KisMac passive on a macbook pro

does anyone know how to run kismac in passive mode on a macbook pro or can recommend any wireless cards i can buy to do this, thanks

My understanding is that any USB wireless card should work.
I used a microsoft one even!

Similar Messages

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

Soon-to-be Macbook Pro convert asks questions

Hi there!
I have had Windows PCs in the past and i want some change. i want to do things more quicker & simplier. I have been researching for the past week or so a comparison on Apple Macs and the latest crop of Windows 7 laptops and i wanted to ask questions so i can convince myself if a Mac (in particular the Macbook Pro) is the one for me:
1. Price
The Cheapest Macbook Pro is down for £999. with the same (or less) of the price for a Windows 7 laptop i can have a high-end laptop with a little more specs inside (disregarding wether you "need" the specs or not). Why buy a Mac?
2. Camera
Does the FacetimeHD Camera allow for 3rd-party chat like Skype, Facebook video chat, Google talk or Yahoo Messenger?
3. Bluetooth
With Bluetooth on-board will it allow sending or receiving files from a non-Apple device? and/or will it allow 3rd-party peripherals such as webcam,keyboard, mice or speakers to work (i.e. compatibility)?
4. DLNA
The Macbook Pro doesn't seem to have DLNA on-board. what if i want to "throw" files to my TV via my PS3 will i need another Apple peripheral to do that?
5. microSD card slot
Is the microSD card slot universal and is compatible with most if not all types?
6. Keypad
It does say somthing as "multitouch". would that mean pinch-to-zoom photos/videos/websites? swiping as well?
7. Software & Programmes
I like my Windows 7 laptop as i can download almost any WIndows-compatible softwares & programmes. things such as a browser (Firefox & Chrome), music management (3rd-party alternative to iTunes), anti-virus, etc. Will the Macbook Pro "in general" allow us to do that as well?
8. Web Apps
Much i am not familiar with these web apps. All i know is they are just like apps on a smartphone. The Google Chromebook was built for the web and has loads of web apps on its Market. does Apple have a similar system? can i download Apple and also Google web apps on the MBPro?
9. USB ports
The MBPro has USB ports but can i insert any 3rd-party external/portable hard drive in order to view files such as JPEG photos, MP3 files or AVI movies?
Do i need to download a 1st-party or 3rd-party software in order to view/play those said files?
10. Uploading & Editing photos
Say i have a 32GB microSD card with photos or videos. i want to upload them to Facebook or Flicker or videos onto Youtube. i can do that on the Macbook Pro can i? do i need a 1st-party or 3rd-party software to do that?
I'm also into basic editing of photos like with Picassa. is there a similar/equivalent product to edit a photo? (like cropping,sharpness, background effects, etc.) and after editing the photo can i easily save it on my Mac and attach as an email?
11. Hard Drive
I read its an SSD-type. but can i easily partition the hard drive into equal or uneven parts? do i need a 1st-party or 3rd-pary software in order to do that? (the reason being so to organise my files properly and avoid "errors" in them)
12. Fan Noise
I have a 1-year old HP Windows 7 laptop and after watching a movie for an hour the fan starts to become noisy and heats up after 2 hours. do i need to worry about fan noise or overheating with the MB Pro? does it have a fan or an exhaust?
13. Warranty & Buying
What is the standard local UK/EU warranty and what does it cover? do i have a choice of an "extended" warranty? or can i just bring in my MB Pro for repairs only on an Apple store or a PC World/Currys store? would it be free if its in an Apple store?
What are the advantages of buying one at an Apple store? more perks/benefits/deals,etc.?
14. Wallpapers
can i change the wallpaper easily on a MB Pro like in a Windows 7 laptop?
15. Startup & Shutdown
I have heard both processes are quick and fast but is it just a one-touch/one-button thing? (unlike with Windows 7 you have to go to the symbol then...you know what i mean)
16. Speakers & 3.5mm jack
Does a MB Pro have dual stereo speakers? do they have any other effects (or say equalizers) i can change or tweal to make it more louder or more surround in sound? can i connect any standard speakers on the standard 3.5mm headphione jack?
17. Games
Now, lets face it. most games are on the home consoles then second is for the PC. i want to ask first: can i download games on iTunes and be able to play them on my MB Pro? (e.g. an iPad game) and say if i have a Google account can i (in theory) download games off the Android Market to play on my MB Pro?
18. Browsers
Safari might be better & faster than IE but i like mine Chrome. can i download ANY 3rd-party browsers (like Chrome or Firefox) on the MC Pro?
19. Antivirus
No need? and why?
20. OS
Does the MB Pro come with the latest OS X and with back-up disc on the box?
21. Updates
Like any PC or smartphone how often does Apple release updates for its Macbook range? and how do i update mine?
That is all for now.

