My Quad experience- noise, DVD, and so much more!
Just wanted to share my experiences so far... My Quad has arrived! Set up was very simple once I cleared the old Sawtooth out of the way. (I wasn't prepared since my ship date was supposed to be the end of December.) Anyway, so far, so good. Updates went well. I'm waiting on RAM and a second HD before I can really get to work.
As far as the noise issue, it is definitely louder than I expected. It is quieter than my 500 G4. The G4 was under the desk while I have the Quad on top of the desk, pretty close to my ears. But the fans constantly run and at higher revs than I expected. They do slow down after initial start-up, so it's no wind tunnel, and they don't rev up and down, they are steady, but I may move the Quad to the floor. I imagine if it's not right near my head (with the fans pointing straight at me) it may seem quieter. And it's just fan noise- on my G4, the fans were louder and they made the case vibrate and there was all kinds of noise. So really, I'm not complaining, right now the sound is acceptable to me. I've only put in about 4 hourse of use, we'll see what it's like once I get used to it and put in some more time on it.
I have yet to even use the DVD burner but I do have an embarrassing story. I've had Macs all my computing life. They're very intuitive to use. 99% of the time I have no need for the manual. (Which I assume Apples knows seeing the small manuals they include with their products.) I sat there for about 4 minutes trying to figure out how to open the DVD tray. I looked all over the tower, all over the desktop, all the menus, searched "help". I couldn't figure it out! There is no button on/near it! I thought maybe it was touch sensitive- that didn't work. I had to use the manual! I hadn't even looked on the keyboard! My G4 had the smaller keyboard, not the extended style. And as you all know, there it is, right on the keyboard, the open/eject button. I am so glad none of my friends (who think I'm the "Apple Expert") were there. I felt so dumb. Scheesh.
William
Quad. Mac OS X (10.4.3) Power Mac G4 (AGP graphics)
A nice box indeed -- had no idea these things
were so heavy.
As for first impressions ... well, let me preface
this by saying I have no idea if os x was
preinstalled or not. Since I never got an answer
regarding whether os x needed a fast boot
drive or whether the caching could be countered
with RAM, I picked up a raptor last night and
popped it straight in.
Now, I got the wireless keyboard/mouse combo. The
pamphlet for the combo says "put all the batteries
in and follow the steps in the g5 manual, you
will be prompted to assign your mouse/kbd to the
g5'. The g5 booklet says 'if you have a wireless
combo, follow the instructions there.'
This does not bode well
So, the first thing I notice is that, since the
kbd and mouse do not work until they are assigned,
and since apple sent only the wireless kbd and mouse,
there is no way to get the OS X dvd in.
Well, five minutes of playing with the drive door
and a paper clip later, it's in [note for the
guy who mentioned not being able to do this before:
slide the drive covering down with your fingers].
OK, os x is booting and everything looks nice in
the ol' aquos I'm using as a screen. I get a screen
indicating [no text] that I need to put batteries
in the mouse and turn it on. Well they're in, it's
on, the red light is going, in fact I'm scrolling
the **** thing across the bluetooth antenna ...
nothing. Eventually the screen goes way and I am left
with an unresponsive keyboard and mouse, with
a prompt to choose my language.
Pop open the desk, get the emergency usb kbd and
mouse I have in there for troublesome laptops,
and go through the install. Not being able to eject
without the paperclip maneuvar makes things
interesting, but it keeps me on my toes.
After that, everything seems to go OK. When the
files finish copying I'll reboot.
Definitely a nice machine, but they really need
to work on that wireless keyboard/mouse deal. After
this and the whole ordering/shipping debacle, every
one of my friends who extolls the ne'er-do-wrong
nature of apple owes me a pint. Or three.
--Mike
Similar Messages
-
Ive seen loads of people with this issue and no luck.
Basically as of yesterday, The message
This accessory is not optimized for this iPhone. You may experience noise interference and a decrease in cellular signal strength"
appeared and wont go away. I have nit used my headphones for a month so i cant think of anything that has triggered it.
Solutions I have tried..
Making sure my phone isnt on mute.
Letting the power dye and re charging.
plugging in head phones etc.
Still no luck.
Model is iPhone 3GS 16GB.My mum's phone had that message too. I googled it. Sometimes the connection becomes dirty due to dust, dirt, water or a combination of all three. It is recommended to clean out the connection using a clean, dry brush, like a paint brush.
It worked for her
I hope that this helps -
IBook G4 freezing, and nothing much more
I’m hoping for some creative help with a very troubling problem I’m having with my G4 iBook.
Bought in 2004, this 14-inch iBook is running Tiger (though it came with Panther) and has 768 MB of RAM, a 60 gig hard drive, and a 1.07 GHz processor. It has never caused me any problems and I have been able to run an impressive array of programs at the same time with only about a dozen full-scale crashes that I can recall.
