Power Backup (UPS) For HP products

Which power backup system would be best for my Pavilion e9240f? I understand that the sine wave aspect can be an issue for some computers so I want to get the right one for my computers, printers (PS AIO c309a, deskjet 6988 & officejet 8600 pro), etc.

Hi kingben, You can use this ups calculator to calculate the amout of VA(Volt Amps) you need for the ups to hold your system:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/upssizecalc.html
I'm an HP Employee
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APC Power Backup Advice for Small Office

I wasn't sure where to post this but I was hoping someone would not my pointing me to the right forum or offering some advice.
I am trying to put the finishing touches on a conversion to mac and have been looking at buying a Power Backup in part for the power part (no crashes and safe shutdown) but also for surge protection.
I have a MacPro (and a monitor), a Time Machine (for the MBP), 2 - 1TB WD externals, a 500 GB Iomega External (for the MBP), a 3DConnection spaceball device and 2 printers on the "desktop". And then I have a 1 TB Seagate External that I keep plugged in on another table for backing up the MacBookPro now and then.
A. Is there anything else (other than temporary power and surge protection) I should be looking for when purchasing such a piece of hardware?
B. Should I be getting everything on the "desktop" plugged in to a backup device such as this and if so how do I calculate which device to buy?
C. Is it a crime to leave the 1 TB Seagate that is not conveniently located off this backup/surge protection system? I suppose it would be wise to unplug it and only plug it in when I am running a backup?
TIA for any advice. It's been a long haul and I'd love to make sure I am finishing this with some pro level advice/approval.
- Jon

JoeJoe2009 wrote:
Hi Jon,
...C. Is it a crime to leave the 1 TB Seagate that is not conveniently located off this backup/surge protection system? I suppose it would be wise to unplug it and only plug it in when I am running a backup?- external hard drives use very little power, you can keep it plugged in to the power back up or not. Since you're not using it often, the odds of it suffering a surge power problem are rare...
A couple of things to consider in that scenario: first, while it's not necessarily true of all external drives, some, such as LaCie, are noted for the early failure of their power bricks. Since I've been using a LaCie power brick for over ten years without a problem, I suspect that's because it's not connected to a power source except when it's in actually in use. Even when an external drive is not actually spinning, the power source is still live and perpetual cooking is probably not good for its health. I follow that rule with all devices that use power bricks, including Seagate and WD external backup drives and no brick has ever quit.
Second, the Seagate external drives I've used tend to run very hot because of poor or nonexistent ventilation. Indeed, the SMART record of one of them showed a heat failure with a 155 degree F. reading "in the past." Especially if leaving the drive plugged in means the drive is actually on, keeping it unplugged except when it's in use is a good idea.

Backup UPS for iMac24 intel

Recommened Backup Uniterrupted Power Supply for iMac 24 intel. Would prefer APC brand

Go the this site:
http://www.apc.com/tools/ups_selector/index.cfm
You need to answer a few questions, like runtime desired, in order to know what to buy.

UPS Power Backup

Hi,
I am looking for a UPS for my Editing Suite, As a backup for Power cuts.
are there any recomendations or type of ups I should look out for, APC Seem to be popluar here in the UK.
Thanks
Baz

Peru Bob wrote:
Remember that people are more likely to submit a review about a problem with a product than they are to say that it works. (Although I've never seen a bad review of ADK)
While that is true and people simply assembling their computer or installing parts incorrectly is a source for even more bad reviews, newegg is large enough that you'll get the real truth. Then there's people like me who review almost everything I buy there just to help out other people. For example:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
2,717 5 star reviews.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021
5,942 total reviews
They carry 554 cases. That's the best one. See, you can find out that easily lol.
It works for brands too. 7 out of the top 10 sets of RAM are made by Gskill.
http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=147&name=Desktop-Memory&Order=RAT ING
Someone on this forum earlier was saying Gskill was awful. THE WORST! Well, about 10,000 reviews say something different, lol.
Why use outdated, biased opinions about a brand when you can simply see what thousands of other people thought of it. If 1000 people say one thing and you think another, chances are the 1000 are more accurate. That's why I love newegg.

