Odd Macbook Charging Problem - Mid-2007 Macbook 13"

Just bought a 13" mid-2007 macbook, MB062LL/A. I also bought an 85W NEW OEM Magsafe charger. I put a new logic board, battery, and magsafe connector in the laptop and let it charge overnight. Its now green, but the battery isnt charged (15%). Now that I'm watching it, it will occasionally switch to orange and say 'charging', then go back to green. It occured to me that maybe the Charger is the problem ... Do I need to use the original 60W charger ? or does it matter?. I have reset the SMC, but have not performed calibration yet as battery is not fully charged.
Any suggestions? ... and 'No' the laptop has no warranty thru apple, I have done all the work myself.
Thanks in advance

Profiler says 17 cycles, but I just relaced this battery with a new OEM Genuine Apple battery.
I tried the SMC Reset, but that didnt help.
Also, I just noticed something else ... Everytime I turn it on I get the message "System Date/Time is earlier than 2008 ..." So I went in and unchecked the auto update opton and manually set the date time. Shut down and power up and Date/Time is reset back at 12/31/2000. It does this evertime I shutdown and turn back on.
Not sure if this is related, but it probably is somehow ...
Thanks for the reply

Similar Messages

Start up problem Mid 2007 MB

Hi! That is my first problem with my MB. This afternoon I was working on my MB trying to create a LAN with my sister´s new brand MB and suddenly my MB doesn´t respond so I just force it and shut it down. Then I try to start up again but just the gray screen and spinning cicle appers on it. I´ve already run the Apple Hardware Test (normal and complete) and both was normal, I did reset PRAM, SMC and my MB keep frozen... I´d connect it to another MB via firewire and was normal too...
What is wrong with my MB? I won´t worry or Should I?
Thank a lot an Merry Xmas...

Same problem-I connected to my apple external hard drive to back up last night and clicked 'burn hardrive to Time machine " and now I have a blank screen except once I reconnect my ext harddrive I see a question mark on the screen. Did I hit the wrong command when I "burned to hardrive"? or what bhappened and what do I do now?

Startup problem mid 2007 iMac

Can't get past login screen I just get the Beachball, I can access guest login

If you still have them use disc 2 from the original install discs that were delivered with the Mac and Using Apple Hardware Test - Apple Support, run AHT in extended mode 2-3 times back to back. If it finds errors (as I believe it will) that means the machine has suffered a hardware failure. The reason to run AHT multiple times is it does not always find errors after the first or second pass, however when it does they are correct.
Due to the computer being 8 years old, you may want to consider replacing it. However if it's only a hard disc that has crashed then you can take that to an Apple Authorized Service Provider and have it replaced if you want.

Nominal/Original battery charge capacity of genuine batteries for 13'' macbook (mid 2007)

Hello everyone,
I just wanted to ask which is the nominal battery charge of a genuine (from Apple) battery for a 13'' macbook (mid 2007). I have just bought a new one, and it has a nominal capacity of about 5500 mAh. I just would like to check if it is in good condition.
When my old battery stopped functioning I checked some information in the web and arrived to the followings conclusions:
Webpages:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batterie s
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
Conclusions:
- Lithium-based batteries have no memory charge effect. This means, that you don't need to be careful about charging-discharging the battery to 100% and 0% sometimes every 3 months. It also means that you can keep the battery in good health conditions not charging-discharging it at all.
- When you are not going to use your notebook for some months it is best to keep the battery at 40-50%charge (it radically increases your battery lifetime).
- It is also good to keep your battery at "low temperature" when not using it. It seems that 0-20ºC is ok. For example 40ºC is really bad for your battery.
If anyone has any comment about my "conclusions", it will be useful form me .
Thanks for the information in advance,
Jesus