About three weeks ago, the computer started to freeze repeatedly, particularly when hooked up to an external monitor or TV. I ran the Disk Utility, both from the computer and off the Mac Os install disk, though no problems were found. The freezing continued and became even more persistent. At that time, programs would become non-responsive, the clock would stop, but the mouse pointer could still be moved. Sometimes, a thin line of zebra stripes would appear at the top of the screen and the mouse pointer would not move. A small, multi-coloured line (about one pixel wide and barely the height of the top menu bar) developed on the screen and has remained since.
Luckily, I use the computer for work and sent it off to our company repairperson, who specializes in Macs. As always seems to be the way, he could find nothing wrong with the computer — it worked fine for him over the three days he tested it. He installed a fresh copy of Tiger, removed Norton Utilities, which often can often cause operating problems, according to him. (He did not remove any other programs.) He did a hardware diagnosis and found no problems. He sent it back to me.
When I got the computer back, at first it worked fine. The only problem was that a blue screen would appear and the computer would become unresponsive when I hooked it up on the fly to an external monitor. (The computer tech suggested I hook up the source before powering the computer on to avoid a crash, though this was unnecessary before).
I moved my preferences from the archived system folder to the new library folder. The freezing then returned. This time, much worse. Without going into detail at this point about the freezing, I can say that the freezing became so bad that I decided to do something drastic — wipe the hard drive and re-install Tiger completely, which I did. (I backed up all my documents and preferences on another hard drive, of course.) This seemed like a good thing to do, seeing as the problem may have been with one or more of my programs. I was getting some corrupted file messages before I wiped the hard drive.
Sadly, even after two reinstalls of Tiger, freezes are persistent. I have also reset the power management unit several times, along with resetting the Parameter RAM. I have also turned off hard disk spin down and the option that puts the computer to sleep (in the Energy Saver control panel) to avoid unnecessary sleeping. No luck — freezes continue.
At this point, the computer has a clean hard drive and fresh copy of Tiger, including all the software updates through the Apple menu. I do have a few basic programs installed, such as Microsoft Office, iPhoto and some small, free downloadable programs. There is about 41 gigs of free hard disk space.
Here are the freeze patterns:
- When the computer freezes, the seconds counter on the clock stops, all programs are unresponsive and no force quitting is possible. The pointer can still be moved by the mouse, but that is the only action the computer makes. The only way to reset the computer is to hold down the power button.
- Typically, if the computer is powered back on within less than five minutes, it boots up past the Apple symbol and spinning dial, then freezes on the blue screen.
- If I wait for about five minutes or more, the computer will almost always boot up normally.
- The computer seems particularly susceptible when peripheral devices are attached while running. For instance, it has crashed a few times while the computer was running as soon as — or shortly after — I inserted a USB key, a firewire cable (for a firewire transfer), or unplugged and re-plugged in the power adapter.
- It has also taken to freezing or crashing when audio or video is played — iTunes, DVD Player (especially) or Quicktime. It doesn’t always freeze or crash, but it more often does than does not. It has crashed a few times when Acquisition — a peer-to-peer file sharing program — was running. I am currently running the Internet through an Airport wireless connection.
- The computer was freezing consistently today after about 45 minutes operation, even with no programs running. I reset the Power Management Unit, Parameter RAM and disabled sleep and hard disk spin down, and it ran for two hours this evening (with no programs running and no network connected) and did not freeze. I intend to try a longer run overnight to see how it fairs.
Sorry for the long description. I just want to be very thorough with my explanation so potential problem solvers have enough to go on.
Hope you can help! I really appreciate it. I love this computer and am not quite ready (financially) to buy a new one.
- niallLuckily, I use the computer for work and sent it off to our company repairperson, who specializes in Macs. As always seems to be the way, he could find nothing wrong with the computer — it worked fine for him over the three days he tested it. He installed a fresh copy of Tiger, removed Norton Utilities, which often can often cause operating problems, according to him. (He did not remove any other programs.) He did a hardware diagnosis and found no problems. He sent it back to me.
This is the major sign of hope so far.
If the computer could run for 3 days and be functional enough to reinstall the OS, the logic board and HD can't be totally FUBAR.
Can your computer guy lend you a different power adapter?
Now, I'm guessing the computer guy didn't plug in peripherals while he was testing, so the problem may be with your ports. There could be a cracked solder joint, or the hot-plugging of your TV connection could have traumatized some electrical component inside the iBook.
You can't count on your OS at this point, because you have done some forced shutdowns. I'd recommend borrowing a new power adapter and seeing if Ubuntu can run your iBook for an extended period without freezing. Probably best not to go heavy on the multimedia test, since that could just as well be an Ubuntu bug.
