Photos go soft in FCP

I had a dozen photos to be used as clips in FCP7, the next day I re-opened the project but all the photos had dis-connected somehow, I re-connected them but all f the photos were softer. I re-loaded the photos which became doubles, and the re-loaded pics were sharp while the original same pics were still soft. Any comments?

There are 9 different versions of iPhoto and they run on 9 different versions of the Operating System. The tricks and tips for dealing with issues vary depending on the version of iPhoto and the version of the OS. So to get help you need to give as much information as you can. Include things like:
- What version of iPhoto.
- What version of the Operating System.
- Details. As full a description of the problem as you can. For example, if you have a problem with exporting, then explain by describing how you are trying to export, and so on.
- History: Is this going on long? Has anything been installed or deleted? - Are there error messages?
- What steps have you tried already to solve the issue.
- Anything unusual about your set up? Or how you use iPhoto?
Anything else you can think of that might help someone understand the problem you have.

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My photos look "jittery" in FCP

I'm trying to do "pan and scan" and the files look ok in After Effects. I have the same settings in After Effects and my FCP timeline. Occasionally it looks ok when I export certain pictures, most times it looks miserable.
It seems that this is the way that most people are preparing their photos for dcoumentary style videos. Does anyone have a link of an "idiot's guide" on how to best do this?
Cheers,
dugmoore

I think I got it sorted. I reexported the After Effects sequence as a Quicktime, and used the Apple Prores 422 codec. The jitter and noise was 100% eliminated in some cases, in otheres the jitter was slightly present if the "pan and scan" was really fast. Even there it was improved.
Someone else mentioned to import it to FCP, then to export it, or send it to transcoding. I'm not sure about that or if I will try it, but I may run a test just to see if it improves it. If so I'll post the results.
Cheers,
dugmoore

Using Photos from Aperture in FCP X

I am brand new to FCP X, and am trying to use photos that I have in Aperture. When I bring the photos to the timeline, they are much smaller files that the files I have in Aperture. How can I get the full version into my project in FCP?

Thank you for your reply. I tried that, and it did fill the frame, which will be very useful on this project.
The problem I am having is that in Aperture the photos are failry big, for example, in Aperture one image is 1.66 MB
but when I see it in FCP it is a small file size, 49.6 KB:
Any ideas?

Cannot import photos or video into fcp x

I have the newest version of FCP X and cannot import photos from iphoto or video...anyone, anyone?

By clicking on the Photo Browser I assume that you mean the highlighted button in the screeen shot below:
As you can see, on my system a view of the iPhoto collection does appear. If/when you find the photo(s) you want, drag them into the the event.
So why doesn't this happen for you? Don't know. Where is your iPhoto library? Some location that Final Cut isn't expecting? Maybe searching for other posts re iPhoto in this community?
dick glendon

Export from Motion - Soft in FCP

I created a graphic in motion, output it into fcp and the type and graphics are a bit soft.
The export was to a DVCPro DV Quicktime file.
Anyone else notice this?

How do you fake a roundtrip?
I think I was talking out of my left nostril there.
What I meant was something like sending a clip on a roundtrip through motion, though you don't use the clip at all. Thus avoiding the file step.
Now I think it's a terribly ill-conceived idea.
Somebody else just posted the same problem, as far as I can tell:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=816621&tstart=0
This makes it a Real Issue.

How can I create a photo shutter effect in FCP?

How do I make an effect like a photo is being take during footage playback. I've done the effect before but when the picture "blinks" I want to see a white flash instead of a black one. Is there a way to change the color to white?

If I'm understanding correctly, use "Dip to color dissolve" with adjustments to the percentage of opacity at the start/end and threshold should do it.
Change the color from default black to white and adjust the length of the transition to simulate the quickness of the flash. Split the clip where you want the effect and add transition, set to 'edit on center'.
Hope it helps

Best Still Photo Size for FCP

This question has probably appeared before but here's my question: I have gathered several hundred digital photos which I want to import into FCP. These photos range from 104kb/72 pixels per inch to more than 13MB/400 pixels per inch.
On previous projects I seem to remember having problems when large clip sizes were used. I don't mind resizing the photos in Photoshop Elements if someone could tell me what size would give me the least problems and best results. I've heard that 720 X 480 or so with 72 pixels is OK. CAn someone confirm this or is teh 72 pixels going to fade out in FCP?

