Late 2006 24" imac - broken sata connector on logic board

How to fix broken sata port on logic board? It snapped off, apparently it wasn't soldered on very securely. Now I can only boot my machine with external usb drive. Help!

Hi Aaron
Bummer, I only see 4 options.
1. Continue to run from an External HD, FireWire 400 is faster than USB.
2. Find someone with the tools and skill to re-solder a connector back onto the logic board.
+(problem is, not to many folks can or will, because it's nearly impossibly)+
3. Buy a new Logic Board for $600+ > http://www.welovemacs.com/apim242inco26.html
+(problem is, that the iMac isn't worth $600)+
4. Buy a New or Refurbished iMac.
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shop_mac/family/imac?mco=MTcyMTgwNTQ
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/specialdeals/mac?mco=OTY2ODY3Nw
Personally I'd put my money on #4, instead of spending another dime on a 4 year old machine that also needs a Graphic's Chip and who knows what else.
Dennis

Similar Messages

Broken SATA cable or logic board?

Hi.
Today I received my replaced intel 520 series harddisk (I sent one in, because I thought it was dead).
Today, this new SSD didn't show up in disk utilities, although it shows up on another laptop (booting into linux dvd).
I've placed the new SSD in the maindrive of my MacBook Pro 13" early 2011, and i've placed my old HDD in an obtibay in the superdrive's place. The HDD works fine, and i've installed the system onto there, since i can't use my SSD.
Could this be a dead SSD (remember, it showed in Linux), a dead SATA-cable (which i could fix), or a dead logic board connector (which i don't have the balls to fix)?
Regards, Magnus.

No the SSD is more then like OK. the problem is the Optical bay on your model Mac doesn't support the SATA 3 specs, 6GBs. Even if it says it does in the Specifications Apple has limited it. your not the only person that has had problems getting a SATA 3 SSD to work in the optical bay of a Mac notebook.
But Yes the main bay cable is bad. Once you replace that cable the SSD should work in the main bay without problem.
Check with Intel for an updated firmware for that SSD. Problem with that is I don't think they have a way to update it on a Mac. You would need a Windows PC as the firmware is included in the Intel SSD Toolbox program.

Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia 7300

Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia GeForce 7300 GT
I've been suffering with screen tearing, strange screen artifacts, etc. followed by totally unresponsive freezing machine. This problem has been happening to varying degrees for about 9 months.
Initially, I was able to mitigate the problem with smcFanControl. Adjusting the fan speeds up helped keep the machine cool and prevent most of the problems. Recently, we had a spell of hot weather and the fans just couldn't keep up. If you're using smcFanControl, the only fan speed that will really make a difference is the CPU. The HDD and ODD fans are no where near where you need to be.
Also, I noticed the machine was LOADED with dust when I took it apart, including the heat sink fins for the graphics card. If you have time you may want to try a thorough cleaning with compressed air before replacing the card. You just need to get through step 11 below to access what needs to be cleaned.
Based on reading here and elsewhere, I decided to replace the graphics card. To give back to the community, I wanted to layout the procedure here.
Where to buy the card.
I had a tough time finding the right card. I did exhaustive web searches using every combination of Nvidia 7300 GT, etc. You really need to search by the Apple part number. The Apple part number for the 7300 is 661-4179, for the 7600 is 661-4180. I found it at We Love Macs and at dv warehouse. I paid $248 for the 7600 card. BE CAREFUL buying a "refurbished" card. At We Love Macs, "refurbished" means "pulled from a working machine." Could be a machine with as much mileage as yours and prone to the same failures as yours.
The card is an MXM style card (generally used in laptops), with a giant heat sink and heat pipe assembly. The card can be separated from the heat assembly. If I had time, I would have tried a generic, cheaper, MXM style card.
Dispelling some myths.
People here and elsewhere have said that no Intel iMac graphics card can be replaced, that they're wedded to the logic board. The one on this model can be replaced, I've done it. Also, some have said you can't put a 256MB, 7600 GT in a machine that originally had a 128MB, 7300 GT. Also, not true. That's what I did to my machine and it is working fine.
So here's the step-by-step on my take apart and replacement. This is just one user helping out others, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. This takes about 1 1/2 hours to take apart and 2 to put back together.
1) Install the iStat widget and monitor the temperatures for a few days and record the temperatures (to be able to verify that you've completed the repair correctly later)
2) Make a complete backup of any internal drives and make sure the backup will be bootable (use Carbon Copy Cloner)
3) Use static safeguards, like an anti-static wrist strap.
4) Get a pen a stack of paper envelopes to separate and label the pieces you remove.
5) You'll need a #2 Phillips and #6, 8, 10 Torx. Most of the screws at T-8. There are 8 T-8s holding in the LCD. They are about 1 1/4" down. You'll need a long, skinny T-8 to get to them.
6) Unplug the machine and place it on it's back on a large white sheet of paper.
7) Remove RAM door, #2 Phillips x 2.
8) Remove RAM.
9) Remove 4 T-8s along bottom.
10) Remove large rectangular plastic bezel surrounding the whole machine, tilt up being careful not to stress iSight cables. You'll need to stretch it around the RAM ejection tabs.
11) Detach two iSight cables.
12) Peel up black stickers at lower corners of speakers.
13) Remove LCD screws, T-8 x 8. You'll probably drop a few, they're pretty easy to retrieve.
14) Remove two retaining screws on right hand LCD cable. T-6 x2 Unplug cable.
15) Remove LCD inverter cable, left.
Start unplugging everything connected to the logic board.
16) Unplug cable coming from right speaker. Note cable routing, it is the only one that's a little tricky. Also, note that the left one plugs in on the right and the right one plugs in on the left.
17) Remove right speaker. T-10 Note: left and right speaker screws are different lengths.
18) Unplug ODD blower cable.
19) Unplug ODD temp cable and lift up tape.
20) Unplug HDD blower cable.
21) Unplug the HDD temp cable.
22) Unplug the camera & mic cable.
23) Unscrew the clamp securing the airport card (has two antenna cables going to it, labeled PCIE), T-6 x 2
24) Unplug SATA cable.
25) Unplug Power cable, thick black plastic harness, socket.
26) Unplug ambient temp cable.
27) Unscrew the bluetooth card, T-6 x2.
28) Unplug CPU blower cable.
29) Unplug power button cable, 2 conductor, tiny cable, bottom left.
30) Unscrew left speaker, T-10, unplug from logic board, but just leave dangling, no need to remove cable completely.
31) Remove logic board screws. Be careful to segregate them, they have different lengths and different thread pitches and thread types. Some are machine threads going into metal, some are coarse threads going into plastic.
31a) Heat sink frame to case T-8 x 2
31b) Logic board to case T-8 x 3
31c) Screws at heat sink from arrows T-8 x 3
31d) Logic board at bottom near RAM slot T-8 x 2
32) Unplug ODD ribbon cable, be extremely careful. Release plastic tabs on each side to remove. Be sure it is fully and evenly seated when you put it back later.
33) Remove logic board with attached graphics card.
34) Unplug graphics card heat sink sensor cable at logic board end.
35) Remove graphics card screws 2 x T-6
36) Remove single screw from small L-bracket on heat sink 1 x T-6
Replace graphics card.
Reverse steps, put everything back together. Be careful not to pinch any cables when you put the logic board back in. When you put the LCD back in, if you can't get the screws to stick to the driver, use some glue stick from your kid's art supplies.
Test everything. You've disconnected every cable in the system.
I torture tested the machine with a space heater on it, 5 different videos of different formats playing at the same time. No problems.
I took a lot of pictures inside the machine. As soon as I figure out a good place to post them, I'll try to add a link here.
Good luck

Greetings!
I know this is in response to your post from over 2 years ago, but I was searching on Apple's site for the max RAM I can upgrade our refurbed iMac too and it brought up this post.
Oddly enough, I've been experiencing the same screen issues and locking up on our iMac as well. I was concerned it was a bad memory module, but now I'm thinking it's the same issue you found.
Because I bought this some 2+ years ago refurbed from Apple, I'm not surprised that could be the actual problem.
I've pulled this thing apart once to replace the hard-drive which crashed about a year ago, so I'm not totally new at opening it up, but this process you mention sounds pretty intense...just wanted to get your second take on it based on what I've done thus far.
Thanks again for posting this...it was an eye-opener as to what might actually be causing our issues with our trusted Mac!
Joshua

My late 2006 20" iMac needs some TLC?

