Measurement Computing or NI, that is the question!
Well actually its not a question anymore.
http://www.measurementcomputing.com/press_release.asp?pr=55
NI has purchase MC.
Is there anyway for me to go back and edit all of those posts were I said using NI stuff lead to faster devlopment than using MC?
Ben
Ben Rayner
I am currently active on.. MainStream Preppers
Rayner's Ridge is under construction
Solved!
Go to Solution.
Ben wrote:
Is there anyway for me to go back and edit all of those posts were I said using NI stuff lead to faster devlopment than using MC?
Well, that is probably still true .
Similarly, the the MCC web site still keeps making their side-by-side, punch-by-punch comparisons with competing NI products.
Message Edited by altenbach on 04-30-2005 11:41 AM
LabVIEW Champion . Do more with less code and in less time .
Attachments:
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Forum FAQ -
Keyboard or Motherboard, that is the question (power indicator lit, but machine does not work)
Hello Everyone.
Sorry for this long as heck post. Skip to the all caps headers below, if you have no time for excuses.
I’m loving my new w530. Well, I have been loving it. I work in documentary production and for the last year have been in a very dusty part of the world.
No matter what we do, we cannot keep dust from the computers. Dust covers, etc. Are basically helpless, though we do use them. If you could NEVER expose the computer to anything, that would be great. But as soon as you use it, it will get dust in it, specifically the keyboard, and monitor bezel, but also any bezel and any button. The dust can get gritty and sometimes it’s necessary to remove the keyboard(s) and just “shake them out”.
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I’ve done it a thousand times, but..dammit, I almost want to cry…as I was placing it back on it slipped a little and touched something nearby on the mother board, and I saw the mute microphone button light up briefly.
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And I was right…
So, besides the obvious scolding…which I deserve…does anyone know anything about the keyboard schematics?
I’ve looked for diagrams online, but have had no success. And we VPN to a few servers around the world and they are always so slow, trying exhaustive searches is just crazy time consuming.
THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS (THE SYMPTOMS):
When the machine is plugged in, the power indicator lamp (around the power button) is lit…and stays lit no matter what you do, until you unplug it and the battery (if any).
When the machine is NOT plugged in, but there is a battery attached, the lamp only lights when the button is pressed…and it stays lit until the battery is removed.
SO MY QUESTION IS:
Can anyone tell me based on the symptoms, if this is the keyboard (please) or if it is the motherboard?
We are praying that I only shorted the keyboard somehow…because we know we can get a replacement keyboard only 1 day away.
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And it will have to wait for three months, by which time all warranties will be lapsed. Thankfully we got and bought some Win 8 licenses and I can just swap the hard drive to an old d830 and it works with no effort, and I have all of my work available to me with no fussing.
Thanks for reading. Hopefully someone has some great insights.MaryAmanda wrote:
Does anyone know anything about onsite specifics?
I'm wondering where the onsite warranty can be in effect. Like, can it be used in ANY city in the US? Can it be used only in metrololitan areas? What is a metro area in Lenovo's eyes?
Does anyone know where I can get better and accurate info on the onsite warranty? Like a coverage map would be very helpful. Because why should I spend the money on it, if I can't access it?
Looking forward to more info...thanks.
There is no coverage map as such.
I live in what is considered a rural area and had techs driving 60-70 miles one way to get to me, never an issue.
Obviously, YMMV.
In my not-so-modest experience, both onsite and accidental damage upgrades are worth every penny if one intends to keep their ThinkPads for an extended period of time.
Good luck.
Cheers,
George
In daily use: R60F, R500F, T61, T410
Collecting dust: T60
Enjoying retirement: A31p, T42p,
Non-ThinkPads: Panasonic CF-31 & CF-52, HP 8760W
Starting Thursday, 08/14/2014 I'll be away from the forums until further notice. Please do NOT send private messages since I won't be able to read them. Thank you. -
Install , install again ? That , is the question .
