Looking for best compatible camcorder for Mac

Which format is best duited for I movie and Macbook's in general. I want a mid level camcorder for vacations and family and would like ease of use for editing in I movie & other video editing programs with my new Macbook pro. Is Mini DV still the format of choice? What about SD flash?
thanks

Start your research here:
iMovie 11 - cameras supported:
http://help.apple.com/imovie/cameras/en/index.html?lang=en_US
iMovie 9 - cameras supported:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3290?viewlocale=en_US
iMovie 8 Camcorders supported:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1014
Digital camera RAW formats supported by OS X Lion:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4757?viewlocale=en_US
Digital camera RAW formats supported by OS X Snow Leopard:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3825?viewlocale=en_US

Similar Messages

Looking for best apple software for image extraction i.e. select an image from one photo and place it on another photo

looking for best apple software for image extraction i.e. select an image from one photo and place it on another phot

Cannot guarantee it's the best, but it certainly is the least expensive:
http://www.gimp.org/downloads/

Looking for an HD Camcorder for under $400

I am looking to buy an HD camcorder for under $400. I have Final Cut Studio (so in other words I am running Final Cut Pro 7) and really have no clue what camera to go with that is compatible with my program. I have been immensely impressed with the reviews of the Canon Vixia HF R20, and figure if I also buy an external mic to accompany it, it will be great, but then I read it isn't compatible with FCP 7... I could download a converter, but then I worry about losing picture quality.... basically I'm lost in a sea of options, and the Internet is full of contradictions and different opinions! I've always loved editing, and got FCP Studio while in university, where we were able to borrow a camera when we needed one, but now I am graduating and want a camera of my own. I am looking to stick to my budget, as I don't need a $1000 dollar camera, just a quality camcorder that shoots nice HD video. Please, someone who knows more than me, help me out with this!

Good point(s). That's why I said I think I'd like to go HD. I didn't know how necessary it was, I just knew it was what was popular now. I'd mainly be using it to do home movies, maybe the occasional web clip and make regular SD DVDs. I don't even have a Blu-Ray player yet, though I plan on getting one and I don't think I'd take enough movies to have a burning desire to plug the camera into an HDTV to watch videos.

I am looking for best wireless earphones for my iPhone 5s

I am looking for best wireless earphones. I travel a lot and I need good sound quality earphones.

"Best" in something like headphones is very much a matter of personal preference. Much depends on the type of heaphones you're looking for and how much you're willing to spend. I am very, very fond of the Beats Studio HDs. I take public transportation and they block out most of the annoyances. They are also large and expensive. I can't use them for running.
www.ilounge.com used to do pretty good reviews of accessories for iOS devices. Or, try Amazon, tons of reviews there.

Best HD Camcorder for my New iMac Help Please

Hello All
I have only had my New iMac for about a month now
I am wanting to get a New HD Camcorder, but I need one that will work with my New iMac.
Can someone help me find a Good HD Camcorder that will work with my iMac?
I was looking at the Sonys, but I hear they don't work with Apple?
Thanks Everyone in Advance! Bobby

*I cannot restore the iPod to it's factory settings as my PC is lost and it was linked to it. I need your help!*
You don't need the old computer to restore the iPod, connect it to the Mac you can restore it in iTunes there. (By the way, you don't need to restore simply to use it on a Mac since Macs can read Windows formatting.)
Connect your iPod to the Mac, when it appears in iTunes click on it's icon to display the preference tabs. In the Summary tab click on Restore. Once the restore is complete follow the on screen instructions to name the iPod and automatically sync your songs and videos onto the fresh installation. Press Done and the iPod will appear in iTunes and start to sync. If you want to update manually or using selected playlists uncheck the box beside the sync automatically instruction and press Done, it will default to manual mode and you can choose whatever setting you like: Restoring iPod to factory settings with iTunes 7

Best camera/camcorder for a concert?

