Looks as if th GSP is no more!

Ebay has done the impossible! The GSP is no longer alive and well on Ebay! The indicators that showed us that a seller was using GSP are gone! Now for the truth! Ebay has now hidden the fact that a seller is using GSP due to immense consumer criticism. That criticism was, in my very humble opinion well warranted. The GSP did absolutely nothing for Canadians, other than add time and expense to our purchases if, IF, we were stupid enough to buy from a seller in the USA who ships via GSP. Well Canadians rose up in anger, all one needs to do is read all the unfavourable comments on this site to know just how displeased we were. So GSP is no longer with us..It is however very much still alve in the USA where many of our purchases would normally come from. The 'Customs Service and brokerage' has been replaced with a miniscule warning that 'items may be subject to additional fees for customs and brokerage' warning. You, as Canadian buyers, are expected to just accept what they tell you to do. When you have purchased an item showing a shipping fee 'EXPECT there may be additional charges due'. What those additional charges may be shall be revealed to you when, and only when, you have committed to buy an item! No way to run a business on such subtrafuege, Ebay, you ought to be ashamed. Frankly I, as a Canadian buyer an very insulted by this gambit. I have items coming off in the next five days. Once they are complete, Ebay is welcome to continue their game with any Canadians dumb enough to continue. I won't be buying another item once the bids I have posted are complete.

ca_cunn wrote:
Case in point... I buy a non-GSP item and "Usually" it is out of the US and into Canada within four days, depending where it comes into Canada, it will 'usually' be in my hands with in four to five days after it lands at customs. I buy a GSP item, it must now travel to where the GSP sort Centre is and then turn around and be re-routed to Canada. The net benefit to me? at least twelve dollars that I must pay to Pitney Bowes for a service USPS provides free then they usually apply HST regardless of the value of the item AND an additional three to four days delay in delivery!. It is my understanding that items under twenty dollars are admitted without HST to Canada. Yet these folks routinely add 13% and label it HST. Far as I am concerned if the Americans are that paranoid about selling out side their "ZONE OF COMFORT, I won't bother to buy from them any more. I suspect the element of surprise on the extra charges issue may convince other Canadians to do likewise. That will help their sales won't it? Perhaps much of that is true for you in Ontario, but as a buyer in British Columbia, I've occasionally had to wait up to a month for parcel post items to reach me from the eastern United States. I'm not saying that the GSP would necessarily be much faster than that, but at least an item from New York wouldn't be taking a significant detour before being shipped by a freight carrier from KY to BC. By the way, I've never seen a sub-CDN$20 item sold through the GSP that's had what appears to be GST/PST applied to it. Can you provide an example? Perhaps those are duty charges that you're seeing? One of the GSP's many problems is that the program may miscalculate duty if the seller doesn't provide information on the item's country of origin. I've only purchased one item through the GSP--a mobile phone--but I likely wouldn't have purchased the item if it had been shipped by what other sellers were offering as an alternative: a pricey tracked service that may have seen me paying a schwack-load in brokerage fees upon or after receiving the item. I think these are the types of items for which the GSP was designed. Unfortunately, sellers of less expensive, less fraud-prone items either don't realize they're using the GSP or aren't aware just how much in additional fees their potential non-US buyers have to shell out in order to purchase their item. (Incidentally, thanks to a quirk in BC's tax regulations, I didn't have to pay PST on my phone, just GST.)

Similar Messages

When I first am looking at my newly uploaded photos in "Library", a box appears near the bottom of the photo that says "loading" (the photo looks good to me), then it is more "faded" and does not look as good. Is there some setting on that I am not aware

When I am first looking at my newly uploaded photos in "Library," a box appears near the bottom of the photo that says "Loading". While it is loading, I usually think the photo looks "good". After the photo is done loading, it looks more washed out. Is there some sort of setting that I might have on (or that I need to turn on) so that this does not happen. I have Lr4. Thanks.

