Lens Profile Tool Addition – White Balance Offset Correction

I have noticed that my Canon 17-40mm and 70-200mm F4 IS lenses have virtually identical color temperature and can use the same white balance setting. My Sigma 50mm F2.8 Macro lens is another story, requiring almost 200K and +15 change to White Balance sliders. I am sure there are cases where Canon’s lenses will differ more widely and exhibit a similar degree of white balance differences, not to mention use of UV or 1B protection filters. An 85mm F1.2 lens using “rare earth” low dispersion glass, will have a warmer color temperature than a lens using more common glass elements.
I use the X-Rite ColorChecker Passport to create custom profiles for each of my camera bodies. I typically make separate correction presets for Daylight, Cloudy, and Tungsten (2700K). This requires changing the LR White Balance sliders to obtain “neutral gray in the ColorChecker image files shot in each of above described lighting conditions. It does not appear necessary to create a separate ColorChecker camera profile for each lens, just correction to the LR white balance slider settings.
I did some measurements of change in camera profile for Sunny Daylight (~5,500K), Cloudy (8,000K+), and Tungsten (~2,900K) lighting. There was no measurable change in rendering of the ColorChecker Passport images for the extreme Sunny to Cloudy conditions, and only very slight changewhen comparing the Tungsten profile. This was done by loading a ColorChecker Passport image file and applying alternate profiles:
EXAMPLE:
Open a DaylightColorChecker Passport image file in LR, apply Cloudy Camera Profile, and adjust White Balance for the gray scale patches using the Eyedropper Tool. Then look at the 'Before' and 'After' images....you will see NO visual change to any of the color patches. I saw only a very slight change when doing this with the Daylight to Tungsten (artificial light source) comparison.
The relatively small change in color balance between lenses (~500K max.) should have no measurable or visible affect to the ColorChecker Passport created "Camera Profile." The ColorChecker Passport or any other "Camera Profile" creation tool is first and foremost correcting for differences in the camera's image sensor color rendering.
SUGGESTION:
Since this white balance difference is a factor of the lens, it would be very convenient to add another tool in Lightroom's and Camera Raw Lens Profile panel for “White Balance Offset.” This allows setup of LR defaults for one specific lens type, such as your most used lens. Then you use the new ‘Lens Profile’ located ‘White Balance Offset’ correction tool to adjust white balance for all of your other lenses. In addition, Adobe or camera manufacturers could also provide the 'White Balance Offset Correction' as a function of the lens spectral response deviation from linear. This would provide a "uniform method" of calculating and adding the White Balance correction to the 'Lens Profile.' Since this is a factor of the lens only, the “lens offset correction” can be used with ANY lens/camera body pairing, The current LR and Camera Raw White Balance settings are then only used for “Global” correction of lighting conditions, and NOT for lens differences.
This is a linear mathematical function,which should be extremely easy for Adobe to add the ‘White Balance Offset’ correction feature to LR’s and Camera Raw's Lens Profile GUI. Just like many other tools in LR that some don't use, you can choose to use it or not!

Interesting suggestion. Thanks. -Simon

Similar Messages

DNG Camera Profile vs. White Balance?

I'm having trouble understanding DNG Camera Profiles and haven't found a good explanation online. I understand that each camera or camera/lens combination will have some variations, and I understand the white balance process. But I haven't grasped the idea that I can create a usable profile using one or two ColorChecker shots in conditions that aren't tightly controlled. For example, if I create a DNG Camera Profile using my tungsten lights, how does that help correct photos shot using different slightly warmer or cooler lights? How does the profile taken at an unknown color temperature help correct for another color temperature? And (more fundamentally) how is what the DNG Camera Profiles do different from a white balance adjustment? Feel free to just point me towards an existing explanation. I've read a lot about camera profiles, but I still don't quite get it. Thanks.

See this Luminance Landscape thread about dual illuminant profiles:
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=43733
If you scroll down to where I (tlooknbill) posted Color Checker chart samples, you'll see the visual differences.
Your camera may deliver different results.

