LR 4 AVCHD support - how to preserve quality for future use?

I was excited to see that LR 4 would support the AVCHD format, but I've run into a bit of a Catch-22. I have a Panasonic Lumix GH2 that records very good video in AVCHD format, and previous to LR 4 I've had to use Final Cut Pro to import the video files from the SD card, which can be hard to remember to do (a dumb problem, but a real one). So with LR 4 being able to import and work with AVCHD files, it's a step forward, but the question becomes how to preserve maximum qualtiy of the files for future, possibly professional, use.
AVCHD is of course a compressed format, and so is h.264. When I saw that one can export from LR 4 in "Original" format, I assumed it would be possible to establish a workflow wherein the files could be imported from the card into LR 4, then, if desired, exported (using "Original" format) and imported into Final Cut in Apple Pro Res format (minimal compression) for instance.
But the problem is that Final Cut doesn't see anything valid in the directory structure that LR creates in its export process, whereas it does see valid files when it's pointed to the original files on the card. Is it a simple problem of directory sturcture?
I think there should be more professional export options for AVCHD files, such as Apple Pro Res, or an uncompressed format. At the very least, there should be a simple and obvious workflow in which LR imports the files and, in copying the files from the card, creates the directory structure that apps such as Final Cut need in order to see the video files.
Thanks

Hi,
DSS has inbuilt functionalities to compare the transactions against the in built rules.If the transactions take place not in accordance with the in-built rules,it is treated as a "violation" and is reporetd.
Virsa is an example of DSS tool.Here you can build rules for access and process ;constantly compare the actuals Vs the rules;report the violations.
In SAP R3 for example,the T/code:pfcg is tailored for access control,while the invoice parking [f-63] is tailored for process control.Using VIRSA,you can address to risks involved both,namely,access and process control.This is an example of how DSS can help in Risk integration.
In these tools,we have an Engine for building the rules-based on this we build the rules.These rules are stored in a table.when a transaction-for which we have built a rule - takes place,the system compares the rules VS actuals.The inconsistencies if any are reported as violations.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Ramesh

Similar Messages

How can I export songs with full info (INCLUDING LYRICS) to file for future use? [x]

Hi everyone,
I got my new iPod touch 4th gen, and I spend literally all day to edit songs' info like Artist, Lyrics, Album... with like thousand songs.. Then I've tried to export them fully for future use as back up, but I could not find any option to do so. Exporting library and playlist only saves info for basic tags but no lyrics in it. So what should I do? I've tried iTunes Export and mp3Tag but I still could not do it.
I would appreciate much any help for me to back up full information of songs for future use.
Regards,
[x]

Thanks for the responses.
I forgot to mention the dimensions I need the file to be at, sorry. Overnight Prints requires that the uploaded file be at 2.13 inches wide by 6.13 inches high (or 638 by 1838 pixels) at 300 dpi. I think I understand what Scott Falkner means by pixels are not a unit of measure. However, I have been using inches in Illustrator, with the file being set to the height and width (in inches) required by Overnight Prints.
Here is what I have uploaded to Overnight Prints so far:
- Illustrator file set to 2.13 inches wide by 6.13 inches high – Upload preview on Overnight Prints is correct size, but shows the bookmark as pixelated/blurry.
- Saved above Illustrator file as copy: “Press Quality Preset” PDF – Upload preview on Overnight Prints is correct size, but the bookmark is still pixelated/blurry.
- Exported same Illustrator file as a PNG (638 pixels wide by 1838 pixels high - 300dpi) – Upload preview on Overnight Prints is correct size, but shows the bookmark as pixelated/blurry.
- Creating an Illustrator file at 638 by 1838 pixels makes any file that is uploaded preview on Overnight Prints as too large, but not pixelated/blurry (I think I now understand why, just covering all my bases).
So, I guess my more specific question would be:
How can I create a file that I can upload to Overnight Prints (TIF, PDF, JPG, EPS, PNG, or AI) that ends up at the dimensions (in inches) required, while not appearing (at least in the upload preview) as low resolution (pixelated/blurry)?
Thanks in advance for any responses (especially to such a novice question).

