MOVED: How to set AGP so my MSI 6600GT (AGP) is stable?

This topic has been moved to Overclocking and Modding Corner Forum.
How to set AGP so my MSI 6600GT (AGP) is stable?

Quote from: jlpicard1412 on 27-February-05, 07:08:30
OK, that's the question .... how do I make my system stable if I overclock the CPU and want the graphics card stable too ... boils down to the AGP clock ... what do I need to do ... motherboard is K8T800 Neo 2 .... what about Cell Menu settings?
Tried using 3dmark2001 and 03 ... neither worked.
I thought standard AGP was 66MHz .....
JLP
Yes standard is 66MHz.
I did a little bit of research on your motherboard as far as I know it has AGP spped lock. Which means no matter how you set the speed of your CPU, the AGP should always stay at 66Mhz. There might be a manual override in the bios to raise it higher then 66, but you don't really gain anything raising it higher then 66Mhz.
I also read your motherboard might have problems keeping it locked at 66Mhz. So you might want to check to see if they have released any bios updates.
Most nVidia cards will work fine with higher then 66 so your problems might be something else. I'm not saying to set it higher I'm just saying they usually don't have problems running on a faster AGP bus.

Similar Messages

How to set AGP so my MSI 6600GT (AGP) is stable?

OK, that's the question .... how do I make my system stable if I overclock the CPU and want the graphics card stable too ... boils down to the AGP clock ... what do I need to do ... motherboard is K8T800 Neo 2 .... what about Cell Menu settings?
Tried using 3dmark2001 and 03 ... neither worked.
I thought standard AGP was 66MHz .....
JLP

Quote from: jlpicard1412 on 27-February-05, 07:08:30
OK, that's the question .... how do I make my system stable if I overclock the CPU and want the graphics card stable too ... boils down to the AGP clock ... what do I need to do ... motherboard is K8T800 Neo 2 .... what about Cell Menu settings?
Tried using 3dmark2001 and 03 ... neither worked.
I thought standard AGP was 66MHz .....
JLP
Yes standard is 66MHz.
I did a little bit of research on your motherboard as far as I know it has AGP spped lock. Which means no matter how you set the speed of your CPU, the AGP should always stay at 66Mhz. There might be a manual override in the bios to raise it higher then 66, but you don't really gain anything raising it higher then 66Mhz.
I also read your motherboard might have problems keeping it locked at 66Mhz. So you might want to check to see if they have released any bios updates.
Most nVidia cards will work fine with higher then 66 so your problems might be something else. I'm not saying to set it higher I'm just saying they usually don't have problems running on a faster AGP bus.

How to set 1600 timmings on MSI 790FX-GD70

This is how and these are the settings that I use to achieve stable 1600 timings on my OZC Black Edition Ram using the MSI 790FX-GD70 board.
OCZ AMD Black Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) OCZ3BE1600C8LV4GK timmings CL 8 8-8-8-24 1.65volts
Restart computer, Boot into BIOS by pressing "delete" until you see the screen say it is going into the bios. When changing settings in bios use the plus and minus key to make changes.
Select Cell Menu, this is the memory menu where you will adjust most of the timings for your memory
Go into Advanced Dram
Set the following timings settings for your RAM When selecting both you have to scroll down the page and set the same timings for the other dimm. So you are setting one set for one RAM and one for the other.
In the picture I have it set for 2T but I use 1T, 1T is faster but I am showing you the default spec settings of the ram, once complete hit esc and back to the cell menu
continued

I would like to point out that I have my CPU overclocked so that is why I have turned the cool n quiet off. You will also note that some of my numbers are not set at 2400 and that they are a little bit above what I have wrote. This is caused by me trying to get a little more out of my CPU overclock. These settings and multipliers interact with each other so if I set a multiplier at 12 and it shows 2400 but then go and set the FSB frequency a little higher the timing will reflect in the HT link. One note, you can not have your CPU-NB Freq lower then your HT Freq. Just wanted to explain that so you know why my numbers are not exact or a little different from the settings I am showing
Do not replicate my settings for the CPU as they are all different for all systems. I am only showing you the memory settings that you can set from the OCZ 1600 settings that they recommend.
Press escape and hit F10 to save your settings and the computer should post with the timings that we set.
Once you are stable you can then go in and try different settings of your own. Most people will try tighter timings which could relate to 7-8-8-8 or 7-7-8-8 etc. You can experiment once you are stable with the stock 1600 settings.
Your bios should have a User settings section and you can save your settings in their so if you are experimenting and you have to re-boot you can easily load the saved settings that we have done here!
If you mess things us and have to reset the cmos you unplug the maching, wait at least 1 minute and then press the cmos button. Plug machine back in turn power supply back on and the computer will tell you it has an error and to press F1. Press F1 and set the clock, then go into user settings and load the settings that we did here. If at anytime you want the original settings go into bios and select optimised settings and it will load the best settings that it uses to operate. Note that your overclocks and your ram will go back to default settings and any bios settings that you did manually will be gone until you reload them in user settings. If you update your boos, user settings are lost and you would manually have to set the timings again like we did here.
Many ways to go about this and this is the way that I use. I am not saying it is the only way or the best but it does work. I am using stock volts on the CPU and recommended volts for the memory and to raise the NB Freq. Constructive comments are very welcome.

