NF750-G55 - Need help choosing aftermarket CPU heatsink

I am running a Phenom II 965 CPU and the factory heatsink/fan is no good. The fan is too loud. I noticed that the northbridge heatsink on this motherboard is REALLY close to the CPU heatsink bracket. Does anyone know which aftermarket CPU cooler will fit and will keep my X4 965 CPU cooler than the stock heatsink?
Thanks all.

I use Noctua NH-C12P, its 6 heatpipes hover right above the mosfet heatsink nicely (the long one behind the ports). It blows air down to the motherboard, cooling some components, give airflow to the memory slots, and the fins directs air towards the northbridge. It helps cool down the northbridge as well (which is normally very hot). I also put Thermalright HR-05/IFX on the northbridge for extra cooling effect. The thermalright is a bit tight fit, but it works. The fan that came with the Noctua is totally silent no audible sound at all. Everything cool and quiet. I used Scythe Katana before this and it already worked well but it did not help northbridge cooling.
Some problem with it is that it partially covers the memory slots close to the processor, and it requires specific mounting.

Similar Messages

I need help choosing a new MBP (previous one was stolen)

Hello everyone, I need help choosing my next macbook pro because my previous one (15" Core i7 high res anitglare screen) was stolen . As you probably tell I spent a lot of money on my previous one and now I am a broke college student that doesn't have $2,400 to drop on a replacement.
So this is where you come in... because of budget reasons I have been looking at the 13 inch macbook pro but I just cannot bring myself to spend $1200 on a laptop with old technology (Core 2 duo processor) not to mention it is only 2.4ghz. I am not really sure what to ask about it I think i just need some good stats or other convincing information to allow me to buy it.
I know about the student discount and the refurb. macs, are there any other reliable ways to get a less expensive MBP?
I am a converted PC user and I LOVE macs, please don't let my budget make me revert back to a PC...

Like you’ve already said refurb is a good option.
I know it’s a bit late now but let me point you in the direction of Prey Project.
Prey Project is an open source program I use on my MacBook Pro, it’s a program that can track your computer and phones if stolen using GPS / Google Maps etc to give you location of it.
It will also take pictures of who is in front of it, log what they are doing etc.
Check it out here http://preyproject.com/ this such an amazing program that is free to use, will work on Apple, Windows, Linux and Android phones.

Need help choosing optimal hardware for a laptop that will run AE CS5

BACKGROUND INFO (Questions listed below)
I need some help figuring out the best hardware configuration for a new laptop. I’m a student at a design school and I will be using the laptop to mainly run After Effects and to a lesser extent Photoshop and Illustrator. I don’t need to worry about 3D rendering software or Premier Pro. I am primarily interested in getting the best performance during editing. I am not looking for the best performance for final output. I would prefer to sacrifice final output times for better editing/interface performance.
I will be working with standard definition content and perhaps HD up to 720p on occasion. I do not need to operate in resolutions higher than 720p. My projects are generally animation and use many sources and many layers.
I’ve been reading up on optimal hardware configurations for CS5 but my understanding is still a little foggy and I would like to use this thread to figure out how to build the best machine for my budget. The budget is about $1400 to $1600 CANADIAN after tax.
I DON’T need help finding the laptop. I will search for it on my own. I just need to understand the best hardware to purchase within my budget.
I realize that it is probably impossible to buy the laptop I want with the hardware configuration I need “off the shelf”. Instead I will be looking for a good base model (~$900-$1100) and I will purchase the necessary hardware upgrades separately. I will not be purchasing a Mac.
Right now I’m thinking of a machine built something like this:
- 15”-16” screen (17” models are too big/heavy)
- Mid to high end i5 processor OR entry level i7 quad core
- 8GB RAM (I would go to 12GB, but it’s hard to find a 15”-16” laptop with 3 memory slots)
- SSD to replace HDD (However, if possible, I would like a laptop with dual HDD support or swap the optical drive for another HDD. If I had access to 2 drives, I would have and HDD/SSD combo).
- Medium/high end NVIDIA GPU to take advantage of OpenGL while editing.
QUESTIONS
1) Does the “Render Multiple Frames Simultaneously” option enhance general editing performance (applying filters, scrubbing through the timeline, reverting history states)? Or does it ONLY help speed up RAM previews and final output? Does it reduce the length of RAM previews?
1b) Is this option even necessary to enable on 64bit systems? (As far as I understand it was used to solve a problem where 32bit systems/software would only recognize 4GB of RAM per instance of AE).
1c) If I turn this option on to help with RAM previews, would I be hindering general editing performance in any way? Or does this option have basically zero drawbacks?
2) How come “Actual CPUs that will be used” will read 0 even if the sum total of RAM assigned to the CPUs plus the RAM reserved for other applications is less than the total available system RAM (on a 64bit system)? For example, I currently have 4GB RAM and 2 installed CPUs. I have 1.5GB reserved for other programs and when I set 0.75GB per CPU both CPUs are used. However when I set 1GB per CPU then 0 CPUs are used, even though the total RAM adds up to only 3.5GB.
CPU
3.) Considering the fact that I am more concerned with smooth performance while editing rather than final output speeds, would it be better to get a dual core i5 clocked around 2.5 or a quad core i7 clocked around 1.8?
4.) What is the difference between an i3 and an i5 processor even if they are clocked at the same speed? How does an i5 460M compare on the grand scheme of things?
RAM
6.) Should the quantity of RAM that I get (8GB vs 12GB) be based on the number of cores in my CPU? If so, how should I be calculating optimal RAM based on # of cores. Should I also be counting threads, or just actual physical cores?
STORAGE/SWAP
7.) Should I replace the HDD with an SSD? I'm looking for snappy interface performance while editing. I would think that if the RAM fills up it would be best to have the SSD for scratch/cache.
8.) What performance benchmarks are most important when considering an SSD for After Effects? (4k writes? IOs per second? Max read/write?)
9.) I can afford the OCZ Vertex2 120GB SSD. Would this be a good choice if an SSD is recommended?
10.) Would it be better to have 8GB of RAM and an SSD, or 12GB of RAM and an HDD? Explain why.
GPU
10.) After Effects utilizes OpenGL to enhance editing performance. I will not really be using Premier Pro, so catering to the CUDA Mercury Engine is not a concern. Do high end gaming cards provide significant gains in OpenGL performance? Or do OpenGL performance gains taper off around the mid-range GPUs? (i.e. can you justify buying a high end GTX 260M graphics card for enhanced editing performance versus an "entry level" dedicated card like the 310M?)
11.) What hardware specs are most important when considering a GPU for editing performance in AE? (Memory size? # of Pixel shaders? Core speed? Shader speed?)
Thanks so much for any answers you can offer to these questions.