''When you make graphics for video in something such as Photoshop, you generally make them at 72 dpi''
No you dont
read what Jim and Studio have said;
You only find dpi settings in Photoshop because you can print to paper with it, you dont find dpi settings in FCP, Motion or Boris.
once you bring a stil photo or graphics into FCP, dpi is completly ignored by FCP because it doesnt know what to do with it. You can change the dpi setting to 5, 50 or 5000 in photoshop, FCP will ignore it.
dpi settings can only be used by three dimentional output devices like inkjet printers and film recorders.
read the reference:
http://www.scantips.com/no72dpi.html
G

CS4 soft (out of focus) print preview w/Epson Stylus Photo R260

The print preview and actual printed photo is softer/fuzzier/out of focus compared to the image in Photoshop CS4. Printer profile SPR260 270 UPGP is being used with Color Controls OFF.
I have just shifted from CS2 to CS4 and moved from a PC to a Mac Book Pro. I'm still on the steep part of the learning curve so any help would be greatly appreciated. This is a new problem had not encountered before with this printer.
David

Thank you Ramon.
The image is 1650 wide by 900 pixels high. Printing resolution is 300 ppi.
Print size is 5 1/2" wide by 3" high.
It is a tiff file.
OS version is 10.5.7
The CS4 11.0.1 update has been applied.
The monitor was just calibrated using a Pantone Eye-One LT.
Comparing the print preview on the monitor screen with the original image
also on the screen, the print preview is not quite as sharp as the original
and is slightly less saturated.
I checked out the workflow on Gary Ballard's web site and mine follows it.

Gimp Newbie Needs Basic Instructions in Formatting Stills for FCP

Sorry if this is redundant or too basic for the forum, but I'm new to Gimp (and honestly, photo editing in general) and need some basics. Tutorials, links, etc appreciated.
My question... In Photoshop, I can select a pixel aspect ratio that gives me the option of DV, widescreen, anamorphic, and others. Is there a similar feature in Gimp? If not, is there a process that you are using to prepare high resolution still photos for importing into FCP?
G5 Mac OS X (10.4.2)

*** is Gimp?
Anyway, I don't prepare hi-res, medium-res or even low-res photos for FCP. I import them and drop 'em on the Timeline (FCP will automatically scale them to Sequence and correct pixel aspect). Once I have them in FCP I can see how they look on an external TV monitor. After viewing them there, if they need any PS adjustments, I right-click on it in the Timeline and choose "Open in Editor" (Photoshop is set as my default still image editor in FCP preferences).
If adjustments are needed, it's typically rotation, contrast*, color balance*, fixing areas of the image that might cause morie patterns on a TV, etc. When I'm done in PS, I save the changes and close the image and jump back over to FCP where the changes were automatically updated to the image on the Timeline.
-DH
* = can also be done right in FCP with the 3-Way Color Corrector

How to get rid of an unwanted rippling effect in FCP?

I imported a still photo from Photoshop into FCP and tried to apply movement to it. If I only move it sideways, it looks fine, but when I keyframe a rotation on the photo, I get a weird rippling effect that looks like the pixels are out of sync.
I then tried keyframing the same photo in After Effects with the same rotation and it looks fine in AE. However, when I render it out and bring it into FCP, I get the rippling effect again.
Last, but not least, instead of rendering the After Effects timeline as an .mov file, I tried it as a .jpg sequence, .tif sequence, .png sequence and just about everything else you can think of.
So.....I'm at the end of everything I can think of. If anyone has any other suggestions, I would be very grateful.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tiffany

Are you watching on a Mac - or on a TV?
You should always preview on a TV or pro monitor - FCP gives a very low resolution preview which is very misleading.
Also, you could try adding a little motion blur . . . that's what it's for.
Andy
Quad 8GB. 250+500 HDs. G-Raid 1TB. NORTON. FCP 5.1.1. Shake 4.1. Sony HVR Z1E Mac OS X (10.4.7)
"I've taught you all I know, and still you know nothing".

Poor quality photos and type

I am doing 2 projects, first one is a video of a trip I took, where I have added type, imported in some special pieces I created in After Effects etc. After running if off and importing it into dvdstudio pro it looks great. The problem is with project #2, my photo montage. In FCP I brought high quality photos in and added type to the photos (just as I added type in my video project), but after running if off the exact same way as the video (basic export, self contained movie, current settings) and bring it in to dvdstudio pro, the quality is horrible. Type is pixilated, photos are a bit pixilated too. What am I doing wrong? It's not a monitor thing, I have burned a dvd and viewed it on tv and it was just as bad.
Thanks for any help you can give me,
Michelle

Its not possible yet to figure out whether your problem is with FCP or with DVDSP (or both).
You need to hook up a TV to view the work in progress. Run firewire out from the computer to your camera then cables from your camera to the TV. Your camera manual will show you how to connect it to your TV if you are unfamilier with the process.
Once the TV monitor is connected, watch the sequence.
Does it demonstrate problems?
If so, lets fix them here.
If not, the issues are being introduced in the mpeg2 encoding.
What settings are you using?
x

Importing photos, where is my capture scratch folder

Where is my Capture Scratch folder when I import photos?
I am making a claymation movie with about 2000 phtotos that I took with my digital camera. Here is my work flow:
1. Import photos into iphoto - everything works fine
2. Open FCP and create a new project.
3. File>import>files>photos
4. I select all the photos>choose
5. Photos are imported into FCP browser.
Question: I checked my capture scratch and there is no file and no photos. I want to be organized and keep media in one location. I have captured videos from a camera and everything works like it should be.

