Overclocking a Core i7 920 with X58 Platinum: Advice needed!
Hello everyone,
Just got my Core i7 920 and I would like to see how far I can take it with the hardware that I have. Although I've read countless overclocking articles over the years (mainly on Tom's Hardware), this is actually going to be my first time doing it. So I guess this makes me a n00b....
So, here is my hardware setup:
CM Storm Scout Case
Intel Core i7 920
MSI X58 Platinum
Coolit Systems Domino CPU Water Cooling System
G.SKILL 6GB DDR3-1600 CL 9-9-9-24
ASUS GeForce 9500GT Top
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad 750W
I've already tried fiddling around the BIOS and also tried the DIP switches on the MOBO (tried the 166 settings). At this point I'm guessing I'll have to turn off some options in the BIOS or something because CPU-Z is reporting different Core Speed, multiplier and QPI Link every 2 second.
For the record, I'm not necessarily trying to break 4Ghz with this overclock... just wanna take advantage of this 920 and the CoolIt Domino; anything stable between 3.2 and 3.8GHz and I'm happy
Depends on the type of blue screen you get.
The way I under stand it is if the errors end with 124 ie 0x0000124 this is most likely QPI related.
This is taken from the evga forums and I am only posting as a reference.. The Credit belongs to Freemortal at evga. Not everythign applies to the MSI boards but the important ones do.
This guide is an attempt to assemble as much info about the various i7 voltages you can change in the BIOS. I can't do it alone though. This community has a wealth of information on the subject. Please post what you know and I'll add it to the first post here. Please make it as concise as possible.
If you believe any of this information to be inaccurate, let me know.
NOTE: This guide is applies specifically to the "EVGA X58 SLI" motherboard released in 2008. Most of this info also applies to other X58 motherboards as well but some labels and tolerances may be different depending on the make. This guide assumes you use a high quality, after-market heatsink and fan. Do not raise voltages with the stock cooler!
THE VOLTAGES
Caution: The voltage you set is not necessarily the voltage you get. Furthermore the voltage you read is not necessarily accurate either. The Eleet utility (along with any other software monitoring utility) will simply report what the motherboard tells it to report. When measured independently, these readings are close, but not entirely accurate.
VCore (default: 1.28125v, Intel's max 1.375v, VCore over 1.50v on air cooling is risky)
What it does:
Sets max voltage to the CPU cores. (if Vdroop is disabled, it will set the min voltage instead) The i7 doesn't need much voltage at speeds under 3.8ghz. (For example, I can get 3.8ghz on 1.275 vcore) Beyond that the voltage requirements climb sharply.
When to raise VCore:
* BSOD 101 "Clock Interrupt not received from Secondary Processor"
* LinX produces errors that are very
* LinX errors happen within 1 min of LinX
* LinX produces BSOD within the first minute
You know VCore is too high when:
* CPU cores approach a peak of 85c on full load
* It is unknown how higher voltages may impact the life of the CPU
CPU VTT Voltage (default: 1.1V (+0mV in BIOS) Intel's max 1.35 (+250mV)
What it does:
VTT connects the cores with the memory. Raising VTT helps keep a system stable at higher QPI rate. Since QPI is calculated from bclk: the higher the bclk the more VTT voltage you will need. VTT is also called "QPI/DRAM Core" on other motherboards,
Prevent CPU damage: VTT voltage must be within 0.5V of VDimm. Vdimm can fluctuate by as much as 0.05V from settings so you may want VTT within 0.45V of VDimm for that extra margin of safety. Example: if Vdimm is 1.65V, then VTT must be at least 1.20V.
When to raise CPU VTT Voltage:
* BSOD 124 "general hardware failure"
* LinX errors happen only after 10 min or more
* LinX hangs but does not BSOD
* LinX reboots without BSOD
You know CPU VTT Voltage is too high when:
* Most users try and stay below 1.45V (+350V) for 24/7 use without additional direct cooling.
* The motherboard doesn't read the temp so you may need an IR thermometer to be sure you are not pushing VTT too far.
