Mi imac 10.8.5 en la parte de atrás, paso mis dedos y me da una pequeña vibración como uncosquilleo en los dedos, es normal?
mi imac 10.8.5 en la parte de atrás, paso mis dedos y me da una pequeña vibración como uncosquilleo en los dedos, es normal?
Bueno, no las puse en su momento pero ahora sí las pongo:
15), 16) y 17) 3 ERRORES MÁS EN 3 INTENTOS, FALLIDOS, DE COPIAS DE SEGURIDAD UTILIZANDO TIME MACHINE...
Así que desisto de hacer más copias de seguridad...
Los datos que pueda archivar y pierda a partir de ahora, esas pérdidas, las voy a responsabilizar a Apple, ya que es un producto suyo, Time Machine, el que no me permite realizar copias de seguridad (hasta las copias de seguridad que me permitió hacer antes de las dos reinstalación del Leopard Original,10.5.4 en mi iMac 8,1, han fallado estrepitosamente, además de haber hecho desaparecer datos muy valiosos para mí).
Insistiré hasta la saciedad: MI IMAC 8,1 Y OSX LEOPARD LLEVAN YA CASI 3 MESES IMPIDIÉNDOME AVANZAR EN MI TRABAJO LITERARIO, MUSICAL Y FOTOGRÁFICO.
NOVO PINTO (compositor/productor/escritor/fotógrafo freelance e indignadísimo).
Similar Messages
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Mi imac se calienta mucho por la parte de arriba detrás.
Mi imac se calienta mucho por la parte de arriba por detrás, los ventiladores estan abajo y los he limpiado, alguién sabe que puede ser?
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Photoshop CS6 keeps crashing. I am using a brand new IMAC, I have 16GB RAM recently updated as it was running slow with 8GB and lots of hardrive space. When it crashes, i lose all my presents and it changes my preferences, it also fails to save or produce a recovered file despite settings asking it to do so every 5 mins now. When i try to report the problem, it says it has found an issue and gives me a link to a solution....but wont let me click on the link.... PLEASE HELP! It's killing my productivity.
If the crash started right after you added RAM, it could be a bad Ram dimm. You can try this - change the amount of RAM in Photoshop to 4G, this should stop Photoshop from using the higher ram. If it doesn't crash, it's probably the ram. Or run a diagnostic app. You don't say when it crashes, what you're doing when it crashes - it there a pattern? Did it ever work on this computer? Did it work on your previous computer? Without a lot of data, it could be related to the new computer... What OS version? Did you recently update it? Have you updated Photoshop to the most recent update?
Do you have any plug-ins loaded? Try restarting Photoshop, and immediately press & hold the shfit key to turn off plug-ins. -
B uen dia, Tengo Un iphone 4 y sí me callo al Consuelo porción accidente y el cristal de la instancia de parte de Atrás quedo roto, ¿Quiero Saber sí puedo comprar ESA a instancia de parte de mi iPhone?
Hola si estas interesado yo puedo venderte uno nuevo color blanco contactar...
[email protected] -
Hola! en un imac de 27 pulgadas de finales del 2013 no hay ninguna manera de que conectando a una televisión ULTRAHD de 4k se vea en esa definición y no en 1080 solo? porque se ve todo muy grande! Alguien me puede contestar porfavor? Gracias de antemano
Estoy en mavericks 10.9.3
No va a existir soporte 4k para los imacs?no problem for your language! i dons write in encglis but with google trasnlator! jajaja!
there is no imac with 4k. But I have a definition TV with 4K. And I want to connect my imac to the tv. But I can only get to 1920 resolution. And you see all the letters and large windows! and I wonder if there is something to connect an imac to a tv and be able to see everything smaller but readable. -
ho aggiornato a 10.7.4. Da quel momento non sono più visibili nella parte destra del dock i link che avevo trascinato per una apertura più rapida. Ad esempio prima trascinavo a fianco della cartella download situata nel dock il link di Italiamac e me lo mostrava sotto forma di icona con spirale/molla alla base. Ora passandoci sopra con il mouse appare solo il nome del link, ma visivamente è come se non ci fosse. Come si fa perché riappaia l'icona? Spero di essermi spiegato. Grazie
rough Bing translation:
From that time are no longer visible on the right side of the dock links that I had dragged for a faster aperture.
For example first trailed alongside the downloads folder in the dock and Italiamac links showed me in the form of a coiled spring icon with/at the base.