well..it is a long list but I will answer as many as I can.
onslaught wrote:
1. Price
The Cheapest Macbook Pro is down for £999. with the same (or less) of the price for a Windows 7 laptop i can have a high-end laptop with a little more specs inside (disregarding wether you "need" the specs or not). Why buy a Mac?
http://www.apple.com/why-mac/
2. Camera
Does the FacetimeHD Camera allow for 3rd-party chat like Skype, Facebook video chat, Google talk or Yahoo Messenger?
I know for sure it works with Skype, not sure about the others as I do not use them.
5. microSD card slot
Is the microSD card slot universal and is compatible with most if not all types?
Cards that conform to the SD 1.x, 2.x, and 3.x standards should work. The SD card slot can use cards that are Standard SD (Secure Digital) 4 MB to 2 GB, SDHC (Secure Digital High Capacity) 4 GB to 32 GB, and SDXC (Secure Digital Extended Capacity) 4G B to 2 TB. MMC can also be used in this slot. MiniSD, MicroSD, and higher density formats like MiniSDHC and MicroSDHC can also work with the use of "passive" adapters that conform to the width and thickness specifications listed above.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3553#3
6. Keypad
It does say somthing as "multitouch". would that mean pinch-to-zoom photos/videos/websites? swiping as well?
Yes. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3211
7. Software & Programmes
I like my Windows 7 laptop as i can download almost any WIndows-compatible softwares & programmes. things such as a browser (Firefox & Chrome), music management (3rd-party alternative to iTunes), anti-virus, etc. Will the Macbook Pro "in general" allow us to do that as well?
There are Mac compatible versions of Firefox and Chrome (I use both). You don't need anti virus on a mac unless you also have Windows installed on a seperate partition.
8. Web Apps
Much i am not familiar with these web apps. All i know is they are just like apps on a smartphone. The Google Chromebook was built for the web and has loads of web apps on its Market. does Apple have a similar system? can i download Apple and also Google web apps on the MBPro?
Apple has the App store where you can access free and paid apps. I have used Google Chrome Apps on the Chrome homepage (anrgy birds).
10. Uploading & Editing photos
Say i have a 32GB microSD card with photos or videos. i want to upload them to Facebook or Flicker or videos onto Youtube. i can do that on the Macbook Pro can i? do i need a 1st-party or 3rd-party software to do that?
I'm also into basic editing of photos like with Picassa. is there a similar/equivalent product to edit a photo? (like cropping,sharpness, background effects, etc.) and after editing the photo can i easily save it on my Mac and attach as an email?
Yes, Macs have a built in photo software that will do this. It is called iPhoto
11. Hard Drive
I read its an SSD-type. but can i easily partition the hard drive into equal or uneven parts? do i need a 1st-party or 3rd-pary software in order to do that? (the reason being so to organise my files properly and avoid "errors" in them)
Yes you can partition you hard drive as you like without any additional software
12. Fan Noise
I have a 1-year old HP Windows 7 laptop and after watching a movie for an hour the fan starts to become noisy and heats up after 2 hours. do i need to worry about fan noise or overheating with the MB Pro? does it have a fan or an exhaust?
MacBooks tend to run hot when doing intense things, such as watching movies or using demanding programs. The 13" models have 1 fan and the 15" and 17" models have 2 fans.
14. Wallpapers
can i change the wallpaper easily on a MB Pro like in a Windows 7 laptop?
Yes.
15. Startup & Shutdown
I have heard both processes are quick and fast but is it just a one-touch/one-button thing? (unlike with Windows 7 you have to go to the symbol then...you know what i mean)
You can shut down the mac in a similar manner like on a PC or use a keyboard shortcut.
13. Warranty & Buying
What is the standard local UK/EU warranty and what does it cover? do i have a choice of an "extended" warranty? or can i just bring in my MB Pro for repairs only on an Apple store or a PC World/Currys store? would it be free if its in an Apple store?
What are the advantages of buying one at an Apple store? more perks/benefits/deals,etc.?
Every new mac comes with a 1 year hardware warranty and 90 days of phone support. You can purchase an extended warranty which will provide a total of 3 years of hardware warranty and phone support. It is called AppleCare. Here is what it covers: http://images.apple.com/legal/warranty/docs/cpuwarranty.pdf
16. Speakers & 3.5mm jack
Does a MB Pro have dual stereo speakers? do they have any other effects (or say equalizers) i can change or tweal to make it more louder or more surround in sound? can i connect any standard speakers on the standard 3.5mm headphione jack?
In my opinion, the speakers on the 13" MacBook Pro are sub par. I can't say how they are on the other models. They only have basic adjustments for the internal speakers. You should be able to hook up any external speakers that fit in the jack.
17. Games
Now, lets face it. most games are on the home consoles then second is for the PC. i want to ask first: can i download games on iTunes and be able to play them on my MB Pro? (e.g. an iPad game) and say if i have a Google account can i (in theory) download games off the Android Market to play on my MB Pro?
You can download games from the App store and play them as long as your mac meets the games requirements. For gaming, I would suggest a 15" or 17" model as they have 2 graphics cards, the 13" only has 1 graphics card. Apps for iPads can not be played on mac computers, they are specific for iDevices or Macs. Not sure about the Android question.
18. Browsers
Safari might be better & faster than IE but i like mine Chrome. can i download ANY 3rd-party browsers (like Chrome or Firefox) on the MC Pro?
I have Safari, Firefox, Opera, and Chrome on my mac. Internet Explorer stopped support for macs in 2005.
19. Antivirus
No need? and why?
Read this: http://www.reedcorner.net/guides/macvirus/
20. OS
Does the MB Pro come with the latest OS X and with back-up disc on the box?
No. It has a built in recovery partition. Read this: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718
21. Updates
Like any PC or smartphone how often does Apple release updates for its Macbook range? and how do i update mine?
Yes, Macs have "software update". Updates are released as Apple determines they are necessary. You can chose to have it look for software updates in certain intervals or you can easily do it manually.
Not bad. 18/21 questions answered