Please make sure that you've read through this page and what it points to.
> 1) Does the “Render Multiple Frames Simultaneously” option
enhance general editing performance (applying filters, scrubbing through
the timeline, reverting history states)? Or does it ONLY help speed up
RAM previews and final output? Does it reduce the length of RAM
previews?
It only increases rendering speed for RAM previews and rendering for final output. In After Effects CS5, it doesn't decrease the length of RAM previews. (In CS4, it does.)
1b) Is this option even necessary to enable on 64bit
systems? (As far as I understand it was used to solve a problem where
32bit systems/software would only recognize 4GB of RAM per instance of
AE).
You misunderstood. Yes, it's still relevant on 64-bit computers. Moreso, in a way. (I'd rather not spend my entire Sunday writing out detailed answers to satisfy idle curiosity, so I'm not going to give all the technical detail to that answer.)
> 1c) If I turn this option on to help with RAM previews,
would I be hindering general editing performance in any way? Or does
this option have basically zero drawbacks?
It takes a small but nonzero time for the background processes to start up when they need to be used and shut down when they're done. And as they sit waiting, they take up a little bit of memory. So, it's not exactly correct to say that there are no downsides to leaving it on. But it's close. I leave it on.
> 2) How come “Actual CPUs that will be used” will read 0 even
if the sum total of RAM assigned to the CPUs plus the RAM reserved for
other applications is less than the total available system RAM (on a
64bit system)? For example, I currently have 4GB RAM and 2 installed
CPUs. I have 1.5GB reserved for other programs and when I set 0.75GB per
CPU both CPUs are used. However when I set 1GB per CPU then 0 CPUs are
used, even though the total RAM adds up to only 3.5GB.
4GB - 1.5GB for other software leaves 2.5 GB for After Effects.
If you have 1GB assigned per background CPU, then the foreground takes 1.2x that = 1.2GB. That leaves 1.3GB for background processes, which is enough for one background process. There's no point in starting only one background process to do rendering, so it doesn't bother. (Note: When background processes are rendering, the foreground process isn't rendering.)
> 3.) Considering the fact that I am more concerned with
smooth performance while editing rather than final output speeds, would
it be better to get a dual core i5 clocked around 2.5 or a quad core i7
clocked around 1.8?
Get the quad-core. That gives you a greater total number of cycles. And After Effects works very well with mutliple processors, even beyond Render Multiple Frames Simultaneously multiprocessing. An entirely unrelated sort of multiprocessing (multithreading) spreads work out to multiple processors.
> 6.) Should the quantity of RAM that I get (8GB vs 12GB) be based on the number of cores in my CPU? If
so, how should I be calculating optimal RAM based on # of cores. Should
I also be counting threads, or just actual physical cores?
The optimum amount is the amount that you can cram into the computer. I'm not kidding. Spend your budget on RAM until you have 4GB installed per processor (and I'm counting the virtual processors due to hyperthreading). If you have a quad-core, that's 8 CPUs with hyperthreading, so the optimum amount of RAM installed is 32GB. You can work with less, but you did ask about optimum. For HD work (i.e., 1920 pixels across), you're OK with more like 3GB installed per CPU. That's what I have at home: 24GB in a quad-core. You're going to assign 2/3 or so of the RAM to After Effects, so 3GB installed per CPU is 2GB per core for HD work in After Effects.
> 10.) Would it be better to have 8GB of RAM and an SSD, or 12GB of RAM and an HDD? Explain why.
12GB of RAM. Because After Effects likes RAM. (If you're thinking of deliberatly using virtual memory to swap memory to the hard disk, don't. That's a performance killer.)
> 10.) After Effects utilizes OpenGL to enhance editing performance.
Not really. If you're on a limited budget, don't even think about the GPU until you've already got the most RAM, the fastest CPUs, the largest number of CPUs, two fast hard disks, and a couple of good monitors. Then, and only then, should you even consider getting soemthing beyond a non-stock graphics card. Yes, OpenGL can be used to accelerate some things, but that's only for the low-fidelity preview renderer. (Pardon the bluntness, but I want to make sure that you heed this.)

