Pleae Help me, I've tried it all, Color management broken? (Photoshop only)

Hey guys... I'm at the brink of despair....
whenever I open an Image in Photoshop its colors are completely corrupted (color management broken)
I've tried the following things so far....
Reset Photoshop setting vie holding ctrl + alt + **** while startup - didn't work
Synchronize color settings via Bridge - didn't work
Reinstall Photoshop - didn't work
Adjust my monitor - didn't work
Opened through bridge - didn't work
Does anybody know why its only Photoshop ?
All other software don't seem to have problems, I viewed them in Irfanview and the windows picture viewer and they are correct, but as soon as I open them in Photoshop they're broken..
The color Profiles are the same (Ps settings are sRGB, the image is also set to sRGB) yet broken colors.
Mostly the saturation/brightness and the the color spectrum seems to be incorrect...
Anyone with helpful advices ?
I am studying Communications-design and need to work with PS
Please help
Love
Oz

Ah got ya, with some images, the colors always doffer, sometimes I open an .jpg in Camera raw first to adjust some values and open it in ps afterwards and I dunno why some pics just won't be displayed correctly...
So My Monitor is not a really good one (Samsung Syncmaster p2470) its default ICC profile is: Samsung - Natural color pro 1.0 ICM
I realized that pressing alt + ctrl + shift doesnt affect the color settings... What's the default for that btw ?
So is my monitor even able to display the whole adobe rgb color spectrum or should I go for srgb instead ?
And after setting the color profile for the monitor, should I set my color settings in ps to "monitor" or to the color profile itself ?
But no matter what I should leave the "View" section right ?
Thx
Oz

Similar Messages

Trying to Understand Color Management

The title should have read, "Trying to Understand Color Management: ProPhoto RGB vs, Adobe RGB (1998) my monitor, a printer and everything in between." Actually I could not come up with a title short enough to describe my question and even this one is not too good. Here goes: The more I read about Color Management the more I understand but also the more I get confused so I thouht the best way for me to understnand is perhaps for me to ask the question my way for my situation.
I do not own an expensve monitor, I'd say middle of the road. It is not calibrated by hardware or any sophisticated method. I use a simple software and that's it. As to my printer it isn't even a proper Photo filter. My editing of photos is mainly for myself--people either view my photos on the net or on my monitor. At times I print photos on my printer and at times I print them at a Print Shop. My philosophy is this. I am aware that what I see on my monitor may not look the same on someone else's monitor, and though I would definitely like if it it were possible, it doesn't bother me that much. What I do care about is for my photos to come close enough to what I want them to be on print. In other words when the time comes for me to get the best colors possible from a print. Note here that I am not even that concerned with color accuracy (My monitor colors equalling print colors since I know I would need a much better monitor and a calibrated one to do so--accurately compare) but more rather concerned with color detail. What concerns me, is come that day when I do need to make a good print (or afford a good monitor/printer) then I have as much to work with as possible. This leads me to think that therefore working with ProPhoto RGB is the best method to work with and then scale down according to needs (scale down for web viewing for example). So I thought was the solution, but elsewhere I read that using ProPhoto RGB with a non-pro monitor like mine may actually works against me, hence me getting confused, not understanding why this would be so and me coming here. My goal, my objective is this: Should I one day want to print large images to present to a gallery or create a book of my own then I want my photos at that point in time to be the best they can be--the present doesn't worry me much .Do I make any sense?
BTW if it matters any I have CS6.

To all of you thanks. First off yes, I now have begun shooting in RAW. As to my future being secure because of me doing so let me just say that once I work on a photo I don't like the idea of going back to the original since hours may have been spent working on it and once having done so the original raw is deleted--a tiff or psd remains. As to, "You 're using way too much club for your hole right now." I loved reading this sentence :-) You wanna elaborate? As to the rest, monitor/printer. Here's the story: I move aroud alot, and I mean a lot in other words I may be here for 6 months and then move and 6 months later move again. What this means is that a printer does not follow me, at times even my monitor will not follow me so no printer calbration is ever taken into consideration but yes I have used software monitor calibration. Having said this I must admit that time and again I have not seen any really noticeale difference (yes i have but only ever so slight) after calibrating a monitor (As mentioned my monitors, because of my moving are usually middle of the road and limited one thing I know is that 32bits per pixel is a good thing). As to, "At this point ....you.....really don't understand what you are doing." You are correct--absolutely-- that is why I mentioned me doing a lot of reading etc. etc. Thanks for you link btw.
Among the things I am reading are, "Color Confidence Digital Photogs Guide to Color Management", "Color Management for Photographers -Hands on Techniques for Photoshop Users", "Mastering Digital Printing - Digital Process and Print Series" and "Real World Color Management - Industrial Strength Production Techniques" And just to show you how deep my ignorance still is, What did you mean by 'non-profiled display' or better still how does one profile a display?