Newer versions of iPhoto store the pictures in a "Bundle", a special type of folder. Applications use the same method to store their individual components. Normally, bundles can only be opened from the Finder by right clicking and choosing "Show Package Contents" from the drop down menu.
Tampering with, renaming or moving the bundle in iPhoto's Library can render it unusable and you might no longer be able to access your pictures.
Now that they are in there, your best option is to go through the pictures in the iPhoto interface, select which ones you want to use and export them in their native size to another location, such as FCP's Capture Scratch folder, as per previous posts.
How you do this depends which version of iPhoto you have, but it will be either via File > Export or by using the Share menu bar item. This will of course copy the pictures.
For the future, dismiss iPhoto when it starts up with your camera or SD card connected. Instead, launch *Image Capture* from the Applications folder. The interface is largely self-explanatory. You will be able to import the pictures directly to a location of your choosing.

FCP X will not auto save my work

I have been working all morning on a photo slide show in FCP X and I will enter several pictures, transistions, keyframes, etc and then I will add some of my custom generators that I make in Motion as well. When I finish, I quit final cut normally and go and work in motion for a while. When I start final cut again after an hour or so, my project has been reverted back to the very beginning state of my work and I loose all but the first 5 minutes. It does not say, "media disconnected" it just simply deletes everything and starts me over like I had not done any work.
Pretty much a unistall the product and use something else for my video editing needs if there is not a fix for this. I can't put 16 hours into a project to then have final cut delete all my work automatically.
PS I did edit a few of my custom generators in motion, but it is deleteing just simple images I places in the timeline also.

A lot of people are reporting the auto-save problem. A clear indication it has stopped working is that the Undo functionality also stops working. Personally, I have never encountered this problem, so there has to be some sort of configuration that only some people have which is causing this.
I think you should probably use something else for editing until Apple releases a fix. Especially for anything important.

My camera has frozen, the shutter will not open for me to take a photo.

My camera has frozen, the shutter will not open for me to take a photo.

try soft reset dude (press and hold power and home button together, NOTE: the only time you let go of those buttons is when you see the apple logo, when you see the apple logo: let go quickly. your iPhone should restart, if NOT, turn it on and do soft reset again)
then test your camera.

Need to mask a color matte

Hi all,
I'm (re) learning Premiere (CS6), transitioning off of FCP 7. In FCP 7, I constantly used the color matte feature, made it black, 70% opacity and added a soft focus to it (shown below).
I do this to draw attention to an area of the screen I want the viewer to focus on (usually software demos highlighting a feature).
In Premiere, I've gotten as far as adding a black color matte with 70% opacity. That covers the entire image with the matte. Now how do I cut through the matte? Scale Height/Width changes the matte itself, but I want to do the reverse, like the photo below. In FCP mattes can be scaled horizontally and vertically, producing the desired effect, below.
I'm still learning this tool, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

There are many ways to skin this cat. For nice straight lines like your example, try this:
For the purposes of being able to see this better, I created a green (0,0,255) matte to put on the sequence fist.
Create a title. Draw a rectangle that takes up approximately one third of the frame. I used a rectangle that is 1280X240. Set it to be 70% black.
Copy the rectangle and paste the copy at the bottom of the frame.
Your result should look like this:
When put over the timeline, apply a Fast Blur set to Vertical and 25% or so.
This isn't the best image for this example but it is what I had on hand:
For something a little different, use a track matte made with a title if you wish. With the original on track one and the copy on track two, darken the clip on track two. I prefer to darken track two and reverse but you can darken one if you wish. You can do this with Brightness and Contrast or you can get fancy with color correction.
Create a title with a white circle or oval or whatever, placed over the subject to be highlighted. (Multiple shapes can be combined in the title)
Apply the track matte to the clip on track two. Check the Reverse checkbox.
Simple. Looks like this:
I didn't blur the matte this time, but I could have. This one would be blurred in the vertical and in the horizontal.
Please note that this does not like changes to the Motion Effect. If you are resizing the clip or image, remember to put the matte in a new sequence and nest the new sequence to be used as the matte.
Now, if you really, really want to blur the edges of the garbage matte, apply the Roughen Edges effect, set the border to 25 and the edge sharpness to zero. Max out the scale for more accurate edges.

Photos go soft in FCP

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