Is there a definitive word on how high/low to set agp aperture, et al?

Seemingly, the most elusive part of the bios settings is the agp-related settings (agp aperture, fast-write, etc.). I say this, because all I ever find on posts is 'this is what I do', or 'well, this is my rule-of-thumb...'. Is there no definitive logic for how to set these? I realize, like some people say, you can futz with the settings, run a benchmark, rinse, repeat, until you get your best benchmark setting, but this seems a bit too 'random' for my taste. I'd actually like to understand what I'm doing, why I'm doing it, and be able to see the benchmark to prove it right or wrong.
Does anyone have a good, definitive understanding of these features to be able to offer a reasonable justification for setting them one way or the other? So far, in my limited understanding, I tend to think I should set my agp aperture to as low a setting as possible, for example, as my video card has 256mb onboard, which exceeds the requirements of the games I play in-and-of-itself. Thus, why would I want to tie up system ram when video card ought to have more than enough already? Maybe this sounds stupid, but that's why I'm asking

256Mb should be more than enough to run todays games at HI settings. From what I understand it only addresses out memory tasks when onboard memory has exceeded its amount. Running down the AGP bus to RAM would be slower than onboard because of the interface (GFX-upto 256Bit DDR3 etc). If the app can run happy with onboard RAM, the amount set for "aperture" is used for system use and is not set a side until the apps needs more than GFX can offer addressed onboard. It does need an amount set even if its the smallest amount. I thinks
Also please read below pages:
http://www.tweak3d.net/articles/aperture-size/
http://www.cybercpu.net/howto/basic/AGP_aperture/index.asp
http://www.anandtech.com/news/shownews.aspx?i=17139

How to set the column table so it can not be moved !

how to set the column table so it can not be moved !

m_table.getTableHeader().setReorderingAllowed(false);
m_table.getTableHeader().setResizingAllowed(false);

I moved to new house where I have wifi base station I made extension via TP-link power line adapter and connect my Airport utility 6.3.2, but I don't now how to set up as a second network with one IP address?Could you help me please?

I moved to new house where I have wifi base station I made extension via TP-link power line adapter and connect my Airport utility 6.3.2, but I don't now how to set up as a second network with one IP address?Could you help me please?

Urvergessen wrote:
+You may have already done this, but do you have the first AirPort Express configured to "Allow this network to be extended"?+
Could not find that setting anywhere.
It's in AirPort Utility, AirPort panel, Wireless tab.
When I'm within the range of the base station I connect normally, but further away the connection drops despite the fact that the other Airport is very close and light is green. Interestingly, my PB Pro has signal almost everywhere in the house, but my iPhone and Mac Mini don't. Most likely just a hardware difference?
In AirPort Utility with the second Express, in the AirPort panel, Wireless tab, have you checked "Allow wireless clients"?
The second AP does show an IP address: 10.0.1.3.
With a "Configure IPv4" setting of "Using DHCP", that suggests that the second Express really is connecting to the first Express. In that case I have no other explanation of your your problem.

[Q]How to setting Disable-Enable Virtualization on MSI NB GE620

[Q]How to setting Disable-Enable Virtualization on MSI NB GE620 AMI BIOS Version E16G5IMS V.10A
I test from securable program, Display this below.
But I used insatall MAC OSX in VMWare Workstation or Virtual Box , I can't install it. Display message popup for enable VT on BIOS.
I'm try to looking in BIOS . I can't find it for setting enable or disable. Because I has ever see other products can changeable. Please answer this question. Because it important for me. Thank you for the future.

I do not work for MSI and this is private service, if you look for official stuffs go to: http://msi.com
Quote from: iti11 on 28-April-11, 23:40:06
You can send this answer for me in email or not?
i will make a custom bios for you and will email to you,
to able to turn on and off the requested feature

MOVED: how to install RHEL 5.1 on a new build with MSI K9A2 Platinum motherboard

This topic has been moved to Linux/Unix.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=117273.0

This topic has been moved to Linux/Unix.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=117273.0