Now passing over it with the mouse only appears the name of the link, but visually it is as if there were.
How do you (cause) the icon reappear?
I hope that I explained. -
acabo de comprar una imac y kierop instalar algun programa pero no puedo, tengo que poner usuario y contraseña.. apenas la predi y no le ingresado alguna contraseña mia qyue puedo hacer
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As i said before, i live in brasil and i´m thinking about buying the new iMac 21.5" at Dubai. My question is will the system operate in english and will the power supply outlet come diferently as it happens in Europe.
noondaywitch wrote:
Interesting. The UAE store arabic keyboard appears to be almost normal English apart from the modifier key idents being written in full.
I was expecting more like the "input sources" layout.
It seems that all the photos of bluetooth arabic keyboards in all Apple online stores are of just ordinary US keyboards. Someone was too lazy to supply a real one. Google images has this: -
I'm about to go on a trip overseas, i'd like to buy my Iphone on a dutyfree shop, can I use it normally when I'll fogot back to France ?
Non, je ne crois pas que l'uiliser le iPhone sans avoir le micro-sim soit possible.
Je crois que Apple rend le iPhone inutile sans l'activation, qui est seulement possible avic un sim. On ne peut pas l'activer sur iTunes sans le sim.
Cela fait quelques mois sans avoir ecrit en francais. Sorry!! -
Como poner una canción como tono del telefono en iPhone 5s
Como usar una cancion como tono del Telefono?
Primero hay que convertir las canciones en tonos de llamada. Son archivos de diferente tipo y, además, solamente pueden durar entre 20 y 30 segundos dependiendo del operador telefónico.
Puedes comprar tonos de llamada en iTunes o puedes hacerlo con las canciones que ya tengas en tu librería musical o puedes descargarlos tonos de llamada de algunos sitios web, tanto de pago como gratis.
Para hacer tu propio tono de llamada existen apps en la App Store que son muy faciles de usar. Yo uso una que se Ringtone Pro pero hay muchísimas otras que también funcionan bien. Ringtone Pro es gratis y te la descargas a tu iPhone. Desde ella haces el tono de tus canciones eligiendo la parte que quieres oir porque hay muchas canciones que tienen una introducción larga y como solo son 30 segundos normalmente es preferible comenzar el tono directamente en el estribillo o por lo menos en la parte de la canción que realmente quieres oir cuando te llamen.
Luego la misma aplicación te envía un correo electrónico con el archivo ya en formato de tono musical. Lo abres en tu computadora y lo guardas en la carpeta de iTunes de tonos musicales. Entonces sincronizas tu iPhone con tu iTunes y te aseguras de tener seleccionada la sincronización de tonos musicales.
Una vez dentro de tu iPhone estará en Ajustes > Sonidos > tonos de llamada. lo asignas como tono general o como tono especial para algún contacto (esto último desde la app de contactos).
Parece complejo pero es realmente facil. Pruebalo. Si no quieres, hay paginas webs que te los ofrecen gratis pero claro es mejor hacerlos tu con tus canciones y con la parte de las mismas que más te gustan. -
Here in India, and here when someone decides to buy a new Apple product ( Mac Series ) our dreams are partially killed by the folks at Apple India, Why you ask? Well we don't get to build our own computer! Yes, they have ( Apple India ) preconfigured a set of iMac's and we have to choose from those and those only, there is no " official " way to upgrade your iMac's Internals. (https://www.apple.com/in/imac/specs/ )
Now to my Question : Part ONE
Since my iMac HDD at purchase which was officially upgradable ( 1TB 5400RPM ) is too slow for Video Editing, and I want to upgrade to a Samsung 850 Pro series SSD, so I had contacted OWC to help me out, but they said that they couldn't find my iMac's model number anywhere so it got me to wonder what is happening...!
I conacted OWC to help me upgrade my Late 2013 21.5 Inch iMac 's RAM from 8GB to its maximum capacity that is 16GB, and to upgrade the 1TB HDD to a 1TB SSD, but they said that my iMac was no where to be found so I opened this page up and I was not able to find it also...( How to identify iMac models ) which got me worrying to the authenticity of the product.
Part TWO :
Is it safe to get an SSD upgrade and RAM upgrade as I saw the video for a 21.5 Inch iMac upgrade as it has to be opened up 100% till its last screw so was just wondering .
