Now you can upgrade your internal iMac hard drive to 1.5 TB!

It is now possible to upgrade iMac white, iMac aluminum models 2007 and 2008 with internal 1.5 TB hard drive!

Most Macs and PC's built before 2003 were limited on their stock internal HD capacity to a maximum 128GB HD per IDE/ATA HD. This used to be an issue that affected your internal HD options. However, due to recent advents in Mac OSX and hardware, SATA HD's can be used up to 1.5 TB for desktop towers. Remember one other thing, Make sure you have an equal capacity HD to backup your HD if you do so. Mega HD upgrades also mean MEGA data loss in the event of failure.

Similar Messages

  • Does anyone know if you can upgrade your phone (is due)  but be able to stay on the plan i have (unlimited data)  which is a plan no longer offered?

    i am available for phone upgrade and would like a new phone but do not want to lose the plan i currently have,  which includes unlimited data (i got it before verizon stopped it).  does anyone know how to upgrade phone,  and not change plan?

    Studiomagic wrote:
    Yes, I've done it in the past; just make sure you do it in a store so you'll have someone who'll take accountability for it.
    I think the phone itself is part of it... if you go from Android to Iphone then you need a different data package, but staying within the same sort of phone should keep you safe.
    Android or iPhone data is all the same. I have 4 iPhones and 1 Android phone all on the same plan.
    What you can't do and keep your unlimited data plan is get a new phone from Verizon at a subsidized price. You must pay full price from Verizon or get you new phone from somewhere else and then activate it on your Verizon plan. i.e. craigslist, ebay, or third party.
    Good luck,

  • Internal iMac hard drive keeps trying to power down without my consent

    How do you stop an internal hard drive from shutting down when you didn't ask it to?
    Background:
    I use Missing Sync for Palm to sync my Palm handheld with my iMac. My Palm has a SD card slot it in and the sync software came with a program that allows me to mount the
    SD card as an external drive on my iMac. From there, I can add podcasts, music or whatever I want directly to the card. I have used this software since March with no problems.
    Also, when you put my computer to sleep or shut it down, there is a click and then the internal hard drive shuts down.
    Last night, I activated the program to mount the SD card to my iMac and instead of it mounting, the iMac's internal hard drive started trying to shut down.
    I have used this program many, many times to mount the SD card to my iMac with absolutely no problem. It was weird this time because I kept hearing that clicking noise. The computer became extremely sluggish. To me, it appeared that the internal hard drive was trying to shut down. After about 4-5 clicks, it succeeded and the computer froze.
    Since that time, shortly after you turn the iMac on, you hear that clicking noise trying to power down the hard drive. Sometimes, it just takes a few clicks and the hard drive shuts off. Sometimes the computer will boot all the way up, I can log in and launch a program before it shuts off and the computer freezes. While I can't check the drive with First Aid or Diskwarrior because it shuts off before I can scan it, I assume the data and the drive are ok because I have been able to successfully boot from it and log into my account but shortly after I log in, the hard drive shuts down and the computer is stuck.
    Any ideas? Any help would be wonderful!

    You are right. It is failing. I took my Mac into the Apple Store and talked with a genius. Although the hard drive would not do what it had at home (typical when you're trying to get something diagnosed) I shut it down so he could hear the noise I do.
    Sure enough, he said the noise I heard was the drive read head hitting its start position. When a hard drive shuts down, the drive head moves out of the way since the "hard disk" is actually a thin floppy magnetic disc. The noise I kept hearing was indeed the drive trying to shut down.
    Fortunately, I did make a clone of my internal drive to that external drive 6 months ago so I was (eventually) able to copy over all the important files, update the external clone and boot off of it.
    Sure enough, tonight, I opened Disk Utility and it said in plain red letters that the drive had reported a hardware failure and should be replaced.
    Since my iMac is Summer 2001, the Mac Genius said they no longer carry parts for it so he gave me the name of a local place that would be glad to fix it up. I called them and luck would have it that they were completely out of the internal drives used by my model iMac. So I have to check next week to see if they have received more in yet.
    The good news is I can get a slightly larger interal hard drive since I was down to 10GB of a 60GB factory drive. So far, I hear I can go as high as 160GB but the RPM must be lower since my iMac has no fans.
    Thanks for your help! As much as I didn't want to believe it, you hit the problem right on.