Eye drop tool for white balance

It has been requested an eye drop tool to correct white balance issues in color correction for a long time. Is there any news on this? Will it be a new feature in upcoming updates?
If not... does anyone know a plugin that will do the same thing?
Short description:
I want to be able to select which colors are supposed to be white with an eye drop tool during color correction. This feature was available in earlier FCPs like 6 and 7. It saves tons of hours being able to auto adjust the whitebalance in post, rather than trying to match the correct color balance - dragging up and down these color circles, and then matching the color settings throughout the whole project.

The Color Corrector in FCPX is a misnomer. The color board is more about grading - not correcting.
If you can tell how the color is casting (or read the scopes) then the Color board is easy: line up the global control over the color and drag it downward (that will "subtract" the offending cast from the image.) Or use the shadows, midtones, and highlights controls individually for those ranges.
[But I find scopes difficult to use quickly, so:]
You can also use *any* of the effects, titles, or generators that have any color parameter selection (or gradient!) as an eyedropper in a pinch. Click on the swatch for the color parameter and from the pop up dialog (color picker), use the Magnifier (top left corner) and choose any pixel on the canvas (or anywhere else for that matter.) That will give you clear indication which primary elements are "too heavy" (red, green, blue -- or any two with greater value than the minimum) Using the HSB sliders mode (second icon and last on the dropdown) will give you the degree angle (which is what the color board uses) of the hue cast and the Saturation value will give you an indication of the "magnitude" of the cast. Move the appropriate control in the color board to the Hue degree and subtract the % shown by saturation -- and you're "white balanced" (I should say: neutral.) [PS, if you're not going to be using the effect, etc -- simply disable it by clicking on the blue rectangle -- you'll still be able to use the color picker -- and whatever the effect is won't interfere with your color edits.]
If you have Motion, you can build an "eyedropper" quickly by drawing a rectangle, setting the fill opacity to 0 and publishing its fill color -- it can be an effect, a title or most easily: a generator. Titles and generators are most easily dragged around the storyline and don't become "part of" a clip. If you don't have Motion, you can download one here: http://sight-creations.com/fxexchange/eyeDropperAssist.zip (a generator.)

DNG Profile editor and white balance

I am very happy to see the practical realization of the extentions announced in the DNG 1.2 specification. This is a great step forward to achieve wide acceptance of DNG.
While reading the User's Guide, I found following statement (in the Tutorial 1):
>3. (Optional) If the image is not already white-balanced, you can perform a click-WB using a context click
Why would one white balance here? What effect does that have on the result? The profile describes, which HSV will be converted in which HSV; this has nothing to do with the WB of a particular image.

The WB feature in the DNG Profile Editor (PE) is there because it is possible that you might open a DNG file in PE that has not already been white balanced. Imagine you photographed an image under tungsten lighting but had the in-camera WB manually set to daylight. If you didn't set the WB before converting the image to a DNG, it will appear very warm when you open it up in PE. So PE's WB feature is designed to save you time by letting you do a click-WB instead of having to go back to CR or LR to adjust the image's WB.
PE is named "profile editor" because it only edits profiles. It is not an image editor. So you are correct, you do not really need an image to edit profiles, technically. However, unless you have an image open you have no way to evaluate how good your adjustments are.
Typically the only reason to make a profile or edit a profile is if there's something about an existing profile that you're unhappy with. And you'd be unhappy because you'd have an example of a "problem" image, where the existing profile doesn't produce the result you want. That's the image you want to bring into the PE, so you can pick out the colors that are "wrong" and fix them.
Then ideally you would open many more images in PE just to verify that your adjustments generalize well.