Call Apple Customer Support 1-800-767-2775 (telephone numbers for other countries - http://support.apple.com/kb/HE57). Provide the serial number and specifications of the Mac. They may be able to provide a replacement set of discs for a fee. These discs will be for whatever OS was installed on the computer originally, so if you have an upgraded version you will need to obtain the discs some other way.
You may want to just upgrade to a newer system version. Snow Leopard 10.6 would be a good one for that computer but you would need to make sure it has enough RAM to run it. It would only cost $29 to get Snow Leopard from Apple and for the next 30-45 days until the next OS release in July it is still relatively up-to-date.
Get more information about your computer. Go to the Apple in the upper left corner of any window, then "About This Mac", then "More Info..." Copy and paste the information here, but omit the serial number and Hardware UUID (if present).
Snow Leopard 10.6 Technical Requirements - http://support.apple.com/kb/SP575 - note by K Shaffer - http://discussions.apple.com/message/12921514 : "Some early Intel-based Macs can't use Snow Leopard 10.6 installers; of those, the Core Duo (not 2 duo) were suspect and had issues." - and a qualifier by "a brody" http://discussions.apple.com/message/13028822 : "I think that refers to the ones without at least 1 GB of RAM."

Yellow gunk inside mid-2007 60W Macbook charger

My mid-2007 white Macbook's charger has stopped working.
I carefully prised it open to see if perhaps a repair might be a simple matter of replacing an obviously worn-out component on the circuit board.
Inside the plastic case and its aluminium (I think) liner, I found the PCB and components wrapped in a triple layer of copper foil, held in place with pale yellow adhesive tape. Once I had carefully peeled back the tape and removed the folded copper foil sheets, I could see the PCB and components. Or at least, I sort of could.
The reason I can't see them clearly is that they are partly covered with even more pale yellow adhesive tape, and also with a large quantity of pale yellow rigid gunk that looks and feels a lot like used, dried chewing gum. I'd estimate that more than half of the volume inside the charger not occupied by components was occupied by this gunk.
I've seen PCBs before that have been "potted" with potting compound (resin), and I've seen PCBs that have had larger components supported with blobs of hot glue or similar in order to reduce stress on the solder joints. This doesn't look like either. I wonder whether perhaps it is some kind of cement designed to give mechanical support, but that the person or machine responsible for applying it got a bit trigger happy! Unless it's some kind of miracle heat transfer compound, then I imagine this gunk might have causd a good deal of overheating within the case of the PSU by preventing convection currents from forming in what would otherwise have been airspace between components.
As for the extra adhesive tape, it seems to have been positioned so as to reduce the risk of metal-topped components (e.g. capacitors, coils) shorting out against the copper foil. If so, only some of the pieces - not all - have been installed correctly: there are a couple of small patches where the copper might have been able to touch a corners of a couple of metal-topped components.
Anyhow, my question: has anyone else found their charger to be full of gunk like this, or is mine abnormal?

Sorry for the long delay. Here is a photo of the charger, and one of the first layer of insulation and shielding (showing the inside). I note that the first layer of insulation/shielding has a scorch mark at the spot that had been closest to the component bolted to the heatsink near the top right of the circuit board (see arrows). That component seems to have three legs, so I guess it might be some kind of power transistor or voltage regulator.
And here are some photos showing the hardened gunk more clearly:
As you can see, it's a lot of gunk! Any ideas/explanations/suggestions gratefully received...

Macbook c2d mid 2007 shuts off immediatly after AC unplugged

Hi there,
I have a macbook mid 2007 that shuts down immediately after it is unplugged from AC. I've tried the battery on another machine and it works fine as well as trying a known good battery in this machine.Also I've tried a known good AC adapter. Other things I have done are run the hardware test which shows no errors, reset the smc and Pram, repaired permissions etc. the battery appears normal in the menu bar and says it is fully charged.Also it Appears in system information as normal.coconut battery also appears normal with 275 cycles.I'm hoping the problem lies in the Battery Connector with Sleep Switch and not the logic board. Anyone had any experience with this problem?
One other strange thing is that after unplugging the AC the system shuts down immediately, but once you plug it back in it starts without the power button being pressed.
thanks so much for any advice.