Hi, I'm going to a concert in a month and I really want a camera or camcorder that is less than $300 and can provide good video, I'm not so much looking for good pictures I just want good video quality and sound. Also nothing professional or bulky, just something I can easily but in my bag. Any advice on what cameras are good for this? I'm looking more for a digital camera than a camcorder. I'm thinking maybe the canon powershot ELPH 300 HS or 110 HS? But any other cameras I'm more than willing to look into. Thanks so much!!

Hi Michelle_15,
With your budget you will need to stick with Point-and-Shoot cameras, and it sounds like you want something relatively small anyway. Both models you listed should do an adequate job of capturing video of this concert, but keep in mind no Point-and-Shoot camera will do a great job of video capture in dark environments like concerts.
Thanks,
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

I'm looking for "best practices" advice for a project setup (Premiere CS5.5, Windows 7 Pro)

I have been tasked with updating an old Corporate video with new music, sounds, graphics and narration.
The ONLY video-camera material I have is from a corporate DVD (NTSC) - the original source material is simply not available. .
I can rip the DVD to MPEG 2 and import it into Premiere without issue, but would like to be able to use higher-resolutions for the updated graphics.
I plan to export to Youtube (HD) but may well export to DVD or BluRay as well.
My question really narrows down to how to manage Sequences. I figure that my Sequence settings should be the highest resolution I expect to work with (Youtube HD or Bluray) allowing me to easily export to lower quality, but I don't really know if it's as simple as that. Is there an industry standard methodology? Am I close?

Premiere can actually use .vob files from DVDs, just copy them from DVD to hard drive, then Import into Premiere.
Is the existing DVD video in a 4:3 or 16:9 format? If 4:3, consider how you will work that into a 16:9 program. Rather than having black pillar bars at the sides, many editors will put in some sort of background to fill that space. A popular solution is to duplicate the 4:3 video on a lower track, stretch to fill the screen and add Gaussian Blur effect. Since the colors/content of the side bars will match the main video, it is somewhat disguises the fact that the video is 4:3.
If you put SD footage into an HD program, it is going to look "soft" compared to HD footage. As a compromise, you might consider editing the new program as 720p rather than 1080p, so that the SD resolution is not being stretched as far. All computer video/YouTube video is non-interlaced, meaning editing sequences and exports should be done as Progressive.
Potential workflow issue - if you take the existing SD footage from the DVD, and upscale it into an HD sequence, then export back to DVD (SD resolution), the video is turned to mush. It has been upscaled, then dowscaled again, really kills the quality. Might need to copy the finished HD sequence to an SD sequence, fix any size/scaling issues for graphics and titles, and export DVD from the SD sequence to avoid the upscale/downscale of SD footage. Note that DVD video is highly compressed, so you are already working with a weak source material, recompressing again is going to be a quality hit in any case, but definitely avoid upscale/downscale again.
I don't have Adobe apps in front of me at the moment, but I believe the 720p Blu-ray export options are limited, perhaps 720p at 59.94 only, not certain. That may effect your decision of 1080p versus 720p.
Hope these tips help
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Looking for best design approach for moving data from one db to another.

We have a very simple requirement to keep 2 tables synched up that live in 2 different databases. There can be up to 20K rows of data we need to synch up (nightly).
The current design:
BPEL process queries Source DB, puts results into memory and inserts into Target DB. Out of memory exception occurs. (no surprise).
I am proposing a design change to get the data in 1000 row chunks, something like this:
1. Get next 1000 records from Source DB. (managed through query)
2. Put into memory (OR save to file).
3. Read from memory (OR from a file).
4. Save into Target DB.
Question is:
1 Is this a good approach and if so, does SOA have any built in mechanisms to handle this? I would think so since I believe this is a common problem - we don't want to reinvent the wheel.
2. Is it better to put records into memory or writing to a file before inserting into the Target DB?
The implementation team told me this would have to be done with Java code, but I would think this would be out of the box functionality. Is that correct?
I am a SOA newby, so please let me know if there is a better approach.
Thank you very much for your valued input.
wildeman

