Metis 266 w/ 160GB hard disk?

I bought a Metis 266 to replace a slow NAS I had for file sharing (its capacity was too small and I could gain a printer server with the Metis). Well, I already had the 160 GB Maxtor disk partitioned into 2 parts, one is 4 GB for the OS and the other was the remainder of the disk (about 150 GB). Immediately I discovered all data on the large partition was corrupted (or at least unreadable by the Metis). I reformat and start copy all of my files. All looks good. I then decide to dump the remainder of the files I have (over 120 GB) and wake up to find the machine rebooted and the boot partition now corrupted. I reloaded once again and, well, the boot partition gets corrupted again. I repartition completely, install, and copy all of my files again. Not surprisingly, there is only 128GB of available space (3GB + 124 GB partitions now set up). I'm using Windows 2000 and disk manager shows no additional unpartitioned space. All of my files copy correctly now, but I lose capacity and only have 7 GB of available. I would like all 160 GB addressable since the only real purpose of this unit is to be a file server. I thought this thing could address 48-bit LBA, but it doesn't mention anything in the manual anywhere. What is strange is that the BIOS reports the 163GB drive correctly. I find this all very strange. Am I stuck with 128 GB? I cannot find any low profile IDE cards out there that will do the job, SIIG has one but it is limited to 128 GB drives. I was planning on later upgrading the Maxtor to an even larger disk, so you can see the 7 GB I have left won't last me long. I can get by for now. Any help on getting around this is appreciated.

I've been playing with this for a couple of days now. I'm so glad I don't have to rely on this barebones pc, but I find this setback frustrating and time consuming. Trying various settings, partition sizes, and drivers have not allowed me to utilize the entire capacity of the drive. Every time I create a combination of partitions to utilize the entire 160GB and I start filling up the capacity, the same thing happens. I reach a certain point during file copy, a reboot is forced, and my boot partition is corrupted. The problem is I cannot pinpoint the exact reason for this. The BIOS reports the correct size, all of the Maxtor utilities are able to verify and test the drive, I partition and format, and begin copying files. Only during this process do things foul up. I've used this drive for a while and it tests good, so I know that is not the problem. Windows 2000 is up to date and shouldn't be a problem either (it works fine with a 250GB disk on my other system). I suspect the implementation for large disk support is flawed in the BIOS or Via drivers somewhere. My next step is to acquire a Highpoint ATA low profile controller card (either their own card or the Adaptec RAID version). I know these cards are available in the format I need and hopefully large disk support is implemented correctly.

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Upgrading MacBook with 160GB Hard Disk?

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Rob

Check the hard drive compatibility reports on http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/
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Hi
I have a PowerBook G4 1Ghz (Nov 2002). I want to upgrade the internal 4200rpm 60gb drive to a 5400rpm 160gb.
Can my PowerBook address the full 160gb? Or is it limited to only addessing 128GB of it.
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I'm just wondering why the 667 won't recognise them?
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Hard disk: bought 160GB, shows only 149GB

Hello,
I searched around the discussion forums, but did not find any hint.
I bought a new MacBook Pro with 160GB hard disk (built to order). When the machine came, I just started up, configured, migrated my data from my old G4 Powerbook and everything went fine.
Now, while I am preparing for Leopard upgrade, I saw that the disk drive tells me
that it has a total capacity of 149GB. But I bought an 160GB.
So, where has the 11GB go?
Any hint? Swap space?
Thanks a lot and have a nice day
Message was edited by: IPM

This is to be expected. Hard disk manufacturers advertise the disk capacity in base 10 units. Your computer uses / reports the disk size in base 2 units. As drive size increases, the "lost" (not really though) space will increase as well.
There is a good explanation here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigabyte
sp