Upon serious disaffection with rising
OS trifles I have taken the time to rein-
stall the OS . From the original discs to
the retail Tiger distribution to Software
Updates three loads and out , I have rein-
stalled the OS . The orphaned or unident-
ified files or folders that freeze the comp-
uter were among the hated 'trifles' . They
appear as healthy as ever and what a pain
. A quick fsck showed the drive was fine
but the mount revealed the awful orphan-
ed files . These quick or permanent lay-
abouts wasted no time returning and I
wonder how and why . The computer runs
pretty well outside of this . About a year
and a half ago found me doing this same
routine for the same reasons and now
leaves me wondering if it is the Installa-
tion Discs or the computer . I was consid-
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could get it “Right” perhaps with persis-
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thing else . Thanks for your thoughts
, FrederickI think I can help you determine if the
reinstall of the OS can be the problem
either because of something wrong with the
discs or just that things happen. Things can
happen once can be of a singular nature.
But those that happen twice are suspect by their
duality. Sand can be removed from the eye
carefully but sandy fingers will redeposit it.
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would be to backup your entire disk, erase &
install, then start with your OS Tiger install disk.
Minimize your installs. After installing 10.4.x you
will want to use the
10.4.10 Combo Updater PPC
that should be all you need. Remember to Verify
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Now your system should be a clean as a fresh mountain
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[email protected] -
To Stream or to download: That is the Question.
Hi,
Until recently i have only used my iTunes library for music only.
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Q
1. If i buy a movie to own from my pc which has my itunes laptop on a conncted external HDD, Im assuming the movie downloads to the external HDD and is yours.
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Best Regards
Simon.pogbellies wrote:
I would like to use Google Music as a back up. I already have iTunes Match but I like that with the Google setup I can choose whether to stream or download.
Neither iTunes Match nor Google Music are advertised as backup services. I strongly suggest you not rely on them as such and purchase an external HDD to backup your personal data.
pogbellies wrote:
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To sleep, or turn-off, or leave on, that is the question
A couple years ago I called a local Mac dealer and asked the worth of my G4 iMac for a trade-in. He asked whether I usually turned the G4 off, or put it to sleep, or left it on all the time. I said, I usually left it on (with display turned off), or put it to sleep at night. He said the value was less in that case because the heat stresses in high-powered ICs were more detrimental to the life of the machine than on-off stresses. He said I should always turn the machine off at night.
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So, that's my question. What is best for my new iMac for maximum reliability. (Forget about energy consumption for the moment.}
1. What's best for overall reliability - turn the unit off at night, put it to sleep at night, or leave it on (with the display in sleep) - or some variation of these.
2. Is there some magic in the OS that is optimized by one mode over another?
I'm expect there are no comprehensive studies on this subject, but perhaps there are some informed opinions.
-BobFor a desktop Mac, I leave it ON all the time using only Display Sleep. I also have the setting for +sleeping hard drives when possible+ enabled, but that does not apply to the internal drive (when used as the startup disk); it keeps spinning. External drives do spin down when not accessed.
I believe leaving it on all the time causes less long-term stress on the hardware, for a Mac that is used every day for at least half the day.
I think the second best approach, and better approach for energy conservation, is to use Computer Sleep. However, it should be used so that when you start using the Mac at the start of the day, your Mac stays ON (with Display Sleep only) for the rest of the day. At the end of the day (when you will not be using it again until the next day), use Computer Sleep.
Periodically, for leaving it on all the time or using sleep, restart the Mac; you can make it weekly if you want a routine, but my iMac is fine for about three weeks. After that, I often notice some oddities with general performance, so I do a restart. I don't think about too much, because there is usually some other reason to do a restart within a three week period.
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For a laptop Mac, they are designed to run off battery power and use sleep to save power (and their hard drives are better suited for that mode). The issues and considerations are not the same. -
To turn off or leave on, that is the question!
Hi there,
This is probably a FAQ for most of you, however, I've never asked it before.
What is best (both for the computer and for saving energy); to leave the computer in sleep mode all day until you need it, or to turn it on and off as you need it?
Also, does a FIOS connection have any relevance to the above question?
Thanks,
Wayne
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.3)
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.3)
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.3)
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.3)Booting up and shutting down puts more stress on a computers components than any other process.
