Photo printing colour matching to older hp printer

I have a D7160 hp printer and have just acquired a C309a printer. The photos printed on the c309a have less vibrancy of colour and when printing mountain scenes have a distinct green cast. Compared to the same image printed on the D7160 the images look under exposed. Most of the photos I take are used as colour references when painting in oils - this is very disappointing as I know the photo in no way represents the image taken. Is there a way to colour correct or do I need a different ? Also, the software with this printer - "simple home print" function in no way compares to the photsmat premium 6.1 that came with the D7160. I am not a professional photographer but I have taken many courses. I need a "truer" colour match than I have been able to achieve. This printer and software don't appear to be sophisticated enough for my needs unless there is a way to correct these problems.

I'm sorry I can't help you, because I have a similar problem printing to an HP AIO 7410 from Corel Paint Shop Pro, or even Roxio Photo Suite. The colors on the screen do not match the colors on the prints. If I spend several hours per print, I'll eventuall get there, at a great cost in paper and ink.
How does one calibrate a monitor? How does an amateur calibrate a 7400 series printer?
Same problem, I think, as yours, but different hardware and software.
Maybe HP will start collecting complaints such as these and issue a simple step-by-step paper to help us out.
Tony

Similar Messages

Colour matching bw on canon printer

desperate to print high quality bw just cannot seem to colour match icc for mac to canon printer

I'm sorry I can't help you, because I have a similar problem printing to an HP AIO 7410 from Corel Paint Shop Pro, or even Roxio Photo Suite. The colors on the screen do not match the colors on the prints. If I spend several hours per print, I'll eventuall get there, at a great cost in paper and ink.
How does one calibrate a monitor? How does an amateur calibrate a 7400 series printer?
Same problem, I think, as yours, but different hardware and software.
Maybe HP will start collecting complaints such as these and issue a simple step-by-step paper to help us out.
Tony

Printer not printing AND Matching Screen colors to Print colors. Any advice is apreciated!!

Hello - I have 2 questions regarding printing to an Epson and also regarding the monitor colors Not matching the print colors working from Photoshop CS4 on a Mac with a Maverick [ 10.9.3 ] OS. My issues are Not about my own printers or software. I have been tutoring a friend via phone in Photoshop; he has CS4 and is working on Mac OS 10.9.3.
1- We found that he could print nearly fine [ nearly accurate colors ] from Lightroom on his computer, version 5.4. But when he tries to print from Photoshop he cannot make a print. There is clear communication between the computer and the printer, as, when he sent the file to print, the printer [ an Epson 3880 ] responded by automatically changing to Photo Black from Matte. Then, it opens the rollers as if to print, but, it them stops and the menu [ on the Printer ] says 'Ready.' The paper is 4x6” Moab Lasal paper 300gsm. This issue of Not printing is only with this Moab Lasal luster paper, for which he Does have the IIC profile, and we always make sure ‘Photoshop manages colors,’ not the printer. To address the issue of the printer Not printing at all using a non-Epson brand paper, we have tried seemingly everything from deleting and re-adding the printer from the Library / Printers, resetting everything [ printer computer software etc ], trying different settings in the Printer window and the Print Settings window. Including changing the media profile, platen gap, etc.
2- My other and more important question is – after we Do get a print, we cannot match the monitor color to the print. [ We havE been able to get a print using Epson brand paper. Which is odd because we have the ICC profiles for both papers ]. To address the color matching issue, he has told me he calibrated the monitor with a Spyder, and here are a few other variables that I can relay that may or may not be affecting his color-issues:
He iS viewing his prints in a dayliglht-rated lighting environment
The monitor is an iMac glossy finish monitor, not an anti-glare
We tried working and printing from both an 8-bit and also a 16-bit color-space and also 16-bit printing
The color shift is slightly but noticeably toward Magenta.
His printer is Not calibrated
Please let me know what else we can do, any known glitches that may be an issue with his older version of CS, any tips you can suggest.
Thanks very much!