Hi Tracy,
There used to be a way to see if poster was new to the forum.., anyway - welcome to the forum.
As I was alluding to, biggest differences in initial display are due to:
* Camera calibration profile.
* Auto-exposure/contrast settings (for which compensations have been auto-applied in camera, but not in Lightroom).
So, choose a matching camera calibration profile (whether that's an option or not depends on your camera model - they're available for many but not all models) if you prefer one of them over "Adobe Standard" (the factory default profile).
Also, your camera covers for underexposure due to non-optimal auto-exposure/contrast setting, Lightroom doesn't, so your options are:
* turn it off in camera.
* learn to compensate manually (or automatically via a plugin) in Lightroom.
Of course, in addition to preferred defaults (alt-click big "reset" button in dev module), come up with some presets which are appropriate for your druthers and type of photography.. e.g. these will compensate Nikon ADL settings:
http://www.robcole.com/LrForumSupport/ADL%20Compensations%20%282012%29.zip
Cheers,
Rob

Looking for more storage? Any reason to NOT get a classic?

Looking to upgrade to an ipod with more storage... Any benefits of getting an itouch or nano vs classic ipod? I only use it for music

More capacity than what?
If you currently have an MP3 player, that has 2Gb capacity, and you have 4GB of music, don't buy a 160GB Classic.
By all means though, consider the 16GB nano. Since you only want to use this iPod for music, why buy a Touch?
If you anticipate a massing a music collection above 16GB in the near future, then the nano won't be large enough. But you can always use Smart Playlists to limit what is on your iPod. With Smart Playlists automatically adding and removing music (according to rules you choose), it is possible for use a 16GB nano for a much larger music collection.

Looking to purchased a external hard drive, any suggestions?????

Hello My name is john...
I got a powerbook G4(500 Mhz) 15-inch screen, 30GB internal hard drive. I`m looking for an external hard drive to store my files( and to add more storage space)I looking for external hard drive like no more than $69.99 dollars....Something else....could anybody tell me the difference in getting a USB 2.0 port & FireWire????
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Passport-External-WDXMS600TN/dp/tech-data/ B000HZD2XK/ref=deasmtd/105-4949246-1849227?ie=UTF8&qid=1181576487&sr=8-6 Could anybody advised me If this is a good external HDD...pelase I would like it..If a lot of people could participate in this forum/discussion....to bring new ideas and suggestions and comments....
Cheers,
John

I know, that when it comes for asking the same questionnaire in all my forums all over again..its get a little bothersome, right???
Yes it does. Once is enough.
Your Tibook only has USB 1.1 ports, not USB 2 ports. You would be insane to buy a USB drive to use with it, unless you also buy a USB 2 adapter card for your CardBus slot. But we've already been all through that with you, in one of the dozen or more threads you've started while spinning your wheels and repeating yourself for the last three weeks.
If you can only find one drive for $69.99, and $69.99 is the most you're willing to spend, then your choice is already made, and you don't need any other recommendations.
There aren't a lot of people reading or responding to questions in the Tibook Discussions any more. If you look through the forums, you'll see that it's fairly unusual for more than three or four different people to post in any given thread lately. The likelihood that you will get a wide variety of responses to any question posted here is pretty small. That's too bad, perhaps, but that's the way it is.

QuickTime Pro - I am trying to find a way to retrieve my Quick Time Pro code and re-register it but, because I bought it more than 180 days ago, I cannot find the code anywhere, or any way to get an answer from Apple's website.

I have been going round in circles, trying to resolve this
I bought the MPEG2 component from the Apple UK store on 4th July 2010. I still have the email and the order number but they are no use to me because it is more than 180 days since I ordered this from them.
My operating system got corrupted and I had to do a clean install, then a return of the relevant files, folders and applications from my Time Machine. With that should have been my MPEG2 component for QuickTime Pro but it refuses to register.
I need it to convert my videos taken on my older video camera, which is a Sony, using mpeg2. I cannot look at any of these videos any more, which is deeply irritating. Still lots of editing to do.
I think it is a bit off if I have to buy it all over again
Any ideas?
Mac OS X 10.6.8
Quick Time and Quick Time 7

I still have the email and the order number but they are no use to me because it is more than 180 days since I ordered this from them.
The registration cade is contained in the email Apple sent you on purchasing.

