MOVED: MSI 760GM-P33 MOBO Boot Problem

This topic has been moved to MSI AMD boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=255889.0

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  • MOVED: MSI K8N Diamond SLi boot problem

    This topic has been moved to AMD64 nVidia Based board.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=96886.0

    Quote from: Sealance on 14-May-06, 22:30:32
    We had a unit do the same thing that you are talking about here. I found after two days of test that it was the Heatsink. It had the grease but it was not seated just right. When I redid the Heat sink the issue went away. I had to clean them both and then surface the Heatsink with 600 grt paper.
       When I put it back together it worked fine.
    I can't say that this is it, what is wrong with yours but it does and is doing the same things that we had going on with us.
    You might check this and see. Because it would not boot no matter what we did. And it will heat up and trip out in a second.
       And this is after the machine had run playing games for a week or so. I thinkt he Heat sink warped from the heat. I have never seen one do this before but I guess it could happen. Any way it fixed ours.
    Do You mean the CPU heatsink, or GPU heatsink? -
    By the way, who wants to guess if I was blessed or not - and if buying a new $150+ PSU really helped 
    Please, any more help would be great 

  • MSI 760gm-p33 CPU voltage problem

    I have AMD phenom II x2 555 processor. And my problem is that the CPU voltage set as auto in the motherboard bios but it's set as 1.44
    and the recommended voltages to my CPU according to AMD is between (0.875-1.40V). That's mean that the maximum voltage for my CPU is 1.40 but it is
    set as 1.44 by the motherboard and this could damage my CPU.
    I need A solution Please.
    Sorry for bad English

    Quote from: Fredrik on 29-December-11, 06:36:18
    You changed processor recently?
    What is telling you about the voltage? And, why did you wonder about the voltage?
    What RAM memory have you got?
    Clear CMOS. Pull power-cable out first.
    Thanks for replying fredrik.
    I didn't change the anything.
    I used CPU-Z to know the voltage & I wonder about the voltage because it's high for my CPU.
    I have kingston 2*2G DDR3/1333 1.5v
     

  • MOVED: Msi K9A2 Platinum slow boot up on Vista 64 Bit

    This topic has been moved to Vista problems.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=120556.0
    The problem described is Vista related.

    I experienced similar problems this weekend with my rig.
    I have two WD Raptor drives, 150GB on the promise controller and SATA DVD on SB600. If I started Vista, it would boot, show POST screen, then I would see the initial Windows green bar, but after a minute with lots of disk activity then the system would reboot.
    Next, I would then be promoted to start windows normally, or start with the last known good configuration, sometimes this worked, sometime it did not. This happended for a while, until I managed to install all of the optional and recommended Vista 64bit OS patches and an updated promise raid driver. 
    Once these were installed, my system had no boot problems at all, so I would make sure your promise driver is up to date and that all the Vista 64bit OS patches, updates etc are installed.

  • New MSI 760gm-P23 Mobo no signal

    I just got the  MSI 760gm-P23 motherboard in the mail after the one i had before it (exact same model) died to my beliefs. So the problem is after i have everything hooked up and I turn it on I wait for it to post and nothing ever happens, the screen remains black while the pc seems to be running. I have checked my Ram and Video card and they are both working properly.
    Specs:
    MSI 760GM-P23 Motherboard
    CPU - AMD Phenom X 6 2.7GHZ
    RAM - Kingston 8GB Hyper X Stick
    PSU - Thermaltake 500W
    GPU - Nvidia GeForce GTS 450

    double check all power cables and try to boot with mainboard out of PC case placed over wooden table

  • MSI G33M-FI and MSI 9600GT OC cold boot problem

    So I just recently put together my new computer (MSI G33M-FI motherboard) and whenever I shut it down and turn it on the computer will turn off in about 3 seconds (you won't see the bios screen) and then it just turns on and off endlessly/ in a loop.
    Fix is to clear CMOS and it will boot ok but whenever I turn it off (no restart..) the problem is back!, only clear CMOS helps...
    Good thing I found the problem, the videocard (MSI 9600GT OC). When I switch it with my poorly ATI 1950pro I have no problem with a cold boot.
    Using the latest bios version with the motherboard (on the MSI site). Havent flashed my 9600GT 512mb (red double slot cooler version) with a another bios yet though.. (if there is 1, just checked- no new bios).
    Anyone got an idea how to fix this? I don't think so but maybe they should make a new bios to fix this?
    Other parts from computer: Patriot extreme 4 gig (2x2) ddr2 performance (4-4-4-12, 2.2 volt) and an intel e8400 cpu.
    Anyone else having this problem? Thanks...

