LCD Monitor Calibration Needed
I just purchased a 3rd party 19" LCD monitor, and noticed the the thing is freaking bright!
I need to calibrate this thing before it melts my eyes. I'm looking for either a tutorial on how to properly do this, or a program that will help me with this.
Any help is greatly appricated. Thanks!
--alan
if you've got the money for something worthwhile, the sypder2pro is an excellent monitor calibration tool. it calibrates crt's, lcd's and projectors. it actually allows me to use my 23" cinema display by removing most of the "pink" that the screen evolved to right after it went off of warranty, making it the most overpriced lemon i ever bought ($1799 before taxes).
Similar Messages
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There is an vast amount of information on this topic, that topic being LCD monitor calibration. Some LCD have presets, theatre, games, etc. I want to calibrate my LCD so that if someone else is viewing my work on their monitor and they complain it is too light or to dark, I can say it is your monitor. One of my LCD has two presets that are of interest 'standard' & 'sRGB' my other LCD doesn't have any presets. What is the best or near best calibration I can manually set both monitors too, if this is even possible on LCD, I hope it is, atleast I hope they have matured from the past.
I get into trouble with everyone when I suggest using a gamma calibration target and using on-monitor and video card controls to get the monitor calibration close to 2.2 gamma, so I probably shouldn't do it. But hey, it's not absolutely necessary to spend money to get closer to your goal. It really boils down to how good is good enough for you. Better color accuracy than what you have now could be a stepping stone.
One approach - and I'm not saying it's the best one, but it'll get you closer to your goal without spending money - is to set your monitor to the sRGB preset, set your monitor profile to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 in Windows, then adjust the video driver controls so that the gradients in this target, when displayed at 100% zoom, appear like neutral gray gradients.
This is what you want it to look like:
I wish I could say it's simple to get it to look like this, but unfortunately it's not. However, if you have the ability to set gamma, contrast, brightness for each of the three color channels in your video drivers (ATI Catalyst drivers offer this ability), then with a little elbow grease it is possible.
-Noel -
LCD Monitor Calibration and FCS2
What preset are people using to calibrate FCS2 and their LCD monitor (I'm not talking about the external TV monitor). I've read a suggestion that "NTSC 1953" was the preset to use with FCS2, but it looks too dark on my monitor.
Thanks,
mI use the pathetic Colorsync utility to calibrate my Dell and Viewsonic monitors and then save profiles. Unless you're doing print work in Illustrator or Photoshop or perhaps web-destined work in FCP, calibrating your monitor for video work is completely irrelevant and useless. For video work, it's essential you use an NTSC/ATSC device and not your computer monitor.
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What target settings for LCD monitor calibration?
I have recently installed Spectraview II to calibrate my NEC LCD 2180WG monitor but have some doubts on which target settings to use as there are different opinions on color temp, gamma and intensity choices.
I use my system purely for photo post-processing and printing on color calibrated printers. I use AdobeRGB color space and have no interest for processing images for web.
- What color temp do you use/recommend? D50, D65 or something in between? I see that some folks use D65 and others swear by D50.
- What about Gamma choice 1.8, 2.2 or L* ? Same here, no common choice here too.
- Lastly what about intensity (brightness in terms of cd/mm2)?
NEC recommends Target Settings for Printing, which are D50, 1.8 gamma and Max. Intensity, but I'm not sure.
I'd appreciate if you could recommend correct settings for my type of work.
Thank YouCharles,
I arrived at 5100K by measuring a few of my favorite printing papers with my spectrophotometer. This was a good compromise (most measured between about 4800K and 5300K). I confirmed the results by trying various calibrations them comparing the monitor to prints (using custom printer profiles). Anywhere near 5000K looked great, but 5100K was the best match of the bunch. I used 5000K lighting for viewing (Solux and Philips light sources).
Luminance settings were done in a similar fashion. First I compared a ppure white Photoshop document (on the monitor) to the intensity of a sheet of white printing paper displayed under my viewing light. With the monitor luminance set to the 85 cd/m2 range, the two documents look about the same brightness of white. I try to view my prints under "moderate" light levels rahter than ultra bright levels, since I know they won't be lit by spot or flood lights when placed on a wall. If you do have spots on your hung prints, there is a case to use a higher luminance level on your monitor. Anyway, on many LCDs, if you set the luminance too high, your blacks can start to look a little washed out. When set to about 85 cd, my tonal range in the print is a great match to my monitor. If I have the monitor luminance set to 100 or higher, I find that my prints look dark and muddy in comparison (unless viewed under unrealistically bright lights). So, a lot of trial and error, plus some initial brightness comparisons.