I modded my MSI 6600GT AGP

I took my MSI 6600GT AGP all apart to mod it. I thought I would share what I found out in case anything wants to mod theirs also.
I didn't want to flash the bios for the temperature, so I attached this probe to the GPU.
http://www.bestbyteinc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SEN-CNU-001
The bridge chip uses a thin foil thermal pad, which I replaced with Artic Silver Ceramique. The GPU heatsink uses what I think is a thick thermal compound, it didin't come off like a pad. It might also have some silver content because of it's grayish color. There are four approx. 1/16" white thermal pads for the memory.
I don't think both of the heatsinks are copper. Because when I removed the heatsink I could see in the threads of where the support arms get screwed into and it wasn't the same color as copper. I think they are copper colored anodized aluminum or maybe even copper covered aluminum if that is even possible. My best guess is they are not copper. The color is slightly wrong to be true copper.
To take the main heatsink off.
You need to press down slightly on one side of the back support bar and swing if off of the post. If you look at the support bar both ends are different. One side has little metal nubs that need to clear the post to swing it off. The other end is shaped like a C and just rides on the groove in the other post.
After you take off that bar, there is another flat bar that has a pad in the middle to protect the components. That bar just lifts straight up and off the posts. Remember which way you took it off, it is very important. The components make litte dents in the pad. So putting it back on the exact same way fits the components in the same dents they made when the bar was first installed.
Once you have both support bars removed, you need a flat screwdriver to unscrew both posts from the heatsink. At this point I don't believe the heatink is attached anymore to the board even with the posts still attached. Once you take off the posts flip the card over holding the heatsink as you do so. I gently twisted the heatsink and it came right off. You need to unplug the fan at this point.
I took four copper slugs around the size of a penny, and thinned them down to get the right height of the pads. The pads were removed to be replaced by the copper slugs. It took a very long time to do this. I would take one and rest it on the memory. Then I would use a small straight edge ruler to test the height with the GPU. The copper slugs have to be at the same exact height or slightly lower then the GPU or the heatsink will not make proper contact with the GPU.
What I found by doing this is, without having the support bar on the video card the GPU is not on a flat plane to the memory chips. So thinning the slugs down the right height was hard to do because of this.
Once I got the slugs down to the right height I used Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to glue each one to the memory. After that I used the Artic Silver Ceramique on the GPU and on the copper slugs. Then I attached the thermal probe with a little dab of Artic Silver Ceramique on the tip to contact the side of the GPU. I used double sided thermal tape to stick the probe to the board and to the area on the side of the GPU.
I then re-attached the heatsink in the reverse order I removed it. I checked under the heatsink with a light and everything looked like it was making good contact.
My idle temp with the probe is around 34C, stressing the card with benchmarks the highest I have seen it is around 55C.
The copper slugs didn't really gain me all that much overclocking the memory, but that could just be the memory has reached its limits. The copper slugs will probably help the memory last a little longer then the pads. I wouldn't suggest using the slugs to anyone. It is just too much work, a lot of risk and doesn't really gain you anything.

Quote from: akeer on 16-February-05, 18:17:49
fw off, agp set to 4x.... many times tried this with various drivers (also setting the 2d and 3d speed to the same and many other trix...)
also tried to unplug devices... no help.... as I said if I help the cooling with really biiiiiiig fan underneath the card, it will not freeze... but 12cm fan at full speed generates looooooots of noise ))
it seems that aftermarket cooling (e.g. Zalman vf700cu) is the only solution
thanx and have a nice day
Here is something I just thought of. There are a lot of components on the board. There might a possibility one of them is not working very well when it heats up.
The GPU could also be overheating, but you have to understand something here.
The 6600GT has automatic core slowdown if it gets too hot so how could you have damaaged it? If you didn't put on enough thermal compound or the heatsink wasn't tight enough the core would slowdown to protect itself from heat damage.
If it was damaged by heat going by everything I know so far, it would probably only be damaged in the first few seconds right after you turn the computer on, but even then that would probably only happen if there was no heatsink attached at all.
Another thing to consider. I have an idle temperature of around 34C using the probe, the internal temperature would be slightly higher so lets say it's around 40C. The highest load temperature I have seen has been around 55C with the probe, so lets say inside its around 60C inside.
Those temperatures using the stock heatsink are very good. So what I am saying is even if you get a new heatsink, it might lower the temperature a bit on the card...but I doubt it will help with any heat related problems your describing.
If that stock "heatsink is on correctly" it should be more then enough to keep the card cool.
Maybe you should take the chance and flash the bios so you can see the actual internal temperature of the card. At this point it really doesn't matter because you can't return it anyway, but there is always a slight risk flashing a bios.
There is a forum here that will explain flashing the bios if you decide to do it.
http://www.mvktech.net

MOVED: Need help with ATI R9600PRO in MSI KT3 Ultra2

This topic has been moved to Retired motherboards.
Need help with ATI R9600PRO in MSI KT3 Ultra2

Quote from: chiochio on 21-November-05, 20:20:31
When I plugged in ATI R9600 Pro, My monitor was blank. PSU? sorry newbie .
Power Supply details..
try set AGP Vcore to 1.6