    I had cold-boot problems with my G33M-FI.  Tried E2140 and Q6600 CPUs at stock voltages/clocks, tried two different sets of DDR2-800 RAM (4x1GB and 4x2GB), tried different CMOS batteries and tried two different power supplies (Thermaltake and Coolermaster 500W supplies).  Regardless of combination of components, system would frequently fail to POST.  Problems were experienced with integrated video (no add-on cards installed) and with/without any drives connected.  Problems were also experienced with a single good stick of RAM in slot 1 vs. all four slots populated.  Once booted, the system performed flawlessly passing memtest86+ and other reliability/stability tests.  Once the system failed to boot, it would almost never boot again until I cleared the BIOS (sometimes requiring me to remove and reinsert the CMOS battery, since the jumper alone didn't cure the problem).  Trial and error of different hardware combinations in an attempt to isolate the problem with a CMOS clear/recovery between attempts proved to be a very painful and tedious process.  After speaking with MSI tech support, solution was to RMA the board.

  • MOVED: MSI K8N Neo 2 Platinum Problem

    This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
    MSI K8N Neo 2 Platinum Problem

    A lot of things could be wrong but it will be easier to figure out if we know what you did.  When you say you changed settings in Bios, do you remember your last settings and what you did?
    It might be helpful if you created a sig (as described in the forum rules) to show what you have in your system like my sig below. (Hint- use profile button in sign on screen.)
    Things could be broken even if there is no visible evidence (such as flames or melted component) of course.
    If I had to guess and your d-bracket reading is correct, corrupted bios requiring new bios chip, but let's not guess as a lot of things could be wrong and you don't want to invest in a new bios chip if the board cannot be brought back to life.  Consider removing parts and testing them in an other machine.  Start with CPU and memory?
    Good luck.

  • MSI K8t NEO + Audigy Boot Problem only when power is unplugged on the PSU

    I ran into a really weird problem today.
    I switched the ps off by reaching back and pressing the button. I repress the button to power on the ps, then I click on the button in the fron of the case to power up the machine. System keeps rebooting itself every 1 sec. Bracket shows 4 red lights. In the manual, it says it means bad cpu. I remove the audigy and it boots fine. I install the audigy, 4 red lights.
    So, This time instead of turning the puter off by using the button on ps. I used the button on the case by holding it down for 5 seconds. I reboot and puter boots normally.
    So the problem is, if i turn the puter off by using the button on the PS and with audigy in the syste. Nothing on screen, and puter keeps rebooting itself every one second. Solution is to turn the puter off by using the button on the case.
    Has anyone ran into this problem? I have never had this kind of problem. It is really weird. Any feedback is apreciated.
    Oh and it is only with audigy. I tested this with original live, and also other PCI cards like nic, and another cheap sound card. Non of these cards showed this problem.

    Cavemankr!
    I never knew you could shut down the computer by holding down the start button for 5 seconds.... well I've never really had the need to...until I got this K8T Neo job. I wondered why it wouldn't turn off when I just pushed it. I've been using the PSU switch with these problems.
    Yep! She booted right up. Audigy back in action. I also realized I had my PC hooked straight in the wall (while checking to see if my surge protector was working this weekend), so turning off the surge protector wasn't cutting power to the cheapo PSU.
    So put me in your camp!
    I'll just plug the PC straight into the UPS and keep power fed to the Enermax. I hope that was the cause of my keyboard/mouse cold boot problem also.
    I'll assume the cheapo PSU will behave similarly. I don't really want to go through the swap again.  
    I wonder why that happens!
    Buddy
    Vor uns liegt ein weites tal
    Die sonne scheint mit glitzerstrahl

  • MSI 848P Neo-V boot problem

    Hi!
    Boot problem still persists. First I thought it was due to the lack of CPU microcode support (tried to use Celeron D 325, I didn't get confirmation for this support from anywhere, a bit disputed thing). Now tried with a 2GHz northwood Celeron with no success. All parts are unused. Maybe my memories (2 x TWINMOS DDR-400MHz 256MB with m-tech chips) are not compatible with the motherboard.
    Just came to my mind, does P4 systems require a heatsink for a POST operation, mean is there some sensors which make the CPU to refuse to work if no cooler is attached to mainboard? I tried to make things work traditionally without heatsink for a quick lookup...
    -Thanks,
    netnode

    I did not understand. Is heat sink mandatory? At least P3 and earlier did not require heatsink. Once a boxed P2 (buil-in fan) required to attach the fan cord to the mainboard to boot up, so I also did this.