CPU PLL VCore (default: 1.800V, spec range: 1.65V-1.89V)
What it does:
Keeps CPU clock in-sync with bclk.
When to raise CPU PLL VCore:
* May help with stability while increasing the bclk or CPU multiplier.(or may make it worse)
* May help with stability past 210 bclk if you observe that during runtime the QPI Link (found in E-Leet) bounces too much.
* Not a commonly raised. May actually cause instability. Test this variable alone.
You know CPU PLL VCore s too high when:
* Its possible you could actually gain stability by lowering this.
DIMM Voltage (default: 1.5V, Intel's max 1.65)
What it does:
Voltage to the RAM. Despite Intel's warnings, you can raise voltage beyond 1.65 as long as it is always within 0.5V of VTT (as described above).
When to raise DIMM Voltage :
* High performance/gaming RAM usually requires at least 1.65v to run at spec. Some manage to get it slightly lower.
* Stable bclks over 180 often require VDIMM beyond 1.65V. Remember to keep VTT voltage within 0.5V of VDIMM.
You know DIMM Voltage is too high when:
* Memory is too hot. [more info on this is needed]
DIMM DQ Vref (default: +0mV)
What it does:
It is the reference voltage for a pseudo-differential transmission line. The DQ signals sent by the memory controller on the i7 should swing between logic-hi and logic-lo voltages centered around VREF. VREF is typically half way between the drain and source voltages on the RAM. Most VREF generator circuits are designed to center between the VDD and VSS voltages on the RAM. There is usually temperature compensation built into the circuitry as well.
When to raise DIMM DQ Vref:
* Vref might be adjusted if (after measurement) it was determined not to be properly centered between VDD and VSS of the DIMM. Without a good osciloscope it's difficult to imagine that most users could set VREF correctly. They may be able to set VREF empirically by moving it up or down and checking for POST or BSOD problems.
Further reading:
http://download.micron.com/pdf/technotes/ddr2/TN4723.pdf The document is for DDR2 but differential signaling is a topic that transcends memory models. It has been done for decades in high-end systems and the advantages/drawbacks are well understood.
QPI PLL VCore (default: 1.1v, <1.4v is pretty safe)
What it does:
Keeps on-chip memory controller in-sync with bclk.
When to raise QPI PLL VCore:
* Try raising this along with Vcore and VTT, but in smaller increments.
* Helps stabilize higher CPU Uncore frequencies and QPI frequencies (in CPU feature)
* Try raising this when you increase memory clock speed via multiplier.
* Try raising when LinX produces errors after a few minutes without BSOD
IOH Vcore (default: 1.1V)
What it does:
Sets voltage for on-chip north bridge which connects PCIE2.0, GPU, Memory, and CPU.
When to raise IOH VCore:
* Possibly needed if you overclock your north bridge (via bclk and CPU Uncore freq.)
You know IOH VCore is too high when:
* Memory errors? (just a guess)
* GPU intensive apps like 3dmark vantage crash. (another guess)
IOH/ICH I/O Voltage (default: 1.5V)
What it does:
some sort of on-chip bus voltage. unknown
ICH Vcore (default: 1.05V)
What it does:
South Bridge chip on the motherboard. Connects all motherboard features, cards (not PCIE2.0), and drives to CPU/memory on IOH
When to raise ICH Vcore:
* I don't know if raising this can help in overclocking at all. Possibly necessary in order to keep up with an overclocked northbridge?
You know ICH Vcore is too high when:
* unknown. I wouldn't overvolt it too much though.
PWM Frequency (default: 800)
What it does:
unknown
When to raise PWM Frequency:
* Overclocking beyond 4.2ghz
You know PWM Frequency is too high when:
* VREG approaches 85c
VDroop (default: enabled)
What it does:
Safety feature designed by Intel to protect the chip from excessive wear from voltage spikes. Enabling VDroop keeps actual voltage running below the VCore setting in BIOS
What does disabling VDroop do?
* Makes VCore setting the minimum value for actual voltage; CPU will run at higher voltages than what you set in BIOS.