  • How do you clean or de-frag iMac Hard Drive

    My Imac runs slows and frequently get the spinning wheel and apps become unresponsive.
    How can I do a HD check and also de-frag the disk?

    Kappy's Personal Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
    For disk repairs use Disk Utility.  For situations DU cannot handle the best third-party utilities are: Disk Warrior;  DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible. Drive Genius provides additional tools not found in Disk Warrior.  Versions 1.5.1 and later are Intel Mac compatible.
    OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep.  Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger.  These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or Lion and should not be installed.
    OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive. As for virus protection there are few if any such animals affecting OS X. You can protect the computer easily using the freeware Open Source virus protection software ClamXAV. Personally I would avoid most commercial anti-virus software because of their potential for causing problems. For more about malware see Macintosh Virus Guide.
    I would also recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX 2.4.3, or Cocktail 5.1.1 that you can use for periodic maintenance such as removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc.
    For emergency repairs install the freeware utility Applejack.  If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line.  Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. There is no confirmation that this version also works with Lion.
    When you install any new system software or updates be sure to repair the hard drive and permissions beforehand. I also recommend booting into safe mode before doing system software updates.
    Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
    Carbon Copy Cloner
    Data Backup
    Deja Vu
    SuperDuper!
    SyncTwoFolders
    Synk Pro
    Synk Standard
    Tri-Backup
    Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
    Additional suggestions will be found in Mac Maintenance Quick Assist.
    Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.
    Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.

  • I created a new home folder on an external but didn't move my old files over. Now I can't see the old hard drive in my mac mini. How can I locate that drive?

    I wanted to move my home folder to an external drive. I created a new home folder and in advanced options I moved it over. I didn't however move my files over first, my bad. Now I can't see the hard drive on my mac mini. Is it possible to reverse it or get access to the old home folder and is it possible to still use the mac mini's internal hard drive for storage? How do I find my shared folder, it was on the internal drive. I'm new to macs as you might have guessed at this debockle. Can anyone help?

    I'm using Mavricks. I wanted to move my home directory to an external and went into sys prop/users/advanced options and moved the folder ok. Being a noobie on Macs I didn't copy my data and such. So my settings were all new. Basicly now I don't see the internal drive on my mini. There is a lot of strage I'm not able to access. The internal drive doesn't show up. How can I put a folder back onto it so it shows up?

  • Installed Lion, now I can't save to my hard drive anymore!

    I installed Lion yesterday, and now I cannot save documents or anything to my hard drive anymore.  To create a new folder on my hd i need to put in permission, to save a word document it says, can't do!  No space
    "Word cannot save or create this file.  The disk may be full or write protected. Try one or more of the following, free more memory, make sure that the disk you want to save the file on is not full, write-protected or damaged. "
    How do I fix this?  thanks! e_moma
    Message was edited by: e_moma

    Hello Debora, and welcome to ASC -
    I think it would be better to start your own thread, for a couple of reasons. First, although you may be getting the same error message as the original poster, it's not at all clear yet that they are caused by the same problem, and trying to sort out possible different situations can get very confusing. The original poster seems to have a permission problem even for creating a new folder; if you can save from TextEdit but not from Word then you may have a different problem. The original poster always has priority.
    Second, this is the Lion forum, and if you are not running Lion you will get more focused help if you post in the forum that corresponds to your system. It's also important in getting help that people here know as much about your system as possible - you should complete your profile so that people know what you are running.

  • How can I wipe my imac hard drive if the imac is not recognising my keyboard

    I fell into the same trap many others have with installing Windows via bootcamp & not setting up the hard drive formatting properly. So I've got a "Disk error. Press any key to restart message."
    I've tried pressing command to get it to boot into OS and using 'c' to get it to boot from the OS cd. But my mouse and keyboard are not being recognised so these don't work.
    I'm thinking that there must be a way to wipe the hard drive so I can reinstall OS. I thought it may work to connect it to another computer in target disk mode, but the iMac won't recognise me pressing T. Would anyone know whether there is any other way I can wipe the hard drive or otherwise get OS back running?