Lightroom Bug: with GoPro Hero4 Silver Lens Profile, crop settings do not sync properly in Lightroom 5.7.1 when Constrain To Warp is checked

I was having a bit of difficultly in getting crop settings to properly sync in Lightroom 5.7.1 (running on OS X 10.10.1) when Constrain to Warp was checked. This appears to be a bug in the latest version(s) of Lightroom that include(s) the GoPro Hero4 Silver Lens Profile settings. I'm working with a lot of files from a GoPro Hero4 Silver camera shot in the time-lapse / interval timer mode. All of them are horizontal with the same resolution (and dimensions). I've tried various sequences to get this to work in terms of using Auto-Sync, resetting the settings on all images except one and then copy and pasting settings, etc, though the crop is not properly syncing regardless of what I do.
Here's are instructions of how to duplicate this issue (there are some extra details/steps here, though this should be clear enough to produce the same result):
     1. in the Develop settings for a single selected image, go to Lens Corrections, click to Enable Profile Corrections (in the Profile tab), and then pick the GoPro Hero4 Silver Edition (Adobe Profile) if it is not automatically chosen for you (if you are using files from a Hero4 Silver camera). After this, click on the Manual tab, and set the Scale setting to 76. (as you will see, you now have the full horizontal width of the image that was getting cropped off, though you do see white around the edges that have been warped/shaped to correct the fisheye distortion)
     2. Press the R key (or click on the Crop Overlay tool just below the histogram). Change the Aspect option to Custom. Click to unlock the lock next to it (this seems to re-lock after setting to custom even if it was locked before). Place a checkmark next to the Constrain To Warp option. (At this point, you'll see the image gets cropped back to an approximately 4:3 ratio and the full horizontal width is not included in the cropped area) Click the upper right most corner of the crop area and drag as much to the right and top as it lets you go. Do the same for the lower left corner, dragging it as far to the bottom left as you can go. (Now, you will see that your cropped area is the maximum rectangular width and height you can select without getting any of the excessive white area) Click the Close button (or press R again) to leave the crop overlay tool.
     3. Press G to go back to the grid of images. Make sure the image you just adjusted the settings for is the only one selected. Right click on it, go to Develop Settings, and click Copy Settings. Click Check All on the window that appears and then click Copy.
     4. De-select the image you were working on. Select multiple other images in the grid. Right click on one of these, go to Develop Settings, and click Paste Settings. (at this point, you will see their aspect ratio has become more panoramic than the 4:3 aspect ratio the images previously were)
     5. De-select these images. Select one of these image, and then press D to go to the Develop settings for this image. Press R to go to the Crop Overlay tool. Here you will see the bug where the crop was not properly copied over from the first image. The selected area is smaller than the full width and height available to crop.
It seems that the bug is that Lightroom is only copying the aspect ratio (and the other settings), but not the actual crop selection.
I just thought of a workaround that I've tested and can confirm works (and will also work in a slightly different workflow than above). In step 1 above, for the Model (and Profile), manually pick the "GoPro Hero4 Black Edition" or the "GoPro Hero3-Silver Edition". If using the "Hero3-Silver" setting, the Scale (also in step 1 above) need only be set to 79 (rather than 76 for the Hero4 profiles). By picking one of these Lens Profiles and doing everything else the same as the other steps above, the crop settings do copy and paste properly. This does also appear to work properly when selecting the "GoPro Hero3-White Edition" Lens Profile, with a Scale setting of 75, which yields a slightly more rectilinear image (with a wider aspect ratio -- almost, but not quite 16:9).
While this isn't too big of deal as it does work by picking one of the other lens profiles (and the Hero4 Black Edition profile appears to make the same exact correction to the image), this was incredibly frustrating last night to notice that some files had the proper horizontal field of view / crop and others didn't, and other users may experience this or not even notice their crop is not copied properly (as, depending on one's composition and image, it's not extremely obvious with such a wide view).
I hope this discovery helps someone else and provides feedback for Adobe to correct this issue in the next version of Lightroom 5.
On a separate, additional note for Adobe: Please allow the crop overlay tool to "crop" an image to a size that is larger than the original dimensions of the image. This would allow for one to retain maximum original sharpness in the center of the image when using the Lens Profile tool to correct, or "de-fish" a lens, without having to scale the image down with the Scale option on the Manual tab of the Lens Corrections settings. For example, when I do the above process selecting the Hero3-White Edition profile, my final image dimensions are 3840 by 2257 pixels, reducing the size of the image in the center by 25%. If the tool allowed one to crop/scale a larger image size, and I kept the Scale option of the Lens Corrections settings at 100 rather than 75, my final image dimensions would be 5120 by 3009 pixels (larger than the 4000 by 3000 pixel dimensions of the original image which the tool now limits me to). Yes, the edges would be a little softer but the center would retain the original detail. (this is essentially what the Calculate Optimal Size button found in the Hugin open source software does, when using it on a single image for lens transformations/corrections)