What can you do with a Canon T4i? Look at this!

Here is an amazing scene of the Milky Way. It is shot entirely with a Canon T4i and a 10-22mm f3.5-4.5mm Canon lens. The lens was set at 10mm.
This was done by a good friend of mine that I worked with at Hallmark Cards in Kansas City for nearly 40 years. His name is Tom Martinez. He was a master of the darkroom not to mention a great photographer.
Since retirement he has devoted his time to astro-photography. He gives lectures and classes on how to do it. He has built over a dozen telescopes of different designs culminating with the 30” at our Powell Observatory near Warrensburg, Missouri.
Tom is published in many star magazines but here is his “Milky Way”.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_3jehZn7zQ&fmt=37
EB
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

Very nice job. It's so hard to find dark skies that can show the Milky Way anymore. I have to drive several hours to find a place with "ok" dark skies (not fantastic... but decent enough to see structure in the Milky Way.)
Even more amazing is that he managed to get three (mostly) cloudless nights in a row. That's something that hasn't happened for me all year -- not that I'm bitter about it or anything. ;-) (The weather in Michigan has _not_ be kind to us astronomers. Let's just say no parts on our telescopes are in any danger of wearing out due to excessive use.)
I appreciate that he put his exposure info at the end. Last year I used a 5D II and the EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM to take some Milky Way shots at the Great Lakes Star Gaze. I found I could take exposures up to about 45 seconds with no noticeable elongation of the stars. At about 1 minute I could see a tiny bit of elongation (stationary tripod... not tracking.) This year I have a 5D III and am looking forward to using that to do more imaging.
Thanks for sharing that.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

How to RECORD more than ONE TRACK at a time ? ? ?

I have looked, read and tried - but cannot enable more than one track at a time... How do you do it?
I am using a Lexicon Omega USB interface. With two mics plugged in to it, I am able to assign MIC 1 to a track, and MIC 2 onto a different track. However, cannot get BOTH tracks to go "live" at the same time.
Thanx: Stacey

"basic track" is a short cut. whenever i explain something to someone recording an audio instrument i always tell them to create s New Basic Track. it's simple, to the point, has no effects on it (and you can add those later, anyway, the BEST way to do it)
however, either would not cause the issues you're dealing with at the moment, both are valid. Basic just skips a step.

Can't look at laptop screen without getting migraines - any ideas?

Hi all,
I used my last 15 inch macbook pro bought around 2007 for many hours every day without any problems before it recently gave up the ghost. I then purchased the latest 13 inch macbook pro model a couple of weeks ago.
However, it seems I can't look at my new laptop screen for more than about 10 minutes without my eyes feeling a bit odd and blurry and me ultimately getting a migraine and feeling sick, and having to lie down if I spend any longer than say half an hour at the computer. The obvious thing would be that the brightness is too high or low but i get the same result with differing brightness, and i've also tried increasing the zoom so text size is not too small, as obviously this is a smaller laptop than before.and it doesnt seem anywhere as bad with other laptop screens.
I've been to the doctors who don't seem to think there's anything medically wrong with me, has anyone else had similar problems with these macbook screens? did apple use a different technology on the screens recently that affected people?
Many thanks for any advice!!

A small minority of users suffer from severe eyestrain, headaches, and other adverse effects when using MBP screens. Theories vary widely about what is to blame: the LED backlighting (though all MBP screens have been backlit with LEDs since the first MBP models); the glossy screens in many models, including all 13" models; the brightness or dimness setting at which the screens are used, the small size of the type on high-resolution models, etc., etc. Most users have no problem with any of these things and are happy using their MBPs, but for some the screen is really a problem, and no one workaround or remedy seems to work for all of those who are uncomfortably affected.
There is an interminable thread here on this subject (or subjects, since it's possible that more than one thing is at work). You may want to read some of the posts in it for ideas about things to try:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1677617?start=0&tstart=0
Be aware that like most very long threads in these forums, this one contains some misinformation, many unsupported opinions and untested theories, some good information and reasonable test data, lots of ideas, a certain amount of useless complaining, a few flames, and lots of "I have the same problem!" posts that don't make it clear exactlly what problem they're taking about. You'll have to use your own good judgment about what to take from it.

