Pan-Scan and Letterbox??????

What is the difference in the Display Mode of 16x9 Pan-Scan then 16x9 Pan-Scan and Letterbox???
Thanks

What you want to use is Letterbox, not Pan & Scan or Pan & Scan/Letterbox. (Using both allows the user to choose which one)
From the manual (do a search for Pan-Scan for more info in the PDF/manual)
The pan-scan method of displaying 16:9 video on a 4:3 Monitor was developed as a compromise between letterbox, which displays all the video content but with black bars at the top and bottom, and the only other alternative: filling the enitre 4:3 screen, but cropping some of the content.
Broad stroke - Pan-Scan uses "vectors" to control what part of a video is shown.
Final Cut and DVD SP cannot add the vectors and if you set the playback it may lead to results you do not want (i.e., only center part of the video being shown.)
Practically if you shot 16:9 and really shot with 4:3 in mind, the outside areas may not be needed, but you need to look at the footage....

Similar Messages

Pan-Scan versus Letterbox

I am a bit confused about the use of Pan-Scan vs. Letterbox for 16:9 images to be displayed on either a widescreen (16:9) or a standard (4:3) TV set. Pan-Scan is confusing: I would have assumed that using Pan-Scan as the display mode for 16:9 images (this is slideshow I am talking about) would display the center of the image and cut off the sides on a standard 4:3 TV screen, and display normally on a 16:9 widescreen TV. Not so. I set the display mode to Pan-Scan and burned a DVD: on a stadard 4:3 TV both the sides and the top and bottom of the image was cut off. I thought only the sides would be cut. But worse, on a 16:9 widescreen TV, THE SAME THING HAPPENS! The image is cut off at the sides and top and bottom - it appears to be enlarged (like zooming in) somehow, and so the image resolution is horrible: grainy, etc. When letterbox is used, the widescreen image is good, even the title safe border is not even close to the edge, and the image displays quite well on a 4:3 standard TV with the black bars top and bottom. So my question is, when could a Pan-Scan be used? Is it only for a computer monitor? Would I experience the same thing with video? And what does the choice: "Pan-Scan & Letterbox" (the third choice) offer? very confusing.
Barry

BArry:
This information is taken from DVDSP User Manual:
=======================================
Using Pan-Scan to Display 16:9 Video
The pan-scan method of displaying 16:9 video on a 4:3 monitor was developed as a compromise between letterbox, which displays all the video content but with black areas at the top and bottom, and the only other alternative: filling the entire 4:3 screen, but cropping some of the content. With pan-scan, you can choose which bits of the 16:9 content to crop, ensuring the action is not lost by displaying the center of the screen only. The pan-scan method can result in sudden jumps from one side of the screen to the other (for example, to follow a conversation’s dialogue), which may make your video look as if edits have been made.
To make pan-scan work, you must have a pan-scan vector, a frame-based value that controls which part of the content to use. Someone watching the video creates the vector, deciding which parts should be seen. This vector must be available when the video is MPEG-encoded. The MPEG encoder included with DVD Studio Pro does not support pan-scan vector information. However, if the information is already part of an MPEG-encoded video stream, created with an encoder that supports the vector information, DVD Studio Pro passes this information along.
Virtually all movies shown on TV have been through the pan-scan process; however, pan-scan vectors are rarely used for movies released on DVD. Instead, a version of the movie is made using the 4:3 pan-scanned source, and is not intended to be played as a 16:9 video on 16:9 monitors. The other side of the disc often contains the true 16:9 version, set to display as letterboxed video on 4:3 monitors.
Important: Do not use pan-scan if your video does not actually support it. If you do, only the center part of the frame will appear.
=======================================
Hope it helps!
Alberto

16:9 Pan Scan or Letterbox or Both ?????

i am helping a friend make a dvd and the video was shot in 16:9
in DVDSP do i select...
16:9 Pan-Scan
16:9 Letterbox
16:9 Pan-scan & Letterbox
we have no clue the difference between them
thanks a lot

Hi guys,
My problem is that I captured all my footage already in 16:9 letterboxed and when I burn a DVD of my project with DSP 4 and play it on my HDTV it still letterboxes the image not only creating bars on the top and bottom but on the right and left side as well, thus not showing my video in my HDTV's full screen. Can anyone help me?
If I turn on the anamorphic settings in the FCP 6.04 sequnce and or in DSP 4, the image does fill my HDTV screen but it squahes it, with bottom and top letterbox bars still showing.
I'd appreciate a response back to my email in case I can't find this thread again:
[email protected]
Thanks!