How do I hook up external speaker to macbook pro

How do I hook up external speaker to macbook pro?

The external speaker needs to be active - have it's own power source and amplifier - then you can just hook it up with an appropriate cable from the headphone output socket of the Mac. If you want to go wireless, you would need to get an Airport Express - probably overkill - or get a bluetooth dongle that could be hooked to the speakers input.
If the external speaker is passive, you would need to attach it to a HiFi and hook the Mac up to the input of the HiFi.

MacBook and MacBook Pro competing for airwaves

Howdy,
I have an Airport Extreme set up as wireless router, i.e., the cable modem is plugged into the Extreme. Elsewhere in the house, an Airport Express is set up to extend the network. We have both a MacBook and a MacBook Pro, both running Leopard. When both laptops are accessing the web, it seems as though they were competing for the connection because the MacBook systematically gets slower connections, lags, and sometimes gets disconnected entirely.
Following some advice I found elsewhere in these forums, I downgraded the firmware of the Airport Extreme to 7.3.1. Here are its main settings:
- participate in a WDS network
- radio mode: 802.11n (b/g compatible)
- channel 11
- security: WPA/WPA2 Personal
- DHCP server distributes addresses between 10.0.1.2 and 10.0.1.200
Both the Extreme and the Express use the same channel. I tried changing it with no success.
Upgrading the firmware does not resolve the issue. The MacBook Pro is never disconnected; it always comes ahead of the MacBook. The two laptops are not dealt the same IP address, but somehow, there is a competition. When the MacBook Pro is turned off, say, and not accessing the web or anything else, the MacBook does not get disconnected.
Has anyone seen such a situation before? I might have misconfigured something.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Dom

In a WDS setup, everyone uses the same channel (in your case 11).
If you can run an ethernet cable from the Airport Extreme to the Airport Express you can eliminate the WDS mode and instead configure your 2 base stations for WiFi Roaming, and you can put the Airport Express on a different channel (eg. Ch1).
The Airport Express gets its connection to the router via ethernet. The Express is configured into "Bridge Mode". The Express is given the exact same SSID as the Extreme. The Express is given the exact same password as the Extreme. The Express is set to a different channel (Channel 1 would be a good choice, unless your neighbors are using that, in which case you want to be at least 5 channels away from your Extreme and any neighboring base stations with strong signals).
This will give you a Roaming setup where as your move around the house, your MacBook and MacBook Pro will automatically switch between the strongest base station, but because everyone is using the same SSID and Password, you do not loose your connections.
And each base station is using its own channel.
If you do have neighbors with strong signals, you can use something like "AP Grapher", iStumbler, KisMac, MacStumbler, etc... to see your neighbors, the chanels they are using, and the relative WiFi signal strength so you can choose the channels with the least interference.
If you can not run an ethernet cable between the Extreme and the Express, but you really like the idea of a Roaming network, then you could look into PowerLine ethernet adaptors for getting an ethernet equivalent between the 2 base stations.

