MacBook SSD Upgrade

Hello everyone
I am thinking to upgrade my old MacBook (A1181) HDD to SSD because is is very slow.
Can anyone tell me is it worth to upgrade and what capacity SSD will accept the system? the current HDD is 500GB. And I am thinking to remove optical drive and put current HDD there.
"SanDisk Ultra Plus Solid State Drive 256GB SSD 530MB/s SATA 6Gbit/s SDSSDHP-256G"
Will this SSD compatible with mac?
My Mac is Intel Core Duo 2GHz 2GB RAM Late 2006 (Black)
Thanks

http://www.macsales.com/ specialized in SSD upgrades for Macs. I would buy from them.
SSDs have historically been difficult to zero, thus making more of a security threat if sold or given to another party as a gift.
Look at this tip for reasons why your Mac may be slow:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-6921

Similar Messages

MacBook Pro (summer 2012) non-retina display and SSD upgrade?

Looking to upgrade to a SSD in my MacBook Pro (summer 2012) non-retina display. Are there ones that work better in a MacBook Pro?

In theory at least, any SSD will work fine. There are some additional considerations to make, however. It mostly revolves around updating the drive's firmware. Many SSD companies do not offer Mac-friendly ways to perform this procedure. From the list Clinton provided, you can drop Corsair and Samsung immediately for this reason.
I would not consider OWC, Intel, or any SSD that uses a Sandforce chipset because of spotty reliability. Yes, improvements have been made, but I still do not trust them. Of the dozens of SSDs I've owned and deployed over the last 2-3 years, the only ones to need replacement were ones with Sandforce.
That leaves Crucial, Plextor, and OCZ. The former two basically use the same Marvell chipset. While I can't speak for Plextor, Crucial's firmware updates are OS agnostic. You simply down an .iso file, burn it to CD, boot from that disc, and perform the update. It works perfectly on a Mac. Doing a quick check of Plextor's support site, it seems the proedure is the same.
For OCZ, I'm only focusing on the Vector and Vertex 4. The former is brand new, having just hit the market within the last couple weeks. If you're looking to buy right now, I would stick with the Vertex 4 as it's a more proven commodity. OCZ has created a suite of tools that you copy to a USB flash drive. You can boot from it, and it takes you to what I think is a very heavily modified Linux distribution. From there, you can do a firmware update, check drive health, and perform a SATA secure erase to return the drive to its "out of the box" state. To get the most from the tools, you should have a USB mouse plugged in. Also, firmware updates require the use of a hard-wired Ethernet cable; you can't use wireless.
Bottom line - for an SSD upgrade, stick with Crucial, Plextor, or OCZ as they are the most Mac-friendly (aside from original Apple parts, of course).

Macbook Pro 15' Early 2013 SSD Upgrade

I have a MBPr early 2013 with a 512GB SSD, will the new 1TB PCIe (late 2013 model) fit my Macbook Pro 15' or will I only be able to upgrade to the 756GB from the early 2013 model?

You need to change the premise of your SSD use.
see here:
Your Solid State Drive and having enough space inside your Macbook Air & Pro
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage.

Non-Apple SSD upgrade of MacBook Pro and trim enabling

Hello.
I have a question about non-Apple SSD upgrade of MacBook Pro. I was planning to go and buy an SSD in a couple of days but I have coincidentally come up with a web page mentioning trim enabling to extend SSD life on MacBook Pros. Actually the article suggested that if trim is not enabled, the SSD performance degradation will start very quickly due to a high number of writing and deletion of data to the same location on the SSD. Apple's original SSDs are really expensive, I checked that. Is there anyone who upgraded with a non-Apple SSD and did not enable trim and realize the SSD performance degradation? Is there anyone who could easily enable trim and is using his Mac efficiently with a non-Apple SSD? I will be glad if you could share your experiences. I really want to improve the speed of my Mid 2012 13 inch MBP but I have to be sure before doing that. I am also planning to buy a Samsung Evo 840 250 GB SSD.
Regards and thanks in advance,
Bugra

