'Photo's resizing? Best size for best quality?

Hi, I want to put a London underground tube (metro) map on the 'Photos' section on my iPhone. I know that iTunes resizes all images before they go onto the phone, but that is the best size and quality to ensure the image comes out the clearest on the phone? Thanks.

Really hard to say. Quality is subjective. But the "optimizing" a sync does does make it hard to get large images onto the phone and still look good to zoom in if you have that much detail.
Will say, what a person did for the NY and DC subway/metros maps, they took the image and sliced it into multiple pictures, each being the size of the screen (so resize the original first to be proportional). Then they named them in order from top left to bottom right. Then made a folder named SubWayMap and put those images in it and put that folder in the folder they sync
In the end, they can access their photos, all the thumbnails side by side reveal the full map, then you click which part of the map to see (thus go into one image) and that image could zoom and still be clear to read what they needed.

Similar Messages

Importing animation for best quality

Hi. I'm preparing a 15' video (dvNTSC standard) to be burned to a DVD and played on tv monitors at an awards ceremony for my company. The first 6" or so will be an animated sequence which I have created on an older mac running OS 9.22, using Carrara Studio 3. What is considered the best format for importing animation into FCE 3.5 that will give the highest image quality? I've rendered the animation @ 640 x 480px as a QuickTime Movie using photo-jpeg compression (best quality) and this doesn't look bad but I thought I would get better results generating a Pict Sequence w/ no compression @ 720 x 534px and batch processing the stills in Photoshop adjusting the height to 480px so that the images will retain their correct proportions when imported into FCE. Is there another approach I could take? There is a dvNTSC and animation codec in Carrara that I've tried but the imported animation plays in FCE as black frames. Thanks for any suggestions.
stopmotion
G5 Mac OS X (10.4.7) Using FCE 3.5

PICT sequence would be the best quality until it's compressed in FCE ... Final Cut uses a slightly different scaling algorithm for resizing still image to adjust for pixel aspect ratio ... 720x540 for DV material, rather than 534.
Tom,
Thanks for your reply. I'll go w/ a PICT sequence for my exported animation. That's very interesting about the 720x540 ratio. I did get the the 720x534 ratio from a book on FCE I was reading and was wondering if there was any basis for the verticle pixel dimension of 534 the author quoted.

Reducing kb size for uploading/emails

Hi there,
I have not had my new iMac long and am still getting the hang of using iPhoto and am a bit of a techno dodo at times.
My problem is that I have no idea how to reduce photos in pixel/kb size for uploading onto the web and for emailing to freinds and family.
I have tried using help but not getting very far.
I know there is probably a very easy answer to this, it is just that I have missed it somewhere.
Thankyou for your help.
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.9)

loopylucy
What are you using for E Mail? If you use Apple's Mail, Entourage, AOL or Eudora you can email from within iPhoto, and that process allows yo to scale the pics.
If you're using anything else, then select the pic in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export. In the export dialogue you have the opportunity to scale the pics, among other things. Then complete the export to the desktop and upload that copy. After the upload or e mail is finished you can trash the copy on the desktop - your original is safe in iPhoto.
Regards
TD

I've exported my pages graphics document as a PDF file and can't seem to reduce the file size without compromising the quality of the photo's used even after choosing "best" quality. I'm trying to send the file via e-mail but it's too big. ??????

I am trying to e-mail a graphics pages document I made as a PDF file. After trying to resize the file, the photo's quality is compromised (really blurry) even after choosing "Best" quality. What am I doing wrong. As a regular full sized file (PDF) it's fine, but when it gets reduced, it's bad and it needs to get printed from the e-mail copy I'm trying to send. HELP! Please.

If there are a lot and/or large images the file will inevitably be large, no matter what.
You can reduce them down as far as possible by cropping and scaling them to the final size before creating the pdf. You can do this by opening the images in Preview .app and using Menu > Tools to reduce the resolution and to crop.
If you have used transparency effects eg shadow, reflection, transparency, 3D charts, OSX will by default render these at 72dpi in the pdf.
Peter

I would like to be able to size images by kilobytes instead of pixels--is this possible? I use I-Contact which requires a maximum of 70kb per image. For best quality I want to make the images as close to 70 as possible. Currently I choose a size of 300

I would like to be able to size images by kilobytes instead of pixels--is this possible? I use I-Contact which requires a maximum of 70kb per image. For best quality I want to make the images as close to 70 as possible. Currently I choose a size of 300 pixels on the shortest side but sometimes this gives me an image of slightly greater than 70kb and sometimes the image is just 30-40kb. Is there a way to be more precise in reaching but not exceeding 70 kb?