I recently added 2GB of memory after talking to Apple support as a way of speeding up my late 2006 20" iMac. Unfortunately, that was NOT the solution. So here's my problem: I can do very little, from scrolling to even moving the mouse cursor without the rainbow wheel turning.......and turning, and turning. In short, I am being held captive by a all-but-functionless computer.
I've run MacKeeper, TechTool device and MacScan all with the hopes of speeding my iMac up, but to no avail. And there is still a good deal of space left on my Hard Drive. Can anyone offer some possible solutions? I'd like to conquer this problem before moving on to a new iMac.

First you need to uninstall MacKeeper: How to Remove MacKeeper. Uninstall MacScan and TechTool. See the following:
Things You Can Do To Keep Your Computer From Slowing Down
If your computer seems to be running slower here are some things you can do:
Boot into Safe Mode then repair your hard drive and permissions:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions Pre-Lion
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Repair the Hard Drive - Lion
Boot from your Lion Recovery HD. When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Restart your computer normally and see if this has helped any. Next do some maintenance:
Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
For situations Disk Utility cannot handle the best third-party utility is Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible.
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger. These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or Lion and should not be installed.
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive. As for virus protection there are few if any such animals affecting OS X. You can protect the computer easily using the freeware Open Source virus protection software ClamXAV. Personally I would avoid most commercial anti-virus software because of their potential for causing problems. For more about malware see Macintosh Virus Guide.
I would also recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX 2.4.3, or Cocktail 5.1.1 that you can use for periodic maintenance such as removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc.
For emergency repairs install the freeware utility Applejack. If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line. Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. There is no confirmation that this version also works with Lion.
When you install any new system software or updates be sure to repair the hard drive and permissions beforehand.
Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Carbon Copy Cloner
2. Data Backup
3. Deja Vu
4. SuperDuper!
5. SyncTwoFolders
6. Synk Pro
7. Synk Standard
8. Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
Additional suggestions will be found in Mac maintenance Quick Assist.
Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.
Additional Hints
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
Add more RAM. If your computer has less than 2 GBs of RAM and you are using OS X Leopard or later, then you can do with more RAM. Snow Leopard and Lion work much better with 4 GBs of RAM than their system minimums. The more concurrent applications you tend to use the more RAM you should have.
Always maintain at least 15 GBs or 10% of your hard drive's capacity as free space, whichever is greater. OS X is frequently accessing your hard drive, so providing adequate free space will keep things from slowing down.
Check for applications that may be hogging the CPU:
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the Processes dropdown menu. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time, then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Often this problem occurs because of a corrupted cache or preferences file or an attempt to write to a corrupted log file.

IMac display connector on logic board

Does anyone know the part number or part description for the connector on the logic board that connects to the display (tdms) cable on an iMac G4? On the logic board, where the old one was, is the notation "j10". The person I got this iMac from tried upgrading the hard drive and accidentally ripped the connector off because they didn't unclip the tdms cable from the drive first.
I figure soldering a new connector on should be a pretty easy fix, but I'm not sure what part to order. I know a few places that I could probably order it from, once I know what I'm ordering.

Seems to me a similar question has appeared in these boards, and
there are a few people who are regulars, that may know the answer.
Been awhile since I've seen the posts regarding this topic, so I can't
just put a link to the correct discussion at this time. Maybe the post
could appear as part of a search; such a dragnet approach may be
daunting and the yield well beyond the scope of your needs.
A slightly different discussion than I recall, but near the neighborhood:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=9096347
Is there a close-up picture here of the connector in question?
http://www.mrtotes.co.uk/mrtotes/iMac%20Flat%20Panel.html
You may be able to contact this source via his Discussions
Profile and ask more indepth about your connector questions.
Good luck & happy computing!
{PS: I have an inop third iMac G4 1.25 17" model sitting in the
closet on the floor, but have not gotten time to look into it.}

Will an iMac 1.25GHz G4 20" logic board fit in a 17" base?

