My macbook pro won't display on a tv with hdmi cable

My macbook pro won't display onto a tv with an hdmi cable. But it isn't the cable or the tv because it worked with my girlfriends macbook pro. When I tried it on her tv it came up with the display but it was sketchy. On my tv it won't show up. Is it a setting or could the display port be messed up?

I had same problem with mac air. After yosemite upgrade the firewall was on, turned it off and mac started to airplay to AppleTV again.

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Macbook Pro won't login after sleep (sleep with low battery -- mac turned off maybe it's called save sleep)

Macbook Pro won't login after sleep (sleep with low battery --> mac turned off maybe it's called save sleep)
So if I hit the powerbutton my mbp booted like it is booting from the save sleep (so very fast and the login screen is there in about 10 sec.and there is no apple logo while booting just the desktop screen in "unsharp" ore foggy however...)
Then when i see the login (if the keyboard backlight turned on) i wand do tipe in my code but it won't work... the trackpad is not working; and when i plug-in a usb mouse the mbp is not powering on the usb-mouse (laser is off)
Why is that this way?
Is there n option to wake up the mbp fromm deep/save sleep without haveing issiues after that?
THX

Sorry for such a long delayed response...
I was able to get to an apple store this past weekend, and let me tell you... I'm about finished with there great "support".
Right before I went to the store, I tried to eject a disk. Well the cloth in the SuperDrive (I assume to protect the drive from dust and such) Pulled up with my disk. So I get the Apple store, describe my problem and what happened with the cloth piece. The "Genius" writes up a form and tells me they have to run diagnostic and it will take a couple days... and I will get a call when its done (1-3 days).
Well on day number 3 I called up the store and they told me it was ready to be picked up? I asked if anything had been fixed and they told me they could not reproduce my "sleep issue", so they couldn't fix that.. but told me the cloth piece in the SuperDrive had been fixed.
I drive an hour (one way) to the Apple store to find that all they did was PULLED OUT the cloth... they did not replace it! So basically I have a hole for a Super Drive.
I asked why I was not called to say that my computer was ready to be picked up... didn't get an answer on that one.
I asked why my SuperDrive was said to be fixed, when nothing was done... they told me that it would have to be sent out to the factory store for that to be fixed (FIRST TIME THEY MENTIONED THAT!) Oh, and that would take 5-7 business days. Well that's not going to happen right now considering I'm a college student that NEEDS a working computer!
So I go home, angry... start just putting all my important documents back on the computer. And the screen starts blinking!!!! I guess now I have the same thing described in another post on these forms...
Lets just say that I'm not very happy with Apple right now! If anybody else has success on either the sleep issue or the screen blinking issue, please let me know!
Thank you!

Macbook Pro won't display 2560X1440 res.

I have a macbook pro that was bought about 4 years ago with a NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M video card. I connect my laptop to a dell 27" LCD that is capable of 2560 X 1440 resolution. This has always worked until I installed the latest version of Diablo 3. Now it will only run at "1080p". I have done the hold alt while clicking on Scaled in the display settings and that does not display the 2560X1440 option. The closest I have come to resolving this problem is to reboot the laptop and reset the NPRAM (alt+command+R+P). When I do that, the system comes up in a lower resolution but the 2560X1440 is displayed in the display options. Clicking on that setting causes the setting to go away and the 27" LCD sets to "1080p"

OnceAPCLover,
can you still get 2560 × 1440 resolution on your external monitor in other programs? Is it only Diablo 3 where you can’t get 2560 × 1440?
Do you have access to a different monitor to try out, to see if the problem resides with the monitor rather than with the MacBook Pro?

MacBook Pro won't display on projector

I have a 17" MacBook Pro (original) with the full-size DVI connector for external displays. My co-worker has the 15" version of the same MacBook Pro. We can connect LCD monitors to either one of them and they work fine. I can also connect mine to our classroom projectors with no problem, but his will not work with the same projectors, same adapters, same cables, no matter what we've tried. The projector just says "no input." Also, his will not start up properly with the projector attached. It hangs, with the spinning ball, at different places in the startup. Sometimes you get the menu bar, sometimes the menu bar and the dock, but no desktop icons.
Any ideas?