I don't have that printer and I'm not on Mac, so someone else has to step in there. Generally a green/magenta cast indicates none/double printer color management. But then I don't know what you mean by "slight".
The Spyders aren't the most consistent and reliable calibrators out there. I had a Spyder 3 sensor that I just threw away because it gave a distinct red cast (I have several other calibrators, so there was no doubt). Another potential problem is that with most calibrators you can only adjust the white point along the blue/yellow Kelvin scale, but not on the green/magenta scale. This is often necessary to get a good white point color. In this case you need to use the monitor's OSD controls, and if possible the "pre-calibration" function in the calibrator to measure and monitor it - if that function exists. And I don't know if this is possible with an iMac.
This is basically a question of getting the white point right, both on the blue/yellow and the green/magenta axis (and luminance of course). The goal is to get a visual match to paper white on screen. With the white point properly set, neutral color balance relates to that, and the rest more or less follows by itself. (In addition you should set the proper black point/contrast for full control, but that's not the issue here).

HP Photosmart Premium - C309g and it has stopped printing in black (but will print colour)

Hi my HP Photosmart Premium - C309g and it has stopped printing in black (but will print colour). I've tried:-
printing test page - blank apart from windows logo
powering off and on
printing form different programmes.
Both black printer cartridges are full.
printer is 3 days out of one year guarantee!
I'm not very technical so easy solutions would be preferred.
Thanks
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Try the solution in this thread for cleaning the C309g printhead.
Please mark the post that solves your issue as "Accept as Solution".
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Epson Photo 950 and 10.4.6, full page printing and colour match

Hi all, having a couple of problems firstly (and yes I downloaded the latest drivers from Epson) I cannot print full page, there is always about an inch space at one end of my picture (A4) and borderless seems to be impossible altogether.
Secondly, colours are way off, greys appear dark green, what settings should I use, and under OS9 colour match was perfect but now using the same settings its all wrong.
Any help would greatly appreciate.
Thanks
Leigh

Turns out the solution was to use Printer Setup Repair from Fix-a-Mac.
Used it to backup the printing system, then pushed all its buttons and rebooted. Result, printer auto-detected and set up correctly and the iPhoto printing problem is apparently resolved.

My problem is that after printing the first photo or picture, when I come to print a second, both the Colour Management and Epson Colour Controls are greyed out and showing No Colour Management

I have recently purchased a Mac computer (updated to Maverick) to go with my Epson Stylus Photo RX500 printer which has given excellent service with my old Windows computer. However, when trying to print pictures or photos via Photoshop Elements 11, the best results I can get are using the Colour Management and Epson Colour controls in the printing options box.
My problem is that after printing the first photo or picture, when I come to print a second, both the Colour Management and Epson Colour Controls are greyed out and showing No Colour Management, The only way I can reset the controls is to shut down the printer and computer and restart.
Could there may be a setting somewhere that I need to adjust please? I have been in touch with Epson and they say that the Epson Colour controls are part of the Photoshop Elements software but a post on the Adobe forum brought no results and I am unable to contact Adobe.
<Edited by Host>

Hello Garry. Thanks for the reply. I guess I should have used a different title from "How do I post a question?" That should come after trying to resolved the colour settings first. However, to answer your question, after experimenting with all the different settings in Photoshop Elements and Epson software, I now start with PSE11 Colour settings then click "no colour management" then after clicking Print, I choose "More Options/Colour Management/Colour Handling/Printer Manages Colour" then I choose "Page Setup/Layout/Colour Matching" which then shows Epson Colour Controls but I also choose "Layout/Colour Management" which then shows "Colour Controls/Mode" I then of course choose an Epson printer profile depending on the paper I am using. I get good results but as I said, the Colour Matching and Colour Controls are then greyed out. Hope that makes sense.

How do I get my printer to match the colours of the image as I see it on screen?