Yes you need to install and run TRIM Enabler after your OS X is installed or reverse cloned onto the GUID/OSX extended Journaled formatted SSD from a external boot clone drive of the previous internal drive.
Also you need to run it after some OS X updates and of course upgrades, you'll notice the immediate performance drop if you don't.
It's available over at MacUpdate.com, you'll have to right or control/alt key click to "Open" it to bypass OS X Gatekeeper.
Read these user tips, you can clone your present internal drive to the new SSD using a SATA to USB adapter/Carbon Copy Cloner (not Superduper) and then reboot and hold option/alt key down on a wired keyboard to boot from it and test before making hardware switch.
Make a bootable clone of your boot drive
Upgrading Your MacBook Pro with a Solid State Drive
Install/upgrade RAM or storage drive in Mac's
Of your going the fresh install or + TimeMachine restore route, then also read this
Reset your Mac

Can't Install windows on Macbook Pro Early 2011 with SSD upgrade

Dear all,
A few months ago I had an SSD upgrade and I purchased a Caddy and installed my old HDD on it, and I also changed my Battery because the old one only lasted for 15 inutes after 40 cycles :O
Anyways when I insert a windows 7 or 8 x64 DVD in my USB Samsung DVD Drive, My mac book detects Windows (with the windows 7 DVD) and Detects Windows and EFI Boot (with Windows 8), I have tried every option of those doesn't work.
With EFI it just boots Mac
With Windows it boots to a screen with one blinking cursor top left and then it ejects the DVD ROM and that it :s
I do not know what is wrong :/
P.S. when i installed the SSD I had windows on the old drive it didn't work after the upgrade (this is what made me link both incidents).

I am willing to try this, but I was kinda trying to find a solution that doesn't need me to unscrew stuff ..etc

SSD Upgrade to Late 2008 MBP, Plus Windows 8 Install

Hi guys,
I have a 15", late 2008 MBP that was a beast in it's time, but has started to show it's age, especially due to my aging hard drive. I've read great things about performance improvement through installing an SSD, and so I want to perform this upgrade. Also, while I do have my computer backed up through Time Machine, I'd rather just be proactive on replacing my hard drive before it fails on me (which will definitely happen at some point). Here's some more detailed specs for my computer:
CPU: 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
RAM: 4 GB of 1067 MHz DDR 3
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce 9600M GT 512 MB
Note about the GPU: This comp has the dual graphics chips, but I've been always using the "high-performance" one, which is what is listed above (the other one is a GeForce 9400M).
OS: Most current version of Mavericks (OSX 10.9.2)
In looking up SSD's, I've found that people that have had laptops with similar specs to mine have had success with the Crucial M500 SSDs.
After I get my drive all figured out, I want to use Boot Camp to install Windows 8 on the SSD. Currently, I do not have any Windows installations on my computer. My computer is not supported for Windows 8 installation through Boot Camp, despite the fact that hardware-wise, it is compatable with Windows 8. However, I have found discussions that are pretty standard on how to get Windows 8 installed on my computer.
-So, my first question is: Was my research good for this given SSD for my computer? It seems like Samsung makes the best SSDs, but I haven't found any evidence that it would be really compatable with my computer.
-My second question: Given that I will have just installed an SSD, will Windows 8 installation be doable? This is probably the most important question for me, because if it's not possible, then I'd rather just buy Windows 7 right off the bat and install that in boot camp instead.
-My third question: If I can get Windows up and running, how does my computer's double graphics chip configuration work in Windows? I'd want to make sure that Windows is using the more powerful of the chips and not the less powerful one.
-My fourth question: My computer has gone from Leopard to Snow Leopard to Mavericks, and I never performed a "clean install" for any of these OS upgrades. If I clone my HD to the SSD, would it be beneficial for me to run a Mavericks clean install, and then pull all my necessary data off my backup drive?
Sorry for the long-winded post, and I know much of it is demonstrated elsewhere. I have found many discussions involving SSD upgrades, and getting Windows 8 on a late 2008 MBP, but I haven't found anything that has shown both being done. Both seem easy to do, but I just don't know if doing both in tandem is going to cause a bunch of problems. Has anyone out there done this, and can anyone offer me any advice on how to make this process any smoother? I really like doing this upgrade now, because if I run into Windows issues, or other issues on the SSD, I could still just boot from my old hard drive and use my computer. Thanks everyone!