That is not a feature of iPhoto - suggest to Apple - iPhoto Menu ==> provide iPhoto feedback.
You can opnly resize using the available options and file size is not one of them
LN

What's the best quality export for a 720 X 480 size, 24fps mp4 file?

Whats the best quality export for a 720 X 480 size, 24fps mp4 file?
This movie trailer will be sent to a distributer overseas.
The export I been resorting to lately is MPEG 2 DV High Quality as oppose to anything HDTV because it just shrinks the picture, obviously lol
Do I have anymore options besides Mpeg 2: NTSC DV High Quality?

Lagarith is a codec that you install separately. A very brief Search would have given you that info.
You can access the Lagarith option (once installed) using the Microsoft AVI format, and selecting Lagarith under Video Codec in the Video tab.

Which kind of paper is suitable for printing best quality photo by hp officejet 4500 wireless?

Hi
I have a "hp officejet 4500 wireless" printer and want to print best quality photo from my digital camera. Which kind of paper is suitable for my job? Please kindly advice me.
Best regards,
Faezeh Dibaei

The link below will bring you to the HPshopping website for the Officejet 4500 supplies. Click on the "Paper" link at the top of the webpage and it should show you the supported paper types. I would personally asuggest the Advanced photo paper for photo pritning.
http://shopping2.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/-/-/CB867A?TargetPage=productsupplies
Binary_Zen (worked at HP )
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Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem

What's the best ink and paper for hp deskjet f4140 for best quality photo prints

what's the best ink and paper for hp deskjet f4140 for best quality photo prints

Hi,
For inks, no choice but for papers please use the following shop (or use information to buy elsewhere):
http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/-/-/CB587A?HP-Deskjet-F4140-All-in-One&Targe...
Regards.
BH
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Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Best size for photos for ATV?

I want to place lots of photos on a 2nd generation ATV to work as a screen saver.
1. Is .jpg the best format?
2. What physical dimension should I make the file or does it not matter? Will any images larger than my HD TV 1920x1080 just scale down to fit the 1920x1080 display?
Thanks.

I believe if you are only transferring the images and not the full-resolution photos, iTunes does the optimization for viewing so the pics will be small. You have a choice within the iTunes preferences.

Best Image File Type & Size for Photo Books?

When you select your photos to be included in a Photo Book submission, is there a required file type and maximum size. Most of my images are presently Photoshop .psd files and TIFF files of substantial size -- around 2 to 4MB, that I will have to import into iPhoto '09. Thanks.

Interesting. Presently, all my image files are at 300 dpi.
Remember that DPI has no meaning for a digital file - digital files have only dots - the per inch part comes form the print size so until you select a print size you had only "d" - not "dpi" - that is a totally meaningless number
See +The Myth of DPI+ for more information
How exactly is print size determined in the photo books -- from your selection
Obviously from your selection - you place a photo into a frame and the frame size is the size
You may want to take the tutorial for more information - http://www.apple.com/findouthow/photos/#books
or, whatever size results from the image resolution.
remember that images have no inherent size - they are just dots (pixels)
Is the ideal resolution 300 dpi? Thanks.
any image that will print at 180dpi or above will give good results (and will not get a resolution warning)
LN

What's the best size for photos?

What's the optimum image size for the iPod Nano? I'd like to transfer images as small as possible.

I believe if you are only transferring the images and not the full-resolution photos, iTunes does the optimization for viewing so the pics will be small. You have a choice within the iTunes preferences.