Can you zip up a few of your GoPro images, upload them to dropbox.com and post a share link, here, so others can experiment with them, or do you mean this issue is global to all camera models?

How can i add the Sigma 10mm 2.8 Fisheye lens profile from the camera profile in windows to lightroom 5?

It only seems to give me a 15mm fisheye option for Sigma and not the 10mm even though it is a profile in the camera profiles folder.
Can anyone help with importing this profile into Lightroom?

nickpearse wrote:
Just so it is black and white for my sake. I am shooting with a Nikon D7100 using a Sigma Fisheye 10mm 2.8 and using the Lens Profile of the Sigma 15mm 2.8mm on Lightroom.
Then the correct profile to use is the Sigma 10mm F2.8 if you want proper Vignetting correction and matching Distortion correction, but you'll need to shoot camera raw images (i.e. no JPEG lens profile). This is also why you are only seeing partial correction. As I said, "With a crop factor camera only the central crop area of the full-frame Sigma 15mm lens profile will be applied."
That said there is absolutely nothing wrong with using the Sigma 15mm lens profile with your crop factor Nikon D7100 if you are happy with the partial correction results, but you can also do this using the correct Sigma 10mm lens profile (set less than 100). There is a fisheye correction plugin called Fisheye-Hemi that works very similar in that it only applies partial correction. You're getting about the same results as Fisheye-Hemi for free using partial correction with the LR lens profile tool. That should make you happy! I suggest experimenting with both the 15mm and 10mm lens profiles and start shooting camera raw image files. Your're not realizing the camera's full capability shooting JPEGs!
In the DSC_7098 images posted none of them look very sharp (slow shutter speed?). Other than geometric correction I can't judge the posted images for "sharpness" in the corrected areas, which is the major concern. The biggest issue with rectilinear correction of fisheye images is loss of detail in areas with the most correction (edges and corners). If that were not the case people would use fisheye lenses for ALL wide-angle images and simply correct them inside LR. Sadly that's not the case and using LR's Lens Profile Distortion and other transform tools to correct fisheye images considerably softens the corrected areas (sides and corners).
Fisheye geometric distortion with some subjects is almost undetectable. So how much correction you need will vary by subject type and what the end use for the image. Any fisheye image that has correction applied will lose sharpness in the corrected areas, which may be fine for most purposes other than large prints.So it's best not to strive for 100% rectilinear correction–Just the correction needed to make the image look better.
Canon 8-15mm F4L FE on 5D MKII Full-Frame @ 15mm (No correction)
Looks good to me with no correction!
For more flexibility and better results PS's Wide Angle Adaptive filter and content aware fill tools will retain more image detail in the corrected areas. Here's the same lens and camera with an image processed in PS:
15mm Full-Frame Fisheye
LR Distortion = 50 (partial) PS Adaptive Wide Angle Filter + Content Aware Fill
The corner image detail is about the same in both of the above images at 1:1 view. Partial LR Distortion correction is good!
So what happens if I apply 100 Distortion correction to the image inside LR?
1:1 Compare View (lower-left) with LR Distortion = 100
100% LR Distortion correction of fisheye images is NOT good IMHO!