Looking for suitable gps app for iPhone

I'm looking for a recommendation for a suitable app for my phone. I'd like a GPS program that points me to how far away a point is and in which direction.
Basically, my Dad, before he died, had a proper GPS and programmed in some of our family relatives for when he was sailing. Now he's passed on I like the idea of where he and some other relatives are buried and I'd like something that, wherever I am, can tell me that, for example, my Dad is X miles away and in which direction.
I'm not looking for a routemaster app or anything more complex.
I can't see anything suitable - is there something out there that can do this?

Check out MotionX-GPS in the app store or at their web site (http://news.motionx.com/category/motionx-gps/).
You can enter waypoints in a number of ways, and once you have saved on, you can use their "search wheel" to follow a track you've recorded, get range and bearing to a waypoint, point to a lat/long coordinate. It takes a bit of time to learn, but it is a pretty cool app.

Looking for laser printer recommendations (please read!)

I couldn't find a spot that fit this question and although I may not receive any answers here, this is a very active forum with members who are unafraid of new technology, so here's letting one rip...
OK, I've not had a laser printer in a number of years - when my beloved LaserWriter II NTX gave up the ghost. I find that I am lately, however, printing more and more text-only or text-heavy documents at home and going through black ink cartridges like a hungry lumberman through flapjacks. Although I've not looked into laser technology for years, I am wondering if it may not be more economical to print these pages on a 'personal' laser printer (I know that toner cartridges are not cheap, either, but they are less expensive, from what I've read, than using inkjet to print text-heavy documents) than to continue racking up rebate dollars by selling my soul for black ink cartridges.
So I am looking for a laser printer that can handle about 2,500-4,000 pages a month AND (here's the kicker!) have automatic duplex printing capabilities... I've never had this ability on a laser printer but I understand it's available on some models these days.
I'm not looking for an 'office capable' printer - maybe more like a 'small office'? No real need for Ethernet, yet, if it's a standard feature, I would certainly use it. A small footprint would be nice.
As I wander into the local Office Depot I am overwhelmed by the choices and yet stupefied to find that the 'hang tags' on many of the models don't really give too much information - page one can expect from a cartridge, connectivity options, duplexing capabilities (I seem to find none, yet am certain that I've read of their existence).
So my criteria:
1. monochrome
2. PostScript emulation (unless CUPS supports lasers? It'd difficult to tell by the ad hype yet Apple does seem to have drivers or, at least, Brother and HP laser printers). I don't want to be limited to 72 typefaces...
3. automated duplexing
4. small footprint
5. more economical to operate than an inkjet at 2,500-4000 pages per month
6. networkable, though served through another CPU via USB is fine
7. brand is not important - as long as reliability is high (and, like Brother, for instance, is supported by Apple)
Please leave a message if you should have ANY suggestions or, if you can point me towards a website with a good overview of what's available (and with actual tests would even be better!) I would be very appreciative.