beestmode,
I have a Mid 2010 MacBook Pro, and I put a Samsung 840 PRO SSD into mine. Where did you find evidence that this model SSD would not work in your MacBook Pro? (The SSD which you’ve installed has a good reputation, so you should have no reason to regret your choice.)
Windows 8 via Boot Camp will not be possible with your model MacBook Pro. In Boot Camp, you could install up to Windows 7, either 32-bit or 64-bit. A virtualizer such as Parallels Desktop or VirtualBox could allow you to install Windows 8, but virtualizers have their own sets of positives and negatives.
Since I have a 13-inch model with only one GPU, I don’t know how your dual GPUs would be handled on the Windows side.
When I’d installed my SSD, I did a clean installation of Mavericks onto it, keeping Snow Leopard on my old internal disk, and putting it into an external enclosure.

Third Party SSD upgrade announced!!!

Check this out:
http://www.macrumors.com/2010/10/27/256gb-ssd-upgrades-for-new-macbook-air-annou nced/

drsailer wrote:
Probably never.
http://www.geek.com/articles/chips/apple-stops-sale-of-photofast-256gb-ssd-for-m acbook-air-20101130/
That's really too bad. We can shop Macsales.com and upgrade our desktops and portables. Now Photofast has had their hand slapped and we can not have an even faster MBAir. What a bummer.

256 Crucial SSD upgrade

Hi,
I'm considering upgrading my MacBook (MacBook5,1: 2.4GHz, Aluminum, 13-inch, Late 2008) and switching the original 256Gb SATA drive with a 256Gb SSD 2.5-inch drive from Crucial. However, when I contacted my local vendor to ask about the upgrade, they stated that an SSD upgrade is not possible for this model, that Apple never ever had an SSD option available for this MacBook and that the SSD "might not work or may cause damage".
So, I used Mactracker to check on my machine's specs and it shows a 256Gb SSD upgrade option, just as I remember when I originally purchased the MacBook. However, as Mactracker is not an official source of information for Apple products, I'm not entirely sure whether to trust it.
I would appreciate if anybody could point me in the right direction for this. Especially if there is an official webpage somewhere that states what upgrades can be performed on a Mac model.
Thanks,
Nick

http://support.apple.com/kb/SP500
While the above MacBook specfications show that yes there was an SSD option for your MacBook, it was the 128GB SSD, as the 256GB SSD was not yet available. Since they generate little or no heat, a greater capacity model could just as well be installed in the future.
I've also been considering a 256GB SSD, but for my late 2007 MacBook, and it's only a question of price.

