Mechanical or digital source switch for 2 Mac Pros on one 30" display?

I have a 30" display, and use it at the maximum resolution of 2560 x 1600 on my Mac Pro with the NVidia 8800GT card. I have a second Mac Pro with a similar configuration.
I would like to find a switch to send the video to either of these machines.
The DVI switches I have found do not support the higher resolution of the 30" display.
Does anyone know of a device that would allow me to switch the source for the 30" display between two machines?
Thanks....

You need a dual-link DVI switch, such as
<http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=375076>

Similar Messages

Replacing my on/off switch for my Mac Pro 2008

I have been trying to find online a DIY site to help me insure I take my Mac Pro apart correctly so my expensive computer isnt trashed! LOL Seriously, I am good with my hands but will need some idea of getting to my on/off switch and replace it.
Thanks!
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Thanks Bro - Wish I lived in Canada - I'm Thinking about it - it is a very beautiful country !!!
Your help is much appreciated here, from this Texas Guy -- LOL Thank you I will give it a whirl!

Should i get a antivirus for my mac pro

should i get a antivirus for my mac pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

Do I need antiviral software for a Mac Pro notebook

is antiviral protection needed for a Mac Pro notebook

WARNING: "Avast" is useless garbage that will cause you nothing but problems.
1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

I have a belkin 7 adapter for additional USB slots for my Mac Pro. It was working well till just recently I am getting a message that says the usb port on the Mac Pro is shutting down due to a very high power drain. Then it shuts the usb port down.

I have a belkin 7 adapter for additional usb ports for my mac pro. It worked fine without problems till recently when the message regarding usb port drawing too much power and the computer shuts the port on the mac pro down. The strip comes with its own power supply adapter. The attachments are additional hard drives used as backups and independent data. Other than disconnecting it are there any fixes?

You're getting the message because you're exceeding the available current, probably as a result of bus-powered drives. The power sources for hubs are rather small. Try using drives with their own power supplies.

Internal Hard Drives for Apple Mac Pro

Hello there,
Does any one have some advice on the following internal HDs. I am in Germany and this is what I have found that I am interested in. I just don't know if they all are for Apple Mac Pro because the provider doesn't specify.
1) HD 1000GB Western Digital RE2 GP, SATA, intern, 3,5'', 7200rpm, 16MB Cache, RoHS compliant, 5 years warranty (not bad eh?) = 139,00 €
2) HD 1000GB Samsung SpinPoint F1 HD103UJ SATA intern 7200rpm 32MB Cache 8,9ms: 109,00 €
3) HD Seagate Barracuda ES.2, 1000GB, SAS, intern, 3,5'', 7200rpm, 16MB Cache, 8,5ms, 5 years warranty: 214,00 €
Any bad experience with Wester Digital? Or recommendations for internal hard drives, they are greatly appreciated!
I was wondering too, does it affect the hard drive, that the bigger it is the shorter it will live? I love having 1T, and I already got 2T EXTERNALS from WesternDigital. But I am certainly concerned that the bigger they get, the more chances to fail the might have. Does this make sense?
I am also a little doubtful about internals, they seem to fail faster than the externals, is this true in most cases?
I just want to have the capability of storing my Aperture Library in an internal HD, for easy access and all the images on an external drive.
Thank you for the advice!!
Cheers!
E.

http://www.barefeats.com/hard94.html
I would get WD Black, Hitachi (latest, not their earlier model) or Seagate (no need to spend on ES).
WD has been excellent in Mac Pro, I just would skip on GP.
I only had one drive with 4 bad blocks in 20 WD drives.
Personally, I would get 4 x 640GB WD Caviar drives for internal. They are fast, quiet, and run cool. And sells for US$80.
http://www.wdc.com/th/products/products.asp?driveid=394
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Western%20Digital/WD6400AAKS/
http://www.barefeats.com/harper14.html

Switch On Time Mac Pro 5.1

Hello,
i have a Mac Pro 5.1 Mid 2010, 2 x 2,93 Ghz.
When i switch on my Mac Pro with a RAM-Configuration of 4GB, it takes about 4 secounds to see the grey screen with the Apple-Logo.
A RAM-Configuration of 24GB uses about 24 secounds to see the grey screen.
Is that normal that a Mac Pro with more RAM uses more time to come up?
I´m not talking about booting from disk, only the time after switch on to the grey screen.
Thanks to all

Use whichever you like, but they will not mix-and-match.
Early on, larger sizes were only available as RDIMMs, which would not play nice with others. This was a requirement because those early DIMMs required multiple chips, so you needed the Register to provide one apparent Bus load.
Today, only the 16GB modules are RDIMMs.
So if you are not headed for 64GB, use unregistered.
In the US, I recommend this low-cost high-service Vendor:
http://www.datamemorysystems.com/apple-mac-pro-memory-upgrades/
Their line-items clearly call out which are Registered.