Hi,
After going through your question, the first thing that came to my mind is what would be the size of the 20K records.
If this is going to be huge then even the 1000 row logic might take significant time to do the transfer. And I think even writing it to a file will not be efficient enough.
If the size is not huge then probably your solution might work. But I think you will need to decide on the chunk size based on how well your BPEL process will work. Possible you can try different size and test the performance to arrive at an optimal value.
But in case the size is going to be huge, then you might want to consider using ETL implementations. Oracle ODI does provide such features out of the box with high performance.
On the other hand, implementing the logic using the DBAdapter should be more efficient than java code.
Hope this helps. Please do share your thoughts/suggestions.
Thanks,
Patrick

Looking for Best Hardware solution for PSTN to PBX spa 3000 series, a plug in pc card or ?

Hi All,
I'm looking at the SPA3120 voip router as a possible device to connect a single analog phone line to a linux based PBX- perhaps asterisk or freeswitch.
Any voice mail and call routing (inter office or office to/from pstn) should be handled via the pbx.
VOIP is another matter, office phones (4) are planned to be ip based and will connect via common ethernet line.
Right now just need a low cost analog to pbx device. is the spa3120 the device to use or should I look at perhaps a x100p pci card installed in the server? with the spa device I don't have as much to worry about regarding pbx & linux hardware issues.
New to all this so feeling a bit lost...

Hi.
These products are being handled by the Cisco Small Business Support Community.
*If my post answers your question, please mark it as "Accepted Solution".
Thanks!

What are the settings to for best quality video for playback on computer?

I'm not having any software or hardware issues. I have tried differnent combinations using AVI, MPEG and WMV and I'm still not satisfied with the quality.
I have used the same settings as my original video and it still is no where near the quality. Maybe this is as good as it gets, any help would be appreciated.
quick rundown
I'm using the recorder on my computer to record my screen and voice to create video tutorials for my students to watch on-line. This creates a 720x480 AVI file and has good quality.

What is the best preset to use for HD-lite?
The best is one that matches the Source Footage 100%. Unfortunately, with that variation on HD, I do not think that PrE, even PrE 10, will be able to come close. PrPro, however, does have the ability to do Custom Sequences (think a bunch of mini-Projects inside of a Project), and one can match odd Frame Sizes, FPS, etc.. I was hoping that PrE 10 would have Custom Presets, but it did not show up. This limits PrE to standard Frame Sizes, which is not what most video screen capture programs offer. Your footage does not match to any real HD-Lite Frame Sizes, so you will still have the same problem.
It does appear that your program, while different than the TechSmith Camtasia, does use the TSCC CODEC. This will give you a bit more info. Also, though you do not have Camtasia, or CamStudio, I think that the article, that I linked to above, might be of use.
Now, what options does your video capture program offer for output?
Good luck,
Hunt