How to make a photo STAY in the assets panel for future use for In browser editing?

How to make a photo STAY in the assets panel for future use for In browser editing?
When I delete a photo from a page, it does not stay in the assets panel. My client uses in browser editing daily. Once a week he changes a photo just for a day, then needs the previous photo to replace it. The original photo is not in the asset panel (or folder) for him to choose.
When you upload a photo, it has an arrow in the asset panel. How do you use this as an asset?

Sure ... right mouse click on your page and choose 'Exclude Page from Menus' :-)

How do I drag an image or text box to the "workspace" off of my working file but where I can still see the image and text box for future use?

How do I drag an image or text box to the "workspace" off of my working file but where I can still see the image and text box for future use?
When I drag the item off of the trifold that I am creating, it just disappears but I still want to use it. I just need to move it out of the way to modify other portions of the document.
thanks,
C

Add another page below the current one to use as a storage area. You can't use the grey area around the page for storing items you want to use later.
Go to the Pages Menu>Provide Pages Feedback if you would like to request this feature be added in future versions.

HOw do I save a form once it is completed for future use in windows 7

How do I save an adobe form once I have completed it for future use? I have windows 7 and the only option is to save a blank form.

That could be caused by a couple of reasons.
If it is an IRS form, they use a server side solution to enable forms so Reader users can save them. It's very expensive and word is that they have not updated this solution to work with the latest versions of Reader. So you would have to use the older version.
With the new version of Acorbat, people can now enable forms so Reader users can save them (which is a much cheaper solution than the above scenario) but you need Adobe Reader 7 or better to use this function.

How do I make groups for texting multiple people at a time and retain that group for future use?

How do I make goups, in Contacts, for texting multiple people at a time and retain that group for future use?

How do I make goups, in Contacts, for texting multiple people at a time and retain that group for future use?

How can scan coins for web use?

How can scan coins for web use?

Did you Google "Scanning Coins"?
http://www.telecoins.com/scanning.html
If you have a specific question after reading the (somewhat dated) article, please post back!

How do you pay for apps using an iTunes gift card. I have money on a gift card but only my credit card shows up as method of payment.

How do you pay for apps using an iTunes gift card. I have money on a gift card but only my credit card shows up as method of payment.

After establishing the Credit Card account (i.e. after you have made purchases), you can remove the credit card information by editing your payment info, choosing "None".
Settings>iTunes and App Stores>Apple ID>View Apple ID>Sign-in>Payment Information

How to change language for iCloud support, How to change language for iCloud support, How to change language for iCloud support

Apple support .comunicate with me using Netherland language , all comunication , email, and everything connected with support comunicate in Netherland language , but i'm Italian and i cannot understand!
How can i change this?

http://www.apple.com/support/icloud/contact/ and set your language using the link in the bottom right-hand corner.

How to preserve old dtd when using writetofile method

Hi,
I have one doubt.How to preserve the dtd of xmlfile before parsing it with the xml parser for pl/sql ,write this saved dtd to the document object and use to writofile method of the dom object.If this is possible then can anyone ,please give me suggestions.
I illustrate the situation ,given below is the dtd of the file before parsing :-
<!DOCTYPE family [
<!ELEMENT family (member*)>
<!ATTLIST family lastname CDATA #REQUIRED>
<!ELEMENT member (#PCDATA)>
<!ATTLIST member memberid ID #REQUIRED>
<!ATTLIST member dad IDREF #IMPLIED>
<!ATTLIST member mom IDREF #IMPLIED>
]>
After parsing and using the writetofile method ,the dtd present below is the changed dtd of the new xml file.
<!DOCTYPE family [
<!ELEMENT member ANY>
<!ATTLIST member memberid ID >
]>
Can anyone say how to stop this.Any help would be great
Regards
gopal