Gamma is a tougher one. I have a special viewing target that I bring up in Photoshop (Lab based to prevent any possible conversions). When viewed in Photoshop at full magnification, it helps me to set the gamma, which affects mostly the midtone density. On my LCD, I found )again by trial and error) that 2.0 gave me the best tonal distribution. My old CRT worked best at 1.8 gamma, and other LCDs sometimes work best at other gamma settings, such as 2.2.
The above settings work beautifully given my equipment, my viewing levels, ambient working conditions, etc. My monitor to print match is excellent from both a color and tonal range standpoint. Hope that helps clarify my thinking and approach.
Lou -
What connects do I need to hook up a 2nd LCD monitor to my p7-1380t HP computer?
My current monitor is a Samsung Starlight LCD monitor hooked up to my p7--1380t (approx 23 inches). I want to set up a 2nd monitor which is a DELL LCD (unable to find monitor model #).
Can you advise me which ports to use on the back of my computer and which cable type I should get for the Dell monitor?Okrafarmboy, welcome to the forum.
We don't have information on Dell monitors. However, I believe that it will be either VGA or DVI (D or I). It depends on the age of the monitor.
Here is a guide to help you connect the two monitors to the computer.
Please click "KUDOS" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
++++++++++++++++++
**Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
I am not an HP employee. -
"monitor calibration software" "LCD color management and conversion" is defective.
My photoshop is not working and A message pops up saying to rerun monitor calibration software. How do I do this?
Which calibration tool are you using? With my Spyder4Elite it's just about running a recalibration with its software...
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Has anyone had any luck with the Dell line of LCD monitors. I need to purchase two for a professional graphic design setup.
Thanks,
Kellysfaulk wrote:
I have been using the new Dell 24" for two weeks so I'm pretty sure it's on sale
The new Dell 2408wfp is a beautiful monitor with the exception of an over saturation of the red colors. I calibrated it today with a eye-one display2 and it is much better but the reds are still a little more neon bright then I would like. I hope Dell does a firmware revision that will correct it.
"On sale" as to less than $699.
Firmware upgrade is not user installable. You'll need to get a new monitor. -
LCD monitor profiling: getting started
I have a cheap LCD monitor (Gem brand) I bought a year or so ago. It works okay for me but i've never calibrated and profiled it. I'd like to finally invest in a calibrator. I'm a click away from ordering the X-Rite EODIS2 Eye-One Display 2 as my quick research (thanks to this forum) says that's a fine choice.
Once I receive it I will take a serious look at my ambient light conditions and try to become comfortable living with less natural light in my workspace. I will also consider constructing a monitor hood.
Meanwhile I'll keep reading Real World Color Management.
Does it sound like i'm on the right track? Any advice / caveats at this stage welcome. Otherwise I'm sure you'll be hearing from me. :) Many thanks.The saga continues...
I've been watching Chris Murphy's lynda.com 'Color Management Essential Training' videos, which are very good but i'm still not sure I'm doing this properly. Here's the story:
He outlines a test to determine whether your LCD display's backlight is controlled via the Brightness or Contrast on-screen control: fill a new Photoshop file with black, and adjust each control independently to determine which shows a visible change in the solid black. After resetting my monitor to defaults, and trying this, it was obvious that the Contrast control was linked to the backlight.
Murphy then demonstrates profiling, using the same Eye-One Match software. He skips the 'Set the Contrast' portion in the software, as that relies on adjusting the Contrast control to adjust backlight. I did do it, because my monitor backlight does appear to be controlled by Contrast.
Next is the 'Set the White Point' portion, which involves adjusting RGB values separately. Chris says it's not a good idea for non-high-end LCDs -- that it's better for white point adjustment to occur in the video card LUT. So he skips that portion, and -- although my monitor does allow such independent adjustment -- i skip it as well.
Then it's 'Set the Luminance', where we use the Brightness control. In Chris' case he's adjusting the backlight. In my case, uh, I dunno what I'm adjusting exactly. Anyway, I can't get the current marker all the way down to the target value. With Brightness at 0, it's slightly above my target 90. (I wonder if this means my monitor is burning out, or it's an indicator I should have done the RBG adjustment stage?) But Chris encourages staying slightly above the target so there's a little room to come down later. I settle at 92.6.