I have an opportunity to get an iMac 20" G4 1.25GHz logic board that has USB 2.0. The tech specs say that the 17 & 20 are both 10.6" in diameter and they look to have the same I/O connectors. Does anyone know if the 20" will fit in the 17" housing?

I have an opportunity to get an iMac 20" G4 1.25GHz logic board that has USB 2.0. The tech specs say that the 17 & 20 are both 10.6" in diameter and they look to have the same I/O connectors. Does anyone know if the 20" will fit in the 17" housing?

Help! I have had my iMac G5 fitted with new Logic Board but it doesn't work

Help! I have had my iMac G5 fitted with new Logic Board but it doesn't work
I have just had my iMac G5 First Gen 1.8Ghz fitted with a new Logic Board under the Apple Repair Extension Programme for iMacs.
I got the iMac home from the repairers and switched it on and everything was working fine for about 2 hours and then all of a sudden the Error Page came up on the Screen (with a big On/Off Switch Logo) and it said I had to shut down.
So I shut it down waited a few minutes and then tried to re-boot it but nothing happened. All that happended was the Power Light in the Right hand corner came on..but nothing else....
Help! Any ideas what to do please?

If you have an external firewire drive (it has to be firewire, USB won't boot on a Rev A), plug it in to the firewire port and turn it on, then boot your iMac and see if it shows on the screen.
Have you tried to hit the eject (up arrow, the last button on the top row of the keyboard) button when you boot, perhaps the repairers left a disc in the drive? Then try and put your install disc in.
Miriam

I need to replace my late 2006 20" imac hard drive

here's what i have
VIN,IMAC (20-INCH LATE 2006)
running leopard 10.5.8
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: iMac
Model Identifier:    iMac5,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2.16 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 4 MB
Memory: 3 GB
Bus Speed:    667 MHz
Boot ROM Version: IM51.0090.B09
SMC Version (system): 1.9f4
Serial Number (system): W8******VUV
WDC WD2500JS-40TGB0:
Capacity: 232.89 GB
Model:    WDC WD2500JS-40TGB0
Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Failing
Volumes: Macintosh HD:
Capacity: 232.57 GB
Available: 106.04 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Journaled HFS+
BSD Name:    disk0s2
disk utility shows this:
my mac is still running like a champ but as the pictures above show it's time
i've found a lot of people with the same question i have on this site with answers but most links that people suggest are broken or 2 of the hard drives they've recommended are discontiued
i've got a frys electronics and best buy near by or internet if that's the best way to go about it
what exactly do i need to look for when i'm at a store or online?
what size hard drive, any? 250GB, 500GB, 750GB, 1TB
3.5" SATA
7200RPM
does cache matter?
anything else?
people's responses to: Need to replace my late 2006 imac hard drive - what should i be looking for to replace it?
1. You can use any 3.5" Sata drive, WD or Seagate would be good choices.
2. Do not use "green" drives like the WD Blue series. WD Black are fine as are Seagates.
3. The 2T green will work fine in the Intel iMac's. I always suggest using the quieter and cooler running Blue's or Green's in the iMac's.
4. Personally I have upgraded the Hard Drive in several Early Core Duo's using both 320GB and 500GB WD Cavair Blue's.
5. WD Caviar Blue or WD Caviar Green, they run cooler and quieter than the WD Black or Seagate's.
6. I'm very happy with the WD Caviar Blue that replaced my factory installed 160GB Seagate HD a few months ago.
i've found some good DIY tutorials for install
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShY8zuT-wPg&feature=player_embedded
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+20-Inch+EMC+2105+and+2118+Hard+Drive+Repl acement/1092/1
any help will be appreciated,
sean k
<Edited by Host>

thanks for the quick reply kappy,
i plan to purchase a new imac when they are actually shipped, in stores, and i know all my handicap assisted devises will work on it
you say "Do not buy a drive designed for SATA 3 6 Gb/s interfaces as some may not work on the controller in your iMac"
at frys it breaks the groups like this:
Interface (32)
SATA/300 (17)
SATA/600 (9)
PATA/100 (6)
could you take a look at this link to frys and recommend a hard drive
http://www.frys.com/search?cat=-69564&pType=pDisplay&fq=100413%203.5-100415%2072 00
or bestbuy internal hard drives
like you said it's got a limited life and just need something to get by till the new imacs arrive