Need help choosing processor and display for X240 please

I'm about to purchase an X240 today or tomorrow and, after doing multiple forum searches and reading a 67-page X240 thread elsewhere, I would really appreciate some help choosing a processor and a display. If it makes a difference, I've decided on:
*Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
*8GB of RAM
*256GB SSD
I intend to use the laptop for viewing/editing Word documents and Powerpoint presentations, streaming movies, and streaming recorded lectures. I'm not sure what lecture viewer/player my school uses yet, but I do know that it has options to play the lectures at accelerated speeds (1.5x, 2x, etc.) and that I will definitely need to use this feature. I'm not computer literate enough to discern whether the processor type has any effect on this. I will use an external drive if I need to download and save any lectures. I also plan to do some infrequent and basic photo editing with Windows Photo Gallery and MS Paint. I'm willing to pay extra for a smoother/faster experience, but I don't want to go with the i7 processor if it's overkill for my purposes or if there are other significant trade-offs besides price.
As for display, I'm torn between the regular HD (1366x768) IPS Non-touch, regular HD IPS Touch, and FHD IPS Touch. Re: HD vs FHD, I've been using a 1280x800 13.3" non-IPS display for the last 6 or 7 years, and I'm pretty happy with it except for the limited viewing angles. Wouldn't regular HD on a 12.5" screen be a step up in resolution? A lot of the reviews of the regular HD on the X240 express disappointment with the "low" resolution, but I don't know if it's really that bad, or if people just have much higher expectations/standards than I do. I'm leaning towards regular HD because my glasses are so strong that increasing the sharpness of what I see also has the side effect of making things appear smaller (minimization error), so I'd probably have to mess with text/DPI scaling if I went with FHD, which isn't a perfect solution from what I've read. I'd only consider getting a touch version if I need FHD (since it doesn't come in non-touch), or if it somehow makes the HD display sharper or more vibrant--I have no intention of actually using touch features.
Apologies for the length, and thanks in advance for any advice! :-)

Actually I have been doing further research and I personally would either go with the 2.6GHz NON RETINA MBP or cough up the cash and go all out on a 2.6GHz RETINA MBP and upgrade the RAM to 16GB and upgrade to 768GB Flash storage, I am a student as well so will get a discount which will help.
My fears are that if I get the Retina model I will not be able to upgrade it even further, I want to keep the computer for at least a good 5 years, during those 5 to 8 years will the current upgrades be enough to keep up with the top games and programs etc? Also I have read that repairing the Retina display model is very diffcult and it can malfunction commonly, so I am guessing I should get apple care on top of it just to be sure with this particular model?
I am assuming that they they will bring out the new models out next year and all the chinks and bugs of the current Retina model will be fixed so to speak, of which I have read there is a few... Would it be worth buying the NON RETINA MBP and then selling and upgrading to an improved RETINA MBP model next year?
Finally if i back up my files on a hardrive would I have to use the USP SUPER DRIVE to install files onto the RETINA MBP or can i directly do this without the USP SUPERDRIVE?
Thanks

I need help choosing RAM for MSI PM8PM-V 7222 VER. 2.0 MB

hey everyone as you know my MB is in the subject and i need help buying ram for it. on the MSI website it says it can surpport max. 2GB so 1GB in each slot? it only has 2 slots also what DDR and MHZ clock, DRAM fequency etc does the ram have to be and both single sided or double sided or 1 single and 1 double?
thanks

Quote
also what DDR and MHZ clock, DRAM fequency etc does the ram have to be
http://global.msi.eu/index.php?func=proddesc&maincat_no=1&prod_no=1039
Quote
• Supports DDR2 533/400 memory interface.
Check the memory support list for best compatibility:
http://global.msi.eu/uploads/test_report/TR10_1039.pdf

Need help choosing a good CPU Fan.

