Mask on a ccSphere and circular light animation?

Hi, i have created an earth with ccSphere. can i use somehow an earth map mask on the sphere? i want to animate circular light waves, which are moving around the sphere, but they just should be visible on the continents.
how does the light attach to the sphere or rather more how is it moving around it?
i would appreciate your help and detailed informations, iam a beginner.
thank you

Put your earth map image in a composition and apply your CC Sphere effect to that composition. Then, any animation you do in the earth map composition will appear on the earth in your main composition.

Similar Messages

Ability of DSLR cameras to cut down UV and infrared light

Is it a fact that most digital cameras can cut down ultraviolet and infrared parts of the electromagnetic radiation on their own and therefore do not require separate filters for that purpose? If so, even an entry level DSLR, like my Canon EOS 1100D, is so capable?

Yes, this is true. In fact... more than you might guess.
In the days of film (I speak as if it's ancient history but that's how many of us here grew up shooting) the sensitivity of the film to various parts of the spectrum dependended entirely on the film itself. If you wanted to shoot infra-red, you loaded the camera with infra-red film. Non infra-red film was not particularly sesntivie to infra-red light.
Many films were mildly sensitive to UV light and the real point of the UV filter (which I think might surprise most people) is that whenever you pass light through a "lens", the lens has a "dispersion" effect which bends different wavelengths of light by a different amount. Compensating elements are used in the lens to attempt to correct for this and better lenses are judged substantially by how well they handle this. But it turns out human eyes are not sensitive to either UV (nor IR). Since UV is on the short end of the spectrum, it's light bends more than any other wavelength and would thus need the most correction. If left uncorrected, this might cause an image to appear slightly "soft" because the UV wavelength does not want to focus at precisely the same focus distance. Rather than "correct" the UV wavelength, it's much easier to just eliminate it entirely by using a filter -- problem solved.
Back to the era of digital...
Digital cameras are senstiive to both UV and IR and much moreso than film. Effectively _every_ digital camera needs to filter these wavelengths out. But more than this... human eyes are not actually 'equally" sensitive to all colors of light. We are far more sensitive to the wavelengths in the middle of the visible spectrum and not nearly as sensitive to the wavelengths nearing the sides of the visible spectrum. You are, in effect, VASTLY more sensitive to "greens" and much less sensitive to either red or blue. So while you see the world with reds, greens, and blues... the real world has significantly more red and blue than you are able to see. Cameras would see these more or less equally and this would result in images which appear to be saturated with red and blue.
To fix this, the camera does a few things...
First... the sensor is coated with "photosites" under a mask of red, green, and blue micro "filters". The array is usually referred to as a "Bayer Mask" (there are other types but this is the most common.) The mask has twice as many "green" sensitive sites as it does red or blue sites.
Second... the camera has both UV and IR filters inside and these are located immediately in front of the sensor (but behind the shutter). If you remove the lens, open the shutter, and look in side, then what you actually are looking at is a couple of layers of filters (which appear mostly clear to you) and then the sensor itself is behind them all.
Third... the UV and IR filters have a gradual cut-off curve. The IR wavelength begins at 700nm (and longer) Anything "shorter" than 700 is considered 'visible' light. The visible spectrum runs from roughly 400nm through 700nm. But it's not as if the filter allows 0% of wavelengths shorter than 400nm to pass and 0% of the wavelengths longer than 700nm to pass and yet 100% of the stuff between 400 and 700nm through. What it _really_ does is a gradual ramp.
The filter begins cutting IR light starting while it's still in the 500nm range -- it's already being filtered in the 600nm range. By the time we get to the 656nm wavelength (which happens to be a fire-engine red color -- that's the "Hydrogen alpha emission line" the filter is already cutting nearly 75% of the "red" light (and this is still considered "visible" light spectrum territory). By the time it gets to the 700nm wavelength it's cutting nearly all of it.
This may sound surprising or undesireable but actually... it more mirrors the sensitive amounts of your own eyes. Your eyes are less sensitive to those wavelengths so the camera is deliberately de-tuned to be less sensitive to those areas as well and in doing this, you end up with a photograph which more closely approximatelys the color proportions that your eyes are used to seeing.
There are people who modify their cameras so they can be used for IR photography and astrophotographers love to modify them for astrophotography purposes (the Canon 60Da is a special edition of the 60D which is pre-modified by Canon to be more sensitive to the wavelengths needed in astrophotography which benefits greatly if sensitive to the Ha (Hydrogen alpha) wavelength (656.28nm) is improved.)
Thats probably more than you wanted to know about the filters... but there you have it!
There is no "need" to use a UV (nor IR) filter on any of your lenses. Some people use them as a form of "protection" (to avoid getting dirt directly on the front element of the lens). There is a downside to useing them in that they often will create optical reflections in your image ... with "ghosting" or "flaring" that would not be visible had no filter been on the lens.
Regards,
Tim
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