Power backup for dsl modem and Airport Extreme

Does anyone here have backup power for a dsl modem and Airport Extreme that is successful? I have a name brand power backup and when the power goes off both the dsl modem and Airport Extreme remain on; however, the network connection is lost so the fact that they remain on doesn't help. I have been unable to find anything about this problem on the internet generally and consultation with a well-known squad person has not helped. Any thoughts about this will be welcome.

Yes, I agree. But since the backup power keeps the modem powered, why doesn't the dsl connection continue? The squad person I talked with told me that the speed with which the backup power units replace power during an outage is about the same across different backup brands/units (I don't recall the speed but it was in milliseconds) and should be quick enough to retain the dsl connection. Doesn't happen.

Xserve raid shows power state UPS backup

How do I change the power state from UPS backup to on like the rest of the xserve raids we have? None of the xserve raids we have ever used a UPS so I do not know why this one is showing power state UPS Backup under the information tab of the GUI.
This is annoying since it's causing the circle to be yellow instead of green. Any ideas or suggestions?

Never seen this. Does it help if you temporally disconnect the power cable?

I started the OS system from a backup hard drive. Now My Adobe products doesnt work. "the licensing does not work for this product" Error code 150:30. Help me please!!

I started the OS system from a backup hard drive. Now My Adobe products doesnt work. "the licensing does not work for this product" Error code 150:30. Help me please!!

Reinstall the software properly. migration/ backups do not work due to the specific requirements of the activation system.
Mylenium

UPS for Power Mac DualCore 2.3 ???

Hello All,
Can anyone recommend a good UPS for a Power Mac DualCore 2.3. I guess something like APC, etc...
Thanks!

Hi,
I have a Quad and it runs MUCH quieter than my previous original G5 Dual Processor. It uses the liquid cooling. However, both models make alot of noise when the DVD drive runs. Other than that, the Quad is very quiet.
I got an APC Back-UPS RS 1500VA Model# BR1500.
Overkill, but not a problem. I have the Quad, three Apple LCD's external drives, etc. The APC is silent; just when you test it (if you want to) by unplugging the power cord, so it runs on its battery, then a fan kicks in. But when plugged back into the wall, its back to totally silent. It weighs alot but once you set it up on the floor it's not an issue. It stands vertically and has a base. The software has a Mac version, but it doesn't do much. The OSX Tiger Energy Saver control Panel actually has a very good UPS section with alot of controls; the APC is connected to the Mac via a USB cord, and the control panel sees it to let you do the setup.
hope this helps...

Adobe photoshop licensing for this product has expired, backup swatches and brushes.

when i open adobe photoshop CS3 and flash CS3 a box appears saying " licensing for this product has expired. please reinstall or contact help"
i have tried all the soutions and are at to "reinstalling" i dont have the disc or the code.
all i am worried about is getting a copy of my swatches/palates and brushes. Is there any way of saving the swatches and/or brushes?
or if i were to install the CS5 version of photoshop would it automatically convert my settings, (swatches and brushes) to the newer verison?

Somebody posted this very helpful file location chart just yesterday, and already it has been useful.
http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/preference-file-functions-names-locations.html

UPS for ONT to keep internet alive

We have had a few power outages, and I have our entire network on battery backup, but this doesn't do me any good since the ONT in the garage cuts off the internet when the power is out. I'd rather the phoneline go out than the internet honestly.
Anyways, have any of you attached an APC UPS (or similar product) to the ONT so that in the even for a power failure it will maintain all functionality?
I also ran accross this blog which seems interesting, he re-wired the included battery to power the whole unit
click link
From what I see the ONT uses only 40W of power, so I might pickup a 700-1000VA unit for it, or maybe just replace the battery in a slightly older 1500VA unit I have from APC.
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
-Phil

I have not used a UPS to power the ONT, we have had very few power outages for quite a few years now, but I know from threads here and at dslreports.com that others have successfully used a UPS. However, since your ONT is in the garage near your cars, I think you have another option or two:
1) Buy an inexpensive power inverter to convert the 12V DC to AC and use the battery in your car or a separate 12V batter to power the ONT. An example that should provide plenty of power:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/XOVision-XO440-XO-Vision-DC-to-AC-300W-Power-Inverter/17057038
2) If your car or truck has an built-in AC outlet you should be able to use that instead of a separate inverter. My Honda pickup does have one in the center console, if we have a power outage and I really want to use the internet I plan to try that with an extension code, should work.
3) Just buy a 12V battery (probably a deep cycle marine battery would last the longest) and use some jumper cables to connect it to the battery cables inside the battery compartment of the ONT. The downside to this option is that you also probably need a trickle charger to keep the battery charged.
I think it is a really bad idea to do anything that modifies the BBU. You don't own it, Verizon does, and if you break something they will probably want you to pay for it.
Justin
FiOS TV, 25/25 Internet, and Digital Voice user
QIP7232, QIP7100-P2, IMG 1.9.1
Keller, TX 76248

What size UPS for the 5K iMac?