White balance for infrared images

Hello there,
I love making infrared photos with my digital camera (Canon dSRL).
When I take an IR shot, I usually set the custom white balance inside the camera, so that false colours appear correctly. If I open the CR2 RAW file using the software provided by Canon (Digital Photo Professional) the image appears correctly; on the contrary, if I use Adobe Camera Raw (which I prefer to) it seems that my custom white balance is not properly displayed.
So I'm wondering if this is an issue of CR or there is something to do that I don't know. Can you help me?

This tutorial by Sean MacCormick shows how you can edit the camera profile so that White Balance for IR images is brought within the adjustment range that Camera Raw and Lightroom http://lightroom-blog.com/2009/05/creating-ir-camera-profile.html

White Balance In "PS" Or In "LR"

Hello Everyone I have a question please.
1- Shooting with my Canon 5D, Mostly shooting with Strobes, Usually I choose a Custom white Balance shooting a Gray-Card. Or some-times I set it at: 5200- 5500 K.
2- Later I shoot a Color-Checker with the same Lighting that I shot my Images In that day, and I Import the color-checker Image into Lightroom.
3- I select the Eye-Dropper Tool, and I choose a white balance by clicking on one of the neutral colors inside the Lightroom .
4- I export the Color-Checker As a DNG file.
5- I Drag and Drop the DNG file into the Color-Checker, and I save my profile.( I can also export it as a Preset of Color-Checker from File-Export-Preset- Color-Checker Passport )
6- I go to the Photoshop and I go to the Camera-Raw, and Open the Images and I apply the preset Manually to each Image one by one.
Here Is my question:
some people say: It Is better to go to the Lightroom and export the Color-Checker as a preset and later apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for White Balance..
And, Some people say It Is always better to apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for white balance at first Inside the Lightroom and then export the color-Checker as a preset.
and some other people say It is better to export the Color-Checker as a Preset and open it Inside the Photo-Shop Camera Raw, and then Click on the White Balance Eye Dropper Tool Inside the Camera Raw, and select the white Balance and then save It as the final preset and apply that preset to the Images..
I worked with Photoshop for many years, But, I am very new to Lightroom.
Please let me know what is your recommendation.
Thank you very much

Hello Everyone I have a question please.
1- Shooting with my Canon 5D, Mostly shooting with Strobes, Usually I choose a Custom white Balance shooting a Gray-Card. Or some-times I set it at: 5200- 5500 K.
2- Later I shoot a Color-Checker with the same Lighting that I shot my Images In that day, and I Import the color-checker Image into Lightroom.
3- I select the Eye-Dropper Tool, and I choose a white balance by clicking on one of the neutral colors inside the Lightroom .
4- I export the Color-Checker As a DNG file.
5- I Drag and Drop the DNG file into the Color-Checker, and I save my profile.( I can also export it as a Preset of Color-Checker from File-Export-Preset- Color-Checker Passport )
6- I go to the Photoshop and I go to the Camera-Raw, and Open the Images and I apply the preset Manually to each Image one by one.
Here Is my question:
some people say: It Is better to go to the Lightroom and export the Color-Checker as a preset and later apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for White Balance..
And, Some people say It Is always better to apply the Eye-Dropper Tool for white balance at first Inside the Lightroom and then export the color-Checker as a preset.
and some other people say It is better to export the Color-Checker as a Preset and open it Inside the Photo-Shop Camera Raw, and then Click on the White Balance Eye Dropper Tool Inside the Camera Raw, and select the white Balance and then save It as the final preset and apply that preset to the Images..
I worked with Photoshop for many years, But, I am very new to Lightroom.
Please let me know what is your recommendation.
Thank you very much

Why does my infrared custom white balance not load into Lightroom or CameraRaw?

The preview shows the correct WB, but the full render removes WB and any monochromatic color profiles.
Correct WB that I want. As seen from back of camera
Once the full preview loads. DO NOT WANT.
White balance is at 2000, the coolest it can go. I cannot recreate the custom WB that is in camera. I can make all of the B&W, but I want the custom WB so I can do a proper channel mix in PS.
Thank you for any help.