How do I get my printer to match the colours of the image as I see it on screen? My HP Office Jet Pro L7680 printer tends to print my images with a bias towards red compared to the image I am seeing on screen with Lightroom 5 using a Mac with Retina 5 screen. Would appreciate any expertise on how to calibrate the printer to the screen

You have two options. The first method costs nothing but is not as accurate and the second means buying hardware and investing some time. The fastest way to get things closer is to download the color profile from the printer manufactures site for the printer and paper combination you are using. Install it on you Mac and relaunch LR. This is best when the paper and printer are both from the same company; in your case, HP. If the paper is not made by HP, you can often find profiles for your paper/printer by going to the paper maker's web site and doing a search for the appropriate profile.
The other alternative is to purchase a piece of hardware such as the ColorMonki which can be used to not only profile your monitor for color balance but also you printer/paper as well as your camera. When all of your devices agree on what color 118,118,118 means, you get the same color from capture to print but this is also an expensive option and there is a lot of time involved in building your own color profiles. The results however, are much more accurate.
Once you have a color profile installed, the next step involves doing soft proofing. Once you have your image looking the way you want it to in LR, open it in the soft proof option. This will show you how your print will look using the color profile for the paper/printer you are using. During the process, you will be shown the print on your screen which may look off. Use the small triangle in the upper-right corner of the histogram to turn on the out-of-gamut warning. This will highlight any parts of your image which contain colors your printer can't handle. Use the rendering intent options to decide how you want these colors handled (relative or perceptual). Check them both and use the one you like best. You can also make additional changes at this point if required before you generate the JPG image. Make sure to save it as a max quality JPG using the sRGP profile. Once saved, you can send this image to your printer or even to a lab as the process is the same.The attached link should get you to a video showing how to use the ColorMunki hardware/software but, more importantly, shows you how to prepare an image for printing (in this case, for a lab) using soft proofing with the color profile created (or downloaded).--Great Color from Your Lab Prints – Every Time! on Vimeo

IPrint app for iOS fails to print photos in colour

We are running the latest build of the iPrint Appliance (Version: 1.0.1.69 Patch 1) and cannot get the iPrint app for iOS to print photos in colour. I suspect that this is a problem with the internal renderer and JPG files. Printing a PDF, DOC or DOCX file which uses the External windows renderer prints in colour without any issues. Anyone know whether this is a known bug or how I can enable colour printing for a JPG file?
Thanks
Chris

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Getting the photos I print to match what they look like on my screen.

I'm having a hard time getting the photos I print to match what they look like on my screen. I even bought a monitor calibrator and tried changing my color settings in Photoshop and it hasn't seemed to help. The pictures even look different when I pull them up in The ROES program I use to order prints from. The pictures come out really dull compared to what they look like in Photoshop. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do to fix this?

There are a couple of things to note here right away.
To get a good screen to print match the first consideration is the monitor brightness and white point temperature. The goal is a visual match to paper white.
The calibrator will help you set this up. Spend some time to find the right settings, because it will depend on the ambient light and your whole working environment. That includes the Photoshop UI - if you use the now default dark UI, images will appear brighter than in the old light UI.
The second thing to note is that you don't change any Photoshop color settings. The calibration and profiling is all handled automatically, once you found the right settings for white point. Just let the calibration software run through and do its thing, done. The display profile is set up as system default and Photoshop finds it there.
Once you have a correct display of the file, you then need a correctly color managed print pipeline. If both are accurate, they will match.

Photosmart 6510 not printing photo in colour

I have a Mac OS X 10.8.4 and I am new to it. I have a photosmart 6510 wireless printer, and I am trying to print off a colour photo. Each time I print, the printer goes through the motions of printing and it sounds as though, it is printing - quite slowly, which is the norm for photo's. However, when the machine has finished, the photo paper is completely blank, can any one tell me what I am doing wrong? have checked my ink levels and each cartridge is almost half full. Thanks for any help you can give me

I am having the same problem... I have a Mac OS X 10.7.5 and a photosmart 6510 printer, and I am trying to print a color photo on 4x6 photo paper -- I have done this before with no problem from various applications. But now, each time I print, the printer goes through the motions of printing and it sounds as though it is printing, but when it's finished, the photo paper has come out completely blank. The ink levels are each over half full. I would really appreciate an answer - I have used all manner of troubleshooting using the standard HP Photosmart printing guidelines and nothing has worked.