How we set up multiple websites on OSX Server

BACKGROUND
After fiddling and futzing around for weeks (actually since last year) I've finally figured out how to set up multiple websites (virtual sites) using one port and one IP address. While there seems to be lots of discussion on this topic, it seems that the basic assumption is that one knows everything about websites, DNS and all that stuff, which I do not.
When our network was originally established the engineer set up a wiki and also configured webmail, so we had two sites, one secured for mail and the other open for Calendar and the wiki. We were not hosting any websites locally because our school website is hosted by a company in New England.
This year I wanted to set up websites for teachers and students. As great as the wiki is, there are some things it just can't do as well as a website. So I figured if I set up the sites teachers could link back and forth from one to the other. In addition kids could now start to use a real website instead of the cobbled together file mess I had when we ran a Windows network. Also iWeb is a much more accessible tool than FrontPage.
SERVER SIDE:
Snow Leopard Server - 10.6.4
There are two - actually three pieces if you want your iWeb clients to connect to the server: Server Side Web Services, DNS and, in my case, FTP.
================================================ SERVER SIDE - WEB SERVICES
If you haven't turned on Web services, you'll need to open Server Admin and do that. If you don't know how to set up web services - just reply and I'll step you through that as well.
Once web services are set up and turned on, you'll see it listed under your server’s name in the Server Admin sidebar. Click on "Web" and then click on the "Sites" tab at the top of page. This is where you list all your sites.
Click the plus button and enter the fully qualified name of your site, for example: "students.myschool.org". Don't use the defaults here (no name) - that's what got me in trouble before. BE SPECIFIC!
You'll be looking at the "General" tab (the other tabs, "Options", "Realms", etc. we'll deal with in a second).
On the "General Tab", the default IP address ("any") and port (80) is just fine. We'll run everything over port 80. (Apache figures all the virtual site stuff out - you don't need your rocket science degree for that.)
"Web Folder:" is important because this is how you'll "segment" your websites. While I would NEVER do this again, we have a solid state hard drive for the OS and a RAID array for our data files. IF you have that, make sure you do NOT use the default "Web Folder" because it will store all your files on your solid state drive. There may not be enough room, over time, on that drive. I've not experienced it yet, but it's my understanding that if the drive fills up, the server shuts down.
I store my web sites on a folder on the RAID array.
Everything else on that tab can be left as the default. (Just make sure that you have an "index.html" or "index.php" file in your web folder root, but iWeb will take care of that for you.)
I would put in your email address in the "Administrator Email:" field.
Under "Options" you really don't have to put anything. I've tested making websites with iWeb and it doesn't appear that anything needs to be checked.
Nothing needs to be entered in "Realms" as well from what I see working w/ iWeb.
The defaults in "Logging" are fine.
You can leave "Security" alone, but we do have a (self-issued) certificate listed for our webmail site.
"Aliases" is important. Under "Web Server Aliases" you enter how you want the site to respond to when users type in a URL in their web browsers.
When our web server was initially set up the engineer set up "wiki.myschool.org" on port 80 and "mail.myschool.org" on port 443. In the aliases section was nothing but a "*" (the wildcard character). That means, from what I can figure out, that the webserver will respond to these sites regardless of what is typed in the URL. (Well, something like that - point is, if you create OTHER websites, you'll NEVER get to them because the wildcard character in the "Aliases" section, in effect, grabs those web requests and redirects them to the sites that are already there.
In my case I deleted both of those wild card characters. For my "wiki.myschool.org" site, I entered "mail.myschool.org". That means if you type EITHER "wiki." or "mail.", go to the site that’s stored in the “Web Folder” we set up when those sites were created.
For "mail.myschool.org" I just DELETED the wildcard character. I wanted that site (since it was secured) only to respond to "mail." - nothing else. (You're not going to that secured site for any other reason than to get your mail.)
"Proxy" can be left blank. Have no idea what that does. As time permits I'll do some research and figure out what it's used for.
"Web Services" is if you want to provide any MORE services to this particular site. Most likely you'll want to uncheck all the boxes. For our "wiki." site, we have checked "Wikis", "Blogs", and "Calendar". For our "mail." site we have those checked PLUS "Mail".
I would create a separate "Web Folder" for each of your sites. I don't know if that's a requirement but for housekeeping purposes, I would keep the sites separated. And I SUSPECT that it's "best practice" to separate your wiki from your other websites.
SERVER SIDE - DNS
OK...now you have to make your site reachable and the only way to do that is to set up DNS so that folks don't need to type in the IP address of your web server. You need to set up DNS inside your network and, if you want folks in the outside world to reach your website, you'll need to set up an external DNS as well. I'm going to cover INTERNAL DNS - if you don't know how to set up EXTERNAL DNS - reply or email me and I'll post those instructions.
Most likely you have already created Zones for you network...all you really need to do is create "Aliases" so that when you type "students.myschool.org" your web browser will know that site resides on IP address XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX.
If you've set up Zones then you already have a "Machine" setting that translates your server’s name to an IP address and vice versa.
All you need to do is create an "Alias" (CNAME) record for, in this case, "students". You’ll see the choices for types of records when you click the "Add Record" button.
There are only two fields to configure for a record: "Alias Name" - in this case "students" and "Destination" - in this case "servername.myschool.org". (You've already entered a machine record that says "servername" = 192.168.1.x.)
That's it for Internal DNS.
SERVER SIDE - FTP
Now you have to get iWeb to communicate with the webserver.
There are only three ways iWeb will communicate with webservers: MobileMe, Local Folder and FTP Server.
Local Folder is really only practical if you want to host a website on a laptop (I was blown away initially when I found out that all Macs had a built-in web server - how neat is that?). I think there are some very cool things teachers could do with configuration, and, of course, you wouldn't need to set up any web services on the web server, but that's for another discussion. You need to set up FTP services on the web server.
Turn on and enable FTP on your webserver.
You can leave the defaults for "General", "Messages" and "Logging". "Advanced" is the only thing you want to set. I set "Authenticated Users See:" to "Home Folder Only". I set the "FTP Root" to the same root folder in which I plan to store my web sites (/VOLUMES/RAID Array/WebServer/Documents). This setting sets that folder only to be accessible via FTP.
I would suggest returning to your DNS settings and adding one more "Alias". Set "ftp." to point to your webserver. Why? So folks can edit their sites from home (see below).
CAVEAT: If you are running FTP on other servers, make sure that the settings here do not conflict with the settings on the other servers. For example, I'm running FTP on my file server so that my scanners can communicate with it. However, I configure my FTP settings by machine name and NOT "ftp.myschool.org".
================================================
CLIENT SIDE - CONFIGURING iWEB
Now you have to configure iWeb so that it will communicate with your server.
Click on the "Site" icon so that "Site Publishing Settings" appears.
Publishing:
"Publish to:" = "FTP Server"
You can set the "Site name:" and "Contact email:" to whatever you want. But see below!
FTP Server Settings:
"Server address"=ftp.myschool.org (you could also enter in servername.myschool.org or the IP address. However, if you want folks to be able to work on the site from home, you will need to configure external DNS for that. If you use the IP address, you're out of luck for remote access to the site. (You can do it but it's beyond the scope of this discussion.)
"Username" & "Password" should be your user's network login credentials.
"Directory/Path" - this is important. Remember, you set your "FTP Root" to be "/VOLUMES/RAID Array/WebServer/Documents". If you leave this field blank then the website will be dumped into this folder. If you are only setting up one site, that may be OK. However I wanted to set up a "students" site folder, a "faculty" site folder and a separate site for our literary magazine.
THEREFORE: I have, in my ..../Documents folder (on the server), a "students" folder, a "faculty" folder, and a "litmag" folder.
SO...in my "Directory/Path:" field, I have "/faculty". That means the full path to this website is "ftp root/faculty" or "/VOLUMES/RAID Array/WebServer/Documents/faculty" (You don't need a trailing "/" character. iWeb will automatically append the folder for you user depending on what you entered in "Site Name:" in the "Publishing" area.
Website URL:
This is the root website depending on whether it is "students" or "faculty". Since iWeb will append the site name to this root website, I accomplished what I hoped to accomplish in this post (http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=12288561#12288561).
Faculty sites will be @ http://faculty.myschool.org/username. Students @ http://students.myschool.org/username. PERFECT!
iWeb is such a GREAT tool - NOW the kids can start using it!
I want to reiterate that this works for our school but it should work for you as well. There may be better ways to do this but it works for us.
Hope this has been helpful and you won't have to spend weeks trying to figure this all out by yourself!