Then calibration, correction curve, RGB->XYZ, and a display profile is born!
I learned from Chris that Eye-One Match includes a Monitor Validator feature. I do it and find my DE2000 is 2.56! Seems quite high. (Chris' was 0.78.) Does it mean my monitor just sucks, or is it an acceptable value, or is there something I need to adjust?
In other news, blinds are more closed (except for one window -- this room has lots of 'em), room is darker, I shall start wearing black. :)
Thanks for any perspective on any of this. -
Has anyone used the Acer X223Wbd 22" Wide LCD Monitor with their MBP?
Good afternoon,
I'm currently thinking about purchasing the 22" Wide Acer LCD monitor to hook up to my MBP, so I can have a bigger screen to render graphics and play games on. I was wondering if there is anyone else, who has experience with this product, that can give me their opinion about it. My financial budget is about $200.00, so I need to find the best monitor for my buck. I have read some good reviews on it, but I'm not sure if those individuals had used it with a MBP. I would appreciate any useful information that anyone can give me. Thank you.
AMMOCANThanks J, that's a nice find. I've tried it and it seems to be working seamlessly. As you said, I cannot confirm any multi-touch support and the price that they are asking is certainly not in the private end-user range. Fortunately, according to the terms of use for the evaluation, you only need to calibrate after every 100 touches to keep the driver working indefinitely.
Terms of Use:
TERMS OF USAGE
This software is supplied for evaluation and test purposes only. For use in production systems, driver licenses are required. Please note that click emulation will cease after 100 touches and a calibration or reboot is needed to gain another 100 touches.
This would appear to be a nice work around until acer decides to distribute a Mac driver or someone develops a cheaper alternative. -
A tiny bit OT: Recommendations for Dual Monitor Calibration?
I've owned my little Huey Pro since it was a mere Huey jnr. (You had to give Pantone money and they magiced into a Pro) It’s given decent service for the price (not very much) but has never been particularly flash calibrating a second monitor. Today I upgraded my 19 inch 4:3 Philips with a 24inch 1920x1200 LG, and while the Huey still does a decent job with my 30inch Dell main screen, the is LG miles out!
It turns out to be a known problem, and mine is now too bad to live with. So what do y’all use that can handle multiple screens, and wouldn’t need me to take out a mortgage to buy?All good stuff 21, but when it has finished doing all that foreign language stuff, will it calibrate my computer screens?
But seriously, thanks for the info. I don't what video LUT is, and I back off double quick when I see Eizo mentioned:
www.bornrich.com/eizo-debut-35000-lcd-monitor-multiple-screens.html
The i1 is being sold for NZ$500 here, and since Christmas I have put >NZ$1600 into sorting my computer out, and I'd prefer to delay this a month or so. Fortunately I have no video projects on the go, so the second monitor is not colour critical right now.
What about the Color Munki Smile? Keith Cooper over on Northlight was more or less positive about it, and he is someone I trust.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/reviews/profiling/colormunki_smile.html
I don't do a lot of printing, and when I do I use Canon's Easy Photo Print Pro, because it always gets it right without and hassle. Perhaps I'll go ask on the PremPro Hardware forum, and on DVInfo, because video is probably the most colour critical use of that second screen.
Thanks for you help. -
New monitor/calibration; now colors won't display correctly in ACR and Elements
Just got a new ASUS LCD monitor, and calibrated it with the Spyder 3 Express.
Now when I open a .CR2 file using Elements to edit the RAW image, the color is displayed as yellowy-gray and dull. It looks the same when I pull it into Elements 7, unless I remove all color management (which, if I save the image, actually then renders the image colors neon and oversaturated with lots of pink and red tones).
I also use Lightroom 3 and I am having the same problem there. Upon import of either an edited Jpeg or a .CR2 RAW file, the color in Lightroom is displayed as dull, grayish yellowy-green.
If I export and view the very same image in GIMP, Picasa or on the web, as long as the colorspace is intact (sRGB), the color is accurate. Not so in Elements or Lightroom.
If you have experience with this problem is it the monitor, the calibration, or Elements and Lightroom. I am beyond frustrated and need to see my colors properly. I have not had this problem before.I don't use Spyder to calibrate my monitor; instead, I use the software and tool that X-Rite makes and it came with my NEC wide-gamut monitor. I suspect that the tools are similar.