Each time you boot you can send a power surge through your cpu, hd, etc which can cause problems and shorten the life of your computer. It is also the time when most directory problems occur.
A computer running Unix should never need to be rebooted. Of course, at times, this can't be helped but theoretically it should never need rebooting. Some Unix servers have been up and running for over 15 years.
Also, if you choose to leave your Mac on 24/7 it uses very little power over "Sleep" as the HD and fans spin down quickly when not in use and you will use Screen Sleep.
Other advantages of being on 24/7 is there are Periodic scripts (daily, weekly and monthly housekeeping tasks) set to run between 3 - 5 AM. If you shut down your Mac these Periodic scripts will not run so you will need to run them manually. Another big plus is that your Mac is always ready to use at the move of your mouse. How often have you shut down and then remembered you needed to do one more thing?
If you live in an area where power outages are a problem, then shutdown or run a UPS (uninterrupted power supply).
Here is what Apple has to say on the issue. Remember, they must be very careful in their language.
Also, does a FIOS connection have any relevance to the above question?
No.
-mj
[email protected] -
To Mac, or not to Mac, that is the question...
Okay, so I don't know if I'm allowed to ask this in this forum, but I'll give it a try anyway.
I will be starting college in the fall and will need a computer. I've had myself convinced for a while now that I want a MacBook...but now I'm starting to have second thoughts.
It's just that I've always used PCs in my life, I know how to do anything I want really on a PC, and I don't know if it's worth the bother to relearn a whole new system. Plus, I mean, I'm starting college, I should know how to use my computer before going, don't you agree? Just how hard is it to adjust?
Another issue is the whole windows/mac os thing in that I'm worried about programs running on it. I don't really understand how Boot Camp works. You just install Windows XP (do you have to buy it? is it a special mac version?) and your Mac turns into a Windows machine? As in it looks just like my HP lap top looks now, wiht the bar at the bottom, etc.? But then I've read some posts on these threads and ppl say you could get viruses that way b/c you are using windows. Which is one of the reasons I would want to switch to a mac. If you do use Windows and the Mac OS, you can just switch back and forth whenever you want? Are all the programs and files the same then in both systems? Like I wouldn't want half my files to be in one program and the other half in another. I don't know, I don't really understand it all.
Also, my mom got a MacBook and I guess they bought a new laser printer yesterday and had to return it today b/c they realized it's not apple compatible. They went to Office Max and realized barely any printers are apple compatible! The had the toughest time finding an affordable printer that they liked! How can this be? Is this how it's always going to be when I'm buying accessories?
I just love all the features the Mac has. I am constantly frustrated w/ Windows and all the **** viruses and adware I have on my computer, which is a major reason for my wanting to switch. FrontRow seems like the coolest thing ever. And the cool magnet things. And I already have an iPod, so they'd run nicely together. Plus, it's pretty. (I know it's a dumb reason to buy a computer, but I'm a girl, what can I say, that stuff is important to me.)
So anyway, I'm now debating between a MacBook and a tablet PC, possibly Gateway or IBM. Could anyone try to convince me one way or the other (considering I'm on a Mac discussion board, I'm sure it'll be the Mac way)? Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your help.My guess is that you're likely to find more Mac users at a college than most other areas, so I wouldn't worry too much about 'making the switch' right before going to college -- you'll have lots of help nearby.
Boot Camp is pretty cool!
It's a free utility from Apple that basically prepares your Mac so it can run Windows XP. Boot Camp divides your hard drive into seperate areas (partitions) -- one for OS X and another for XP. Boot Camp doesn't come with a copy of Windows XP -- you'll need to provide that. The XP that Boot Camp installs isn't a special version for Mac -- it's the same version that runs on any computer, although to work with Boot Camp, you'll need an XP install CD that has Service Pack 2 applied. Once XP has been installed on your Macbook, it should look (and act) like XP on your HP (with the exception of any special tools/programs that HP loaded on your HP laptop, obviously).
When you restart your MacBook, it will boot into whichever OS that you set as the default. If you want to boot into the other OS, you just hold down the OPTION key when you restart and then you pick which OS to load. Your computer is basically divided into two systems, so no, programs are not automatically on both systems. If you install the Mac version of Microsoft Office in OS X, you're not going to have Excel/Word/etc when you boot into XP unless you specifically install the Windows version of Microsoft Office.