Connecting a macbook pro to a verizon wireless network

how do i connect a macbook pro to a verizon wireless network? Wi-Fi connection automatically assigns an IP address and indicates that the Mac won't be able to connect to the internet. Two other MacBook Pros connect to the network without any problems. These Macs travel from home to school and back again and automatically reconnect when they are brought into the house.

I have read a few corporate IT policies and they are all PC-centric.
Unless your mac runs any windows tools such as Bootcamp Wine, Crossover, or a VM in parallels or VMware then your mac has no virus implications.
A few years ago word documents could be infected with macro viruses and although did not affect a mac a mac could pass them on. Up to date versions of Microsoft Word documents are not vulnerable to this flaw.
You could install ClamAV its a free anti virus app for the mac that would keep your IT dept happy.
Maybe I can find out what the WEP key is with a utility of some kind.
If you had a compatible usb wifi dongle and kismac you could crack their WEP key but this would be probably illegal in your country so I dont condone this activity but if you got written permission from your employer to give them a free penetration test, something that normally involves hiring a security company this would save them money and highlight the insecurity on their network.
Or use an Ethernet connection.

New Macbook Air over Old Macbook Pro 13" ?

Essentially I would be using it for the following:
Word Processing (ms office suite)
Video editing (primarily YT videos) via FCP X
Music editing / production via Garageband, Logic Pro, and Melodyne
Adobe Photoshop CS6 (willing to live without retina)
Probably light gaming
Coding ( I don't think this should be an issue, but want the ability to write apps for iOS)
Web surfing obviously
Building itunes library (currently less than 10gb)
Budget is $1190 or less. I'm definitely getting at least 8gb of ram (16gb if older mbp and falls in budget or 4gb if that would be sufficient for what I'm planning to do) in either scenario. But not sure if I should go for 128 - 256 ssd gb or a higher capactiy hd that usually is found in mbp's. Is the 1.3 ghz processor in the MBA enough for all that? Should I be looking at retina MBP's? A bit lost / clueless.
Looking to purchase today so opinions are very much appreciated and needed asap. Which would work best for my needs? Looking at 13" models. SD card slot would be great, but not necessary since I currently have a PC that has an SD card slot as well as cd/dvd drive.
Mainly interested in new or seller refurbished. Not used unless less than month old or something. Most likely not getting apple care.

Thats just a new Macbook Air 13" base model sold by BH. with 8gig of RAM
Get the $100 upgrade at purchase of the 8gig of RAM over the 4gig, to be certain, yes your choice is correct on the RAM.
Same Air I use currently.
Youll save sales tax buying from them of course, however I dont know what shipping costs would be from BH.
You shoudnt worry about SSD space, all large media needs to be (most of it at any rate) on an external HD, and you need same for backups / Time Machine .
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage.

Graphite Airport with new MacBooks and MacBook Pros

We have a mobile lab that is using some old dual USB iBooks with a graphite airport base station. The iBooks are connecting to the base station without a problem and getting on the internet. In the next room over, a teacher with a MacBook is trying to get online with the same base station. The MacBook can see the Airport, but it will not receive an IP via DHCP. I've taken my own MacBook Pro over to the base station as well and the airport icon blinks on and off for my own machine.
Is this a compatibility issue with the Intel based laptops with airport extreme trying to connect to an old graphite base station?