The typical convention is to attach the external device to the DVI port before starting the computer. During the startup polling, that tells the computer to expect the external.
Have you tried a regular external monitor with either computer? If that works, it suggests something amiss with the cable or the projector. Have you searched the projector's web site for any mention of not liking Macs?

MacBook Pro Won't Display on Projector Properly

I'm trying to plug my projector in my MacBook Pro but for some reason when I plug my projector into my HDMI port on my MacBook it will change resolutions, go black, change resolutions, go black, and so on. It's a cycle and will only stay on each resolution for a few seconds. I would love to get this figured out so I can stream movies on a very large screen but it has left me scratching my head. I have a new MacBook Pro Retina 2.8GHz, 16 GB RAM, and Intel Iris Pro graphics coupled with the NVIDIA graphics if this helps. Also running the latest version of Yosemite.
Thanks,
Tyler

Hello wts2,
I'm sorry to hear you are having this issue with your MacBook Pro and your projector. If you continue to have connection or resolution issues with your projector, you may find the information and troubleshooting steps outlined in the following article helpful:
Apple computers: Troubleshooting issues with video on internal or external displays - Apple Support
Sincerely,
- Brenden

MacBook Pro won't display on my SAMSUNG 2232BW monitor

Allright, so i bought this nice macbook pro 2 days ago and it works fantastic. I got myself a mini-dvi to HDMI converter so i can connect my external 2232BW samsung display to it. The mac detects the thing just fine, gets the model number and everything and all the settings appare to be right, but i get no image on the display. I hooked the display up to my old PC laptop which has an HDMI port and works fine. So there is either something with my mac or my mini-dvi to HDMI adapter.
Any ideas?

I had a problem just like that. I use a mini-dp to hdmi adapter to connect my mbp in a tv with a hdmi-hdmi cable.
I have another computer with a dvi interface and I can connect it to the same tv using a hdmi-dvi cable. Using a dvi-dvi it also works with my 2232 monitor.
But, if I use this hdmi-dvi cable with the minidp-hdmi adapter to connect the mbp to 2232 monitor, it doesn't work. The mbp detects the monitor, brand, model and resolution but I get no image in the display.
So, I'm pretty sure that the adapter is working, the cable is working, the monitor is working. But not all them together :S

MacBook Pro won't get off startup screen with apple logo. Help?

Could someone please tell me how I can get my macbook to get off that stupid startup screen with the apple logo? It won't go past that screen and boot properly. I have tried reinstalling OS X didn't work. I tried running a disk utility test and no errors where found. I don't have the time machine thingy so I couldn't try that. Is there anything else I can do before taking it to Apple and l
paying hundreds of dollars???
thanks in advance!!!

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Late 2008 MacBook Pro won't boot; only gray screen with Apple, spinning gear, and then the mouse pointer.

Thanks to all in advance! Okay, last night I was trying to encrypt a Time Machine BackUp disk (Seagate 500GB Back Up Plus) and a dialog box popped up and said "POSIX could not..." And then whatever was next. So I unplugged the drive, plugged it back in, and the files still showed up, so I was like "oh okay so it's not screwed up." The next I try and boot my MacBook Pro, and of course it doesn't. The gray screen comes up, the logo shows up, the gear is spinnin, the it goes away and the mouse shows up. But that's where it stops. And sits. And sits. And sits. So I force it to shut down. I run through this many more times, as well as attempting the Recovery Mode, Safe Boot, and to no surprise, it doesn't work. So I go grab my trusty Snow Leopard disc, pop it in, ctrl-C on start up and it loads. So I select the option of restoring from a Time Machine backup and plug in the external drive only to not see it in the list. So I go to Disk Utility, and find out that the entire external drive has been erased and renamed disk8s2. So I go to my internal drive, but it shows how much has been used and it matches to how much as of last night. So I tried repairing the disk and restarting and of course it doesn't work. So now I don't know what to do. Really I'll take any suggestions besides buying anything (I'm only a 16 year old guy haha). So yeah. Thanks!

