More RAM or time to buy?

I'm on an early 2009 iMac with 24 inch screen.
Processor  2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory  8 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Software  OS X 10.9.5 (13F34)
I knew I was running into RAM problems, so I upgraded to 8GB but it's clearly not enough. Machine seems to be running okay otherwise. I've used two different cleaning programs and now have to use them all the time. Is it possible to increase the RAM to 16 GB on this computer? Or (sigh) have I reached the end of the line, and it's just time to cough up money for a new model?
Thanks!
Krista

If 8 GBs isn't enough then you may be trying to run too much concurrently. Perhaps you should try running fewer programs. One thing that will help is uninstalling or removing the cleaning software you installed. They aren't required and certainly won't fix the problem.
Things You Can Do To Resolve Slow Downs
If your computer seems to be running slower here are some things you can do:
Start with visits to:     OS X Maintenance - MacAttorney;
                                  The X Lab: The X-FAQs;
                                  The Safe Mac » Mac Performance Guide;
                                  The Safe Mac » The myth of the dirty Mac;
                                  Mac maintenance Quick Assist.
Boot into Safe Mode then repair your hard drive and permissions:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions Pre-Lion
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list.  In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive.  If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
Repair the Hard Drive - Lion/Mountain Lion/Mavericks
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the Utilites Menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD disk icon and click on the arrow button below.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list.  In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive.  If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Restart your computer normally and see if this has helped any. Next do some maintenance:
For situations Disk Utility cannot handle the best third-party utility is Disk Warrior;  DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible.
Note: Alsoft ships DW on a bootable DVD that will startup Macs running Snow Leopard or earlier. It cannot start Macs that came with Lion or later pre-installed, however, DW will work on those models.
Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep.  Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger.  These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or later and should not be installed.
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive.
Under no circumstances should you install so-called maintenance software from MacPaw or ZeoBit (CleanMyMac/CleanMyDrive or Mac Keeper, respectively.) You do not need special software to maintain your computer.
Helpful Links Regarding Malware Protection
If you are having an immediate problem with ads popping up see The Safe Mac » Adware Removal Guide and AdwareMedic.
Open Safari, select Preferences from the Safari menu. Click on Extensions icon in the toolbar. Disable all Extensions. If this stops your problem, then re-enable them one by one until the problem returns. Now remove that extension as it is causing the problem.
The following comes from user stevejobsfan0123. I have made minor changes to adapt to this presentation.
Fix Some Browser Pop-ups That Take Over Safari
Common pop-ups include a message saying the government has seized your computer and you must pay to have it released (often called "Moneypak"), or a phony message saying that your computer has been infected, and you need to call a tech support number (sometimes claiming to be Apple) to get it resolved. First, understand that these pop-ups are not caused by a virus and your computer has not been affected. This "hijack" is limited to your web browser. Also understand that these messages are scams, so do not pay any money, call the listed number, or provide any personal information. This article will outline the solution to dismiss the pop-up.
Quit Safari
Usually, these pop-ups will not go away by either clicking "OK" or "Cancel." Furthermore, several menus in the menu bar may become disabled and show in gray, including the option to quit Safari. You will likely have to force quit Safari. To do this, press Command + option + esc, select Safari, and press Force Quit.
Relaunch Safari
If you relaunch Safari, the page will reopen. To prevent this from happening, hold down the 'Shift' key while opening Safari. This will prevent windows from the last time Safari was running from reopening.
This will not work in all cases. The shift key must be held at the right time, and in some cases, even if done correctly, the window reappears. In these circumstances, after force quitting Safari, turn off Wi-Fi or disconnect Ethernet, depending on how you connect to the Internet. Then relaunch Safari normally. It will try to reload the malicious webpage, but without a connection, it won't be able to. Navigate away from that page by entering a different URL, i.e. www.apple.com, and trying to load it. Now you can reconnect to the Internet, and the page you entered will appear rather than the malicious one.