WRT54G V8 power and LAN light wont come on

Ive recently tried to update the firmware and everything went as instructed, then the power and LAN light went out.
Now I have the indicator lights for the computer and modem, but thats is. No internet or SSID broadcast. I cannot log into or ping the unit, and have tried the hard reset many times, with no effect.
Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Did you Interrupt the Firmware Upgrade ? Did you Upgrade the Firmware Wirelessly/Wired ? Atmost you can again retry the hard reset, try to give a static ip address on your computer(Click on the Start button >>> Settings >>> Control Panel >>>Network Connections- Right click on the icon for Local area connection and go to properties- On the 'General' tab select 'Internet Protocol TCP/IP' and click on the Properties button- Select 'Use the following IP address'- Provide IP Address - 192.168.1.5 Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0 Default Gateway - 192.168.1.1- Preferred DNS 192.168.1.1 Alternate DNS - 4.2.2.2 >>Click on Ok button to Save and Click on "Close" on main Properties window. )
Now click start >> All Programs >> Accessories >> Command Prompt and type in ping 192.168.1.1 , if you get 4 replies you can retry the firmware upgrade...

Hi I'm new in this Ae and i loved it and started to get into editing but when i watch videos on how to use effects like magnify and CC light burst 2.5 it doesn't work why?

hi I'm new in this Ae and i loved it and started to get into editing but when i watch videos on how to use effects like magnify and CC light burst 2.5 it doesn't work why?

First, I want to clear up some vocabulary issues. After Effects is not intended for editing video. Editing involves cutting shots together to tell a story. Premiere Pro edits video. While you technically can cut video together in AE, Premiere is much, much better for that.
After Effects is used for creating shots - visual effects, compositing, motion graphics, animation, color correction, color grading, etc.
What exact version number of AE (down to the decimal points) are you using? Plus the questions Todd asked, plus the info in the link he gave.
Also, if you're new to AE, you should really start here. This resource will give you a foundation in how to actually use After Effects that will probably clear up your current problem and prevent much more frustration in the future.

Recently loaded Lion on my laptop and now my computer crashes often. Black screen and keyboard lights up. Any ideas on what's wrong and how to fix this?

Recently loaded Lion on my laptop and now my computer crashes often. Black screen and keyboard lights up. Any ideas on what's wrong and how to fix this?

Everytime this happens Ihave to power down and restart! Any ideas would be appreciated!

ProRes files act crazy and transcoding to Animation codec gets ugly

So, allegedly, the Animation codec is lossless. However, when I take something encoded with Apple ProRes 422 HQ and transcode to Animation within the Quicktime Pro software, I see noticeable differences. Including: color change and increased aliasing.
The same is true when attempting to export stills from ProRes, even in the highest, most lossless formats. I am wondering if ProRes for PC is actually not quite ready for prime time? When I import a ProRes file into After Effects, I notice the same quality drop associated with trying to transcode it to a lossless format. It seems as though ONLY QT Pro has the capability to display ProRes files properly. If this is the case, this is largely useless, since I can't then USE these ProRes files for anything. What the heck guys? I wouldn't have had clients deliver me ProRes encoded stuff if I knew that it didn't actually maintain its integrity.
Please help out as soon as possible. Clients with deadlines are waiting on a solution that doesn't involve me spending 4000 grand on a new machine and FCP.