The encryption never actually followed through.
You started it, though. That makes the volume inaccessible to any OS X version before 10.7.

What is the problem with 15-inch Macbook Pro model 2011 after connecting to TV with HDMI chord?

Today we connected a 15-inch Macbook Pro model 2011 with HDMI chord to an Insigna Television. We plugged and unplugged couple of times. But recently the macbook pro is having technical issues. The following symptoms are:
1. Macbook pro turns on and off
2. The screen stays blue and keeps loading but does not load to the desktop so you can't access to anywhere
3. The screen sometimes becomes fuzzy and the apple logo that shows before it loads to the desktop is fuzzy
4. Sometimes fuzzy lines appear on the screen like you see on television when there's a bad signal
5. The screen stays blue
6. Sometimes little specks appear on the screen
Only thing we did was turn it off and restart but it still leads to the same symptoms above.
Does anyone have any clue what caused this problem? I am guessing it is due to the connection to the HDMI chord, since we didn't turn the macbook on and off when we plugged it, rather we just unplugged and plugged the chord while the macbook is running.
Another theory might be watching movies from an online source but the first theory seems to make more sense.
We scheduled a meeting with the genius bar tomorrow but does anyone might have any clue? And also any ideas how to fix this? This is an emergency because there are important files on the macbook we didn't back up and we hope the files are safe and we need to use the macbook ASAP. Let us know anything that might have caused this and/or any solutions or help. That would be appreciated and thank you.

Hey there! Welcome to the Discrete GPU issue clube ... post your relate here >>> 2011 MacBook Pro and Discrete Graphics Card
And for GOD SAKE! Call Apple to tell them that you're another user with such problem ... that action can improve a future recall. BTW the fix price for your problem is around U$ 1000,00 ... that's the meaning of the recall attempt

Macbook Pro won't boot past grey screen with Apple logo and then shuts off

This is a long story...
This morning, I would turn it on and it'd go to the grey screen with the Apple logo for a few seconds and then go to the icon that is a circle with a line through it. After reading online, I was able to boot it up in Safe Mode. I messed around a little bit in system preferences thinking I could fix it on my own, not really knowing what I was doing (I'm a *******). I went to Startup Disk in Preferences. I chose the MAC OS X, xxxx and then clicked the lock to prevent further changes and then clicked restart.
Now when I turn on the macbook, it goes to the grey screen with the Apple logo for at least two-three minutes and then just shuts off. Won't boot into Safe Mode now. Please help. I already tried the Command-Option-P-R keys trick like five times.

If you have a full retail DVD for 10.6 you can boot from that by holding the C key during startup...but you will then be in install mode if that is what you want to do. At least go ahead and see if it will boot ok from the 10.6 disk and then you can decide what you want to do further.
Apple does not have 10.5 for sale anymore from what some other users have said on here so if you want to go that route you will have to find a copy for sale such as from eBay or one of the Mac resellers.
Before taking the machine to someone, try booting from 10.6 and see if that works...that way you can narrow down problems the machine may be having.

New MacBook Pro won't ake up from sleep with Express Card in it.

My Mac won't come out of sleep if there is an express card in it. If I hit the power switch both screens light up but the mouse and keyboard are unresponsive. My only option at this point is to hold the power switch and (to quote Moss) "Force and unexpected reboot".
It also locks up if I power off and remove the card while it is awake.
Any help would be appreciated. If the answer is to load the next version of the OS to be released this month, I'll do that.

I have the same problem....MBP not waking from sleep with SIIG 2-Port ExpressCard installed....
10.4.10 etc..... Same thing happened with 10.4.9
I'll have to try the "Turn Power Off" command from the menu bar to see if that helps. But I just figure on having to do a funky restart if the machine goes to sleep on me.
Usually I'm editing and having the Energy Saver set to "Never Sleep" because that screws up editing software. But when I'm not editing....sleep my pretty!