My iMac details :
Name : iMac14, 3 ( Late 2013, 21.5 Inch )
Processor :
2.9GHz
quad-core Intel Core i5 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.6GHz) with 6MB L3 cache
NO Option for Core i7 was available.
RAM : 8GB (two 4GB) of 1600MHz DDR3 memory ( No 16GB Option was available through Apple! Not even for the 27 Inch Version! )
GPU : NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M graphics processor with 1GB of GDDR5 memory
HDD : 1TB HDD at 5400 RPM ( ABSOLUTELY No Option was given for Flash Storage or SSD or Fusion Drive )
OSX Version : OSX Mavericks 10.9.5
A BIG THANK YOU IN ADVANCE, and apologies for the enormous description of my issue!Your post was updated after mine was in transit...
Prior to first edit, that did not mention Thunderbolt.
By that time, I'd already posted once and then
had more info from a second browser window
that I had double-checked, & added a few words.
Nothing was missed, and my reply was not in
any way related to your comment. I said SSD
and Thunderbolt. Interchangeable w/ iMac HDD
at a later time, thus use clone or separate full
installation for that purpose. Bootable copy, etc.
Be that as it may, I am aware of the specs for the iMac 21.5"
models and you can also see them at everymac.com as well
as in the download database from http://mactracker.ca are
both adequate to compare specs. Also, the macsales.com
OWC site tells quite a bit.
The idea to use SSD and not HDD in the external could
suffice to avoid opening the iMac altogether if the result
was faster than unavailable? internal 7200 RPM upgrade.
The data rate via enclosure and Thunderbolt would likely
be a little slow using an SSD, but a running OS X can be
used from an external, as suggested. Note the data rate
that is published to be sure to get the best match SSD
for later installation inside the iMac 21.5.
I was not advocating a 7200-RPM spin rate HDD, instead
the idea was to compare the SSD in an external via
Thunderbolt, since it would barely be acceptable compared
to the internal data bus speed rate the internal HDD has
available to it...
To buy an external enclosure suitable for the SSD and set it
up as an alternative to the 5400-RPM internal 1TB, then at
a later time (pending location of pro service tech) swap it
into the computer; then internal 1TB could be installed in an
enclosure. That is, if both are compatible/interchangable &
can be used inside the iMac as well as an enclosure.
OWC has some fine examples of SSDs, as well as enclosures.
Some of their instruction videos are plausible, if you have the
model in question, and the model identification is correct to spec.
Besides, the 27-inch iMac Late-2013 sports a 7200-RPM HDD.
And up to 3TB capacity, and 1TB Flash. 32GB RAM, etc.
Anyway, I am not quibbling about semantics here.
Good luck & happy computing! -
I have two apple id's one from my old laptop and one from my iPhone. I saved my iTunes library to my external hard drive right before my old mac laptop died and then tried to transfer it to my new iMac. Now when I try to play my old music it skips like a scratched cd. Also, now I can't add any music to my iPhone unless it was purchased recently through itunes and downloaded through icloud. I tried to "Organize" my library in hopes of correcting the problem but my iMac just ejects my external harddrive part way through. Please help!
Ejects the harddrive?
Of what did your old Mac die?
It sounds to me like you have some file corruption somewhere. Either in the transfer of your library to the external or the external itself is flaky if it keeps ejecting. -
IPad no longer connects remotely to my iMac
I got Splashetop Remote Desktop for the iPad the other day and it worked great for a few minutes but then it simply stopped working. It would no longer connect to my iMac remotely. But the worst part of it is now none of the remote apps on my iPad are working either. I'm talking about apps like Air Video, Remote HD, Rowmote, and Mobile Mouse. None of these apps will connect to my Mac anymore when they worked perfectly before. Same goes for the Apple Remote App with home sharing turned on. Interestingly, the same apps still all work perfectly on my iPod Touch (minus Splashtop Remote Desktop) which I don't have for the iPod Touch).
Clearly Splashstop Remote did something to the connection between the iMac and the iPad because everything was working before I tried it for the first time.
I've erased Splashetop Remote from the iPad and uninstalled its server application from the iMac. I even did a full reset of the iPad followed by a restore from a few days ago. Still nothing. Wifi on the iPad has been working fine the entire time as I can surf the web, check email, Twitter, etc... So it's just remote access apps tat won't work anymore even though essentially the same apps on my iPod Touch still do work. Firewall is off and I don't use antivirus software.