Jamie,
I just wanted to thank you once again for your suggestion of the HP LaserJet 1320. I picked one up last week at Office Depot and, after I receive my $50 mail-in rebate, my total cost will have been $139.99!
The printer itself had an 'instant savings' of $100 off the SRP of $399.99 (and - for those who might be interested - this instant savings continues until June 30 - see the HP website for details.), bring it down to $299.99; I had an $100 Office Depot 'rewards' card plus a $10 'instant off' coupon from the previous week, bringing it down to $189.99 and there was a mail-in rebate for $50 (which, according to the paperwork, I can expect within 6 weeks) so... I was able to get a $400 printer for less than $140 (+ tax, of course).
Still, even with $14 tax, I have to assume that I would have paid at least as much in shipping AND I only had to drive for less than 5 miles, spend 20 minutes explaining why I did not want or need either the extended warranty or the Super Special Laser Printer Official Office Depot Very Special Customer Service Box (a cable, some paper, and a few other doodads for $60) and now I've printed a couple of hundred sheets and love the thing.
Had it not been for your recommendation, I likely would have forgotten the $100 Office Depot card until it expired and would not have sought out the printer there in the first place.
It's such a warm and fuzzy feeling to get such a deal on such a terrific little printer... and, so, I thank you, again.

How to get more experienced ?

The last 1.5 year I have been getting into programming more and more. I have been dabbling a bit in C++ ( just very basic things like processing a huge csv file lightning fast ) and started to learn python ( which I started to like very much already ) but mostly have been using php for building websites with a 'simple' custom cms. I reached a point where I'm pretty capable of doing the things I need for that kind of work and I'm learning more and more every day but still feel like I'm miles away from the 'serious' stuff.
Does anyone here has some tips / thoughts on what to do next to progress and learn how to program properly instead of my probably quite ineffecient 'trial and error' way of doing things. ( tail -f is my friend )
I already learned about OOP and I'm currently studying about MVC but haven't been really doing any real hands on stuff with it. I also have been coding everything without using any frameworks until now but maybe I should look into one when wanting to some more serious things ?
Last edited by redcomet (2011-02-16 23:58:16)

I have been programming as a hobby on and off since I was 16. I started with Visual Basic 3.0 making "addons" for AOL when it was "cool." Anyways, I am still no expert by any means. Not by a long shot, but I _KNOW_ I will be one day if I put my nose to the grindstone and hit the code head first. I am pretty good with C, Python, Bash, Vala, and Lua. I can sort of code in C++, but I don't really like it. I have made a constant effort to get into C++, but in writing a Gtk3 program, the C++ bindings weren't being updated fast enough so I grew frustrated. Maybe I will return to it again in the future. C++ is an important (and massive) language to get a grasp of. Here are my tips that I use to take control of my learning process:
1. CODE. This is the most important thing. Whatever language you decide to use, you have to use it! At least everyday. I make sure I get in at least 2 hours a day of coding. Since I am not a professional coder, this is vital to my success (er, future success, i'm still learning). When I get "wired in" I usually block access to my favorite sites in "/etc/hosts" so I can stay focused. Once I get going, I'm usually very productive, especially in python
2. Study! I read a lot about programming. There are a bunch of blog you can goto and read professional opinions about techniques. I like going to reddit.com/r/programming for cool stuff.
3. Read lots of source code. This is what I do most of the time, especially when I am trying to figure something out. Here, grep is your friend. Often I find myself doing this for Gtk apps because the documentation is lacking. I visit git.gnome.org everday to see whats new and read lots of code, usually on my lunch break.
4. Read K&R, and do the exercises. This book not only teaches C, it teaches good old fashioned programming techniques. Not tremendously useful when writing apps with glib, but still helpful.
5. When I see crazy code that completely blows my mind, I don't let it faze me. This is so true for OOP in C (like gobject). It just make me go WTF some times. When this happens, I take a breath, and start at the most logical point and work my way from there. I take lots of notes. And grep, lots and lots of grep queries. When I still can't figure it out, I hit google. The absolutely last resort is irc.
Hope this helps.

Exported PDF looks beautiful in Pages and Preview not in Acrobat Reader

Hi, I need a little help. I created an eBrochure in Pages which looks beautiful. When I export it to PDF, it looks amazing in Preview but not in Adobe Acrobat Reader; pictures doesn't look so bright and shiny, they loom more opaque. Also fonts look kind of weird. I went to Photoshop and tried to do it there, it looks better in Acrobat Reader but texts don't print as nice as the Pages one (photos do). So my problem I guess is with the photos on Pages... What can I do to ensure that my document created in Pages and exported to PDF can have the same quality in the Reader as it has in Preview?
Photos are in JPEG format and have a decent resolution I guess:
File Size 1.4 MB
With: 1200 pixels
Height: 1800 pixels
Resolution: 300 pixels/ inch
Pixel Dimensions: 6.18M
Pages computer is a MBA, 1.6 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, OS X 10.5.7, Pages '09 4.0.2
Thanks.