OK...here's how we did it.
To get access to the website you created from outside your network there are a couple of steps.
First, you have to have a STATIC IP address from your ISP. If you have a T1 circuit, no problem...you usually get a couple of static IPs you can use. However, if you have a cable modem circuit, most likely you have a dynamic IP address which changes when you connect to the internet. Usually a static IP will cost a bit more because the ISP has to go through a couple of steps to set it up for you. But once you have the address, you now have a way for folks outside your network to connect with you.
(I’m also assuming that you use a router of some sort through which traffic flows out to the internet and that you aren’t using connection sharing or something like that.)
The next thing you need to do is have your new static IP address associated with the server on which you are hosting your website. You've probably already done that if your website works inside your network. However, you've associated a private ip (192.168.x.x, etc.) to your web server. That doesn't mean anything to folks on the outside because private IP addresses are just that - private - folks can't access them. (I won't get into VPN because that's a whole other topic.)
The way you associate your new static IP address to your web server is through some sort of dns application from your ISP. For example, we use TierraNet to manage our external DNS information. They have a web interface control panel that is very similar to the DNS interface for XServer. You can create CNAME records (aliases - other ways that folks can access your servers).
Basically you create an "A" (CNAME) record with a fully qualified domain name (e.g. webserver.myschool.org) and point it to your public IP address (XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX) which you just got from your ISP. It's going to take a while (24-48 hours) for this change to take effect. BTW, you can create as many “A” records as you want. For example mail.myschool.com and wiki.myschool.com could point to the same place.
You want to make sure that the fully qualified domain name you enter in the external dns utility matches the name you used when you created your internal dns records on your XServer.
OK...so now folks can get to your domain - but, remember, you have a private network IP scheme between them and you. You now have to tell your router that when web traffic arrives, allow it inside the network and direct it to your web server.
Let's say your public IP address is 205.100.112.50 and your web server is 192.168.0.5.
You have to create, in your router’s "Security Zone" (router companies call them different things) a couple of rules. Usually the first rule is: "Let everything inside the network get out to the web." You've probably already done that if folks inside the network can reach the internet.
You then have to tell the router to allow web traffic (port 80) into your network AND redirect that traffic to 192.168.0.5.
We use AdTran routers and they have a web interface which allows you to write "rules" affecting public and private traffic. Public is folks outside the network, private is folks inside.
AdTran calls them "Security Zones" and you modify those zones with policies.
So my "Policy" would say, in the above example, redirect traffic from my public IP (205.100.112.50) -> to my web server -> (192.168.0.5).
THEN you have to modify this policy with what AdTran calls "Traffic Selectors". You've said, OK, you can get in, but WHAT can get in?
The "Traffic Selector" is written to say: "Permit" "TCP" traffic from 205.100.112.50 only through Port 80. (That's the port that web traffic goes over. If you wanted a secure website, you'd add another traffic selector that opens port 443, for example.)
I'll tell you I'm no genius when it comes to this. I called AdTran and had them configure my router for me. I told them what I wanted done, they remoted into the router and configured it. But then I could go to the web interface and see what they did and then added rules later on when I wanted, for example, to get access to the network via Apple Remote Desktop or VPN into the network on my iPad.
I'd bet that your router has a maintenance agreement that includes this service and if it doesn't it should have.
I did find that I still had issues when I tried to set this up originally and it had to do with the ORDER of the policies. I can’t remember exactly what the issue was, but, effectively one of the policies highjacked traffic before the policy that I wanted got triggered. Simply moving them around in the list fixed that issue. So if you have this set up but still can’t access the site, check the order of your rules.
I don’t know if that helps or not, but I try to think about this stuff conceptually and then get someone to help me with the details. I work with this stuff so infrequently that I forgot how I did something 6 months or a year ago. I’m in the process of creating a wiki for the school which documents all this stuff, but that’s a major undertaking.
Cheers,
John