I'm running an AMD Athlon XP 3200+ on my motherboard. I would appreciate any suggestions on a good quality CPU fan. Can't establish a good overclock without good stability, which comes from how well you keep your system cool. Nevermind what I just said, I'm talking out of my *censored*. Anyway, I could really use some recomendations.
"There's a fine line between fishing and standing on the shore like an idiot" - Comedian Steven Wright

_______________________________________ ________________________
Hehe,
i use a vantec tornado....
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=11-999-612&depa=0
i will give you plenty of warning, she is loud....however she blows some air!!!84.1cfm's to be exact but yes there is a comprise when using this thing...
if your heatsink will accept a 90mm fan, then i would suggest giving it a try if your going for a record oc or something to the effect b/c the 90mm moves some 10cfm's more i believe....
unless your going to watercool, get one of these... mated with the proper heatsink youll be just fine... my tornado keeps the thing at 33C with a full load... you wont be disappointed with the cooling, !!!!!

I need help choosing a cell phone

Ok. Currently I have an HTC Eris and it has all sorts of bad issues. I have talked with Verizon on the phone, chat, in person for the last several days. They said that I can get a pre-certified phone to replace my Eris and I had been going back and forth over the Blackberry Tour and Bold. Mind you that they don't have a pre certified bold, but are expecting me to come in and get the tour in two weeks when I get paid.
Here is the problem... I do love having the android market, but the only phone that I would even think of getting would be the Droid 2 as I love the way that the keyboard feels. I have priced just adding another line to my account so that I don't have to pay out the full price (539.99) and it would be 99.99 through wirefly, which would be great. I have found that wirefly has the blackberry curve 9330 for free and that is a new released phone. I had a blackberry years ago and loved the phone itself. The thing is too when I looked at the pre certified list this morning they had the moto droid available (I had this phone when I first started my contract and hated the keyboard and the touch keyboard.)
How do I choose what would be best for me?
1) I don't text that often, but I won't buy an all touch phone ever again. The texting on the touch screens drive me crazy and it takes forever to type something out because you have to go back and fix your words.
2) I check Facebook, and browse the internet at random times. I do love being somewhere and having the internet handy to look something up.
3) I do like the android apps, but blackberry has them to download too from their market and I don't remember them having issues of force closing like the androids do.
I mean do I even need a smart phone? I am currently typing this on my little HP laptop. I hadn't used my laptop for about three weeks until my Eris started acting up (god I hate this phone).
The last question is would it be good to get the tour for 189.99 replacement and not have to add a fourth line, or add a fourth line and hope that I can exchange the eris line out for just a T9 phone for an extra 10 bucks a month?
Thanks for any help you all can give me

Yeah I was just reading a difference between the two here online when I got your message. After reading the differences between the blackberry and the android I still can't quite make up my mind, but I think I am getting closer to deciding.
I like the fact that the Androids have bigger screens for you to look at the internet and media
I like the bar style of the blackberry because you can reply quickly and know that with blackberry's system that things will push through quickly.
Android does have a lot more apps, and it took me quite awhile to choose which apps worked best for me. Still there are those cursed Force closes that drive me crazy every day. And when my task killer stopped doing its job I switched to another. I like not having to worry about this on the blackberry.
I like the fact that with the blackberry all you have to do is start typing and it will pull things up. I really wish that the Android phones did this. I like to get things done quickly. I don't like having to click three times or more to get to where I am going. I know I am being a bit picky here, but I like things simple. No I don't have a business or anything as I am disabled, so in a way having the blackberry probably is wasting the phone itself.
All in all I wish that Verizon would be able to get ahold of T-mobiles Motorola Charm. That is the type of phone that I would love to have as it has the qwerty right there on the phone. I know that at some point and time that Android will get caught up within themselves to where everything runs great, but they honestly have to quit letting so many phones come out. With all the different platforms and styles I see the constant threads about what works on a Droid X won't work on a Nexus one and vice versa. They need to do what blackberry has and make phones that are compatible for all their apps.
I have narrowed it down that I do love the apps and entertainment on the Android. I know that I need an android phone with a qwerty as I can't type on the all touch keyboards. I think this is why I am starting to really lean towards the Droid 2. I played with it while we were waiting at the store and I liked the way that the qwerty felt (much better and easier than the original Droid.) I love the LG Ally keyboard, but after looking at the reviews and hearing from my son that it crashes, I decided against that phone.
If you all know of an Android phone that I will be really happy with, and even if it has issues stick with it please let me know. My partner loves her Devour and is on her fourth replacement. She loves the phone so much she will keep getting it replaced until our contract to upgrade comes up. I have tried the Devour as well and don't care for the phone. It's too bulky for me, but to each their own preference.
Please let me know what you all think as I only have two weeks to make a final decision. It will be greatly appreciated.

I need help choosing a monitor! PLEASE HELP!