As far as I know, there is no provision for such settings in these programs.
Developer documentation for ICC colour management in Firefox 2, Firefox 3 and Firefox 3.5, see below. Firefox 3 has ICC colour management disabled by default. Firefox 3.5 has ICC colour management for images within which there is embedded an ICC source colour space profile. It is possible to set Firefox to colour manage the application windows as well as images with embedded ICC profiles. The developer documentation discusses how to do this in what sounds suspiciously like a command line / terminal tool, and also how to point Firefox 3.5 to the display profile. This in turn sounds suspiciously like Firefox 3.5 is unable to talk to the system level service and ask for the display profile automatically.
Camino and Opera ... I'll pass. I suspect it's more of the same mess.
/hh
Reference:
https://developer.mozilla.org/En/ICCcolor_correction_inFirefox

I am so disgusted with Verizon CS. Six hours over two days on the phone to upgade a phone and my plan. More to come, but I have names, and even a direct phone number to a "supervisor". I'll be posting more... The incompetence of EVERYONE (which is alm

I'll be posting all the details of this tomorrow.

So, I'm back, the OP.
As briefly as i can:
Two phone family, currently one smart, one dumb phone. The dumb is eligible for upgrade.
Call into V and spoke with "Anthony" to get info on what plan(s) I might consider as I upgrade the dump to a new iPhone 6. Currently an old "grandfathered in" Nationwide 700 plan. This was Friday Sept 19. Get some info, which I assumed to be correct, including the fact, his words not mine, that the "upgrade (device) fee" can be negotiable.
Before I had any first hand knowledge, I assumed that I'd better get a "second opinion" so I drove over to my local Verizon (corporate) store. Well, I got a different story, including the percentage of my employee discount on service, my employer gives a 20% discount and has for years, I have my current statement / bill in my hand. But no.... Verizon guy says that is wrong, its only 18%. I ask him about upgrade fee being negotiable. He says no, never. So what had I learned? That V guy on the phone from Friday was either lying or just ignorant.
Soooooo.... now its Tuesday, Sept 23. The "BIG" day, day of 3 hours 50 minutes on the phone with SEVEN different V people, all of them telling me something different about what plan(s) I'm eligible for, your employee discount is 17, no 18, no 20 percent. Yes we can negotiate an upgrade fee, no we can't... At one point, now a couple hrs into it I say I've had enough, I want to talk to a supervisor. "I'm sorry sir, supers can't come to the phone" WHAT? Well later, once I did speak to a first level supervisor and then a second level I of course found out that was wrong - more lies / misinformation? The supervisor took the name of that V CS rep and looked at my every growing call log and said that he would speak to the CS rep.
So, nearing the 3 hrs mark into my attempt to find out about plans and buy an upgraded phone for my plan I reach "Brian". I have his direct number. Apparently he is something more important that the past 6 people I've spoken to over the past thee hrs. I tell him: "EVERY SINGLE PERSON I've spoken to so far has told me something different, and or contradicted what the last person I've spoken to has said!!!!!" Yes you can have 2 single line plans, no you can't, to get this plan your upgrading device has to be on the "Edge" plan, no it doesn't, your employers discount applies to the bottom line, no it doesn't, only to the data, and on, and on, and on.
Sooooooo I tell Brian, "here's how its going to go... YOU are going to wave the upgrade fee. I don't care where the money comes from, V or right out of your pocket. I've been on the phone for now closing in on FOUR HOURS...."