    If your keyboard is a wireless one, wait until the startup chimes sound and then immediately press the appropriate key.
    If your keyboard is a non-Apple one, then startup commands may not be embedded. In this case, using an Apple keyboard should work, such as the original one that came with the machine.
    The key to hold down to bring up Startup Manager during booting is the Option key, not the Command key.

  • Can I restore my iMac hard drive to factory settings without the install disc?

    I have an older iMac running iOS X 10.5.8. with a 2GHZ processor.  1GB DDR SDRAM with a Power PC G5 chip
    We want to restore the hard drive to original factory settings but don't have the OS X install disc.  I have been searching online to find a disc, and can purchase one, but I want to know if I can do this without the install disc?  We want to do this so I can give this computer to my nephew.  I have already backed up all data.
    Currently I have gotten as far as clicking on the "ERASE" tab in the disk utility, but the "Security Options" and "Erase" buttons are greyed out (cannot click on them).  According to the Disk Utility help, the buttons are greyed out because I must start up using another disc, such as the Mac OS X install disc. 
    In addition, I DO have the Mac OS X install for my 13" MacBook Pro.  Can I use this disc for the iMac?
    Bottom line, I want to know if there is a work-around without having to purchase another start-up disk.
    Thanks for your help.

    We want to restore the hard drive to original factory settings but don't have the OS X install disc.
    Why?  Erase everything that isn't yours.  Create a new id.  Delete old id.  Secure erase empty space on hd.
    Once done, make a backup of the hd since the hd will fail eventually/soon.
    Restore Tiger 10.4 & Leopard 10.5  DVDs may be available from Apple by calling  1(800) 275-2273. Have your serial number ready. Have your credit card ready too.  There may be a small fee.
    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4720126?tstart=0  -- January 20,2013
    https://discussions.apple.com/message/24588313#24588313 -- January 22,2014

  • I have booted in Tech Tool; now how can I erase the Mac Hard Drive?

    I bootrd my MacBook Pro in Tech Tool, and want to erase the Hard drive completely. I can't do it. Any suggestions?

    A Late 2008 MacBook Pro should be able to boot off a disc that looks like
    And says Mac OS X 10.6 to erase the hard drive.  But before we even go that far, why do you want to erase, and is your data backed up?

  • X86 install was successful, but now I can't boot from the hard drive

    I have successfully installed Solaris 10 for x86 from the bootable CD ROMs. However, now, after removing the CD-ROM from the drive and booting from the hard disk I am having problems.
    The system attempts to boot. It displays the Solaris Primary Boot Subsytem v2.0 screen...pauses for 15 seconds...then reboots itself. And it continues this process.
    However, if I boot to CD-ROM first, then boot to the Hard Drive, I have no problems. The CDE comes up fine.
    We are running a 64 bit OS with a SATA drive that is supported. And as I mentioned, the install successfully completed.
    Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

    is your hard drive connected as IDE0 - primary master? if not try doing so.

  • Upgrading Your 17" MBP Hard Drive? (FYI/Review)