Request for best connectivity Setup for WRT 1900ac. DHCP issue

Hello Customer Care Team.
I imported the WRT 1900ac router from the USA to my location in India. Apparently your Customer care in Indai don’t give any support for this fantastic router.
I am not at your mercy for assistance.
Please help & guide me in getting the best out of it and with a good setup.
MY ADSL+2 Modem Router : Netgear
Internet connectivity as follows:
Lan IP
192.168.1.1, subnet : 255.255.255.0
Dhcp server On : start: 192.168.1.2 End : 192.168.1.254
Wan IP Setup
PP0E LLC/SNAP NAT on
Wan Ip auto assigned
MTU: 1492
My Linksys wrt1900ac wireless is setup as follows for 2.4ghz & 5ghz
2.4 ghz 5ghz
Network mode mixed mixed
Security mode wPA2 WPA2
Channel width auto auto
Channel auto auto
Besides above WRT 1900ac has:
1. NAT enabled
2.Local network DHCP enabled as :
DHCP server enabled
Start IP: 10.185.21.100 end: 10.185.21.199
IP 10.185.21.X Range
3. Internet setting on WRT 1900ac as:
IPv4 Auto DHCP Configuration MTU Auto
I want you to tell me if my Linksys WRT 1900ac is configured correctly and the DHCP server IPs are correct.
When I enter 192.168.1.1 in the browser it takes me to my netgear modem web setup page. So How do I get to make all the modem & the wifi in the range of 192.168.1.1 etc.
Please help & provide your best solution for fast speed .
Thanks
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Sorry you didn't get an answer faster but you have to know this is a peer to peer forum. it is users helping other users so not always the quickest way. First off, can you change your ISP router to modem only mode? It is best that way as you will get conflicts such as what you are seeing when there are two routers in the same link. You are getting the ISP router when you enter 192.168.1.1 because that is its address on the LAN side. It appears that your router is getting set to a 10.x IP because of the setup. You have two routers trying to work with DHCP so that is also an issue. If you can change the ISP router to modem only mode then once it is up disconnect it from the router and do a factory reset on your router and make sure it has the IP of 192.168.1.1 and you will then be able to make any changes you need to. the default login is password of admin and leave the user blank.

Best compatible Pro HD Camcorder for FCP 6?

I am used to the old days of mini-DV format when things where simple LOL! With the introduction of new formats I do not know which way to go?
Can someone help me in the best HD Camcorder for ease of capturing and editing. I will need to give pros and cons to my boss. I know DV tape is still easy to capture and edit but what is the cons of it now a days?
I heard with compressed formats editing can be difficult and still has issues??
Budget wise looking at options in the $2500K up to $4K.
Thank you

I use HDV in a Sony V1U. I used to edit in HDV natively, but now I capture to ProRes 422 (NOT HQ) any my G5 Quad does it in real time.
Pros: HDV uses DV tape which is inexpensive and great for archiving: capture it, then stuff in in its case, then in a plastic box (I got mine from Tapestockonline.com) for safekeeping.
ProRes edits easily, but if you have multiple streams (like multiclip, composites, etc.), you may run out of disk band width. I use the internal 7200RPM drives, or external FW800 drives and get two to three streams. More than that and you need a RAID (see CalDigit). A trick: put different captures on different devices/busses: one stream on an internal SATA, another external FW800: you are sort of doing a poor mans performance RAID.
Cons: a drop out on tape may mean up to 1/2 second of missing video and audio data. Whoops! I use Sony HDM-63VG (videographer grade: $8/tape) and have never had this issue.
Capturing HDV to ProRes 422 is only "capture now." There is no log an capture, so recovering from a failing disk drive is more complicated... You could capture to native HDV, then convert it in and FCP sequence set for ProRes 422, or using Compressor.
Prores 422 takes about 4x the disk space as HDV (or DV, for that matter).
I will eventually go to solid state capture, and the new JVC's are pointing in the right direction. Long GOP mpeg2 on SDHC will be more reliable than tape, so dropouts should not be a problem. I'd probably still convert to ProRes 422, however. Buying bare drives and a Wiebetech ComboDock is about as cheap as archiving tapes.
Just some thoughts: no conclusion.
Eddie O
PS: with the NEW JVC camera, does anyone know if the color space is 4:2:2 or 4:2:0?
Message was edited by: Edward A. Oates
Message was edited by: Edward A. Oates

Recommendations for best wireless multifunction printer for Macs $100?

Anyone with recommendations for best wireless MFP for Macs <$100. Would like to be able to print photos too. Need EASY set up. Prefer two paper cartridges. Would like to be able to print from iPad, iPhone, Laptop and Mac. Also need to fax.
Oh...and need to buy it tomorrow. Help appreciated.

Hard to say, we all like different flavors.
If you have had a good experence with say your old Epson like I have, then that's the flavor that I will most likely stick with.

Pre-Size Your PPI for Best Print - Once Good Advice Still Good?