Hi, Kiran,
As the others have said, the only way ^1^ to get the result set in any particular order is to use an ORDER BY clause.
Here's the general way to do that in SQL in case of a UNION:
WITH union_results     AS
     select 'a' AS txt, 1 AS sort_key from DUAL
    union
     select 'd',        2             from DUAL
    union
     select 'b',        3           from DUAL
    union
     select 'c',        4           from dual
SELECT    txt
FROM       union_results
ORDER BY sort_key
;In SQL, you can only ORDER BY expressions that arei n the SELECT clause, so to avoid displaying sort_key, the sub-query is necessary. A lot of people don't use pure SQL for this; they have their front end hide the sort_key column. In SQL*Plus, for example, you can say COLUMN sort_key NOPRINT.
^1^ There is one exception, which does NOT apply to this case, or most others. CONNECT BY, even without ORDER BY, does impose a partial ordering.

Creating the Best Video Quality for YouTube Using FCE

Hey guys, have a quick question. I'm making drum covers for YouTube, and I want the best possible quality for my viewers. I use Final Cut Express 4.0.1 on my MacBook Pro, and Log and Transfer the video footage from a HDR-CX160 Sony AVCHD Handycam. What are my best options?
Thank you!
Justin

In every aspect of life there is no such thing as one best option as it all depends on your particular circumstances.
Here is a good starting point for you to decide what suits you best.
When you have edited your project in FCE try these settings:-
Select File>Export>Using QT Conversion.
Click the "Options" button and when the the Options window opens you will see "Size", "Settings" and "Sound" buttons.
Click the Size button and set 1920 x 1080
Click the Settings button and select:-
Compression Type . . . . H.264
Frame Rate . . . . . . . . . Current
Key Frames . . . . . . . . . Automatic
Compressor Quality . . . High
Encoding . . . . . . . . . . "Faster" encode will give almost the same quality as "Best" but is twice as fast - your decision!
Data Rate . . . . . . . . . . Restrict to 10,000kbps (Don't use a comma when you enter the number)
Then click the "Audio" button and make sure that AAC has been selected.
These settings should give very good quality results fairly quickly, which should play well. Your file size will be around 5GB per hour.
Some people prefer to use the smaller 1280 x 720, in which case the Data Rate should be 5,000kbps.
I suggest you do a quick test with a film under one minute long to see how it looks as there is nothing worse than spending hours encoding a long project only to find that the settings were unsuitable.

How can i save my annotations for future use?

Hi,
I have several ePub files in iBooks that I annotated, with the highliter as well as the post-it feature.
Now how can I save those for fututre use? I'm not talking about iTunes sync/restore. I'm talking about removing the book from the iPad and use it back in, say, 4 years, or even pass it to someone else along WITH the highlighted sections.
In a word: keep the book with the annotations on the side OR keep the book embeding the annotations.
This is for ePub of course, not purchased in iTunes, but free books or purchsed ePub from external sources (like O'Reilly).
After playing with DiskAid, I got a copy of the internal annotation database (my iPad is not jailbroken) and was able to see all the notes in it. But any existing tool to actually extract and link those notes to a specific book would be exactly what I would need...
Possible? Hopefully yes...
Thanks for any help.
Steve

Anyone?

How to setup comis. for future account

our local cuurency is JPY, we configured a future product type 903, the commission is 500 JPY per lot for future, if we buy 3 lots, then it will be 1500 JPY
anyone know the steps to setup commission for future accounts

Hello erinfromla,
It sounds like this article will be useful for you.
iCloud: Set up iCloud Mail on your devices and computers
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH2621
Make sure that you're setting the account up through System Preferances:
"2. Choose Apple menu > System Preferences, then click iCloud and sign in with either your Apple ID (the one you use with iCloud) or your @icloud.com email address."
That should get you up and running.
- Griff W.