If you believe the problem might be in the network settings, I am happy to let you compare yours to my working ones.
When the MacBook is connected to the Graphite base station's network:
System Preferences > Network > Show: AirPort > TCP/IP
. Configure IPv4: Using DHCP
. IP Address: 10.0.1.x (provided by the base station as DHCP server)
. Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0 (provided by the base station as DHCP server)
. Router: 10.0.1.1 (provided by the base station as DHCP server)
. DHCP Client ID: (blank)
. DNS Servers: (blank)
. IPv6 Address: (string of hexadecimals)(self-assigned by MacBook)
System Preferences > Network > Show: AirPort > TCP/IP > Configure IPv6
. Configure IPv6: Automatically
. IPv6 Address: (string of hexadecimals)(assigned by MacBook)
. Router: (blank)
System Preferences > Network > Show: AirPort > PPPoE
. (everything unchecked)
System Preferences > Network > Show: AirPort > Proxies
. Configure Proxies: Manually
. Use Passive FTP Mode (PASV) checked
. (everything else unchecked)
System Preferences > Network > Show: Network Port Configurations
. AirPort is third on the list and checked.
. (FireWire and Ethernet are the first two.)
. (I currently have no FireWire or Ethernet connection.)
System Preferences > Network > Show: Network Status
. "AirPort is connected to the network (name). You are connected to the Internet via Airport."
In AirPort Admin Utility, version 4.2:
(Select base station) > Configure > Network
. Distribute IP Addresses (checked)
. AirPort client computers: Share a single IP address (using DHCP and NAT) (selected)
. (everything else unselected)
Please note that the AirPort Utility that comes with new MacBooks cannot configure a Graphite base station.
I can't think of anything else that would be relevant to whether the base station supplies an IP address to a wirelessly connected MacBook, but you are welcome to ask about other settings.
If the problem with the MacBook Pro is in the network settings and not a result of interference, the only thing I can think of is a possible DHCP conflict. Please make sure "Enable AirPort to Ethernet bridging" is turned off in AirPort Admin Utility.
Message was edited by: Larry R.

I'm planning on buying a MacBook Pro retina display

I was wondering if the baseline model with 2.4GHz dual-core Intel Core i5
Turbo Boost up to 2.9GHz
4GB 1600MHz memory
128GB PCIe-based flash storage1
Intel Iris Graphics
Built-in battery (9 hours)2
(13 inch $1299 version)
Is that storage enough for light web browsing, video watching, picture storage, Microsoft word, and general stuff. I'm not a hardcore gamer and will not be using any gaming, no video editing, no photoshop, I'm just a high school student using it for general things and homework. Is this suitable for me?

128gig SSD is always plenty storage for 98% of people
due to:
Your Solid State Drive and having enough space inside your Macbook Air & Pro
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage.

I doesn't have any space left on my MacBook Pro what can I do?

Hi can please get some help with this: my macbookpro retina doesn't have any disk space left and you can't upgrade it, what can I do?

your computer is NOT a storage device
clear cut case
You need to change the premise of your SSD use.
see here:
Your Solid State Drive and having enough space inside your Macbook Air & Pro
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage.

Macbook Pro and USB HUB

Let me start with this. My Macbook Pro (4 yrs old) has only 2 usb ports, so I went to buy a USB HUB. I bought Pentagram HUB USB 4P Passive [P 1224-3] , I plug it in. Small green light on it is on. Then I plug the printer, wireless mouse receiver and a WD Passport 160GB. None of the above are working. (The printer has it's own power cable). Where's the problem. Is it the HUB or something else?
Please help.

It's the hub. "Passive" is the key to your problem.
An "active" or "powered" hub prevents devices from drawing more power than the ports can deliver. Your big consumer is the WD passport drive. You're powering not only the electronics but also an electric motor.
If you mainly need the hub for working in a home or office environment, always go for the powered type. The passive hub may work for travel as long as you limit the number of devices.

Antec Cooling Pad for MacBook Pro

I bought the Antec Cooling pad with two fans for my MacBook pro, when it woudl charge and working it got pretty warm. I have to say, having the fans running under the MacBook dropped the temps significantly, I think. On average I would say around 10 degrees C is what I am seeing.
I"ve got iTunes, Word, Mail, Safari, Firefox all running with the temp showing 48 C on both cpu...give or take a degree flux.

Count me as another happy Antec Cooling Pad owner.
At home, where I primarily use the MBP for OSX, I have the iLap, which is a great but passive cooling stand for use on the table or my lap. Works fine, lowers temps by an average of 3-4C.
However at work I often have to run WinXP on my MBP. That puts it in full torch mode, for whatever reason. I bought an Antec Cooling pad for work, and I don't have the figures (as I don't have a temp monitor on the Windows side) but I would estimate that it's cooled it at least 10C, maybe more. Routinely the top of the MBP where my palms rest would get past warm, almost to hot, and the speaker grills would emit hot air, a lot hotter than when running OSX.
After I bought the Antec, and put 4 small rubber stoppers on it to elevate the MBP about 1/4" above the aluminum surface (which did seem to increase airflow), now the MBP running Windows feels just like when it does on idle running OSX.
Two thumbs up, and a hearty recommendation for anyone who has to use WinXP on the MBP or who constantly has the MBP on very high load.