New & Improved 4x6 Premium Plus photo paper does not print as good as older paper

I am using an HP Photosmart 8250 printer. I print about 500 to 700 photos per year on the 4x6 Premium Plus photo paper. When my new order of paper came yesterday I noticed it said new & Improved on the box. Buy I do not get the same quality of print on the new paper as I did on the old. The blacks have a dark olive look to it and the colors are not as rich as I got with the old paper. To make sure my printer was OK I choice a good picture and printed it on both the older paper and the new. The blacks are black and the colors are rich on the old paper. The black on the new paper had that olive look and colors were not as nice. I basically threw all my new prints in the trash. What has happen to this good paper? I don't want to have to buy a different printer at the moment, but cannot print my photos on this new paper either. Help?

Hi Sabrams49,
Certain inks work better with certain types of paper. There is nothing wrong with your supplies but unfortunately the paper you are using will always exhibit this problem when used in conjuction with these supplies.
The Premium Plus Photo Paper works better with much older printing systems than the one you own. HP Advanced Paper is the recommended paper for your photosmart and should not exhibit any smudging problems like the oen you have described.
This website can be useful if you want to find out information on what paper to use for best results with any given printer or any other info about the paper itself.
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/us/en/sm/WF08a/18972-18972-238444-421635-410635-3777155.html
Please let me know if this is helpful or not!
Regards,
Although I am an HP Employee I am not expert on all products.
The views I express here are my own and in no way represent the views, opinions or strategies of HP.
I'm just trying to help out if I can.

Printer colour does not match screen colour in Adobe 9, but does with Adobe 7

I have just upgraded to Adobe Acrobat Professional 9. My colour documents look
different when printed from 9 than when they do printed from 7 even when the same document is printed on the same printer from the same computer. What settings do I need to change in 9 so that the documents print out the same? For example, in one document I have dark blue sky which is fine in 7, but prints out as deep purple sky in 9. On screen it is dark blue when viewed in both 9 and 7. All help greatly appreciated. Thanks

The same document prints our perfectly from Adobe 9 on another colour printer so the problem is obviously between Adobe 9 and the original printer. The original printer is due to be replaced shortly so we will not try to resolve this issue. Thanks for your help.

Printing Colour Problems ...

I know this is a common cry for help, but I am having a dreadful time trying to understand colour profiles, despite spending a lot of time reading up on the subject. Here's my basic dilemma:
I have calibrated my display (Apple 23" Cinema). I am using an old Epson 830U for basic home proofs. I have set up my proofing profile in Aperture to match the printer and paper I'm using. When I print from Aperture I select my printer and paper in the colour sync profile, and in addition I ensure that the paper type is correctly specified in the printer's settings (and I also deselect colour managment in the printer settings).
Does this sound right ? I've noticed that even just a small mistake, e.g. forgetting to select the paper type correctly, can lead to extreme colour differences.
At the end of the day I'm not despertate for perfect colour in my home proofs, but I am trying to get them to look approximately right. It's not uncommon for me to end up with extreme colour problems. I can't print anything from iPhoto without it coming out too dark and with a blue tint. Luckily, printing from Aperture seems to produce better results (I just wish I knew why).
Surely it shouldn't be this hard to set up a basic Epson photo printer on the Mac.
If anyone knows of an idiot proof guide to home photo printing using high end applications on Mac OS X, feel free to point me in that direction.
Paul