How can I delete a file? At the moment I delete each pic and it takes ages! I tried select all and managed to delete all my 2300 photos!! I've got them back but I've also got back 980 which I had already deleted 1 by 1 over the past 6 months! Help!

Please help! How can I delete a file without deleting all my photos? I have just managed to delete all my more than 2000 photographs by choosing' Select all' and then delete. But I thought only 'all' the photographs in the file I had open would be selected! I have got them back, but I've also got back more than 800 others that I'd deleted SINGLY over the last 6 months! HELP!

Put a Photo in the iPhoto Trash.
iPhoto Menu -> Empty Trash
This removes the photo from iPhoto and the Hard Disk (in every version of iPhoto except iPhoto11)
In iPhoto 11 the file goes to the System Trash, you need to empty that too.
Regards
TD

When I try to export pictures of the night sky in Lightroom, they always look brighter than they are in the preview and are filled with white noise/grain. I've tried changing my color management settings, but to no avail. What can I do to fix this?

imgur: the simple image sharer
That's the picture^
Also, doing noise reduction ruins the colour.
Why can't it just export properly...

Since it has always been very basic to backup your computer and all it's data, Apple provides no way for you to transfer music from your iPhone back to your computer. As you know, you can re-download all iTunes purchases, but music that you ripped yourself you'll have to just re-rip again.
You can try and find 3rd party applications that might help you. I'm sure you'll pay, however.
Let this be a very important lesson learned.
Best.

Photoshop Help | Printing with color management in Photoshop CS6

This question was posted in response to the following article: http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/printing-color-management-photoshop1.html

This is usually done in the printer driver's console.
What make/model printer do you have?
Good luck,
Hunt

Help - Color Management Confusion!

I'm hoping someone can give me some clear guidance as to how to configure my software to integrate color management so that what I see on my monitor is comparable to what I print or post on the web. I've read all I can find on-line and looked through a number of books and magazines, but as my reading increases, so does my confusion - too many menus, options, links and connections. I'll describe what I have in terms of hardware and software in as much detail as possible. My hope is that someone can help me figure out how to coordinate color management across all platforms and outputs.
I run an HP desktop with an ASUS IPD monitor. I have ColorMunki and have reguarly conducted their diagnostic, which gives me an updated monitor profile every two weeks - when a new profile is created, it becomes my default under Windows 7 Control Panel Color Management. I print with an Epson Stylus Photo R1900 with Epson paper and ink. I use the printer and paper profiles supplied by Epson for the R1900 and specific papers.
On the other end, I have Nikon photo equipment. I set the color space on my cameras to ProPhoto and I shoot exclusively in Nikon raw format - .NEF. I shoot a D90 and a D7000 with 12M and 16M files respectively. I download directly from the SD card using Windows Explorer and then import into Lightroom 3.
I have Lightroom 3 and Photoshop CS5 Extended. I use Lightroom to import raw files into the catalog and to do basic editing. From there, I publish to Smugmug as .TIFF files - directly from Lightroom. I also export files from Lightroom to Photoshop CS5 Extended and save them as .PSD and .JPEG files. The files that I export to Smugmug look pretty good - similar to what I see on my screen. My real conundrum is with the Epson printer and Lightroom/Photoshop. What I see on my monitor is very different from what prints. From both platforms. As a rule, the shots are too dark and the colors are often very muted. This is especially true with images of people and skin tones. They often come out looking pale gray or blue.
Right now, my solution is to tweak and print until I get something close enough to print, while the image on my monitor looks horrible. Needless to say, this is not a viable solution for the long term - it is too expensive and time consuming. I've tried to read and then adjust adjust both programs, but I'm confused as to what to set where. I've taken to explorting Lightroom files into Photoshop to use the soft-proof capability. it works better but still not great and not consistent. When I do the Photoshop soft-proof, I see signficant portions of most images as "out of gamut>" I also notice that these areas are often the ones with odd colors.
My problem, (well, one of them) is the multitude of menus that have color management inputs - how do I make sure they are all working together and reinforcing each other instead of working at cross purposes? In Lightroom, I have Page Setup and Print Preferences, as well as Color Management options in the Print Module right hand panel. In Photoshop, I have Print and Page setups, as well as Color Management menus. There are also the Proof menus to consider.
In Photoshop, softproofing, I think I ned to select teh printer profile so that Photoshop is showing me how the printer will interpret the color space. I also think I need to be consistent in how I define the workspace - from Nikon to Lightroom to Photoshop to Epson. If I use ProPhoto with my camera do I need to use that in every circumstance? Should I switch to Adobe RGB? I have printer setting color space turned off in both LR and PS.
Can someone walk me through any or all of this? Right now, all of these moving parts is making me dizzy. It's said that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. This proves the point. Three months ago, I had color management problems but had no idea what such a thing was. Now, I know a lot more about it, but my results are no better - worse in some respects. Anyone who can help will earn major Karma points and hae my undying gratitude for several months. Sorry - that's all the compensation I can offer!
Thanks in advance for any help.