  • MOVED: MSI GF615M-P33 7597 Ver 1.3 BIOS problem...

    This topic has been moved to Older MSI motherboards.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=253102.0

    Quote
    well... i don't have another psu right now... but this psu worked fine for me for about 4 years... are you certain that this is the problem?
    your PSU used even new is a junk one[avoid cheap and unknown PSU's at all cost] and non trusted
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=116580.0
    Quote
    but this psu worked fine for me for about 4 years...
    and you expect to work fine forever?
    Quote
    are you certain that this is the problem?
    that's most suspected.
    for such old machine everything could be the reason, but the PSU is the most suspected
    Quote
    it would be perfect if you can tell me what bios was installed by default on this mb..
    that's impossible to tell, bios version vary depend of mainboard production date release
    since you worked on this PC for 4 years, you should be noted what BIOS version its running
    there is no way to guess what BIOS version you was running
    Quote
    i want to give a shot with it...
    the bios is correct one, you can also try to rename A7597NMS.2A0 to AMIBOOT.ROM
    and to press Ctrl+Home at power up to see if that can helps

  • MSi GD-65 Gaming MOBO boot problems

    Hi
    I have just recently purchased this board, all is fine booting up etc, but when i want to enable the integrated graphics, it wont boot. its fine booting with just gtx 670 but i need to enable the i7 2600k hd3000 graphics for me to use virtu  mvp.
    On my last board (gigabyte z68xp-us3p) it was automatically enabled and booted fine showing both my gtx 670 & hd3000 in the device manager, but the msi seems to not like it for some reason as it only shows my gtx670 in device manager.
    Either im not doing the settings in the bios correctly or its something else ive missed.
    any help would be greatly appreciated. Image is what i currently have it set at for my gtx670, if i change any of the settings it just wont boot.
    Thanks
    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Quote from: The CPU Whisperer on 07-May-13, 15:39:44
    Are you using D-mode or I-mode?
    http://www.lucidlogix.com/technology-virtual-graphics.html
    My experience with Virtu is that is has a negative affect on the 3D performance so I disabled it again.
    Have tried both modes, still wont boot when i enable intergrated

  • MSI 990XA-GD55 Mobo: Boots fine, no POST/chance to enter setup

    So I have built my own setup here, been running it since May of this last year. I never thought about it until recently, but my computer has never done a POST, or shown me the screen that allows me to get to BIOS or Boot screens. The computer has been running fine, until recently (About a month ago or so) I will be playing any kind of game, and the computer just COMPLETELY crashes. No closing of the game and shutting itself down, no blue screens, just one second the comp is running, and the next it is shut down. So I did a stress test of CPU and GPU to see if they were just overheating or were on their way out the door... But both passed stress tests just fine. I then wanted to check my memory/BIOS, and this is where the no POST and setup screen "clicked" for me... I have been searching everywhere for info on this topic, and the best I can come up with is that there is a problem with my G Skill memory not being recognized? I have DDR3 1600 going, as it shows I can use up to at least 1866 without OC on this mobo. So I went to check what my BIOS said, went to owners manual to see how to get to it (As I never saw the screen where it asks you to press "Delete" or F11), yet in the manual, it says to look for exactly that. So I guess my MAIN question is... How do I get my computer to show me that screen on startup? I have read to reset the jumper to the 2-3 position for 15 seconds on the JBAT, and if that does not work, to pop out the CMOS battery... But wanted to get other opinions before I attempted such things. And in doing this, and possibly getting to the BIOS screen, will that even help me with my original problem of my computer all of a sudden crashing in prolonged "stress" situations? Ie, playing Lord of The Rings Online, I generally have to play for a few hours before it crashes as such. I tried to play Assassins Creed 3 today, and it crashed in the first 10 minutes. This led to my investigation into the GPU (As it only really occurs when playing video games). I was thinking the system was just overheating and auto turning itself off to protect, but after doing the stress tests, GPU stayed pretty stable at 80-85c over an hour, and CPU stayed below 76c on an hour stress test. I even did an hour PSU test, no crash... The only thing I can think would be memory.
    I apologize for the multitude of questions and possibly incoherent order in which I wrote, but just trying to get as much pertinent info/process I went through as possible. Thanks in advance for any replies, and will be happy to give any extra info if needed!
    Board: MSI 990XA-GD55
    Bios: Version 22.2
    VGA:    XFX HD-687A-ZHFC Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready
    PSU:   APEVIA ATX-CB700W 700W ATX12V / EPS12V
    Intel AMD FX-4100 Zambezi 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
    MEM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9D-
    HDD:  Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
    COOLER: 2x140mm 4kRPM fans
    OS: Windows 7 64bit Ultimate
    EDIT: After looking through all the left over cases from items I purchased when building this comp, I realize I actually purchased 1866 DDR3, not 1600. But in looking at system properties here, it registers as 1600... But as I said before, I cannot access BIOS to adjust these values. Or maybe that is my problem in first place?