How to Preserve Transparency for Printing on Silver Vinyl (and Avoid Flattening Artifacts)

I have an Illustrator file that contains a number of icons that are "Placed" transparent Photoshop files (i.e. they were never flattened so there is no white background in any of these placed icon files). The Illustrator file is being printed by a commercial printer on silver vinyl and then cut on a cutting machine. Before giving the file to the printer I have been instructed to do the Object => Flatten Transparency operation to make sure that no artifacts are created during this process. (The file must be flattened because the cutting machine requires that this be done.) My problem is that when I do this a white rectangle artifact is created around each of the icons--and obviously this is not what I want to see when I am printing on silver vinyl! (I have read that one way to ensure that these artifacts are not created would be to select the layer containing all the icons, and then select the layer underneath it, so that the icons are flattened "onto" something. But in this case, there is no "layer beneath!") Does anyone know of a type of "fake" layer that I could put under the icons that would make the Flattening process work--but not impact the look of the silver vinyl? Does anyone have any other type of solution? (I am new to Illustrator and am basically desperate to get this problem solved!) Thank you very much in advance.

They are 720 dpi images being printed on the silver vinyl by a Roland XJ640 inkjet printer
Knowing now that the images in question are, in fact, full-color raster images, the first thing I would ask the printer is this: "Since you are printing onto silver vinyl, how are you going to "back up" the color images with areas of white so that the process color renders correctly?" The references I looked at suggest this is a six-head inkjet printer using 4-color process (CMYK). That would make it a "process plus 2 (spot color)" device.
The lists of compatible inks I saw included a metallic silver and an opaque white. So that suggests two ways this might be being printed:
Depending on the resulting area of "background" silver in the finished pieces, it could be practical for the project to actually be printed on white vinyl, not silver, and the silver "background" would actually be one of the printed inks. Typically, to accomplish that in a program like Illustrator, you would enclose your full-color raster images in a clipping path of the desired shape, draw a background shape behind the clipped raster images which will bleed beyond the eventual cut paths, and fill that background shape with a spot color Swatch which is named so as to be recognized by the software driving the device as its silver ink.
If the vinyl is, in fact, silver, then a white object needs to be printed first, and the CMYK inks printed on top of it. Typically, to accomplish that in a program like Illustrator, you would draw shapes surrounding your images in the desired shapes, and fill those shapes with a spot color Swatch which is named so as to be correctly recognized by the software driving the device. It is usually more convenient to position these objects in front of the CMYK images and set them to overprint. Or, if they are positioned behind the images, then the images themselves need to be set to overprint or the CMYK inks could be set to overprint in the Separations section of the Print dialog of whatever software is actually doing the printing.
The icons on the globe pattern are very small 1440 dpi placed Photoshop files....printing at 1440 dpi with bicubic interpolation...
This is a common misconception about printer resolution. Knowing that a given inkjet printer has a hardware resolution of 1440 dpi does not mean that maximum detail is going to be achieved if the full-color raster images are 1440 PPI.
1440 DPI is not the "extremely high resolution" it sounds like to some. To understand, consider normal commerical offset printing: A typical PostScript imagesetter has a hardware resolution of 3000 SPI (printer Spots Per Inch). And compared to the relatively "fuzzy" dots that are created by an inkjet device effectively "spraying" droplets of liquid ink on a sheet, the printer spots of an imagesetter are sharp-edged dots made by exposing a photo emulsion on film with a laser. And yet, designers wanting maximum fidelity and detail when printing full-color raster images do not go around creating their raster images at 3000 PPI, do they? Why not?
Here's the deal: Whether you are talking about inkjet composite printing or imagesetting, printing full-color images involves process color. "Process color" means you use little tiny dots of (usually) just four primary colors of inks to simulate all the colors in the image. In order for those little tiny dots to simulate other colors, they must do one of two things: They have to either vary in size (halftone screening), or they have to vary in number (stochastic screening) across a given area.