Pan and Scan and zoom

The pan,scan and zoom on a still photo seems to be much smoother on the cheaper application 'Photo to Movie' than it is with FCE. Is it thus better to do those movements on a still on PtoM and then import them into FCE ?
I am working with FCE 2.
Anyone any ideas?

Sure, why not. Use whatever tools work well for you.
I had a quick look at the Photo to Movie site and one thing to be aware of is that of you export in the DV Stream format it might require rendering in FCE. I don't know how much control on export you have with Photo to Movie, you'll have to let us know what the options are.
Anyway this isn't a big issue and can be worked around if need be.

Settings for 16:9 & Pan Scan

hi all,
I need some clarification on some DVDSP settings. I am using DVDSP4, and I have widescreen footage saved from FCP, but the final output of DVD will be viewed like most, on a mixture of widescreen TV's and standard 4:3.
I've stumbled by until now not knowing for sure what the settings should be exactly, and i've been pretty confused by - Playback Output Settings (under Simulator menu) and the Settings under 'General' for the menus.
Have found that sometimes if i've set it up as widescreen, when it has been played on a DVD player the TV has not 'smart-scaled' it
At present I have mine set as thus:
GENERAL (TAB)
SD DVD Menus Tracks and Slideshows : 16:9 Pan-Scan
SIMULATOR (TAB)
Display Mode : 4:3 Pan-Scan
ENCODING (TAB)
Aspect Ratio : 16:9
I'd appreciate any advice you could pass on this.
thanks

If you have 16:9 material set it for Letterbox do not use Pan & Scan or Pan & Scan with Letterbox.
On 16:9 tvs it will play back 16:9, on 4:3 televisons it will playback letterbox, though people can always change settings on TVs and DVD Players and mess things up.

Emergency: Pan-Scan / Letterbox / Pan-Scan & Letterbox??

90 minute docu going to replicators in 2 hours.
Master is a 16:9 HDV that's been exported to MPEG2. I want menu to be 16:9 (16:9 for full widescreen TV & 16:9 letterbox for 4:3 TV). I've already got 3 pages of menues set up with 14 buttons each. (I'm told Pan-Scan & Letterbox has only room for 12).
What do I set my menues at for getting my 16:9 menu on widescreen TV (letterboxed on 4:3 TV)???
Instant help much much appreciated.
Thank you,
Ben

Ben
What do I set my menues at for getting my 16:9 menu on widescreen TV (letterboxed on 4:3 TV)???
Set tracks & menus as Display Mode: 16:9 Letterbox to get such behaviour, NOT PanScan.
Hope that helps !
Alberto

16:9 footage appearing as Pan Scan 4:3 on TV!

Ok.. so my footage mpeg2 16:9 coming out of compressor. I had everything displaying as 16:9 (including menus) on my screen and simulation. But when i burn to dvd it shows up on the tv as squashed video/menus. What am i doing wrong? Thanks

You need to set the menus and tracks to display as 16:9 Letterbox (not Pan & Scan or Pan & Scan/Letterbox) Sounds like you did that(?) and if it is showing up otherwise on a television, it could be the settings in the DVD Player or television are set improperly, though you can do your best when authroing, the DVD Player and TV settings can overide things