First, make certain that you're using your Spyder spectrometer and the accompanying software correctly. Although I consider myself relatively computer saavy, I find that I have to follow the instructions carefully.
Then, calibrate your monitor so that the colors and brightness the monitor displays are correct for your printer setup. In my case, the tool uses ICC color standards to set the colors. And, I tell it I want the monitor's brightness to be 90 candelas per square meter (cd/m2), which is about the same brightness as a blank white piece of photo paper. With the monitor brightness set at 90 cd/m2, I avoid getting prints that are too dark. If you calibrate the monitor correctly, the colors should look good and you should have a white that looks white and a black that looks black - that is, you shouldn't have any colors that don't look right.
Second, when you use Elements (PSE) or Lightroom (LR) to print, be sure to indicate that you want PSE or LR to control the colors and not the printer. It's very important, too, that you have the correct printer-paper profiles downloaded into the printer driver and that you select the correct paper profile. I have an Epson 3880 printer and I use Epson papers (mostly); so, I tell PSE to use the profile that fits the paper I'm using - for example, Epson Premium Glossy. When I downloaded the printer driver into my computer, it also downloaded the Epson paper-printer profiles and they appear in the print dialog boxes used during the printing process. (Other paper manufacturers, such as Ilford, make profiles available for downloading on their website.)
I hope this helps; if it doesn't let's go into some more. -
Monitor calibration for aperture
can anyone suggest to me the best calibrator I can buy for under £100? I need to calibrate PB G4, Cinema Dispaly and LCD monitor.
Or is there nothing under £100 that is worth it? Do i have to spalsh out big time?
Cheers,
SvendoI got the Pantone Huey, under $80.
Very happy with the results, it even has an ambient light sensor to adjust your display's brightness according to it.
The only problem is that will allow you calibrate one display at a time. Can be solved if you call your secondary monitor "primary", calibrate it. Locate the profile just made and copy somewhere else. Switch back your main display as primary and calibrate it. Go to Preference panel, display and on your secondary display set the profile to the previous one.
Can't make it cheaper -
Dual logging: macbook and samsung 2233bw lcd monitor: missing drivers
hi,
this x-mas i got a samsung lcd monitor. it is connected via dvi, and it's great to have all this extra screen space to play with. i have an issue, though. my new monitor is unable to take advantage of all the graphic features because the driver that came on the samsung c.d. is for windows os. there is no driver download for mac osx on samsung.com. i don't really feel like buying huey pro or spyder 2 colorvision. what can i do to 'unlock this monitor's potential?'
thanks and happy new yearwell you don't actually need "drivers" for a monitor. the only thing beneficial would be a color profile. the cd probably contains some of those. but profiles need to be monitor, not monitor-model/series specific, as such, bundled profiles are just a "rough guide".
Since you cannot use the cd, you could try calibrating it with the colorsync utility in your applications->utilities folder. There are also some other better calibration tools on the net. a quick search yields good results.
but these eye-calibrations are never as good as the hardware calibration tools. maybe you know somebody who could lend you one? -
Two 24" LCD Monitors with FCP / Motion
I have a Mac Pro (early 2009) with the new ATI Radeon 4890 dual DVI video card and one Apple 24" LCD monitor. I'm using this setup for primarily FCP/Motion work. Question:
- Can the ATI Radeon 4890 handle two 24" LCD monitors, or do I need to purchase a second video card?
- Can FCP / Motion handle two video cards?
Thanks!
lanceCan the ATI Radeon 4890 handle two 24" LCD monitors
ABSOLUTELY. There are two monitor connections on the card. One DVI, the other the Apple connector.
Can FCP / Motion handle two video cards?
Yup. Most FCP workstations I have been on, and personally own, are two monitor setups. That is a fairly typical setup.
Shane -
A1081 Cinema Display LCD Monitor compatibility
I am about to buy a reconditioned A1081 Cinema Display LCD Monitor 20"? But i need to know if it will work with my MacBook Pro 10.5.8 and my ipad 2? As i am buying it to use at an exhibition. iIf so what adaptor will i need to hook both of these up? Thank you in advance.
Are you sure the monitor is set to receive input over the VGA input? Have you tried the DVI input on the monitor? You may have better luck with DVI.
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