensor cameras (short of going to a fisheye). It cannot be uses with standard filters, due to a strongly convex front element.
    Tamron 10-24mm f3.5-4.5 has the widest range of focal lengths in a single lens and is one of the more affordable choices. A lot of users report it's a bit soft at the 24mm end of the zoom.
    If you prefer a prime instead of a zoom, a Rokinon 14mm f2.8 is an affodable option. Note that this is a manual focus and manual aperture only lens, so rather slow to work with. But it's got decent image quality. It also sells branded as a Samyang, ProOptic, Bower, Vivitar (13mm) and some others. All are the same lens, so shop around if you're interested in this lens. Note that it's another lens that cannot be used with standard filters, because it has a strongly protruding front element. All other 14mm and 15mm prime lenses are extremely expensive.
    Yes, the Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6 would work, too.... However I wouldn't recommend it because it's actually a full frame capable lens and quite a bit more expensive than most of the above. Sort of a waste, you would be paying extra for full frame coverage and not using it at all on a crop camera such as your 70D.
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

  • Telephoto zoom lens for T4i

    Need to know telephoto zoom lenses compatible with T4i and best recommendation for close, sharp photos of wildlife and nature. Especially interested in birding.

    You'll need to spend to get good results so PLEASE do your homework first. Popular Canon lenses are the 100-400 L IS, 400 f5.6L & 300 f4 L IS plus a 1.4 teleconverter (for times 300 is not enough), Sigma 50-500 OS & 150-500 OS. Next set of popular lenses are mucho $$$$ but get the job done better.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Is the Bower SFD926C Dedicated Digital. Guide Number 125 fully Compatible with the Canon 600D

    I want a Camera Mounted and Wireless Speedlite compatible with my Canon 600d 
    Is the Bower SFD926C Dedicated Digital Flash for Canon SLR Cameras, Guide Number 125 fully Compatible with the Canon 600D ?
    http://www.adorama.com/BOWSFD926C.html
    I am going to buy this for 89 dollars.
    are ther better Options with similar Price ?
    thanks for the replies

    Personaly I would not buy one but for $89 bucks, why not?
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

  • I would like to replace a Sigma lens with a cannon equivalent.

    The lens is a Sigma 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 DG with macro.  Which Cannon lens would come close? The body is a EOS Rebal T3i.
    Thanks
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Hi, Cscott.
    A few questions might help with the answer.
    1.)  What other lenses do you own? 
    2.)  What is your budget?
    Also, weak color is not normally something you fix by going from one broad zoom lens to another broad zoom lens.  You might consider picking up an inexpensive prime lens, if you don't already have one.  They have less glass, thus less flare, thus deeper colors.  They also take in something like 4 times more light, meaning you can use 4 stops lower ISO, which will also preserve your colors and not let them get washed out by high-ISO distortion.
    I would personally not try to cram so much use out of one lens.  The broader the focal length, the more compromises the designers had to make to get the lens to do that many different things.  If you do a lot of macro, maybe you get yourself an EF-S 60mm macro, or a 100mm non-IS macro.
    If you shoot low light get maybe a cheap 50mm f/1.8 prime for $100 bucks.
    Before I tossed that Sigma lens out, (and especially before replacing it with another lens that is nearly identical ! ), I would think about keeping it for what it is good at, like shooting outdoors in bright sunlight.  Then fill in the gaps with lenses that work better in low light (lower f/numbers/wider apertures) or macro.  If you can give up the zoom and go with a prime or two, you get much more image quality bang for less buck.
    Scott
    Canon 6D, Canon T3i, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; EF 85mm f/1.8; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites
    Why do so many people say "fer-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

  • How to calculate sigma notation in LV?

    Greetings,
    I am looking for a method to calculate Sigma notation (see attachment) in LV. I cannot seem to find a way using MathScript to do this.
    I already attempted to manually write out code to process these formulas, but my results are offtrack (that's a seperate issue.... if someone would like to attempt to debug my code, let me know and I'll post it). 
    Any ideas?
    Thanks.
    -Ryan
    Attachments:
    formula.jpg ‏64 KB