How to set up user account and share folders

We are a family of four sharing our first iMac. I would like to set up one account for my wife and I and one account for my kids on which I plan to enable Parental Controls.
I have struggled with setting up my kids user account. After setting up a Standard account for the kids - I noticed none of our music or files were visible in the kids accounts. I spent 20 min on the phone with Apple and the tech was clueless. He had me copying my music folder all over the computer until I had about 6 copies of the same folder. I did figure out how to move the music library to SHARED folder and redirect iTunes source folder to the same shared folder.
My problem now - when I copy my documents to the SHARED folder my kids can see the files and open them, but they can not save them. How do I give the kids account read write privileges?
Should I set up a GROUP account instead?
I need the best way to have two or three users who can access all data on the same iMac, while giving me the ability to enable Parental Controls on the accounts.

Do this:
Here's how to set it up by using ACLs:
1. Create a new folder in /Users/Shared. Call it "Sharefolder".
2. Log in to an Admin account, open Terminal and paste in all of this at the same time:
chmod -R +a "everyone allow delete,chown,list,search,add_file,\
addsubdirectory,delete_child,file_inherit,directoryinherit" \
/Users/Shared/Sharefolder
That will automatically make everything copied or created to the sharefolder writable by all users. Note: After setting this up, if you have existing files that you want to move to the sharefolder, hold down the option key when dragging them in. That will make new copies of them in the sharefolder. Dragging existing files in (i.e. simply moving them there) won't cause the ACL to inherit properly and they won't be writable by all users. Files that are copied or +newly created+ in the sharefolder shouldn't have this problem.
Make sure you keep good backups. One user accidentally deleting a shared file will affect everybody else who uses it.

How to set up a great Photoshop machine

How to set up a great Photoshop machine
From the blog of John Nack, [former?*] Photoshop Principal Program Manager
At Photoshop World this week, performance testing lead Adam Jerugim
presented a performance guide with hardware recommendations and
information about the CS5 performance preferences. I’ve put his notes
in this post’s extended entry.
http://blogs.adobe.com/jnack/2010/09/how-to-set-up-a-great-photoshop-machine.html#more-271 2
Operating Systems: Mac OS 10.6.4 and Windows 7 64-bit
CPU: Intel Core i7/Xeon or AMD Phenom II/Opteron with 4 cores. More than 4 cores gives diminishing returns.
RAM: Enough to keep Efficiency readout at 100%. If Efficiency is low (<95%), adding RAM will provide biggest benefit. 4GB will cover most digital photography uses. 8GB leaves room for other apps and fits huge documents in RAM.
Video Card: Any modern card with at least 512MB VRAM; 1GB if doing heavy 3D work.
Disk: Use a separate disk for Photoshop scratch. If you spend a lot of time opening / saving large data files, another separate disk for data files will speed that up. Faster disks are better. RAID0 is faster. SSD is faster yet. RAID0 of SSDs is fastest but super expensive. If you have plenty of RAM (meaning your Efficiency readout is 95% or more), separate/faster disks for scratch provide minimal benefit. If Efficiency readout is low, a separate SSD for Photoshop scratch will be a big win. SSD boot volume will speed booting and app launch, but not Photoshop operations.
Memory Usage: this should be no higher than 70% on systems running 32bit Photoshop or with less than 4GB of total physical RAM. On systems with 8GB or more, use 70% if you plan on running other applications at the same time as PS, or higher (up to 90%) if you only plan on using PS on your system.
Efficiency %: can be found in the document window drop-down options. Operations fit in RAM when this 95% or greater.
History & Cache: if you work with small documents with lots of layers, start with the Tall and Thin button (which will set cache levels = 2, tile size = 128K/132K). If you work with large documents with few layers, try the Big and Flat button (which will set cache levels = 6, tile size = 1024K/1028K). Using more history states uses more scratch disk space. More history states may also use more RAM, particularly when running actions or scripts on large documents. If you see Efficiency drop below 95%, especially after running actions, try reducing history states or adding RAM.
Scratch Disks: a separate drive for Photoshop scratch disk will avoid slowdowns from Photoshop and the OS trying to access the disk at the same time. If your Efficiency number often drops below 95%, the gain can be large. Faster disks are better. A RAID0 array is faster, an SSD faster still. If using a RAID or SSD, try setting the Tile Size to 1024K – AMD CPUs prefer 132K / 1028K sizes, but 128K and especially 1024K are more efficient for RAID and SSD use regardless of CPU type.
GPU Settings: you can change GPU settings by clicking on the Advanced Settings button. For more more modern video cards there will be three options: Basic, Normal, Advanced. Changes to this setting will only take effect after PS restart, and would be worth experimenting with if painting performance is sluggish.
Posted by John Nack at 7:10 AM on September 03, 2010
* I understand Mr. Nack may have moved to a different area of Adobe management?
Wo Tai Lao Le
我太老了