Hi Cory,
Sounds like you've already done a lot of troubleshooting yourself. As you've confirmed via your troubleshooting it sounds like it's something under the hood.
In terms of order of troubleshooting, it's probably worth checking out the MagSafe board after the Battery Connector/Sleep Switch. Both of those parts will run you less than $70, a whole lot cheaper than a logic board.
I've been servicing MacBooks since the week they went public and I'd say 85% of the time it's the cable (for an issue like this) versus a logic board.

Can my macbook pro mid 2007 3.1 AA896ll/a handle a SSD and how do I make the switch. Can I do a clean install of Snow Leopard from an original cd

Here is my problem, I want to upgrade my macbook pro mid 2007 3.1 AA896ll/a to an Solid State Drive, a Crucial m4 256 gb, I want to know if the macbook will be able to handle it and how do I do the switch. also once I install the drive will I be able to boot from my Snow Leoard original cd and do a clean install. Thank you

Coming from a 5,400 RPM drive that's nearly filled up, fragmented and deoptimized to a fresh install of OS X on a SSD will of course be a improvement.
However fresh installing OS X on a new 5,400 RPM will also see a improvement, boot up in 30 seconds.
A fresh install of OS X on a new 7,200 RPM drive will also see a improvement, boot up in 25 seconds.
A fresh install of OS X on a new SSD will see the best improvement, boot up in 20 seconds on fast SATA connections.
OS X still requires time to setup and that takes about 20 seconds despite how fast your boot drive is, that's why sleep was created.
Things to consider: The higher cost of a SSD, the limiting capacity (hard drives hold way more up), the SATA I speed limitations (slows up on large file transfers), the difficulty to scrub the SSD of unwanted data (like you can a hard drive), and it's limited write capability. Also the smaller SSD's are faster than the larger ones.
SSD's are shock proof, which is their slight advantage over hard drives.
I see a 120GB SSD in a SATA I machine as being a waste, it's too small of a storage space (500GB+ is ideal), the SATA I connection is slow and other factors that make a 7,200 RPM drive a better option in that machine.
One can get a 750 GB 7,200 RPM hard drive for about the same price and still maximize their boot time in the process, also being able to scrub their drive of unwanted data easily.
SSD's can't be scrubbed, one has to fill 50% of the remaining space with many, very small files to overwrite the free space, then do another 50% again to defeat the Trim/wear leveling as SSD's write to less used location each time. If one fills a OS X boot drive up completely, it won't function or won't boot up.
If you do this fill routine regularly with software, then you prematurely wear out the SSD as it has limited writes. Why Disk Utility doesn't offer zero or 7x erase for SSD's.
If your in the 10% of Internet traffic that's going to adult sites, then the ability to scrub the caches and storage drive of embarrassing unwanted data is a necessity. Especially in the light of software and hardware that can read the SSD of deleted data.
Trick links and redirects on poisoned sites can firebomb your Mac with some pretty bad pictures and your hidden caches as well, especially if you don't like to pay.
IT personal have at their disposal free open source forensic software that basically aggregates all the past behavior done on the machine into a nice, easy to view format with times, dates and when and where content was downloaded from.
Since one has to give up their password for repair folks to recover data and fix the machine...
I think a SSD is less of a benefit over a 7,200 hard drive for that particular model of Mac for a mere few seconds faster boot time.