Running Ubuntu with it's screen saver going for a day will be a pretty good test. Since Ubuntu loads into RAM, your system will get a thorough workout. Don't plug anything else in. I'm trying to reproduce the results that your computer guy got.
There's one other far-fetched possibility that would be good to check: could some of the outlets in your house be improperly wired? You can pick up an inexpensive outlet tester that will check to make sure the hot and neutral wires aren't reversed, and that the ground (earth) is properly grounded. You should check the proper wiring of all outlets that are involved with the computer, namely the TV's outlet, the monitor's outlet, and outlets that power any peripheral.
Again, this is a long shot, but it has been the answer for me in the past. -
We are trying to update and add new apps to an iTouch and we get an error saying "cannot connect with iTunes store." We have already reset our password.
Hello jaybearden,
Thanks for the question. After reviewing your post, it sounds like you are not able to restore the iOS device since you get an error 9. I would recommend that you read this article, it may be able to help the issue.
Resolve iOS update and restore errors - Apple Support
Check your security software
Related errors: 2, 4, 6, 9, 1000, 1611, 9006. Sometimes security software can prevent your device from communicating with either the Apple update server or with your device.
Check your security software and settings to make sure that they aren't preventing a connection to the Apple servers.
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Have a nice day,
Mario -
My iphone 4 started displaying a message box with the following message: "This accessory is not optimized for this phone. You may experience noise and loss of battery." My question is: Why is this happening and how do I fix it? (I'm losing battery power precipitously). Thanks in advance for any assistance with this question.
Thanks Kilted Tim, you solved the problem. I'm mightily impressed at the simplicity of the solution!
Jaded Kane -
how can i fix this accessory is not optimized for this iphone you may experience noise caused bycellular interference and a decrease in cellular single strenght error in my new iphone4
Hello abyjohn,
I would be concerned too if the speaker on my iPhone was not working, and if I was getting a message about the accessory not being optimized. I found an article with some steps to take when you are experiencing issues like this.
iPhone: Can't hear through the receiver or speaker
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1630
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Sheila M. -
Dual monitor setup experiences noise from sleep wake
I have a second monitor hooked up to my 27" iMac and it will experience noise when I wake my computer up from sleep periodically. I have reformatted my computer twice now for other reasons, but the problem still continues. I have to turn my second monitor off and then turn it back on again and it will work great. It is just really annoying to wake my computer from sleep and only one monitor is running, but the computer still thinks the other monitor is connected, windows that were still running are still on the other display till a turn off the second display or click gather windows from the display setting in OS X.
The noise on the second monitor looks like an old tv when you are not on a channel that has reception. Its like a bunch of black and white dots flashing around. We used to call them ants in the tv when I was younger.
Any help out there?Jared Blake:
I have the same problem, I think.
I used an external monitor with my previous iMac, no problem. In the past month or so I bought a new quad-core 27 inch iMac, and moved the external display to the new machine. Everything works normally, except that when I wake up the system, the external ViewSonic display is filled with "snow". Cycling power on the external monitor always restores it to correct operation.
The "snow" pattern looks very much like the old days of analog TV, before empty-channel "blanking" was developed and added. In essence, the TV was displaying random information.
This is the only case I can recall of seeing "snow" on a modern (i.e. digital monitor.) As far as I know modern monitors can detect that no valid signal is coming in, and in such cases, they display a blank screen and possibly a message saying something like, "no signal".
So, I'm guessing that our iMacs for some reason are not detecting the second display on wake-up and are not sending any signal to it.
It's strange that the monitor's themselves don't react better to this situation.
hen3ry -
Workflow help needed VCR to DVD and HDD via Canopus AVCD110
I think that some of this subject has been addressed in previous posts. This is a new area for me and I am not sure that my configuration has been addressed previously so I am seeking help.
I have already transfered some home movies from VCR to iMovie 09 using the Canopus. I have not edited any of it at this stage.
Some of the tape is old and deteriorated. This shows on the IM09 clips as horizontal static across the frames. Someone suggested that I use a Video Enhancer (hardware costing around $100)between the VCR and the Canopus to lift quality. I have also found on the web a software solution (Video Converter) which claims to also enhance quality and de-noise. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations on either of these as a means of lifting the video quality?
The next issue surrounds the use of MPEG Streamclip. I have gathered from other posts the necessity of using this program to convert the captured DV files to AIC to ensure the finished quality before editing and sending to Toast or iDVD. I am interested in any feedback on this process?
Finally, I would like to be able to view the finished product on a WD TV Live and have another copy on DVD. Given that I have Toast 10 what is the best way of completing these tasks?
I haven't taken the leap to a BluRay burner yet but I am thinking about it.I understand that it is better for archiving than DVD and the capacity would suit the quantity of video I have.
Any and all feedback and recommendations on the (complete) workflow would be appreciated?I think that some of this subject has been addressed in previous posts. This is a new area for me and I am not sure that my configuration has been addressed previously so I am seeking help.