Need Info to repair broken power switch connector on logic board

Hi folks,
I had some bad luck this week. The power switch connector broke off my daughter's Ibook logic board during a HD upgrade attempt. Unfortunately, it pulled enough of the etch that I can't determine where the connections use to go.
I would like to salvage the board. So, if anyone has access to a schematic for the G3 Ibook, 14" 900Mz logic board, I would appreciate some info about the circuit. Specifically, to what components does the switch connect. I already identified one side is grounded and the other side is pulled up to 3V through a 1K resistor, but that etch also went somewhere else. I suppose the gate of a FET transistor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Perhaps someone with a dead logic board could trace the circuit with an ohm meter.
Regards,
Spencer

Hi spencer,
Apple doesn't make circuit diagrams available, sorry. I've done or had done component level repairs of iBook logic boards before, usually to re-attach connectors which have come off, but unlike yours, these ones have all come off leaving the trace on the board.
The fact the traces have come off isn't good, as you can probably tell. It's also a 4 layer board, so where the vias go is important. I have a couple of dead logic boards from 500,600 and 700mhz iBooks. The 14 inch logic boards are essentially the same as the 12 inch ones. These pictures are of the area of a 700mhz logic board.
http://theducks.org/pictures/ibook-logic-board-top.JPG
http://theducks.org/pictures/ibook-logic-board-bottom.JPG
Hope it helps.

1st Generation iMac G5 with new main logic board but now no Bluetooth?

Greetings:
As an owner of a 1st generation iMac, I can finally report that my iMacG G5 is now working fine since the main logic board has been replaced because of bad capacitors.
A NEW problem has been created. My internal bluetooth no longer works and is not visible in the hardware profile. I suspect that the Apple repair center may have removed my module or that it was attached to the old main logic board. On PC's running MS Windows (XP), there is a "hardware detect" routine.
QUESTION: Can anyone tell me if the internal module is visible by taking the cover off? I cannot seem to find a photo of where or how the module is attached. I can see my Airport module. Regardless, the Apple repair center said to simply bring it back in and they would fix the problem. They indicated that it was a simple software fix. After trying many different software techniques, I still believe they somehow forgot that my computer had BT and it went back with my old logic board.
Thanks in Advance,
Jeff

We discovered the problem. After taking my iMac G5 back to the Apple service center, I got to observe the technician remove my G5 cover and bluetooth module.
The problem was due to the fact that the initial technician apparently did not realize he/she broke off the very small connecting pins on the module when he/she removed it from the original main logic board with the bad capacitors. They simply screwed it on the main logic board. They order a new BT module to replace the broken one.
FYI: It is very easy to install the BT module on the main logic board as I observed. No soldering, etc.. The location is directly above the power supply but below the airport card. It is about the size of a postage stamp and is in clear view withou removing any parts.
Thanks to All....Miriam...
Jeff

2006 Mac Pro corrupting the disk - possible logic board problem?

Hi there.
I bought a faulty MP (2006) that wouldn't install an OSX. It would install to a point and then fail or install fully then not boot. Apparently this happened shortly after a 10.5.8 update failed mid way. The seller told me how it seemed to corrupt hard disks placed into it. How he diagnosed this I don't know.
I bought it and did a fresh 10.6 install on a formatted disk in my other 2006 mac pro. Then swapped the disk into the faulty mac pro. Everything seemed fine. Booted up and seemed to work fine.
Upon trying to install itunes 9 I had all sorts of issues (which I've read about). Upon doing a disk check in disk utility it seems the disk has loads of errors, imcomplete nodes/trees etc. Repairing the disk isn't working (in the OS as well as booting from the DVD).
Has anyone encountered anything like this? It seems the disk is getting corrupted by something or other. Hardware tests check out fine.
Could this be a problem on the Logic board?
Thanks

One thing I did notice that I thought was odd was on the grey boot screen a small empty progress bar appears for a second or two and then vanishes. Sure this is the same progress bar that appears on an efi update etc.... not sure it's connected

Erase Imac g5 ALS With bad Logic Board?