I can only run Windows on my Mid 2007 MacBook Pro :(

So, a weird thing happened recently. A friend of mine was trying to get his old PowerMac G4 working, but his DVD drive wasn't working, so I booted my computer into Target Disk mode so that we could restore his computer using my DVD drive. After we were able to get it installed, I tried to reboot my computer back into Mountain Lion. Upon restarting the computer, I noticed that the OS wouldn't boot. After playing with that for a little while, I backed up my files onto another iMac (again, using Target Disk mode) and tried to reinstall the OS. When I put in the Mountain Lion DVD and tried to boot from it, it didn't work. So I tried my Lion disk, also didn't work. Tried Snow Leopard and was able to get it to install, but I wasn't able to use my keyboard and mouse upon getting to the "Select Language" screen. I finally thought "screw this" and made an appointment with an Apple Genius (who was quite helpful) at the Apple Store near me. I showed up and we tried a bunch of things to no avail. He ran the Apple Hardware Test and that nothing was wrong with the computer. I did have non-apple RAM in my computer, so we tried switching that out. No luck. I also told him that I switched Hard Drives to another 320 GB to try and see if that was the problem. That wasn't the fix either. After trying all of that stuff, I tried installing Windows 7, and ironically enough (since its an Mac), and it worked. I am now using my Mid 2007 MacBook Pro with Windows 7 only and I still can't install MacOS (which I miss big time!). The Genius said that he had never seen this before and was at a loss (couldn't think of another thing to try). Instead of leaving it with them, I took it home with me as I needed a computer for School as I am a High School Teacher. I also am a bit of a Computer Engineering guy (built my own computers, been installing OSes for 10 - 15 years, etc) and while I like to consider myself a modest person, I will call myself a self proclaimed expert.
Has anyone heard / seen this happen?
I've searched high and low on the internet for this and haven't found anything. ****, even the Genius has never heard of anything and gave me his business card and told me to drop him a line if I am able to figure out the problem.
I'm really hoping someone can help me shed some light on this subject as I feel like I have tried completely everything.
Thanks in advance,
Todd

Take your MBP to an Apple store genius bar for a free diagnostic examination. Since these symptoms are 'regular' and not intermittent, they should be able to determine what the problem is and the cure.
ciao.

Replacing a failed hard drive on a mid-2007 white macbook

Replacing a SECOND failed hard drive on a mid-2007 white macbook (Intel core duo 2.16GHz), this time on my own
Need to purchase a serial ATA drive, but I keep reading that trying to format and/or partition the drive for use with the original Tiger install disk is unsuccessful and that I would have to update to a newer OS before I can do that.
I have Leopard as the current OS, and that is in my backup files from Time Machine, but I do not have a disk with Leopard.
Wondering the best course of action and/or if someone had success wit ha particular Serial ATA using the Tiger disks
Thanks!

All Intel Macs have always use SATA drives, so all Intel versions of OS X support them including Tiger. I don't know what you've been reading. However, since you have Leopard I don't see what the problem would be because you don't need to install Tiger unless your Leopard disk is strictly an updater disc.
How to replace or upgrade a drive in a laptop
Step One: Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger, Leopard or Snow Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Step Two: Remove the old drive and install the new drive. Place the old drive in an external USB enclosure. You can buy one at OWC who is also a good vendor for drives.
Step Three: Boot from the external drive. Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager appears. Select the icon for the external drive then click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Step Four: New Hard Drive Preparation
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder.
2. After DU loads select your new hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Step Five: Clone the old drive to the new drive
1. Open Disk Utility from the Utilities folder.
2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
4. Check the box labeled Erase destination.
5. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it to the Destination entry field.
6. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to the Source entry field.
7. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means the new internal drive. Source means the old external drive.
Step Six: Open the Startup Disk preferences and select the new internal volume. Click on the Restart button. You should boot from the new drive. Eject the external drive and disconnect it from the computer.

MacBook (Mid 2007)

Is a MacBook (Mid 2007) compatiable with snow leopard?

Sorry. Unfortunately, I only speak English with a translator
Google. I will try to explain my problem is easier ..
I have an old MacBook release mid-2007. Memory it has 2 GB. So I would like you to know whether you can buy and install .. 4GB of memory?
Thank you!
Hard drive - 250 GB. Divided into 2 sections and installed 2 operating system Snow Leopard 10.6 and 10.7 Lion
Hardware: Here are details of my MacBook
   Model Name: MacBook
   Identifier: MacBook2, 1
   Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
   Processor speed: 2.16 GHz
   Number of Processors: 1
   Total number of cores: 2
   Cache Level 2: 4 MB
   Memory: 2 GB
   Bus Speed: 667 MHz
   Version of the Boot ROM: MB21.00A5.B07
   Version of the SMC (system): 1.17f0
   Serial Number (system): W87207PYYA3
   Hardware UUID: 00000000-0000-1000-8000-001B631CF9C4
   Sudden Motion Sensor:
   Status: Enabled

How do I get past question mark on macbook (mid 2007)?