I have already transfered some home movies from VCR to iMovie 09 using the Canopus. I have not edited any of it at this stage.
Some of the tape is old and deteriorated. This shows on the IM09 clips as horizontal static across the frames. Someone suggested that I use a Video Enhancer (hardware costing around $100)between the VCR and the Canopus to lift quality. I have also found on the web a software solution (Video Converter) which claims to also enhance quality and de-noise. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations on either of these as a means of lifting the video quality?
The next issue surrounds the use of MPEG Streamclip. I have gathered from other posts the necessity of using this program to convert the captured DV files to AIC to ensure the finished quality before editing and sending to Toast or iDVD. I am interested in any feedback on this process?
Finally, I would like to be able to view the finished product on a WD TV Live and have another copy on DVD. Given that I have Toast 10 what is the best way of completing these tasks?
I haven't taken the leap to a BluRay burner yet but I am thinking about it.I understand that it is better for archiving than DVD and the capacity would suit the quantity of video I have.
Any and all feedback and recommendations on the (complete) workflow would be appreciated? -
I just finished creating a movie using IMovie and want to burn it to a DVD and loop it. Since I just purchased this mac it looks like they no longer include IDVD. Is there something out there to help me do this. I am new to MAC and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
There is free open source software called Burn that will burn DVDs. Here is a link.
If you wish to pay for software, there are many, including TOAST TITANIUM from Roxio. Apple's retail copy of iLife 11, and Apple's Compressor.
Of these, I would say that iDVD is known for being able to create very professional looking DVDs with intros, menus, lots of interesting templates.
Toast is much simpler and the menus and templates are more plain.
Compressor is a professional tool that does a lot more than make DVDs. Don't expect much in the way of menus or templates.
Burn, I have never tried, since I have iDVD and Toast for those ocasions when I need to burn a DVD. However, since it is free, I think it is worth a try.
Each software package is a little different, but in general, in iMovie, you can use the SHARE menu to SHARE/MOVIE in Large size. Save the movie to your desktop or someplace you can easily find it. Then drag it into the tool of your choice. You can alsouse SHARE/MEDIA BROWSER/LARGE if you have iDVD or Toast. -
Running a mid 2009 iMac on 10.7.5, 3 gb memory, 320 gb hd.
Suddenly the computer stoped reading DVDs and the only time I can read a CD is if I restart. Quite often when I insert a CD it gets stuck and I cannot get it out until I restart and it shows up on the desktop where I can then eject it.
I have checked and double checked the finder prefs and all looks normal showing a check mark on CDs,DVDs etc. (the ones I want to show up on the desktop)
I have reset the PEAM, repaired permissions with both the disk utility on the computer and the disk utility when I start up in the Recovery Disk. I did notice that sometimes the permission repeat the same correction several times before it moves on, and sometimes it doesn’t. I have Windows installed on a partition but I keep it unmounted until it is needed for my wife’s work. The dock seems to be just fine and all the apps seems to run just fine. When I insert a photo CD iPhoto does not open but when I insert a music CD iTunes does open.
Also, most every time I open iPhoto it takes a long time(sometimes as long as 2 minutes) for it to load.
Sometimes my Mail (Mail 5.3) does not post new mail but most of the time it does.
Once and a while it seems like the computer slows way down but then it seems ok ten minutes later.
All of these ‘things’ seemed to have happen suddenly and I have not downloaded anything from the internet in some time.
Of course the warranty and extended warranty are both no longer in effect having had this computer for more than three years.
I am running Java and Adobe Player because some of the sites I go to a lot require both.I believe that insufficient RAM may be the source of some of your problems. If you have a RAM of somewhere 4 to 8GB, you will experience smoother computing. 3GB doesn't seem right, so you might want to learn more by going to this site:
http://www.crucial.com/store/drammemory.aspx
I don't know what know what's happening with your optical drive, but it seems you use your drive quite a bit. In that case, look into a lens cleaner for your machine. It's inexpensive, works quite well.
I hope you'll post here with your results! -
Question about Noise Margin and Line Attenuation a...
1. For several years I have had a BT telephone line. From the utilities provided by http://www.kitz.co.uk/adsl I find that I am connected to the Exchange at Merton Park (BT Code: LSMEPK) Distance:- Direct: 960 metres (appx)* By Road: 1.29 km. Exchange Status ADSL enabled: March 30, 2000 DSL Max enabled: March 30, 2006 SDSL enabled : Enabled 21CN due : (PSTN) N/A 21CN WBC (Broadband) Enabled 15.02.09
2. I previously had broadband from UKOnline and used a Speedtouch 570 adsl modem. I was paying £9.99 for a speed of 1MBit/s – in practice 700K – which was fine for most purposes but BBC iplayer did struggle a bit. UkOnline has been taken over by SKY so I switched to BT Total Broadband Option 3 in mid December, and initially used the Speedtouch 570 as there were delivery delays on BT Home Hub 2.0 due to weather conditions. Speed was initially very good but did not measure it.