Best image EXPORT settings for best quality

What should i have my export settings at when exporting to a jump drive to give to clients for web and printing use???
When i see my images uploaded on Facebook for example, the qulity looks poor which worries me that when printing the quality will be poor as well. Am i missing something in the setting for exporting? What is the proper way to export for the best quality image? HELP!
My settings now under Aperture>Presets>Image Export:
JPG Original size
300 dpi

t_hall10 wrote:
The information provided was helpful, but did not completely answer my question...
Are there specific settings with-in Aperture I can set for exporting so that clients have the ability to print as wanted and post on the web as wanted whithout losing any major amount of photo quality?
No, not for one size fits all.
I do appreciate this may be a frustrating answer, but non-the-less, that's how it is.
t_hall10 wrote:
Should I be gving 2 folders of pictures, one for web use and one for printing use? If I were to do that, what should the exporting setting be set for both folders?
Maybe, it's your choice.
Let's go through the settings.
The only real quality setting is for JPG compression. 12 is virtually no (lossless) compression but gives huge file sizes which may breach a websites limits.
A 16MP images on quality 12 will be about 22MB. 11 brings it down to 8MB and 10 down to 7MB. You'd be very hard pressed to see the difference between a 12 and a 10. But if you want to feel you are giving the best quality without the extreme file size, go for 11.
The the vast majority of web sites, like facebook, will either resize uploaded images and/or re-compress them. They may also crop them to a different aspect ratio to fit their browser software.
Many report the best size for upload to facebook, for small images is 960 pixels on the long side. For large images it's 2048. For different websites it may be different. It is discussed on many photography sites and blogs. You will find some promoting the 960 / 2048, and others with their own preferences. Here's a good one which also shows you many ways FB will mess with the images:
http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/images-photos-facebook-sizes-dimens ions-types
The safest colour space is sRGB (Mac profile: sRGB IEC61966-2.1) as it will more often be right than wrong. You should preview your images on screen with this profile to get a feel for how it will look and avoid unexpected colour shifts in your files. Ideally your screen should be calibrated so you know what you are giving them is accurate.
To understand the printing issue, try this exercise:
If you have a printer installed on your Mac, it probably also installed some printer profiles. In Aperture, look at one of your nicer vibrant images. From the view menu turn on 'Onscreen Proofing' and then from the 'Proofing Profile' sub menu, select one of your printer profiles and look at how the onscreen image changes. Repeat with each of the printing profiles and see how the image changes each time.
This is only a fraction of the colour shifts that will be occuring after you give your file to someone and they print it on their own uncalibrated system with their uncalibrated printer.
Many photographers don't offer full size images to their clients. They will usually give them smaller versions for their own use, which may include small size printing.
They will either do the main printing themself on their own calibrated printer, or work with a print shop, and may have installed calibrated profiles on their system for the shops printing equipment so they can use onscreen proofing to gauge what the pictures will look like when printed on that equipment.
But if you are just giving a file to someone, you lose all control of how they will print it. Even experienced photographers and computer users can struggle to make the prints match close to what they look like on screen.
Most often photos will appear too dark, or the colours look wrong, or it lacks sharpness. There are some settings on the export presets for gamma and blackpoint compensation. Gamma will brighten the image for when it's printing too dark, and blackpoint will try to stop the shadows turning black (within the chosen colour space). But as you don't know in advance whether the images are going to print too dark, or the shadows are turning black, you can't really set these for a one-size fits all scenario.
So there are not many settings to help you here.
You are actually moving into the realm of defining your product. You could, for example, ask the client which site they intend to publish the photos on, research that site and produce files optimized specifically for that site.
You also need to decide what size (resolution) files to give them for printing and whether you are happy giving away your full size images.
These choices will lead you to a number of a different files sizes as 'your product', all should be in sRGB colour space, and all with quality 10 or 11. For any client's who know how to make use of a wider clour space like Adobe RGB for printing, they will probably ask you up front to supply the print versions as such.
Next, for each size and usage, you now need to sharpen these images.
This is because sharpeing is best applied to images that have been resized to their intended output size and should be sharpened in accordance with how they will be viewed. Images displayed on computer screen generally need less sharpening than those that will be printed. Depening on the printer, the images may need some oversharpening in the file, in order to appear crisp and sharp in the print. As you won't be controlling the printing process you should probably avoid oversharpening. The bottom line is, if people are taking on the task of their own printing, they'll need to figure out what they are doing to get good results, or use a commercial printer.
Andy

Help understanding workflow for best quality.