As a test, try nesting the problem sequence in a new empty sequence then export that new sequence using QuickTime. Let us know whether or not that succeeds.
Cheers
Eddie
PremiereProPedia (RSS feed)
- Over 350 frequently answered questions
- Over 300 free tutorials
- Maintained by editors like you
Forum FAQ

My battery life at a full 100% charge is about 2 hours 22 minutes (backlight and key lights at lowest level). Should I go complaining to Apple or do I just need different software?

My battery life at a full 100% charge is about 2 hours 22 minutes (backlight and key lights at lowest level). Should I go complaining to Apple or do I just need different software? I've only had my mac book since August 2011. The battery dies in 2 to 3 hours with some web surfing (little video play) and photo editing etc. I really don't feel like taking my computer all the way to the apple store to wait there for 5 hours to hear that I need to call someone blah blah blah. Any advice? (BTW Safari hasn't been working since I last updated my mac, WHYYYY?)

emsavage1127 wrote:
Should I go complaining to Apple or do I just need different software?
emsavage1127 wrote:
I really don't feel like taking my computer all the way to the apple store to wait there for 5 hours to hear that I need to call someone blah blah blah.
Make an appointment at the genius bar, that way, you wont have to wait. http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/

My Macbook air no longer shows battery and the light on the connector is not on can someone help me please?

My Macbook air no longer shows battery and the light on the connector is not on can someone help me please

i saw that someone had updated to maverick and had the same battery issue and fan issue so I reset the SMC and everything is ok now

Seagate FreeAgent Go is making a clicking sound and the light is rapidly blinking. My Macbook is no longer recognizing it. Is there any way to fix it or recover my files? The SeaAgent is less than a month old!

Seagate FreeAgent Go is making a clicking sound and the light is rapidly blinking. My Macbook is no longer recognizing it. Is there any way to pull all the songs I have saved on it? The SeaAgent is less than a month old!
Does anyone know how to fix this issue?
Or at least recover the lost data?
Thanks!

How to fix: the drive is in warranty, so contact Seagate for a replacement.
How to recover your data: Do you have backups? (If not, you really, really, should.)
You can try downloading Data Rescue, which will run in trial mode and let you know if the data is recoverable. (You can then choose to purchase the full version if it works for you.) A clicking drive, though, is usually (though not always) a sign that the drive cannot be recovered.
Matt
Edit: fixed link.

HP Photosmart 7510 touch screen, power light and wifi lights won't turn on

I bought my HP Photosmart 7510 over a year ago, just past warranty. I've printed less than 50 pages total at home and only 3 photos. Just as of two days ago, the touch screen decided not to work anymore, and the lights that usually come on next to the power button and wifi icon won't come on either. However, when I turn it on, the same tones sound out and the scanner and ink jets move around in their usual set-up. I've troubleshooted with trying several different ways of restarting it, but to no avail.
HP tech support phone line was a joke, I got told by the first representative (before telling him which product I had or even offering to troubleshoot) that he was going to send a repairman to my house for $149. Over the price of my printer. So I tried calling back and spoke with a young woman who, when I asked if she would help me troubleshoot my printer, said "you can't troubleshoot that, only software". Then insisted that I pay $130 for a new printer. When I asked to be transferred to her supervisor, I was yelled at, told to again buy a new HP printer, and pushed off the phone.
I have had several HP products, I always seek them out for the brand name and have trusted the merchandise. But one year of life in a product is just silly. And unforturnately, I won't be able to convince myself to buy another one for that kind of lifespan unless I can fix this. I know I'm not the first one with this issue, is there a RECALL I'm not aware of? How can I get this puppy working again?