Lundberg02 wrote:
is that the hand of God in the picture?
That was a nearly mature tornado forming in Nebraska, and it dissipated at the last moment because at that time the sun went down and the temperature dropped rapidly. I was glad, because I was camping in a travel trailer at the time, and everyone knows trailers attract tornados.
Lundberg02 wrote:
Please explain why and under what circumstances anyone would want to use a device independent profile as a monitor profile, which should be a device dependent profile.
Here's one example, to answer your specific question:
You have a monitor that provides sRGB performance (e.g., via a specific sRGB setting). You judge (and/or ensure via your own calibration) that it provides satisfactory sRGB color accuracy for your needs, so you set the monitor profile to sRGB, which is accurate in this case.
What does this do for you?
Images displayed in Internet Explorer, which assumes your monitor is sRGB regardless of your profile, are now properly color-managed because you have made IE's assumption valid. By the way, Microsoft does not appear to be going to change this behavior any time soon.
Untagged images, considering a majority of untagged images assume sRGB encoding, are displayed properly by apps that just pass them through to the display. Some browsers do this.
sRGB images (the majority) are displayed properly by non-color-managed apps. If you choose to set your preferred working space to sRGB, then your own processed images will display properly using your non-color-managed apps. Such apps include various viewers, the thumbnails in Windows Explorer, etc.
The sRGB IEC61966-2.1 profile is a clean, well-formed color profile and works well in virtually every color-managed application. It's the Windows default, so you can imagine most apps are very well tested with it.
Screen grabs are already in the sRGB color space, so if your working space is sRGB then you gain simplicity and don't have gotchas when mixing screen grabs back into your workflow.
Since the color-gamut is not wide, the distance between adjacent colors in a 24 bit color environment is smaller - the display of gradients looks smoother, and you might not crave 30 bit color quite so much.
There are other subtle advantages as well, simply because so much of software development throughout history has assumed the representation of color images on computers is sRGB. It's akin to "going with the flow".
In short, setting up a soup-to-nuts sRGB system means more images match more often across more applications with a system set up this way. If I'm not mistaken, that's about what the original poster is asking about, which is why RikRamsay's response is not unreasonable.
And there are, of course, some specific disadvantages to doing this.
For one thing, one does not have the direct ability to work with a wider gamut of colors. There are those who wish to work in wider gamut color spaces, have wide gamut monitors, and wide gamut printers. Brighter, better managed colors may well help such a person set his/her work off from the crowd. This is starting to become more and more important in this day and age of better and better wide gamut hardware.
It's not straightforward to set up a system so that its sRGB response is accurate, though it is doable. Can you trust the factory sRGB calibration of a monitor that advertises sRGB response characteristics?
-Noel