Satellite R630-155 - Fan is too noisy and SSD upgrade

I am the owner of a Toshiba Satellite R630-155 (Core i5-480). My problems are:
1. The fan is too noisy and never stops. In normal operation (browsing and general office work) there is a constant high pitch noise that is audible three to four meters away in an office environment - in high load you just can't stand it!!! The fan never stops... even when you are doing nothing...
2. Heat is a big problem. The bottom of the laptop is constantly overheating and i have to place it on my desk in a way that the bottom left corner is outside of the table so it can breath fresh air from below - if not, the temperature rises and the (loud) fan is unable to keep up. When i work with the laptop while sitting on a sofa, i have to place a thick book between the laptop and my legs. The book must be thick (more than an inch) with hard covers, otherwise the heat passes through the book!!!!
3. Last (but not least, i just mention the biggest problems here) it's the problem with SSD installation. I bought a used Corsair F80 (80Gb SSD) from a friend, but i was unable to use it with the Toshiba - the BIOS was not detecting the disk. I tried installing all latest firmware updates for both laptop and SSD but i had no success. Then i gave the disk back and i bought a brand new Zalman 128Gb SSD (SSD0128N1 Sandforce) but i had exactly the same problem. I contacted my local Toshiba support and after a lot of conversation the only answer i got is that the laptop is not compatible with those SSD's and this is acceptable by Toshiba and not their problem. They told me that if i need an SSD upgrade i can only go for the Toshiba SSD that is installed on the portege series, which is sold by Toshiba for a ridiculously expensive price - about $500 for 128Gb. I contacted the European support center and i got the exact same reply. I searched on the Internet and i found someone else with the exact same problem with a Corsair 128Gb SSD - he found that the laptop detects the SSD after ten to twenty reboots. I tried that and it was true - after a lot of reboots the laptop detected the Zalman disk and i was able to install Windows 7 successfully, but the process is unacceptable. Also the disk is benchmarked by official sites at the speed of an OCZ Vertex 2 128Gb (and slightly better), but when i ran a benchmark in the Toshiba, the results I got were below half of the advertised speed. Same benchmark in another machine for the same disk, resulted in the advertised speeds.
Shame for Toshiba... nice design and portability but everything else is a big flaw. Their support in non existent and they do not value their customers. I feel they stole my money and I'll never buy a Toshiba laptop again.
Sorry for the big message, but I need I have to warn potential customers. Can someone help me with any of the above problems? Do you have the same problems too?
To be continued...

Hi buddy,
Regarding the fan and heat issue: Did you make BIOS update? Friend of me has Satellite R630 too and he told me that fan activity with new BIOS version 2.10 is reduced. Furthermore the notebook is cooler than before so I would recommend installing this update. You can download the BIOS update here:
http://eu.computers.toshiba-europe.com > Support & Downloads > Download Drivers
But before you start the BIOS update you should consider the following tips:
-Run update as Administrator only
-Unzip all files from zip archive before you start the update file
-Close all running programs and also the antivirus and firewall
-Make sure that battery is fully charged
Regarding the SSDs its always a little bit complicated installing 3rd party products and nobody can guarantee that such parts would work. You are always on safely side with original Toshiba spare parts.
Everything what you can do is installing the newest firmware for SSD and hope that it works but who knows maybe the BIOS update will also help you in this case ;)

Any update on Mac Pro 2013 ssd upgrade?

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has any knowledge on weather an SSD upgrade for the current 2013 Mac Pro will be available soon. I bought a new Mac Pro 3.7 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon E5 12GB RAM for my music production for my studio, however I'm now finding the small SSD a limitation to working with software that needs a lot of space available on the hard drive to install. As far as space for files, I use a external hard drive so that doesn't really matter. I've been constantly checking the web ever so often to see if there is any updated news on pcie ssd upgrades for the new mac pro but can't find anything. OWC did make a prototype SSD for this machine and rumours were that in the 4th quarter on this year they would be available for the public, however that doesn't seem to be the case...
I really wish I went for the 500gb version now even if it was a bit more expensive.
If anyone has any information on when aftermarket pcie based ssds for this machine will be available it will be much appreciated.
Phil.

New TB2 product - OWC ThunderBay 4 Mini
http://macperformanceguide.com/blog/2014/20141117_0902-OWC-ThunderbayMini-announ ced.html
Key Features:
•    Four 2.5” drive bays, perfect for SSDs
•    Breathtaking Thunderbolt 2 performance with sustained speeds of up to 1,284MB/s
•    RAID-ready with up to 4TB of SSD storage (HDD up to 8TB)
•    Near-silent operation
•    SoftRAID 5 – first ever software RAID 5 for the Mac (available with ThunderBay 4 mini RAID 5 Edition)
•    Flexibility to combine multiple ThunderBays into a single massive RAID array
•    Regimented multi-hour drive “burn-in” for ultimate reliability

I have a early 2011 MacBook Pro upgraded to mavericks and windows 7 install cd what do I need to install bootcamp properly?

I have a early 2011 MacBook Pro upgraded to mavericks and windows 7 install cd what do I need to install bootcamp properly? I have the bootcamp assistant in my utilities folder but do I need an older version it's the 5. Something from mavericks and which drivers do I need my my computer?