3. After Xmas I set up the BT Home Hub and ran a speed test - the profile was 2.5MBit/s. I was disappointed to get less than 3Mbit/s which is needed for BBC iplayer HD.
ADSL line status
Connection information
Line state Connected
Connection time 0 days, 2:26:57 ------> 6th January 2011
Downstream 2,268 Kbps
Upstream 440 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI 0/38
Type PPPoA
Modulation ITU-T G.992.5 ---à this apparently means ADSL2+
Latency type Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up) 15.7 dB / 31.9 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up) 27.0 dB / 9.7 dB
Output power (Down/Up) 0.0 dBm / 12.7 dBm
Loss of Framing (Local) 22
Loss of Signal (Local) 3
Loss of Power (Local) 0
FEC Errors (Down/Up) 6512 / 0
CRC Errors (Down/Up) 0 / 2147480000
HEC Errors (Down/Up) nil / 0
Error Seconds (Local) 2
4. As part of the “slow speed wizard” I looked into getting the accelerator plate for my NTE5 split face master socket available for postage only (£1.20) but the web form advised me that if I proceeded with this order the broadband contract would automatically be extended by 12 months. I checked my BT internet account and was surprised to find an email (23rd Dec 2010) advising me that as an Option *1* customer I was in danger of exceeding my usage allowance – which surprised me as I am definitely Option 3. I wondered if I had had the speed throttled. Therefore phoned BT accounts who said the email was a mistake - I am Option 3, also said that accelerator plate was unlikely to make a difference.
5. I contacted the BT call centre who talked me through various options. Plugging the hub direct into the master socket made no difference. They also ran a line test and said the line was fine.
6. I therefore browsed the community care forum and find that disappointing speeds are not uncommon. One of the threads mentioned disconnecting the bell wire on the extensions. I follow this advice and removed line 3 on all extensions and then checked the ADSL status on the hub.
ADSL line status
Connection information
Line state Connected
Connection time 0 days, 6:33:45 10th January 2011
Downstream 2,272 Kbps
Upstream 888 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI 0/38
Type PPPoA
Modulation ITU-T G.992.5
Latency type Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up) 31.8 dB / 14.4 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up) 27.0 dB / 9.7 dB
Output power (Down/Up) 0.0 dBm / 12.3 dBm
Loss of Framing (Local) 0
Loss of Signal (Local) 0
Loss of Power (Local) 0
FEC Errors (Down/Up) 0 / 0
CRC Errors (Down/Up) 0 / 2147480000
HEC Errors (Down/Up) nil / 0
Error Seconds (Local) 0
7. This had a dramatic improvement on Upstream speed – and a big change to the noise margin Noise margin which had been (Down/Up) 15.7 dB / 31.9 dB and is now Noise margin (Down/Up) 31.8 dB / 14.4 dB. It did not improve the download speed.
8. In the following days the BT hub has not been particularly stable with some intermittent loss of wireless connectivity every few hours. Examining the event log I was a bit disconcerted to see alterations to firewall settings had happened (which I hadn’t made) and resets which I am pretty certain I hadn’t made – and a userid login with a name like TR69. Perhaps these are occasioned by the BT speedtester? To be fair I had reset and powered off the hub a number of times in attempt to sort out this problems.
9. I have switched to a Netgear DG83GT (V1.03.23) for the time being until I have what I can regard as a reasonably fast stabile connection. At the time of writing this has been stable for 20 hours DownStream Connection Speed 2268 kbps UpStream Connection Speed 888 kbps.As stated earlier I would like downstream to be faster.
The perceived wisdom on the forum seems to be that several days of complete stability are required if there is to be any improvement on speed.
10. If a moderator or anyone with the relevant experience reads this I would be very grateful for answers to the follow questions:
A. Is the change in the Noise Margin parameter a good thing or a bad thing?
B. Are the line attenuation figures acceptable for a distance of under 1.5kilometres to the exchange?
C. Should I be able in theory to get a faster speed i.e. downstream 3Mbit/s?
D. From the forum it seems to take several days for speed adjustments to be effected or to take effect – is this a technical issue or a policy issue?
Many thanks.
Robert
Solved!
Go to Solution.Good Morning - it is now 6 days since this posting. During this time there have been 2 resets of the adsl line
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:43 - LCP down.
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - Initialize LCP.
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - LCP is allowed to come up.
Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - CHAP authentication success
and
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:26 - LCP down.
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - Initialize LCP.
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - LCP is allowed to come up.
Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - CHAP authentication success
These were not initiated by me - and since noise margins and sync speeds changed as a consequence can I assume that this is evidence of the adaptive process working?