Hard disks, partitions and Mac Pro

Hi all,
I'm new to the Mac Pro and am migrating from a Windows environment, I have used a iBook for the past 6 months and this is the reason for totally migrating to a Mac Desktop.
I have spent half a day on browsing the forum here, very confusing I must say but then again I add that I am an absolute a-technical person.
I have a few questions on storage which I hope might get answered here;
My Hardware:
I am about to order a 2,66ghz Mac Pro, 4GB Ram, XP1900 and a 160Gb hard disk will will be replaced as soon as the Mac Pro enters my dwelling.
My Work Environment:
Apart from the basic office things, Internet, Mail and such I will use the mac Pro 90% for Imaging purposes. Most used applications:
- CS2
- Aperture
- Adobe Lightroom
as well as a number of add-ons like HDR programs, Noise programs, RAW converters etc.
I am a Photographer working with Mid-format and Standard format images, which in some case, like when using HDR can reach sizes of well over 150-200Mb per image!
Useually the image size of a 16bit mid-format tiff are around 70MB.
Now for the question, how to configure the best possible HD setup.
I will use WinXP, which I would like to run on a seperate partition/disk
I need a schratch disk for CS2
I need roughly 500GB of intermediate storage for imgaes before the periodically get back-up to external hard disk.
So I was thinking the following, and this only based upon how I used my Win Environment:
150GB Raptor as start-up disk and location for programs and OSX as well as basic documents and files
76GB Raptor as Scratchdisk
500GB as WinXp disk (30%) and rest as storage for Image cataloging system (mainly normal sized Jpegs)
750GB as Image tank
I have the Raptors, but don't have to use them if a better solution comes out. Since I will be using my Win pc until everythink works satisfactory on the Mac...
some remarks:
I have red about raid, both 0 and 1 seem interesting but I will loose out on disk space possibilities, and will be forced to work with external drives again, which I don't like... but if push comes to shove I will do that.
sorry for the information overload, and maybe all points have been answered in other threads before, but whilst browsing through hundreds of threads I couldn't see the forest becasue of the trees anymore.
One last comment, I make my living with photography so a good setup is of vital importance ....
Kindest regards, and many thanks in advance

Hi all,
Hi,
Now for the question, how to configure the best
possible HD setup.
IMO; use a 3 drive RAID 0 for your boot, application, and
data partition - my style would be all in one big partition
and just segragate stuff with folders. I would then add 2
USB or FireWire drives. One for backing up your system
and one for the windows XP if you just have to have windows
running on your MacPro. They don't run at the same time you
know - like on Amiga where MacOS, Windows, and AmigaOS all
multitasked together in shared memory space simultainiously.
As such my opinion is that it's better to keep your WinTel
box on a KBM switch and LAN the two together.
I will use WinXP, which I would like to run on a
seperate partition/disk
I need a schratch disk for CS2
With a 3 drive RAID your disk I/O is between 3 and 20 times
the speed of a single drive setup so separate cache drive
isn't really advantagious. Click on the link below and
scroll down to the Drive Test area:
http://db.xbench.com/merge.xhtml?doc1=199338&doc2=195252
Both are my profiles. One with a single drive, and one
with a 3-drive raid. No other differences.
I need roughly 500GB of intermediate storage for
imgaes before the periodically get back-up to
external hard disk.
So I was thinking the following, and this only based
upon how I used my Win Environment:
150GB Raptor as start-up disk and location for
programs and OSX as well as basic documents and
files
76GB Raptor as Scratchdisk
500GB as WinXp disk (30%) and rest as storage for
Image cataloging system (mainly normal sized Jpegs)
750GB as Image tank
I have the Raptors, but don't have to use them if a
better solution comes out. Since I will be using my
Win pc until everythink works satisfactory on the
Mac...
IMO the Raptors are overpriced. If it were me I would sell
them. I think the two together will pay for all three 320
or 300 gig RAID drives. I did some research regarding which
drives are good in a Mac RAID environment and I ended up
going for the the MaxLine Maxtor drives (even though I hate
Maxtor usually). So far I'm very happy with them and the
fact that they are like one of the most inexpensive drives
you can get didn't hurt either.
I think that if a person REALLY needs the speed offered by
Raptor drives and is willing to pay the difference for it
then they should just get a dedicated RAID card which offers
even more of a speed increase!!!
some remarks:
I have red about raid, both 0 and 1 seem interesting
but I will loose out on disk space possibilities, and
will be forced to work with external drives again,
which I don't like... but if push comes to shove I
will do that.
You don't lose any space if you use just RAID 0. If there
are three 300gig HDs that format individually to 260gig
each then in a RAID 0 configuration you would have 780gigs.

Dual G5 hangs while booting from internal hard-disk

Hi,
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Same problem here.
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Thinking about upgrading my Powerbook G4 hard disk to 160GB

I am thinking about upgrading my powerbook G4 hard disk to 160GB, or even larger if possible...
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but I also notice one thing... it says that any powerbook model prior to 2003 might not support the any hard disk over 120G....
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The 1.25Ghz Powerbook came out in fall 2003, so if what MacSales says is true, then it should work.

How to manage a huge movies library to limited 160GB AppleTV hard disk ?