An excellent link to read is Tom Reed's Mac Malware Guide.
Also, visit The XLab FAQs and read Detecting and avoiding malware and spyware.
See these Apple articles:
  Mac OS X Snow Leopard and malware detection
  OS X Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
  OS X Mountain Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
  OS X Mavericks- Protect your Mac from malware
  About file quarantine in OS X
If you require anti-virus protection Thomas Reed recommends using ClamXAV. (Thank you to Thomas Reed for this recommendation.)
From user Joe Bailey comes this equally useful advice:
The facts are:
1. There is no anti-malware software that can detect 100% of the malware out there.
2. There is no anti-malware that can detect everything targeting the Mac.
3. The very best way to prevent the most attacks is for you as the user to be aware that
     the most successful malware attacks rely on very sophisticated social engineering
     techniques preying on human avarice, ****, and fear.
4. Internet popups saying the FBI, NSA, Microsoft, your ISP has detected malware on
    your computer is intended to entice you to install their malware thinking it is a
    protection against malware.
5. Some of the anti-malware products on the market are worse than the malware
    from which they purport to protect you.
6. Be cautious where you go on the internet.
7. Only download anything from sites you know are safe.
8. Avoid links you receive in email, always be suspicious even if you get something
    you think is from a friend, but you were not expecting.
9. If there is any question in your mind, then assume it is malware.
Troubleshooting Applications
I recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX, Mavericks Cache Cleaner, or Cocktail that you can use for removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc. Corrupted cache, log, or temporary files can cause application or OS X crashes as well as kernel panics.
If you have Snow Leopard or Leopard, then for similar repairs install the freeware utility Applejack.  If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line.  Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. Applejack does not work with Lion and later.
Basic Backup
For some people Time Machine will be more than adequate. Time Machine is part of OS X. There are two components:
1. A Time Machine preferences panel as part of System Preferences;
2. A Time Machine application located in the Applications folder. It is
    used to manage backups and to restore backups. Time Machine
    requires a backup drive that is at least twice the capacity of the
    drive being backed up.
Alternatively, get an external drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
  1. Carbon Copy Cloner
  2. Get Backup
  3. Deja Vu
  4. SuperDuper!
  5. Synk Pro
  6. Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on backup and restore.  Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files. For help with using Time Machine visit Pondini's Time Machine FAQ for help with all things Time Machine.
Referenced software can be found at MacUpdate.
Additional Hints
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
Add more RAM. If your computer has less than 2 GBs of RAM and you are using OS X Leopard or later, then you can do with more RAM. Snow Leopard and Lion work much better with 4 GBs of RAM than their system minimums. The more concurrent applications you tend to use the more RAM you should have.
Always maintain at least 15 GBs or 10% of your hard drive's capacity as free space, whichever is greater. OS X is frequently accessing your hard drive, so providing adequate free space will keep things from slowing down.
Check for applications that may be hogging the CPU:
Pre-Mavericks
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder.  Select All Processes from the Processes dropdown menu.  Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order.  If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time (>=70,) then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar.  Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process.  See if that helps.  Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Mavericks and later
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder.  Select All Processes from the View menu.  Click on the CPU tab in the toolbar. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order.  If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time (>=70,) then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar.  Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process.  See if that helps.  Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Often this problem occurs because of a corrupted cache or preferences file or an attempt to write to a corrupted log file.