Secondly, as you can see, the noise ratio has vastly improved as have the upstream and downstream sync speeds
System Up Time 157:54:52
ADSL Link Downstream Upstream
Connection Speed 11199 kbps 1091 kbps
Line Attenuation 27.0 db 9.9 db
Noise Margin 14.8 db 9.2 db
BUT from the BT speedtester, as shown below I seem to be stuck in a banded IP profile of 1750/1091 which is very different from the downstream sync speeds of 11199 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM)
Can BT staff take action to alter this? If they can how do I contact them?
Regards,
Robert
18th Jan 2010
Download Speed 1288 Kbps
0 Kbps 2000 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 1288 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speedsis 800-2000 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :11199 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 1091 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 1750 Kbps
The throughput of Best Efforts (BE) classes achieved during the test is - 2.28:10.77:87.0 (SBE:NBEBE)
These figures represent the ratio while sententiously passing Sub BE, Normal BE and Priority BE marked traffic.
The results of this test will vary depending on the way your ISP has decided to use these traffic classes.
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed 896 Kbps
0 Kbps 1091 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
>Upload speed achieved during the test was - 896 Kbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 1091 Kbps -
I have a 16GB 3GS phone since about20 months now. For the last few days, my phone is constantly giving me message that the accessory attached to my phone is not optimized for this iphone. You may experience noise or poor communication, while there is no acessory attached to it. I always used standard headphones and charging cable. Now when i recall, it started at one of the sync sessions with my itunes. I have turned my phone off and aon again and again but the message keeps coming every one or two minutes.I have also started loosing voicce on different applications like youtube etc. Also the ringer volume up and down key does not show me the small boxes increasing or decreasing on screen. The phone is playing crazy. Can someone help please
Thanks
ZiaIt helped earlier but it has come back again. I don't know what to do. I tried what you said earlier but this time even this is not working either. And quite intrestingly my phone won't turn off. I turn it off, it goes off and then restarts on its own and then keep giving the same message again and again.
Could it be a charging cable, is there any chance that the cable which was working fine one day could turn to be "incompatible" with iphone the other day????????
Please help -
Blank DVDs and CD-Rs No Longer Appear
Since installing the latest security update for 10.3.9 on my 1.8 Dual Processor PowerMac (yes, I repaired permissions immediately before and after installing the update) blank recordable media no longer appear in Finder or on the Desktop. I am able to use iTunes and apps with the ability to burn to record some things and the discs behave normally, but I can no longer insert a blank disc and copy folders or files to it to burn because it does not appear anywhere on the system. Named blank discs do not come up when I use Search either. These are the same batch of discs I have been using for months with 100% success (Imation brand of DVD-R and +Rs), and like I said, they work fine through certain apps that have a burn function. Seems like a Finder issue to me. Any thoughts?
When I insert a blank it get this error in Console:
Apr 25 11:35:57 ####-####-Computer kernel: disk4: media is not formatted.
My optical drive is a SONY DVD RW DW-U10A
Here is a list of what I have done in an attempt to resolve the issue:
-repaired permissions
-in System Preferences set the action to open Finder when blank discs are inserted (tried changing settings and restarting)
-used Onyx to clean system and app caches
-put machine to sleep and woke it (read somewhere this might do it)
-trashed the finder.plist file
-used Panther install disc to verify and repair the Volume (says all's good)
-downloaded the update again and reinstalled
My three external firewire drives all show up as usual, and USB CF cards mount normally. Recorded DVDs and CD-Rs appear normally.
In Disk Utility I see the disc icon with the name of the optical drive when there is a blank disc in the drive, but it says under Total Capacity: 0Bytes, and under Write Ability: Read Only (CD-R).
Any thoughts or ideas on what I could try will be greatly appreciated! I really need to burn some backups!
Thanks very much,
Kevan
15 1Ghz TiBook 1GB RAM: Dual Processor 1.8Ghz PowerMac G5 w/ additional 300GB Maxtor Drive Internal Mac OS X (10.3.9) 160GB and 300GB externals; 10GB, 40GB, 60GB iPods
15 1Ghz TiBook 1GB RAM: Dual Processor 1.8Ghz PowerMac G5 w/ additional 300GB Maxtor Drive Internal Mac OS X (10.3.9) 160GB and 300GB externals; 10GB, 40GB, 60GB iPodsAlright! I have it fixed using a little deductive reasoning and a post by Roam on another thread. Thanks roam!