Confused about Color Management in CS5 (Photos appearing differently in all other programs)

I recently noticed this and it's been driving me crazy; when I view photos in Photoshop CS5 they appear significantly lighter/more washed out than when viewed in other programs like Zoombrowser, Digital Photo Professional or just in a regular Windows folder using Filmstrip mode (Windows XP). When opening the same photo in both CS5 and Zoombrowser and switching back and forth between the two windows the difference is very apparent...for example, one of the photos I compared was of a person in a black shirt -- in CS5 (lighter/washed out) the folds in the shirt were very obvious, but in Zoombrowser (darker, more contrast/saturation) the folds were nearly invisible and it looked like just solid black. Now, after messing around with the settings in both Photoshop and in Zoombrowser I've found a few ways to get the photos to look the same in the two programs; one way gives them both the lighter/more washed out appearance and another way gives them both the darker appearance with more contrast and saturation. My problem is that I'm not sure which view is accurate.
I use a NEC MultiSync LCD1990SXi monitor with SpectraView II calibration software and calibrate it every 2 weeks using these calibration settings (screenshot): http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/8826/settingsx.jpg
In the SpectraView II Software under Preferences there's an option that says "Set as Windows Color Management System Monitor Profile - Automatically selects and associates the generated ICC monitor profile with the Color Management System (CMS)." This option is checked. Also, when I open the Windows' Color Management window there's only one option displayed, which is "LCD1990SXi #######" (the ####### represents my monitor's serial number).
I assume the above settings are all correct so far, but I'm not sure about the rest.
Here are my current default Color Settings in CS5 (screenshot): http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/666/photoshopcolorsettings.jpg
Changing these settings around doesn't seem to make the photo appear much different. However, when I go to Edit -> Assign Profile, then click off of "Working RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1" and instead click Profile and select "LCD1990SXi ####### 2011-06-21 18-30 D65 2.20" from the drop-down menu, the picture becomes darker with more contrast and saturation and matches the picture in Zoombrowser. Also, if I select "Adobe RGB (1998)" from the drop-down menu it's very similar in terms of increased darkness and contrast but the saturation is higher than with the LCD1990SXi setting. Another way I've found to make the image equally dark with increased contrast and saturation is to go to View -> Proof Setup -> Custom and then click the drop-down menu next to "Device to Simulate" and select "LCD1990SXi ####### 2011-06-21 18-30 D65 2.20" again.
Alternatively, to make both images equally light and washed out I can go to Zoombrowser -> Tools -> Preferences and check the box next to "Color Management: Adjust colors of images using monitor profile." This makes the image in Zoombrowser appear just like it does in CS5 by default.
Like I said, I'm confused as to which setting is the accurate one (I'm new to Color Management in general so I apologize for my ignorance on the subject).
It would seem that assigning the LCD1990SXi profile in CS5 would be the correct choice in order to match the monitor calibration given the name of the profile but the "Adjust colors of images using monitor profile" option in Zoombrowser sounds like it would do the same thing as well. Also, I've read that Photoshop is a color managed software whereas Zoombrowser and Windows Picture and Fax Viewer are not which makes me think that maybe the lighter/washed out version seen in Photoshop is correct. So which version (light or dark) is the accurate one that I should use to view and edit my photos? Thanks in advance for any help or info.