Hello, I am trying to fix a Macbook 13" (mid 2007) for a friend. I believe the hard drive (120gb 5400rpm) had failed because I could hear the read/write heads clicking. It was also displaying a flashing folder with a question mark. I installed a WD Black 320gb 7200rpm drive (I no longer hear a clicking noise) but the system still displays a flashing folder with a question mark - which is understandable since there's no operating system installed. My problem is that after following the instructions I've read on the internet to boot from the DVD (turn on power while pressing the C key), I still cannot get past the flashing folder with a question mark. My friend gave me an OS X install DVD (Version 10.6.3 Snow Leopard) that he said he thinks came with the macbook. I doubt that it did, considering the date on the DVD is 2010 and additinal research indicates the original operating system should have been 10.4.9 or 10.4.10. Anyway, I've tried to get the macbook to boot from the DVD and while I can hear it momentarily spin up a couple of times, it eventually ejects the DVD. I'm not sure if I'm following the correct steps, the version of OS X on the DVD given to me is not compatible with this macbook, or there is something else wrong. I'm willing to try a few more things to install OS X before accepting defeat and giving it back, so any information would be appreciated.

A flashing question mark or globe appears when you start your Mac
Question (?) Mark, Blinking Folder, or Gray Screen at Startup
These are related but not identical issues. Their causes are outlined in Intel-based Mac- Startup sequence and error codes, symbols. Solutions may be found in:
A flashing question mark appears when you start your Mac
Mac OS X- Gray screen appears during startup
In most cases the problems may be caused by one or more of these:
a. Problem with the computer's PRAM - See Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM.
b. Boot drive's directory has been corrupted - Repair with Disk Utility.
c. Critical system files are damaged or deleted - Reinstall OS X.
d. The disk drive is physically non-functional - Replace the hard drive.
Note that the information I have provided is what Apple recommends, If other users suggest different solutions than found here, then be sure what they recommend does not impact on your warranty, if any, or ability to get continuing Apple service.
Please don't start removing drives or changing cables unless you know what you are doing and have exhausted other non-invasive alternatives outlined here. If you perform any work yourself that is unapproved by Apple, then you will void any warranty you may have and lose all further Apple Support.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
The main difference if you are using Lion or Mountain Lion is that you must first boot from the Recovery HD. Simply boot from the Recovery HD to perform the above.
Reinstall Snow Leopard Without Erasing The drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
Reinstalling Lion/Mountain Lion Without Erasing The Drive
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion: Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.

Boots only in Safe Mode - Macbook mid 2007

My Macbook mid 2007 with Snow Leopard will not boot correctly. The only successful means is Safe Mode (key S during boot).
All measures published in various postings have been conducted without any peripheral devices. These are:
verify harddisc
verify RAM
resetting PRAM and NVRAM
A detailled overview can be found under here.
The existing original RAM and harddisc were successfully tested using a second identical Macbook. A new installation of Snow Leopard on the harddisc using the second Macbook was successful and started in this second Macbook as expected. This harddisc was then inserted into my Macbook, but it would not boot. Hence it is safe to exclude problems with RAM and the harddisc.
Attempts to boot with the Snow Leopard DVD (either via C plus boot or Option during boot and select Install DVD) are not successful. Attempts to boot from an external drive are also not successful. The boot process (regular, DVD, external) progresses to different states including grey screen with Apple and frozen wheel. There is no consistency.
From the various postings I have found and studied along with my numerous tests, I have deduced the following possibilities:
There is a problem with the GPU.
There is a problem with the keyboard (maybe someone spilled something).
I have found numerous solutions for "boots only in Safe Mode". All include booting via Install DVD, but this does not work in my case.
I have exhausted all my possibilities. Hopefully someone can provide more insight.