Best Quality Setting and Letterboxing problem

Just finished 10 minute production shot with a Canon xl2 in 24p advanced pulldown with 16:9. After exporting with compressor to DVD Studio pro and burning - have some leterboxing and quality is not what I expected. Also - client reports "pause" when playing on new dell. Need the highest quality - but production needs to play on most popular newer model computers. Would appreciate any advice anyone can provide:
1. What is best export setting to use from FCP for DVD production of a 24pa 16:9 project? Should 16:9 be checked under the advanced sequence setting - or does that cause a problem in dvd studio pro?
2. What is best compressor setting? DVDbest quality 90 minute 16:9?
3. In DVD Studio - under the track settings - would you check letterbox, 4;3; or pan-scan & letterbox - why is there not just a 16:9 setting? Why would DVD studio pro indicate the asset is 29 vs 24 FPS?
Really need some help on this - we have a fantastic production and wand it to be displayed in the proper format at the highest quality. Thanks so much.

although your 'normal' rendering shows the correct scenery, it looks in 'best' as if the fall-off settings of your light(s) is too high/low (?? )
I would increase these settings of the lights…

Widescreen and letterbox using same anamorphic footage

Is there a way to take a single source file that is anamorphic 720 x 480 (1.20) and have two buttons: one widescreen and one letterboxed -- so those with widescreen tv's can watch it in it's native aspect ratio, and those with 4:3 tv's can select the letterboxed version.
Right now, I am taking the anamorphic QT source file and placing it in it's own track, and then downconverting the anamorphic master making a letterboxed QT file and placing it in another track. I'm probably doing this the long way around, but it works. Just looking for a quicker way.
Thanks.
David Barker

Encode the track as 16:9, do not make another version that is letterboxed, then set track to 16:9 letterbox in the inspector (NOT pan & scan or pan&scan/letterbox)
The track will be 16:9 on 16:9 tvs and letterboxed on 4:3 (though people can mess with their DVD PLayer and TV settings)

How do I create motion for still photos/pictures. I'd like to pan/scan & zoom. Please help!

How do I create motion for still photos/pictures. I'd like to pan/scan & zoom. Please help!

You kind of answered your own question..
Check out Motion in the FX Control Window and learn how keyframing works..

ATI Radeon 3870 for photomation pan/scan/zoom

Hi all,
I'm thinking about upgrading to the ATI Radeon 3870, but before I commit I would like to know if it will help with faster renders on the photo pan/scan/zoom (i.e. Ken Burns) style moves that make up the bulk of my work. I know it's good for Motion, but what I'm really after is speed on FCP renders for photos that have keyframe animated scale, rotation, and position parameters, as well as basic filters and transitions.
Thanks!

I don't know what your workflow is, but I've animated hundreds of photos in Motion before without problem. And if I'm dealing with a long sequence (one was about 25 minutes long), I simply break it up into manageable pieces of 4-5 minutes long and reassemble in FCP. I could do all that and still be finished before I had the chance to animate a third of the photos in FCP alone.
To me, speed is a primary concern because obviously time is money. But as I said, I don't know how your workflow differs.
Andy

Why my pan&scan don't work

when i render all with color
just pan&scan dont render and i have set the keyframe
my project setting wrong?

There were a few versions of Final Touch where geometry was rendered,but its not generally recommended practice. I know its there, but it doesn't work very well, and is particularly bad with interlaced media. You are far better off doing the scaling and stuff in FCP. Where there are motion tabs in the original source FCP project, the XML export process in COLOR tries to preserve those settings and will ignore anything you do within the Geometry room.
jPo

35mm slide film scanning and editing

I've begun scanning old family slides on a Canon flatbed which seems to be doing a fine job. I can make quite a few adjustments before I scan, and I'm confused about which to choose. Some of the adjustments seem to make the resulting digital image worse rather than better. I've been trying to test things out but there are so many combinations.
Can anyone give me a rule of thumb for when to use features such as:
AutoTone
Unsharp Mask
Remove Dust & Scratches
Fading Correction
Grain Correction
Backlighting Correction
It seems that the more corrections I can make before I scan the better. Is that correct or should I be making them after in a program like PhotoShop Elements (which I have not used yet).
Thank you very much for any advice.