    Greetings!
    I'm not sure if this has been mentioned, but I wanted to give a heads-up to anyone who might be replacing their hard drive in a 17" MBP...
    Mine is 15 months old. I read all of the posts, and reviewed all of the online instructions for replacing the drive. Overall, the process was pretty routine. However, there was one surprise to be aware of, that I did not find in any of the material I read or reviewed...
    When I got to the point of removing the actual drive, I was surprised to find the design of my MBP differed from others shown in the various online instructions I reviewed. As the general instructions go, you simply need to remove the two screws/rubber mounts on the right side of the drive, gently slide it out, disconnect the cable, and you're home free...
    However, on my MBP there were two other pesky screws/rubber mounts located on the left side of the drive, which were attached to the framed molding the drive sits in. Problem is, this molding doesn't come off. On that same left side, the molding is fitted underneath the card slot circuitry, adjacent to the top of the drive. There's not a lot of room to work there. Without having some sort of narrow-bend, angled #6 torque driver, this baby didn't look like it was accessible...
    I ended up having to remove one torque screw and one very small phillips screw from the front of the molding, located near the latch button. This allowed me to gently pry up the front left corner of this molding to get the front left screw out of the drive. The back left screw was a different story. There's not as much give in this section. I had to go with the gently-pry-up method. It had some give (It's plastic), but I had to be very careful not to snap the thing...
    Once I got that last screw out, I put the new drive in, as instructed. However, getting those two left screws back in were a pain. Unless you have a third hand, when you lift up the plastic molding to put the screw back in, you need to try and balance/line up the drive with the holes. Again, this is all pretty snug and tight. If you sneeze while holding up this molding and drive, you could snap the whole thing...
    I am by no means an expert. Maybe I'm an idiot and someone has posted a better method for this type of MBP design. I didn't find one. Anyway, I just thought I would share my experience. I know there are some definite model differences between various dates of manufacture. Once again, if I hadn't had this issue, this would have been a 30 minute job. I laid out a piece of large packing tape right-side up on a towel. I laid out all the screws for each removal phase on this tape in rows, marking where they came from on a sheet of paper. Beyond the surprise design issues, it went quite smoothly...
    Hope this helps someone...
    Blessings,
    Craig

    A 17" mid 2009 MBP will accept up to 8 GB RAM with the following specifications:  204-pin PC3-8500 (1066 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM.  The best sources for Mac compatible RAM are OWC and Crucial.
    Any 2.5", 9.5 mm thick SATA HDD/SSD will be compatible with your MBP,  You should have no difficulty in finding a 1 TB HDD for your MBP.  Start your search by examining the selection here:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/2.5-Notebook/
    Ciao.

  • Cannot open your default e-mail folders. You must connect to Microsoft Exchange with the current profile before you can synchronize your folders with your Outlook data file (.ost)

    Fresh installation of Exchange Server 2013 on Windows Server 2012.
    Our first test account cannot access their email via Outlook but can access fine through OWA. The following message appears - "Cannot open your default e-mail folders. You must connect to Microsoft Exchange with the current profile before you can synchronize
    your folders with your Outlook data file (.ost)" is displayed.
    If I turn off cached Exchange mode, setting the email account to not
    cache does not resolve the issue and i get a new error message - "Cannot open your default e-mail folders. The file (path\profile name).ost is not an Outlook data file (.ost). Very odd since it creates its own .ost file when you run it for the first
    time.
    I cleared the appdata local Outlook folder and I tested on a new laptop that has never connected to Outlook, same error message on any system.
    Microsoft Exchange RPC Client Access service is running.
    No warning, error or critical messages in the eventlog, it's like the healthiest server alive.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. I haven't encountered this issue with previous versions of Exchange.