Regarding accessories, you always need to check that they work with OS X. My printer was a problem too. It was an el cheapo Samsung laser printer and Samsung apparently didn't feel like spending the money to write OS X drivers for it, but it turned out that an older Samsung OS X driver worked just fine. I had zero problems getting my Kodak camera to work -- I just plugged it in an OS X started using it ... no drivers to install or anything, which made it way easier than the crap I had to do in XP to get XP to see it. My iPod nano worked with no problems too.
I really, really love my MacBook. I don't know when you have to make your decision, but try using your moms as much as you can (if you can). I bought a Mac mini for my other half last year (birthday present). I had NO interest at that time in Macs or OS X, but after a few days of watching over his shoulder, I was hooked and got myself a mini (and then a PowerBook and then a MacBook Pro and then a MacBook) .. it's addicting. -
To RAID or not to RAID, that is the question
People often ask: Should I raid my disks?
The question is simple, unfortunately the answer is not. So here I'm going to give you another guide to help you decide when a raid array is advantageous and how to go about it. Notice that this guide also applies to SSD's, with the expection of the parts about mechanical failure.
What is a RAID?
RAID is the acronym for "Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks". The concept originated at the University of Berkely in 1987 and was intended to create large storage capacity with smaller disks without the need for very expensive and reliable disks, that were very expensive at that time, often a tenfold of smaller disks. Today prices of hard disks have fallen so much that it often is more attractive to buy a single 1 TB disk than two 500 GB disks. That is the reason that today RAID is often described as "Redundant Array of Independent Disks".
The idea behind RAID is to have a number of disks co-operate in such a way that it looks like one big disk. Note that 'Spanning' is not in any way comparable to RAID, it is just a way, like inverse partitioning, to extend the base partition to use multiple disks, without changing the method of reading and writing to that extended partition.
Why use a RAID?
Now with these lower disks prices today, why would a video editor consider a raid array? There are two reasons:
1. Redundancy (or security)
2. Performance
Notice that it can be a combination of both reasons, it is not an 'either/or' reason.
Does a video editor need RAID?
No, if the above two reasons, redundancy and performance are not relevant. Yes if either or both reasons are relevant.
Re 1. Redundancy
Every mechanical disk will eventually fail, sometimes on the first day of use, sometimes only after several years of usage. When that happens, all data on that disk are lost and the only solution is to get a new disk and recreate the data from a backup (if you have one) or through tedious and time-consuming work. If that does not bother you and you can spare the time to recreate the data that were lost, then redundancy is not an issue for you. Keep in mind that disk failures often occur at inconvenient moments, on a weekend when the shops are closed and you can't get a replacement disk, or when you have a tight deadline.
Re 2. Performance
Opponents of RAID will often say that any modern disk is fast enough for video editing and they are right, but only to a certain extent. As fill rates of disks go up, performance goes down, sometimes by 50%. As the number of disk activities on the disk go up , like accessing (reading or writing) pagefile, media cache, previews, media, project file, output file, performance goes down the drain. The more tracks you have in your project, the more strain is put on your disk. 10 tracks require 10 times the bandwidth of a single track. The more applications you have open, the more your pagefile is used. This is especially apparent on systems with limited memory.
The following chart shows how fill rates on a single disk will impact performance:
Remember that I said previously the idea behind RAID is to have a number of disks co-operate in such a way that it looks like one big disk. That means a RAID will not fill up as fast as a single disk and not experience the same performance degradation.
RAID basics
Now that we have established the reasons why people may consider RAID, let's have a look at some of the basics.
Single or Multiple?
There are three methods to configure a RAID array: mirroring, striping and parity check. These are called levels and levels are subdivided in single or multiple levels, depending on the method used. A single level RAID0 is striping only and a multiple level RAID15 is a combination of mirroring (1) and parity check (5). Multiple levels are designated by combining two single levels, like a multiple RAID10, which is a combination of single level RAID0 with a single level RAID1.
Hardware or Software?