I getting a brand new mac mini from ebay and i am deciding between a 15-inch or a 14-inch LCD display. I was just wondering, if both of the displays have a resolution of 1024 x 768, is that the pixel count too? so does that mean the pixels on the 15-inch are just bigger or something? i need to know because the 14-inch LCD is $40 cheaper than the 15 inch....Thanks everyone!
also, since i've already decided on getting an apple keyboard, do you think the mighty mouse is really worth $49? i like to stick with apple products so that's why I'm wondering.
~CHRIS~

It doesn't necessarily mean the pixels themselves are bigger or smaller. It could also be the dot pitch (or distance between pixels) is bigger or smaller. If the native resolution is 1024x768 then you are correct, there are physically 1024x768=786,432 pixels. A 15" screen with the same resolution as a 14" screen may appear slightly less sharp but objects will appear larger. It's a tradeoff. Generally I would choose the larger monitor just because it is easier on the eyes when reading small print, etc.
Hope that helps,
-CW

Graphic Design major needs help choosing a Mac!

I'm a Graphic Design student, and I'm about to purchase my first Macbook Pro. I need to know the minimum specs my Mac needs, without sacrificing performance. I'll be running multiple Applications/Programs simultaneously without stalling or crashing. (ie: Photoshop, Illustrator, Indesign, Internet with lots of tabs, music, and occassionally whatever program they'll use for my animation class.) I have a MyBook external terabyte, so saving large projects won't be an issue. Also, I kind of want to have an internal CD/DVD drive, but if that sacrifices performance way too much, I can get an external.
I've been offered this used MBP that is one year old, for a reduced price, http://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs/ (See the specs for the 13" for $1199), but will it be enough? Even if I buy more RAM and install it myself, will the processor be fast enough? Will everything else be enough?
Here's the link comparing all the new MBP's, http://www.apple.com/why-mac/compare/notebooks.html , some of which can be upgraded for an additonal price. Is it necessary to purchase one of these? Which one? Is Retina Display necessary? Performance is more important to me than money, but I don't want to just get an excessive amount of GHz, RAM, etc...that I won't even need. Can anyone help?

Your link to the Best Buy MBP does not work for me but I looked on the best but website and found the only 17" MBP, model MC725LL/A, which is an early 2011 MBP. It does not say which CPU it has, a 2.2 GHz or 2.3 GHz. Either way the price is the most attractive.
If this is left over and not an open box, it probably represents the best value in that respect. I would establish if it is really new and what CPU it has before committing any funds. I note it has Snow Leopard as the OS which has been supplanted by Lion and Mt. Lion. You might think that this is a negative, but it really is not. You may always install Mt. Lion at a later date ($20) if you feel you have to. I have a late 2011 17" MBP which came with Lion and I have also installed Snow Leopard on it. Snow Leopard is the most efficient OS that Apple has offered and I do not consider obsolete by any means.
Though Apple says that 8 GB RAM is the maximum, all 2011 MBPs will accommodate 16 GB. I have that in my MBP.
There is one point that you should seriously consider. That Is the Glossy vs. the Anti-glare display. It would be best that you go to an Apple store and look at them side by side in order to make an informed decision. I have a MBP with the Glossy display, my first one, which I like but the second one I got has the Anti-glare and that in my opinion is the more practical. The newest one is also Anti-glare. I have heard it said by serious photographers that the colors are more accurate on the Ant-glare displays. It may be worth the price differential, but you have to decide. (That is another item that should be determined with the Best Buy option)
If you have any additional questions, just ask!
Ciao.

Need help choosing a new macbook

I want to buy a small lighter macbook. I have a 15" macbook pro. i do like it despite the MANY times it has been in for repair.
I need the smaller one for travel etc. I don't think I want the Air b/c it doesn't have a burner.
That leaves the 13" Macbook. I am on my computer many hours everyday. I do have too many photos & would like a great way to edit, save, store. I also download lots of music. I have a website and store that all on my desktop b/c my Macbook Pros burner ha not worked more that it has. I have to take it for repair again.
I would spend whatever to have everything I need in it.
Pls help me choose macbook and and things i should have configured on it.
thx!

hello!
the white MBs have always been dependable for me and every at my school. they work great and the new updated graphics card in the white MBs seems to be the thing you need. if you have a ton of stuff on the MB pro, the hard drive may not be big enough on he white MB, but for the price difference of an upgrade to the aluminum one, you can buy a TB of space on an external HD. not bad. the white MB has a SuperDrive. my flute teacher has a silver MB and it has a hard time picking up AirPort signals because of the metal, so the white one is better if you intend to use the AirPort frequently.
hope that helps a bit!
-MD55
p.s. here's a great case if you intend to carry around your laptop. i have it in pink and i absolutely love it!
here's the link: http://store.apple.com/us/product/TS701ZM/A?fnode=MTY1NDA2Ng&mco=MjQyMzA2Ng&p=3& s=topSellers