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Hence I'm asking you which could be the best settings on iTunes to let me:
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2) watching the movie I choose (not yet seen) on ATV
Furthermore I know that it's possible to setup iTunes in order to have on ATV only content not already seen but, I guess, this could point not having the entire "list" of movies on ATV, am I right ?
Hoping to being clear.
dalrmi.

this would be a great feature to have in Airport Extreme or Time Capsule. (if anybody reads these) I never understood why Apple didn't make Time Capsule do exactly what you ask for.
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K7T266 Pro2 v2.0, hard disk 160GB

Hello.
Does anyone know, what is the maximum size of hard disks for the K7T266? According to http://www.msi.com.tw/program/support/hdd_support/hdd/spt_hdd_list.php?CHIP=Archives&ID=4, at least 160GB drives are supported, and I would expect (!!! I didn't test it !!!), that 250GB disks will work as well. But I'm going to by a 300GB disk. So the question is: Is such a big hard disk supported at all? And if not, what will happen? Will the board e.g. only support the first 256GB or will the 256GB be substracted from the capacity (thus only making 44GB available to me)? If anyone has tested this already, please tell me.
Regards, Bodo

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http://www.48bitlba.com/
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How do i burn idvd projects in a dvd format to an external hard disk

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Thanks in advance.

iDVD does not care about file size (it compresses a movie file by about 4:1 o the standard mpeg2 format), only about length.
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iDVD encoding settings:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=iDVD/7.0/en/11417.html
Short version:
Best Performance is for videos of up to 60 minutes
Best Quality is for videos of up to 120 minutes
Professional Quality is also for up to 120 minutes but even higher quality (and takes much longer)
That was for single-layer DVDs. Double these numbers for dual-layer DVDs.
Professional Quality: The Professional Quality option uses advanced two-pass technology to encode your video (The first pass determines which parts of the movie can be given greater compresson without quality loss and which parts can’t. The second pass then encodes those different parts accordingly) , resulting in the best quality of video possible on your burned DVD. You can select this option regardless of your project’s duration (up to 2 hours of video for a single-layer disc and 4 hours for a double-layer disc). Because Professional Quality encoding is time-consuming (requiring about twice as much time to encode a project as the High Quality option, for example) choose it only if you are not concerned about the time taken.
In both cases the maximum length includes titles, transitions and effects etc. Allow about 15 minutes for these.
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Use the Capacity meter in the Project Info window (choose Project > Project Info) to determine how many minutes of video your project contains.
NOTE: With the Best Performance setting, you can turn background encoding off by choosing Advanced > “Encode in Background.” The checkmark is removed to show it’s no longer selected. Turning off background encoding can help performance if your system seems sluggish.
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http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1502?viewlocale=en_US

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Like many old MacBook users right about now, we're all thinking about upgrading our 60 or 80 GB OEM hard drives. Well, I went and did it and I have a few questions after-the-fact, not to mention documenting my experience.
First I chose the Seagate Momentus 160GB 7200.2 (ST9160823ASG). This replaces the OEM Seagate Momentus 80GB 5400.2 (ST98823AS). The reason for this is simple ... the OEM drive worked flawlessly and I was willing to spend a little extra to ensure continued performance. I also chose to bundle it with a CMS USB 2.0 external enclosure data transfer kit to re-use my old drive.
My first surprise was that the CMS auto-transfer software was Windows only, despite the fact they make a Macintosh back-up product. The second surprise was that there was no Apple auto-transfer options. I literally spent an hour searching the Apple website and built-in help and tutorials to find a way to do this. Thanks to all on this discussion website as I ended up choosing a third party "clone" software to copy my old drive.
Which brings me to my first question. Every-time I tried to use Disk Utility to make a disk image of my old disk, I got the response that the disk image failed because resources were in use. Is that normal? Is there a way to make a back-up disk image using included Apple disk utilities? If not, then Apple NEEDS to spell it out, rather than a one line blurb in the disk install manual they publish that says basically: first back up your data. Thanks Apple, big help.
So I ended up using Carbon Copy Cloner, for a variety of reasons. A. it's $5 shareware and B. it specifically got better reviews than SuperDuper ($27). As far as I can tell, Carbon Copy Cloner did an exceptional job of perfectly backing up my old HD. BUT ...
Now here comes the next question ... the CMS enclosure seemed fine, but between CarbonCopyCloner and the USB 2.0 interface, it took over 9 hours to make a disk image of my old hard drive!!! Is THAT normal? Would a Firewire interface have sped this process up? Is SuperDuper faster? I must admit when I then used Disk Utility to restore the disk to the new drive, it took another 6 hours, so my guess is it wasn't the software's fault. Maybe it just takes a **** of a long time to move 80GB data. If the USB 2.0 interface is the bottleneck, then I highly recommend paying extra for a firewire enclosure. Would love to get a definitive answer here.
The process of installing the drive was simple. Thank you Apple (seriously). The new drive booted right up and the system is as zippy as ever ... but you knew it was coming:
The new 7200 rpm drive ran smoothly and absolutely silently in the external enclosure when I was backing up the old HD. Once installed, I immediately noticed a new vibration. Nothing huge, but it's there when now it wasn't on the OEM drive. The whole MacBook vibrates, stem to stern. The drive also seems hotter under my palm. Seeing all manor of these "VIBRATION" issues on other posts, I would suggest that anyone upgrading to a new drive, install the HD first to ***** the level of vibration before going to the lengthy duplicating process. It also seems to spin constantly, which the 5400 may well have done too but was otherwise unnoticeable.
My question here is, since these drives are virtually identical, does the 7200 rpm cause the added vibration & heat not present on the 5400, or could I have less-than-optimal drive which might be improved with a different drive? Also, the last time I had a high vibration drive on my PowerBook G3 it continued to get worse over the course of a year and Apple finally replaced it under Apple Care.
All-in-all it was a simple and relatively straightforward process once I found all the pieces, that is and Apple did not make it easy. I chewed up a lot of time I did not have looking for instructions. I've been using Macs since the original Macintosh in 1984. Ah I long for the days when I could just open a disk, insert another, select all and drag the contents to a new disk and voila! An exact copy of the original. Apple finally gets an A+ for RAM & Drive upgrade accessibility. But they get an F for making the data migration process as complicated as possible, particularly for something as important as our data. I'm sure their strategy is for everyone to take their computers to the Apple Store for upgrades and anyone else should already know how to do it. Well, I would suggest that most of us fall somewhere in the middle. We can put the new drive in and backup our data, but like making a good cake, we need the recipe.