* Disabling VDroop is the same as enabling Load Line Calibration on other x58 boards.
Why would I want to disable VDroop?
* Some overclockers use it because it allows them to get a high overclock while setting lower VCore in BIOS. This is because the running voltage is actually higher than what was set in BIOS. Disabling VDroop keeps actual voltage higher than what is set for VCore in the BIOS. Enabling Vdroop keeps actual voltage lower than VCore.
* It might help if you are pushing the bleeding edge.
Diagnosing errors. What to do when...
BSODs
* BSOD "IRQL_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL" (I forget)
* BSOD 101 "Clock Interrupt not received from Secondary Processor" Try raising VCore
* BSOD 124 "general hardware failure" Try raising VTT
LinX Errors
If you get an error you would have x same (correct) results and 1 different (an error):
* If the incorrect result differs slightly from the rest (numbers very close, same powers in Residual & Residual (norm)) it is most likely that there's not enough vcore. In this case only a small vcore bump is usually needed to stabilize the system (alternatively, Vtt & GTL tweaking can sometimes fix this too)
* If the wrong result differs much from the others (different power or even positive power in Residual or Residual (norm)) it might be 1) insufficient vcore (the error would happen at the very first runs then) or 2) some memory / NB instability (when it worked for say 10 minutes ok and then produced a different result)
More serious LinX errors:
* BSOD during testing (at the very first runs) is often caused by too low vcore
* System hangs and remains hung it is almost 100% not a CPU but memory or possibly NB issue
* System reboots (with no hang prior to reboot and no BSOD) - a CPU issue, but not vcore related (insufficient PLL or Vtt I guess)
* System hangs for a short while and then BSODs - once again NB or memory problem (but might be wrong Vtt / GTL setting as well)
* System hangs and then just reboots - wrong Vtt (too low or too high) or GTL settings
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Xmas still have a few days ahead..but Santa had filled my Xmas stocking..... ...with MSI X58 Eclipse ( bios 1.34 ), Core i7 920 at 1.4vcore, Corsair TR3X3G1600C9 at 1600mhz 1.65vdimm, HSF Noctua NH-U12P SE1366, MSI R4870T2D1G-OC, Corsair TX650w, WDGP640gb, DVR216BK, CM690, and Synmaster T220. So..i tried to make a quick & simple test with my new toys..and here the temporal result : 4ghz very easily and stable...
feeewww...guys...this board are ...have more than enough OC's ability ...MSI made a very good board with this...
cheers...
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Hi,
I need help on how to overclock MSI Eclipse Plus with Intel Core i7 920?
Here are my system spec.
MSI Eclipse Plus
Antec Quattro 850W PSU
Corsair TR3X6G1600C9
120GB Sata HDD
RgdsWith a stock Intel CPU cooler, I don't recommend going past what default voltages can achieve, excluding maybe a memory voltage increase or timings adjustment if needed. Some utilities are very important to have before starting to OC such as Real Temp & CPU-Z. What are your CPU & IOH temps reading in bios H/W Monitor? The temps of the individual cores is also very important, which Real Temp will provide you with.
As mentioned, with a stock cooler, I would suggest not going past about 3.507 (bclk 167 X 21). Other settings need to be changed before this is done however. We need those temps too, before specific settings can be suggested. The last thing any of us want to do, is make settings changes & voltage recommendations that may damage your system. -
Just to explain that i purchased the following computer from a firm in UK, returned it twice due to wrong computer delivered and then broken on delivery. Finally got this computer which was supposed to be overclocked, but is not. The company I bought it from gone bust so lucky to get computer (few bits improved by company in respect of delays!).
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Stated with MSI overclocking software but having read forums have removed it! Read that several people could easily just up Base Clock to 166Mhz. Thought I would give that a go.....No joy there thought the computer had bust! would not even post. Despite this set back still determined to get some overclock. Decided to start lower and went for 150Mhz. Everything is still working!
Now I would like to do better but this is where I am somewhat confused and need guidence as I am rather worried by talk of voltage and QPI clock!