Sooooo he agrees. I laugh and tell him, "You know, it has nothing to do with the money, not its all about screwing V as much as I can, and wasting yours and V's time."
He says, order your phone and plan this week and I'll call you Friday (today Sept 26) and then credit your account the fee.
Soooo yesterday (Sept 25) I call in to do just that, order the phone and plan, WHICH I was told really the only plan that would suit you would be a More Everything Plan. So, ok that's that.
I speak to a CS / Sales rep. I buy the phone and then we go on to the plan. I tell the rep THIS WHOLE LONG STORY, and it looks like we are heading towards the More Everything, BUT she says to me, "you know, you could do that Single Line plan for BOTH of your phones?" I say "WHAT????" I was told by two reps NO, and two reps "Well.... maybe". This plan gets me everything I want AND saves me $10 a mo.
Sooooo we go for that, BUT.... I can't change my plan (from current Nation Wide 700) to 2 two single line plans until I activate my new phone (which will be 4 weeks until I get it - iPhone 6), SOOOOO once it arrives I HAVE TO CALL BACK TO V and switch - how much fun will that be??? MORE time (hours?) with V.
So we agree.... The rep says I just have to transfer you to our automated system where you'll agree to terms and conditions.. Fine. Up comes the computer voice... and.... it says "hello.... you are upgrading your device (123) 555-1234 (it gives a real number), press 1 if this is correct." WHAT???? That is NOT the phone number of my device ***? The auto system gives me the option to press another number to "enter a different number", so I do, AND...... The call disconnects.
Now... If I could track down ANY ONE OF THE PAST 8 PEOPLE I'D SPOKEN TO OVER THE PAST TWO DAYS, YOU'D BE READING ABOUT ME - "Upset customer KILLS everyone at V". I AM SO ******* ****** OFF AT V... I'm now into 2 hrs today, plus the nearly 4 hrs the other day on the phone.
Soooooo.... I call back, have to tell the story again, this time to "Nick" in N.Y. Nick says just go on line to your account, you can accept the terms there. Well, what do you know.... It works, amazing.
But.... Nick says great and reads back the info on the phone I bought and says "...and I see you are on the More Everything Plan..." WHAT, STOP, STOP, STOP. I tell Nick, "Nope, I am not, I never agreed to that, I'm waiting, keeping my old plan for 4 weeks until I get the new phone, THEN I'm to call back (oh joy) to V and upgrade my plan"
Nick say's well you have the More Everything plan, and it is costing you $10 more a month, BUT I can't un-do it because there is a purchase (my phone) in progress... I am not BEYOND MAD. We are now at SIX HOURS TOTAL TIME ON THE ******* PHONE OVER TWO DAYS.
I ask to speak to Nick's supervisor. Melanie comes on the line. I, weather she wants to hear it or not, TELL HER THE ENTIRE STORY, that when (and GOD help him if he doesn't) Brian, the top end supervisor calls on Friday (today) to check on my experience buying the phone / upgrading the plan AND to credit my account the upgrade fee, I'm going to have to tell him about EVERYTHING THAT'S HAPPENED TODAY and about the TWO MORE HOURS ON THE PHONE. Melanie says, yes you do now have a More Everything... All I can do sir is apply a credit back to your account for the difference in cost between your old (what was my current) and the new More Everything (the plan I NEVER agreed to be on).
So, that is where we are as of now, Friday Sept 26 AM. "Brain" said he'd be calling by noon-ish Pacific time. I've got his direct number, and If I don't here from him by noon, his phone will be ringing off the hook very 30 seconds until he picks up.
My experience to simply upgrade one of the two phones on my plan and the plan itself HAS BEEN A NIGHTMARE. VERIZON is sooo SCREWED UP. NO TWO PEOPLE KNOW THE SAME INFO, and the INEPTITUDE displayed is sickening.

Two day wait to get defective iPhone to be LOOKED AT by 'genius'??