Nice of you to point it out here as I at least don’t follow Mr.Nash’s blog regularly.

How to set up Airport Extreme with Charter ARRIS Modem TM902A for the first time for WIRELESS.

How to set up Airport Extreme with Charter ARRIS Modem TM902A for the first time for WIRELESS.
When Charter Tech goes to your site, have them connect the modem up, but do not connect the modem to your iMAC or MacBook Pro. What you want to do is connect the Airport Extreme to the iMac or MacBook Pro first with the Ethernet Cable. You have to do this to configure via Airport Utility to set up the Base Station Name & Base Station Password.
You will then create/configure a Wireless Network, create your Wireless Password that will be entered on each of your Devices, example, Apple Tv, your iPhone, etc., you want to allow access to your Wireless Network you are creating.
Wireless Security will be -> WPA/WPA2 personal or just WPA2
Enter the Wireless Password you want
Verify the Wireless Password (enter it again)
After it is created you will see it on the Airport Utility window with the name you created for it and to the left, will be a Dot (circle that will be yellow).
Next you then want to unplug the power to the Airport Extreme, and then take the end of the Ethernet cable you unplugged from the iMac or Lap top MacBook Pro and connect it to the back of the Modem.
Next unplug the power cord from the modem and wait about 5 minutes, then plug the power back into the Arris Modem and wait until all lights come back on the modem wait
about 5 minutes, then plug the power cord back to the Airport Extreme and you will see it the light blinking yellow. Wait about 5 to 10 minutes, during this time Restart you IMAC or MacBook Pro, and once it is back up click on the Airport Utility and you should see on the Airport Utility screen.
For INTERNET to the left the light should be green and you should see the Airport Extreme also appear and the light to the left on the screen should also be green. If they are, you then should be able to click on the Wireless Symbol on top of bar of the screen and click to select the Wireless Network Name you created.
If you Do Not See the light (Icon) next to INTERNET turn Green, or if you see the Internet Light Green, but the Light (Icon) next to the Airport Extreme is yellow, unplug the power again to the modem and unplug the power again to the Airport extreme and wait about 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes. Then plug the power cord back to the modem wait till all the lights light up then, plug the power cord back into the Airport Extreme and Restart your iMAC or MacBook Pro.
The Airport Extreme light should change from yellow to green. Open up the Airport Utility to see what the indicators are showing they should both be green. Again select Wireless network you created under the Wireless Icon on the top right of the screen. Open Safari and see if you are able to Route to a web page or the apple site should appear.
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR AIRPORT EXTREME WAS PREVIOUSLY SET UP FOR USE WITH ANOTHER CARRIERS ROUTER OR MODEM.
NOTE: If you already had your Airport Extreme connected for example, I previously had ATT Uverse and the Airport Extreme was connected to the Wireless Router Model 3801HGV, I disabled the Uverse Wireless and used the Airport Extreme for the Wireless signal in bridge mode, as the Airport extreme Signal is much stronger than the Uverse router, and I was able to obtain a Wireless signal with the Airport Extreme way much better with no signal loss which was very very frustrating with the Uverse router.
Anyhow if you had it hooked up like this, now that you will be using it with the Charter ARRIS Modem TM902A, you will need to reset the Airport Extreme to clear out the old data it has in memory, with the previous set up otherwise it will not work. Trust me I spent 6 hours trying to make it work reading all Apple Support Community questions and answers relating to this type issue/problem others have been having trying to get their set up working. I tried all the tips, and I finally decided just to see if by chance I would be able to connect with someone with Charter Tech support who might be familiar with Apple to be able to assist me and by luck I did. He told me why it was not working and was all due the previous configuration with the ATT Uverse router was still in memory with the Airport Extreme. Finally it was 10:30 PM when I decided to call Charter Tech Support and I had been working on this since 3:00 pm pacific. I did not call them earlier as all the post I read said they never received any good help from Charter. After calling them I finished up by 11:00 PM and was able to finally connect Apple Tv, iMac, iPhones and Macbook Pro. We love our Apple Product and Happy all is connected with the new
Internet Provider Charter. I must say the speed is way way much better than it ever was with AT&T Uverse.
THIS IS WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO DO:
First you will need to unplug the Airport Extreme, then by taking the tip of a pen or paper clip end you need to push the reset button on the back of the Airport Extreme and hold it
down and at the same time plug the power cord back into the Airport Extreme count to 5 or 10 then release the reset button. Then once he light in front of the Airport Extreme stops blinking you need to plug the Ethernet cable from the Airport Extreme to your iMAC or Macbook Pro, and restart which ever one you have, then open the Airport Utility once it is back up. If you see airport extreme pop up with the old network name or it shows and yellow triangle click on the Airport Extreme ICON it will not let you configure it but will ask if you want to get rid of it or remove and just do it. Then Again restart your iMAC or MacBook Pro, open up Airport Utility again, and on the top left you should see under “Other Airport Base Stations” the MAC ID for the Airport Extreme.
You will then create/configure a Wireless Network, create your Wireless Password that will be entered on each of your Devices, example, Apple TV, your iPhone, etc., you want to allow access to your Wireless Network you are creating.
Wireless Security will be -> WPA/WPA2 personal or just WPA2
Enter the Wireless Password you want
Verify the Wireless Password (enter it again)
After it is created you will see it on the Airport Utility window with the name you created for it and to the left, will be a Dot (circle that will be yellow).
Next you then want to unplug the power to the Airport Extreme, and then take the end of the Ethernet cable you unplugged from the iMac or Lap top MacBook Pro and connect it to the back of the Modem.
Next unplug the power cord from the modem and wait about 5 minutes, then plug the power back into the Arris Modem and wait until all lights come back on the modem wait
about 5 minutes, then plug the power cord back to the Airport Extreme and you will see it the light blinking yellow. Wait about 5 to 10 minutes, during this time Restart you IMAC or MacBook Pro, and once it is back up click on the Airport Utility and you should see on the Airport Utility screen.
For INTERNET to the left the light should be green and you should see the Airport Extreme also appear and the light to the left on the screen should also be green. If they are, you then should be able to click on the Wireless Symbol on top of bar of the screen and click to select the Wireless Network Name you created.
If you Do Not See the light (Icon) next to INTERNET turn Green, or if you see the Internet Light Green, but the Light (Icon) next to the Airport Extreme is yellow, unplug the power again to the modem and unplug the power again to the Airport extreme and wait about 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes. Then plug the power cord back to the modem wait till all the lights light up then, plug the power cord back into the Airport Extreme and Restart your iMAC or MacBook Pro.
The Airport Extreme light should change from yellow to green. Open up the Airport Utility to see what the indicators are showing they should both be green. Again select Wireless network you created under the Wireless Icon on the top right of the screen. Open Safari and see if you are able to Route to a web page or the apple site should appear.