Hello cbroomhead,
I am sorry to hear about your Photosmart 7510's touch screen showing blank and not working. I understand you can still hear the printer warming up when you power it on. I would like to post you a troubleshooting guide below to try in hopes to correct the issue.
If you have tried all of the steps and the screen is still blank, you can also try another power cable if you have one.
Blank Control Panel Display
If you are able to have the screen come back on, also check for a Firmware Update.
I hope this helps!
Regards,
R a i n b o w 7000I work on behalf of HP
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say
“Thanks” for helping!
Click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution!

I have an IPod 2nd generation I bought from a pawn shop. It worked for a day but now when I try to charge it, it keeps switching back and forth from the large full screen icon of a low battery and a lighting bolt below to the blue screen with the apple s

I have an IPod 2nd generation I bought from a pawn shop. It worked for a day but now when I try to charge it, it keeps switching back and forth from the large full screen icon of a low battery and a lighting bolt below to the blue screen with the apple symbol in the middle. I had it on charge all night but still dead.

Try here.
iPod touch: Hardware troubleshooting
You may have a hardware problem.

Whats the green and orange light blinking at the same time?

Since i upgraded to itunes 5.0, i lost my itunes , i can not open it no more, installed it again same thing. Now my Shuffle won't work, when you touch play it will blink the green and orange light. Can not speak with a shuffle agent because 3 months passed. And they want you to nuy an a contract for $59.00 for something that cost $149.00?

Check some of these links out:
http://www.apple.com/support/ipodshuffle/
http://www.apple.com/support/ipodshuffle/reference/
Regards,

My Mac Mini was not sending a signal to the monitor. I powered down using the power button and now it will not start. When i power up I get a strange 2 tone sound, like a warning alarm. The fan starts, and the light comes on, but no screen

My Mac Mini was not sending a signal to the monitor. I powered down using the power button and now it will not start. When i power up I get a strange 2 tone sound, like a warning alarm. The fan starts, and the light comes on, but no screen.
I have tried with a wired USB keyboard and mouse using a single screen. Powered up with option pressed. No change.
Reset SMC no change

Run the Apple hardware test to see what it tells you. Run the extended test when prompted, which can take awhile.

My Apple TV is not responding anymore and white light flickers

My Apple TV does not respond anymore and white light flickers all the Time. No connection anymore.

In that case if you've already tried unplugging from power, waiting for a minute or so and restarting and nothing helps, you probably ned to factory restore via iTunes:
Apple TV (2nd and 3rd generation): Restoring your Apple TV

Hi, my Macbook Pro isn't charging when I plug in my charger and the light on the charger thing isn't lighting up. How can I tell if the charger or the computer is broken? Also, is there a way to fix it? Thanks.

Hi, my Macbook Pro isn't charging when I plug in my charger and the light on the charger thing isn't lighting up. How can I tell if the charger or the computer is broken? Also, is there a way to fix it? Thanks.

Not sure how I would tell if the contacts are stuck, but they look normal. The other stuff:
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number:    W0046Q08UBX0A
Manufacturer:    SMP
Device name:    bq20z451
Pack Lot Code:    0000
PCB Lot Code:    0000
Firmware Version:    0201
Hardware Revision:    000a
Cell Revision:    0157
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh):    3211
Fully charged:    No
Charging:    No
Full charge capacity (mAh):    5845
Health Information:
Cycle count:    943
Condition:    Normal
Battery Installed:    Yes
Amperage (mA):    -1354
Voltage (mV):    11210
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):    10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):    10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):    10
Wake On AC Change:    No
Wake On Clamshell Open:    Yes
Wake On LAN:    Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:    Yes
GPUSwitch:    2
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):    10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):    10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):    2
Wake On AC Change:    No
Wake On Clamshell Open:    Yes
Current Power Source:    Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:    Yes
GPUSwitch:    2
Reduce Brightness:    Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed:    No
AC Charger Information:
Connected:    No
Charging:    No

Mask on a ccSphere and circular light animation?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for