    So it looks like a lot of people are having this issue and seeing how Exchange 2013 is still new (relatively to the world) there isn't much data around to answer this. I've spend ALOT of time trying to figure this out.
    Here is the answer. :) - No I don't know all but I'm going to try to give you the most reasonable answer to this issue, in a most logical way.
    First thing I did when I was troubleshooting this issue is that I ignored Martina Miskovic's suggestion for Step4 http://technet.microsoft.com/library/jj218640(EXCHG.150)because it didn't make sense to me because I was trying to connect
    Outlook not outside the LAN but actually inside. However, Martina's suggestion does fix the issue if it's applied in the correct context.
    This is where the plot thickens (it's stew). She failed to mention that things like SSL (which I configure practically useless - anyone who ever worked in a business environment where the owner pretty much trusts anyone in the company, otherwise they don't
    work there - very good business practice in my eyes btw, can confirm that...) are some sort of fetish with Microsoft lately. Exchange 2013 was no exception.
    In exchange 2003, exchange 2007 and exchange 2010 - you could install it and then go to outlook and set it up. And when outlook manual Microsoft Exchange profile would ask you for server name, you would give it and give the name of the person who you setting
    up - as long as machine is on the domain, not much more is needed. IT JUST WORKS! :) What a concept, if the person already on premises of the business - GIVE HIM ACCESS. I guess that was too logical for Microsoft. Now if you're off premises you can use things
    like OutlookAnywhere - which I might add had their place under that scenario.
    In Exchange 2013, the world changed. Ofcourse Microsoft doesn't feel like telling it in a plain english to people - I'm sure there is an article somewhere but I didn't find it. Exchange 2013 does not support direct configuration of Outlook like all of it's
    previous versions. Did you jaw drop? Mine did when I realized it. So now when you are asked for your server name in manual outlook set up and you give it Exchange2013.yourdomain.local - it says cannot connect to it. This happens because ALL - INTERNAL AND
    EXTERNAL connection are now handled via OutlookAnywhere. You can't even disable that feature and have it function the reasonable way.
    So now the question still remains - how do you configure outlook. Well under server properties there is this nice section called Outlook anywhere. You have a chance to configure it's External and Internal address. This is another thing that should be logical
    but it didn't work that way for me. When I configured the external address different from the internal - it didn't work. So I strongly suggest you get it working with the same internal address first and then ponder how you want to make it work for the outside
    users.
    Now that you have this set up you have to go to virtual directories and configure the external and internal address there - this is actually what the Step 4 that Martina was refering to has you do.
    Both external and internal address are now the same and you think you can configure your outlook manually - think again. One of the most lovely features of Outlook Anywhere, and the reason why I had never used it in the past is that it requires a TRUSTED
    certificate.
    See so it's not that exchange 2013 requires a trusted certificate - it's that exchange 2013 lacks the feature that was there since Windows 2000 and Exchange 5.5.
    So it's time for you to install an Active Direction Certificate Authority. Refer to this wonderful article for exact steps - http://careexchange.in/how-to-install-certificate-authority-on-windows-server-2012/
    Now even after you do that - it won't work because you have to add the base private key certificate, which you can download now from your internal certsrv site, to Default Domain Policy (AND yes some people claim NEVER mess with the Default Domain Policy,
    always make an addition one... it's up to you - I don't see direct harm if you know what you want to accomplish) see this: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc738131%28v=ws.10%29.aspx if you want to know exact steps.
    This is the moment of ZEN! :) Do you feel the excitement? After all it is your first time. Before we get too excited lets first request and then install the certificate to actual Exchange via the gui and assign it to all the services you can (IIS, SMTP and
    there is a 3rd - I forgot, but you get the idea).
    Now go to your client machine where you have the outlook open, browse to your exchange server via https://exchang2013/ in IE and if you don't get any certificate errors - it's good. If you do run on hte client and the server: gpupdate /force This will refresh
    the policy. Don't try to manually install the certificate from Exchange's website on the client. If you wanna do something manually to it to the base certificate from the private key but if you added it to the domain policy you shouldn't have to do it.
    Basically the idea is to make sure you have CA and that CA allows you to browse to exchange and you get no cert error and you can look at the cert and see that's from a domain CA.
    NOW, you can configure your outlook. EASY grasshoppa - not the manual way. WHY? Cause the automatic way will now work. :) Let it discover that exachange and populate it all - and tell you I'm happy! :)
    Open Outlook - BOOM! It works... Was it as good for you as it was for me?
    You may ask, why can't I just configure it by manual - you CAN. It's just a nightmare. Go ahead and open the settings of the account that got auto configed... How do you like that server name? It should read something like [email protected]
    and if you go to advanced and then connection tab - you'll see Outlook Anywhere is checked as well. Look at the settings - there is the name of the server, FQDN I might add. It's there in 2 places and one has that Mtdd-something:Exchange2013.yourdomain.local.
    So what is that GUID in the server name and where does it come from. It's the identity of the user's mailbox so for every user that setting will be different but you can figure it out via the console on the Exchange server itself - if you wish.
    Also a note, if your SSL certs have any trouble - it will just act like outlook can't connect to the exchange server even though it just declines the connection cause the cert/cert authority is not trusted.
    So in short Outlook Anywhere is EVERYWHERE! And it has barely any gui or config and you just supposed to magically know that kind of generic error messages mean what... Server names are now GUIDs of the [email protected] - THAT MAKES PERFECT
    SENSE MICROSOFT! ...and you have to manage certs... and the only place where you gonna find the name of the server is inside the d*** Outlook Anywhere settings in the config tab, un it's own config button - CAN WE PUT THE CONFIG ANY FURTHER!
    Frustrating beyond reason - that should be Exchange's new slogan...
    Hope this will help people in the future and won't get delete because it's bad PR for Microsoft.
    PS
    ALSO if you want to pick a fight with me about how SSL is more secure... I don't wanna hear it - go somewhere else...