    I was wondering about a good voltage for this setup, I think these two are running at 1.6V to start with... So going lower voltage would be ideal then, hmm? Less heat, less power consumption, and you do not have to worry about a decrease in performance? Especially if the latencies are lower, correct?
    And I hate to say this, but I have had one of my first "noob" moments ever with this problem... It has been a few months since I took some compressed air to the mobo.. So went and bought some, blasted the heck outta the CPU/GPU/PSU, and the North/South bridges... Ran the same CPU stress test for twice as long, and it hovered at 41c, 42c was my max... *facepalm*. Before, it was even overclocking the CPU to 3.8GHz or so to work with the "data" it was running.. After compressed air, never really went above the 3.6 stock speed. I have never felt like such a goober!
    As for the BIOS, turns out the F lock solved the problem, as the delete key is somehow considered a function key for this keyboard I guess. Was able to get into the BIOS, do some tweaking and all. Still nice to know that these newer systems dont beep anymore, and where to start pressing the delete key, instead of mashing it from boot!
    Yet again, thanks for the tips, and this bit on memory/RAM is interesting, thank you for that input as well! I do not plan on upgrading the CPU any time soon, unless it is in a weakened state thanks to my neglect.. But I am still fuzzy on RAM details, so the mention of Latency/Voltage helped me in my upgrade search, thank you! If I am understanding it correctly, the 1866 will be future proofed, as well as having the ability for lower latencies compared to 1600? Does my system not go to 1866 because of the CPU or the mobo? As I thought the mobo supported up to 2133 OC.. So most likely the CPU, correct? I am looking at some Mushkin memory, if I get some 1866, I can lower its frequency to 1600, but decrease its latency in the process? ie getting some CL9, and lowering it to 1600 and CL8? How would I go about this, if you do not mind my asking? (If I understand correctly).
    Thanks again!
    EDIT: I brought up the msi control center, and see that my RAM is actually running at ~1.5V. How can I see the latencies it is running at? It is rated at CL9 at 1866..

  • MSI Z77A-GD65 loop boot problem

    Hello, 20 days ago I bought this mobo, with Intel Core I-7-2600K (Sandy Bridge), 16 Gb of RAM Corsair Vengeance (CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9).
    It worked fine for 20 days, then today, when   I turned on the pc It didn't boot, and it goes in a loop sequence, the cpu fan starts for 3 seconds and then stops, and then continue like this forever until I press the button for sveral second tu turn everything off.
    I tryed:
    3 different psu's
    different type of ram in every slot (single and/or together)
    Unlinked all from the mobo and put it out of the case with only psu attached.
    CMOS cleared
    Always same problem.
    Now I RMA it, soon I'll receive a new one but I saw on the web that most users of this mobo had the boot loop problem, so I was hoping if it was mine that was faulty or is there a known Problem?
    I work with this pc and I don't want to receive another one with the same problem.....
    Many thanks to all.
    Many thanks.

    Funny thing. That very same thing happened to me on a Gigabyte P67 board a while ago. I ended up having to return the board, luckily I had purchased it at a Microcenter so that was easy to do and I went with the MSI I have now.
    At the time I was not able to resolve it, but the symptoms were exactly the same. Doesn't mean you have the same problem or cause, but I had exactly that.
    I would advise a number of things that all revolve around eliminating potential trouble spots entirely:
    - If you have 4 sticks of 4GB RAM, remove two of them (refer to your manual to know in which order to remove them; leave just one bank (2 sticks) populated.
    If that doesn't help, swap the remaining 8GB with the 8GB you removed. That would diagnose a crude memory failure in one of the sticks.
    - Remove any hardware you can, including any extra sound/network card and your video card, and see if the power-on pattern changes.
    - Disconnect all external devices from USB, eSATA, even disconnect your regular SATA drives just to see if the pattern changes at all.
    - If you observe changes doing any of those things, you can hone in on the offending component.
    - If you are using an aftermarket heatsink that uses screws, make sure the heatsink is not wobbling because it came lose a little.
    This is assuming you built it yourself and are familiar with handling the components and what precautions to take!