The difference is quite simple: hardware RAID controllers have their own processor and usually their own cache. Software RAID controllers use the CPU and the RAM on the motherboard. Hardware controllers are faster but also more expensive. For RAID levels without parity check like Raid0, Raid1 and Raid10 software controllers are quite good with a fast PC.
The common Promise and Highpoint cards are all software controllers that (mis)use the CPU and RAM memory. Real hardware RAID controllers all use their own IOP (I/O Processor) and cache (ever wondered why these hardware controllers are expensive?).
There are two kinds of software RAID's. One is controlled by the BIOS/drivers (like Promise/Highpoint) and the other is solely OS dependent. The first kind can be booted from, the second one can only be accessed after the OS has started. In performance terms they do not differ significantly.
For the technically inclined: Cluster size, Block size and Chunk size
In short: Cluster size applies to the partition and Block or Stripe size applies to the array.
With a cluster size of 4 KB, data are distributed across the partition in 4 KB parts. Suppose you have a 10 KB file, three full clusters will be occupied: 4 KB - 4 KB - 2 KB. The remaining 2 KB is called slackspace and can not be used by other files. With a block size (stripe) of 64 KB, data are distributed across the array disks in 64 KB parts. Suppose you have a 200 KB file, the first part of 64 KB is located on disk A, the second 64 KB is located on disk B, the third 64 KB is located on disk C and the remaining 8 KB on disk D. Here there is no slackspace, because the block size is subdivided into clusters. When working with audio/video material a large block size is faster than smaller block size. Working with smaller files a smaller block size is preferred.
Sometimes you have an option to set 'Chunk size', depending on the controller. It is the minimal size of a data request from the controller to a disk in the array and only useful when striping is used. Suppose you have a block size of 16 KB and you want to read a 1 MB file. The controller needs to read 64 times a block of 16 KB. With a chunk size of 32 KB the first two blocks will be read from the first disk, the next two blocks from the next disk, and so on. If the chunk size is 128 KB. the first 8 blocks will be read from the first disk, the next 8 block from the second disk, etcetera. Smaller chunks are advisable with smaller filer, larger chunks are better for larger (audio/video) files.
RAID Levels
For a full explanation of various RAID levels, look here: http://www.acnc.com/04_01_00/html
What are the benefits of each RAID level for video editing and what are the risks and benefits of each level to help you achieve better redundancy and/or better performance? I will try to summarize them below.
RAID0
The Band AID of RAID. There is no redundancy! There is a risk of losing all data that is a multiplier of the number of disks in the array. A 2 disk array carries twice the risk over a single disk, a X disk array carries X times the risk of losing it all.
A RAID0 is perfectly OK for data that you will not worry about if you lose them. Like pagefile, media cache, previews or rendered files. It may be a hassle if you have media files on it, because it requires recapturing, but not the end-of-the-world. It will be disastrous for project files.
Performance wise a RAID0 is almost X times as fast as a single disk, X being the number of disks in the array.
RAID1
The RAID level for the paranoid. It gives no performance gain whatsoever. It gives you redundancy, at the cost of a disk. If you are meticulous about backups and make them all the time, RAID1 may be a better solution, because you can never forget to make a backup, you can restore instantly. Remember backups require a disk as well. This RAID1 level can only be advised for the C drive IMO if you do not have any trust in the reliability of modern-day disks. It is of no use for video editing.
RAID3
The RAID level for video editors. There is redundancy! There is only a small performance hit when rebuilding an array after a disk failure due to the dedicated parity disk. There is quite a perfomance gain achieveable, but the drawback is that it requires a hardware controller from Areca. You could do worse, but apart from it being the Rolls-Royce amongst the hardware controllers, it is expensive like the car.
Performance wise it will achieve around 85% (X-1) on reads and 60% (X-1) on writes over a single disk with X being the number of disks in the array. So with a 6 disk array in RAID3, you get around 0.85x (6-1) = 425% the performance of a single disk on reads and 300% on writes.
RAID5 & RAID6
The RAID level for non-video applications with distributed parity. This makes for a somewhat severe hit in performance in case of a disk failure. The double parity in RAID6 makes it ideal for NAS applications.