I suspect it really is intricate as opposed to hard. But here's my "Dummies/Idiot's Guide ...." for you.
The difficulties start by reminding ourselves that color is perceptual. Our retina sends a signal to our brain, and our brain translates that to a color. But, who knows what color you perceive as blue compared with myself if we both stand side by side and look up at a blue sky. we've just been told since a baby that it's blue, but our brain does it's magic and we "see" what it tells us. This translation issue between retina and perceived image is behind much color-blindness ... a difficulty in perceiving a color difference.
Since we can't "standardize" our brains (well not anytime soon), what can we standardize that can reduce variance in our actual and perceived perception?
Perception is 9/10's of the Law:
Ever taken your laptop outside? When you can actually see the image due to the relative brightness of the outside to indoors, did you notice that colors seemed different? Your eye is adjusting to the ambient light, and your brain gets in on the act. Your brain decides that the brightest light source is essentially "white" and so tricks us. That's why we can take a photo inside under tungsten light, and what looked white to us as we took the shot comes out as yellow-orange. Quantum Physics time: Tungsten releases "light" (electromagnetic radiation) at this frequency when electrons that had been bumped up to higher energy states (by us supplying power from the on/off switch) fall back to a lower energy state and give off or 'emit" a packet of energy comprising the difference between those two states.
Halogen headlights look brighter, but also whiter than tungsten headlights. That's because the radiation they emit is somewhat bluer. Xenon headlights are even more blue biased.
The sun gives off light from a whole collection of different elements, but by and large it is yellow/red. However, there is lashings and lashings of it compared to a tungsten bulb, and our poor, overworked brain is left to cope figuring out brightness vs. whiteness. Our brains do OK, but they do it by tricking us rather than science.
Home is where the heart of the problem is:
So, OK, we've taken some photos, and pressed this button to "auto white balance" or selected a "white balance" that tells the camera that although white isn't really white, pretend that it is, since our brain is also pretending. Of course, if we forget to tell our camera this, we have to tell Aperture or PS CS2.
But, sat there in front of our screen, what are we really seeing? Well, we are not seeing just the displayed image, no oh no. That would be too simple! No, our brains are passionate about their environment. What's the lighting? Fluorescent (I hope not), halogen, tungsten? This matters as our eyes/brain will calibrate to more than just the on screen image. What wall colors exist? Blue, red, green, off-white? Those refceted colors are going to fool our brain into believing that the image on screen has a tint. This is why Aperture's window is all gray, and photo professionals strongly suggest image editing is performed in an all gray room, with as "white" a light source as possible (halogen vs. tungsten, tungsten vs. fluorescent). BTW. I dislike fluorescents as all the bulbs seem to have hideously different colors, and age badly across time. That plus the rather unattractive greenish tints they give skin tones puts me over the edge.
Oh, and no desklights with their nice pool of incident light or other effect lighting. Save that for the living room. This room is to reduce the trickery that your brain can throw at you. So, nice uniform, diffused lighting.
Watching you watching me:
But if we're now living in our nice gray world, ready to edit those wonderful images that we used the right white balance for when shooting, what next?
Calibrating your monitor means you standardize against those who wrote a color profile for the printer, the paper or who will be printing images for you. Your image should look the same on someone elses monitor as it does on yours. That's step 1.
However, displayed color is also perceptual. CRT's render color differently IMO to LCD's. Both are transmissive, but brightness differs and perhaps more importantly, what is color? Outside, our eye saw all the different wavelengths it was capable of sensing and passed the relative intensity values per wavelength to our brainiac computer. Not so in our digital scanner or camera. In computer technology, color is rendered as a triangular space represented by a dot at each apex ... one red, one blue and one green. Those point "phosphors" in CRT vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and to the standard required. Close but no cigar. The electronics and guns also do not track perfectly linearly from pure black (no signal) to pure white (max. output of a phosphor of equal intensity to the others). This is called gray-scale tracking and unless it is near perfect, you can see green or blue shifts in color at the black end or white end etc.