Need help choosing a MIDI keyboard

I am about to go on the road with my band, was wondering if any of you guys could help me choose a MIDI keyboard.
I need a keyboard to trigger my samples and synths which are set up in Logic, which has about 88 keys, and quite a few controllers, it also needs to have semi-wieghted keys.
I have at the moment an M-Audio Keystation Pro 88. Im not to keen on it.
I have my eyes on a few keyboards but just wondered what you guys recommended.
Thanks

the current midi controllers that are being offered right now such as from m-audio do seem a little cheap.
a little while ago i had to get a midi controller for my studio and i did not feel comfortable with most of the current controllers when i checked them out. i ended up getting a used roland a-90 and i did not regret this decision!
however, the roland a-90 is heavy. i think for use onstage it boils down to the question how much more weight do you want to carry in exchange for more potential reliability and sturdiness? a nice little detail about the a-90 is that it comes not only with the usual mod/pitch wheel but also with a joystick, which for live playing can be a bonus if you want to apply e.g. vibrato and pitch bend at the same time with one hand.
out of the newer controllers it looked to me that the ones by cme seem to be interesting, at least for the money. at least they have aftertouch...
i am sure there are other good options out there - this is just my little piece of experience.
G5 dual 1.8 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

If ANYONE needs help choosing mba 13 vs mbp 13 look here

most helpful review ever (i got mba) from cnet
Hope this helps
oh and what will you be getting
copied from http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20082192-1/macbook-air-vs-macbook-pro-which- apple-13-incher-should-you-buy/
That glut's been lessened a little now that the white MacBook has been discontinued. The MacBook Air and the MacBook Pro are the only two MacBook product lines left, and they represent two different solutions to same problem. The unibody aluminum Pro used to be considered thin, but it's--relatively--thick at 1 inch, and weighs over 4 pounds. The Pro offers better specs, while the Air, which has just been recently updated, leans toward light weight and quick booting as its advantages.
There's more to consider, though: the 2011 13-inch MacBook Pro and new 13-inch MacBook Air have become more similar than they've ever been before, for several reasons--performance, battery life, and a Thunderbolt port.
Two 13-inch MacBooks: which do you choose?
Let's put them side by side and compare. (Note: For additional price-based consideration, we're throwing the higher-end 11-inch Air into the chart comparison, since its $1,199 price matches the entry-level 13-inch MacBook Pro.)
11-inch MacBook Air (2011)
13-inch MacBook Air (2011)
13-inch MacBook Pro (2011)
CPU
1.6GHz Intel Core i5
1.7GHz Intel Core i5
2.3GHz Intel Core i5
RAM
4GB
4GB
4GB
Storage
128GB SSD
128GB SSD
320GB HDD
Weight
2.38 lbs
2.96 lbs
4.5 lbs
Screen resolution
1,366x768
1,440x900
1,280x800
Battery life
276 minutes
406 minutes
402 minutes
Price
$1,199
$1,299
$1,199
Size: How quickly things change: in March, the 2011 MacBook Pro was the newest laptop in Apple's stable. Now, it's the oldest. It's obviously far heavier than the 13-inch Air, by over a pound and a half. Edge: Air.
Performance: Last time, we recommended the entry-level 13-inch MacBook Pro as the best all-around Apple 13-incher in terms of price, design, and performance. The MacBook Air has caught up fast. Its price and base RAM/storage specs are still the same, but the new Air has a dramatically faster second-gen Core i5 CPU that makes for a far better computer. Benchmark results are so close they're practically indistinguishable: despite the Air having a lower-speed CPU, it performs nearly identically to the Pro. The 11-inch Air's no slouch either, and it's nearly as good, its performance lag likely being due to having less RAM and a .1GHz slower processor. Edge: Tie.
Battery life: Again, nearly the same. The MacBook Air lost the battle in the spring, but the new, more power-efficient second-gen Intel Core i5 CPU has evened the comparison. Both 13-inchers netted around 6 hours and 40 minutes. Edge: Tie.
Extras: The 13-inch Pro wins on features, but it's a narrower win than you'd expect. A larger hard drive and a DVD-burning optical drive are the larger Pro's advantages, along with an HD Webcam. Port-wise, the Pro adds a FireWire port and an Ethernet jack, and that's it. However, the Air has a higher-resolution 1,440x900-pixel display, while the Pro, oddly enough, has a 1,280x800-pixel screen. Edge: Pro.
And now, case by case:
Best value for the money: Pro. Unless you truly value size and weight above all else, the 13-inch Pro offers more features, ports, and hard-drive space, along with an optical drive. The advantage is narrow, though; narrower than it's ever been.
For the coffee-shopper and frequent traveler: Air. Obviously, size is key. The Air's tiny, and now it also has improved battery life. Some people, though, might prefer the even smaller 11-inch Air, although it doesn't last as long on a charge.
Student who wants to save money: Pro. Last time, we said to get the white MacBook, the king of value. You're out of luck on deals this time. The $999 11-inch Air is the cheapest, but sacrifices valuable storage space. The $1,199 Pro's technically a good value, but more expensive. Educational discounts currently have the entry-level Pro at $1,099 and the entry-level Air at $1,249. Does a difference of $150 affect your purchasing decision? Alternatively, perhaps consider the $499iPad, or a Windows laptop.
Money is no object, best computer: Air. We would have said the 13-inch Pro a year ago, but you might as well consider splurging on a 256GB 13-inch Air with an upgraded 1.8GHz Core i7 processor, and get a Thunderbolt-connected storage array along with a Thunderbolt Display to dock with. It'll cost a fortune, but you said you were rich, right?
Executive with expense account: Air. See above. The MacBook Air is finally as fast as the 13-inch Pro, so there's less of a sacrifice between size and speed.
Conclusion: Very tough call. Now it's a split. We give it to the 13-inch Pro on a technicality, for now, for the average person looking to replace an everyday laptop. The 13-inch Pro still a bit more of a value, even though the Air is arguably a better pure portableMac. The Air did earn an Editors' Choice Award on CNET, while the 13-inch Pro didn't, but that's also a matter of accomplishment for its size class: the 13-inch Air is the best thin MacBook, while the 15-inch Pro is technically the better larger-form MacBook. Even though Apple's Web site suggests that new users start with the MacBook Air, technically, if you're considering a 13-incher, you should start with the $100-cheaper 13-inch Pro.
Are an optical drive and extra hard-drive space worth the added weight? With networked hard drives, external peripherals, and cloud-based storage, is the 13-inch Air more your style? Sound off below, let us know what you'd prefer.
Read more: http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20082192-1/macbook-air-vs-macbook-pro-which- apple-13-incher-should-you-buy/#ixzz1THuDcaFP