As Barbara mentioned if you're scanning thru Photoshop Elements you can select any number of formats to save as (you don't need to edit at that time, just save). Photoshop's format is lossless and is iPhoto compatible. If you edit a jpg with iPhoto you go thru only one additional jpeg compression as subsequent edits are written to the library's database file and applied when viewed, printed or exported. With PSE, I've only seen one drop in file size take place after multiple edits of a jpg format file.
Scanning a 4x6 photo at 300 dpi will give the following sized in these formats:
jpg - 1.4 MB
psd - 3.8 MB
tiff uncompressed - 4.5 MB
If you save the scan as a .psd, i.e. a Photoshop Elements format, import into iPhoto and edit with PSE you can do advanced editing that requires layers without having to save the file to the desktop and import as a new file. iPhoto will also edit .psd files and keep the format for further editing by PSE but loses the individual layers. So if you want to keep the multiple layers in a psd file, i.e. text layers, duplicated edited layers, don't edit with iPhoto.
If you import into iPhoto first, you can organize them as you desire, i.e. keywords, albums, etc. and edit when you need to use one of the files. As you go along you'll become more proficient with PSE and can do better job.
Here are some tips on using PSE with iPhoto that may be of some help:
Using Photoshop (or Photoshop Elements) as Your Editor of Choice in iPhoto.
1 - select Photoshop as your editor of choice in iPhoto's General Preference Section's under the "Edit photo:" menu.
2 - double click on the thumbnail in iPhoto to open it in Photoshop. When you're finished editing click on the Save button. If you immediately get the JPEG Options window make your selection (Baseline standard seems to be the most compatible jpeg format) and click on the OK button. Your done.
3 - however, if you get the navigation window that indicates that PS wants to save it as a PS formatted file. You'll need to either select JPEG from the menu and save (top image) or click on the desktop in the Navigation window (bottom image) and save it to the desktop for importing as a new photo.
This method will let iPhoto know that the photo has been editied and will update the thumbnail file to reflect the edit..
NOTE: With Photoshop Elements 6 the Saving File preferences should be configured: "On First Save: Save Over Current File". Also I suggest the Maximize PSD File Compatabilty be set to Always.
If you want to use both iPhoto's editing mode and PS without having to go back and forth to the Preference pane, once you've selected PS as your editor of choice, reset the Preferences back to "Open in main window". That will let you either edit in iPhoto (double click on the thumbnail) or in PS (Control-click on the thumbnail and seledt "Edit in external editor" in the Contextual menu). This way you get the best of both worlds
2 - double click on the thumbnail in iPhoto to open it in Photoshop. When you're finished editing click on the Save button. If you immediately get the JPEG Options window make your selection (Baseline standard seems to be the most compatible jpeg format) and click on the OK button. Your done.
3 - however, if you get the navigation window that indicates that PS wants to save it as a PS formatted file. You'll need to either select JPEG from the menu and save (top image) or click on the desktop in the Navigation window (bottom image) and save it to the desktop for importing as a new photo.
This method will let iPhoto know that the photo has been editied and will update the thumbnail file to reflect the edit..
OT

Speedgrade crops footage on render output with Pan&scan

I have a simple timeline with one DPX-Sequence and a Pan&Scan track on it.
No gradings, no dissolves.
some images in the sequnece have a lower resolution, so I scale them up to full HD with the Pan&Scan-Track. Everything shows up right in the viewport, but when I render the sequence, the scaled parts of the timeline come out being cropped to their original size with a black border around them.
It also happens when I try to assemble a sequence with quictimes and sequences of different resolutions.
I installe Update 6.0.4 but the error is still there.
Is there at least a workaround?

Try posting in the SpeedGrade forum
http://forums.adobe.com/community/speedgrade?view=discussions

Encore Pan Scan

Hello Everyone,
I am building a DVD but i have a small problem.
My DVD is 720x576(which is a normal DVD) ,but when i play the DVD on 40"TV it looks very blurr.It is because the quality of the video is low.So i am looking for away to make this video that when it plays in big TV to be in black frame(instead of pan scan which will streach it to full screan).
Also does anyone know why Encore doesnt correctly do overide because i made a dvd which has override at the end of each chapter but instead plays all?
Thanks

First, try your TV setting to make sure that you are not zoomed. Second, be sure you are using an "upscaling" player - true of almost all bluray players and newer DVD players.

Pan-Scan and Letterbox??????

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for