Boot Camp Assistant is already installed.
Boot Camp 5.1- Frequently asked questions
Mac Basics- Using Windows on your Mac with Boot Camp
Boot Camp- Frequently asked questions about installing Windows 8
Boot Camp- Installing Windows 7 Frequently Asked Questions

Can't Figure Out If My Macbook Can Upgrade , currently running 10.6.8 and wanted to get latest version os but can't upgrade current os Please Help !!!!

Can't Figure Out If My Macbook Can Upgrade , currently running 10.6.8 and wanted to get latest version os but can't upgrade current os Please Help !!!! Hardware Overview:
Model Name: MacBook Air
Model Identifier: MacBookAir3,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 1.4 GHz
Number of Processors: 1
Total Number of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 3 MB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 800 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MBA31.0061.B01
SMC Version (system): 1.67f4
Serial Number (system): C0*******DQX
processor 1.4 ghz
mem 2gb 1067 mhz ddr3
startup disk Macintosh HD
<Edited by Host>

You can upgrade to Mountain Lion
Upgrading from Snow Leopard to Mountain Lion
You can upgrade to Mountain Lion from Lion or directly from Snow Leopard. Mountain Lion can be downloaded from the Mac App Store for $19.99.
If you sign into the App Store and try to purchase Mountain Lion but the App Store says your computer is not compatible then you may still be able to upgrade to Lion per the following information.
Upgrading to Mountain Lion
To upgrade to Mountain Lion you must have Snow Leopard 10.6.8 or Lion installed. Purchase and download Mountain Lion from the App Store. Sign in using your Apple ID. Mountain Lion is $19.99 plus tax. The file is quite large, over 4 GBs, so allow some time to download. It would be preferable to use Ethernet because it is nearly four times faster than wireless.
     OS X Mountain Lion - System Requirements
       Macs that can be upgraded to OS X Mountain Lion
         1. iMac (Mid 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 7,1 or later
         2. MacBook (Late 2008 Aluminum, or Early 2009 or newer) - Model Identifier 5,1 or later
         3. MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         4. MacBook Air (Late 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 2,1 or later
         5. Mac mini (Early 2009 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         6. Mac Pro (Early 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         7. Xserve (Early 2009) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
To find the model identifier open System Profiler in the Utilities folder. It's displayed in the panel on the right.
     Are my applications compatible?
         See App Compatibility Table - RoaringApps.
     For a complete How-To introduction from Apple see Upgrade to OS X Mountain Lion.

I have a Mid 2009 15 inch MacBook Pro with 2.53 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo and 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3. Can this MacBook be upgraded to 8GB? If so, what type would you recomended

I have a Mid 2009 15 inch MacBook Pro with 2.53 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo and 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3. Can this MacBook be upgraded to 8GB? If so, what type would you recomended

Awesome! Thank you What about the Corsair brand?
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-DDR3-Laptop-Memory-CMSO8GX3M2A1333C9/dp/B002YUF8ZG /ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Lenovo Flex 10 SSD upgrade

Hi,
This is my first post. I have just brought a Lenovo Flex 10 with a celeron n 2807 chip. I asked in the shop if they could do an ssd upgrade and they said they wouldn't recommend it because the celeron n2807 chip is not good enough to run an SSD internal flash drive. Would anyone recomened upgrading the interneral storage from the 5400rpm hard drive to an SSD?