Resetting Launch Services did it. Here's a link on how to do it:
http://www.thexlab.com/faqs/resetlaunchservices.html#Anchor-Reset-11481 -
IDVD problem burning and multiplexing - gets stuck but ejects the DVD and the DVD doesn't play
I am having trouble burning DVDs. Everything seems to be working fine during the iDVD project creation. I can watch the movie and select scenes within iDVD. Then, when I go to burn the DVD, it gets stuck at the burning/multiplexing stage - the wheel just keeps spinning and says there is about a minute left. Yet it ejects the DVD and the DVD won't play when inserted into a DVD player. It will show the intro and the scene selection pages but when you click on one of the scenes, it gets stuck and doesn't play. I have already uninstalled and reinstalled iDVD. The problem persists. It seems like the burner itself is the problem. What can I do to fix it? I have Mac OS X Version 10.6.8 with a 2.8 GHzintel Core 2 Duo and iDVD version 7.0.4.
Hi
Multiplexing error is a very complex problem due to many things (long long list following) - one common but not obvious reason is that material on the iDVD menu goes outside the TV-Safe area (or just touching it).
So first - turn on TV-Safe area and move any object well inside of this.
Wide screen stretched - usually (as I think) it is due to making a 4x3 movie in a 16x9 wide-screen project OR the other way around. This forces one to on flat-screen TV (or other) set the presenting view right - My has 4x3, wide-screen, zoom and auto-wide-screen and I have to switch this by my remote for some DVD I've made "wrong" way.
Now my long long list on Multiplex Error
LONG LONG LONG LIST
Multiplexing Error
PART One.
Use of strange video/audio material e.g. .avi, .wmv, .mp3 etc.
I only use.
Video - StreamingDV (miniDV tape via FireWire) and
Audio - .aiff (as on audio-CDs) (else converted to this .aiff 48KHz)
Photo - .jpg (.bmp known problematic)
Chapters !
A. Using strange letters in video project name e.g. +,/; etc. keep to a-z and 0-9 strange letters in project name e.g. +
as described by Donnyboy69. Does the title of your project have any symbols or decimal points in it. If so, that is why you are getting the error. I had a project that had a + sign which caused the same problem. I renamed it without the symbol and low and behold, it worked.
B. Location of Chapters
• Can’t be at start or end of movie (Skip first/start one - iDVD sets this by it self. At the End - no need)
• Not in a transition (or within 2-3 seconds from it)
Important when from iMovie HD6 or previous - Now also observed when using FCE 4
PART Two.
from Robert Modero.
"Multiplexing Error. Problem during initialization of tracks"
Simply remember to add subtitles to your Quicktime files and menu buttons.
Once I did that, I was back in business.
from Boise Jim
Do a safe reboot (by holding down the shift key until you see the spinning gear on gray background, then release, then restart when your start-up screen appears).
I always makes a DiskImage first and test this so that it runs OK
I use only - Verbatim DVDs
I use only - DVD-R
I burn at an as slow speed possibly e.g. x1
This gives good DVDs
PART Three.
Multiplex Error
Chuck, Chicago 2/7/2009.
Back again. Here is what I have found to work. I also have and use a LaCie DVD-R/RW DL external drive and a LaCie external hard drive as well. Since yesterday I have tried a few ways to burn a themed iDVD project having four 56 minute movies on it, amounting to 226 minutes onto a DVD DL disc, capacity 240 minutes. Apple tech support really didn't know what to do but gave me a very good tip. I had two options left. Apple tech support's tip was to try disc image. One of the replies on a thread with this subject said not to, but my experience today is good. Put your project onto "Burn to disc image," under "iDVD, file." Yesterday encoding took me 23 1/2 hours. Overnight for iDVD disc image, encoding took 21 1/2 hours (again) while I slept. This morning I tried to copy/burn disc image to a DVD with Roxio Toast 7, and it stopped near the end of the burn with some kind of "error" message. So then I tried Utilities> Disc Utility> Burn icon, and followed it through. Be sure to click the DVD DL drive in the window "Burn disc in.". I had one other problem though. At the end of a 46 minute copy, it started to verify, and at the end of verify it rejected the burn. So I tried again, and when "verify" appeared, I clicked on "Skip." The disc finished burning and is doing fine and well. A long and tortuous process, but at last something works. I made several additional copies using Disc Utility. Best wishes. Chuck, Chicago.
2. Disconnect any other external devices not absolutely needed.
e.g. external USB/USB2 hard disks, other FW hard disks etc.
3 Chapter marks in transitions - minimum 2 sec from
FROM Bev.
(Not a 'guy' but I will answer!)
First, I do not think that mixing wide-screen and standard makes a difference in iDVD.
Second, you should use a better brand of DVD disk. Also, many of us have experienced fewer problems on playback with DVD-R disks. Recommended brands here are Verbatim, Maxell and Taiyo Yuden. Memorex and TDK are not consistent and may not give you a correct burn. They apparently have fewer layers in the composition of the disk. I have always used Verbatim DVD-R disks and have not had any burn problems.
Also, choose a slower burn speed, 4x or less.