  • Can i get a bigger Hard drive for my Macbook? :)

    Hey everybody!
    Whats the biggest size hard drive i can get for my macbook
    is it an easy to do, or a real pain
    Does it void the macbook warrenty?
    Will it slow my machine
    Any recomendations
    Thanks so much

    macyyyyyyy wrote:
    Whats the biggest size hard drive i can get for my macbook
    There is a new 500 GB drive out but it is hard to find. I put this 320 GB drive in mine.
    Western Digital Scorpio WD3200BEVT 320GB 5400 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Notebook Hard Drive - OEM
    is it an easy to do, or a real pain
    Yes it is easy. These are very good instructions on How to Upgrade Your MacBook's Hard Drive.
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    Here is the Apple Apples DIY hard drive replacement instructions.
    The only step they left out is the need for a number 8 *Torx Driver* to swap a shield from the old drive to the new.
    Does it void the macbook warrenty?
    No it does not unless you mess it up. See this for details.
    Apples DIY Warranty Info
    Will it slow my machine
    Mine is faster with the new drive.
    Any recomendations
    OWC MacBook Ram and Hard drives is a good source. Be sure the drive meets the following size specs.
    English
    Height: 0.374 ±0.008 inch
    Length: 3.94 ±0.010 inch
    Width: 2.75 ±0.010 inch
    Weight: 0.26 Pounds (±0.10 lb)
    Metric
    Height: 9.5 ±0.20 mm
    Length: 100.2 ±0.25 mm
    Width: 69.85 ±0.25 mm
    Weight: 0.117 kg (± 0.082 kg)
    >

  • Where can I get a new hard drive for an LC II (80MB)

    I have a complete Macintosh LC II that saw most of the family through University (and me retraining as a dentist). The hard drive is an IBM HDD 80MB 3.5" WDS-L80 - does anyone know anyone still selling these/ can I use a substitute. Would like to keep the Mac as a feature in my office/study.

    Wow, i just went to buy.com and their homepage is so messy i couldn't even find the computer stuff.
    So out of curiosity, i checked eBay and 80GB SCSI hard drives are grossly overpriced. $50 is a lot even if it's new, which most are not. You might make an offer on one that's "buy it now or best offer". 
    But here are two possibly better sources:
    1. Check craigslist in your area for old used Macs. I suspect you can put in a SCSI hard drive up to at least 512 MB in size. (or do you want the "stock" hardware config..? )
    2. You could check state surplus in your area for old used Macs, but they're likely recycling anything that old if it comes in. You might talk to their computer person and ask if he'll save any "vintage" Macs for you if any come in.
    I have an LC 475 someplace. Pretty cool little computer.  I might actually have an extra SCSI HD around too that i could part with.

  • What's happening with my iMac hard drive?

    I was on Disk Utility the other day, and a message was displayed on my screen. It said... "This drive has a hardware problem and cannot be repaired. Back up as much data as possible and replace the disk. See an authorised Apple dealer for more information." This message was referring to my 1TB ST31000528AS internal iMac hard drive. What is causing this problem? Does this have something to do with the fact that BOOTCAMP was installed on my computer? What should I do?
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    Contact Apple or your local AASP > Apple - Support - iMac - Service FAQ

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