Sorry for the late reply;
But before we go there or make any assumptions, it's important for
you to determine whether you're seeing consistent color in your
color-managed applications and only inconsistent color in those that are
not color-managed. For that you'll need to do a little research to see
if the applications in which you're seeing darker colors have
color-management capability (and whether it is enabled).
I opened the same picture in 7 different applications and found that the 6 of the 7 displayed the photo equally dark with equally high contrast when compared to the 7th application (CS5). The other 6 applications were Zoombrowser EX, Digital Photo Professional, Windows Picture and Fax Viewer, Quicktime PictureViewer, Microsoft Office Picture Manager and Firefox.
However, at least two of these programs offer color management preferences and, when used, display the photo (from what I can tell) exactly the same as Photoshop CS5's default settings. The two programs are two Canon programs: Zoombrowser EX and Digital Photo Professional. Here's the setting that needs to be selected in Zoombrowser in order to match up with CS5 (circled in red):
And here's the setting in Digital Photo Professional that needs to be selected in order to match up with CS5 (again, circled in red):
*Note: When the option above "Monitor Profile" is selected ("Use the OS settings") the image is displayed exactly the same as when the monitor profile is selected. It's only when sRGB is selected that it goes back to the default darker, more contrasty version.
So with the red-circled options selected, all three programs (CS5, ZB, DPP) display the images the same way; lighter and more washed out. What I'm still having trouble understanding is if that ligher, more washed out display is the accurate one or not...I've read several tutorials for all three programs which only make things more confusing. One of the tutorials says to always use sRGB if you want accurate results and *never* to use Monitor Profile and another says that, if you're using a calibrated monitor, you should always select Monitor Profile under the color management settings...so I'm still lost, unfortunately.
What I also don't understand is why, when the monitor profile is selected in CS5, the image is displayed in the dark and contrasty way that the other programs display it as by default but when the monitor profile is selected in Digitial Photo Professional it displays it in the lighter, more washed out way that CS5 displays it using CS5's default settings (sRGB). Why would selecting the monitor profile in DPP display the photo the same way as when sRGB is selected in Photoshop? And vice versa...why would selecting the monitor profile in Photoshop display the photo the same way as when sRGB is selected in DPP?
I feel like I'm missing something obvious here...which I probably am. Again, I'm very new to this stuff so pardon my ignorance on the topic.
By the way, I find that the way that the non-color managed programs (Windows Picture and Fax Viewer et al.) display the photos is more aesthetically pleasing to the eye than the duller, more washed out display that CS5 gives the photos, but ultimately what I want to see in these programs (especially PS5 where I'll be doing the editing) is the accurate representation of the actual photo itself...i.e. what it's supposed to look like and not a darker (or lighter) variant of it.
So just to reiterate my questions:
Why does selecting Monitor Profile under the color management settings in DPP give the same display results as the default sRGB profile in CS5 and vice versa? (CS5 with monitor profile selected having the same display results as DPP with the sRGB profile selected)
When using CS5 with it's default color management settings (sRGB), using DPP with the Monitor Profile selected, and using Zoombrowser EX with "Adjust color of images using monitor profile" selected this results in all three programs displaying the same lighter, washed-out images...is this lighter, more washed-out display of the images shown in these three programs the accurate one?
I noticed when opening an image in Firefox it had the same darker, contrasty look as the other non-color managed applications had. Assuming that the CS5 default settings are accurate, does this mean that if I edit a photo in CS5, save it, and upload it to the internet that other people who are viewing that image online will see it differently than how it's supposed to look (i.e. in a non-color-managed way?) If so, this would seem to indicate that they'd see a less-than-flattering version of the photo since if their browser naturally displays images as darker and more contrasty and I added more darkness and contrast to the image in CS5, they'd be seeing a version of the photo that's far too dark and probably wouldn't look very good. Is this something I have to worry about as well?
I apologize for the lengthy post; I do tend to be a bit OCD about these things...it's a habit I picked up once I realized I'd been improperly editing photos on an incorrectly calibrated monitor for years and all that time and effort had been spent editing photos in a certain way that looked good on my incorrectly calibrated monitor but looked like crap on everyone else's screen, so the length and detail of this post comes from a desire to not repeat similar mistakes by editing photos the wrong way all over again. Again, thanks in advance for all the help, it's greatly appreciated!

Help please. Vista / CS3 Color Managment issue. Going nuts...

Hi all.
I'm in desperate need for some assistance since time is running out on a project that needs Powerpoint.
If I use color management in Bridge and look at my NEF and Jpegs they look somewhat desaturated and lacking vibrance as in comparison to another program, like AcdSee.
When i open up in Camera Raw, and then Photoshop, it looks the same. But hwen I copy to Powerpoint - it looks very vibrant and with a lot of saturation, luminance and hue. But it looks much better "eyecatching".
If I shut of color correction in Bridge, then the picture looks just as vibrant and nice as the end result in powerpoint and it looks just as good as in AcdSee! But the steps in between, that is Camera Raw and Adobe looks awful, and I'm supposed to make some color adjustments etc, making it absolutely impossible to know what the end resutl will be, since the color management is ON in Camera Raw and Photoshop.
I've callibrated my monitor, spyder3, I've set Adobe Bridge to use CS3 for monitor. I've tried alternating between Adobe RGB and sRGB. I've tried everything there is, but the colors in Camera Raw and Phtoshop are very wrong in relation to the end result. Can I shut down color management in Photoshop? Change it to Vista's? I know Adobe is right at the end of the day, it just doesn't work with the end result!
To add on to this, I've tried AcdSee and colors are correct in the RAW format. Thus, they don't have the same color correction and this looks exactly like the end result in the powerpoint.