  • MOVED: K8N Neo 4 Platinum Boot problem

    This topic has been moved to AMD64 nVidia Based board.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=110171.0

    Ups, I messed up. Thanks for moving this to the correct forum!
    Yes, I'm using 1st Dimm slot. I cleared CMOS with and without the power cord, with and without the battery, and every way possible. I even held the button down for 2 minutes.
    PSU is Vitsuba 450W. The 12V rail has 20A.
    I don't have a better PSU. Should I buy one?
    Already tried barebone setup. Just didn't know what it was called. Reseated CPU but didn't change anything. There are no bent pins.
    How this happened. I was working in windows and it BSOD. I reset and it didn't boot at first time, but after several tries it finally booted. That was last week. The problem repeated once again yesterday, so I decided to do a clean reinstall of Windows, just in case. So I had some troubles to boot again but it booted ok after some time. Installed windows, drivers, updates, apps, etc and everything was fine. I switched off the system yesterday at night. Today the pc won't boot anymore. So, here I am!
    Thanks for your assistance and don't hesitate to ask me some more questions!

  • MSI Z87-GD65 MOBO PCIe problems

    Hi,
     We have problem with this configuration:
    Main Board: MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming
    Bios Version: 1.C
    Video Card: NA
    PSU:   Kairos 500W
    12v rail Rating of listed PSU:NA
    CPU:Core I5-4690 3.5Ghz
    Memory: 2x  Kingston K531R8-ETB 4GB
    HDD: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200
    CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 412S
    Raid Card:NA
    Sound Card:NA
    2x Network Card PCI-E (2 Ethernet Gigabit ports, 10/100/1000 Mbit/s, chipset Pericom PI7C9X2G)
    2x M-Cab 7070023 - Network Card (PCI Express, 2 x RJ-45, 10/100/1000 Base-T)
    3x MikroTik RouterBOARD RB44Ge - Gigabit Ethernet Network Card (4 Gigabit Ethernet ports 10, 100 y 1000 Mbit/s)
    OC: NO
    Operating System: OpenBSD 5.7
      We were working with 2x Network Card PCI-E and 1x MikroTik RouterBOARD RB44Ge without problems but now update until 7 NICs and the PC doesn't boot. From 4th NIC doesn't boot, we've tried all position on the mobo and tried Graphics card too, but the reslt it's the same.
    Test with other PSU... The same. Unpluged 1 RAM stick, DVD and fan... The same result. We can't boot from 4th card (NIC, graphics...)
    Code debug is 96.
    Can you help us?
    TXS.

    Quote from: helpdesk on 19-June-15, 19:02:55
    Main Board: MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming
    CPU:Core I5-4690 3.5Ghz
    2x Network Card PCI-E (2 Ethernet Gigabit ports, 10/100/1000 Mbit/s, chipset Pericom PI7C9X2G)
    2x M-Cab 7070023 - Network Card (PCI Express, 2 x RJ-45, 10/100/1000 Base-T)
    3x MikroTik RouterBOARD RB44Ge - Gigabit Ethernet Network Card (4 Gigabit Ethernet ports 10, 100 y 1000 Mbit/s)
      We were working with 2x Network Card PCI-E and 1x MikroTik RouterBOARD RB44Ge without problems but now update until 7 NICs and the PC doesn't boot. From 4th NIC doesn't boot, we've tried all position on the mobo and tried Graphics card too, but the reslt it's the same.
    Test with other PSU... The same. Unpluged 1 RAM stick, DVD and fan... The same result. We can't boot from 4th card (NIC, graphics...)
    You have 3 PCI-E x16 slots (x8-x4-x4) and 4 PCI-E x1 slots.
    On the other hand, your CPU is limited to 16 PCI-E lanes.
    Those 3 x RB44Ge routers are PCI-E x4, so you're going to use ALL the PCI-E x16 slots for them.
    With the remaining PCI-E lanes you need to be lucky ... 

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