You can use the DNG Profile Editor to add a negative bias to the WB settings in an existing camera profile and save it as a new profile (for IR) so you can adjust the effective WB lower than 2000K:
http://stevencastle.wordpress.com/2010/07/17/processing-infrared-shots-in-adobe-camera-raw /
It still won’t pick up what the camera did, but you can adjust things lower, at least.
If this one page doesn’t make sense Google for (DNG Profile Editor IR white balance)

Making White Balance, Sharpen, ect. part of the default HUD

Greetings,
I would like to add the sharpen, white balance, color correction and others set to be a part of the default HUD. I found this post here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=674833&tstart=0
but it does not seem to work for version 2.1 (the version I have). I say this because I do not have the file AdjustmentsDefaults.plist in my Library/Application Support/Aperture.
I tried to look within my profile and within the main Library.
How can I do this? Thanks.

Hey,
It's much easier in 2.1.
In Aperture open The Adjustments HUD.
Click and Add '+' button and select edge sharpen to add the edge sharpen brick to your HUD (or any other you should choose).
On the edge sharpen brick itself click the action button (the picture of the cog wheel).
Choose 'add to default set'.
You should be sorted.
Hope this helps.
M.

Need lens profile rokinon 14mm for sony nex7

Please does anyone know if there is a Lightroom 5 lens profile for Rokinon(aka Bower/Samyang) 14 mm for sony nex 7??
Thanks

The Adobe Lens Profile implementation is not camera model specific. Cameras with the same sensor size should theoretically be able to use the same lens profiles regardless of the camera make or model. Adobe also provides the capability of using lens profiles from larger sensor size (full-frame) cameras with images shot using smaller sensor (APS-C) camera models (i.e. Crop Factor). As best I can tell the Adobe and User created lens profiles are agnostic, except for image file type. Different lens profiles are required for raw and JPEG images. As long as the lens profile crop factor is the same or smaller than the target camera it should work just fine. The Sony Nex7 has a 1.5 Crop Factor sensor size, so any lens profile with a 1.5 to 1 crop factor should work. Lens profiles with the nearly same sensor size 1.6 crop factor should also work.
The Adobe Lens Profile Downloader lists numerous lens profiles for this lens under 'Camera Make' Nikon for both raw and JPEG. You could also use any of the lens profiles that appear under 'Camera Make' Canon.
1) Download and install the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader for Windows or Mac.
2) Launch the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader, select a suitable lens profile, and download it. Add as many as you like!
3) Close and reopen LR, select an image shot with the 14mm lens, go to Develop> Lens Corrections panel, and select 'Make' same as you downloaded (i.e. Nikon), and under 'Model' scroll down to the bottom of the list and you should see the downloaded profile(s). Test it with the 14mm images.
4) If satisfied select in the Lens Profile panel Setup> 'Save New Lens Profile Default.'
These profiles are created and submitted by users with varying degrees of technical-expertise. The lens profiles have a 'Rating,' based on some metric. Please keep in mind that 100% distortion and vignetting correction can actually make the image look worse, especially with a wide-angle lens. Most wide angle lenses have barrel type distortion and when corrected with the LR Lens Profile tool you will see corner "stretching," which creates cropping and volume anamorphosis. Images also tend to look more natural when there is a slight amount of vignetting left in the image. I typically use 0% Distortion and 50% Vignetting and only adjust them higher in images where it is visible. YMMV.....

Where would I get a lens profile?

I have lightroom 4 and Canon Powershot S110 do I need a lens profile correction and if yes so from where would I get it?
Thanks

I checked with the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader and there doesn't seem to be a profile available for download for the S110. There is one for the S100 and they are very similar lenses. You could try using it, or create your own using the Adobe Lens Profile tool.