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    Should I buy the AppleCare now, later, or not at all? I want to make sure it's covered in the event of damage or defects:
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    ChungLing wrote:
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    Mike

  • IMac 2012 (December) more RAM or faster processor?

    I will buy a 21.5 iMac.  Basic user: web, MS Office documents, some photo editing, burn DVDs.  Maybe light video.  I tend to keep my computers a long time (current Mac is the half dome from about 8 years ago).
    Question: for the most bang for the buck, and long term use, is it worth adding more RAM (8 to 16) or upgrading the processor (2.7 to 2.9)?
    Or just keep the basic model?
    Unlike previous questions like this, the 21.5 Macs don't let you add RAM later.   I get conflicting opinions from Mac store.

    IMHO if you intend to keep the machine a long time in order to get the best performance and most futureability I'd recommend getting the i7 21.5" with 16GB and get the 1TB Fusion drive. The 2012 21.5" iMacs are not designed to be user upgradeable for anything however OWC (www.macsales.com) sells a RAM upgrade kit. It takes skill to do the upgrade and will probably invalidate the warranty but it's possible.
    IMHO I'd buy the upgrades from Apple at the point of order. You can purchase the above (i7, 16GB, Fusion drive)  configuration from Apple's online store, I doubt the brick and mortar store would carry it.

  • 2009 MACBOOK NEEDS MORE RAM

    Ive got 2009 Macbook, I need to buy more ram if i go into genius can a get a high one installed and will it cost alot?

    First we need to know your model number. There were three 2009 MacBook models and each one uses different RAM. To see which model you have go to the Apple in the upper left corner and select About This Mac, then click on More Info. When System Profiler comes up check the Model Identifier.
    5,2 (Early 2009, 2.0GHz Model Only) can use 6gb of 667mhz PC2-5300 RAM
    5,2 (Mid 2009, 2.13GHz Model Only) can use 6gb of 800mhz PC2-6400 RAM
    6,1 (Late 2009, White Unibody) can use 8gb of 1066mhz PC3-8500 RAM
    It would be better if you replace the RAM yourself. Apple will charge you three times the cost of doing it yourself.
    OWC charges $32 for a 2gb stick, Apple charges $100 for the same stick.

  • Opinion - MacBook Pro  -is now the time to buy?

    I am looking to replace a 2006 MacBook Core Duo 2 Ghz wi 2 GB RAM and a 500 GB drive with either a 15 or 17 MB Pro with Matte screen (4 GB and 500 GB drive). They have the high end 15 and 17 in stock with matte screens at my local Apple Store.
    Is now the time to buy?
    Three things give me pause so I am looking for some advice.
    1. Hard drive related beach balls - especially on 7200 rpm drives.
    2. Is the 15 or 17 any more or less prone to these troubles? Is the 5400 rpm 500 GB drive a surer bet?
    3. Potential speed bumps to coincide with new cheaper MacBook releases.
    Those who have bought recently - is the hard drive beach ball, 30 - 40 second hang issue resolved?
    Just generally, would you wait to see if there are any changes to the MacBook Pro specs (a la speed bump) with the impending Mini, iMac, MacBook announcements?
    Message was edited by: Joseph Nowak
    Message was edited by: Joseph Nowak

    For the 15" the time to buy, for me, was before they jettisoned the express card slot My ideal would be a 13" with an express card and the dual graphics chips - oh well I'm not holding my breath for that one. I'm glad I got my 15" while they were still offering express card although I might have been willing to trade that for the smaller footprint of the 13" if it would have been available at the time. I love my 15", but it is big (esp. coming from a 12" PB G4).
    As for beach ball speed issues - I think all the shipping MacBook Pro's (at least the 15" and 17") can take 8 gigs of RAM - I would get the base memory from Apple and then upgrade after the fact. I bumped my late 2008 MBP (typing on it now) to it's max of six Gigs RAM and it made a noticeable difference.
    And as far as performance, even 7200 rpm notebook drives are slugs compared to their desktop cousins; and compared to the speed increases in every other component in personal computers, mechanical hard drives are glacially slow slugs.
    If you really want maximum performance, you need to do what I am getting ready to. Skip the 7200 RPM drive and replace your primary drive with a solid state drive (but do your research - not all SSD's are created equal and some may be slower then a traditional hard drive!). Since I'm not about to pay more for an SSD then the purchase price of my computer, I'm going to get a smaller one (corsair makes a 160GB that looks nice), and remove my optical drive (hardly every use it anyway). In the optical drives place I will put a 500GB drive with one of several kits out there that provide a mounting bracket for the second drive. Best of all worlds - OS and applications on the ultra fast SSD, bulk of my data on the more spacious traditional drive.
    CPU and Video are pretty darn fast across the board, even with the base configurations. These days the hard drive is THE speed bottle neck in computers...
    Message was edited by: Eric Eskam

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