Uh oh, that white question again. Come to that, how do I know it's the same white that I set my camera to when I shot? Well, we don't really wiothout setting to some standard. It's not that each phosphor isn't emitting, it's the balance across them at our determined highest brightness (white) that needs to be set. D65 is often quoted in TV's, representing a color temperature of 6500Kelvin (deepest reds are low temperature emmissions and brightest blues are the highest temperatures).
Now LCD's don't have phosphors illuminated by a stream of electrons, and they came long after we had developed pretty decent CRT technologies. So being lazy humans, we lifted the ideas and terms No phosphors, but they do have red, green and blue LCD's (each a sub-pixel, and the three combined are a pixel)triggered by an electronic signal. so, why aren't they called LED panels? Well, LED's are not very bright, and we need a mechanism to make them brighter. Those quaint watches came to the rescue ... LCD's or Liquid Crystal Displays. You know, those ugly greeny/gray, low contrast watches. Yes, that's the one. Sandwich those colorful but dim LED's between an LCD, and use the LCD to switch on/off a powerful light ... rather light turbo charging a 4 cylinder motor to make it perform like a V8! The posh name was TFT-LCD (for Thin Film Transistor LCD). Now we have a bright, flat screen. Yahoo!
But backlighting of the panel is not always very uniform (look at colors around your screen for different flat colors at different intensities and you may see patchiness). Nor do LCD's behave exactly like phosphors from deepest black (impossible when you have to have a back light which is always on and which illuminates the whole panel of glass) to white. But why sweat this, when the LCD rarely conforms perfectly to the red, green, blue phosphor standards.
BTW, it is the backlight that kills laptop battery life, not the LCD's themselves. Turing your brightness down as low as possible helps .... but I digress.
So we buy calibration hardware and software, and calibrate our monitor to a ruler flat grayscale from pure black to pure white.
And it looks bad.
It is rather idiosyncratic of us that a perfectly linear gray scale can leave us perceiving a lack of contrast. So, we distort the "gamma" value to provide more punchiness. Apple vs. Windoze computers tended to have different gamma's out of the box. Apple uses a gamma of 1.8, a rather flater, more pastel effect that, if my knowledge is correct, translates/translated better to the characteristics of the professional CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black) four color printing processes used by offset litho printers. Windoze uses a gamma of 2.2, a punchier, gutsy, in-your-face effect. Marketing? I don't know. But it does appear a better match for RGB (our computer friendly Red, Green, Blue) inks used in inkjet printers.
So we calibrate our monitors, and then deliberately decalibrate them (if you will) to correspond to our output destinantion.
A quick digression here.
If our output is destined for print, what dos that mean to us? Well, part is covered above. But what about web, or tv viewing from DVD? Ahh hah! Gotcha!
We can control our calibration. We can even calibrate ourselves to external print shops, knowing that our image will appear 99% or more the same on their monitors as it does on ours. And they will have calibrated their monitors to their printers and paper (more on this below). But what about Joe Public?
Back to that color space.
A 10 year old color tv, used moderately over the years, performs no way like a new color tv. The phosphors "age." even the backlights in LCS panels age. Age is represented by diminished light output, and grayscale tracking. So, our 10 year old tv cannot represent the wide color space it could when it was brand new. Worse, even if we'd left our 10 year old tv in its box and just opened it, it would not be as capable as a brand new design. TV's are actually held down to 1950's standards rather than up for this very reasson, but the same is somewhat true of computer monitors. We don't know the age, quality or even the color calibration and room environment of our web browsers monitor. So, a much smaller "web safe" color space (sRGB ... standard - or small - RGB) was introduced. This restricted space should be renderable on most old monitors, though gross end consumer calibration issues will obviously remain uncontrollable.
Meanwhile, we want to keep as big a color space as possible ... difficult to put back in what's been taken out. (Set your camera to "Adobe RGB" please right now.) Working in the biggest color space allows us to target any lesser color space with relative ease. And some of these restricted color spaces belong to printers ... which of course, differ from printer to printer, (probably more associtated with inks to inks) and paper to paper ....
More on this next
White points