The performance gain is slightly lower than with a RAID3. RAID6 requires a dedicated hardware controller, RAID5 can be run on a software controller but the CPU overhead negates to a large extent the performance gain.
RAID10
The RAID level for paranoids in a hurry. It delivers the same redundancy as RAID 1, but since it is a multilevel RAID, combined with a RAID0, delivers twice the performance of a single disk at four times the cost, apart from the controller. The main advantage is that you can have two disk failures at the same time without losing data, but what are the chances of that happening?
RAID30, 50 & 60
Just striped arrays of RAID 3, 5 or 6 which doubles the speed while keeping redundancy at the same level.
EXTRAS
RAID level 0 is striping, RAID level 1 is mirroring and RAID levels 3, 5 & 6 are parity check methods. For parity check methods, dedicated controllers offer the possibility of defining a hot-spare disk. A hot-spare disk is an extra disk that does not belong to the array, but is instantly available to take over from a failed disk in the array. Suppose you have a 6 disk RAID3 array with a single hot-spare disk and assume one disk fails. What happens? The data on the failed disk can be reconstructed in the background, while you keep working with negligeable impact on performance, to the hot-spare. In mere minutes your system is back at the performance level you were before the disk failure. Sometime later you take out the failed drive, replace it for a new drive and define that as the new hot-spare.
As stated earlier, dedicated hardware controllers use their own IOP and their own cache instead of using the memory on the mobo. The larger the cache on the controller, the better the performance, but the main benefits of cache memory are when handling random R+W activities. For sequential activities, like with video editing it does not pay to use more than 2 GB of cache maximum.
REDUNDANCY(or security)
Not using RAID entails the risk of a drive failing and losing all data. The same applies to using RAID0 (or better said AID0), only multiplied by the number of disks in the array.
RAID1 or 10 overcomes that risk by offering a mirror, an instant backup in case of failure at high cost.
RAID3, 5 or 6 offers protection for disk failure by reconstructing the lost data in the background (1 disk for RAID3 & 5, 2 disks for RAID6) while continuing your work. This is even enhanced by the use of hot-spares (a double assurance).
PERFORMANCE
RAID0 offers the best performance increase over a single disk, followed by RAID3, then RAID5 amd finally RAID6. RAID1 does not offer any performance increase.
Hardware RAID controllers offer the best performance and the best options (like adjustable block/stripe size and hot-spares), but they are costly.
SUMMARY
If you only have 3 or 4 disks in total, forget about RAID. Set them up as individual disks, or the better alternative, get more disks for better redundancy and better performance. What does it cost today to buy an extra disk when compared to the downtime you have when a single disk fails?
If you have room for at least 4 or more disks, apart from the OS disk, consider a RAID3 if you have an Areca controller, otherwise consider a RAID5.
If you have even more disks, consider a multilevel array by striping a parity check array to form a RAID30, 50 or 60.
If you can afford the investment get an Areca controller with battery backup module (BBM) and 2 GB of cache. Avoid as much as possible the use of software raids, especially under Windows if you can.
RAID, if properly configured will give you added redundancy (or security) to protect you from disk failure while you can continue working and will give you increased performance.
Look carefully at this chart to see what a properly configured RAID can do to performance and compare it to the earlier single disk chart to see the performance difference, while taking into consideration that you can have one disks (in each array) fail at the same time without data loss:
Hope this helps in deciding whether RAID is worthwhile for you.
WARNING: If you have a power outage without a UPS, all bets are off.
A power outage can destroy the contents of all your disks if you don't have a proper UPS. A BBM may not be sufficient to help in that case.Harm,
thanks for your comment.
Your understanding was absolutely right.
Sorry my mistake its QNAP 639 PRO, populated with 5 1TB, one is empty.
So for my understanding, in my configuration you suggest NOT to use RAID-0. Im not willing to have more drives in my workstation becouse if my projekts are finished, i archiv on QNAP or archiv on other external drive.
My only intention is to have as much speed and as much performance as possible during developing a projekt
BTW QNAP i also use as media-center in combination with Sony PS3 to run the encoded files.