In another thread someone mentinoed pre-sizing image data to prepare it for best printing.
For a long time it's been "standard advice" to resize images so that the ppi is an even division of the printer's dpi, because some years ago occasionally one would run across printers that would produce poor results if you didn't - you might see jaggies in straight edges for example.
Thing is, computers have (not so) quietly been getting more powerful over time, and printer makers have been competing with one another to try to make their printers produce better results than the other guys. One way they've done this is by improving the quality of the algorithms in the printer drivers. Use of mega storage and high accuracy math, which was once taxing on older computer systems, is now standard practice.
So it's time to question the old rule of thumb.
Making a few assumptions about the many variables (what printer, what OS, what version of drivers, what application being used to print) , there seem to be several questions here:
1. Can the image resolution be too high, causing the printer driver to make bad decisions about what ink dots to lay down where on the paper?
2. Does it help or matter if the image PPI is an even division of the printer's DPI?
As I have done in the past, I set out to do some actual testing, to see if I can actually SEE anything to help answer these questions.
I created a sharp image to be printed at 3 x 2 inches: http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/Ghirardelli.jpg
Then I printed it at 6 different resolutions (1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, and 100 ppi) by resampling the image, labeling it, printing from Photoshop CS5, and feeding the same sheet of HP Premium Plus photo paper through my older HP 932c inkjet printer 6 times. The printer was set to its highest quality settings, including 2400 x 1200 dpi mode. This was the result:
I then looked critically and as objectively as I could at the different images. Here are my observations:
Naked eye:
The four highest resolution images (1000, 720, 567, and 300 ppi) all seemed to have an equivalent high level of crisp detail.
I could not detect the inkjet dots. Smooth objects look smooth.
Jeweler's Loupe:
I could see significant reduction in the finest details in the 300 ppi print vs. the three higher resolution prints, and a slight reduction in the 567 ppi vs. 720.
At no resolution were any jaggies or evidence of aliasing visible.
The inkjet dot pattern was plainly visible, and it does differ between the different prints. But it was not possible to say whether one was "better".
Things seem to have a little more texture in the 1000 ppi print vs. the 720 and 567 ppi prints.
Macro Photo:
Lacking a high resolution scanner, I took photographs of the 6 different prints. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to set up with my best lighting and lens combination, so I got some reflections off the glossy paper, and and at this resolution I can't really see the inkject dots in the photos. I want to repeat this when I can find more time to do it better. As I did these photos hand-held, I believe the variances between them could be slightly influencing the results. But I'm going to post them anyway, for you to see.
I could see ever so slightly more detail in the 720 ppi print vs. the 1000 ppi print, though from the size of the tiny dust/light reflections I think it may have just been the better focused. Note that this observation is not supported by direct observation through the jeweler's loupe, above.
The 1000 ppi and 567 ppi prints seems to have slightly more noise or texture than the 720 ppi print. Again, this might be issues introduced by the photography process, though I did note a possible increase in texture in the 1000 ppi print with the jeweler's loupe as well.
Beyond just the blurring, I could see some evidence that straight lines are not quite as straight in the lower resolutions (300 ppi and lower). This seemed more apparent than with the jeweler's loupe examination, and I wonder whether the Photoshop downsampling process could have introduced it.
Left to right, top to bottom: 1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, 100:
Conclusions:
Printing to my HP 932c inkject printer on Windows 7 x64
300 ppi is not sufficient to coax the best possible detail out of an inkjet printer. It appears a number in the vicinity of 720 or more is better, and this number could be much higher with modern very high resolution printers (mine's old).
Speed was no different in printing any of these - a modern computer can process a huge amount of data in the blink of an eye.
When a sufficiently high resolution image is printed (in this case 567 ppi or higher) I saw virtually no evidence that a particular ppi value is superior, for example an even division of the printer's dpi, though in hindsight I realize I should have prepared a 600 ppi image (duh). I will add a 600 ppi image before I re-photograph the results.
It's possible ever so slightly more texture becomes visible at 1000 ppi than 720 ppi, but it might be just noise.
Practically speaking, from looking critically at the results I could not see a reason to pre-size the image for a specific ppi value.
I encourage you to experiment and report your results with your particular combination of gear.
Your comments are welcome!
-Noel