Color of prints not matching display

I have iPhoto 4.03 and Lexmark Z715 printer. Color on photos displayed in iPhoto is beautiful. When I print a photo, color is shifted towards blue. How can I make prints match the color of display? Thanks.

Colour matching across devices is tricky. Here are a few tips to get you going:
First, you will probably need to recalibrate your monitor. To do this go to Display, click on the Color tab and then click on calibrate. Enable the advanced settings and follow the instructions from there. When asked you should set your target gamma to 2.2 and your white point to native or D65.
Second, are your photos being tagged with the approporiate colour profile on import? Check your iPhoto preferences to see that the option to assign a colour profile on import is checked. This will assign the Camera RGB profile to the file on import. (It would be better if the assigned profile was sRGB but the differences are sufficiently minor with Camera RGB that it doesn't really matter - unless you are shooting in Adobe RGB, which should actually work properly anyway.) To check if your existing photos have been tagged, open one in Preview and 'Get Info'. This will tell you what profile it has (if any has been assigned).
Third, your printer probably has some specific colour profiles that it will use if given the chance. Make sure you use color sync for colour matching when you are choosing printer setup options and that you are selecting the appropriate paper type. You will get a much better output if your paper matches the specifications of the profile - you instruction manual may have detailed information on the included colour profiles. The way a print looks out of a printer depends upon the type of paper you are using. (For example, when I use Canon glossy paper in my Canon printer it looks fine, when I use Kodak glossy paper it has a slight red cast that I need to adjust for.)
Try all this and see if you end up with your output matching what you see on the screen much better.
(With respect to the second point. If your photos are not tagged appropriately, it is best if you 'Assign' the sRGB colour profile to them - assuming you are using a consumer camera rather than a pro camera in Adobe RGB mode. You can do this in Preview or ColorSync Utility or you can enable Applescripts using the Applescript utility and use the 'Assign Specified Color Profile' script to tag them with sRGB. The Applescript route is technically the best but the differences are minor such that it probably doesn't matter which you choose.)

HP 6700 and CMYK print colours

Greetings
I have a Dell laptop with Core i7 running on windows 7. I have designed a logo with red and black. The design colour was derived from the RGB palette in Paint. When it prints on my HP 6700 colour inkjet the colour of the black is fine, the red, however, seems to have too much blue in it. but because the printer is cmyk how do i correct this? I realise colour is hugely complex when one has a screen with its colour capability, rgb in a programme and cmyk in the printer. One of the websites that enables rgb to be converted to cmyk indicated that red (255) green 0 and blue 0 equates to Magenta 1 and Yellow 1 with cyan 0. Is there a way to control the printer?
Kind regards
Dave
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Hi @DaveABear
I would like to do my best to help you with this. I understand when you are printing your logo the red is printing a little blueish. You said the logo was derived from paint, are you printing it from pain or have you saved it and opened it with a different program? If you are printing it from a different program please let me know which one.
I found some potentially helpful information about advanced color management;
Using the default sRGB modeThe default sRGB color space is the most common setting for print jobs. As mentioned, most images are sRGB, and using sRGB delivers automatic high-quality color without user intervention. When sRGB is selected, the driver controls the color management. Color management should not be attempted with ICC profiles while the driver is set to sRGB mode. Doing so will usually result in lower color fidelity.
Using the AdobeRGB mode
The AdobeRGB Color Space mode is designed to provide compatibility with emerging camera functionality. This mode can be used for printing photos from digital cameras that support the Adobe RGB color space. For example, if a camera is set to Adobe RGB while capturing photos, those photos can be printed from any application by using this color space selection. For print jobs that involve significant editing or graphics composition in the Adobe RGB color space, ICC color management may give better results. Color management should not be attempted with ICC profiles while the driver is set to AdobeRGB mode. Doing so will usually result in lower color fidelity.
Using the ICM color management mode
ICM color management should be selected for the following reasons:Creating ICC profiles to manage printer color
When using an application such as Adobe Photoshop, which supports the selection and use of ICC profiles.
From the perspective of the printer driver, the ICM Color Management selection does one simple thing: it turns off printer color management. If this option is selected from an application that does not allow for the use of ICC profiles, or if no profile is selected for the printer, the resulting prints will be dark, vivid, unmatched printer colors. By disabling printer color management, the high-end user has complete, control over the color matching process via the application.
- Source: Overview of Advanced Color Management
Whether you are printing from paint or another program, one thing you might consider trying is enabling the HP Real Life Technologies.
- Source: Changing the Print Settings in Windows
And finally, the last thing and maybe the least helpful or possibly the most helpful, you may need to Change color management settings < < < Click here
I hope this helps.
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Sunshyn2005 - I work on behalf of HP

Photo printing colour matching to older hp printer

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