MacBook Pro won't go beyond grey screen with wheel

My problem:
I don't know if it's related, but i erase essentials files on windows bootcamp that has access to my Macintosh HD partition with software enablinf hfs+.
I repaired my Windows partition, but since then my Macintosh HD crashed.
At first, it wasn't even mountable, but I finally plugged it as an external harddrive on another mac and I recover data with Data rescue 3, I repaired it with DiskWarrior, repaired permission, and repair with disk utility.
I don't know why but journalisation wasn't on anymore so i turned it back on with Recovery partition.
I would like to know if it's possible to repair this last problem.
In verbose:
dyld: Library not Loaded: /usr/lib/libicucore.A.dylib
     Referenced from: /System/Library/Frameworks/CoreFoundation.framework/versions/R/CoreFoundation
     Reason: image not found
com.apple.launchd 1     com.apple.launchctl.System 2     The system bootstrapper has crashed: Trace/BPT trap:5
And nothing else after.

To be honest, I don't remember exactly what did the trick, but after repairing my drive in diskwarior, i was finally able to see it from the lion recovery partition, so I did a reinstall (like update Mac OS X) and I didn't lost too much finally but i had a little older time machine backup, so i recombined my backup for files that I lost and the files that were still on the computer.
I still don't know exactly what was the cause of the problem, but I don't give bootcamp access to my mac partition anymore.

What are the Windows Experience Index numbers for Windows 7 running on a MacBook Pro 13 Retina Display?

I am curious to know what speed those running Windows 7 on a MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display are obtaining. I am interested in purchasing a MacBook Pro 13" Retina (i7) and will be running Windows 7 frequently since some of my business software only runs under Windows. I have heard that the best PC is a Mac. Just wanted to confirm the Windows Experience Index values are for those MacBook Pro users are seeing when running Windows 7. The Windows 7 Experience Index numbers include one for Processor speed, Memory (RAM) speed, Graphics speed, Gaming graphics speed, and Primary Disk speed.

Hi - I connected my superdrive but it does not seem to be working - now all I get is a black screen with the prompt - no bootable device; insert boot disk and press any key.
Any thoughts on this? I put an ISO image on my desktop and also created an image on a USB drive - however it has encryption software on it which did not get overwritten so Im not sure if this is why that won't boot.
Does anyone know if the Superdrive can't be used?
My macbook is 3 weeks old - it is all the latest and greatest stuff...

DO I need Anti-Virus for my Macbook Pro w/Retina Display?

I am currently awaiting a MacBook Pro w/Retina Display and I am having an ongoing discussion with some work colleagues, since the Flashback Trojan appeared to infiltrate Mac's back in early 2012... DO I need Anti-Virus.. My argument is no, but everybody elses is yes!
I would love to see some indepth feedback to send my PC lovers running!
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Joe

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "archive extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software are likely to be infected.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
5. Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is a weak point in the security of any operating system. If a Java web plugin is not installed, don't install one unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, even supposing that they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. Windows malware attachments in email are almost always easy to recognize without computer assistance.
8. The greatest danger posed by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is its effect on human behavior. When people install such software, which does little or nothing to protect them from emerging threats, they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

My MacBook Pro won't go beyond a white screen, after I pushed the restart button. How can I get it to a login? I have routinely backed it up, but don't know how to bring that up, nor if I have a boot file on that external disk. Help!

My MacBook Pro won't go beyond a white screen, after I pushed the restart button. How can I get it to a login? I have routinely backed it up, but don't know how to bring that up, nor if I have a boot file on that external disk. Help!

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If a desktop Mac hangs at a plain gray screen with a movable cursor, the keyboard may not be recognized. Press and hold the button on the side of an Apple wireless keyboard to make it discoverable. If need be, replace or recharge the batteries. If you're using a USB keyboard connected to a hub, connect it to a built-in port.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

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