Greetings.
I've read countless hours on this forum in the effort to understand this extremely complicated subject of getting my video out of my camera and onto a DVD in the best quality possible, and I'm still a little confused.
I'm not recording anything that is particularly high-action, but rather weddings, funerals, (yeah, I know), children's school programs, and my next big project is a seminar with keynote speaker.
I have three Sony HDR SR-11 cameras, which clearly record video as ACHDV and the video signal is 1080/60i (NTSC). I could also record in SD with an MPEG2 file.
I understand the a DVD is only SD at best, and am recording in HD since I have room for the files, and someday we might have better options for the video than we have now.
I started using iMovie, and have iMovie 11, and just love how easy and slick it is to make impressive looking stuff.
Once I import into iDVD to make the cool menus, I use "professional" encoding. I am about to produce a longer video than will fit on a single layer disk, and will be burning to a dual-layer DVD.
I own a copy of FCE, but was overwhelmed when I first started to use it, and on a time crunch for that project, reverted back to iMovie.
How I record events is to set up three cameras from different perspectives and then create a movie from the best angles, switching back and forth. This is a little cumbersome in iMovie, but I've had no trouble except for the date stamp disappearing and having to fix that on my most recent project. (once the date stamp is gone...it's hard to figure out where the clips are that you need for the next minute or two at a time).
I'm about to embark on an effort to market my work professionally, and am clearly working with amateur equipment, and without the time or resources to start all over with a $50K investment, would like to squeak by on what I have, and need to get the best quality possible out of it. Without any question, my market requires the movies to be on DVDs.
I'm most confused by interlacing/deinterlacing issue. I understand what the two are, but not what to do about it, if anything. I notice there is a button to check "deinterlace" in iMovie, and wonder why it's there and if it works and if I should be using it.
What would my specific advantages be, if any, to learning FCE? If a huge difference could be made, I would take the time to learn FCE, and I could lay out another couple hundred bucks for other software, if you had some to recommend that would greatly surpass what I'm doing, in place of iDVD or another intermediary I should be using.
I've been exporting with QT, using the following settings:
Video:
Compression: H.264
Quality: High
Key frame:24
Frame reordering: yes
Encoding: multi-pass
Dimensions: 960x540
Sound:
Format: Integer (Little Endian)
Sample: 44.1 kHz
Sample: 16-bit
Channels: Stereo
Then create menus in iDVD and burn to DVD.
Could you please give me feedback on my process, and try to answer my questions and clear up my confusion? I'd appreciate it so much!
Karen

Does FCE do this with multiple cameras? I'd want to make sure that FCS does it, before I buy it and am stuck with it, especially if FCE will do it and I already have it.
Yes and No
No - Multicamera is a function in FC Pro
Yes - but You do it in a very "Paper-clip" way. Put each Camera on one track ontop of each other
Camera 1 - v-tr 1
Camera 2 - v-tr 2
Camera 3 - v-tr 3
Then schrink the view of each track to 25% with Vireframe and put them into one corner
each (Not the same one)
Move them so that the sync. frame eg a photo flash is on the same time for all three video-tracks.
Now when playing one see the three views in paralell.
THIS demands that all Cameras has a common Sync-point (I use a photo-flash)
AND that no Camera was turned off during uptake.
IT is also important to know if any of the Cameras are sencitive to movements.
My small one is.
So I put mine on tripods !
This recording behaviour is the same if using FinalCut Pro ! Cont. recording and one sync. frame.
Then when playing in FinalCut Express - one use the transparicy tool to make the
Camera visibly that has the best picture.
When done the full movie (by adjusting transparicy - one re-size the Video tracks to 100% and let them fill view.
Now when playback - You see the edited result.
In FC Pro - You set Your Cameras as Multi Camera and set the sync frame. Now it will
in Viewer play (in 25% size) and You just point at the best view trough the movie
and it will assemble in TimeLine. You need not to be especially on target - easily adjusted
with roll-tool (I think) in after hand.
1 hour editing two Cameras takes for me (ME)
• FinalCut Express - about 10 hours
• FinalCut Pro - 2 hours to Capture - 1h15min to edit.
There is a program - CaptureMagic SD (HD) - that let's You copy directly to Your Mac
hard disk - NEED is one FW-port per Camera
(Port is something else than the connectors, My PowerBook G4 has one FW400 and one FW800 connector
BUT ONLY one FW-port - So I need to use a CMA-CIA-card with one FW-connector to get a second FW-port )
This set-up works and I get the material Captured in real-time. Resulting in editing time 1h 15min per hour movie.
Yours Bengt W

Best size for facebook marketing picture?