Having gone through all of the bios settings I am a little lost! So if some kind person could just advise me on my next step. I do not want to do a massive overclock but getting up to about 3.5 would I think be the most for a novice like me?
Computer:
Intel I7 920 2.66Ghz
OCZ Vendetta 2 CPU cooler fan
MSI X58 Platinum Motherboard
Corsair Tri Channel 6gb kit 1600mhz C9
Zotec GTX 295 1792mb
Vista Home Premium 64 bit
Coolermaster HAF case
Coolermaster Real Power M 1000W Modular
Sata 1.5TB hard drives *2
Some bios settings that I think may be important!
Intel EIST Auto
Intel C-state Tech Disabled
Base clock 150
Intel Turbo Boost tech Enabled
Memory ratio auto
Adjusted dram freq 1500
QPI Links Speed Full Speed
QPI Frequency 4.800GT
Have used Everest Ultimate (trial Version) to get some readings:
Using CPUID Normal Stress
Core Voltage 1.064v 1.248v
CPU Clock 1807.4mhz 3163.1mhz
Multiplier *12 *21
QPI Clock 150.6mhz 150.6mhz
Memory type triple channel ddr3-1205 sdram (8-8-8-19)
Memory Clock 602.5mhz
Dram FSB ratio 4:1
Temperature readings (again slightly confused here due to difference between cpu temp and core temps)
At idle: Core 35c CPU 24c Motherbpard 31c
During stress test:
Min MAX
Motherboard 30 31
CPU 23 57
Core 1 35 75
Core 2 32 75
Core 3 34 75
Core 4 34 76
Voltages CPU core 1.06 1.25
Ambient temperature 18c
I think these are ok, but what about further overclocking?
Any advice gratefully received!Hi again,
Well I know other people with this motherboard are keeping up with this thread so here is the latest in my quest to achieve an overclock of 3.5
With enormous thanks to Joker who suggested a range of settings, mainly to do with voltages, I did attempt an overclock of 180BCLK but this would not even post. Bringing it down to 175 and using either uncore ratio of 8 or 9 I managed to get into windows and start Everest. But as soon as I commenced a stress test the blue screen appeared with the dumping of memory. Tried lowering the BCLK down to 160 but still no joy.
During testing I have tried CPU voltage up to 1.6
QPI up to 1.8
PLL 1.85
DRAM 1.65
IOH 1.12
ICH 1.52
Below are my settings which I have reverted to (150 BCLK) which do work (again thanks to joker and HU16E)
ADVANCED BIOS FEATURES
Ful Screen Log display Enabled
Quick Booting Enabled
Boot Up Num Lock On
IOAPIC Function Enabled
MPS Table Version 1.4
Primary Graphics Adapter PCI-E
PCI Latency Timer 64
CPU FEATURE
Hyper-Threading Function Enabled
Execute Bit Support Disabled
Set Limit CPUID MaxVal to 3 Disabled
C1E Support Disabled
Overspeed Protection Disabled
CHIPSET FEATURE
HPET Disabled
BOOT SEQUENCE
1ST Boot Device Sata: PM-ST3150
2ND Boot Device Sata: SM-ST3150
3rd Boot Device CD/DVD: SS-ASUS
Boot From Other Device Yes
TRUSTED COMPUTING
TCG/TPM Support No
CELL MENU
Current Core Frequency 3.00GHz (150*20)
Current DRAM Frequency 1200MHz
Current QPI Frequency 4.800GT
CPU Specifications
IntelI7 920 @2.67GHz
CPUID/MicroCode 106A4/0f
Core Frequency 2666MHZ
CPU Ratio 20
CPU Stepping C0
Cache L1 128 KB
Cache L2 1024 KB
Cache L3 8192 KB
Core VID N/A
Current core VID 1.272 V
Core Number 4
Intel EIST Enabled