I'm very disappointed that Apple does not offer walk-in service on defective iPHONE ?
I talked to two stores in San Diego and both say that I can come in and wait on standby tomorrow and that it usually takes 3 hours before someone will look at your phone, or, I can make an appointment in two days - but the only hours available are during the hours when I have to work (that's 9-5.)
Oh, and it they find it to be defective (slider not working and typing freezing about 20% of the time) they can't confirm that they'll have a replacement in stock.
Apple, here's a suggestion:
1)Assign one, or two, or three geniuses to just look at defective iPhones, at least during this initial period. Make your supply of labor equal demand for their services. If you have to hire more labor do it.
2)Don't make people wait longer than an hour to have something as important as their phones looked at. Many of us have more than one computer, but how many have multiple phones that ring at the same number?
3)Have more staff available fomr 5-8, when most of us can find a little time to go to the crowded mall. After 8pm does not work well for a lot of working folks.

And a suggestion for you - call AppleCare instead at (800) 694-7466 and handle everything over the phone.
AppleCare will send a box via Fed-Ex to your house or business for your iPhone to be shipped back. The return label will be located under the shipping label to you, along with tape to reseal the box. When ready, you call Fed-Ex to have the box picked up.
AppleCare will offer you a loaner iPhone to be used in the interim - the policy is to charge $29 for the loaner iPhone but if you ask nicely, you may be able to get the fee for the loaner iPhone waived. AppleCare will require a credit card number to cover the loaner in case it isn't returned or if returned damaged. If you were an at&t subscriber before purchasing an iPhone and you still have your previous phone, you can use your iPhone's SIM card with that phone instead.
The entire process takes 5 business days or less including Fed-Ex priority overnight shipping in both directions with the exchange (if exchanged) delivered to your door or business without having to make an appointment or wait on standby at an Apple Store.

Harm, looking for a quick answer on a RAID question...

I bought a G-Speed ES drive with the G-Tech RAID card, set up the drive yesterday, initialized it (took 9 hours!) as a RAID-5, and in the initiallization settings window I was asked what sector size I wanted. I did some quick research and found that bigger sectors are better with bigger files, so choose the maximum size available to me under the hardware RAID, which was 4k (I'm assuming that's 4096). Came into the office this morning and found the drive had finished the initilization and that Windows required me to create a "simple volume" on it before it could be used. I'm in the process of doing that, and have found that Windows is asking me to set a sector size again: This time my maximum option is 64k. Do I want to go with the maximum option of 64k, or do I have to use the 4096 which the hardware RAID used in initializing the array?

David,
This may be informative: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/wd-4k-sector,2554-3.html
With a sector size or cluster size of 4 KB, data are distributed across the partition in 4 KB parts. Suppose you have a 10 KB file, three full clusters will be occupied: 4 KB - 4 KB - 2 KB. The remaining 2 KB is called slackspace and can not be used by other files. With a block size (stripe) of 64 KB, data are distributed across the array disks in 64 KB parts. Suppose you have a 200 KB file, the first part of 64 KB is located on disk A, the second 64 KB is located on disk B, the third 64 KB is located on disk C and the remaining 8 KB on disk D. Here there is no slackspace, because the block size is subdivided into clusters. When working with audio/video material a large block size is faster than smaller block size. Working with smaller files a smaller block size is preferred.
Sometimes you have an option to set 'Chunk size', depending on the controller. It is the minimal size of a data request from the controller to a disk in the array and only useful when striping is used. Suppose you have a block size of 16 KB and you want to read a 1 MB file. The controller needs to read 64 times a block of 16 KB. With a chunk size of 32 KB the first two blocks will be read from the first disk, the next two blocks from the next disk, and so on. If the chunk size is 128 KB. the first 8 blocks will be read from the first disk, the next 8 block from the second disk, etcetera. Smaller chunks are advisable with smaller filer, larger chunks are better for larger (audio/video) files.
What you see as 'sector size' from Windows is better called the block size and for video you can best choose the maximum, in this case 64 KB.
BTW, also have a look at Adobe Forums: How to access more than 2 TB of disk...

Looks as if th GSP is no more!

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