Common commercial offset printing employs the first method, halftone screening. Remember: the resolution of the imagesetter is 3000 SPI. In other words, that imagesetter just does one thing: It creates spots which measure 1/3000 inch. That's a fixed function of the mechanical hardware; the imagesetter cannot vary the size of the spots it creates. So how does it print the variable-size dots required by halftone screening? Here's how: Each of the variable-size halftone dots (the dots of ink that will actually be printed) are built up out of the much smaller printer spots.
This raises the question, how many printer spots are available to build up the shape of each halftone dot? That's where the halftone ruling (expressed in LPI; Lines Per Inch) comes in. And that's the value (halftone LPI) that you consider when determining best PPI for your images. The rule-of-thumb is one-to-two times the halftone ruling. For example, 175 LPI is considered above-average printing in offset lithography. It's one step above the most commonly used "magazine quality" of 150 LPI. So assuming a project being printed on quality coated stock at a halftone ruling of 175 LPI, appropriate raster image PPI would be 175-to-350. Using more is just needlessly wasting data that is going to effectively be "averaged away" anyway ("oversampling"). It can, in fact, degrade the printed results. Note that that's a far cry from 3000, the hardware resolution of the imaging device.
Composite inkjet printing nowadays commonly employs the second method, stochastic screening (also called FM screening, diffusion dither, etc.). Nowadays, 1440 is a common hardware resolution for even cheap desktop inkjet printers. Again, similar to the imagesetter described above, this means that the inkjet printer does just one thing: it bursts onto the substrate little fuzzy dots of ink which measure (roughly) 1/1440 inch. That's fixed; the inkjet printer cannot vary the size of the spots it creates. Note that this is actually less than one fourth the number of printer spots created by a typical imagesetter. So how does an inkjet render all the colors required to reasonably reproduce a full-color image? It prints fewer printer spots of each of its primary colors within a given area. And to avoid a discernable (and distracting) pattern, it distributes those printer spots in what looks like, to a human, a random pattern.
So once again, there is no 1:1 correspondence between each printer spot produced by an inkjet printer and each pixel in a full-color raster image. Trying to achieve that correspondence by making your image PPI equal to the SPI of the printer is just as silly in inkjet printing as it is in imagesetting. It's still just needlessly gross oversampling with absolutely no advantage.
In fact, one of the much-hoped-for promises of stochastic screening in the early days of desktop prepress was that it reduces the PPI needed for apparent sharpness in printed results. (In those days of low memory and slow processing, file size was of paramount concern.) That is, for "comparable detail and sharpness" stochastic screening required lower PPI.
What all this means is: You are not going to achieve any visible detail advantage by sampling your full-color raster images at 1440 PPI instead of at a much lower PPI. Ridiculously high PPI will not make a screened (halftone or stochastic) image include more detail when viewed under magnification. Increasing the PPI of your raster images to the moon does not overcome the rendering capability of the printing process itself.
JET

How to keep quality for 720x576?

I'm making videos that will be displayed on 2nd hand 720x576 TV's. Before I knew that specification I was making the videos at 1080p and the quality was right. This is a large scale installation with many TV's synced together so I need the videos to be M2T and MPEG2 to fit with the system we are using.
I've tried exporting my 1080p project from premiere down to 720x576 MPEG2-DVD, (with top quality settings). I've tried making the video project 720x576 and exporting to that same size. I've tried converting the 1080 video down, (I've tried many programs including HandBrake).
The video just contains text scrolling up (like conventional movie credits). I've made this in Indesign to the same frame size as the Premiere file and exported to JPEG because InDesign doesn't export to anything better than I can see and Photoshop doesn't let me justify the text like it needs to be.
I have Premiere Pro CS5.5.
Any help would be great!

There are some rules associated with titles in DV.
This info has been around so long it is almost funny, but it never goes out of style.
http://library.creativecow.net/articles/hodgetts_philip/titles.php
Also, the speed of the scroll matters when working with interlaced footage. If the scroll looks wrong, change the speed ever so slightly. Keep doing that until you are happier with the results.

LR 4 AVCHD support - how to preserve quality for future use?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for