MacBook Pro 15" can't find wireless preferred network after wake-up

Hello all
I've this problem with a MBP 15" (SnowLeopard 10.6.6): it doesn't find my preferred wi-fi network after waking-up from sleep.
Settings:
- on the MBP there's a preferred Location for this wi-fi connection
- wi-fi, DHCP and DNS managed by an AVM FritzBox 7050 (not visible SSID, MAC restriction, WPA2 pw)
- the channel I've set is different from other wi-fi around the building
The same network works perfectly using an old iBook G4 and an iMac, and other Windows PCs too.
Sometimes the MBP AirPort card just can't find the preferred Fritz network, while it does sees other wi-fi in the same building. Even using NetStumbler doesn't help.
I need to try to add manually "another" network several times before the MBP joins the Fritz wi-fi.
I already deleted and recreated the preferred network.
Is this a known software issue, or it can be a faulty AirPort card ?
thanx
Gabriel

Hello all,
after a lot of testing, using both the MacBook Pro and an old iBook G4 (the latter was working perfectly), and having on both machines some wi-fi sw such as KisMAC and iStumbler (while watching the wi-fi monitor on the access point consolle), I found that:
- the MacBook Pro is much more sensible to noise;
- it is better to use a channel with little noise, even if the are other devices on overlapping channels.
Eg: I found the channel #13 was free and there was only 1 other PC on #12, but there was a lot of noise. After trying all the channels, I decided to use #4 because there was little noise, even if there were many PCs around on #5/6.
So, don't care (as one should usually do) too much about not overlapping channels; instead, search for channels with little interferences.
I hope my solution can help you
G.

Windows 7 installation on macbook pro.

I have a Macbook pro 13" (late 2011 model) running Lion. Is it possible to install windows 7 STARTER on it? I need windows mostly for running compilers(for C++ and stuff) and cannot buy widows 7 home premium as i crossed my budget,, If it can't be done, can someone suggest a good c++ compiler (something like dev C++) for Lion..

you had to create FAT volume. Most use a USB card.
Your Apple Windows Support Software are drivers, not applications (there are .msi and setup.exe)
General Help:
Boot Camp 4.0, OS X Lion: Frequently asked question
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4818
http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/boot_camp_install-setup_10.7.pdf
create a Windows support software (drivers) CD or USB storage media
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4407
Advanced Network: Proxy Settings, I uncheck "Auto Proxy detection" and make sure you have the interface you use selected and none others.
"Go into System Preferences - Network - Advanced - Proxies Uncheck "Auto Proxy Discovery", click OK, Apply"
After Unchecking "Auto Proxy Discovery" I also had to Uncheck "Use Passive FTP Mode (PASV)" and then Restart Boot Camp Assistant.
odiggy's comment and tried restarting Boot Camp Assistant. That did the trick, even though the Auto Proxy Discovery checkbox ended up the same as it started. Windows support software is now downloading... if you're downloading to an external drive make sure there's a least 1 GB of free space because the WindowsSupport folder is around 700 MB and presumably will grow with time.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3223773?start=15

Slow, Sluggish internet connection on Macbook Pro

Just recently switched out my wireless router from a Dlink DI-524 to a Airport express and now my internet connection is ridiculously slow.
I go to a page and it sits for 5-20 seconds before the page begins to appear.
I have a macbook in the house as well and it does not share the same issue. Surfing is extremely fast on the macbook but for some reason on the macbook pro, it is sluggish lagging and simply annoying. Any thoughts....

Hello stewartc. Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
Does you MacBook Pro have this problem with other wireless networks or just yours? If all, then let's take a look at the AirPort settings on your MBP...
System Preferences > Network > Show > Network Port Configurations
o Verify that an AirPort option exists. If it does not, click "New" to create one.
o Verify that AirPort is "On" (checked)
o Verify that AirPort is at the top of the list. If it isn't, you can drag it to the top.
Systems Preferences > Network > Show > AirPort
AirPort tab
o By default, join: Automatic
TCP/IP tab
o Configure IPv4: Using DHCP
o Configure IPv6: Automatically (Note: You may also want to try the "Off" setting as some Posters in this Discussions thread noted problems with this being enabled.)
Proxies tab
o Configure Proxies: Manually
o Select a proxy server to configure: <All proxies should be unchecked unless you specifically require a proxy for Internet access.>
o Exclude simple hostnames (unchecked)
o Bypass proxy settings for these Hosts & Domains: <leave blank>
o Use Passive FTP Mode (PASV) (checked)
Also, take a look to see if you have DNS server IP addresses listed in your AirPort configuration.

KisMac passive on a macbook pro

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