Hmm, I'm much more interested in comparing performance benchmarks... your review seems to infer that there's not much difference between the Air Pro, but I'd want to see examples, comparing typical processor and disk R/W activities.

Need help choosing how to extend my existing home network to my detached garage?

I have done as much research as possible on this scenario but cannot seem to match the ideal solution with my wants. Perhaps I simply just do not understand networking as well as I thought I did. Either way, any helpful information or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Objective: Extend my wireless network to my detached garage.
My current ISP provider is Time Warner Cable. I have RoadRunner Extreme, which in my area gives consistent speeds of 50 Mbps download and 5 Mbps upload when I am connected via ethernet cable. When I upgraded to the "Extreme" package i found out I was forced to use their Motorola SB6580 ... its a DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem + wireless router. I was able to access the Motorola's setup options on the internet and I disabled the wireless function. This has allowed me to use my Time Capsule as the primary router to provide wireless access on my home network. I have not had any issues with this setup and is my preferred way to operate.
I have recently moved my home office to the 2nd story of my detached garage and need to extend my wireless network to meet the demands of all my gear. I have decided to achieve this goal by going with one of the following 3 options:
1.) enable the wireless function on the motorola modem making it the primary router. move my time capsule out to the office and use it in bridge mode. However I do not think I understand bridge mode correctly. I thought the secondary router (in this case my TC) in bridge mode needed to be connected w/ an ethernet cable at all times to enable this feature? If I understand similar networking discussions I will lose the ethernet ports with this option? If this isnt called Bridge mode once i take away the ethernet cable what is it "technically" called?
2.) buy a 2nd airport extreme base station and create the same type of wireless network extension setup. The difference here is I would leave my motorola's wireless features disabled, use 2 apple products that speak apples to apples wirelessly and relieve myself of all the headaches involved with a neopolitan setup. This seems like the obvious choice b/c Apple products are much more user friendly, but I dont want to spend the $200 on a new router if I can achieve a comparable setup by just enabling the equipment I already have.
3.) use either of these 2 scenarios above & go buy a 150' ethernet cable to join them together. if this is the case wouldnt a $50 hub suffice on the end of the cable? I dont necessarily need to have wireless, just reliable connectivity. I can access the existing wireless network now, but download speeds are not great and things really start to slow down when i have multiple clients connected. I would rather not have to drill through exterior walls, bury conduit and install learn how to install data wall plates, but i will if this is the pros far out way the cons.
Current modem/router placement: if standing @ the front door of my 1 story house facing out towards the street my motorola modem/router is in the front right-hand corner of the house.
Distance location of the detached garage office setup: if standing @ my front door my my work area is in the far back left corner of my property. it is approx 175' from the router and on the 2nd story of the garage. I said 150' cable earlier b/c i could relocate the router to a bedroom on the opposite end of the house, however this would eleminate the current wired status of the items connected to it and I would prefer to keep them wired in.
clients connected in the house: (4) apple tv's; Roku; Xbox; Wii; Playstation 3; (2) Lenovo laptops; iPad; (2) Blackberry's; (2) iPhones; iPod touch; (2) wireless netowrk printers; (2) smart tv's ... a handful of these are currently wired into the time capsule now which provides an uninterupted viwing experience for the MLB package. This of course trumps all opportunity costs involved with moving the router. There is nothing more frustrating than a screen buffering in the botton of the 9th inning after you've sat there for 3 hours.
clients connected in the office: (2) 27" imacs; apple tv; iPad; network printer; Wii; Harmony Link universal remote; Mac Book Pro ...
I have approx 5TB of digital media that is shared over the network via shared iTunes libraries that I would like to access as well. iCloud helps with all of our household gadgets as far as acessibility but with all the backups going on simutaneously it also creates headaches when you need the throughput. I need to do a better job of managing those settings. nonetheless, I would like some guidance on the best way to extend my current netowrk, suggestions for better scenarios i did not mention and thus am probably not aware of and any networking 101 schooling if it doesnt sound like i understand the way bridge mode/network extension works. sorry for the long post and thank you for your time & help.