Noel Carboni wrote:
Jeff Schewe wrote:
I would never suggest people actually downsample though...why waste the pixels?
Exactly. There was a statement in another recent thread that downsampling to be an even fraction of the print dpi was important to do.
It might have been a misapplied extension of the advice to upsample. It's not been all that long that we've had big enough high resolution data that even makes downsampling a possibility.
-Noel
I believe I was the one to make that statement, which was based on recommendations by an Epson Print expert at a seminar demoing printers. He showed to prints from the same file, one set at an even multiple of 720 and the other some random number. It was subtle but visible the difference. That was probably 5 years ago.
In the meantime, I have made extensive tests of prints on my Epson 3800 trying many combinations of single pass, hi speed, Super fine print (2880x1440) and down to the basic level.
Everything evened out at 720 dpi. At 360, which is where I output from ACR, I can make an 8x12 print with no resampling whatsoever. Upping that to 720 and pushing the printer hard (2880x1440, single pass on Canson Platine), I see a discernable difference in the smooth tonalities.
As I understood you from past conversations, you employ the maximum output size from ACR which in my case, would double the file size by upsampling, and if necessary, downsample from that. I am not comfortable doing that as a default operation, but perhaps Jeff S might step in here and clarify. After all, ACR does offer that option! But my file size now goes from ~70MP to 143 MP, cutting my storage capability by 1/2. It's not a trivial matter when two of us here can run 600 to 800 images in 1/2 day!

Camcorder for FCP

Looking into getting a camcorder for making video of a lesson about 20 min long.Camcorder will be on a tripod. Will be editing in final cut pro on iMac.Budget $500 range.
I am looking for good video, good sound and seamless (easiest and fastest) transfer of video from camcorder to iMac and final cut pro.
Video will be edited for view on youtube and website.
I have looked at these, and it seems they are all in range of what I am looking for. They all fit in the apple specs, but from amazon reviews, someone always has had some difficulty in transfer process or something. So if anyone has advice that can tick the all the boxes, it will be much appreciated
$500
Good video
Good Sound
Easy transfer to iMac and FCP. Easy being plug it in and go ( If thats possible).
Thanks
Panasonic HC-V110 Light Weight HD 1080p Digital Camcorder (black)
Canon Vixia HF R300 Full HD Flash Memory Camcorder with 51x Advanced Zoom
Sony HDR-CX110 High-Definition Handycam Camcorder

I'm with Russ - all AVCHD, all easy with FCPX ...
meant as an addendum:
• audio - what Russ allready said: depending on your recording situation, you'll need a Lav- or shotgun-mic; or a complete external audio-solution, FCPX multi-cam feature makes it drop-dead-easy to synch different video+audio sources.
• light - you get a softbox/lamp/tripod-combo for less than 50$ .. adds incredible 'bang' for little bucks to your videos Do not rely on 'low light performance' - low light='noisy' pics=cheap look. photography is painting with light ... you get a superb pic with a low-budget cam with lots of light; search at YT for '3 point lighting' tutorials... you get with really cheap equip a professional 'look' - but with lights, not the cam itself...
• wide-angle - in rooms, a 30mm-lense could be too narrow.. depends on your recording situation, have an eye on that, test it.
• if your recordings are 'single shots' (=done in one take), consider a used/super cheap/low quality 2nd cam, to get a 2nd perspective for a sort-of b-roll... cut-aways avoid too much 'boredom' ... steal from the pros: if the pic-quality of that 2nd unit is ... cheap, make it b/w, add (!!) noise.
I've seen many 'instructional' videos (e.g. musicians) - 25min, one shot ... < snore, falling asleep > ... add at last a little movie-magic to your videos...

Looking for best compatible camcorder for Mac

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for