Frequent power cuts here - only a few minutes long - need a UPS to allow me time to power down properly. What's the power requirements of the 5K iMac (looking to buy one before New Year) and need a suitable UPS for safety.

http://images.apple.com/environment/reports/docs/imac_27inch_oct2012.pdf
Almost any UPS will be suitable. I have the APC Back-UPS 750 which comfortably provides 35 to 40 minutes of operation for my 21" iMac plus its external backup disk drive, so it should meet your requirements.
You do not need to install any software. Just connect APC's supplied USB cable to your Mac. OS X already includes all the USB communication required for a UPS.
Consider Cyberpower UPSs also. I do not have one of theirs but they appear to be worthy competitors for APC. Don't be too concerned about "pure sine wave" products for computer equipment - it's unnecessary.

Controlled outlets going on and off on APC Battery Backup UPS 1080

This may be a strange place to report this issue (I have posted it in the APC forums) but I am wondering if anyone here has an idea.... because the behavior seems indicative of my iMac cycle awake and asleep again.
I have a Backup UPS NS 1080 made by APC. There is some strange behavior with the controlled outlets since I have upgraded to Mac OSX Yosemite. I have set the threshold repeatedly (twice with the tutelage of APC support folks on the phone). The second time we plugged a floor lamp into the controlled outlet and it went on and off repeatedly after we set the threshold. I have set the threshold both with the computer (a late 2013 iMac) asleep and turned off. Yet, nothing seems to work. APC thought perhaps the unit was faulty and replaced it, but the problem persists with the new unit... computer asleep and the controlled outlet(s) are going on and off. Only a problem because I have the computer speakers plugged into one of the controlled outlets and I can hear the subwoofer loudly "pop" when it turns on and off while the computer is asleep... a pain.
Any ideas how to resolve this?
Thanks.

You could overload the circuit, but your MP has 865W PSU and needs more 1200VA or above.
Don't overload a circuit, and don't have an A/C or your fridge on the circuit. Not sure what you can do or get an extension cord designed for window air conditioner (15A , flat, grounded, and very heavy duty).
Take a look at APC knowledge base perhaps. Or put the fridge on a line conditioner??? more to keep any noise or to reduce the effect of its power cycling. Old? new? check it with one of those Kill-A-Watt devices and see what is pulls.
Take a look and there are excellent threads on UPS all the time. Yes, you need to upgrade to APC's RS1500VA or you could go with the LCD RS1300VA.
Personally, I have an older XS1500 for peripherals that use to handle my G4, and RS1500 that handles MP and monitor, router. Both are on a new circuit but using two plugs on same outlet, but nothing else on this circuit.
Oh, and audio and such... keeping RFI and noise should be essential, no?