>> the colors in Camera Raw and Phtoshop are very wrong in relation to the end result
Then you need to Photoshop> Convert to profile> Save As to the profile based on the end result because the end result sounds like an unmanaged application.
This is likely sRGB -- have you tried this?
What monitor, what did you profile it to (2.2 gamma/6500)?
http://www.gballard.net/psd/assignconvert.html

When importing photos from computer, all colors change to garish saturated

I just imported some photos(jpgs) from my Windows XP/hard drive into Lightroom for the first time. All the colors changed to really garish, bright, highly saturated, in all views, on all photos. Faces are bright red, ground is bright orange, red clothing is blinding.
This has happened one other time: when I make PDFs from Acrobat Professional. The colors turn all highly saturated and unnatural. Does anyone know why this is or how to help? I have 10,000 photos and they look fine in Photoshop, my Canon Zoombrowser, Windows viewers, everywhere else.
Thanks.

>Then I opened all 4 (including raw file) and the Raw, Adobe, and prophoto were identical, the remaining srgb pic was alot redder, like I had a red filter almost, just really warm
In a color managed app, the three exports in prophotoRGB, adobeRGB and sRGB should look almost identical safe for some minor shifts if you have a wide gamut display or a display with a primary very different from sRGB (certain laptop displays). If they look different, and you are using a color managed app, chances are your monitor calibration is no good. Apps that are color managed are Photoshop, Safari, Apple's preview, Lightroom, recent versions of irfanview (older were not managed). Apps that are not color managed and will give you the wrong color on any display are Windows picture viewer pre vista, (internet) explorer, Google Picasa, etc. Let me assure you that Lightroom correctly exports to sRGB. They did not get this wrong.
Conclusion: On a calibrated normal gamut display sRGB exports WILL look identical to Lightroom when you are using color managed apps to view your export. In non-managed apps, the colors will be close but there will be only minor color shifts that are usually only visible to critical viewers. On wide gamut displays in color managed apps there might be small differences in saturation i certain limited cases (flowers and such).

Color management issues with Flash CS3, please help?

Hello everyone.
I am having issues with color from a Jpeg image produced in Photoshop CS4
after importing onto the stage in Flash CS3. The color in Flash changes the image to a lighter less saturated state. Yuk.
Here is a link to a screen capture to show you what's happening (for a bigger view):
http://www.rudytorres.com/color/weirdcolor.png
As you can see the front image is the Photoshop image showing the sRGB color profile embedded but Flash (behind) changes that color.
This client is quite picky and she will notice this difference.
If any one can help, please.
- Rudy
P.S. It's a button somewhere, Right?

Dougfly,
Only an hour wasted? Lucky you. Color is an incredibly complex subject. First, forget matching anything to the small LCD on the back of your camera. That's there as a basic guide and is affected by the internal jpg algorithm of your camera.
2nd, you're not really takeing a color photo with your digital camera, but three separate B&W images in a mosaic pattern, exposed thru separate red, green and blue filters. Actual color doesn't happen until that matrix is demosaiced in either your raw converter, or the in-camera processor (which relies heavily on camera settings, saturation, contrast, mode, etc.)
Having said the above, you can still get very good, predictable results in your workflow. I have a few color management articles on my website that you might find very helpful. Check out the Introduction to Color Management and Monitor and Printer Profiling. In my opinion, a monitor calibration device is the minimum entry fee if you want decent color.
http://www.dinagraphics.com/color_management.php
Lou

I recently sync one song to my friends iphone 4 and it erased all the music and only put that one song. I tried backing it up but it didnt help. How do I put all previous music back on the iphone?