It might help to add that all the remote apps on the iPad keep timing out. Also, occasionally Rowmote quickly flashes some sort of "GFL Socker Error" message. It flashes so fast it's impossible to read it so the first part may be wrong. I definitely saw the words Socket and Error though. It's really the only thing I have to go on.
I've also repaired permissions on my iMac.
I would really appreciate it if anybody could provide any help. I've already worked on this issue for a few days and so far the developers of Splashtop Remote hace been no help. I don't know if this is an IOS or OSX issue or both?
-PNSince you purchased a copy of Remote HD, send us an email at [email protected]
We will assist you in getting your iPad back online again. -
IMac G3 chimes two to four times upon boot and fails to load.
Hello, all.
Today, I moved my aunt from my old iMac G3 to my less old iMac G4. The iMac G3 was working great still at her house, so I decided to take it home with me to replace the iMac G4. I didn't really plan on using it to any extent, but thought it would be cool to have still working.
So I pop it in the car on the passenger seat, drive the mile back home, and unload it onto my desk. I plug power, ethernet, keyboard/mouse and a USB extension cable in, and attempt to boot. When I hit the power button, the iMac makes an attempt to chime, but it kinda does two loud chimes, a faint third chime, and a fourth loud chime. After that, it just sits there with the power button light on and nothing happens.
Now I'm gonna admit it. This was done on an extension cord coming off of a three-way splitter coming off a power strip. Not the safest or most practical way to do this, but I figured that since it worked with my old eMac G4 that had a 17" CRT, it would work with my iMac G3 with a 15" CRT.
So I moved the power directly to the wall. This time, I plugged in only the power and nothing else. I press the power button, and it still does the weird chime and fails to load.
So does anyone have any clues as to what to try? Before you tell me to bust this thing open, I'm gonna say this: I am deathly afraid of CRT monitors, and generally stay as far away as humanly possible from them. The iMac has had a history of few problems, but one of those was a loud, high pitched noise coming from the screen when it was in my aunt's basement. This was probably due to being to cold, or humidity, but switching screen resolutions seemed to fix it. I could switch back and it went along fine. I know it's the screen that was making the sound because my eMac had done the same thing just a week prior, even though it was in an environmentally-sound room, along with some other computers.
Anyway, she has since moved the iMac G3 up to the main part of the house that stays at a fairly steady 75F or so year round and doesn't get too humid. It's worked great, and we were gonna move her up to the G4 for speed benefits and so that she could video chat in Skype. When I last powered down the iMac G3, it was running absolutely fine. I got all the important data off it (thank God) and transferred to the iMac G4. I gently, without bumping it on anything, took it out to the car, gently set it on the foam-cushioned seat, and gently drove it home. When I got it home, I gently took it out, gently took it to the desk, and gently set it down. After a while, I put it screen-down on my lap to read the stuff on the bottom. I undid the RAM cover, popped out a stick, and put it back in. I haven't really gone back to check, but I'm about 90% sure that I got it in perfectly fine. After I looked at it, I gently set it back on the table and did the whole boot process that I explained earlier.
So what in the world could be causing this? Did I really bump it on something, or could it be a weather problem, or could it be that it decided to just stop working at the most perfect time?
Specs are as follows:
iMac G3 600 mHz Graphite
Mac OS X Tiger 10.4.11 or whatever the last update was
1GB RAM
40GB HD
ATi Rage 128 or whatever it is that's in these things
Combo drive
No Airport card
No internal mods
Never been opened since I purchased it in late 2006.
Also, I think this would be the best place to note that there are little red pieces of what appears to be hard plastic. It looks to be about as thick as the casing that goes around the back. I remember it being in the speaker grill when I first got it, but after moving around, it has moved mostly to the bottom, just under the CD-RW/DVD drive. You can clearly see it through the translucent plastics of the iMac's casing. Not sure what the heck it is, how it got there, or if it has any significant importance to the problem at hand, but I figured it would be worth a shot by shouting that out.
OH, one more thing. I noticed, on the last successful boot at my aunt's house, that the sound would not work. I tried moving the slider up to change the volume, and nothing worked. It wouldn't turn the sound on. Very mysterious. Other than that though, it hasn't had any issues that I've seen.