For my final understanding:
C: i understand
D: i understand
E and F: does it mean, when i create a projekt on E, all my captured and project-used MPEG - files should be situated in F? Or which media in F you mean?
Following your suggestions in want to rebulid Harms-Best Vista64-Benchmark comp to reach maximum speed and performance. Can i use in general the those hardware components (exept so many HD drives and exept Areca raid controller ) in my drive configuration C to F. Or would you suggest some changings in my situation? -
To ram,or not to ram,that is the question.
I have a first edition g5 dual 2.0.Ever since I have had this computer I have had this problem where when booting the computer will freeze at the grey screen at start up.This seems to happen to me when I install ram.I have been through 3 episodes where after installing ram the computer would not boot past the grey screen with the apple logo.I will not document all the episodes,but it happens like this a couple of months back I had 4gigs of ram installed in my machine.I had purchased 6 more 1 gig sticks and was going to attempt to max out the slots.I removed the bottom apple stock 256 ram modules and put in 2 1 gig modules in the place of them.I went to boot the machine I see the apple logo,spinning wheel,the wheel stops,will not boot past grey screen.So I took out the newly added modules and put in 2 different 1gig modules,same brand,grey screen,apple logo,wheel stops spinning,no boot.I put in the 2 original apple modules,now it does not boot with them installed.I take out all the ram except the two stock modules,and disconnect the spare hd.I try to boot everything stock,same thing,stuck at grey screen.I tried to boot the machine the next night,after over half a dozen attempts I was able to fully boot,once I was in I decided to reinstall the the os,10.2.7 that came with the unit.I did a complete reinstall.When I was done I tried to restart the computer,it froze at the grey screen.I have a g5 imac at work,and at home.I used those machines for the next three months,and one day I had a chance to start early with apple tech support and maybe resolve my issue.I had done some rearranging in the other room so I moved the g5 in there.I hooked up my apple 15" cinema display plugged her in and off she went,it booted with no problems!Why?How could this be?So I have been using the unit for the last few months stock configuration,updated 10.2.7 to tiger,currently with updates at 10.5.All I have used the unit for is ripping movies with handbrake,done at least 200.There is only about 1 month left on my warranty,I have been interested in selling or trading the unit before my warranty runs out.Last night I plugged the cables back into my spare hd.zeroed out the data rebooted all was well.I took out the stock ram,install 2gigs of the ram I had tried before,I reboot,apple logo,no spinning wheel,freeze at grey screen.I found this last episode the weirdest with the grey screen on this attempt I did not get the spinning wheel,the wheel did not show.I shut down and installed 2 1gig sticks that originally worked.reboot,grey screen,logo,no wheel,no boot.I reinstalled the original ram,same as above,grey screen.I started up in safe mode.Repaired disk permissions on the maindrive,run mac janitor,run mem test,mem test reported ram to be ok.I reboot,full start up!What is the deal here!Where do I go from here.On one occasion I called tech support they told me to system diagnostics disk,have done this twice in the past,system passed all test.The way the system sits now its fine,i'm affraid who ever I sold it to would install ram and go through the same ordeal.And I do not want that.I have thought of trying to do the ram install again,then If it freezes boot into safe mode,repair permissions,run mac janitor,run mem test and see if I can get it to work that way.Should I try to run the diagnostics to see if the system passes all the test?My unit is also eligible for a power supply replacement,should I call and have that done and mention these problems?I am all ears.I am open to all suggestions.If you read this far then god bless you!Sorry for such a winded post it could have been longer.
Dual g5 2.0 first run '03 Mac OS X (10.4.5) 512 mb ram,ati radeon 9800,airport,250,320 hdsThis is what it shows:
BANK 0/DIMM0:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 SDRAM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0xCE00000000000000
Part Number: 0x4D342037305435363633515A332D43463720
Serial Number: 0x943236BB
BANK 1/DIMM1:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 SDRAM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0xCE00000000000000
Part Number: 0x4D342037305435363633515A332D43463720
Serial Number: 0x94323607
So it looks like everything is normal, but it's kinda weird if the machine was only made to support up to 2 GB.. I guess it's a good thing.
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