I'm finally getting around to selling my old 20" Imac Power PC 2.0Ghz Ambient Light sensor. I'd like to do an erase, however I'm afraid it won't stay on through the process. It runs for 10-20 minutes and then dies. Sometimes I get over an hours use. I'm guessing the logic board is bad, from what I've read.
Can I boot in target mode and erase it with my new iMac? If I do that, will it erase the OS or is there an option where I can keep the OS on there, but erase everything else?
If I try to use the install CD to do a full reset and erase and my imac crashes during, is that bad?
I've already manually deleted all of my music, videos, pictures and installed applications, but I'm not sure if my credit card info was stored on it. Its been a while since I've used it.
Thanks
J

You can use Target Disk mode and then Disk Utility to erase it and then install an OS, but if it won't stay on for very long, it might not stay on in TDM either. Give it a try from your install disc, do a simple erase, then reinstall the OS.
Please post back with results,

Mac Pro - broken piece off of Logic board

Hello. Was arm wrestling a PCIe slot cover off so I could install a Blackmagic card. A small silver piece with purple on it and two holes in the bottom broke off of the Logic board. It is (was) located very close to the PCI slot opening and there were two of them. The piece has the following letters on it in four rows:
921
SEPC
100
16
Wondering what this is and if anyone else has done this to their machine. Also wondering if this part can be reattached or am I looking at a worst case scenario.
Thanks in advance.
d

Those "little can" capacitors are called electrolytic capacitors, because the little can is filled with electrolyte (an ion-rich fluid) that makes it all work. They are more expensive than solid capacitors, so they are only used where needed and generally cover a group of components, not just one little part nearby.
Many electrolytic capacitors are in strategic places where they help stabilize power supplies. Those near the PCIe slots would be expected to stabilize power supplied to the PCIe slots. A different one would be needed for each Voltage supplied. I know PCIe slots use 5 Volts, 3-ish Volts, and possibly a lower one like 1.2 Volts. 28 Volts and 12 Volts may also be needed.
The general rule is that a larger physical size, a higher Voltage, and a Higher heat range can almost always be substituted with impunity. Leads should be kept as short as practical, and polarity must be followed or the part may fail prematurely.

Imac late 2006 has two big white bars on the screen.

Hello,
I have a late 2006 intel imac and it also has the apparently extremely common vertical white bars on the screen.
They have the same size, about a twelveth of the whole screen, and are spaced by a well functioning bar of exactly the same size. So i thought this could be a problem with the connectors, and i wondered, is there any connector inside the imac that has 12 pins?
P.S.: I'm trying to fix this myself because i took it to an apple authorized repair center (which is the closest we have in Portugal to a real Apple repair center), and they said it would be 550€, a ridiculous amount of money, since the screen costs something like 150€, and they ended up charging me 50€ just for letting it stay the night since they didn't even open it.
I have been an extremely loyal customer and am extremely disappointed in Apple for not replacing this screens for free, since it's clearly a manufacturing problem.

You are just better off saving up your money to buy a new iMac.
Late 2006 iMac graphics problem, system freezes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3j-tZ_v1aCc <<< click here.

IMac late 2006 no wifi detected

I am new to the Mac world other than the basics and I came across a late 2006 20" iMac last week. After installing the only OS I had which is Snow Leopard, I found everything works great on this system except the original wifi card it came with which is after researching a bcm94321 card. Airport utility does not detect it and I have a few other items Ive tried installing but airport utility doesnt detect them either... Any help would be appreciated as I am clueless on how to even troubleshoot this other than just replacing the card. Thanks in advance.
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Hardware repairs are way out of our league around here as most Mac's are not user servicable.
Try iFixit and/or OtherWorld Computing.

Late 2006 24" imac - broken sata connector on logic board

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