    We cannot debug your code unless you attach it
    ...agreed...
    So then, I humbly submit my work for review.
    The theory I'm working on here is finding a best-fit plane through some data. So we enter a bunch of points (XYZ's), and plot them to show what they look like. Then we calculate the best-fit plane, and plot it. The two planes should appear to be identical.
    I'm also using a 3D control to draw the points in planar form. The first chart is built from the numbers directly to the right of it. The default numbers in the "Input array" are known to be on a common plane (not a normal condition for this program, but for a formula proof, this was easiest).
    The second chart is the "Calculated" best-fit plane. The actual XYZ's are shown in the array to the right, but they are of little use to the operator.
    Notice I took the step of making the X, Y, and Z scale on both charts all into a 1:1 (1:1:1...?) ratio. With that taken into consideration, the plane on the first chart should like very similar to the plane on the second chart (the compound angles should be identical, but the physical size and positioning in the chart are immaterial).
    The third tab shows the raw data from the calculations.
    Block diagram (don't laugh; this was only meant to be a formula proof only!):
    Specifically. I'm looking for someone to verify if I'm calculating Sigma properly. You will see notations in the formula (string-constant boxes with numbers in them... the numbers correlate to the numbers on the indicators....so that the area of the formula with the "1" notation will have the result shown in the "1" indicator, etc.). I think the theory of plotting the data is in good shape.
    As you can see by executing the VI....the two planes currently do not match.
    Any help that can be provided will be greatly appreciated.
    -Ryan
    Message Edited by RWiersma on 10-30-2006 09:47 AM
    Attachments:
    Best-fit-plane.vi ‏89 KB

  • Need a Sigma zoom profile--Sigma DG  50-500mm  4.5-6.3 APO

    Does anyone have this lens profile:   Sigma DG  50 - 500 mm  4.5 - 6.3 APO or can Adobe create this for me? I take photos of birds, and I use the following:
    Canon 7D
    My lenses are:     Sigma DC 18 - 250   3.5-6.3 HSM---I have this lens in Camera Raw
    However I cannot find the lens:  Sigma DG  50 - 500 mm  4.5 -6.3  APO at all in Camera Raw for me to select.
    I do not know how to create a profile, so would someone be kind enough to create one for me? I need it ASAP.
    Thanks for your time.
    98 cam

    Here are the RAW-only lens profile files that ship with Lightroom 3.4 RC, where it looks like the Olympus is the camera-brand that doesn't have the 4.5-6.3 version of the lens:
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM         1,443,084 Canon (SIGMA APO 50-500mm F4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM           844,369 Canon (Sigma_50-500mm_F4-6.3_APO_EX_DG_HSM ) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM         1,460,076 NIKON CORPORATION (SIGMA APO 50-500mm F4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM           607,951 NIKON CORPORATION (Sigma_50-500mm_F4-6.3_APO_EX_DG_HSM ) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM           846,553 OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP (Sigma_50-500mm_F4-6.3_APO_EX_DG_HSM ) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM         1,405,644 PENTAX (SIGMA APO 50-500mm F4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM           822,529 PENTAX (Sigma_50-500mm_F4-6.3_APO_EX_DG_HSM ) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM         1,387,212 SIGMA (SIGMA APO 50-500mm F4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM           811,777 SIGMA (Sigma_50-500mm_F4-6.3_APO_EX_DG_HSM ) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM         1,386,348 SONY (SIGMA APO 50-500mm F4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM) - RAW.lcp
    03/08/2011  04:37 PM           811,273 SONY (Sigma_50-500mm_F4-6.3_APO_EX_DG_HSM ) - RAW.lcp

  • Profile in Lightrooom 3.6 for Sigma 10-20 mm 1:4-5.6 DC for use on Pentax K5 Camera

    When goiing to lens-profiles in Adobe Lightroom 3.6
    The Sigma 10-20 1:4-5.6 DC lens is not recognised.
    Of the programmed Sigma Lenses a 12-24 mm lens is the most nearby.
    Can Adobe create further profiles for the above and other common
    used lenses to come with a Lightroom update ?
    Or do I have to contact Sigma ?
    How to proceed ?
    macnesch

    Here are the steps I can take to choose a Pentax fit Sigma 10-20/f4-5.6 EX DC on one of my RAW files (from an A77 incidentally but I think I can select any combination of Lens/Camera, as long as the lens profile is somewhere in LR 3.6.
    1)  Open the file
    2)  Get to the Develop module
    3)  Make sure the Lens Corrections section is enabled (near the bottom of the right sidebar)
    4)  Click on Profile (not Manual)
    5)  Click on Enable Profile Corrections (so the box is ticked)
    6)  Make sure set up is Default
    7)  Choose Make as Sigma
    8)  Choose Model as SIGMA 10-20 F4-5.6 EX DC/HSM
    9)  Choose Profile as Adobe (SIGMA 10-20 F4-5.6 EX DC/HSM, PENTAX)
    and that's it done!
    Perhaps you are following these steps and not seeing the correct profiles in the lists for steps 8 and 9.  This might be the case if you are trying to adjust a JPG file.  I only get a limited list of Sigma lenses for JPG files and I suspect this might be your problem.  If you are trying to adjust a RAW file then I'm not sure how to install the full set of profiles as the Lightroom installation did this for me.
    If the JPG is indeed what is causing your problem, I read somewhere that the lens correction files (.LCP files somehere on your computer) are "merely simple XML files" and a RAW profile can be edited to apply to JPG files as well.  However, this is way beyond my level of expertise.  Perhaps there is a thread elsewhere on the forum that explains how to do this....
    Good luck!