Ethernet beats all other solutions hands down..
A single ethernet connection from wherever is the closest point in the house to the garage office... wins. You can plug a router working as AP and switch or pure switch on to it. Get a cabler in to do the job.. and they can probably figure it out and do the whole job whilst you scatch your head.. yes you will pay for it.. but a cabler knows how to do it. And most likely leave the inside network exactly as it is. Since office is important to be reliable.. there is one and one only reliable method.. ethernet.
If the garage and house are on one electrical circuit.. which is doubtful if it is a separate building then EOP adapters can often work well.. They do not handle earth leakage protection, breakers (rather than fuses) or meters at all well.. but if they are simply all connected to power.. behind the same meter and using old fashioned fuse box.. EOP rated at 200mbps or some now are 500mbps can work reasonably well. Speed about the same as wireless at its best but if it works when installed will generally not change with the weather, moon, and wind direction which wireless is liable to do.
Wireless bridging.. hmm avoid if possible. For reliable connection no.. apple products can do wireless repeater but as you mentioned that turns off the ethernet ports except for the Express.. that is the only unit you can use as a bridge and plug a switch into it. Why Apple why??
So if you want to bridge two points by wireless buy specialised wireless bridge.. that means an AP in the house plugged into the existing network.. and AP unit perhaps on the outside of the garage.. or in windows if you have a window in the house that looks at a window in your office. Look at products from companies like ubiquiti.. they are not too expensive but professional equipment and designed for precisely this kind of work.
Hence the reliability is dramatically better than domestic stuff.. and will require a lot less work to maintain the link.
Conclusion.. wire it.
Unless you rent the house.. an investment in ethernet cabling install once properly and forget .. beats every other solution even if it costs x5 as other solutions.

Need help choosing a printer/scanner - any help appreciated!

I have a Pixma MP560 printer and a Canoscan 9950F scanner. My printer is having issues and was told by support need to replace it. My Canoscan 9950F scanner hasn't been used in years (hardly ever used before either) but it is no longer supported and doesn't work with Yosemite (no updated available). I want to scan hundreds of photos from my photo albums (and also have a good printer). What is the best all-in-one printer/scanner to do this? I want good quality scans on my photos and am not sure what resolution I need (was told should scan at 300 DPI - is that right?) - the quality of these photos is important in case I would want to print them out in the future, etc. Can I get by with an all-in-one printer/scanner or am I best off going with a cheaper printer and getting another canoscan? The ink cartridges for the MP560 are relatively expensive also - and found that cheaper refilled cartridges cause harm to the printer. What is my best options for this set-up without costing an arm and leg for print cartridges, etc. Thanks in advance for any and all opinions/help and feel free to ask any other questions - Oh, I use a Macintosh computer also.

Hello. The most comparable replacement to the MP560 would be the PIXMA MG6620. This unit will be able to perform high quality photo printouts, document printouts and also perform scans. More information on this unit can be found at this link. If you plan on scanning film, our latest film scanner would be the CanoScan 9000F Mark II. More information can be found at this link. This didn't answer your question or issue? Find more help at Contact Us.

Need help choosing Software for a Slide Presentation

I'd really appreciate some advice....I need to make a slide presentation with an audio soundtrack. There don't need to be any fancy special effects as the slides transition. A simple fade in & out is all I'm looking for. All I need is for some of the slides to show longer than others (maybe 6-8 secs. vs 3-4 secs. for the rest.) There are about 250-300 slides which I have in i-photo and the soundtrack will be 4 tracks I have in i-tunes. I need to be able to burn the presentation onto a DVD once it's assembled. Will the Keynote application in i-works do this or should I use something else?
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thx in advance, Malco
powerbook g4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Welcome to the discussion boards, malcoinc . It sounds like what you want to do would best be accomplished from within iPhoto itself, using its slideshow functionality -- I believe it has all the capabilities you are looking for, including sending the slideshow directly to iDVD once it is completed. I'd suggest reading the iPhoto documentation on this feature before considering moving to some other solution, as anything else is likely to be more complex.
PowerMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.4)

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