I just got a Charter Modem. Model TM822. While I was moving, my Airport Extreme was still at my old place.
I have a Linksys WRT320N I used for the initial Charter setup.
I can get my Airport to work here, but the Internet light on the Modem flashes Yellow.
Hasn't caused any issues so far but one thing I did notice.
On the Linksys there were 3 DNS servers listed.
The Airport Extreme only lists 2 and i don't see where I could add another, only change whats already there.
I tried everything above, but light on modem still flashes yellow.
I have the technicians cell phone. Told me "that shouldn't be" and gave the same advice listed above.
I'll break down and call Charter one day, see if it's on their end. NSA tracking may need a reset LMAO.

How to set target to Play button on begining DVD

Man you dont use this program for a few months and you gotta take a course on it all over again.
Ive completely forgotten how to set the PLAY button to activate at the beginning of the DVD. As in I was burning several DVDs and I tested them on my computer, and they worked fine. But the whole time I was using my mouse to navigate (I only put in one button "PLAY"). When at one point I happened to use the DVD navigator I realized I hadnt set it for a stand alone. So while if you watched it on a computer and were using your mouse you could hit the play button. But on a stand alone you cant get to it with a remote.
I remember it being a simply thing, but for the life of me I cant figure it out. HELP!

So are you talking about moving between the buttons on a menu screen (i.e. navigation in the menu) or are you saying you can't get the button to activate any video? Or both?
The first issue is sorted out with the 'Settings' drop down box and choosing 'assign buttons now' or 'auto assign buttons' (but this slows down the menu creation and gets really frustrating at times). You should then be able to get to the menu (which will have the first button highlighted and ready by default) and then use the handset to move from button to button.
The second bit is setting the target for the button - where it goes to once you select and activate it. Open up your menu in DVDSP and click on the buttons in turn. Look in the property inspector for the 'target' and make sure that each button is going where you intend.
Alternatively, use the connections tab - this is far faster, IMO, but is slightly more abstract in concept...
If you have done these things and you still cannot get to the button using the remote control then there is something else wrong - it could be that you simply forgot to create a button but have the text there ready... without the button rectangle being drawn out over the text (or next to it) there will be no button and no way to activate anything.

MOVED: How to set AGP so my MSI 6600GT (AGP) is stable?

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