Doug, I appreciate your input, however re-installing OSX is exactly what I DON'T want to do. Not only would it take an extended amount of time to update from 10.4.6 to 10.4.10 but importing files from the old hard disk comes nowhere near copying over every modification I've made to my system. The idea here, as I would think with anyone upgrading their hard drive with a perfectly working system, is to increase disk space and just keep right on going without missing a step. WIth all due respect your suggestion is absolutely the wrong advice in this situation. The last time I took such advice, I found myself missing many of the system helper applications allowing me to access hardware and software and all of it had to be reinstalled as I discovered things were no longer working as they should have. I DO NOT recommend re-installing OS X to anyone wishing to upgrade their drive, unless you are having problems with your system or just want to clean house. Apple should understand this. The bug thing on the install disk is just one of the many headaches involved in this process. My understanding was that I cannot make a disk image from the install disk was well as being unable to restore. However, if that's possible, then I could have done what I wanted without using a third party "shareware" solution. I will check it out and report back. Call me paranoid, but I would prefer to keep my data backup in the hands of those who formatted it originally, i.e. Apple. I would happily use a proven commercial utility, but for something as routine as upgrading my hard disk, I shouldn't have to pay to do it. Time was, if Apple had a bug in their startup utility disk, they would have corrected the error and sent a replacement to all registered users. Time was.

Replacing MacBook Pro hard disk

Hi to all. I found on the web tutorials about replacing hard-disk on the MacBook but nothing about MacBook Pro! Is this operation very difficult or much more difficult that on the MacBook? Anyone is able to indicate me haw to do or a tutorial? I would like to replace my 80GB with a 160GB HD.
Thank you to all of you!

sorry I can't offer any direct advice. but I think the reason why it's easier and there is user info on how to swap out the drives in the macbook is because they are the first apple notebook to have a drive designed to be replaceable by the user, AFAIK. it's ironic, but the macbook pro is not designed with a user-swapabble drive, so that's prob why you're having trouble finding a guide to do it. also be aware that opening the machine voids your warranty. that said, I have heard of people that took their MBP in to a computer service place to have the drive replaced, so if you don't find out how to do it yourself, you could try taking it somewhere. btw, my grandmother came from varese..

Hard Disk Not Exist! help pls!

Hi techies,
I was using my hp compaq when I froze. I did powered it off and restarted only to be confronted with "hard disk not exist". I tried to run diagnostics on the hard disk as directed by the functions buttons and it kept say stuff, "install operating system for hard disk". I've met a guy who knows stuff about such n he says my hd is fried and I'll have to get a new one. I'm kind of surprised as the laptop is barely a year old. He took out the hard drive and put in an external drive enclosure and on connecting to another computer, he couldn't get a read on the hard drive.
My questions are;
- is it possible for me to retrieve all my files from my hard disk? It'll be like going back to the stone age to try to start afresh. If it is, how? If not all, what kind of files can I retrieve and how?
- what is the cause of this damage to my hard drive because my system gave me no warning.
Pls, reply asap.
Thanks guys.

Your friend did the pretty much standard procedure to see if any files can be read and retrieved from the failed hdd. There are data recovery companies out there but they aren't cheap. It is always advisable to have an external usb hdd for backup.
All hdds fail after time ,though laptop hdds seem to have a higher/faster failure rate due to the confined case and extra heat. SATA hdds seem to die much faster than the older Ide type drives in laptops and desktops from what I have seen.
Not uncommon to see posts about a laptop hdd dying after 1-1 1/2 years,though I have been fortunate with mine which is 3 yrs old. I do use a laptop cooling pad under mine which may contribute to it's longer life.
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Metis 266 w/ 160GB hard disk?

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