Third, to determine if the iDVD project will burn properly, create a disk image file (from within iDVD, go File->Save as Disk Image) and test it. Mount the disk image and then open DVD Player (in Applications) and view your project. If it plays correctly, you can then burn the actual DVD disk from the disk image file using Disk Utility.
From. Boise, Idaho
I did everything I've seen suggested, but a friend (who used to be an Apple Genius) suggested that I do a safe reboot (by holding down the shift key until you see the spinning gear on gray background, then release, then restart when your start-up screen appears).
It worked, and I got a clean burn from iDVD.
Hopefully this can help other people.
by dheb0422
Well, I finally got it, and it was odd enough to post here incase anyone looks this topic up again. Many things were tried, including burning the unedited film, the edited film without titles and chapter markers, abbreviating the chapter markers in case length was the issue (remember the old iMovie used to truncate them when moving to iDVD?). In the process, I noticed that one, and only one, chapter marker was on the same line as the title marker. All the others were on the line above. The only way I seemed able to change that was to clip a few seconds of film. After that last clip, the offending marker took a place on the line above, as were all the others. That run published, compiled completely and burned. That's one for the books.
One user more writes
To add my experience with Multiplex Errors using iDVD (7.0.4), I recently created two iDVD projects
Video from both passed from FCE 4.01 with chapters
One project worked fine in creating disk image file
The other gave Multiplex Errors
I tried suggestions to remove special characters and no chapter marks at beginning, but nothing worked
Note that I've used iDVD for dozens of projects and this is first time I've run into Multiplex Errors
Anyway, for problem project, I tried an experiment where I removed all chapters in FCE and passed to new iDVD project
This time multiplex errors gone
So had something to do with chapters
So now I tried numerous experiments to remove individual chapters and try again creating disk image with new iDVD project
After numerous tries, I was able to narrow problem down to 1 "Bad" chapter mark
That is, when I left the "bad" chapter in my FCE project and passed to iDVD, iDVD gave multiplex error
When I removed "bad" chapter mark (and others in), no multiplex error
As a final experiment, I moved "bad" chapter mark about 5-10 sec's beyond original point and passed to iDVD, the multiplex errors now magically went away and I was able to finally create my disk image.
I have no idea why this worked, but thought I'd mention here in case someone else runs into similar problem.
Rich839
In addition to Bengt's fine advice, burning errors can occur if you have located any of your menu buttons wholly or partly outside of the safe TV viewing area. Go to your main project menu, then click on View/Show TV Safe Area, to check. Drag into the safe viewing area any buttons that are outside the safe viewing area.
Russ One - suggest this
Multiplex Error-There was an error during muxing preparation
One thing that worked for me was to export the video w/o chapter markers as a self contained movie (thereby not loosing the edits & etc). Then make a new FCE project and import that movie into a new sequence and add the chapter markers. I've used "-", "&" and "," with no problem in the chapter names. Removing the markers or exporting without them did solve the problem but renaming them with just numbers 1,2,3....5, did not solve the problem and since this problem seems to happen with with iMovie as well, it would suggest the problem is in the video or audio and in combination with the chapter markers iDVD just can't handle it. The only other possibility is that both iMovie and FCE share the same or similar chapter marker code that some how is corrupting the markers.
Summary - What to try
1. Chapters
• Only A to Z and 0 to 9 in chapter title
• No Chapter mark at very beginning of movie
• No Chapter mark in or within 2 seconds from any transition in movie
2. TV-safe area for buttons (no one outside this)
3. Safe re-boot
4. No other external devices connected - that are not needed
SDMacuser adds to this
• On #4 ... No ext. devices. Some think this applies mainly to ext. FW. Not the case. Also applies to ext. USB2 as well (not to mention flash drives too).
Do not leave 3rd party devices / camera / camcorder plugged in unless it is being used with iDvd's One Step process. Certain web cams can trigger this also (especially ones with added features like LED light/s that draw additional power from the FW or USB bus).
5. Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-up hard disk
6. Make a DiskImage first - reduces where problem originates
7. Trash iDVD pref. file
8. Make a new iDVD project
9. Movies in project with same aspect ratio e.g. 4x3 or 16x9
10. No other programs/applications running during iDVD process. e.g. Internet, screen & energy savers
Yours Bengt W -
Blank DVD and CD not showing up in Finder or anywhere
My blank dvd and cd are not showing up in Finder. I checked my preference and deleted from my library com.apple.finder.plist. All to no avail. I have the new upgraded Lion.
AppleHoop wrote:
When I open the Disk Utility I see SuperDrive but I can't burn nor eject the disk. The only way I can eject the DVD is to restart my computer.
Do other blank discs appear normally?
Do other commercially manufactured discs (software, movies) show up normally?
Those questions are to help narrow down exactly what the problem is.
AppleHoop wrote:
I have no idea what it means to "zap the PRAM" and Reset the SMC"
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