I need help. I need a KVM to switch between my Mac Pro and my IBM ThinkPad (docking station).

I need help. I need a KVM to switch between my Mac Pro and my IBM ThinkPad (docking station).
Best Buy (only local option) has only a VGA / USB from iogear that scroll lock doesn't work on the Mac and low and behold I'm a d.a. and didn't notice VGA, ie: want/need DVI.
I don't game on my Mac or do high-end video editing but don't want to step down the video quality too much.
Appreciate all of the forthcoming advice.
Jason

I guess I should have clarified and said "can you please share what you've used and been successful with"
Two that I have been considering are:
ConnectPRO
http://www.connectpro.com/prod_kvm_usb12plusDvi.html
IOGear
http://www.iogear.com/solutions/kvm/?view=displayDVI
If you do the Belkin KVM wizard, as soon as you reference a Mac, they only support VGA and I am not sure why. http://www.belkin.com/kvm/
Thanks for the effort.
Jason

Can I use my iMac as a screen for my Mac Pro via Spaces?

Ok, I know this sounds odd... Nevertheless, I wanted to know if it's possible to do this. I write a lot of music and want to use two completely different computers to manipulate midi files vs. audio files. I want to use my Mac Pro for actually writing the music, and then render the files as audio and arrange them on my iMac.
I don't want to get a second monitor, but rather, be able to flip back and forth between my iMac and my Mac Pro on the same screen, relatively quickly. I'm not sure if Spaces has this capability, ie. using one desktop that corresponds to the iMac and one desktop that corresponds to the Mac Pro, all on the iMac's screen.
Is this even possible or does the iMac not even have the capability of accepting a video signal from my Mac Pro?

If you Mac Pro has a mini display port out, then the iMac can be used as a monior for the Mac Pro. This is from the apples support document:
To use a 27-inch iMac in Target Display mode with another computer as the source:
1. Make sure both computers are turned on and awake.
2. Connect a male-to-male Mini DisplayPort cable to the Mini DisplayPort on each computer. The 27-inch iMac will enter Target Display mode and display content from the source computer.
Note: If you are connecting two 27-inch iMacs, connect a Mini DisplayPort cable to each computer and press Command + F2 on the 27-inch iMac keyboard that you will use as an external display.
3. To leave Target Display mode, press Command + F2 on the keyboard of the 27-inch iMac that is in Target Display mode. To return to Target Display mode, press Command + F2 again.
Here's the actual link:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3924
Glor

CPU stand for a Mac Pro?

Does anyone know of a good source for a CPU stand suitable for a Mac Pro? I know of a couple that I could get in Japan, but shipping or a plane ticket is a bit more then I want to spend.
Something like the following items.
http://www.assiston.co.jp/?item=831
http://www.pawasapo.co.jp/products/mac/prs56.php

Kujako- I do have a CPU 'skate' that I had a Mac Pro on for 4 yrs. I don't know what the metal is but after 4 yrs use it doesn't flex so is sturdy.
I received the skate 4 yrs ago as a gift; it has no identification on it (manufacturer or source), giver not around so can't ask for info. Needs a bit of cleaning but not hard & can do.
It looks a lot like the pics of the Japanese one but not as shiny, wheels smaller.
The base ht is ~3 1/4", wheels are nylon & ~1" diameter, length of inside bed=17.5", width=8".
Wheels don't lock, only go forward & back, not side to side.
If you're interested I'll take pics -1st ones didn't turn out, need better lighting, also not sure how to get in in here but will try if you are interested and I can get instructions for getting a pic on this site. Embarrassingly non-techy at the moment.
The Mac Pro went south--something elect. & I've given up, not worth my effort to do more. Have a new iMac.
So I'm willing to UPS the skate if you're interested in it. Feel free to say No. Just would like to find a good home for a Useful Object.

HT204347 I just buy a Mac Pro from one Company in Cambodia and I really want to check where is the spare part of such mac pro come from? so please help me to check my mac pro, the serial number is SC02H250ADV14 . thanks for your kind assistance

Dear Sir,
I don't know how to search the source product of my Mac Pro which I just buy from one company in Cambodia, the company said that it is made in China and it's part of such Mac Pro is from USA. I'm not sure it is truth or not. So I would like you to double check it for me. The Serial of such Mac Pro is SC02****ADV14 , thanks for your assistance.
Regards,
S
<Edited by Host>

You can type in your machines serial number here to find out a little more about it, however, it won't tell you what components came from what countries to be assembled into the unit you have.