Hello,
has anyone experience with designing a facebook post / timeline picture for marketing purpose? If yes, what is the best size for desktop and mobile and how would you do the fill.
In my opinion it should be a size that fills a large part of the users screen so they must see. For the content I think a teaser and then a click to the webpage for more info.
I'm curious what other designers do or would do.
Thanks,
Jorik

Hi Jorik,
Facebook will actually resize any photo you post to fit the timeline. With that said, even if you upload an extremely large screensaver image 1600x1200px, it will appropriately fit and scale it according to the window size. This will also scale appropriately on mobile devices. Generally speaking, that means the larger your image the better. This is because when displayed on a desktop or large screen, you can still view it at a high resolution, but when scaled down to a mobile device, it won't make a difference. Note the maximum photo upload size is 2048x2048px.
One other thing to note, is that Timeline previews the image as more square and vertical. This means that if you have a landscape photo or very wide photo, the two sides will probably not be visible in the preview. So for marketing purposes, aim important content in the center of the composition. If you want your marketing content to PERFECTLY fit the Timeline post displayed on Facebook, you would want to design an image 404x404px.
For more Facebook Dimensions, check out this website: Facebook Timeline Image Sizes Made Easy
Hope it helps!
Clarice

What is the best import size for slide show images?

I have imported images sized 720 pix on the long end, and I'm not happy with the iDVD 08 quality - the images are soft. It's only a 50 image slide show. Can I use full resolution images and if so does iDVD size them down ? I am exporting Jpegs out of LightRoom so I can make any size/quality required.
Or, is there another app I should try that would give more professional results. I do like the themes in iDVD and the general interface. Is there an app that would perhaps take slide show produced elsewhere (like ProShowGold, SWF n Slide) and produce a theme/menu list/background etc., Soundslides Plus)
I am burning at 1X speed, and Pro encoding.
Thanks

I have imported images sized 720 pix on the long end, and I'm not happy with the iDVD 08 quality - the images are soft.
I'm not sure if you are in NTSC land or PAL land and the recommended sizes are slightly different. See Preparing images for iDVD slideshows at http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=iDVD/7.0/en/6675.html
Can I use full resolution images and if so does iDVD size them down ?
My experience has been the trying to use large, hi-res images actually produces slightly lower image quality than images I have resized and sharpened in Photoshop to the recommended sizes.
Or, is there another app I should try that would give more professional results. I do like the themes in iDVD and the general interface.
I just did some recent test and iDVD '08 gave as high a quality images as any of the others (and was better than iPhoto or iMovie created slideshow movies). It's important to remember that the images on the DVDs we create are low res (640x480 square pixels for NTSC) which is only about 0.3 megapixels. They were designed to be viewed on 'old-fashioned' CRT TV sets which have that same resolution. Viewing such a slideshow full screen on a computer monitor with 4 to 8 times more pixels is less than optimum.
I am burning at 1X speed, and Pro encoding.
Under 4 x is good. Pro encoding is a waste of time for such slideshows- you would get the best quality using 'Best Performance'.
If you ONLY want to view your slideshow on your computer - and NOT on a TV set - there are better, more high-resolution approaches you can take than using iDVD.
F Shippey

NEED THE BEST QUALITY QUICKTIME MOVIE FOR DVD! THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE.

I just finished a three minute piece that will be shown on DVD and projected to a sixteen foot screen. I usually just output a self-contained quicktime movie with current settings and then compress with bitvice. While I'm happy with those results, because of the size of this screening, I'm curious whether there might be better options for output to quicktime, such as uncompressed, etc?
I've also heard that I could output as a Jpeg, or a PNG file, but I'd love some advice on what works best and the workflow, as I need to get this done fast and can't really afford the time to experiment.
Any advice would be HUGELY appreciated. THANKS1

I usually just output a self-contained quicktime movie with current settings and then compress with bitvice.
That will provide the best quality ... the quality won't improve over what you had in FCP. Depending on your source media type(s), you may have had a better quality export IF you had edited and rendered with another setting.
-DH

'Photo's resizing? Best size for best quality?

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