Sorry for the huge post, but I just want to know if it's my stupidity stopping it from booting or if it really did just decide to end its usable life at the precise moment it wasn't absolutely needed anymore. I will check the RAM and post back if that fixes anything, so if there isn't a reply from me saying that I checked RAM and it fixed it, then it's still being a problem and the RAM wasn't the problem.
And if it really did just decide to stop working, does anyone know of anyone that puts Mac Mini's inside iMac G3 cases? It would be pretty freaking awesome if I could take my Mac Mini, put it in there, and possibly get rid of the CRT and replace it with an LCD panel. I've heard that it's been done before, but again, I'm deathly afraid of the stupid things that are CRT screens. Long story short, one imploded about three yards away from me and it scared the living **** out of me. I really wish all CRTs would just STOP working RIGHT NOW so that everyone had to move to LCD screens. It would make my life so much easier. Hey, why not start with my iMac? All right everyone, if you own a CRT monitor or a computer with a CRT monitor built in, make sure it isn't working by Tuesday, okay? *Shudders in fear of an imploding CRT...*Since you removed/re-installed one of the memory DIMMs from the computer, that's the most likely culprit (as the computer worked perfectly earlier). Remove it again and re-install, making sure that it's fully-seated in the slot and that the locking levers snap closed at each end. Try booting the iMac again. If unsuccessful, immediately insert your Tiger installer DVD when you power ON and hold down the C key. If it boots to the Tiger disk, run Disk Utility to scan and repair the hard drive.
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How do I get line-in to a new iMac?
Hi all
So I am new to this forum and have a somewhat convulted and probaly unusual problem. Thanks in advance to anyone who might be able to help.
I have a new iMac and although I quite like it there are a couple of aspects that annoy me:
1. The sound quality is poor. I accept that a machine of these dimensions will struggle, but it is a little too form over function for my tastes.
2. Where is the line in input? Nowhere is the quick answer.
So I have had to spend money to sort this out. For the first problem I have purchased a "BassJump 2" USB subwoofer by Twelve South. It was quite cheap (£40) and improves the iMac sound quality dramatically, looks the part and fits perfectly on the shelf underneath it on my desk. Result.
For the second problem things start to get a bit complicated and this is where I need some advice. To give a little background:
I have a multi-room audio system called "Squeezebox" by Logitech. This is a media server and hardware system which is great and I love, but is also now discontiued. Anyway, the media server software is operated by the iMac and it works a treat. What I want the IMac to do is to also opeate as a "Squeezebox" player. This is possible through either one of two third party apps known as "squeezeplay" and "squeezelite". Unfortunately as free 3rd party apps they do not seem to be totally reliable and amongst other issues, the killer is that both produce a distorted sound through the BassJump sub. Removing the sub fixes this and allows the iMac to play fine, but with it's inherent sonic limitations it is not really worth listening to.
So as a workaround it occurred to me that I could attach a "Squeezebox" hardware device (probably a "Squeezebox Receiver" to the line in of the iMac and it should sound fine. This is when I discovered that there is no line in on the current (2013) model iMac. Also as the Squeezebox receiver can output digitally (via spdif or coaxial), then an input device that will allow a digital signal to feed in to the iMac for the iMac's own DAC to convert and output would be ideal.
So my question is what devices are available which would allow a simple stereo line in to the iMac, such that the iMac can then operate as essentially an amplifier and loudspeaker, when it is driven by an attached line (or digital) input? I have googled extensively and found the Griffin imic and the Behringer UCA202 which might achieve this inexpensively, but I would welcome other suggestions.
I would also like to know how these device affect the normal operation of the iMac audio output. Specifically, would it still output other sounds when, for example, the imic was plugged in but not providing any signal to the iMac? Such that if I played something on youtube, would the iMac output the sound or would the imic being attached (via usb) somehow override this? If I had to access system preferences every time I wanted to listen to something on the web or via line/digital in then I would not be interested!
Hope this makes sense as a question.
thx, Ant8519Hi
thx for your reply. Had a look in midi settings and all seems normal. Had another look at the setup and removed and reinstalled the BassJump software and what do you know, it is distorted full stop. Doesn't matter if the sound comes through itunes, youtube or squeezeplayer. I must not have listened properly when I first installed it (or possibly I had had a few sherbets and didn't really listen to it properly!) Anyway I have had a look on TwelveSouth's website and it appears to be an issue where it is not compatible with the iMac...
So back to square one with the iMac sound problem and no closer getting it running as a squeezeplayer!
I might end up looking to another solution entirely...
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