When switching on my Mac Pro on bootup it keep shutting down then eventually it works fine

When switching on my Mac Pro on bootup it keep shutting down then eventually it works fine

I also have the exact same problem with my early 2008 Mac Pro. Last spring, the video card that came with the unit burned out. I brought it in to the Apple Store in my area, but they were unable to really help me out. I ended up replacing the card, but about two or three weeks ago I started having the same exact issue that you do - the Mac would suddenly die occasionally, and then would take quite a few tries to come back up. It seems that resetting the PRAM helps temporarily with me. It has been up since about 3 PM so far, and it is behaving.
My main issue is that replacement parts are expensive for this machine. If I were to replace the power supply and the logic board, Apple would charge me about a thousand bucks! That's simply too much money to drop on a 4 year old computer.
My solution is that I will run it for a while longer, and replace it with the Mac Mini with the ATI GPU. The Mini is about 85% as powerful according to Geekbench, and if it dies I will not be out more than a few hundred bucks.
I will be migrating all my OpenCL code to FreeBSD as well, because replacing a power supply or motherboard in a generic DIY PC is only a hundred or two dollars at the most.

What is a recommended internal hard drive for a Mac Pro 1,1 (2006)?

What is a recommended internal hard drive for a Mac Pro 1,1 (2006) model? I would like to
add more hard drive space by utilizing the three available slots. However, from my understanding,
Apple does not produce hard drives for my older computer so I'll need to turn to a third party.

You are very much over-due for some new larger more efficient drives.
the most common best approach goes something like this....
SSD 120GB for system
WD Black 1-2TB for data (and put all your data and media files, all your home account sub-folders)
Backup. I use WD Green but use what you want. I have a small boot volume, TimeMachine, and 3rd that is a clone image of the boot drive volume.
Very fond of WD 10K VelociRaptor drives. Not much louder now than the WD Black 2TB, $100-200 for 250GB to 1TB.
You can use any size SATA 3.5" drive, most now are 1TB and up to 4TB.
You should have always bought Amazon or Newegg or outside of Apple, Apple can often charge 3x what those places charge.
Probably want to add or replace FBDIMMs you have, these are excellent and price in the last year has fallen.
2x2GB FBDIMM DDR2 667MHz @ $29
http://www.amazon.com/BUFFERED-PC2-5300-FB-DIMM-APPLE-Memory/dp/B002ORUUAC/
WD Black 1TB $93
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Internal-Desktop/dp/B0036Q7MV0/
WD Green 3TB $149 - backup
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Green-Desktop/dp/B004RORMF6/
WD VR 10K 250GB $103 200MB/sec boot drive :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007V5A1BK/
Those last and last and make a nice boot drive.
SSD: Samsung 840 128GB
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Series-120GB-internal-MZ-7TD120BW/dp/B009NHAF06/
Over-due to upgrade and replace the graphic card most likely it sounds like also:
ATI Radeon 5770
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC742ZM/A
http://www.amazon.com/Apple-ATI-Radeon-5770-MC742ZM/dp/B003Z6QH6M
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/726537-REG/Apple_MC742ZM_A_ATI_Radeon_HD_5 770.html
Your OEM 7300GT isn't helping now and with Lion or the X1900 dust magnet and out of date too. If you have a functional 8800GT still working you are lucky and no need.

How do I use Airport Extreme to act as a wireless receiver for a Mac Pro?

Hello -
I'm trying to use an Airport Extreme (1st Generation) as a wireless receiver for a Mac Pro but I can't figure out how. My main modem / wireless router (non-Apple) is upstairs. My Mac Pro is down stairs. I'm looking to get internet connection for that Mac Pro downstairs. Is it possible to use the Airport Extreme to connect the Mac Pro to the wireless internet provided by my wireless router?
Thanks for the help.
Nathan

Is it possible to use the Airport Extreme to connect the Mac Pro to the wireless internet provided by my wireless router?
Unfortunately, Apple designed their routers to work with other Apple routers. It would be extremely unilikely that the AirPort Exteme could be configured to work with a router from another manufacturer.
The AirPort Extreme would need to be configured to "Extend a wireless network", but an error message is almost surely to occur when you try this.
There are other alternatives, but they would involve more hardware. Post back if you are interested.

Can an iMac be used as a monitor for a Mac Pro?

Hi all,
I'm getting nowhere looking in the search, so I'm hoping someone can clear something up for me:
is it possible to use an iMac as a display for a Mac Pro?
I am beginning to think I'd better get a Mac Pro, but I already have an iMac, for which I've been researching getting external storage so I can do Final Cut Studio editing and back up of it all... as someone suggested, might be better in the long run to just get it all in the Mac Pro, and have the option and simplicity to upgrade as and when... but then there's the need for a display for the Mac Pro, which does whack the price up... but if I could use this iMac, what a beautiful monitor...
I thought someone said that Final Cut would not allow another computer to be attached though... is that the case, anyone know?
Thanks for any knowledge and help, much appreciated... I'm learning to not rush into anything, as you learn more the whole picture seems to change!
Cheers, Syd

The current 27-inch iMac can. Other iMac models can't outside of a VNC setup or ScreenRecycler; all such solutions require a standalone monitor for setup and troubleshooting.
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Mechanical or digital source switch for 2 Mac Pros on one 30" display?

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