Intel C-STATE tech Disabled
Base Clock MHz 150
Intel turbo boost Tech Enabled
Adjusted core Frequency MHz 3000
QPI Configuration
QPI Link Speed Full Speed
QPI Frequency 4.800GT
Memory z
Dimm1 Memory SPD Information
Memory Type: DDR3 Sdram
Max Bandwidth: DDR£-1332 (666Mhz)
Manufacture: Corsair
Part Number: CM3X2G1600C9
Serila Number: 00
SDRAM Cycle Time: 1.500ns (1clk)
DRAM TCL: 13.500NS (9CLK)
DRAM TRCD 13.500NS (9CLK)
DRAM TRP: 13.500 (9CLK)
DRAM TRAS: 36.0NS (24CLK)
DRAM TRFC: 110.0NS (73CLK)
DRAM TWR: 15.0NS (10CLK)
DRAM TWTR: 7.500NS (5CLK)
DRAM TRRD: 7.500NS (5CLK)
DRAM TRTP: 7.500NS (5CLK)
DIMM 3 MEMORY SPD SUPPORT INFORMATION: AS DIMM 1
DIMM 5 MEMORY SPD SUPPORT INFORMATION: AS DIMM 1
X.M.P. Support Info
Max Bandwidth: DDR3-1600 (800Mhz)
Memory Voltage: 1.65v
Sdram Cycle Time: 1.250ns (1clk)
Dram TCL: 11.250ns(9clk)
Dram TRCD: 11.250(9clk)
Dram TRP: 11.250ns(9CLK)
Dram TRAS: 30.0ns(24clk)
Dram TRFC: 110.0ns(88CLK)
Dram TWR: 15.0ns(12CLK)
Dram TWTR: 7.500ns(6CLK)
Dram TRRD: 7.500ns(6clk)
Dram TRTP: 7.500ns(6clk)
ADVANCE DRAM CONFIGURATIOM
1N/2n Memory Timing Auto
CAS Latency (CL) Auto
tRCD Auto
tRP Auto
tRAS Auto
Advanced Memory Setting Auto
Extreme Memory Profile Disabled
Memory Ratio 4
Adjusted DRAM Frequency MHz 1200
Uncore Ratio 8
Adjusted Uncore Frequency MHz 2400
ClockGen Tuner
CPU Amplitude Control 800mV
PCI Express Amplitude Control 800mV
CPU CLK Skew Normal
IOH CLK Skew Normal
Adjust PCI Frequency MHz 37.3
Adjust PCI-E Frequency MHz 100
Auto Disable DRAM/PCI Frequency Enabled
CPU Voltage V +0.100
Cpu vcore 1.272 v
CPU PLL Voltage V Auto
QPI Voltage v +0.100
Dram Voltage v 1.50
DDR_ VREF_CA_A AUTO
DDR_VREF_CA_B AUTO
DDR_VREF_CA_C AUTO
DDR_VREF_DQ_A AUTO
DDR_VREF_DQ_B AUTO
DDR_VREF_DQ_C AUTO
NB VOLTAGE AUTO
ICH VOLTAGE 1.52
Spead Spectrum Disabled
Has anyone else using this motherboard had similar problem? -
Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !
Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
- MSI X58 Platinum SLI ( Bios Version 3.8 - http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6707/161020101249.jpg )
- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
- Corsair CMPSU-750TXEU
- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product -
I have not been able to find any thread yet dedicated to the overclocking of the MSI X58 Platinum motherboard. I am having a great deal of difficulties using the v1.1 BIOS. If you have successful settings please post the here. I would expect that this will be a popular mobo because of its price. Thank you
I read this on a neoseeker review of the eclipse. Granted it's a different version of the msi x58 but some of the info might be useful.
Quote
To get to the maximum stable overclock, 4.095GHz, all I had to do was:
* Set the memory multiplier to "3" (actually 6)
* Set memory timing to 7-7-7-20-1T
* Fix PCI at 37.3MHz
* disable spread spectrum
* Enable EIST
* disable C-state
* Enable "Turbo" boost
* set base clock to 195MHz
* set QPI to Full-Speed
* leave it at 4.8GT
* use a Noctua NH-U12P with their new Socket 1366 adapter
I did not have to change the voltages at all!