Wrong white balance in Bridge

Since I reinstalled my computer I have a problem with displaying Canon CR2 files in Bridge - white balance in just incorrect. When I open it in Camera RAW, for about 1 second it displays still incorrectly, but then colours of the picture change and white balance is correct - I can even see that histogram changes slightly at the same moment. Than it opens in Photoshop correctly too. White balance is set to "as shot". I have PS CS6 and ACR 8.1 as part of Creative Suite 6 Design & Web Premium (all updates are installed). Anyone can solve the problem? I can say that I tried to install Creative Suite on 2 different computers and the problem is in both cases.

But when I open fool preview in Bridge (space, then left mouse click), after a short time when preview renders, the picture becomes fine. So I wonder what picture is displayed in Bridge non-full-screen preview?
Let's first focus on your preference settings. Try these settings:
In Bridge under Adobe Bridge CC open the Camera Raw preferences.
In the section 'Default Image Settings' make sure the the above 2 are NOT checked (Auto tone and auto grayscale)
It is useful to have checked defaults to specific serial number when you did generate a custom default in ACR and iso specific is only useful if you have saved all different iso settings as different ACR defaults.
Then go to same menu and open Bridge Preferences.
In the section Cache under options have only a checkmark in front of 'Keep 100% previews in Cache', don't use the option to export cache to folder.
Also increase the slider for cache size a bit, somewhere half way or left to halfway should be good enough.
Under Advanced / miscellaneous only have a check mark in front of generate monitor sized previews, leave the other 2 blank.
Then in the content window with the problem files be sure to have no hidden cache folders. Use menu view / show hidden files and search for document icons with BridgeCache and BridgeCacheT. If they are here delete both to the trash.
Then restart Bridge and try again
Also might be related to not having synced the color settings in Bridge when having more Suite apps installed from CC.
Any advice how can I check it?
When you have only PS installed Bridge uses the color settings you have saved in there, otherwise you should sync the Bridge color settings for correct colormanagement.
In PS go to the menu edit / Color settings
Check if your settings are what you want and either read the name already given or save these settings under a proper name.
Then in Bridge use the same route (edit/Color Settings and check if the saved settings file is active in the list (Bridge tells you in this menu if the settings are synced or not so that should be easy to check.

Using Lens profiles for Nikon D800 in Lightroom 3.6

When I use Lightroom 3.6 with pictures from Nikon D800, the lens profile for the Mikro Nikor 60 mm lens is not in the list of coice. However, when the picture is from a Nikon D5000, the same lens appears in the list. So, a lens profile exists, but is not open for pictures from the D800. How can I solve this problem? The same is true for the 18-200 mm lens, which however is not suited for the D800 due to heavy vignetting at wide angle, and with the 70-300 mm, which gives good results.

The D5000 is a crop sensor. The D800 is a Full-Frame sensor. The Profile for D5000 cannot be "scaled" for a full-frame sensor: thus, it cannot be used.
Every lens has multipe profiles: 1 for Raw and 1 for Jpeg in each sensor size. If one has not been created for your particular lens, camera a file format you have three options.
1: Download the Adobe Lens Profile tool from Adobe Labs and create on yourself. It isn't hard but it is time consuming.
2: Part of the Adobe Lens Profile tool is a Lens Profile Downloader where you can gain access to a community of people who have shared their lens profiles.
3: Wait for Adobe to include it in a dot release of Lightroom.
I checked and I did see the profile for your 60MM available via the downloader.
http://labs.adobe.com/downloads/lensprofile_creator.html

Lens Profile Help

Hi
Can someone help please?
I have downloaded the lens profile tool and found one of the lenses I need. I have downloaded it and the tool now says it is installed but I can't access it in Lightroom. What have I done wrong?
Also I need another profile but I can't find the area the help files talk about to find it.
I have a Lumix GF1 with the standard G14/f2.5 lens. I also have the 14-45 zoom which I really need the lens profile for
Thanks very much

Thanks Jeff,
You are absolutely right.
I thought I had upgraded properly, but I had not.
Ran the updater again, and success.
Thanks again.
Steve

Lens Profile Tool Addition – White Balance Offset Correction

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