FYI - Just installed an APC Backup-UPS XS 1200 Model BX1200

This is a simple FYI... Read on if you have an interest in Backup-UPS systems for your Mac.
My experience with my neigborhood's power supply (or lack of it) this past week has made me think very hard about a UPS system. I did some research and ended up buying the APC Backup-UPS XS 1200 Model BX1200 to service my PM G5 Dual 2.5GHz system. This unit provides 1200VA and 780 watts.
Not only did I lose power abruptly several times this past week but have noticed at times when power supply AOK that my PM G5 would at times mysteriously shutdown for no good reason - but of course I suspect the power draw has caused my puny EnerGizer ER-HM450 UPS Power Protection device to give up on me. It has a VA rating of 450 and watts of 200 and supposedly a 2-8 mins of battery run time when power fails. This EnerGizer just wasn't doing the job for me.
My PM has 3 ext FW400 and FW800 devices and the PM case has two stock HDs and a 3x 500GB RAID-0 SwiftData 200 setup installed inside. Also have the Ultra 6800 graphics card along with 3x FW800 port PCI card and of course a 4-port FirmTek Card for the Swiftdata devices. I also have the Apple 23" Alu flat panel display along with iSight and powered USB hubs. On top of this I have a Brother B&W laser printer HL-5170DN, Cable modem and AirPort base station. Occasionaly I will also plug in my power supply for my 17" PB and various other things such as Mini DV camera, Cell phone charger and so on.
So as you can imagine the power draw can get quite high when all these devices demand their max power draw - especially the Brother laser printer.
The whole setup draws power from a single wall socket having 20amp circuit breaker. This same 20amp circuit also powers other wall sockets and over lights in my study/office where I house the computer.
So OK - I installed my new APC UPS unit and I have to say I'm very pleased with it. I now feel very much protected. It claims to provide me with some 30-40 mins of battery power after a power failure.
The nice thing about this device is that it's Mac friendly (I did not have to install any of the software that came with the APC device) and no sooner had I hooked up its data port to a USB port on the PM G5 the System Preferences... Energy Saver panel displayed a new UPS tab for setting up the various juicy things for the UPS system. It showed me the exact APC model I had just installed along with its UPS Battery Level percent (it showed 100% full). All very cool stuff.
I will take a look at the supplied APC software to see if some other goodies above what Apple provides is useful or not. This other software is called PowerChute and claims to have sophisticated Power Management - we will see. ;-))
Just thought others might find this report useful.
APC provides a useful web site for you to figure out and size the best APC unit to buy at http://www.apc.com/sizing
BTW - picked up this APC model at my local Staples store for $154 + tax.
Regards... Barry

I've been looking around online for more "user" opinions on the matter of the importance of true sine waves and approximated. I just got off the phone with an APC representative who explained to me the difference, but of course, since he worked for APC, he thought the difference you pay for in a Smart-UPS is worth it. He said the basic BackUPS are made so that the company can stay competitive.
I actually own a Smart-UPS 1500 - WAY overkill for my setup. I'm just running a PowerMac G5 and a 30" display. But when I was shopping for one, a friend convinced me that my equipment will last longer if I go with the Smart-UPS. But the load on that thing is at it's lowerest indicator and it kind of feels like a waste.
However, I know we have bad electricty at our apartment in Los Angeles, and often get brown outs, so maybe it's worth having.
Anyway, my question is, does anyone have any opinions on how much our Apple computers suffer (or do not suffer) from AVR (approximated voltage regulators)? Is it really worth the extra few hundred dollars getting a UPS that will deliver true sine wave?
I appreciate any insight.
Thanks,
Brian,.
Quad-core 2.5 G5 Mac OS X (10.4.5) 30" Apple Cinema Display
Quad-core 2.5 G5 Mac OS X (10.4.3) 30" Apple Cinema Display

Time Machine did not restore Microsoft Office for MAC Product Key

My Tdisk failed and was replaced under AppleCare. I then restored from my Time Machine Backup. I used the (Command R Power keys to initiate this). It completed without errors (eventually).
All Apps that I tried seemed to have been recovered successfully except when I attempted toload my MS Office for MAC Apps, I was asked for my product key.
Unfortunattely this was saved in an email on my system and I cannot retrieve it since I cannot open my MS Outlook.
Does anyone have a solution I might try?
Has anything similar happened to others?
I would appreciate any help you might be able to give.
Barry

There are a few apps that seem to record the identifier (UUID) of the disk they're installed on, as an anti-piracy measure.
I don't use that app, but as Thomas says, if you know (or can figure out) where & how the emails are stored, you may be able to use the TM browser to locate the backup copy of the email, and either use QuickLook on it, or restore it to an alternate location, such as your Desktop, and examine it there.
If you haven't done a new backup yet, Time Machine won't have "associated" the new disk with the old backups, so the backups of the old disk won't appear normally. If so, you'll need the procedure in #E3 of Time Machine - Troubleshooting to see them.

Is macware a trusted software company for apple products?

Is MacWare a trusted company for Apple Products, or do I even need a clean up software for my MacBook Pro with Mavericks?

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make two or more backups of all your files, keeping at least one off site at all times in case of disaster. One backup is not enough to be safe. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. Cleaning caches is not an end in itself.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your disk/SSD. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Power Backup (UPS) For HP products

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