Pardon my lack of confidence in your shop, but that's a joke. SSDs will improve PC's right back to the beginning of the SATA offering. I have a NUC with the following Celeron:
http://ark.intel.com/products/79052/Intel-Celeron-Processor-N2820-1M-Cache-up-to-2_39-GHz
There is a huge performance gain from running an SSD on these. The only factor in whether or not to get an SSD should be if the size within your budget will hold all your data.
←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗
Tap that kudos button if I helped ^^
←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗←↑→↓↘↙↖↗

Comformation of Core Duo-based MacBook/Macbook Pro Upgrade 'N' path

In an attempt to shorten these threads concerning MacBook/Macbook Pro Upgrade 'N' path using Apple's (AirPort Extreme Upgrade Kit **NEW** Model BCM94321MC) Part #'s MA688Z/B or MA688Z/A (The only difference between the two part numbers appears to be that Part # MA688Z/B come with the new Airport Extreme Base Station installation CD which includes the 'n' enabler.
Both these cards have been proven to work in both MacBooks. While some have had trouble with the /A card it CLEARLY appears to be a preferences problem. (just repair the preferences prior to installing the card)
Both cards require the Program Pacifist to install the enabler.
Pacifist is a small program that opens up .pkg installer packages and lets you install individual files out of them. This is useful if you need to install just one file out of a package instead of the entire package (for example, if you deleted Sherlock and need to reinstall it, but not the whole operating system), if you experience bugs in Installer.app that mess up your symbolic links, or if you just like a little more control over the installation process.
It can be downloaded free here. http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/6812
Open the enabler trough pacifist and click install. The program will place the items where they should be.
Please post your results with these cards!!!!!!
/A Card: MacBook Pro--Courtesy of William Rivas:
Here is my step by step MacBook Pro Core Duo 802.11n upgrade guide...
http://xlr8yourmac.com/systems/macbookprowireless_N_upgrade/macbookpro_N_cardinstall.html#storytop
The only correction I would make to this is, the stainless tension bars at the top left of the Airport card should not be screwed directly into the card itself, but into the single screw hole directly above the card on the left side with the tension arms angeled down toward the card thereby actually holding the card in place via the tension or presure exerted. The two additional screws that come with the replacement card are not needed if you had and original card in place. There should not be any screws directly holding the card in place. The tension springs arms are only there to hold the card flat. If left as in your photo there could be some inadvertant arcing of static elec. transmitted to the card. THIS only applies to the MacBook Pro as the MAcBook requires being attached by two screws!!!!
/B Card: MacBook Pro--Courtesy of me: Same installeation as above,
I have now tried both of the different suggestions of getting internal 802.11n on an original MacBook Pro described on this forum.
1.) Dell internal 1500 Broadcom pci mini express card (Card Model # BCM94321MC), and
2.) Apple Pro’s internal (AirPort Extreme Upgrade Kit **NEW** Model BCM94321MC) New Part # MA688Z/B*
As you can see, both cards contain the same model numbers and incidentally, both only have ‘TWO’ antenna post and fit into the same space the existing PCI mini ‘G’ airport card held. Each installation took less than 20 minutes. Of course the second one took less time than the first.
I ordered the Dell card ($38 ebay) prior to learning about the Apple Pro card (Apple Store $43), however, both cards worked, performed, connected and were recognized equally well by the new ‘N’ AEBS. Both needed Pacifist for installation of the ‘N’ Enabler. Both cards show connection speeds at 130 in a mixed g/n environment, which appears normal per other post. Both cards performed identically with the new AEBS, except for the speed, as the original Apple 802.11 a/b/g card they replaced.
I referred to both the http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/85.0.0.html and www.xlr8yourmac.com/ instructions for the disassembly of my MacBook Pro.
MacBook Pro--Courtesy of Kirrelp:
http://www.hardmac.com/articles/71/page1/
seems to work. no driver problems or what ever!!

Jean-Paul,
You know the way I took out my AE card is the exact way I installed it. Do have a picture of the completed install you did?
I was soooo careful when I performed this task. Is your MacBook Pro a 17"?
That's what mine is. I am sure that is the difference between the two. I have the 15.2" Service Manual and I see the bracket is completly different then the 17".
William
MacPro 2.6, iMac 1.9, iMac 700, Mac Mini 1.42 Mac OS X (10.4.6) MBP 17" 2.1 , PB 1.67 15", iPod U2, Nano
MacPro 2.6, iMac 1.9, iMac 700, Mac Mini 1.42 Mac OS X (10.4.6) MBP 17" 2.1 , PB 1.67 15", iPod U2, Nano

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