Full review here: http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/msi_x58_eclipse/
I have no idea why setting the pci freq to 37 would help... maybe to disable auto clocking? Well, at any rate..
Hope it helps! -
[MSI X58A-GD65] Overclocking, stabilizing and testing a Core i7 920
Greetings,
I have overlcoked my i7 920 to 4.000 MHZ and I would like to run some tests just to be sure about it's stability.
The RAMS have been succesfully tested with Memtest86+ which is included in Ubuntu 11.10 distributions.
However, blue screens rarely occur.
If my current knowledge does not deceive me:
a) The more volts the more stability, heat and power consumption rate
b) Green/eco, less power consumption, Intel states are cr*p, right? I use a Power Wattage meter and the watt consumption does not fall below 400 Watts (it's the same when it's overclocked).
c) In my own experience Intel Turbo (21x Multiplier), states cause instability
Full System Specs:
Case: Coolermaster Cosmos RC1000
PSU: Coolermaster M850
M/B: MSI X58A-GD65
CPU: Intel Core i7 920 2.66 GHZ
CPU Cooler: Coolermaster V8
RAM: OCZ Core i7 Edition 8-8-8-24 1600 MHZ
VGA: Sapphire Radeon HD4870 1GB
HDD:
a) Intel SSD 80GB Postville
b) 2x Western Digital WD1002FAEX Caviar Black 1 TB [SATA 3] [Raid 0]
c) 1x Western Digital WD1001FALS Caviar Black 1 TB [SATA 2]
d) 1x Western Digital WD6402AAEX Caviar Black 640GB [SATA 3]
Full Current overclock settings:
CPU Features:
Code: [Select]
Intel EIST: Disabled
Intel C-State: Disabled
C1E Support: Disabled
Overspeed Protection: Disabled
Hyper-threading function: Enabled
Execute bit support: enabled
Set Limit CPUID MaxVal to 3: Disabled
Intel Virtualization Tech: Enabled
Intel VT-d tech: Enabled
Overclock Settings:
Code: [Select]
Adjust CPU Base Frequency (MHZ): 200
Adjust CPU Ratio: 20
DRAM Timing Mode: Auto
Extreme Memory Profile: Profile 1
Extreme Memory Profiles Mode: Advanced
Memory Ratio: 4
Adjusted DRAM Frequency (MHZ): 1600
Uncore Ratio: 8
Adjusted Uncore Frequency (MHZ): 3200
Adjust PCI Frequency (MHZ): Auto
Adjuest PCI-E Frequency (MHZ) 100
Auto Disable PCI/PCI-E Frequency: Enabled
QPI Configuration:
Code: [Select]
QPI Links Speed: Full-speed
QPI Frequency: 4.800GT
Clockgen Tuner
Code: [Select]
CPU Amplitude Control: 800mv
PCI Express Amplitude: 800mv
CPU CLK Skew: Normal
IOH CLK Skew: Normal
Voltage Settings:
Code: [Select]
VDroop Control: High VDroop
CPU Voltage (V): [0+300]
CPU PLL Voltage (V): 1.96
QPI Voltage (V): 1.35
DRAM Voltage (V): 1.65
DRAM_VREF_CA_A (V): Auto
DRAM_VREF_CA_B (V): Auto
DRAM_VREF_CA_C (V): Auto
DRAM_VREF_DQ_A (V): Auto
DRAM_VREF_DQ_B (V): Auto
DRAM_VREF_DQ_C (V):Auto
IOH Voltage (V): 1.30
ICH Voltaga (V): 1.65
Spread Spectrum: Disabled
Looking for more advice/suggestions about getting more stability and performance
I know that overclocking is dangerous and can damage/destroy/cook the components such as the CPU, RAMS etc.
However, whatever happens it's my responsibilityWhy are you using X.M.P. with Memory and Uncore being adjusted manually? What are the random BSOD codes? VDroop should be set to Low. PLL and CPU V. seem to be ridiculously high for a 4.0 OC. What does CPUID's CPU-Z utility show for CPU voltage? PLL, IOH, and ICH should only require the Auto setting.
Uncheck Automatically restart;
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