I recently sync one song to my friends iphone 4 and it erased all the music and only put that one song. I tried backing it up but it didnt help. How do I put all previous music back on the iphone?

Re- sync the phone with the computer it was originally synced with.

My screen continually freezes up. I've tried closing all apps that are openfreezby double clicking on the home button and closing them. I have held down on the home button and start button simultaneously and it still freezes. Can someone out the help me?

MY screen continually freezes up. I've tried closing all apps that are open and have held down the home button and start button simultaneously but neither helped. Can someone out there help me?

Well the next couple of things to try would be to reset all settings, and if that doesn't help, it's probably time to restore the iOS software.
Settings>General>Reset>Reset all settings. That will take all settings on the iPad back to factory defaults. It will not delete anything and you will not lose any data, but you will have to enter all settings again ...WiFi passwords, enable Siri, select your wallpaper, adjust brightness, turn on location services and set privacy settings, etc, etc.
You can read about restoring the software here.
iTunes: Restoring iOS software - Support - Apple
Should you decide to restore the iOS, it is extremely important that you back up first so that you can restore from the backup and then sync with iTunes afterward in order to restore all content back to the iPad. It is all covered in the kb article.
If you do not sync with iTunes, then I assume that you backup with iCloud. In that case you can erase the device in Settings>General>Reset>Erase all content and settings. Once again, backing up with I loud is I,operative before you do this so that you can restore from the iCloud backup after you erase the iPad and start over again with activation.
You should read this first before you restore from either backup.
How to backup and restore from a backup
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1766
This is a must read before you erase the iPad should you decide to go that route.
iOS: Understanding 'Erase All Content and Settings' - Support - Apple

When I print a photo to my epson printer, it comes out larger than the original photo - so the photo prints beyond the borders. Tried readjusting all sorts of things but nothing helps. I had this same problem with my Canon. any ideas?

When I print a photo to my epson printer, it comes out larger than the original photo - so the photo prints beyond the borders. Tried readjusting all sorts of things but nothing helps. I had this same problem with my Canon. any ideas?

Crop to the print size before pringing
LN

I tried to sinc my photos and i ended up deleting off my phone all the pictures. i only ended up with one folder, and i cant figure out how to put rest of folders from my computer back on my phone.....help

i tried to sinc my photos and i ended up deleting off my phone all the pictures. i only ended up with one folder, and i cant figure out how to put rest of folders from my computer back on my phone.....help
and on a second problem. I need to know for sure that my contacts are backed up on my computer

Create a parent folder on your computer to store the named folders of photos that you want transferred to your iPhone. Under the Photos tab for your iPhone sync preferences with iTunes, select the parent folder. All named folders of photos within will be transferred to your iPhone as separate folders or albums.
Regarding your 2nd question, this should be easy. Your contacts should be available on your computer with or without an iPhone or any cell phone, which can be lost or stolen.
Although contacts are included with your iPhone's backup which is updated by iTunes as the first step during the iTunes sync process, not a good idea to depend on this either since the iPhone backup includes a significant amount of other data. Contacts are designed to be synced with a supported address book app on your computer. With Windoze, this can be with Outlook 2003, 2007, or 2010 along with syncing calendar events and notes, or with the address book app used by Outlook Express with XP and by Windows Mail with Vista and Windows 7 called Windows Contacts for syncing contacts only.

I have updated my phone to 4.3.3 and I was told there would be more bells and whistles. I haven't found more texting sounds. Have I updated my phone wrong or just not completed it all the way? Please help me. Still trying to figure this iphone 3G out.

I have updated my phone to 4.3.3 and I was told there would be more bells and whistles. I haven't found more texting sounds. Have I updated my phone wrong or just not completed it all the way? Please help me. Still trying to figure this iphone 3G out.

You have the iPhone 3GS, not the 3G. The last update to support the iPhone 3G is 4.2.1.
iOS 4.3.3 includes bug fixes etc. There is nothing really special about this update that wasn't introduced in iOS 4.3. iOS 5 is the one to wait for - it will be released in the Autumn/Fall and includes over '200' new features/improvements.
The additional text tines and ringtones were an iPhone 4-only feature.

Pleae Help me, I've tried it all, Color management broken? (Photoshop only)

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