lruetimann wrote:
What I am not able to test is booting with an external CD/DVD drive. However, there is no indication that the built-in drive is malfunctioning.
If you have a second MacBook (#2 working OK), you could use its CD/DVD drive loaded with the 10.6 DVD as the target disk to boot into, as the first Macbook (#1 the troubled one) reportedly cannot see a 10.6 DVD normally.
How to use and troubleshoot FireWire target disk mode
In your case this would be:
With the MacBook(1) on (Host), the MacBook(2) off (Target) connect the firewire cable.
Start the MacBook(2), hold T key to make it the boot drive. It will appear on the MacBook's(1) Desktop.
Insert the 10.6 Install DVD into the MacBook(2).
It too will appear on the MacBook's(1) Desktop.
From the MacBook(1), select Restart and hold down the Option key to select Start-up Manager.
From Start-up Manager, select the 10.6 Install DVD which will take you into the installation.
If this occurs, then you have booted into the install 10.6 DVD, From there you could try and install it, see what happens.
However, if it does not see the DVD disk, then this would indicate a defect in the logicboard (motherboard), though which component I would not guess.
If it does see the DVD, in Macbook (2) and can boot into it,… I'd be surprised!

Can't Transfer my info from Imac( mid-2007) to my macbook pro (mid-2009)

Hello,
i bought a macbook pro today and I'm having trouble transferring my data from my Imac(mid-2007) to my macbook pro. I do not own a firewire cable unless it comes with the computer? I was doing it wirelessly and after i entered the code said it was transsferring data. But after a minute it cam up with this notice,"There was an error connecting to the network, and the information on the other Mac couldn't be accessed." What should i do? Does anyone else have this problem? Did you fix it?
Thanks!
-cobras7

You can make the transfer using an Ethernet cable. From you machine description, I can't tell if you will need a crossover (Ethernet) cable or not. Here is the info you will need to do the transfer via Ethernet.
1. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1433
2. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2274?viewlocale=en_US

MacBook Pro (mid 2007) freezes after upgrade to Mavericks

Hello,
After the upgrade to Mavericks my MacBook Pro (mid 2007) freezes after a couple of minutes of usage - after successful install and the use of some apps. Not bad enough the system is now always crashing if I try to boot. PM reset didn't help. Booting from the restore partition was possible, but I decided to go back to a working backup of 10.8.4 made a minute before I tried to upgrade. Why 10.8.4? Because 10.8.5 causes the strange problem that the Mac freezes after wake up from sleep.
Any suggestions?
Anyone else having this problem?
Kind regards

I did a clean install of mavericks on my MBP (mid 2007) and still it freezes at arbitary points. The very first time when it booted up it worked for longer and when I started to apply updates from app store, it froze. Successive boots froze much early, like within few seconds of booting.
I am going to check this by booting in safe mode. I am losing hope with mavericks on my MBP (mid 2007) and will switch back to snow leopard (10.6.8) which was working seemless.
I checked so many things, based on other posts to make sure if my MBP is really Mid 2007. IT IS.
Rgds,
Raj.

I have a mid 2007 MacBook Pro with 2GB of RAM and NVIDIA GeForce 8600M graphics. Is it possible to upgrade the RAM and the graphics card?

I have a mid 2007 MacBook Pro with 2GB of RAM and NVIDIA GeForce 8600M graphics card. Is it possible to upgrade the RAM and the graphics card?

The RAM can be upgraded as indicated below. The Graphics card can not be upgraded.
Maximum Memory
6.0 GB (Actual) 4.0 GB (Apple)
Memory Slots
2 - 200-pin PC2-5300 (667MHz) DDR2 SO-DIMM

Odd Macbook Charging Problem - Mid-2007 Macbook 13"

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