  • How can i add the Sigma 10mm 2.8 Fisheye lens profile from the camera profile in windows to lightroom 5?

    It only seems to give me a 15mm fisheye option for Sigma and not the 10mm even though it is a profile in the camera profiles folder.
    Can anyone help with importing this profile into Lightroom?

    nickpearse wrote:
    Just so it is black and white for my sake. I am shooting with a Nikon D7100 using a Sigma Fisheye 10mm 2.8 and using the Lens Profile of the Sigma 15mm 2.8mm on Lightroom.
    Then the correct profile to use is the Sigma 10mm F2.8 if you want proper Vignetting correction and matching Distortion correction, but you'll need to shoot camera raw images (i.e. no JPEG lens profile). This is also why you are only seeing partial correction. As I said, "With a crop factor camera only the central crop area of the full-frame Sigma 15mm lens profile will be applied."
    That said there is absolutely nothing wrong with using the Sigma 15mm lens profile with your crop factor Nikon D7100 if you are happy with the partial correction results, but you can also do this using the correct Sigma 10mm lens profile (set less than 100). There is a fisheye correction plugin called Fisheye-Hemi that works very similar in that it only applies partial correction. You're getting about the same results as Fisheye-Hemi for free using partial correction with the LR lens profile tool. That should make you happy! I suggest experimenting with both the 15mm and 10mm lens profiles and start shooting camera raw image files. Your're not realizing the camera's full capability shooting JPEGs!
    In the DSC_7098 images posted none of them look very sharp (slow shutter speed?). Other than geometric correction I can't judge the posted images for "sharpness" in the corrected areas, which is the major concern. The biggest issue with rectilinear correction of fisheye images is loss of detail in areas with the most correction (edges and corners).  If that were not the case people would use fisheye lenses for ALL wide-angle images and simply correct them inside LR. Sadly that's not the case and using LR's Lens Profile Distortion and other transform tools to correct fisheye images considerably softens the corrected areas (sides and corners).
    Fisheye geometric distortion with some subjects is almost undetectable. So how much correction you need will vary by subject type and what the end use for the image. Any fisheye image that has correction applied will lose sharpness in the corrected areas, which may be fine for most purposes other than large prints.So it's best not to strive for 100% rectilinear correction–Just the correction needed to make the image look better.
    Canon 8-15mm F4L FE on 5D MKII Full-Frame @ 15mm (No correction)
    Looks good to me with no correction!
    For more flexibility and better results PS's Wide Angle Adaptive filter and content aware fill tools will retain more image detail in the corrected areas. Here's the same lens and camera with an image processed in PS:
    15mm Full-Frame Fisheye
                          LR Distortion = 50 (partial)                PS Adaptive Wide Angle Filter + Content Aware Fill
    The corner image detail is about the same in both of the above images at 1:1 view. Partial LR Distortion correction is good!
    So what happens if I apply 100 Distortion correction to the image inside LR?
    1:1 Compare View (lower-left) with LR Distortion = 100
    100% LR Distortion correction of fisheye images is NOT good IMHO!

  • Sigma 35mm Upright Doesn't Work Properly

    Hello,
    I am using Lightroom 5.7
    Equipment I use is:
    Nikon D800E
    Sigma 35mm f1.4
    Tamron 24-70 f2.8
    I shoot raw
    The problem is when I use Sigma 35mm, Lightroom auto upright function tilts all pictures too much to the right. The profile is correct (Sigma 35mm f1.4). See sample pic below.
    It works correctly with Tamron 24-70.
    Does anybody have an idea how to solve this apart from doing it manually for every picture?

    Reboot your computer in Safe Mode and then try to reset all Skype settings.
    Go to Windows Start and in the Search/Run box type %appdata% and then press Enter or click the OK button. The Windows File Explorer will pop up. There locate a folder named “Skype”. Rename this folder to something different, e.g. Skype_old.
    Next go to Windows Start and in the Search/Run box type %temp%\skype and then press Enter or click the OK button. Delete the DbTemp folder.
    Reboot in normal mode and try to start Skype.
    N.B. If needed, you will still be able to re-establish your call and chat history. All data is still saved in the Skype_old folder.

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